WO2013190686A1

WO2013190686A1 - Suit pattern

Info

Publication number: WO2013190686A1
Application number: PCT/JP2012/065900
Authority: WO
Inventors: 船橋幸彦
Original assignee: FUNABASHI Yukihiko
Priority date: 2012-06-21
Filing date: 2012-06-21
Publication date: 2013-12-27
Also published as: JP5704675B2; JPWO2013190686A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suit pattern for a style capable of fitting wearers of various body types. In conventional suit tailoring, no consideration has been given to measuring areas most required for fitting a body shape, such as the inclination of the wearer's shoulders, shoulder length, forward inclination of the back, bending backward, and the like. [Solution] A suit pattern characterized in being configured by: setting, as left and right shoulder rear base points, points specified by moving forward from the center line of the back by a length that is one-half the circumference of the chest multiplied by 0.177±0.005, and then moving upward perpendicularly from that point approximately one-fourth of the length of the movement length; setting, as left and right shoulder front-rear base points, points specified by the intersection of a line perpendicular to a position that is 0.56±0.05 times the length from the front body front-end edge to the front-end edge of the sleeve hole, and an absolute horizontal line from the left or right shoulder front-rear base point; setting, as left and right front-rear shoulder ridge lines, lines joining the left and right shoulder front-rear base points and the cut-out front-rear end section of the sleeve hole at a fixed adjustment angle; and stitching each of the front-rear shoulder ridgelines together.

Description

Obihiro type

The present invention relates to a spine prototype.

In the past, tailoring of outerwear has been devised to make it easier to wear tailored clothing (outerwear) or to exercise while wearing it. ing.

For example, in Japanese Patent No. 4779085, each pattern is based on an upper pattern formed by integrally cutting the buttocks and left and right sleeves and a lower pattern formed by integrally cutting the front and back bodies. By appropriately joining the buttocks joint line and the left front body joint line to form the garment, the garment is lightened, and the wearer's movement is not limited, making it easy to move and workability. It is possible to provide comfortable clothes with excellent safety.

In the patent No. 4537553, the arm member connected to the upper part of the front body and the back body is divided into a forearm member, a rear arm member, and a lower arm member, and the sleeve is made of at least three members, and the shape of each arm member Is curved in a certain direction, or the side edge part attached to the front body and the back body intersects at an acute angle, and the intersection of the acute angle becomes a buttock to form a necessary space for exercise in the sewing state .
By cutting in this way, the sleeve part is lightly bent at the elbow to form a three-dimensional shape close to the curve of the arm protruding diagonally downward and forward, and the outerwear has good wearing feeling with respect to the movement of the arm front and rear, left and right It is said.

Japanese Patent No. 4779085 Japanese Patent No. 4537553

However, in the sewing of outerwear by such sewing patterns and disassembly patterns of the sleeve part, although it is certainly excellent in comfort and ease of exercise, the style that is regarded as most important with respect to outerwear such as suits and jackets There is a difficulty in this point.
In other words, it conforms to various conditions of the wearer's body shape, such as height, tilting back and forth (back of the back, warped body), vertical balance of the left and right shoulders, and so on. Cannot sew a suit that fits.

Also, in a general suit, a suit is created by stitching the left and right body parts, which are formed by dividing the main body of the back into the left and right sides from the back center line, and stitching them together at the back. Each body part is composed of a combination of a front body and a back body. At that time, measure the length between both shoulder widths, length, bust length, waist length, sleeve length, etc. so that it matches the body shape of the standard wearer as much as possible. Specific left and right half body parts, or left and right half body parts for standard backs for each body type, or specific wearers based on orders from specific people The left and right half body parts tailored to the body shape of the body are made, and the suit is made based on these left and right half body parts.

However, the part of the upper body to be measured in the production of such a suit is limited to the part traditionally specified from ancient times such as the height, bust line, shoulder width, sleeve length, and the like.

In this way, the conventional tailoring does not consider the measurement of the body part that is most necessary to fit the body shape, such as the inclination of the shoulder of the wearer, the shoulder length, the forward inclination of the back, and the body. In addition, there has been no technique for cutting a pattern in consideration of the correlation between the measurement result of the essential part and the measurement result of another part.

Therefore, there has been a demand for a technique for making a suit easily by performing measurement that best fits the wearer's various body shapes, cutting the pattern based on the measurement.

For example, in the measurement of traditional tailoring, even if the measurement part of the wearer's body shape is increased and the measurement is performed over the details, in order to realize the measurement result in the cutting of each part of the left and right body parts, However, correlation between each measurement that fits the body shape is necessary, and even if the pattern is cut only based on the numerical value of the measurement without considering such a fixed correlation, an accurate spine prototype is completed. Absent.

In this invention, the measurement part of the wearer's body shape is limited to a specific part such as the base point of the shoulder line and the inclination from the shoulder line, and the ground height before and after the body from this specific part is measured. By reflecting the various body shapes of the wearer, in particular, the different body, bend, shoulder angle, length, etc., in the sewing of the back, the left and right half body parts can be easily produced, and the wearer of various body shapes This is to provide a wide prototype with a style that can be fitted to the body.

This invention consists of a left half part and a right half part formed by dividing the outer jacket main body into left and right parts from the back center line of the back part, and a substantially elliptical shape formed by partially cutting the upper part of the center upper part of the left and right half parts. The left and right sleeve holes, the heel formed at the front edge of the left body part body, the chest width part in front of the sleeve hole part, the side width part below the sleeve hole part, and the back behind the sleeve hole part The upper part of the original centerline of the wearer's original back center line, formed by joining and sewing together the partially cut ends of the left and right cuffs and the back sewing lines of the left and right body parts. From the back base point to be moved, it moves forward by a length calculated by applying a pre-defined correction formula to the length of the chest circumference or the length around the neck, and from the moved point to about 1/4 of the movement length The point identified by moving vertically upward for the length of The point specified by the intersection of the vertical line approximately 0.5 to 0.6 times the length from the edge to the front edge of the cuff and the absolute horizontal line from the left and right shoulder rear base point The length of the curved neck line between the back base point of the back of the back body and the left and right shoulder front and back points, and the length from the temporary left and right shoulder front and back base points to the ground surface passing through the back side of the wearer's body Correct the position of the right and left shoulder front and rear base points by correcting the length to the ground surface passing through the chest side, and with the fixed right and left shoulder front base points with a fixed adjustment angle and the notch front end of the cuff The connected line is the left and right front shoulder ridge line, and the right and left shoulder shoulder ridgeline is the right and left shoulder shoulder ridge line with the shoulder tilt angle of each shoulder from the corrected right and left shoulder rear base point. Shirohirogen characterized by joining and sewing the shoulder ridgeline It is intended to provide.
The correction formula applied to the chest circumference from the back center line when specifying the left and right shoulder back base points is (0.15 to 0.20) about 1/2 of the chest circumference. It is intended to provide a prototype of the spine characterized by multiplication.
The correction formula applied to the length around the neck from the back center line when specifying the length around the neck is (10-15) added to the length around the neck, and the total is calculated as The present invention provides a broad-type prototype characterized by dividing by (5-7).

As described above, the basic idea of the present invention is to measure the length of the chest circumference or neck that is an objective numerical value of the wearer, apply the correction formula to it, Temporary left and right shoulder front and back base points are set at a certain distance and place from the back base point. By adding the shoulder inclination angle to the elements of the length of the neck line and the distance from the temporary base point to the ground surface that has passed through the front and back of the body at the position of the temporary base point, Correct the position of the shoulder front and back base points to the correct position, and set the correct left and right shoulder front and rear base points on the pattern. The basic idea is to set each point of the pattern required for the spine prototype using the right and left shoulder front and back base points as the origin of all dimensions.
In other words, when creating a prototype of the back, it is necessary to use factors such as the actual wearer's neck line measurement value, the distance from the temporary left and right shoulder front and back base points to the ground surface passing through the front and back surfaces of the body, and the shoulder inclination angle. With this method, no matter how much the wearer's physical physique is different, the left and right sides of the wearer always have a balanced posture with “Yajirobe” as the center, and the best prototype for comfort can be provided.

According to the present invention, in the prototype of the back that is necessary for creating a normal back, virtual left and right shoulder front and rear base points are specified by a certain method on both shoulder portions, and the shoulder inclination and collar are centered on this base point. It calculates various dimensions necessary for the back, such as the length of the back, and creates a so-called stencil pattern, specifically, the position of the temporary left shoulder back base point around the wearer's chest or neck By applying a certain correction formula to the length, and then by the length of the curved neck line between the dorsal base point which should be the upper end of the wearer's original back center line and the temporary left shoulder back base point The correct left shoulder back base point is specified by correcting the length passing through the chest side and back side from the temporary left shoulder back base point to the ground surface, and the correct left shoulder front base point is specified from the correct left shoulder back base point. Unique to the wearer such as yakari-type, stoop and back It is possible to produce clothing that fits the mold, and it is also easy to produce such measurements and patterns that represent the prototype of the suit, which requires a high level of skill to produce a prototype of the suit that fits each person's body. There is an effect that can be performed without.

The garment made with such a stencil prototype fits the wearer's body precisely and has a shoulder that is easy to act on, so the left and right arms do not cause unnecessary wrinkles near the back of the neck or around the shoulder when worn. There is an effect that it is possible to provide a wearing posture of a smart suit that adapts to the movement of the person.
In particular, the virtual left and right shoulder front / rear base points are temporarily identified based on the length from the back base point along the neck line, and then the length from the ground surface is measured to correct the measured values while correcting the measured values. Since the base point was specified and the right and left shoulder front and back base points were used as reference points for the various dimensions required for the sword model, the left and right shoulders of the back were worn in a balanced form using the principle of `` Yajirobe '' centered on the back base point. There is an effect that can fit any body shape of the person.

The expanded view which shows the left half body part of the spine original type | mold of this invention. The expanded view which shows the right half body part of the spine original type | mold of this invention. The three-dimensional side view after the sewing of the broad-width prototype of the present invention. The three-dimensional perspective view after the sewing of the broad-width prototype of the present invention. The perspective view of the suit clothes produced with the model of the suit of the present invention. The partially expanded view which shows the periphery of the left shoulder back base point in the spine prototype of this invention. The partially expanded view which shows the periphery of the left shoulder back base point in the spine prototype of this invention. Explanatory drawing which shows the measurement state of the length of a wearer's provisional left shoulder front and back base points N and M and the ground surface GL. Explanatory drawing of the base point setting measure. Explanatory drawing of a height measurement measure. Explanatory drawing which suspended the loop-shaped base point setting measure from the wearer's neck.

Left and right body parts formed by dividing the outer jacket body into left and right parts from the back center line of the back part, and left and right half sleeve holes formed by cutting out the upper part of the center upper part of the left and right body parts. And a buttock formed on the front edge of the left body part main body, a chest width part in front of the sleeve hole part, a side width part below the sleeve hole part, and a back width part behind the sleeve hole part. Constructed, in a wide prototype that is formed by joining and sewing the notch ends of the left and right cuffs and the back sewing lines of the left and right half body parts,
The point moved from the back base point, which should be the upper end of the wearer's original centerline, to the front by a length calculated by applying a pre-defined correction formula to the chest circumference or neck length. The point identified by moving vertically up to about 1/4 of the movement length from
The point specified by the intersection of the vertical line that is approximately 0.5 to 0.6 times the length from the front edge of the front body to the front edge of the cuffs and the absolute horizontal line from the left and right shoulder rear base points Before starting,
Depending on the length of the curved neck line between the back base point of the back of the back body and the back base point of the left and right shoulders, the length from the temporary left and right shoulder base points to the ground surface passing through the back side of the wearer's body Correct the position of the right and left shoulder front and rear base points by correcting the length to the ground surface passing through the chest side, and with the fixed right and left shoulder front base points with a fixed adjustment angle and the notch front end of the cuff The connected line is the left and right front shoulder ridge line, and the line connected to the notch rear end of the cuff with the inclination angle of each shoulder from the corrected left and right shoulder rear base point is the left and right rear shoulder ridge line,
Produce a stencil prototype A by making it a stencil prototype characterized by joining and sewing the front shoulder ridge line and the back shoulder ridge line, and then add necessary parts and back fabric, etc. The production of the main body 100 is completed.
The correction formula applied to the half of the chest circumference from the back center line when specifying the left and right shoulder back base points is to multiply the chest circumference by (0.15 to 0.20). Features.
The correction formula applied to the length around the neck from the back center line when specifying the length around the neck is (10 to 15) added to the length around the neck, and the total is (5 To 7).

As shown in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, the spine prototype X of the present invention is basically a left half part 1 formed by dividing the outer body 100 from the wearer's original back center line 101 ′ on the back. And the right body part 2, a substantially elliptical cuff 3 formed by cutting out the upper part of the center of the left and

right body parts

1, 2, and the front edge 4 of the front body of the left body part 1 by bending. The heel portion 5, the chest width portion b 3 in front of the sleeve hole portion 3, the side width portion b 2 below the sleeve hole portion 3, and the back width portion b 1 behind the sleeve hole portion 3, The cut-out end portions S of the part 3 and the back center lines 101 of the left and right

half body parts

1 and 2 are joined and sewn.

In particular, the left and right shoulder front base points N and the left and right shoulder rear base points M are specified in the shoulder portions of the left and right

half body parts

1 and 2, respectively, and the shoulder 3 is cut away from the left and right shoulder front base points N with a shoulder inclination angle θ. A line connected to the front end portion 35 is referred to as a front shoulder ridge line 6, and a line connected to the notch rear end portion 36 of the sleeve hole portion 3 from the left and right shoulder rear base point M is referred to as a rear shoulder ridge line 7.

Then, when creating the spine prototype X, the three-dimensional spine prototype X (shown in FIG. 4) is completed by joining and sewing the front shoulder ridge line 6 and the back shoulder ridge line 7.

The left and right half body parts 1 are basically composed of a front body part I and a rear body part B. The left half part part 1 shown in FIG. The front body is the front body and the rear body is the rear body, and the front and rear bodies A and B are cut separately and cut together at a predetermined line at the time of actual cutting.

The stitching line between the front body a and the back body b is “front shoulder ridge line 6 and back shoulder ridge line 7” and “sewing allowance y4”. 1 is formed.

In the following, a case will be described in which a paper pattern U as the back prototype X is created for the left body part 1 in the configuration of the present back prototype X.

(1) Temporary identification of the left shoulder rear base point M The left shoulder rear base point M is a point located at the upper end of the back center line 101 of the back portion with the back upper end O, and is set to 1/2 P of the chest circumference (0.177 ± 0. 005) and the point moved outward by a length of 0.1 is defined as the back base point O ′. It moves forward from the back base point O ′ by a length L1 obtained by multiplying 1 / 2P of the chest circumference by (0.177 ± 0.005), and further from the moving point m to about 1/4 of the moving length. This is a point specified by moving vertically upward by L2.
Although the measurement method for specifying the temporary left shoulder base point M in the temporary pattern U has been described, the length around the wearer's neck is not limited to the length P of the wearer's chest circumference. There is also a method based on PP.
That is, add “13” to the length PP around the neck, and divide the total by 6 to L1, and move vertically from the m point of L1 by a length L2 that is a quarter of L1. Thus, the specified point can be set as a temporary left shoulder rear base point M.
That is, L1 = (PP + 13) ÷ 6 and L2 = L1 × 1/4.

The temporary left shoulder front base point N is a position that is (0.56 ± 0.05) times the length L3 (FD) from the front body front edge 4 to the side width point D of the front edge of the sleeve 3 This is a point specified by the intersection of the vertical line G of the vertical point g and the absolute horizontal line v from the left and right shoulder rear base point M.

Moreover, a constant adjustment angle from the left shoulder front base point N, that is, a line connected to the notch front end portion of the cuff 3 with the shoulder inclination angle θ is defined as the left front shoulder ridge line 6, and a constant adjustment angle from the left shoulder rear base point M. That is, a line connecting the shoulder end angle θ ′ and the notch rear end portion of the sleeve hole portion 3 is defined as the left and right rear shoulder ridge lines 7.

Here, the front shoulder ridge line 6 with a constant inclination angle θ from the left shoulder front base point N and the rear shoulder ridge line 7 with a constant inclination angle θ ′ from the left shoulder rear base point M have an adjustment angle of 23 degrees in a normal standard angle. Actually, it is determined by measuring the wearer's shoulder line with a measuring instrument such as a protractor.

(2) About bust line B, waist line W, hip line H, hem line J The left half body part 1 forms bust line B, waist line W, hip line H, and hem line J at a fixed distance from the upper edge. ing.

The bust line B is from the bust point C located below the back base point O 'of the wearer's original back center line 101' by a length obtained by multiplying 1 / 2P of the chest circumference by about 0.45. It is shown as a space on the horizontal line (O′˜C = P × 0.45).
Here, 1 / 2P of the chest circumference is a value obtained by adding (6 cm ± 2) cm to 1 / 2P ′ of the actually measured chest circumference (P = P′cm ± (6 cm ± 2)).
The vertical length of O ′ to C is the height K.

Actually, in order to provide a width y1 on the line of the height K from O ′ to C, the back base point O ′ is set at a point obtained by multiplying 1/2 P of the chest circumference by about 0.15 and about 0.1. The width is increased from the back center line 101 (O to O ′ = P × 0.15 × 0.1).

Similarly, a clearance y2 of 2 cm is formed from the bust point C of the bust line B.
From C ′ (bust clearance point), which is a clearance y1 from the bust point C of the bust line B, to a point of a length obtained by multiplying 1 / 2P of the chest circumference by about 0.38, that is, after the cuff 3 A point reaching the edge is defined as a back width point E (C′˜E = P × about 0.38).

The lateral width of C ′ to E is the back width portion b1.
From the back width point E of the rear edge position of the sleeve hole portion 3 in the bust line B to the point of the length obtained by multiplying 1/2 P of the chest circumference by about 0.25, that is, the front edge of the sleeve hole portion 3. The point is the side width point D, and the lateral width of D to E is the side width part b2.

Note that E to D include the width (5 mm) of the seam allowance y4 at the joint between the front body and the back body, and the width (15 mm) of the side darts y3 below the sleeve 3 in the front body (E to D = P × 0.25 + 20 mm).

The button position of the front edge of the front body a of the back jacket body 100 is the button point F, and the length obtained by multiplying 1 / 2P of the chest circumference by about 0.37 becomes a width of D to F. The width is b3 (D to F = P × about 0.37).
In the bust line B, a point having a length obtained by multiplying the length of D to F by about 0.56 in the middle of D to F is defined as a vertical point g, and the upper end of the vertical line G of the vertical point g is the left shoulder front base point N. .

The waist line W is an intermediate point between the bust line B and the hip line H, that is, a horizontal line of the waist point I of (B to H) × 1/2. The hip line H is a horizontal line at the hip Q point having a length obtained by multiplying the length from the back base point O ′ to the hem line J by about 0.184.

In addition, y5 is a front dart which shows the clearance below a heel in the figure.
R represents a breast pocket.
Reference numeral 5 ′ denotes a neck collar portion that is continuously provided and stitched to the upper end portion of the collar portion 5, and is continuously stitched to the upper end portion (5 ″) of the back width portion b 1 other than the front and rear

shoulder ridge lines

6 and 7.

Further, the hem line J has a hem line J1 of the front body that is about 1.5 cm downward, and the hem line J appears to be horizontal as a whole when worn, so that the overall appearance of the back is good.
When sewing the left and right

half body parts

1 and 2 to produce the broad prototype X, whether it is configured to fit the wearer's body shape as desired or relaxed is determined by the value of the length P of the chest circumference adjust.

That is, in the above embodiment, P = P ′ + (6 ± 2) has been described. However, the adjustment can be made in the range of (P = P ′ + 4) to (P = P ′ + 9), and P is like this Is adjusted, the numerical values and positions of O to C, O to O ′, C ′ to E, E to D, D to F, M, and N related to P change.

The detailed description above relates to each line of the left half part 1, but the same applies to the right half part 2 and is formed substantially symmetrical (see FIG. 2).

(3) Identification of the back base point O ′ When the position of the back base point O ′ is made to correspond to the skeleton of the human body, the point at the center of the boundary between the seventh cervical vertebra and the first thoracic vertebra is taken as the position of the back upper end O.

The back base point O ′ is made to correspond to the above human skeleton point, the shoulder angle is measured around this point, and the left and right shoulder rear base points M and M and the left and right shoulder front base points N and N of the embodiment are determined and left and right. By creating the half-

body parts

1 and 2, it is possible to create a prototype that fits the body shape of each person who wears the suit and feels the least burden.

Note that the seventh cervical vertebra is one of seven vertebrae, which can be confirmed by a long spinous process protruding backward with a tactile sensation. Below the spinous process is a spinous process of the first thoracic vertebra.

The upper spinous process (7th cervical vertebra) moves with the movement of the neck, but the lower spinous process (1st thoracic vertebra) does not move.

Thus, by moving the cervical part, the moving spinous process and the non-moving spinous process can be confirmed with fingers, and the position of the seventh cervical vertebra and the position of the first thoracic vertebra can be specified from outside the human body.
Here, instead of using the back upper end O at the upper end of the back center line 101, the wearer wears the back because the wearer's original back center line 101 'is the base point O' of all dimensions. In this case, since the back portion has a left and right curved surface, it is necessary to take a clear portion for forming the curved surface. Therefore, the wearer's original back base point O ′ is determined in consideration of the clear portion. The length between the back upper end O and the back base point O ′ is L1 × 0.1 (1/10).

(4) Dimension Table In order to actually create the left half part 1, first, measurement of the dimensions of the wearer's body shape is started.
FIG. 7 shows a dimension table 10 for entering measurement dimensions, and the following columns are provided. That is,
Measurement date and time column 11, wearer's name column 12, body type column 13 describing the distinction and dimensions of the body and the body,
A column 14 for entering the shoulder inclination angle from the left and right shoulder front base point N, a column 15 for entering the shoulder inclination angle from the left and right shoulder rear base point M,
A column 16 for entering an average angle obtained by multiplying the sum of the tilt angle from the left and right shoulder front base point N and the tilt angle from the left and right shoulder rear base point M by 1/2;
In order to specify the left and right shoulder base N, the N point dimension column 17 for entering a number obtained by multiplying the length L of (F to D) and (0.56 ± 0.05),
To specify the left and right shoulder rear base point M, enter the number L1 obtained by multiplying 1/2 of the chest circumference length P by (0.177 ± 0.005) and the number L2 obtained by multiplying L1 by 1/4. M point dimension column 18,
A height dimension column 19 for entering the length from the back base point O ′ to C located at the lower side by a length obtained by multiplying 1 / 2P of the length of the chest circumference by 0.45,
Chest circumference dimension column 20 for entering a numerical value obtained by adding a margin dimension as a space to the actual chest circumference P ′,
A chest width column 21 for entering the dimensions of the chest width portion b3 in the bust line B actually measured;
Side width column 22 for entering the dimensions of side width part b2 in bust line B,
A back width column 23 for entering the dimensions of the back width portion b1 in the bust line B;
Waist dimension column 24 for entering dimensions in the waist line W,
Waist width column 25 for entering the width dimension of the front body a in the waist line W,
Waist rear width column 26 for entering the width dimension of the back body in the waistline W,
Hip front width column 27 for entering the actual measurement in the hip line H,
Front hip width column 28 for entering the width of the front body a in the hip line H,
Hip rear width column 29 for entering the width of the back body in the hip line H
Etc. are provided in the dimension table 10.

(5) Identification of right and left shoulder front and rear base points N and M (a) By measuring the wearer's body, the left and right shoulder rear base points M and the left and right shoulder front base points N are used as the basis for various dimensions of the suit that are most comfortable for the wearer. In order to set, two types of instruments, a base point setting measure 30 and a height measurement measure 40 described below, are prepared.

(B) The base point setting measure 30 is composed of a loop-like string body 31 as shown in FIG. 9, and the center-point of the loop-like string body 31 obtained by virtually dividing the loop-like string body 31 is for the base point. The other point obtained by interposing the weight 32 and virtually dividing the string 31 into two equal parts, that is, a point located on the opposite side of the weight 32 is set as a reference point KP. Moreover, in the loop-shaped string 31 Is a display scale 33 indicating a length such as mm or cm on the left and right with respect to one point at the center, that is, the reference point KP.

As shown in FIG. 10, the height measuring measure 40 includes a height weight 42 connected to one end of a long string body 41, and a long string body to indicate the length from the bottom surface of the weight 42. Reference numeral 41 denotes a height display scale 43 indicating a length such as mm or cm.
As will be described later, the height weight 42 causes the tension of the long string body 41 when measuring the length from the ground surface to the left and right shoulder front and rear points N and M, and acquires an accurate length dimension. It serves the same purpose as a falling weight used for civil engineering surveying.

The base point setting measure 30 and the height measurement measure 40 configured as described above are used for the left and right shoulder rear base points M and the left and right shoulder front base points N that are used as shown in FIGS. The position is determined, and the pattern U at the correct position of the left and right shoulder rear base points M and the left and right shoulder front base points N is created.

(C) First, the loop-shaped base point setting measure 30 is suspended from the wearer's neck so that the base point weight 32 is located at the chest.
This state is a state in which the loop-shaped string 31 is suspended from the neck to the chest, so to speak, the left and

right lines

34, 34 of the loop-shaped string 31 trace the left and right lines of the suitcase. The string 31 locus is formed.
In this state, the back base point GP of the string body 31 coincides with the position of the wearer's back base point O ′, that is, the position of the border center of the seventh cervical vertebra and the first thoracic vertebra.

(D) Next, in the string 31 suspended from the neck, from the back base point GP located at the back base point O ′ toward the left side (here, for producing the left body part 1), a temporary reference dimension of 9 cm. The left and right shoulder rear base points M and the left and right shoulder front base points N are assumed in the wearer's physique (naturally, the left and right shoulder rear base points M and the left and right shoulder front base points N are tentatively determined as one point that coincides with each other). . The temporary reference dimension of 9 cm is an average wearer's temporary dimension.

The length from the ground surface (GL) to the temporary left and right shoulder rear base point M and the temporary left and right shoulder front base point N is measured by the height measuring measure 40. The length α to the base point M is measured on the wearer's back side (rear side), and the length β from the ground surface (GL) to the left and right shoulder front base point N is on the wearer's chest side (front side). taking measurement.

Here, when the wearer is in a forward-bending body shape (so-called stooped shape), GL to M> GL to N. If GL to M = α and GL to N = β, the difference between α and β is the factor of correction of the position of the temporary left and right shoulder base M and the temporary left and right shoulder base N assumed to be the temporary standard size of 9 cm. Will be used.

(E) Therefore, in order to set the temporary position of the wearer's left and right shoulder rear base point M on the pattern U, the back base point O of the wearer's original back center line 101 'as described in paragraph [0023]. The length L1 multiplied by 1 / 2P of the length of the chest circumference is calculated from ', and it moves forward by that amount, and further vertically upward by a length L2 of about 1/4 of the moving length from the moving point m. The point is set as a temporary left and right shoulder rear base point M.

That is, by measuring 1/2 P of the length of the chest circumference of the wearer, the temporary position of the left and right shoulder rear base point M is inevitably specified on the temporary pattern, and on the temporary pattern based on this The length rcm of the neck line WN of the curved line between the back base point O ′ and the left and right shoulder back base points M (in other words, the correct movement to the left from the reference point KP in the base point setting measure 30 suspended from the wearer's neck) (Length to position) is calculated. The position of the length rcm of the neck line WN is the positions of the right and left shoulder rear base points M and the right and left shoulder front base points N that are actually measured for the wearer.

What is important here is that the position of the temporary reference dimension 9 cm in the loop-shaped string 31 is the left shoulder front and rear base points N and M, and this is the position of the temporary left shoulder front and rear base points N and M in the temporary pattern U. It is.

That is, in the temporary pattern U, the position of the left shoulder rear base point M is, as described in paragraph 0023, from the back base point O ′ to 1/2 P of the actually measured wearer's chest circumference (0.177 ± Measured from the point moved forward by the length L1 multiplied by 0.005) and further vertically moved from the moving point m by a length L2 that is about 1/4 of the moving length, or from the circumference of the neck. Are temporarily determined as specified points. When the curve connecting the back base point O ′ and the left shoulder back base point M is the neck line WN, the neck line WN of the curved line is the collar line of the string 31 of the base point setting measure 30 suspended from the neck. For the time being, the position of the temporary base dimension 9 cm of the neck line WN from the back base point O ′ is set as the position of the temporary left shoulder rear base point M on the wearer's left shoulder.

On the other hand, the length rcm of the neck line WN in the pattern U is the objective length derived from the above-mentioned calculation (calculation of paragraph [0023]) from the actual measurement of the chest circumference of the wearer. It can be said that the length is from the back base point O ′ to the original correct left shoulder rear base point M in the loop-shaped string body 31.

However, since the initial temporary left shoulder base M is the position of the temporary reference dimension 9 cm of the string 31, it is not the position of the wearer's original correct left shoulder rear base M.

Therefore, in order to determine the position of the original correct left shoulder rear base point M on the pattern U, the length is measured from the ground surface (GL) on the wearer's back side and chest side at the temporary left shoulder rear base point M position. Then, the difference (difference between α and β) is obtained, and the difference between α and β is added to the position correction of the temporary left shoulder front base point M.

That is, if the difference between the temporary reference dimension 9 cm and the length of the neck line WN (LX), and the length of the neck line WN is 8.5 cm, 9 cm−8.5 cm = 0.5 cm is obtained.

Then, this 0.5 cm difference (LX) is used as an increase / decrease factor of α and β measured at the position of the temporary left shoulder rear base point M.

Since α is a measured value on the back side, 0.5 cm LX is added to α, and 0.5 cm LX is subtracted from β, so that (α−β) is The correct positions of the left shoulder front and rear base points M and the left shoulder front base point N based on the actual size of the original wearer can be determined.

Therefore, in the pattern U, the ground height (α) of the temporary left shoulder rear base point M is corrected, and the upper part of the back body is extended upward or shortened downward due to the body shape. In addition, a correction is made to the ground height (α) of the temporary left shoulder base N, and the upper part of the front body i is expanded and contracted upward and downward by the correction amount. Therefore, for the first time, the correct left and right shoulder bases N and M are specified.

If the correct left shoulder rear base point M is specified, the position of the left shoulder front base point N is specified from the front body front edge 4 to the side width point D of the front edge of the cuff 3 as described in paragraph [0024]. The vertical line G of the vertical point g at the position (0.56 ± 0.05) of the length L3 (F to D) to reach and the absolute horizontal line v from the left shoulder rear base point M that has already been identified Identified by intersection.

(6) Other methods for specifying correct left shoulder front and back base points N and M The procedure for determining the correct position of the left shoulder front and rear base points N and M based on the actual measurement values has been described above, but there are other simplified methods.
That is, as described in paragraph [0023], since the temporary position of the left shoulder rear base point M is specified by measuring the chest circumference in the pattern U, the curved neck line connecting the back base point O ′ and the left shoulder rear base point M is determined. The length rcm of WN is also specified. Once the length rcm of the neck line WN is objectively determined, the base point setting measure 30 is then suspended from the neck, and if the position of the length rcm of the left neck line WN is taken from the reference point KP, this is necessarily worn. This is the position of the correct left shoulder rear base point M (N) on the person's body.

In order to reflect the correct position of the left shoulder rear base point M on the pattern U, the height measurement measure 40 measures the length of the back side and the chest side from the ground surface (GL), and α and β are calculated. put out.
Next, as shown in FIG. 1, in the pattern U, the trace t1 of the curved length of the curved neck line WN from the back base point O ′ and the actually measured scale length from the ground surface (GL) to the left shoulder rear base point M. Let the intersection with the locus t2 be the correct position of the left shoulder rear base point M in the pattern U.

Since this simplified procedure can objectively determine the position of the wearer's back base point O ′, the position calculation method of the left shoulder rear base point M based on the inventor's many tailoring results (paragraph number [0023] ], The temporary left shoulder rear base point M is determined, and further, the position information of the correct left shoulder rear base point M on the wearer's original body is added to the numerical values of α and β measured by the base point setting measure 30. Then, the position of the calculated temporary left shoulder back base point M calculated from the chest circumference and displayed on the pattern U is corrected, and the correct left shoulder rear base point M is specified on the pattern U.

(7) What has been described above relates to the procedure for determining the right and left shoulder front and rear base points N and M for the front half of the left half and the back half of the body. As for the right shoulder front and rear base points N and M, the correct position can be determined.
As described above, the positions of the left and right shoulder front and rear base points N and M around the objective back base point O ′ position are calculated, and the pattern U that fits the wearer most easily and can be moved based on the calculated positions.

As a whole, the left and right shoulder front and rear base points N and M; N and M are determined to be optimal positions that match various body shapes, such as body, flexion, shoulder, and shoulder. It is possible to balance the balance between the right and left of the center ("swing mode"), and it is possible to provide a smart and comfortable suit for the appearance and wearer's activities.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 100 Outerwear body 101 Back center line 101 'Original back center line 1 Left half body part 2 Right half body part 3 Sleeve hole part 35 Notch front end part 36 Notch rear end part 4 Front body front edge part 5 Hip part 6 Front shoulder ridgeline 7 Rear shoulder ridge line 10 Dimensional table U Pattern b1 Back width b2 Side width b3 Chest width N, N Left and right shoulder front base M, M Left and right shoulder rear base P 1/2 of chest length
O Back top O 'Back base A A Wide prototype m Moving point g Vertical point r Curve length GL Ground surface θ Front tilt angle θ' Rear tilt angle v Absolute horizontal line S Notch 30 Base point setting measure 31 Loop string 32 Weight KP Reference point 33 Display scale GP Back base point 40 Height measurement measure 41 Long string 42 Weight for weight 43 Display scale WN Neck line α Length from ground surface GL to left and right shoulder back base point M From ground surface GL Length to left and right shoulder base N

Claims

Left and right body parts formed by dividing the outer jacket body into left and right parts from the back center line of the back part, and left and right half sleeve holes formed by cutting out the upper part of the center upper part of the left and right body parts. And a buttock formed on the front edge of the left body part main body, a chest width part in front of the sleeve hole part, a side width part below the sleeve hole part, and a back width part behind the sleeve hole part. The back should be the upper end of the wearer's original back center line in the model of the spine that is formed by joining and sewing the partially cut ends of the left and right cuffs and the back sewing lines of the left and right body parts. From the base point, move forward by a length calculated by applying a pre-defined correction formula to the length of the chest circumference or the length around the neck, and from the moved point, it is only about 1/4 of the movement length From the front edge of the front body, the point specified by moving vertically upward is the temporary left and right shoulder base The point specified by the intersection of the vertical line approximately 0.5 to 0.6 times the length leading to the front edge of the hole and the absolute horizontal line from the left and right shoulder rear base point is the front left and right shoulder base, and the back body Depending on the length of the curved neck line between the back base point of the back and the left and right shoulder front and back base points, the length from the left and right shoulder front and rear base points to the ground surface passing through the back of the wearer's body and the chest side Correct the length of the top and bottom of each shoulder to correct the correct left and right shoulder front and back base positions, and connect the line connecting the front end of the cuff with the fixed front angle to the front and left shoulders with a fixed adjustment angle. By connecting the front shoulder ridge line and the back shoulder ridge line as a ridge line, the line connecting the notched rear end of the cuff with the respective shoulder inclination angle from the corrected left and right shoulder rear base point as the left and right rear shoulder ridge lines The present invention provides a wide prototype that is characterized by being constructed.
The correction formula applied to the length of the chest circumference from the center line of the back when specifying the left and right shoulder rear base points according to claim 1 is about 1/2 of the chest circumference (0.15 to. 20) characterized by multiplying by 20).
In claim 1, the correction formula to be applied to the length around the neck from the back center line when specifying the length around the neck is (10 to 15) added to the length around the neck, A broad-type mold characterized by dividing the total by (5-7).