CN110623356B - Golden ratio type men's trousers sample plate, men's trousers and men's trousers plate making method - Google Patents
Golden ratio type men's trousers sample plate, men's trousers and men's trousers plate making method Download PDFInfo
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- 230000011218 segmentation Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 claims 3
- 230000008034 disappearance Effects 0.000 claims 2
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 claims 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 abstract description 25
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- 235000008331 Pinus X rigitaeda Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011613 Pinus brutia Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241000018646 Pinus brutia Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000024891 symptom Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000010930 yellow gold Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001097 yellow gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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Abstract
The invention provides a golden ratio type men's trousers template, men's trousers and a men's trousers plate making method, which introduces the golden ratio division into the men's trousers structure design, eliminates coefficients in an experience matching formula, replaces 10 equal divisions of the long sections of the front and back hip golden division with numerical conversion to set provinces, provinces and modeling designs, avoids complex calculation of distributing each province along with the increase and decrease of the hip circumference, thereby avoiding the misworry of the design of the costume according to the connection of different specifications and parts, attaching the design of the costume to how the specifications of audience are changed, ensuring that each trousers piece is always scientific and orderly, not to be out of shape, avoiding repeated modification, repeatedly making the trousers, improving productivity and reducing cost.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design, in particular to a golden ratio type men's trousers template, men's trousers and a men's trousers plate making method, which are mainly applicable to adult men's trousers.
Background
Because of the high randomness, the clothing structural design people imagine that the technology content is not high, and the subjects of the clothing structural design are multiple, and the clothing structural design can also create the difference in milli-centimeter like creation, so that the designer cannot confirm how to calculate the standard from various to various, and the clothing structural design has no scientific definition depending on the natural law so far, thereby breeding a series of subjects.
For the worldwide difficult problem, the science and technology personnel '35274' has long been used for applying higher-order mathematical theory to try various inventions and creations under the assistance of a computer, and the tailoring property of the measuring and tailoring clothes is also contained, even if the tailoring is authorized, the characteristic jump does not exist in the prior art, and the observer only looks at the same time.
The clothing structural design is composed of a net body specification and a loose quantity. The net body specification is a national promulgated clothes size mark, and the structural design after the addition and release of the net body specification is free from the standard which can be followed by the trust of operators. Thus, no matter how many structural designers of the same style create finished ready-made clothes, the marking specifications are the same, but the structural sizes of the internal parts are different, the ratio of molecules to different denominators in an empirical formula is radically generated, the sizes of the parts arranged under the matching of the supplementary coefficients are against a scientific formation system, the number relation of the parts is out of constraint at random, the parts are in unequal ratio, and the connection of the parts of the model is inaccurate along with the different specifications. In this regard, the existence of anisometric is also well understood in the prior art by chinese patent grant publication No. CN 1132537C.
The method is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of firstly, the size concept is adopted, the other industries have the recognized national or industry specification standard, only the clothing exception is made, the country only issues the clean body specification, the added and relaxed amount is that a beginner, a professional edition teacher and a teaching teacher are empirically sized according to the style, and the random is larger, in the prior art, the finished clothing is longer or shorter, even if the clothing is repeatedly modified and repeatedly manufactured, only the unbalanced phenomenon of the fat and thin is corrected, and the shape is changed more and more poorly.
The investigation of authoritative specialists in China indicates that: university students learn the hard part sizing of the formula matched by experience, such as the proportional method, the basic method, the prototype, and the like, destroy the plate making technology of the shape and the structure, and in practice, the students are difficult to trust due to the trouble of repeated modification, and finally can adhere to less than 1% of the plate. (original year 2003 clothing times), so the current problem is still worry today, bringing a lot of inconvenience to study and production.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a golden ratio male trousers template, which can be directly called by a practitioner, is conveniently and quickly scaled to a reference frame diagram meeting the hip circumference specification by using clothing CAD software, and is used for completing the design of a desired detail structure model according to the style without repeated modification, so that the efficiency of the clothing structure design is greatly improved.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a golden ratio type male trousers template uses the long distance of the golden section of the half-hip circumference as the crotch depth of the front piece template and the rear piece template, and the long section of the golden section of the crotch depth is the front hip height and the rear hip height from the waist opening downwards;
the front piece template comprises a hip front piece, a middle crotch front piece and a leg front piece which sequentially extend downwards from a waist opening, the hip front piece is provided with a tunnel door front piece towards the rear piece template, the width of the hip front piece is one-fourth of the hip circumference minus 1 first equal part, and the first equal part is 1/20 of the golden section long section of the half-hip circumference;
the back panel template comprises a back hip panel, a back crotch panel and a back leg panel which extend downwards from the waist opening in sequence, wherein the back hip panel is provided with a back tunnel door panel towards the front panel template, and the back hip panel has a width of one quarter of the hip circumference plus 1 first bisection.
Further, the width of the front piece of the door of the said hole is 3 second bisections, the arc line that the front piece of the door of the said hole intersects vertically and horizontally connects passes the end point of 2 second bisections of its perpendicular angle bisector;
the width of the back piece of the top door is the short section of the golden section of the back piece of the hip circumference plus 1 third bisection, and the arc line which is connected with the back piece of the top door in a transverse and vertical crossing way passes through the endpoints of 2 third bisections of the perpendicular angle bisection line; the width of the back piece of the back door of the glass is 1 first equal part.
Further, a crotch line is provided between the crotch front piece and the leg front piece, a distance of the crotch deep golden section which moves downward is set as a calf line, and a drawing foot line is provided for a distance of the calf line which moves downward by the crotch deep.
Further, the width of the front middle crotch piece is designed to be the width of the front hip piece minus 4 second halves on the transverse crotch line, and the width of the rear middle crotch piece is designed to be the width of the rear hip piece;
the distance between the left and right sides of the width of the front piece of the middle crotch, which is respectively tightened by 1 second equally divided, is designed to be the width of the front foot opening, and the distance between the left and right sides of the width of the rear piece of the middle crotch, which is respectively tightened by 1 third equally divided, is designed to be the width of the rear foot opening.
Further, the golden section point of the width of the hip front piece is provided with a front central line, wherein 1/10 of the length of the golden section of the width of the hip front piece is the second half, and a plurality of front piece provinces are arranged in the width direction of the hip front piece;
the front piece province position includes the front side seam waist province, the front side waist province, the front middle waist province and the front middle seam waist province that set gradually from outside to inside along the hip circumference front piece, the width of front side seam waist province is 1/2 second halving, and upwarp 1/4 second halving, the width of front side waist province is 1 second halving, the width of front middle waist province is 2/3 second halving, the width of front middle seam waist province is 1/3 second halving, the upwarp point that front side waist province and front middle waist province all is located the tilt straight line that the upwarp point that front side seam waist province was connected with front middle seam waist province.
Further, the golden section point of the width of the back hip plate translates to the short section of the back hip plate to set a back central line by 1.5 third equally divided into 1/10 of the long section of the golden section of the width of the back hip plate, and a plurality of back hip provinces are arranged in the width direction of the back hip plate;
the back piece is saved the position and is saved including the back side waist that sets gradually from outside to inside along the hip back piece, back middling and back middling waist are saved, the width of back middling waist is 1 first halving, and upwarp 1.5 first halving, the width of back middling waist is 1 and 1/3 third halving, the width of back side waist is 1 and 1/3 third halving, the upwarp point that back side waist was saved and back middling waist is saved all is located back upwarp high and back side seam upwarp the slope straight line that the point is connected.
Further, the length and width of the back pocket of the men's trousers are set on the line of which the back mid-hip line is tilted up by 1 third bisection.
A male trousers comprises a front trousers piece and a rear trousers piece, wherein the front trousers piece and the rear trousers piece are both made of the golden ratio male trousers sample plate.
A method for making a men's trousers, comprising the steps of:
1) Drawing a waist opening basic line, and marking the waist opening basic line as a line segment 1;
2) On the basis of the line segment 1, a long distance of the half-hip golden section is moved downwards to be used as a short section to set a transverse crotch line and is marked as a line segment 2, the long distance of the half-hip golden section is the length vertical crotch depth of the vertical crotch line, the golden section is vertical crotch depth, and the long section is the front hip height and the rear hip height with the waist opening downwards;
3) Taking the right side of the rectangular area between the line segment 1 and the line segment 2 as a hip circumference front piece, taking the left side of the rectangular area between the line segment 1 and the line segment 2 as a hip circumference back piece, designing the width of the hip circumference front piece as a quarter of the hip circumference minus 1 first aliquot, designing the width of the hip circumference back piece as a quarter of the hip circumference plus 1 first aliquot, and dividing the first aliquot into 1/20 of the golden section long section of half the hip circumference;
4) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of downward moving twice the vertical crotch depth is set as a middle crotch line and is marked as a line segment 3; on the basis of the line segment 3, the distance of the deep golden segmentation long segment of the vertical crotch is set as calf line and is marked as the line segment 4; on the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the standing crotch depth is set as a drawing foot line, and is marked as a line segment 5, and 1.5 second equal divisions of the line segment 5 are subtracted upwards to form a male trousers length;
5) On the basis of the front hip circumference piece and the rear hip circumference piece, a front door piece and a rear door piece are respectively arranged towards the front piece template and the rear piece template;
6) Taking the right side of a rectangular area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a crotch front piece, taking the left side of the rectangular area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a crotch rear piece, designing the width of the crotch front piece as the hip circumference front piece width minus 4 second equal parts on a transverse crotch line, and designing the width of the crotch rear piece as the hip circumference rear piece width;
7) The distance for 1 second division of the width of the front piece of the middle crotch is designed as the front foot opening width, and the distance for 1 third division of the width of the rear piece of the middle crotch is designed as the rear foot opening width.
The length and width of the back pocket of the men's trousers are set on the line of the back middle hip circumference which is tilted up by 1 third halving.
According to the technical scheme, the golden ratio division is firstly and fully introduced into the male trousers structural design, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, 10 equal parts of the long sections of the front and rear hip golden division replace numerical conversion to set the position saving, the quantity saving and the modeling design, the situation that the quantity saving is distributed every time along with the increase and decrease of the hip circumference in a complex calculation mode is avoided, therefore, the teaching and the learning of the clothing design are not inaccurate and worry along with the different specifications and the connection of the parts, no matter how the audience specifications change depending on the design, each trousers piece is always scientific and orderly, does not lose shape, repeated modification is not needed, the sample trousers are repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a frame of a men's pants according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is an expanded plan view of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic view of the front side slit waist provinces, front middle slit waist provinces, rear middle waist provinces, rear side slit waist provinces, and rear side slit waist upwarps in FIGS. 2 and 5;
FIG. 4 is a block diagram of the area surplus of the ASTD rectangle of FIG. 2;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a yellow-gold proportion type male trousers sample plate according to the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a full body effect diagram of men's trousers according to the present invention;
fig. 7 is a diagram of a model design structure of the present embodiment.
Detailed Description
A preferred embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the golden ratio men's pant template includes a front panel template 100 including a hip front panel 110, a crotch front panel 120, and a leg front panel 130 extending downward from a waist opening in sequence, the hip front panel being provided with a tunnel gate front panel 140 toward the rear panel template, and a rear panel template 200 including a hip rear panel 210, a crotch rear panel 220, and a leg rear panel 230 extending downward from the waist opening in sequence, the hip rear panel being provided with a tunnel gate rear panel 240 toward the front panel template.
The meaning of the lower hip front piece, the mid-crotch front piece, the hip back piece, the mid-crotch back piece, and the first, second and third halves need to be defined:
the right side of the rectangular area formed by the transverse crotch line BC and the waist-opening basic line AD is taken as the front hip-circumference sheet 110, and the left side of the rectangular area formed by the transverse crotch line BC and the waist-opening basic line AD is taken as the rear hip-circumference sheet 210.
The rectangular area formed by taking the downward movement of the transverse crotch line BK of the front pant is the intermediate crotch front panel 120, and the area formed by taking the downward movement of the transverse crotch line CL of the rear pant is the intermediate crotch rear panel 220.
The golden section is defined as dividing the whole into two parts, the ratio of the larger part to the whole being equal to the ratio of the smaller part to the larger part, which is about 0.618. This ratio is recognized as the most aesthetically pleasing ratio and is therefore referred to as the golden section.
The first bisection is 1/20 of the length of the golden section of the half-hip circumference, the second bisection is 1/10 of the length of the golden section of the hip circumference front piece width, and the third bisection is 1/10 of the length of the golden section of the hip circumference rear piece width. The first, second and third halves are unequal, wherein the third half is about 1 mm greater than the first half.
The long distance of the golden section of the half-hip circumference is used as the short length to set the crotch depth AB of the front and rear panel templates 100 and 200, and the long length of the golden section of the crotch depth is the front and rear hip heights AE and DJ from the waist down.
The width of the front piece 140 of the door of the glass is 3 second halves, and the arc line GK of the intersecting connection of the horizontal and vertical of the door of the glass passes through the end points of 2 second halves of the perpendicular angle bisector of the arc line GK.
The width of the back plate 240 of the door is the short section of the golden section of the back plate of the hip circumference plus 1 third bisection, and the arc HL of the intersecting connection of the horizontal and vertical sides of the door passes through the endpoints of 2 third bisections of the perpendicular bisector.
The width EG of the front hip panel 110 is one-fourth of the hip circumference minus 1 first aliquot, and the golden division point of the width of the front hip panel is set to the front midline, and a plurality of front panel provinces are set at the waist opening in the width direction of the front hip panel.
The width HJ of the back hip piece 210 is one quarter of the hip circumference plus 1 first aliquot, and the golden section point of the width of the back hip piece is shifted toward the short section thereof by 1.5 third aliquots to set the back midline, and a plurality of back piece provinces are provided at the waist opening in the width direction of the back hip piece.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the front piece waist position includes a front side waist sewing section 101, a front side waist section 102, a front middle waist section 103 and a front middle waist sewing section 104 which are sequentially arranged from outside to inside along the hip circumference front piece, the width of the front side waist sewing section 101 is 1/2 second halves, and warps up 1/4 second halves, the width of the front side waist section 102 is 1 second halves, the width of the front middle waist section 103 is 2/3 second halves, the width of the front middle waist sewing section 104 is 1/3 second halves, and the upwarp points of the front side waist sewing section and the front middle waist section are both positioned on an inclined straight line connecting the upwarp point of the front side waist sewing section and the front middle waist sewing section.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the back section positions include a back waist section 107, a back middle waist section 106 and a back middle waist section 105, which are sequentially arranged from outside to inside along the back section of the hip, wherein the width of the back middle waist section 105 is 1 first equal part and is upturned by 1.5 first equal parts, the width of the back middle waist section 106 is 1 and 1/3 third equal parts, the width of the back waist section 107 is 1 and 1/3 third equal parts, the upturned points of the back waist section and the back middle waist section are all positioned on an inclined straight line connecting the back upturned height and the back side seam upturned point, and the back side seam waist section 108 disappears to form the back upturned height 105, but the side waist opening is still upturned by 1/4 third equal parts.
A crotch line MN is provided between the crotch front panel 120 and the leg and foot front panel 130, a distance of the crotch line NO for moving the crotch deep golden section downward is set as a calf line OP, and a distance of the calf line for moving the crotch downward is set as a drawing foot line ST. The crotch line to waist opening height is twice the vertical crotch depth, the width of the crotch front panel 120 is the hip circumference front panel width minus 4 second halves on the transverse crotch line BK, and the width of the crotch back panel 220 is the hip circumference back panel width.
The golden rectangle is applied to the structural design of the men's trousers, wherein half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity of the reference diagram is the content in the width, the hip circumference is referred to herein, and the other half is referred to as the length, namely the length of the men's trousers to be determined, namely the half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity divided by the sum of the short sections of the front and rear long rectangles generates X quantity, so that the horizontal line ST translates upwards, and the drawing trousers line AQ is reduced by 1.5 second halves, namely the length of the men's trousers, and reference is made to FIG. 2.
The present invention also provides a men's pants, as shown in fig. 1, 2 and 6, comprising front and rear pants panels 1000 and 2000, both of which are made using the above-described golden ratio men's pant panels.
The invention also provides a men's trousers making method of the golden ratio men's trousers sample plate, which comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a waist opening basic line AD, and marking as a line segment 1;
2) On the basis of line segment 1, the long distance of the half-hip [ (hip 95cm + loose 1 cm)/(2) ] golden section is moved downwards to be used as a short section to set a transverse crotch line BC, and is marked as line segment 2, the long distance of the half-hip golden section is used to set the length crotch depth of the crotch line AB, the golden section is used to set the crotch depth, and the long section is the front hip height AE and the rear hip height DJ with the waist opening downwards;
3) The width of the front piece of the hip is designed to be one-quarter of the hip minus 1 first aliquot, and the width of the back piece of the hip is designed to be one-quarter of the hip plus 1 first aliquot, which is 1/20 of the golden section length of the half-hip;
4) Setting a front midline by taking a golden section point of the width of the front hip piece, wherein 1/10 of the length of the golden section of the width of the front hip piece is a second half, and a plurality of front piece provinces are arranged at the waist opening in the width direction of the front hip piece;
5) Taking a golden section point of the width of the back part of the hip circumference, translating 1.5 third equally dividing into 1/10 of the long section of the golden section of the width of the back part of the hip circumference to the short section of the back part of the hip circumference, and arranging a plurality of back part provinces at the waist opening in the width direction of the back part of the hip circumference;
6) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of downward moving twice the vertical crotch depth is set as a middle crotch line MN and is marked as a line segment 3; on the basis of the line segment 3, the distance of the deep golden segmentation long segment of the vertical crotch is set as calf line OP and is marked as line segment 4; on the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the standing crotch depth is set as a drawing foot line ST, and is marked as a line segment 5, and 1.5 second equal divisions of the line segment 5 are subtracted upwards to form a male trousers length;
7) On the basis of the front hip circumference piece and the rear hip circumference piece, a front door piece and a rear door piece are respectively arranged towards the front piece template and the rear piece template;
8) Taking the right side of a rectangular area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a middle crotch front piece, taking the left side of the area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a middle crotch rear piece, designing the width of the middle crotch front piece as the width of the hip circumference front piece minus 4 second halves on a transverse crotch line BK, and designing the width of the middle crotch rear piece as the width of the hip circumference rear piece;
9) The distance for 1 second division of the width of the front piece of the middle crotch is designed as the front foot opening width, and the distance for 1 third division of the width of the rear piece of the middle crotch is designed as the rear foot opening width.
10 The length and width of the back pocket of the men's trousers are set on the line of the back middle hip line tilted by 1 third halving.
The pant-making method of the male pant template is ended, and then the waist and the loss-saving area surplus blocks related to the waist can be taken out by adopting the clothing CAD software, including a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h, i, j, k.
The golden rectangle ASTD is applied to the design of the male trousers sample plate structure, wherein half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity of the reference diagram is the content in the width, the hip circumference is referred to herein, and the other half is referred to as the length, namely the male trousers length to be determined, namely the half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity divided by the sum of the short sections of the front and rear long strip rectangles generates X quantity, so that the horizontal line ST translates upwards, and the drawing trousers length line AQ is reduced by 1.5 second halves, namely the male trousers length, and reference is made to FIG. 2.
Above-mentioned men's clothing size national standard "A", its net hip circumference 95cm + pine 1cm, net waistline 78 cm, trousers length 105.4 cm, standing crotch deep 29.7 cm, foot mouth 39.3cm.
Then, the model is easily and freely designed depending on the reference diagram, and an ideal new model is changed, referring to fig. 7.
1. Waistline, crotch depth and trousers length. The loose crotch is less in hip wrapping performance, the waist opening is reduced by 2 equal parts (2.8 cm) when the crotch is not deep, the waist opening is not naturally increased at the thinnest part, understanding is realized, the measured waist opening is 2cm, and the example effect pattern trousers are formed.
2. Bending down the head. The waist width is 2.5/20 equal parts (3.7 cm) of the long section of the half-hip golden section. The front body province is digested through the front middle seam and the inclined bag seam, the left and right of the back body respectively remain one province, and the other province is split at the back middle seam so as to increase the inclined potential.
3. A trousers pocket. Two sides are inserted with bags obliquely.
4. And (5) sporadic raw auxiliary materials. Seven trousers climbs, bag strips and the like are arranged according to the conventional method.
The finished specifications are that the hip-wrapped non-pleat male trousers have 96cm hip circumference, 80cm waistline, 102.4cm trousers length, 26.7cm standing crotch depth, 45.2cm middle grade and 39.3cm foot mouth.
The hip circumference value of the invention realizes the overall isocratic of the structural design, does not memorize the basic data size, and equally designs the new modeling key points by using the hip circumference value. The waist and hip difference following the national standard of the male clothing size is troublesome because the distribution data of the provinces and the provinces is changed totally due to different specifications, and the waist provinces use the same division to distribute the provinces at each place, thereby eliminating the memory data size. The graphic integration of the present invention gives a scientific conclusion on how much of the men's trousers are known to have a hip circumference matching.
In order to meet the natural law, namely the golden ratio, and solve the specific technical problems of clothing industry in human production and life, the application patent of the golden ratio is taught to process integrity, scientificity is shown, step contents are greatly increased, related drawings are on A4 paper, the parts of the parts need to be partially enlarged, in practice, the clothing structural design drawing is 1 to 1, and manual or clothing CAD software drawing is adopted, so that the theory of the partially enlarged drawing is avoided. The figure 5 (which is described by marking the long section, the short section and the like of golden section instead of the size of the part, and writing) is directly adjusted to the figure in clinic, the clothing CAD software is conveniently and quickly used to zoom into the reference frame diagram meeting the hip circumference specification, and then the design of the desired detail structure modeling is completed according to the style.
People recognize that the European and American persons are high and large in golden ratio, the golden ratio is not limited by factors such as age, ethnicity and region, small and exquisite small and small persons and large persons and medium persons conform to the golden ratio, the people taking care of the shapes and the shapes of the eyes include the majority of children approaching the golden ratio, and the people are provided with multi-grade size codes corresponding. The characteristic of the golden proportion of the human body is given to the nature, and the nature is naturally restricted by a plurality of factors in the life and growth process, so that sporadic specialization appears, and the nature is also designed in a changing way on the basis of the model without symptoms. Industrial mass production is a model which is required to be standard in points, lines and surfaces, and most of the defects of the body are covered by detailed design and setting off of clothing accessories, so that the dressing of most people is satisfied.
The technical scheme of the invention is not only used for normal bodies, but also is applicable to special bodies such as Y type, B type, C type, D type and the like, namely the percentage change data between the pushing-out of the reference map such as hip circumference, waistline, trouser length and the like, and has infinite scientific application potential. The clothing is cut to measure, fat people are contraindicated to make very fat, thin people are made very thin, so that the constant amount seems to be possible from the technical point of view, and natural (artistic) aesthetic factors are lacked.
The above-described embodiments are merely illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and various modifications and improvements made by those skilled in the art to the technical solution of the present invention should fall within the scope of protection defined by the claims of the present invention without departing from the spirit of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. A golden ratio men's trousers template comprising a front panel template (100) and a back panel template (200), characterized in that:
setting the long distance of the golden section of the half-hip circumference as the short length to be the vertical crotch depth (AB) of the front and rear panel templates, the long length of the golden section of the vertical crotch depth being the front hip height (AE) and the rear hip height (DJ) downward from the waist opening;
the front panel template (100) comprises a hip front panel (110), a crotch front panel (120) and a leg front panel (130) which extend downwards from the waist opening in sequence, wherein the hip front panel is provided with a tunnel front panel (140) towards the rear panel template, the width (EG) of the hip front panel is one-fourth of the hip circumference minus 1 first bisection, and the first bisection is 1/20 of the golden section length of the half-hip circumference;
the back template (200) comprises a back hip plate (210), a back crotch plate (220) and a back leg plate (230) which extend downwards from the waist opening in sequence, wherein the back hip plate is provided with a back tunnel plate (240) towards the front template, and the width of the back hip plate is one quarter of the hip circumference plus 1 first equal part;
a middle crotch line (MN) is arranged between the middle crotch front piece (120) and the leg foot front piece (130), a calf line (OP) is arranged at a distance of a long section of deep golden segmentation of the vertical crotch, and a drawing foot mouth line (ST) is arranged at a distance of the deep golden segmentation of the vertical crotch; the height from the middle crotch line (MN) to the waist opening is twice the vertical crotch depth, the width of the middle crotch front piece (120) is the hip circumference front piece width, 4 second halves are subtracted from the transverse crotch line (BC), and the width of the middle crotch rear piece is the hip circumference rear piece width;
the golden section point of the width of the hip front piece is provided with a front central line, wherein 1/10 of the length of the golden section of the width of the hip front piece is a second half, and a plurality of front piece provinces are arranged at the waist opening along the width direction of the hip front piece;
the front piece province position comprises a front side waist sewing province, a front side waist province, a front middle waist province and a front middle waist sewing province which are sequentially arranged along the hip circumference front piece from outside to inside, wherein the width of the front side waist sewing province is 1/2 second halving and is upturned 1/4 second halving, the width of the front side waist sewing province is 1 second halving, the width of the front middle waist sewing province is 2/3 second halving, the width of the front middle waist sewing province is 1/3 second halving, and upturned points of the front side waist sewing province and the front middle waist sewing province are both positioned on an inclined straight line connecting the upturned point of the front side waist sewing province and the front middle waist sewing province;
the golden section point of the width of the back plate of the hip circumference translates to the short section of the back plate of the hip circumference by 1.5 third equally dividing into 1/10 of the long section of the golden section of the width of the back plate of the hip circumference, and a plurality of back plate provinces are arranged at the waist opening along the width direction of the back plate of the hip circumference;
the back piece province position comprises a back side waist province, a back middle waist province and a back middle seam waist province which are sequentially arranged along the hip circumference back piece from outside to inside, the width of the back middle seam waist province is 1 first bisection and is tilted upwards by 1.5 first bisections, the width of the back middle waist province is 1 and 1/3 third bisections, the width of the back side waist province is 1 and 1/3 third bisections, and the tilted upwards points of the back side waist province and the back middle waist province are positioned on a tilted straight line connecting the tilted back height and the back side seam tilted point;
taking the outer end point (J) of the rear hip piece as an origin, rotating the rectangle formed by the rear hip line (JH) and the waist opening basic line (AD) anticlockwise until the inner end point (H) of the rear hip piece is tilted by 1 third halving, and forming a rear tilted height by disappearance of the rear waist-stitching, wherein the side waist opening is still tilted by 1/4 third halving;
the length and the width of a male trousers rear pocket are arranged on the line of which the back middle hip circumference is tilted up by 1 third halving;
the width of the front piece of the door of the said gallery is 3 second bisections, the arc line (GK) that the front piece of the door of the said gallery intersects and connects vertically and crosses the end point of 2 second bisections of its perpendicular angle bisector; the width of the back plate of the top door is the short section of the golden section of the back plate of the hip circumference plus 1 third bisection, and the arc line (HL) which is connected with the back plate of the top door in a transverse and vertical crossing way passes through the endpoints of 2 third bisections of the perpendicular angle bisector.
2. A pair of men's trousers comprising a front trousers piece and a back trousers piece, wherein the front trousers piece and the back trousers piece are made of the golden ratio men's trousers template according to claim 1.
3. A method for making a men's trousers using the golden ratio type men's trousers template according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
1) Drawing a waist-mouth basic line (AD), and marking as a line segment 1;
2) On the basis of the line segment 1, a transverse crotch line (BC) is arranged as a short section by moving down the long section distance of the half-hip golden section, and is marked as a line segment 2, the long section distance of the half-hip golden section is a vertical crotch line (AB), the vertical crotch line (AB) is used as a vertical crotch depth, the golden section is a front hip height (AE) and a rear hip height (DJ) with the waist opening downward;
3) Taking the right side of the rectangular area between the line segment 1 and the line segment 2 as a hip circumference front piece, taking the left side of the rectangular area between the line segment 1 and the line segment 2 as a hip circumference back piece, designing the width of the hip circumference front piece as a quarter of the hip circumference minus 1 first aliquot, designing the width of the hip circumference back piece as a quarter of the hip circumference plus 1 first aliquot, and dividing the first aliquot into 1/20 of the golden section long section of half the hip circumference;
4) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of downward moving twice the vertical crotch depth is set as a middle crotch line (MN), and is marked as a line segment 3; on the basis of the line segment 3, the distance of the deep golden segmentation long segment of the vertical crotch is set as calf line (OP), and is marked as line segment 4; on the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the standing crotch depth is set as a drawing foot line (ST), and is marked as a line segment 5, and 1.5 second equal divisions of the line segment 5 are subtracted upwards to form a male trousers length;
5) On the basis of the front hip circumference piece and the rear hip circumference piece, a front door piece and a rear door piece are respectively arranged towards the front piece template and the rear piece template;
6) Taking the right side of a rectangular area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a middle crotch front piece, taking the left side of the area between the line segment 2 and the line segment 3 as a middle crotch rear piece, designing the width of the middle crotch front piece as the width of the hip circumference front piece, subtracting 4 second halves on a transverse crotch line (BC), and designing the width of the middle crotch rear piece as the width of the hip circumference rear piece;
7) The distance for 1 second division of the width of the front piece of the middle crotch is designed as the front foot opening width, and the distance for 1 third division of the width of the rear piece of the middle crotch is designed as the rear foot opening width.
4. A men's trousers making method according to claim 3, wherein the back section province includes a back side waist province, a back middle waist province and a back middle slit waist province which are sequentially arranged along the back section of the hip from outside to inside, the width of the back middle slit waist province is 1 first equal division and 1.5 first equal divisions are upturned, the width of the back middle waist province is 1 and 1/3 third equal divisions, the width of the back side waist province is 1 and 1/3 third equal divisions, and upturned points of the back side waist province and the back middle waist province are located on an inclined straight line connecting the upturned height and the back side slit upturned point;
taking the outer end point (J) of the rear hip piece as an origin, rotating the rectangle formed by the rear hip line (JH) and the waist opening basic line (AD) anticlockwise until the inner end point (H) of the rear hip piece is tilted by 1 third halving, and forming a rear tilted height by disappearance of the rear waist-stitching, wherein the side waist opening is still tilted by 1/4 third halving;
the back middle buttock line is tilted up to 1 third halving line and is provided with a male trousers back pocket.
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| SU1531963A1 (en) * | 1987-04-22 | 1989-12-30 | Всесоюзный заочный институт текстильной и легкой промышленности | Method of making garments |
| KR20020027118A (en) * | 2000-10-06 | 2002-04-13 | 정옥임 | Basic pattern drafting method of Korean men's traditional trousers |
| CN101199371A (en) * | 2007-12-13 | 2008-06-18 | 东华大学 | Cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
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| CN101485499A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit |
| CN207897968U (en) * | 2017-09-29 | 2018-09-25 | 厦门理工学院 | Multipurpose ruler is cut out in a kind of dress designing |
| CN211747247U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-10-27 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type male trousers sample plate and male trousers |
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2019
- 2019-11-06 CN CN201921903599.4U patent/CN211747247U/en active Active
- 2019-11-06 CN CN201911077350.7A patent/CN110623356B/en active Active
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SU1531963A1 (en) * | 1987-04-22 | 1989-12-30 | Всесоюзный заочный институт текстильной и легкой промышленности | Method of making garments |
| KR20020027118A (en) * | 2000-10-06 | 2002-04-13 | 정옥임 | Basic pattern drafting method of Korean men's traditional trousers |
| CN101199371A (en) * | 2007-12-13 | 2008-06-18 | 东华大学 | Cartographic method of standard women box-type trousers antetype |
| CN101352269A (en) * | 2008-03-14 | 2009-01-28 | 东华大学 | Trouser suit pattern-making method for fixing numbers of trousers midlines and locating the same as well as uses |
| CN101485499A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit |
| CN207897968U (en) * | 2017-09-29 | 2018-09-25 | 厦门理工学院 | Multipurpose ruler is cut out in a kind of dress designing |
| CN211747247U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-10-27 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion type male trousers sample plate and male trousers |
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| CN211747247U (en) | 2020-10-27 |
| CN110623356A (en) | 2019-12-31 |
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