CN112237311A - Pattern making method for suit sleeves - Google Patents
Pattern making method for suit sleeves Download PDFInfo
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- CN112237311A CN112237311A CN202011016665.3A CN202011016665A CN112237311A CN 112237311 A CN112237311 A CN 112237311A CN 202011016665 A CN202011016665 A CN 202011016665A CN 112237311 A CN112237311 A CN 112237311A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
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Abstract
The application relates to a plate making method for suit sleeves, which comprises the following steps: s100, measuring the size, drawing a human body on a board, and measuring various data on the arm of the human body by adopting a variable sleeve attaching angle method; s200, setting trimming amount, namely, taking the big cuff of the suit sleeve as a reference part to extend outwards to set an extending end which is used as the trimmable amount of the suit sleeve; s300, setting a deviation line and a pre-sewing line, and calibrating the pre-sewing line on the extension end; s400, fixing plate sewing, aligning a pre-sewing line to the sleeve hole, and sewing the sleeve and the clothes body of the suit according to the trend of the pre-sewing line; s500, trimming to obtain a sample, and cutting the end part of the extending end to the redundant fabric at the position of the pre-sewing line; and (5) taking out and delivering after cutting. The suit has the advantages that the man-made sewing deviation in the suit sleeve and suit body sewing process is reduced, and the effects of fit and comfort after the suit is worn by people are improved.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the field of garment design and production, in particular to a plate making method for sleeves of western-style clothes.
Background
At present, the suit is formal suit type clothes in a formal sense, and compared with common clothes, the suit has the characteristics of stiff and smooth version and fit in cutting. In the actual tailoring and manufacturing of the suit, the structural design of the suit depends on the actual body type and size of a three-dimensional human body, and the suit which fits and is comfortable to wear needs to reach the standard that the size value is matched with the contour parameter of the human body when being tailored.
In the actual wearing experience of the suit, the cutting structure of the sleeve of the suit is the most important factor influencing the comfort of people wearing the suit, so that the accurate and fit plate making method of the sleeve of the suit directly determines whether the cutting of the suit is successful or not.
Chinese patent publication No. CN102613761A discloses a method for making a plate of a suit sleeve, which comprises the steps of: 1. the net chest circumference size of the human body is measured. 2. The dimensions of one week including the arm were measured. 3. The front and rear width dimensions of the human body are measured. 4. And (4) making plan views of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece, and determining the depth and the width of the sleeve hole. 5. The front shoulder point and the back shoulder point are crossed to determine the middle point of the sleeve top of the big sleeve. 6. The front bottom of the sleeve top of the big sleeve is determined by taking the vertical line of the chest width as the axis. 7. The base stitches of the large sleeve are drawn. 8. And making a small sleeve bottom suture. 9. Making sleeve mountain arc lines of the small sleeves and outer seam arc lines of the large sleeves and the small sleeves. 10. Determining the front and back positions of the sleeves according to the position of the opening of the front cut piece, drawing the sleeve cuts, and finally completely supplementing the sleeves to form the garment.
In view of the above-mentioned related arts, the inventors believe that when there is a suit sleeve plate making, workers often determine the outer peripheral size of a large sleeve according to a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, and a sleeve hole, and then plate-make the suit sleeve according to the human arm length and the outer peripheral size and assemble the suit sleeve with the sleeve hole; the large sleeves of the suit have artificial sewing deviation when being assembled with the sleeve holes, so that the sleeve fertilizer at each position of the sleeves of the suit is easy to generate corresponding deviation with the actual peripheral size of the arms of a human body, the suit is not fit after people wear the suit, and the comfort of the people wear the suit is greatly reduced.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problem of overlarge artificial deviation when the sleeves of the suit are sewn with the clothes body, the application provides a plate making method for the sleeves of the suit.
The plate making method for the suit sleeves adopts the following technical scheme:
a method for making a plate for a sleeve of a western-style suit, comprising the steps of:
s100, measuring dimensions, drawing on a board, measuring the lengths and the peripheral dimensions of the upper half of the human body and the positions of the arms, and measuring all data on the arms of the human body by adopting a variable sleeve-attaching angle method; recording all data and drawing the plane figures of the clothes body and the sleeves of the suit by using the board for standby;
s200, setting trimming amount, taking various measured data from wrist points to elbow points of the human arms as rated values, and taking various measured data from elbow points to shoulder points of the human arms as reference gradient values; according to the reference gradient, a large cuff of the suit sleeve is used as a reference part to extend outwards, the extending end is used as a trimmable amount of the suit sleeve, and the board is drawn for standby;
s300, making a deviation line and a pre-sewing line, lifting the human arm on the side, changing the angle to retest the length from the wrist point to the shoulder point of the human arm, recording the maximum value and the minimum value, and calculating the intermediate value of the maximum value and the minimum value; calibrating a maximum deviation line and a minimum deviation line on the western-style clothes sleeve drawn on the board, and calibrating a pre-sewing line between the maximum deviation line and the minimum deviation line for later use;
s400, fixing a plate and sewing, selecting fabric, cutting the sleeve and the body of the suit according to the planar graph drawn by the plate, and marking a maximum deviation line, a minimum deviation line and a pre-sewing line on the front side and the back side of the sleeve of the suit; aligning and sewing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece of a garment body, reserving a collar, a sleeve hole and a bottom sleeve joint, turning over the sleeves of the suit along the central axis of the sleeves of the suit, and sewing after two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are aligned; aligning the pre-sewing line to the sleeve holes, and sewing the sleeves and the clothes body of the suit according to the trend of the pre-sewing line;
s500, trimming to obtain a sample, folding the sleeves of the suit to expose the extending ends of the sleeves of the suit, and cutting the end parts of the extending ends to the redundant fabric at the pre-sewing line; and (5) taking out and delivering after cutting.
By adopting the technical scheme, the cutting amount can be made, the extending end for sewing is arranged at the large cuff of the suit sleeve, so that the accuracy of measuring various data of the suit sleeve is improved, and the fault-tolerant rate of people when sewing the suit sleeve and the suit body is improved; the pre-sewing thread is marked on the extending end, so that when the large cuff of the suit sleeve is focused and sewn with the cuff of the suit body, the sewing precision of the suit sleeve and the suit body is improved by aligning the pre-sewing thread with the trend of the cuff, further the deviation generated in the artificial sewing process is reduced, the fitness of the formed suit and the human body is ensured, and the comfort level of people wearing the suit is improved.
Preferably, in step S100, the measurement data of the upper half of the human body includes neck circumference, shoulder width, chest circumference, middle waist and length; the measurement data of the human arm includes a forearm length, an outer circumference of a wrist, an outer circumference of the forearm length, and an outer circumference of a shoulder.
By adopting the technical scheme, the data such as neck circumference, shoulder width, chest circumference, middle waist, body length and the like are accurately measured to ensure the fit between the clothes body and the human body, and the small arm length and the large arm length are separately measured to improve the sleeve length measuring accuracy of the sleeves of the western-style clothes; the measurement of the outer circumference of the wrist and the outer circumference of the forearm can ensure the fitness and comfort of the forearm part when people wear the sleeves of the suit.
Preferably, in step S100, the method for measuring the variable sleeve angle method includes: standing the body straight, enabling the arms of the human body to be lifted laterally, enabling the arms and the human body to form a vertical included angle, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; allowing the arms of the human body to droop freely, enabling the palms to be attached to the thighs, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; making an acute angle between the arms of the human body and the human body, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; integrating data, determining the maximum value and the minimum value of each item of data, calculating an average value, and finally taking the average value as final data measured by the human arm.
By adopting the technical scheme, the method of measuring and averaging for multiple times is adopted when various data of the arm are measured by the variable sleeve angle stitching method, so that the phenomenon that the error is generated in single measurement and the error is not easy to find is effectively reduced, and the phenomenon that the suit is not fit with the human body or the comfort degree is not enough after the suit is formed is further effectively reduced.
Preferably, in the step S300, the angle of the arm of the human body which is lifted by the side is controlled to be between 0 to 180 °.
By adopting the technical scheme, the side lifting angle of 0-180 degrees can cover the angle which is stretched when most activities are carried out after people wear the suit, the expansion and the scaling amplitude of the human body after wearing the suit are effectively considered, then enough scaling amount is given to the size specification, and the fit and the comfort degree of the people wearing the suit are further ensured.
Preferably, in the step S300, when the pre-sewing thread is marked on the sleeve body of the suit, the extension end may be eliminated when the fabric selected for the sleeve of the suit is cut in the step S400.
By adopting the technical scheme, when the pre-sewing line needs to be marked on the suit sleeves, the pre-sewing line can indicate that the total sleeve length of the suit sleeves determined before is matched with the actual length of the arms of a human body, and a certain amount of shrinkage is reserved, so that the setting steps of the extending ends of the suit sleeves can be reduced, and the speed and the efficiency of printing the suit are improved.
Preferably, in the step S400, when the pre-sewing thread is marked on the sleeve of the suit, the direction of the pre-sewing thread is matched with the outer circumference of the sleeve hole of the suit body, that is, the direction of the pre-sewing thread is in a certain radian.
By adopting the technical scheme, when the trend of the pre-sewing thread is matched with the trend of the sleeve cave of the clothes body, the adaptability of the corresponding sewing between the sleeves of the western-style clothes and the sleeve cave of the clothes body can be greatly improved, so that the accuracy and the speed of sewing the sleeves of the western-style clothes and the clothes body are effectively improved, and the fitness and the comfort degree of people wearing the western-style clothes are effectively guaranteed.
Preferably, in the step S400, when the sleeves of the suit are folded along the central line thereof, it is first required to ensure that two wrist points at two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are symmetrical and two shoulder points are symmetrical and sutured, then two sleeve elbow points at two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are symmetrical and sutured, finally, the side edges between the wrist points and the sleeve elbow points are aligned and sutured, and the side edges between the sleeve elbow points and the shoulder points are aligned and sutured.
By adopting the technical scheme, the inner diameter size between the wrist point and the sleeve elbow point is smaller than that between the sleeve elbow point and the shoulder end point, and the large-size part is easier to generate deviation to the small-size part when being sutured in advance, and the deviation is easier to be obviously perceived by a human body; therefore, the wrist points and the sleeve elbow points are aligned and sewn in advance, so that the adaptation degree of the forearm parts of the suit sleeves and the human body forearm is effectively guaranteed, meanwhile, the sewing deviation of the forearm parts generated when the sleeve elbow points and the shoulder end points are aligned and sewn is effectively reduced, the adaptation of the whole suit sleeves and the human body arm after the suit sleeves are formed is further effectively guaranteed, and the comfort degree of the human body when the suit is worn is further improved.
Preferably, in the step S500, when cutting the redundant extension end, a plurality of cutting openings may be cut between the end portion of the extension end and the pre-sewing line, and then the redundant fabric between two adjacent cutting openings is cut to complete cutting of the redundant extension end.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, cut out the mouth and be convenient for people to cut out the extension end between two adjacent cutting openings fast to the short advantage of distance appears cutting out the phenomenon of deviation when reducing people and tailor the extension end between the adjacent cutting opening of accessible, and then has greatly improved people and cut out speed and the precision of extending the end.
In summary, the present application includes at least one of the following beneficial technical effects:
1. the trimming amount is set to form an extension end at the large cuff of the suit sleeve, and then the pre-sewing line is arranged on the extension end, so that the fitting degree and the accuracy of the suit sleeve and the suit body in the symmetrical sewing process are improved, the artificial sewing deviation in the sewing process of the suit sleeve and the suit body is effectively reduced, and the fitting property and the comfort degree of people wearing the suit are improved;
2. the small arm part from the wrist point to the sleeve elbow point is sewn firstly, so that the fit degree of the small arm part of the suit sleeve and the small arm of a human body is guaranteed, the deviation influence on the small arm part caused by the fact that the large arm part from the sleeve elbow point to the shoulder end point is sewn in advance is effectively reduced, the printing forming precision of the suit sleeve is further guaranteed in the process, and the fit and comfort degree of people wearing the suit are further guaranteed.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic plate making process of a plate making method for a suit sleeve according to an embodiment of the present application.
Detailed Description
The present application is described in further detail below with reference to fig. 1.
The embodiment of the application discloses a plate making method for suit sleeves. Referring to fig. 1, the method includes the following steps:
and S100, measuring the size, and measuring various data of the upper half body and the arms of the human body by using a tape measure. Wherein, the data of the upper half of the human body to be measured comprise neck circumference, shoulder width, chest circumference, middle waist and length. The neck circumference corresponds to the collar of the clothes body, the length of the measuring tape which is obtained by surrounding the neck for one circle is the neck circumference by taking the thinnest part of the neck below the laryngeal prominence of the human body as the starting point during measurement, and the length is recorded on paper for standby.
The shoulder width corresponds to the width of the top of the clothes body, when in measurement, a tape is tightly attached to the back shoulder of the human body, the distance from the outermost edge of one side of the shoulder to the other side of the shoulder is the shoulder width, and the shoulder width is recorded on paper for standby. The chest circumference corresponds to the largest inner diameter size of the clothes body, when in measurement, the length of the tape which surrounds the body for one circle is the chest circumference by taking the tape from the highest position of the chest as a starting point, and the length is recorded on paper for standby. The middle waist corresponds to the minimum inner diameter size of the clothes body, when in measurement, the length obtained by taking the tape from the thinnest part of the waist as the starting point and surrounding the tape for one circle around the body is the middle waist, and the length is recorded on paper for standby. The length of the body corresponds to the length of the clothes body, when measuring, the tape is taken as the starting point from the shoulder line intersection, the tape is pulled to the tiger mouth of the palm as the end point, the distance between the two is the length of the body, and the length is recorded on paper for standby.
The measurement data of the human arm comprises a small arm length, a large arm length, a wrist outer circumference, a small arm outer circumference, a large arm outer circumference and a shoulder outer circumference, wherein the small arm length is increased to correspond to the sleeve length of the suit sleeve, and in the actual cutting, the sleeve length of the suit sleeve is increased by a certain size to reduce the decrement caused by sewing. When measuring, the measuring tape is positioned at the wrist point of the arm of the human body as the starting point, and then the measuring tape is pulled to the elbow point of the sleeve as the terminal point, and the length between the two points is the small arm length. The length between the measuring tape and the shoulder end point is the large arm length.
The outer circumference of the wrist corresponds to the inner diameter of the small cuff port of the suit sleeve, and the length obtained by surrounding the wrist of a human body by a measuring tape is the outer circumference of the wrist during measurement. The outer circumference of the shoulder part corresponds to the inner diameter of the big cuff port of the suit sleeve, and simultaneously corresponds to the inner diameter of the sleeve hole of the suit body. When measuring, the length obtained by surrounding the root of the big arm of the human body with a tape for one circle is the external circumference of the shoulder.
The outer circumference of the forearm corresponds to the largest inner diameter size of the suit sleeve between the wrist point and the elbow point, and when measuring, the measuring tape is positioned at the highest position between the wrist point and the elbow point, and the length obtained by surrounding the measuring tape around the forearm is the outer circumference of the forearm. The outer circumference of the big arm corresponds to the largest inner diameter size of the sleeve of the suit between the elbow point and the shoulder end point, when measuring, a measuring tape is positioned at the highest position between the elbow point and the shoulder end point, the length obtained by surrounding the measuring tape for one circle with the big arm is the outer circumference of the big arm, and the number of all items on the arm is measured and recorded on paper for standby.
When measuring various data of human arms, a variable sleeve angle method is adopted for measurement. The method for measuring the variable sleeve angle method comprises the following steps: the body of a person is stood upright, and data such as the forearm length, the wrist outer circumference, the forearm outer circumference, and the shoulder outer circumference are measured in several times by adjusting the angle between the arm and the body of the person.
In this embodiment, the angle between the arm and the body of the person measured by the variable sleeve angle method needs to be controlled to be 0-90 °, and the selected angles of the angle may be 0 °, 22.5 °, 45 °, 67.5 ° and 90 °. When the angle is 90 degrees, the arm of the human body is held in a vertical position with the arm perpendicular to the human body, and the data of the forearm length, the wrist outer circumference, the forearm outer circumference, and the shoulder outer circumference are measured in this position.
When the angle is selected to be 0 °, the arm of the human body is allowed to freely hang down and the palm is fitted to the thigh, and data such as the forearm length, the outer circumference of the wrist, the outer circumference of the forearm, and the outer circumference of the shoulder are measured again in this state.
When the angle is 45 degrees, the arm of the human body is tilted downward and kept at the angle of 45 degrees with respect to the body, and data such as the forearm length, the outer circumference of the wrist, the outer circumference of the forearm, and the outer circumference of the shoulder are measured again in this state.
At least 3 angles are selected when the variable sleeve angle method is used for measurement, and the measured arm data at each angle needs to be compared with the maximum value and the minimum value. When the difference between the maximum value and the minimum value is less than 1cm, the average value of all data under the same item is calculated and the average value is taken as the final size. When the difference between the maximum value and the minimum value is greater than 1cm, the item is retested. And if the retest result is still that the difference value between the maximum value and the minimum value is larger than 1cm, calculating and calculating the average value of all data under the same project, and taking the intermediate value between the average value and the maximum value as the final size.
And drawing, in the embodiment, drawing the final data of the determined upper half body and arms of the human body on sample paper, drawing a sample style by a pencil, wherein the sample style can be cut to be used as a three-dimensional sample and then be compared with the human body. In the actual operation, the surface material can be directly painted and cut by chalk, so that the printing time is shortened.
S200, setting a trimming amount, wherein the part with the increased trimming amount is positioned at the large sleeve opening of the suit sleeve, so that the fault tolerance rate of sewing the large sleeve of the suit sleeve with the sleeve hole of the suit body is improved, and the phenomenon of overlarge deviation of the sewn suit sleeve with the suit body is reduced.
The trimming amount is specified by including a rated value and a reference gradient, wherein the rated value is positioned in each item of data between the wrist point and the elbow point of the small arm part, namely the arm of the human body. The reference gradient is located in the large arm part of the human arm, namely, data between the elbow point and the shoulder point of the human arm. During measurement, the position of measuring the outer circumference of the forearm is taken as a starting point and recorded as a maximum value, the outer circumference of the forearm is extended along the length direction of the forearm and close to one end of the shoulder and is measured for multiple times, and the subsequent recorded outer circumference of the forearm is compared to analogize the trimmable amount of the suit sleeve.
In this embodiment, as an example of the circumference of the forearm being 27cm, the biceps brachii muscle on the forearm tends to be convex, and the portion of the forearm near the shoulder tends to increase gradually, so that the circumference of the forearm tends to increase from the position where the circumference is measured to the end of the forearm. The peripheral length of the forearm was measured with a tape measure extending along the length of the arm and near the shoulder, and found to be 26cm, 29cm and 33cm in that order. Therefore, it can be determined that when the outer circumference of the large arm is 27cm, the reference gradient is 3 and the tolerance is 1, and the inner diameter of the extension end is 38 cm. At this time, the inner diameter of the large cuff of the board-drawn western-style clothes sleeve is 33cm and the inner diameter of the board-drawn extended end is 38cm, using the measurement point of the outer peripheral dimension of the large arm as a fixed point.
S300, making a deviation line and a pre-sewing line, laterally lifting the human arm and changing the angle to retest the length from the wrist point to the shoulder point of the human arm. When the user lifts the body sideways, the included angle between the arms and the body of the human body needs to be controlled to be 0-180 degrees, the selected included angle can be 0 degree, 45 degrees, 90 degrees, 135 degrees and 180 degrees, at least 4 groups of angles are selected during measurement, the maximum value and the minimum value of the length from the wrist point to the shoulder end point under different angles are recorded, and then the middle value of the maximum value and the minimum value is calculated.
The minimum value is marked as a minimum deviation line on the suit sleeve, the maximum value is marked as a maximum deviation line on the suit sleeve, and the median value is marked as a pre-stitched line on the suit sleeve. The minimum deviation line, the maximum deviation line and the pre-sewing line are calibrated on the front side and the back side of the sleeve of the suit at the same time, a pencil is used for calibrating during board drawing, and chalk is used for calibrating on the fabric.
In the calibration process of the minimum deviation line, the maximum deviation line and the pre-sewing line, when the length of the intermediate value is less than or equal to that of the suit sleeve, namely the pre-sewing line can be directly calibrated on the body of the suit sleeve, the extension end of the suit sleeve can be erased from the style and the fabric, and the extension end does not need to be cut.
The minimum deviation line and the maximum deviation line can be calibrated in advance, the pre-sewing line needs to be cut in the style of the sample or the fabric, and the large sleeve trend of the sleeves of the suit is calibrated after being displayed. The direction of the pre-sewing line needs to be matched with the direction of the sleeves of the suit, so that the large arm ports of the sleeves of the suit can be guaranteed to have a gentle transition radian after being sewn with the sleeve holes of the clothes body, and the comfort degree of a human body when the suit is worn can be guaranteed.
S400, fixing the pattern, if the pattern is printed firstly according to the pattern style, cutting the suit sleeve, the front cut piece of the suit body and the rear cut piece of the suit body on the pattern style, then selecting the fabric, and cutting the fabric corresponding to the suit sleeve, the front cut piece of the suit body and the rear cut piece of the suit body. If the pattern is printed on the fabric directly, the sleeves of the suit, the front garment piece of the suit body and the rear garment piece of the suit body can be cut directly. And then calibrating the maximum deviation line, the minimum deviation line and the pre-sewing line again on the front surface and the back surface of the cut suit sleeve.
And sewing, namely sewing the front garment piece and the rear garment piece of the garment body. The front panel side edge of the garment body is aligned with the rear panel side edge and then sewn with a seam. In the sewing process, the reserved collar, the sleeve hole and the bottom socket are paid attention to, and the reserved size is slightly larger than the standard size so as to facilitate subsequent modification.
And sewing the suit sleeves, and turning the suit sleeves along the central axis of the suit sleeves so that the side walls at two ends of the suit sleeves in the length direction are aligned pairwise. And then, firstly, ensuring that two wrists at two sides of the suit sleeve in the width direction are point-symmetrical and two shoulder ends at two sides of the suit sleeve in the width direction are point-symmetrical, and sewing by using a thread. And then the two sleeve elbows on the two sides of the suit sleeve in the width direction are point-symmetrical and are sewed by a thread. And finally, aligning and sewing the side edges between the wrist points and the sleeve elbow points, aligning and sewing the side edges between the sleeve elbow points and the shoulder end points, and aligning and sewing the extending ends of the suit sleeves so that the suit sleeves and the extending ends thereof are sewn into an annular endless cylinder body.
The large sleeves of the suit are aligned with the sleeve holes of the suit body and pushed into the sleeve holes, the pre-sewing lines are aligned with the side edges of the sleeve holes, and the extending ends of the sleeves of the suit are sewn and fixed with the suit body by using the rolling lines along the moving direction of the pre-sewing lines.
S500, trimming, namely turning over the sleeves of the suit and exposing the extension ends of the sleeves of the suit, cutting a plurality of cutting notches from one end of the extension end, which is far away from the sleeves of the suit, by using scissors, and then cutting the extension ends between the adjacent cutting notches by using the scissors so as to cut the extension ends of the sleeves of the suit.
And the tailored suit can be sampled and packaged for delivery.
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present application, and the protection scope of the present application is not limited by the above embodiments, so: all equivalent changes made according to the structure, shape and principle of the present application shall be covered by the protection scope of the present application.
Claims (8)
1. A plate making method for suit sleeves is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps: s100, measuring dimensions, drawing on a board, measuring the lengths and the peripheral dimensions of the upper half of the human body and the positions of the arms, and measuring all data on the arms of the human body by adopting a variable sleeve-attaching angle method; recording all data and drawing the plane figures of the clothes body and the sleeves of the suit by using the board for standby; s200, setting trimming amount, taking various measured data from wrist points to elbow points of the human arms as rated values, and taking various measured data from elbow points to shoulder points of the human arms as reference gradient values; according to the reference gradient, a large cuff of the suit sleeve is used as a reference part to extend outwards, the extending end is used as a trimmable amount of the suit sleeve, and the board is drawn for standby; s300, making a deviation line and a pre-sewing line, lifting the human arm on the side, changing the angle to retest the length from the wrist point to the shoulder point of the human arm, recording the maximum value and the minimum value, and calculating the intermediate value of the maximum value and the minimum value; calibrating a maximum deviation line and a minimum deviation line on the western-style clothes sleeve drawn on the board, and calibrating a pre-sewing line between the maximum deviation line and the minimum deviation line for later use; s400, fixing a plate and sewing, selecting fabric, cutting the sleeve and the body of the suit according to the planar graph drawn by the plate, and marking a maximum deviation line, a minimum deviation line and a pre-sewing line on the front side and the back side of the sleeve of the suit; aligning and sewing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece of a garment body, reserving a collar, a sleeve hole and a bottom sleeve joint, turning over the sleeves of the suit along the central axis of the sleeves of the suit, and sewing after two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are aligned; aligning the pre-sewing line to the sleeve holes, and sewing the sleeves and the clothes body of the suit according to the trend of the pre-sewing line; s500, trimming to obtain a sample, folding the sleeves of the suit to expose the extending ends of the sleeves of the suit, and cutting the end parts of the extending ends to the redundant fabric at the pre-sewing line; and (5) taking out and delivering after cutting.
2. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 1, wherein: in step S100, the measurement data of the upper half of the human body includes neck circumference, shoulder width, chest circumference, middle waist and length; the measurement data of the human arm includes a forearm length, an outer circumference of a wrist, an outer circumference of the forearm length, and an outer circumference of a shoulder.
3. A method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 2, wherein: in step S100, the method for measuring the sleeve-varying angle method includes: standing the body straight, enabling the arms of the human body to be lifted laterally, enabling the arms and the human body to form a vertical included angle, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; allowing the arms of the human body to droop freely, enabling the palms to be attached to the thighs, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; making an acute angle between the arms of the human body and the human body, measuring and recording various data of the arms of the human body at the moment; integrating data, determining the maximum value and the minimum value of each item of data, calculating an average value, and finally taking the average value as final data measured by the human arm.
4. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 1, wherein: in the step S300, the angle of the arm of the human body lifted by the side is controlled to be 0 to 180 °.
5. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 1, wherein: in the step S300, when the pre-sewing thread is marked on the sleeve body of the suit, the extension end may be removed when the fabric selected for the sleeve of the suit is cut in the step S400.
6. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 1, wherein: in step S400, when the pre-sewing thread is marked on the sleeve of the suit, the direction of the pre-sewing thread needs to be matched with the periphery of the sleeve hole of the suit body, i.e. the direction is in a certain radian.
7. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 6, wherein: in the step S400, when the sleeves of the suit are turned over along the central line thereof, it is first required to ensure that two wrist points at two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are symmetrical and two shoulder points are symmetrical and sutured, then two sleeve elbow points at two sides of the sleeves of the suit in the width direction are symmetrical and sutured, finally, the side edges between the wrist points and the sleeve elbow points are aligned and sutured, and the side edges between the sleeve elbow points and the shoulder points are aligned and sutured.
8. The method of making a western-style clothes sleeve according to claim 1, wherein: in the step S500, when cutting the redundant extension end, a plurality of cutting openings may be cut between the end portion of the extension end and the pre-sewing line, and then the redundant fabric between two adjacent cutting openings is cut to complete cutting of the redundant extension end.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202011016665.3A CN112237311A (en) | 2020-09-24 | 2020-09-24 | Pattern making method for suit sleeves |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
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| CN202011016665.3A CN112237311A (en) | 2020-09-24 | 2020-09-24 | Pattern making method for suit sleeves |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN114504154A (en) * | 2022-02-17 | 2022-05-17 | 北京电子科技职业学院 | Cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing |
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| CN114504154A (en) * | 2022-02-17 | 2022-05-17 | 北京电子科技职业学院 | Cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing |
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