CN114504154A - Cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing - Google Patents
Cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing Download PDFInfo
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- CN114504154A CN114504154A CN202210146034.6A CN202210146034A CN114504154A CN 114504154 A CN114504154 A CN 114504154A CN 202210146034 A CN202210146034 A CN 202210146034A CN 114504154 A CN114504154 A CN 114504154A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
- A41H37/001—Methods
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
- A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
- A41H43/04—Joining garment parts or blanks by gluing or welding ; Gluing presses
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
- D05B3/12—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing
- D05B3/14—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing perforated or press buttons
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
- D05B35/02—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for facilitating seaming; Hem-turning elements; Hemmers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B37/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
- D05B37/04—Cutting devices
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
- D06F73/00—Apparatus for smoothing or removing creases from garments or other textile articles by formers, cores, stretchers, or internal frames, with the application of heat or steam
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
- D06F75/00—Hand irons
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
- D06H7/00—Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a cutting method of Chinese Tang style clothing, belonging to the technical field of clothing processing, and specifically comprising the following steps: s101, cleaning and processing the fabric; s102, pressing the garment pieces; s103, determining a type; s104, cutting and processing; s104, edge sealing; s105, button sewing; and S106, ironing and packaging. According to the invention, after the multi-layer garment pieces are pressed and processed, the easy-tearing holes at the sample sewing positions are processed, so that the requirement of rapid cutting processing of the cloth edges at the connecting positions after the thick cloth pieces are sewn is met, the smoothness degree of the cloth edges after being sewn can be improved through the arrangement of the easy-tearing holes, the wearing comfort level is further improved, the processing adaptive capacity of different sample sewing positions is effectively met, meanwhile, the appearance making aesthetic degree and the processing precision can be improved through the combination of three-dimensional cutting and plane cutting on the cutting pieces, the aesthetic degree of finished Tang suits is effectively improved, and the use requirements are met.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment processing, and particularly relates to a cutting method of Chinese Tang style clothing.
Background
The clothing processing is a clothing production method which takes modern machine processing as the main part and takes manual processing as the auxiliary part, the Tang clothing is a kind of clothing in China, is a style in a Chinese clothing system, and is characterized by crossbreeding, right aesthetical and frenum. Representative of the breast shirt skirt, round neck gown of Tang and Chinese style dress, etc. The jacket types of women in Tang style clothing are generally divided into three types of long gown, long gown and shirt, and the existing Chinese style Tang style clothing is modern clothing with traditional elements designed by adding stand collar and western style three-dimensional cutting according to the shape of the Qing dynasty style jacket.
Chinese patent document CN101258950B discloses a method for making Tang style clothing, which comprises plate making and cutting, and is characterized by further comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps of (I) sticking a lining, (II) drawing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece, (III) making a fine dried noodle clamping lining opening inner bag, (IV) making a hem seam, (V) making a shoulder, (VI) making a collar, (VII) edging, (eight) attaching the collar, (nine) making a bottom edge, (ten) making a sleeve, (eleven) fitting sleeve, (twelve) disc button, (thirteen) edge and finally ironing to obtain the required Tang suit manufactured by the method, not only reflects the characteristics of the traditional Chinese clothing manufacturing process, but also has the means of the modern clothing manufacturing process after the Tang suit is molded, the clothes body is flat and full, the edge rolling disc button of the collar lappet is correct, the shoulder part is flat and the front and the back of the sleeve are smooth, however, the Chinese Tang suit is complex in preparation process, and the traditional Tang suit is cut and processed only through a single-layer fabric, so that the thickness of the Tang suit is insufficient, and the wearing requirements in cold weather cannot be well met.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to: the cutting method of the Chinese Tang suit is provided in order to solve the problems that the traditional Tang suit is cut only through a single-layer fabric, so that the thickness of the Tang suit is insufficient and the wearing requirement in cold weather cannot be well met due to the complex preparation process of the Chinese Tang suit.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing specifically comprises the following steps:
s101, fabric cleaning and processing, namely cleaning the surface of the fabric through a softener, fully washing to remove dust adhered to the fabric, and drying the fabric through a dryer after the fabric is cleaned;
s102, performing pressing processing on the garment pieces, and pressing the multiple layers of fabric pieces into multiple layers of fabrics through pressing viscose glue and ironing processes;
s103, determining a model, cutting and typesetting according to the characteristics of the plane model, cutting and prefabricating after typesetting, adjusting a mannequin, cutting out a gray cloth according to the style size, then drawing out basic lines of a waist line, a chest line, a central line and a hip line according to the cutting size and the error of the mannequin, roughly cutting and sewing on the mannequin by using a three-dimensional cutting means, observing the wearing effect of the mannequin, modifying and marking, finally manufacturing clothing sample clothes, scanning the clothing sample clothes into software, modifying the plane model in the software, reserving a sewing line head, and finally guiding the clothing sample clothes out of a cutting machine;
s104, cutting the laminated multilayer fabric by a cutting machine according to the output characteristics of a plane pattern, inserting and punching a plurality of easy-to-tear strip holes at the edge of the reserved sewing position along a certain interval after the fabric is subjected to plane cutting, and sequentially punching a plurality of clothes buckle opening grooves on the surface of a front sample sheet according to a sample plate model;
s104, edge sealing, namely feeding each plane sample sheet into a rear-side seam wrapping machine through feeding equipment to seal edges of the fabric, sequentially seaming sleeves, collars and edges of the plane sample sheets through a seaming machine, cutting off redundant thread ends, cutting off redundant seaming excess materials in size, rapidly breaking and moving out the excess materials through easy-to-tear strip holes, and enabling broken surfaces to be complete;
s105, button sewing, namely punching the multilayer cloth at the position of the button opening groove through a thimble of a button sewing machine, and then performing button sewing at the front side position of the front cloth;
and S106, ironing the clothes by using the steam ironing device, standing and cooling, packaging the clothes and leaving the factory, and finishing cutting.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
and after the S102 pressing processing, dip-dyeing processing treatment on the multilayer fabric is further included, and after dip-dyeing, drying in the shade for 5-7D to ensure the adhesion of the dye.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
the softener in S101 is one of an organic silicon softener, an anionic softener, a nonionic softener and a cationic softener.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
and in the S103, the clothing sample software is CAD software.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
and in the S102, the number of the laminated layers of the multiple layers of fabrics is 2-5.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
and in the S101, the drying temperature of the dryer is 30-50 ℃.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
the ironing temperature in the S102 is 120-150 ℃.
As a further description of the above technical solution:
the cross section of the easy-tear strip hole in the S104 is circular.
In summary, due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the invention, after the multilayer garment pieces are pressed and processed, the easy-tearing holes at the sample sewing positions are processed, so that the quick cutting processing of the cloth edges at the connecting positions after the thick cloth pieces are sewn is met, the smoothness degree of the cloth edges after the cloth edges are sewn can be improved through the arrangement of the easy-tearing holes, the wearing comfort level is further improved, the processing adaptive capacity of different sample sewing positions is effectively met, meanwhile, the appearance making aesthetic degree and the processing precision can be improved through the combination of three-dimensional cutting and plane cutting on the cutting pieces, the aesthetic degree of finished Tang suits is effectively improved, and the use requirements are met.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
The invention provides a technical scheme that: a cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing specifically comprises the following steps:
s101, fabric cleaning and processing, namely cleaning the surface of the fabric through a softener, fully washing to remove dust adhered to the fabric, and drying the fabric through a dryer after the fabric is cleaned;
s102, performing pressing processing on the garment pieces, and pressing the multiple layers of fabric pieces into multiple layers of fabrics through pressing viscose glue and ironing processes;
s103, determining a model, cutting and typesetting according to the characteristics of the plane model, cutting and prefabricating after typesetting, adjusting a mannequin, cutting out a gray cloth according to the style size, then drawing out basic lines of a waist line, a chest line, a central line and a hip line according to the cutting size and the error of the mannequin, roughly cutting and sewing on the mannequin by using a three-dimensional cutting means, observing the wearing effect of the mannequin, modifying and marking, finally manufacturing clothing sample clothes, scanning the clothing sample clothes into software, modifying the plane model in the software, reserving a sewing line head, and finally guiding the clothing sample clothes out of a cutting machine;
s104, cutting the laminated multilayer fabric by a cutting machine according to the output characteristics of a plane pattern, inserting and punching a plurality of easy-to-tear strip holes at the edge of the reserved sewing position along a certain interval after the fabric is subjected to plane cutting, and sequentially punching a plurality of clothes buckle opening grooves on the surface of a front sample sheet according to a sample plate model;
s104, edge sealing, namely feeding each plane sample sheet into a rear-side seam wrapping machine through feeding equipment to seal edges of the fabric, sequentially seaming sleeves, collars and edges of the plane sample sheets through a seaming machine, cutting off redundant thread ends, cutting off redundant seaming excess materials in size, rapidly breaking and moving out the excess materials through easy-to-tear strip holes, and enabling broken surfaces to be complete;
s105, button sewing, namely punching the multilayer cloth at the position of the button opening groove through a thimble of a button sewing machine, and then performing button sewing at the front side position of the front cloth;
and S106, ironing the clothes by using the steam ironing device, standing and cooling, packaging the clothes and leaving the factory, and finishing cutting.
The method comprises the following steps that after S102 pressing processing, dip dyeing processing is further carried out on the multilayer fabric, in addition, after dip dyeing, drying in the shade is carried out for 5D, the adhesion of dye is guaranteed, the softener in S101 is one of an organic silicon softener, an anionic softener, a nonionic softener and a cationic softener, the clothing sample clothing software in S103 is CAD software, the number of the pressing layers of the multilayer fabric in S102 is 2, the drying temperature of a dryer in S101 is 30 ℃, the ironing temperature in S102 is 120 ℃, and the cross section shape of an easy-to-tear strip hole in S104 is circular.
Example 2
The invention provides a technical scheme that: a cutting method of Chinese Tang style clothing specifically comprises the following steps:
s101, fabric cleaning and processing, namely cleaning the surface of the fabric through a softener, fully washing to remove dust adhered to the fabric, and drying the fabric through a dryer after the fabric is cleaned;
s102, performing pressing processing on the garment pieces, and pressing the multiple layers of fabric pieces into multiple layers of fabrics through pressing viscose glue and ironing processes;
s103, determining a model, cutting and typesetting according to the characteristics of the plane model, cutting and prefabricating after typesetting, adjusting a mannequin, cutting out a gray cloth according to the style size, then drawing out basic lines of a waist line, a chest line, a central line and a hip line according to the cutting size and the error of the mannequin, roughly cutting and sewing on the mannequin by using a three-dimensional cutting means, observing the wearing effect of the mannequin, modifying and marking, finally manufacturing clothing sample clothes, scanning the clothing sample clothes into software, modifying the plane model in the software, reserving a sewing line head, and finally guiding the clothing sample clothes out of a cutting machine;
s104, cutting the laminated multilayer fabric by a cutting machine according to the output characteristics of a plane pattern, inserting and punching a plurality of easy-to-tear strip holes at the edge of the reserved sewing position along a certain interval after the fabric is subjected to plane cutting, and sequentially punching a plurality of clothes buckle opening grooves on the surface of a front sample sheet according to a sample plate model;
s104, edge sealing, namely feeding each plane sample sheet into a rear-side seam wrapping machine through feeding equipment to seal edges of the fabric, sequentially seaming sleeves, collars and edges of the plane sample sheets through a seaming machine, cutting off redundant thread ends, cutting off redundant seaming excess materials in size, rapidly breaking and moving out the excess materials through easy-to-tear strip holes, and enabling broken surfaces to be complete;
s105, button sewing, namely punching the multilayer cloth at the position of the button opening groove through a thimble of a button sewing machine, and then performing button sewing at the front side position of the front cloth;
and S106, ironing the clothes by using the steam ironing device, standing and cooling, packaging the clothes and leaving the factory, and finishing cutting.
The method comprises the following steps that after S102 pressing processing, dip dyeing processing is further carried out on the multilayer fabric, in addition, 6D drying in the shade is carried out after dip dyeing to ensure the adhesion of dye, the softener in S101 is one of an organic silicon softener, an anionic softener, a nonionic softener and a cationic softener, the clothing sample clothing software in S103 is CAD software, the number of the multilayer fabric pressing layers in S102 is 3.5, the drying temperature of a dryer in S101 is 40 ℃, the ironing temperature in S102 is 135 ℃, and the cross section shape of an easy-to-tear strip hole in S104 is circular.
Example 3
The invention provides a technical scheme that: a cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing specifically comprises the following steps:
s101, fabric cleaning and processing, namely cleaning the surface of the fabric through a softener, fully washing to remove dust adhered to the fabric, and drying the fabric through a dryer after the fabric is cleaned;
s102, performing pressing processing on the garment pieces, and pressing the multiple layers of fabric pieces into multiple layers of fabrics through pressing viscose glue and ironing processes;
s103, determining a model, cutting and typesetting according to the characteristics of the plane model, cutting and prefabricating after typesetting, adjusting a mannequin, cutting out a gray cloth according to the style size, then drawing out basic lines of a waist line, a chest line, a central line and a hip line according to the cutting size and the error of the mannequin, roughly cutting and sewing on the mannequin by using a three-dimensional cutting means, observing the wearing effect of the mannequin, modifying and marking, finally manufacturing clothing sample clothes, scanning the clothing sample clothes into software, modifying the plane model in the software, reserving a sewing line head, and finally guiding the clothing sample clothes out of a cutting machine;
s104, cutting, namely cutting the laminated multilayer fabric through the output characteristics of a plane model by using a cutting machine, inserting and punching a plurality of easy-to-tear strip holes at the edge of a reserved sewing position along a certain interval after the fabric is subjected to plane cutting, and sequentially punching a plurality of clothes button grooves on the surface of a front sample sheet according to a sample plate model;
s104, edge sealing, namely feeding each plane sample sheet into a rear-side seam wrapping machine through feeding equipment to seal edges of the fabric, sequentially seaming sleeves, collars and edges of the plane sample sheets through a seaming machine, cutting off redundant thread ends, cutting off redundant seaming excess materials in size, rapidly breaking and moving out the excess materials through easy-to-tear strip holes, and enabling broken surfaces to be complete;
s105, button sewing, namely punching the multilayer cloth at the position of the button opening groove through a thimble of a button sewing machine, and then performing button sewing at the front side position of the front cloth;
and S106, ironing the clothes by using the steam ironing device, standing and cooling, packaging the clothes and leaving the factory, and finishing cutting.
The method comprises the following steps that after S102 pressing processing, dip dyeing processing is further carried out on the multilayer fabric, in addition, after dip dyeing, drying in the shade is carried out for 7D, and adhesion of dye is guaranteed, the softener in S101 is one of an organic silicon softener, an anionic softener, a nonionic softener and a cationic softener, the clothing sample clothing software in S103 is CAD software, the number of the pressing layers of the multilayer fabric in S102 is 5, the drying temperature of a dryer in S101 is 50 ℃, the ironing temperature in S102 is 150 ℃, and the cross section shape of an easy-to-tear strip hole in S104 is circular.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (8)
1. A cutting method of Chinese style Tang style clothing is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s101, fabric cleaning and processing, namely cleaning the surface of the fabric through a softener, fully washing to remove dust adhered to the fabric, and drying the fabric through a dryer after the fabric is cleaned;
s102, performing pressing processing on the garment pieces, and pressing the multiple layers of fabric pieces into multiple layers of fabrics through pressing viscose glue and ironing processes;
s103, determining a model, cutting and typesetting according to the characteristics of the plane model, cutting and prefabricating after typesetting, adjusting a mannequin, cutting out a gray cloth according to the style size, then drawing out basic lines of a waist line, a chest line, a central line and a hip line according to the cutting size and the error of the mannequin, roughly cutting and sewing on the mannequin by using a three-dimensional cutting means, observing the wearing effect of the mannequin, modifying and marking, finally manufacturing clothing sample clothes, scanning the clothing sample clothes into software, modifying the plane model in the software, reserving a sewing line head, and finally guiding the clothing sample clothes out of a cutting machine;
s104, cutting the laminated multilayer fabric by a cutting machine according to the output characteristics of a plane pattern, inserting and punching a plurality of easy-to-tear strip holes at the edge of the reserved sewing position along a certain interval after the fabric is subjected to plane cutting, and sequentially punching a plurality of clothes buckle opening grooves on the surface of a front sample sheet according to a sample plate model;
s104, edge sealing, namely feeding each plane sample sheet into a rear-side seam wrapping machine through feeding equipment to seal edges of the fabric, sequentially seaming sleeves, collars and edges of the plane sample sheets through a seaming machine, cutting off redundant thread ends, cutting off redundant seaming excess materials in size, rapidly breaking and moving out the excess materials through easy-to-tear strip holes, and enabling broken surfaces to be complete;
s105, button sewing, namely punching the multilayer cloth at the position of the button opening groove through a thimble of a button sewing machine, and then performing button sewing at the front side position of the front cloth;
and S106, ironing the clothes by using the steam ironing device, standing and cooling, packaging the clothes and leaving the factory, and finishing cutting.
2. The method for cutting Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the S102 pressing process is followed by a dip dyeing process for the multilayer fabric, and the drying in the shade after the dip dyeing is carried out for 5-7D to ensure the adhesion of the dye.
3. The method for cutting Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the softener of S101 is one of silicone softener, anionic softener, nonionic softener and cationic softener.
4. The cutting method of Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the clothing-like clothing software in S103 is CAD software.
5. The cutting method of the Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the number of the press-fit layers of the multi-layer fabric in the S102 is 2-5.
6. The cutting method of Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the drying temperature of the dryer in S101 is 30-50 ℃.
7. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the ironing temperature in S102 is 120-150 ℃.
8. The method for cutting Chinese Tang style clothing of claim 1, wherein the cross-sectional shape of the tearable hole of S104 is circular.
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