CN110693118B - Golden ratio three-open men's clothing template, three-open men's clothing and plate making method - Google Patents
Golden ratio three-open men's clothing template, three-open men's clothing and plate making method Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention provides a golden ratio three-open men's clothing template, a three-open men's clothing and a plate making method, which are characterized in that golden ratio division is introduced into three-open men's clothing structural design, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, the drawing waistline 34 equal division used for the men is combined to replace numerical conversion to set a position saving, an amount saving and a modeling design, the situation that each position saving is calculated and distributed along with the increase and decrease of the chest circumference is avoided, so that the teaching and the learning of clothing design are not changed along with different specifications and part connection, the design is attached to the fact that the audience specifications are changed, each clothing piece is always scientific and orderly, no sample is lost, repeated modification is not needed, sample clothing is repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design, in particular to a golden ratio three-open-body men's clothing template, three-open-body men's clothing and a plate making method, which are mainly applicable to adult three-open-body men's clothing.
Background
Because of the high randomness, the clothing structural design people imagine that the technology content is not high, and the subjects of the clothing structural design are multiple, and the clothing structural design can also create the difference in milli-centimeter like creation, so that the designer cannot confirm how to calculate the standard from various to various, and the clothing structural design has no scientific definition depending on the natural law so far, thereby breeding a series of subjects.
For the worldwide difficult problem, the science and technology personnel '35274' has long been used for applying higher-order mathematical theory to try various inventions and creations under the assistance of a computer, and the tailoring property of the measuring and tailoring clothes is also contained, even if the tailoring is authorized, the characteristic jump does not exist in the prior art, and the observer only looks at the same time.
The clothing structural design is composed of a net body specification and a loose quantity. The net body specification is a national promulgated clothes size mark, and the structural design after the addition and release of the net body specification is free from the standard which can be followed by the trust of operators. Thus, no matter how many structural designers of the same style create finished ready-made clothes, the marking specifications are the same, but the structural sizes of the internal parts are different, the ratio of molecules to different denominators in an empirical formula is radically generated, the sizes of the parts arranged under the matching of the supplementary coefficients are against a scientific formation system, the number relation of the parts is out of constraint at random, the parts are in unequal ratio, and the connection of the parts of the model is inaccurate along with the different specifications. In this regard, the existence of anisometric is also well understood in the prior art by chinese patent grant publication No. CN 1132537C.
The method is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of firstly, the size concept is adopted, the other industries have the recognized national or industry specification standard, only the clothing exception is made, the country only issues the clean body specification, the added and relaxed amount is that a beginner, a professional edition teacher and a teaching teacher are empirically sized according to the style, and the random is larger, in the prior art, the finished clothing is longer or shorter, even if the clothing is repeatedly modified and repeatedly manufactured, only the unbalanced phenomenon of the fat and thin is corrected, and the shape is changed more and more poorly.
The investigation of authoritative specialists in China indicates that: university students learn the hard part sizing of the formula matched by experience, such as the proportional method, the basic method, the prototype, and the like, destroy the plate making technology of the shape and the structure, and in practice, the students are difficult to trust due to the trouble of repeated modification, and finally can adhere to less than 1% of the plate. (original year 2003 clothing times), so the current problem is still worry today, bringing a lot of inconvenience to study and production.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a golden ratio three-open men's clothing template, which can be directly called by practitioners, and conveniently and quickly scaled to a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification by using clothing CAD software, and then the design of the wanted detailed structure modeling is completed according to the style, without repeated modification, and the efficiency of the clothing structure design is greatly improved.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a three-open men's wear pattern of golden ratio includes front pattern, back pattern and sleeve pattern:
the width of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width, and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width;
the length of the back waist section of the back piece template is twice as long as the width of the back, and the long section of the back waist section golden section is positioned on the upper back;
the back upper flat line of the back template is equal to the back drawing chest circumference in width, the back width is divided into back shoulder widths by 1 equal part, the width of the back transverse open collar on the back upper flat line is 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar of the back template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, the small shoulder width on the back upper flat line is 9 equal parts, and the equal parts are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder slope of the rear piece template is 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 5 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle releases 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder solution position;
the front upper flat line of the front template is lower than the rear upper flat line by the longitudinal height of the rear direct-opening collar, and the width of the front upper flat line is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width of the front transverse open collar on the front upper flat line is equal to 6, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar of the front piece template is equal to 5 and 1/3;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclination of the front piece template is equal to 7, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 3;
2 perpendicular bisectors passing through the rear armhole arc of the rear piece template are equally divided, and 1 perpendicular bisector passing through the front armhole arc of the front piece template is equally divided by 2/3;
the waist of the front piece template is provided with a front middle waist and a front side waist, and the waist of the rear piece template is provided with a rear middle waist and a rear side waist, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist;
the distance from the waist pitch line of the front and back sample plates to the lower cycloid of the drawing is the length of the golden section with the length of the back waist pitch.
Further, the sleeve peak height of the sleeve plate template is the long section of the golden section of the connecting line of the end point of the rear upper flat line and the midpoint of the chest circumference of the drawing;
the width of the large sleeve root of the sleeve piece template is 14 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line is downwards prolonged by 17 equal parts to form sleeve lengths, wherein the width of the big cuff is the width of the big cuff root minus 3 equal parts, the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with an upturned distance of 2/3 equal parts, the rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a falling distance of 2/3 equal parts, and the width of the small cuff is 6 equal parts.
Preferably, the width of the front middle waist section is 1 equal division, the width of the front side waist section is 1/3 equal division, the width of the rear middle waist section is 1 equal division, and the width of the rear side waist section is 3 equal division;
the rear center lower hem loss-saving amount is 1 equal division, the rear side lower hem loss-saving amount is 1/2 equal division, the front side lower hem overlapping amount is 1 equal division, and the front center seam falls down by 1 equal division.
Preferably, the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the residual block is divided by the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province and the residual block to generate beta amount by dividing the drawing chest circumference, and the cycloid under the drawing is shifted upwards by beta amount to obtain the length of the rear middle garment.
The three-open men's wear comprises a front piece and a rear piece which are symmetrically spliced, sleeve pieces are arranged at armholes of the front piece and the rear piece, and the front piece, the rear piece and the sleeve pieces are made of the golden ratio three-open men's wear model.
A three-open man-made board manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference, namely a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is a front drawing chest circumference, the other half of the drawing chest circumference is a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus one half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is a front chest width, and the two times of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the rear drawing chest circumference is a back width;
2) Designing a half of the back waist length of the back template to be the back width, wherein the long section of the back waist length golden section is positioned on the upper back;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length golden section and the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line and is marked as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of a rear drawing chest circumference, the rear shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width plus 1 bisection, the width of the rear transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 bisections, the small shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be 9 bisections, the longitudinal height of the rear straight open collar is designed to be 1 and 2/3 bisections, and the bisection is 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 5 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to form 1/2 equal parts of the small shoulder solution position;
5) After the right end point of the rear line segment 2 falls down and the longitudinal height distance of the direct-opening collar is shortened, a front upper flat line which is equal to the front drawing chest circumference in length is arranged at the front sample plate in a flush manner and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 6 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5 and 1/3 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 7 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, and the front small shoulder length is equal to the rear small shoulder length obtained by the side;
8) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
9) On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist section length after downward movement is set as a waist section line and is marked as a line segment 4;
10 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height, which is the long segment of the rear waist section length golden section, is set as a lower cycloid of the drawing and marked as a line segment 5.
11 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the rest blocks by the drawing chest circumference to generate beta amount, and shifting the cycloid under the drawing upwards by beta amount to obtain the length of the rear middle garment.
Further, the method for manufacturing the sleeve sheet template comprises the following steps:
designing a long section of the golden section of the connection line between the end point of the rear upper flat line and the midpoint of the chest circumference of the drawing as the sleeve height of the sleeve sheet;
the width of the large sleeve root of the sleeve piece template is 14 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line is downwards prolonged by 17 equal parts to form sleeve lengths, wherein the width of the big cuff is the width of the big cuff root minus 3 equal parts, the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with an upturned distance of 2/3 equal parts, the rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a falling distance of 2/3 equal parts, and the width of the small cuff is 6 equal parts.
According to the technical scheme, the golden ratio division is firstly and comprehensively introduced into the structural design of the three-open-body men's clothing, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, the drawing waistline 34 equal division used for the clothing is combined to replace numerical conversion to set the position saving, the quantity saving and the modeling design, the situation that the quantity saving is calculated and distributed every place along with the increase and decrease of chest circumference is avoided, the integral coordination of the equal ratio of the positions and the matching length of the circumferences after the quantity is added is created, the correspondence of the positions and the correspondence of the circumferences is ensured, so that the teaching and learning of the clothing design is no longer the inaccuracy of the positions along with the different specifications, the connection of the positions is realized, the design is always scientifically ordered, the appearance is not lost, repeated modification is not needed, the sample clothing is repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a three-open-body men's clothing frame of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is an expanded plan view of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic illustration of the 1/3 aliquot, 1/4 aliquot of the drawings of FIGS. 2 and 5;
FIG. 4 is a block diagram of the area surplus block taken out of FIG. 2;
FIG. 5 is a layout of a garment body in a pattern template of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a layout of two sleeves in a garment template of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged schematic view of the 1/3 aliquot of FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is a full body effect diagram of a three-open body men's suit embodiment of the invention;
FIG. 9 is a diagram of collar and button modeling design factors for an embodiment;
FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a model of a body design structure in the present embodiment;
fig. 11 is a diagram showing a two-piece sleeve design structure according to the present embodiment.
Detailed Description
A preferred embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the golden ratio three-open men's wear style panel includes a front panel 100, a rear panel 200, and a sleeve panel 300. The chest of the clothing template is provided with a drawing chest circumference AD, the right side is a front drawing chest circumference, and the left side is a rear drawing chest circumference.
The width DB of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width AB of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference AD, the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width DE, 1/3 equal division E with a narrow splitting door is added, and the width of the front chest width DE can be designed to be 12 equal divisions; the width of the back width AC may be designed to be 13 equal parts, or twice the short distance of the golden section of the width AB of the back chest.
The length of half of the back waist length FG of the back plate is back width AC, and the long section of the back waist length FG golden section is positioned on the upper back AG.
The back upper flat line HK of the back piece template is equal in width with the back drawing chest circumference, the back width AC is added with 1 equal division into the width of the back shoulder width HJ, the width HI of the back transverse open collar on the back upper flat line HK is 5 equal divisions, the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar of the back piece template is 1 and 2/3 equal divisions, and the small shoulder width IJ on the back upper flat line HK is 9 equal divisions, which is 1/34 of the drawing waistline width.
The transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder inclined height KL of the rear piece template is 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 5 equal parts, the outer shoulder end of the rear piece template is discharged to form 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder solution position, and the lower arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/4 equal parts U. And draw a back collar arc.
The front upper flat line MN of the front piece template is lower than the rear upper flat line HK by the longitudinal height GH of the rear direct open collar, and the width of the front upper flat line MN is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference.
The width NO of the front transverse opening collar on the front upper flat line MN is equal to 6, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight opening collar of the front piece template is equal to 5 and 1/3.
The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS of the front piece template is equal to 7, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 3, the front small shoulder length is equal to the rear small shoulder length obtained by side, and the upper arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/4 equal to T. The vertical angle arc distance of the front collar arc line is equal to 2.5 equal parts of Q.
The rear armhole arc line of the rear piece template passes through the perpendicular bisector 2 equally divided, and the front armhole arc line of the front piece template passes through the perpendicular bisector 1/3 equally divided.
The distance from the waist pitch line FW of the front and back sample plates to the cycloid XY under the drawing is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length FG.
As shown in fig. 2 and 3, the waist of the front panel template is provided with front middle waist regions 29-30 and front side waist regions 27-28, and the waist of the rear panel template is provided with rear middle waist regions F-24 and rear side waist regions 25-26, wherein the front side waist regions are adjacent to the rear side waist regions.
The width of the front middle waist province is 1 equal division, the width of the front side waist province is 1/3 equal division, the width of the rear middle waist province is 1 equal division, and the width of the rear side waist province is 3 equal division.
The rear center lower hem loss-saving amount X-33 is 1 equal division, the rear side lower hem loss-saving amount 34 is 1/2 equal division, the front side lower hem overlapping amount 35 is 1 equal division, and the front center lower hem 36 falls 1 equal division.
As shown in fig. 2 and 4, the clothing CAD software is used to remove the remaining pieces of clothing body loss (square centimeter) area, and a, b, c, d, e, f, g (the overlapping amount is subtracted in the later calculation) h and i are sequentially from the back.
The golden rectangle is applied to the structural design of the three-open men's clothing, and half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity of the reference diagram is the content in the width, which is referred to as chest circumference; the other half refers to the length, i.e. the (posterior middle) garment length to be determined. Namely, the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the left block is divided by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate beta quantity, and the cycloid XY under the drawing is shifted upwards by beta quantity to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment, so the length of the rear middle garment is the height of the rear waist section, and the length section of the golden section of the height of the rear waist section is subtracted by 2 equal parts.
As shown in fig. 6 and 7, the sleeve height BS2 of the sleeve panel template 300 is the long segment of the golden section of the line KB connecting the end point K of the back upper flat line HK and the midpoint B of the chest circumference.
Width A of large sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 W 1 The width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line FW is downwards prolonged by 17 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the big cuff 1 W 2 The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with an upturned W with the distance of 2/3 equal parts 2 The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop C with a distance of 2/3 equal parts 1 The width of the small cuff was 6 equally divided.
Equal division of large sleeve arc line attached rear sleeve fertilizer and front sleeve S 3 And setting, namely enabling the small sleeve arc line to pass through the 1/3 equal part B.
As shown in fig. 1 and 8, the present invention further provides a three-open men's garment, which comprises a front panel 101, a rear panel 201 and side panels 301 which are symmetrically spliced, wherein armholes of the front panel and the rear panel are provided with armholes, and the armholes comprise a spliced large armhole 401 and a spliced small armhole 402. The front garment piece, the rear garment piece and the sleeve piece are all made of the golden ratio three-open men's garment type template.
The invention also provides a method for manufacturing the three-open man-made board, which comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference AD (chest circumference 92 cm+14 cm of looseness and 4cm of loss saving), and recording as a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is a front drawing chest circumference, the other half is a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus one half of the long distance of the width DB golden section of the front drawing chest circumference is a front chest width DE, and the two times of the short distance of the width AB golden section of the rear drawing chest circumference is a back width AC;
2) The length of half of the back waist pitch length FG of the back piece template is designed to be the back width AC, wherein the long section of the back waist pitch length FG golden section is positioned on the upper back AG;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length FG golden section and the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line HK and is recorded as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of the back drawing chest circumference, the width HJ of the back shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width AC plus 1 bisection, the width HI of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 bisections, the small shoulder width IJ on the line segment 2 is designed to be 9 bisections, the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1 and 2/3 bisections, and the bisections are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height KL at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 5 equal parts, the solution position of the small shoulder is 1/2 equal parts after the outer shoulder end is released, and the lower arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/4 equal parts U;
5) After the right end point K of the rear line segment 2 falls down and the longitudinal height GH of the direct open collar is a distance, a front upper flat line MN which is equal to the front drawing chest circumference in length is arranged at the front sample plate in a flush manner and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width NO of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 6 equal parts, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5 and 1/3 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 7 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, the front small shoulder length is equal to the rear small shoulder length obtained by the side, and the upper arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/4 equal part T;
8) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
9) On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist section length FG after downward movement is set as a waist section line FW and is marked as a line segment 4;
10 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward moving drawing hip height FX is set as a cycloid XY under drawing and is marked as a line segment 5, wherein the drawing hip height FX is a long segment of the rear waist pitch length FG golden section;
11 The upper, middle and lower opposite rear side seams of the side sheet are all moved downwards by 1/3 of the equal division height;
12 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate beta amount, and shifting the cycloid XY upwards by beta amount under the drawing to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment.
The method for manufacturing the sleeve sheet comprises the following specific steps:
the sleeve piece comprises a spliced large sleeve piece 401 and a spliced small sleeve piece 402;
designing a long section of the golden section of a connecting line KB of an end point K of a rear upper flat line HK and a middle point B of a drawing chest circumference as a sleeve peak height BS2 of a sleeve sheet;
width A of large sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 W 1 The width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line FW is downwards prolonged by 17 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the big cuff 1 W 2 The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with an upturned W with the distance of 2/3 equal parts 2 The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop C with a distance of 2/3 equal parts 1 The width of the small cuff was 6 equally divided.
Above-mentioned men's clothing size type national standard "A", its net chest circumference 92cm + pine 14cm + loss 4cm, net waistline 78 cm + pine 12 cm, shoulder width 45.3cm, back midcoat length 64.9 cm, sleeve length 61.3cm, cuff 27.5cm.
Then the model is designed easily and freely depending on the reference diagram, and an ideal new model is changed, and the reference diagram is shown in figures 9-11.
1. And (5) a flat collar. On the basis of a reference diagram of the drawing, the middle collar seat is 1/2/3 equal parts (2.7 cm) higher than the middle collar seat after the 1 equal part vertical angle is set equal to 3 equal parts, the middle collar width is 2/5 equal parts (3.5 cm) and the outer collar width is 1/5 equal parts, the mouth-missing, the lapel length and the lapel width are attached to the equal parts, and the outer collar length is generated by attaching the front collar and the rear collar.
2. Folding door and clothes length. Although chest circumference is not calculated in the folding door, the chest circumference is 2cm, and the clothing length is lengthened by 2.4 cm according to the attribute of the golden ratio. The front lower hem fillet falls down by 1/2 equally (0.8 cm). The front lower hem fillet is equally divided (6.5 cm) by a vertical angle bisector 4.
3. The back armhole is turned off to save the loss. The man's suit is turned off the back armholes to save the loss amount, so as to increase the back arc potential of the human body.
4. Bag position, left chest bag, lower bag (cover). The left chest bag is 3.5 equal parts (5.6 cm) from the front central line, the length of the bag is 6.5 equal parts (10.5 cm), the width of the bag is 1.5 equal parts (2.5 cm), the front opening of the bag is level with the chest girth line, and the other end of the bag is tilted 1 equal parts (1.6 cm); the lower bag is positioned at the lower part of the waist section, 3 parts (5.4 cm) and 1/3 parts (5.1 cm) of the waist section, the bag cover is 5 parts (8.1 cm) from the front central line, 9.5 parts (15.4 cm) of the bag length, 3 parts (5.4 cm) of the width and 1/3 parts (5.4 cm) of the width, 2/3 parts (1 cm) of the double teeth of the bag, and the arc line of the rounded corner of the bag is drawn along, and the inclined potential of the bag is parallel to the bottom line.
5. A single row of two buckles. The first particle is buckled on the graph making waist section by 2 equal parts (3.2 cm), and the second particle is buckled under the graph making waist section by 5 equal parts (8.1 cm).
6. Two pieces of sleeve cuffs. The length of the vent is 7 equal parts (11.3 cm), the width of the vent is 2 equal parts (3.2 cm), and the left sleeve and the right sleeve are respectively nailed with four buckles.
7. The rear middle waist section is provided with a movable vent. 2 equal parts (3.2 cm) of the rear middle waist section and 3 equal parts (5 cm) of the width of the living vent
8. And (5) sporadic raw auxiliary materials. The dried noodles and the bag strips are arranged conventionally.
To this end, the present example effect chart shows an actual chest circumference of 106cm, a shoulder width of 45.3cm, a back coat length of 67.3cm, a sleeve length of 61.3cm, and a cuff length of 27.5cm.
The chest circumference value of the invention realizes the overall isocratic of the structural design, does not memorize the basic data size, and equally designs the novel modeling key points by using the chest circumference value. The method is characterized in that the method conforms to the national standards of the male clothing size, the distribution data of the provinces and the provinces are changed uniformly due to different specifications, the provinces are troublesome, the provinces are utilized to distribute each province by means of equal division, and the memory data size is eliminated. How much is the three-open man suit length for a known chest circumference match? The image-text combination of the invention gives out scientific conclusion.
In order to meet the natural law, namely the golden ratio, and solve the specific technical problems of clothing industry in human production and life, the application patent of the golden ratio is taught to process integrity, scientificity is shown, step contents are greatly increased, related drawings are on A4 paper, the parts of the parts need to be partially enlarged, in practice, the clothing structural design drawing is 1 to 1, and manual or clothing CAD software drawing is adopted, so that the theory of the partially enlarged drawing is avoided. The figure 5 and figure 6 (the figure is marked by the length, the length and the equal division of the golden section instead of the size of the part, and the figure is described by words) are directly adjusted into the figure 5 and figure 6 which are combined with each other in clinic, the clothing CAD software is conveniently and quickly used for zooming into a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification, and then the design of the desired detailed structural modeling is completed according to the style.
People recognize that the European and American persons are high and large in golden ratio, the golden ratio is not limited by factors such as age, ethnicity and region, small and exquisite small and small persons and large persons and medium persons conform to the golden ratio, the people taking care of the shapes and the shapes of the eyes include the majority of children approaching the golden ratio, and the people are provided with multi-grade size codes corresponding. The characteristic of the golden proportion of the human body is given to the nature, and the nature is naturally restricted by a plurality of factors in the life and growth process, so that sporadic specialization appears, and the nature is also designed in a changing way on the basis of the model without symptoms. Industrial mass production is a model which is required to be standard in points, lines and surfaces, and most of the defects of the body are covered by detailed design and setting off of clothing accessories, so that the dressing of most people is satisfied.
The technical scheme of the invention is not only used for normal bodies, but also is applicable to special bodies such as Y type, B type, C type, D type and the like, namely the percentage change data between the pushing-out of the chest circumference, waistline, trouser length and the like of the reference graph, and has infinite scientific application potential. The clothing is cut to measure, fat people are contraindicated to make very fat, thin people are made very thin, so that the constant amount seems to be possible from the technical point of view, and natural (artistic) aesthetic factors are lacked.
The above-described embodiments are merely illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and various modifications and improvements made by those skilled in the art to the technical solution of the present invention should fall within the scope of protection defined by the claims of the present invention without departing from the spirit of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. A golden ratio three-open men's wear style template, comprising a front piece template (100), a back piece template (200) and a sleeve piece template (300), characterized in that:
the width (DB) of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference (AD), the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width (DE), and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width (AC);
the length (FG) of the back waist section of the back plate is twice the width (AC) of the back, and the long section of the golden section of the length (FG) of the back waist section is positioned on the upper back (AG);
the rear upper flat line (HK) of the rear piece template is equal to the rear drawing chest circumference in width, the rear shoulder width (HJ) is divided into 1 equal part by adding the rear shoulder width (AC), the width (HI) of the rear transverse open collar on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height (GH) of the rear straight open collar of the rear piece template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, and the small shoulder width (IJ) on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 9 equal parts by dividing into 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height (KL) of the back plate sample plate is 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 5 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to form 1/2 equal parts of the back small shoulder solution position;
the front upper flat line (MN) of the front piece template is lower than the rear upper flat line (HK) by the longitudinal height (GH) of the rear direct open collar, and the width of the front upper flat line (MN) is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width (NO) of the front transverse open collar on the front upper flat line (MN) is equal to 6, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight open collar of the front piece template is equal to 5 and 1/3;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) of the front piece template is equal to 7, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 3;
2 perpendicular bisectors passing through the rear armhole arc of the rear piece template are equally divided, and 1 perpendicular bisector passing through the front armhole arc of the front piece template is equally divided by 2/3;
the waist of the front piece template is provided with a front middle waist and a front side waist, and the waist of the rear piece template is provided with a rear middle waist and a rear side waist, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist;
the distance from the waist pitch line (FW) of the front and back sample plates to the hypocycloid (XY) is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length (FG);
the sleeve peak height (BS 2) of the sleeve sheet template is the long section of the golden section of the connecting line (KB) of the endpoint (K) of the rear upper flat line (HK) and the middle point (B) of the chest circumference of the drawing;
width of large sleeve root of sleeve piece templateThe width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards extended by 17 equally-divided sleeve lengths +.>Wherein the width of the big cuff +.>The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with upwarp +.>The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a distance of 2/3 of the equal parts of the fall +.>The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve piece template is equal to 6;
the width of the front middle waist province is 1 equal division, the width of the front side waist province is 1/3 equal division, the width of the rear middle waist province is 1 equal division, and the width of the rear side waist province is 3 equal division.
2. A golden ratio three-open-body men's wear style template as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference (AD) to generate beta amount, and translating the cycloid (XY) under the drawing upwards by beta amount to obtain the rear middle coat length (GZ).
3. The three-open men's wear comprises a front piece (101) and a rear piece (201) which are symmetrically spliced, wherein sleeve pieces are arranged at armholes of the front piece and the rear piece, and the three-open men's wear is characterized in that the front piece, the rear piece and the sleeve pieces are made of the golden ratio three-open men's wear template according to claim 1 or 2.
4. A method of making a three-open-body men's wear board using the golden ratio three-open-body men's wear board of claim 1, comprising the steps of:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference (AD), which is marked as a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is the width (DB) of a front drawing chest circumference, the other half is the width (AB) of a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus the half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width (DE), and the two times of the short distance of the golden section of the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width (AC);
2) Designing a half of a back waist length (FG) of the back panel to be a back width (AC), wherein a long section of the golden section of the back waist length (FG) is located at the upper back (AG);
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of the long segment of the back waist length (FG) golden section and the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line (HK) and is recorded as a line segment 2;
designing the width of the line segment 2 as the width of the back drawing chest circumference, designing the back shoulder width (HJ) on the line segment 2 as the back width (AC) plus 1 bisection, designing the width (HI) of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 as 5 bisections, designing the small shoulder width (IJ) on the line segment 2 as 9 bisections, designing the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar as 1 and 2/3 bisections, and dividing the bisections into 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height (KL) at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 12 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 5 equal parts, and the solution position of the small shoulder after the outer shoulder end is released is 1/2 equal parts;
5) After the right end point (K) of the rear line segment 2 falls behind the longitudinal height (GH) distance of the direct open collar, a front upper flat line (MN) which is equal to the front drawing chest circumference in length is arranged at the front sample plate in a flush manner and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width (NO) of the front transverse opening collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 6 equal parts, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight opening collar is designed to be 5 and 1/3 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 7 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts;
8) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
9) On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist pitch length (FG) after downward movement is set as a waist pitch line (FW), and is marked as a line segment 4;
10 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height (FX) is set as a drawing hypocycloid (XY), denoted as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height (FX) is the long segment of the rear waist pitch length (FG) golden section;
11 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference (AD) to generate beta amount, and translating the cycloid (XY) under the drawing upwards by beta amount to obtain the rear middle coat length (GZ).
5. The method for manufacturing a three-open-body men's clothing sheet according to claim 4, further comprising a method for manufacturing a sleeve panel template:
designing a long section of the golden section of a connecting line (KB) of an end point (K) of a rear upper flat line (HK) and a middle point (B) of a drawing chest circumference as a sleeve peak (BS 2) of a sleeve sheet;
width of large sleeve root of sleeve piece templateThe width of the small sleeve root is 8.5 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards extended by 17 equally-divided sleeve lengths +.>Wherein the width of the big cuff +.>The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with upwarp +.>The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a distance of 2/3 of the equal parts of the fall +.>The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve piece template is equal to 6.
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| CN201811327789 | 2018-11-06 | ||
| CN2018113277896 | 2018-11-06 |
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| CN201921903604.1U Withdrawn - After Issue CN211558934U (en) | 2018-11-06 | 2019-11-06 | Golden ratio male clothes model with three openings and male clothes with three openings |
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| CN110693118B (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2024-01-05 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio three-open men's clothing template, three-open men's clothing and plate making method |
| CN112765831B (en) * | 2021-02-01 | 2022-07-26 | 上海滨耀服饰有限公司 | Intelligent version changing method for customizing men's shirt |
| CN113519953A (en) * | 2021-06-21 | 2021-10-22 | 厦门理工学院 | Clothing structure plate making method |
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| CN211558934U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio male clothes model with three openings and male clothes with three openings |
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- 2019-11-06 CN CN201911078252.5A patent/CN110693118B/en active Active
- 2019-11-06 CN CN201921903604.1U patent/CN211558934U/en not_active Withdrawn - After Issue
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| GB1025315A (en) * | 1963-11-22 | 1966-04-06 | Margaretha Johanna Florentina | New or improved basic pattern for use in clothes making |
| CN87202572U (en) * | 1987-02-26 | 1988-01-27 | 韩峰 | Adjustable garments quick cut-out sample plate |
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| CN110693118A (en) | 2020-01-17 |
| CN211558934U (en) | 2020-09-25 |
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