CN116725272A - Machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
Machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit and manufacturing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN116725272A CN116725272A CN202310454880.9A CN202310454880A CN116725272A CN 116725272 A CN116725272 A CN 116725272A CN 202310454880 A CN202310454880 A CN 202310454880A CN 116725272 A CN116725272 A CN 116725272A
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- machine
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- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 101
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 78
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 67
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 64
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 48
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000007710 freezing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
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- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 4
- KZEVSDGEBAJOTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)-2-[5-[2-[[3-(trifluoromethoxy)phenyl]methylamino]pyrimidin-5-yl]-1,3,4-oxadiazol-2-yl]ethanone Chemical compound N1N=NC=2CN(CCC=21)C(CC=1OC(=NN=1)C=1C=NC(=NC=1)NCC1=CC(=CC=C1)OC(F)(F)F)=O KZEVSDGEBAJOTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HMUNWXXNJPVALC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]-2-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)ethanone Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)C(CN1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2)=O HMUNWXXNJPVALC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LDXJRKWFNNFDSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)-1-[4-[2-[[3-(trifluoromethoxy)phenyl]methylamino]pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]ethanone Chemical compound C1CN(CC2=NNN=C21)CC(=O)N3CCN(CC3)C4=CN=C(N=C4)NCC5=CC(=CC=C5)OC(F)(F)F LDXJRKWFNNFDSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- OHVLMTFVQDZYHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)-2-[4-[2-[[3-(trifluoromethoxy)phenyl]methylamino]pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]ethanone Chemical compound N1N=NC=2CN(CCC=21)C(CN1CCN(CC1)C=1C=NC(=NC=1)NCC1=CC(=CC=C1)OC(F)(F)F)=O OHVLMTFVQDZYHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VZSRBBMJRBPUNF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)-N-[3-oxo-3-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)propyl]pyrimidine-5-carboxamide Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)C(=O)NCCC(N1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2)=O VZSRBBMJRBPUNF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SXAMGRAIZSSWIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[3-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]-1,2,4-oxadiazol-5-yl]-1-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)ethanone Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)C1=NOC(=N1)CC(=O)N1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2 SXAMGRAIZSSWIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WZFUQSJFWNHZHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]-1-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)ethanone Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)CC(=O)N1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2 WZFUQSJFWNHZHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JQMFQLVAJGZSQS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]-N-(2-oxo-3H-1,3-benzoxazol-6-yl)acetamide Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)CC(=O)NC1=CC2=C(NC(O2)=O)C=C1 JQMFQLVAJGZSQS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IHCCLXNEEPMSIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperidin-1-yl]-1-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)ethanone Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)C1CCN(CC1)CC(=O)N1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2 IHCCLXNEEPMSIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YLZOPXRUQYQQID-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)-1-[4-[2-[[3-(trifluoromethoxy)phenyl]methylamino]pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]propan-1-one Chemical compound N1N=NC=2CN(CCC=21)CCC(=O)N1CCN(CC1)C=1C=NC(=NC=1)NCC1=CC(=CC=C1)OC(F)(F)F YLZOPXRUQYQQID-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CONKBQPVFMXDOV-QHCPKHFHSA-N 6-[(5S)-5-[[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]methyl]-2-oxo-1,3-oxazolidin-3-yl]-3H-1,3-benzoxazol-2-one Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)C[C@H]1CN(C(O1)=O)C1=CC2=C(NC(O2)=O)C=C1 CONKBQPVFMXDOV-QHCPKHFHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DFGKGUXTPFWHIX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-[2-[4-[2-(2,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-ylamino)pyrimidin-5-yl]piperazin-1-yl]acetyl]-3H-1,3-benzoxazol-2-one Chemical compound C1C(CC2=CC=CC=C12)NC1=NC=C(C=N1)N1CCN(CC1)CC(=O)C1=CC2=C(NC(O2)=O)C=C1 DFGKGUXTPFWHIX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
- D06B1/02—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by spraying or projecting
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/02—Jackets
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
- A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit and a manufacturing method thereof, wherein the manufacturing method comprises the following steps: s1, sewing a western-style clothes; s2, spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid to enable the liquid carrying rate of the business suit to reach 70-90%; s3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, wherein the water content of the pre-dried business suit is controlled to be 20-30%; s4, pressing and presetting the business suit; s5, sleeving the business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack, and placing the business suit into low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, wherein the water content of the business suit is 0-10% after the business suit is finished; s6, finishing the business suit in non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment; s7, washing, finishing and drying. The wool fabric business suit prepared by the invention can meet the standard requirements, has soft hand feeling, can keep the 3.5-4-level non-ironing effect, can be subjected to machine washing, has simple maintenance process, improves the working efficiency, has attractive effect, and is lighter and more comfortable to wear.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing processing, in particular to a machine-washable wash-and-wear business suit of wool and a manufacturing method thereof.
Background
The business suit is one of the first choice for the business enterprise practitioner and the government agency practitioner to wear the business suit in more formal occasions. The western-style clothes made of the wool fabric are natural and soft in luster, soft in handfeel and rich in elasticity, loose after being tightly held, basically have no wrinkles, and can disappear in a very short time even if slight folds exist, and the wool fabric western-style clothes are chemical fiber fabrics which are far superior to flashing and shining in texture and sense of sagging. However, wool is shrunk when meeting water, which is a 'shortcoming' of wool, and when consumers are working wool business suit, dry cleaning is often needed, which is inconvenient and costly, so that the consumer experience is poor. Modern people have various demands for health, comfort, convenience and quickness, and the business suit which cannot be washed by water or machine cannot meet the demands of consumers.
The wool fabric business suit sold in the market at present cannot be washed by water, because the front chest of the business suit is provided with a sticky lining, the lining is easy to fall off and foam after washing by water or a machine, the chemical composition and morphological structure characteristics of the wool fiber are adopted, the radial shrinkage of the seam line of the clothing is easy to be caused in the continuous washing and ironing process of the wool fabric, the shrinkage is much larger than the shrinkage of the surrounding fabric, and the shrinkage is caused to cause the crease and the shrinkage of the seam line of two pieces of clothing, even if the two pieces of clothing are cured and shaped after hot pressing and clothing baking, the crease will be recovered after washing, and the appearance of the clothing is affected. In addition, the wool fabric cannot be shaped at high temperature, when the temperature exceeds 120 ℃, the wool fabric is burnt and shrunk, so that the wool fabric cannot be shaped by high-temperature pressing (with pressure, normal 100-150 ℃ and damage to the strength of wool fibers, easy embrittlement and poor fraying) and baked at high temperature (150 ℃ is needed for normal high-temperature shaping), and the wool garment is shaped at normal temperature, and the wool garment is shaped at high temperature, because of the characteristics, the wool fibers are not modified by equipment, the fibers are held tightly by freezing and dehumidifying, and the wool fabric is softer, has smooth and glutinous hand feeling, can keep the pen-shaped, and has crease-resistant and 3.5-4-level non-ironing effects. In addition, the wool fabric is acid-resistant and alkali-resistant, and the crease-resistant effect and wearing comfort of wool are improved by using a descaling method, and no non-ironing effect is achieved.
In the market, a few crease-resistant woolen clothes are only coated with a composite sizing coating or crease-resistant agents at seams of the clothes to achieve the non-ironing effect, the process only briefly ensures the leveling effect of the clothes, reduces wearing comfort, cannot achieve the 3.5-4-level non-ironing effect, has hard hand feeling and scrapes meat when being worn, and therefore the wool non-ironing process needs to be improved urgently. Patent document CN 111743218A relates to a machine washable wool western-style clothes and a sewing method, wherein the welt of the inner side of the lower hem of the main body of the western-style clothes is provided with a water permeable hole, and the edges of cuffs of sleeves are provided with thin liners which are made of machine washable lining cloth. When the machine washing is carried out, the bonding lining cloth can effectively stabilize the business form structure and the three-dimensional sense of the business suit, and after the water permeable holes are formed, the water backlog falling generated between the fabric and the lining material in the machine washing process can be effectively reduced, so that the possibility of business suit deformation and lining cloth breakage is caused, water is discharged through the water permeable holes, and the comprehensive safety guarantee is provided for the non-deformation after the machine washing. According to the method, the water permeable holes are formed, so that the machine washability of the suit can be improved to a certain extent, but the wool fabric is not improved, the wool fabric is still easy to shrink after multiple machine washes, the suit is wrinkled, and the three-dimensional shape of the suit is poor.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the problems that the existing wool fabric is poor in non-ironing treatment effect, not durable, cannot reach 3.5 level in non-ironing effect, is hard in hand feeling, is hand-pricked and affects wearing comfort in the prior art, and provides a manufacturing method of a machine-washable non-ironing business suit of wool.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:
a method for manufacturing machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit comprises the following steps
Step S1, sewing the western-style clothes; the method specifically comprises the following steps:
s11, performing shrink-proof treatment on wool fabric cut pieces and adhesive liners, wherein the wool fabric contains more than 80% of wool;
step S12, saving and returning to the original position; the number of the plucking treatment is 0.4-1 cm;
s13, performing chest interlining and vehicle panel strip on the western-style clothes;
s14, carrying out compound noodles and turning over and ironing the seam allowance, then sewing a swing seam, making a bottom edge and closing a shoulder seam;
s15, collar and sleeve mounting processes are carried out;
s16, ironing the business suit, and then nailing buttons;
s2, spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid to enable the liquid carrying rate of the business suit to reach 70-90%;
s3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, wherein the water content of the pre-dried business suit is controlled to be 20-30%;
s4, pressing and presetting the business suit;
s5, sleeving the business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack, and placing the business suit into low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, wherein the water content of the business suit is 0-10% after finishing;
s6, finishing the business suit in non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment;
and S7, washing, finishing and drying to obtain the machine-washable wash-and-wear suit.
After the western-style clothes are sewn, the non-ironing finishing liquid is sprayed on the western-style clothes, low-temperature pre-drying, pre-ironing and pressing are adopted, the western-style clothes are sleeved into a three-dimensional human-shaped clothes hanger, the three-dimensional human-shaped clothes hanger is used for dehumidifying and drying, the filling branches of the western-style clothes hanger are used for stretching, the water content of the western-style clothes is reduced to 0-10% after the low-temperature setting, the setting of the wool western-style clothes is realized, the non-ironing and quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment is used for finishing, the non-ironing effect is improved, and residual non-ironing finishing liquid in the western-style clothes is fully removed after water washing, so that residues are not generated on the western-style clothes. In the whole manufacturing process, the strength of the wool fiber fabric is prevented from being damaged at high temperature by controlling process parameters.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, the wool content in the wool fabric is more than 95%, and more preferably, the wool fabric is a full wool fabric.
In the preferred scheme of the invention, in the step S12, before lining bonding, the cut wool fabric needs to be subjected to thread bonding, the thread bonding is used for positioning and marking, and the western-style clothes are removed in the subsequent sewing process.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a water washable polyester fiber adhesive liner is used. When the machine washing is carried out, the washable polyester fiber adhesive interlining can effectively stabilize the layout structure and the stereoscopic impression of the business suit. In the lining adhering process, lining adhering is carried out on the fabrics at the positions of a large body, fine dried noodles, a collar, a bag cover and the like, and an automatic lining pressing machine is adopted for lining adhering operation.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, the bus used for winding is shrink-proof core-spun polyester bus, and the single-wire breaking strength of the bus is not lower than 720cN/50cm. Specifically, the wire adopts 502 cored wire.
As the preferable scheme of the invention, the number of the plucking treatment is 0.5-0.8 cm; according to the invention, aiming at the high wool fabric or the pure wool fabric, the shaping process is adopted for preliminary shaping of the suit, the shaping process is adopted for shaping, the shaping process is carried out by adopting a shaping ironing machine special for the suit, shaping front piece, rear piece, sleeve piece and fine dried noodles are shaped, the shaping range value is controlled according to a model at the position needing shaping during the operation of staff, the inventor finds that the shaping range value is too large through multiple experiments, the flatness of the suit has wave, and the three-dimensional shape of the suit is better when the shaping range value is controlled within the range of 0.5-0.8 cm, so that the shaping of the suit is stiff.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, in the step S13, a layer of non-woven fabric lining is coated on the front chest in the chest coating, and the vehicle filler rod is reversely folded at the business suit lapel. The invention adopts the non-woven fabric lining which is compounded on the front chest, the non-woven fabric lining has machine washability, and the two layers or three layers of non-woven fabric lining are compounded on the front chest in the prior art, so that the thickness of the front chest part can be increased, the business suit is more three-dimensionally pulled out, but the front chest part is too thick, the front chest part is dried slower than other parts of the business suit in the machine washing process, the front chest part is easy to generate wrinkles, and the machine washability is poor. The panel strip is vertically arranged on the crease formed at the joint of the front chest and the lapel structure, and the panel strip is vertically arranged, so that the lapel is not dead after being folded, cannot be scalded and is more natural and flexible in appearance and cannot be tilted through pertinently adjusting the thickness and the width of the panel strip; meanwhile, in the process of hot-pressing the embedded strip, the dissolving position can be taken into the embedded strip, the problems of deformation and bubbles of the fabric caused by the dissolving position are effectively solved, and the hot-pressing embedded strip is simple in structure and convenient to operate.
In the preferred mode of the invention, in the step S13, the towel bag and the big bag are opened on the suit before the chest interlining is carried out, and the inner bag and the splicing ear piece are opened on the suit after the panel strip is turned.
In step S14, a nonwoven fabric liner is provided at the splice joint, the nonwoven fabric liner being a machine washable polyester fiber. The non-woven fabric lining is arranged at the joint position, and the strength of the joint position can be increased by arranging the non-woven fabric lining, so that the western-style clothes have good flatness after being washed by a machine.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, in the step S14, thin shoulder cotton which can be washed by a machine is adopted in the shoulder joint, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15cm. The thin shoulder cotton with the specified thickness has the shaping capability, can ensure the stiffness of the shoulder parts of the suit, and simultaneously reduces the thickness of the shoulder parts of the suit, so that the drying time of the shoulder parts is reduced when the suit is washed by a machine, the washing water of the thin shoulder cotton which can be washed by the machine is not easy to deform, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced.
As the preferable scheme of the invention, the collar and sleeve mounting process is completed and then the lining and buttonholing are sewn.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, in the step S2, the proportion of the non-ironing finishing liquid is regulated according to the weight of the business suit, 30-50 business suit is put into the non-ironing finishing liquid spraying equipment, washing is carried out in the bi-directional rotating pair of non-ironing finishing liquid equipment, the rotating speed is 5-30 r/min, the pressurized atomized non-ironing finishing liquid is sprayed onto the tumbling business suit, the pressure is 0.5-1 MPa, the liquid carrying rate of the business suit is 70-90%, and the finishing time is 10-30 min. The wash-and-wear finishing liquid is an aqueous solution.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, the low-temperature pre-drying conditions are as follows: the temperature is 40-60 ℃ and the time is 15-30 min. The low-temperature pre-drying is carried out after the non-ironing finishing liquid is sprayed on the business suit, so that the humidity of the fabric is reduced, and the non-ironing finishing liquid molecules cannot migrate in the drying process. The inventor finds that the heat treatment of the full wool fabric at 60 ℃ has no great influence on wool, gradually goes bad along with the temperature increase, dries at 100 ℃ for 1 hour, turns yellow in color, reduces the strength, dehydrates at 110 ℃, turns dark brown at 130 ℃, has odor at 150 ℃ and cokes at 200-250 ℃ through multiple experiments. The wool is treated at high temperature for a short time, and the property is unchanged. So that the temperature of the low-temperature pre-drying cannot be too high, and the temperature is 40-60 ℃ for 15-30 min.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step S4, the specific method for pressing and pre-shaping is as follows: and (3) carrying out pressing shaping on the business suit by adopting pressing shaping equipment for the business suit, wherein the pressing time is 8-10 s, and the temperature is 80-100 ℃.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, in the step S5, the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 40-70 ℃, the relative humidity is 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min.
As a preferable scheme of the invention, in the step S6, the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment is set at the temperature of-5-0 ℃ for 6-12 nin. The business suit is cooled extremely fast in a freezer of the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment after being shaped at low temperature, and is beaten by gentle air, so that the non-ironing hand feeling is improved.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step S7, the specific process of washing with water is: adding softening agent for washing for 8-10 min. The water washing function is to improve the hand feeling of the suit, wash off the thread ends and the thread tails on the suit, wash off unreacted auxiliary agents, free formaldehyde and the like.
As a preferred scheme of the present invention, in step S7, the specific method for drying the finished product is as follows: placing the suit in low-temperature shaping equipment, setting the temperature to 40-60 ℃ for 60-90 min, and baking to be completely dry.
In step S7, the finished product is dried and then the suit is finished. After the process, the business suit has a three-dimensional appearance and the wash-and-wear machine washable characteristic, and in order to enable the shipped clothing to have a better appearance, the business suit is subjected to ironing again.
The invention further provides a machine-washable non-ironing wool business suit which is manufactured by the manufacturing method.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the manufacturing method of the invention sprays the wash-and-wear finishing liquid on the business suit after the business suit is sewn, adopts low-temperature pre-drying, pre-ironing and pressing, then sleeves the business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes hanger, and places the business suit in low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, fully spreads the business suit through the three-dimensional humanoid clothes hanger, reduces the water content of the business suit to 0-10% after the low-temperature setting, realizes the setting of the wool business suit, then carries out finishing by the wash-and-wear quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment, improves the wash-and-wear effect, and fully removes the wash-and-wear finishing liquid remained in the business suit after washing, so that residues are not left on the business suit. In the whole manufacturing process, the strength of the wool fabric is prevented from being damaged at high temperature by controlling the temperature and time parameters in the manufacturing process, and the wool fabric business suit prepared by the method has good crease resistance, small shrinkage and excellent washing resistance.
2. The wool fabric business suit prepared by the method can meet the standard requirements, the warp direction is more than or equal to 10N in a tearing strength test, the weft direction is more than or equal to 10N, the seam combing degree is less than or equal to 0.6cm, the warp direction is-1.5 to +1.5% in a washing size change rate test, the weft direction is-1.0 to +1.0%, the appearance flatness after washing and drying is more than or equal to 3.5 level, the seam appearance after washing and drying is more than or equal to 3 level, the hand feeling is soft, the non-ironing effect of 3.5-4 level can be maintained, the machine washing can be performed, the business suit maintenance process is simple, the working efficiency is improved, the attractive effect is achieved, and the business suit is more portable and comfortable to wear.
Description of the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a schematic flow chart of a method for making machine washable easy-care western-style clothes of wool;
FIG. 2 is an external view showing the production of a business suit using test example 6-2;
FIG. 3 is a test result of the non-ironing effect of the business suit prepared by using test example 6-1;
FIG. 4 is an external view of a western-style clothes prepared using test example 6-1;
FIG. 5 is a test result of the non-ironing effect of the business suit prepared by using test example 9;
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to test examples and specific embodiments. It should not be construed that the scope of the above subject matter of the present invention is limited to the following embodiments, and all techniques realized based on the present invention are within the scope of the present invention.
Example 1
As shown in fig. 1, the manufacturing method of the machine washable non-ironing wool suit comprises the following steps:
step S1, sewing the western-style clothes; the method specifically comprises the following steps:
s11, performing shrink-proof treatment on wool fabric cut pieces and adhesive liners, wherein the wool fabric contains more than 80% of wool;
step S12, saving and returning to the original position; the number of the plucking treatment is 0.4-1 cm;
s13, performing chest interlining and vehicle panel strip on the western-style clothes;
s14, carrying out compound noodles and turning over and ironing the seam allowance, then sewing a swing seam, making a bottom edge and closing a shoulder seam;
s15, collar and sleeve mounting processes are carried out;
s16, ironing the business suit, and then nailing buttons;
s2, spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid to enable the liquid carrying rate of the business suit to reach 70-90%;
s3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, wherein the water content of the pre-dried business suit is controlled to be 20-30%; the conditions of low-temperature pre-drying are as follows: the temperature is 40-60 ℃ and the time is 15-30 min;
s4, pressing and presetting the business suit;
s5, sleeving the business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack, and placing the business suit into low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, wherein the water content of the business suit is 0-10% after finishing; setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment are that the temperature is 40-70 ℃, the relative humidity is 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min;
s6, finishing the business suit in non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment; setting the temperature of the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment to be-5-0 ℃ for 6-12 min;
and S7, washing, finishing and drying to obtain the machine-washable wash-and-wear suit.
The wool content in the wool fabric of this embodiment is more than 95%, and more preferably, the wool fabric is a full wool fabric. The fabric used in the western-style clothes in the embodiment is full wool fabric, the full wool fabric is Australian wool with super 120-140S, and is subjected to shrink-proof treatment to prepare yarn with the density of 366 x 318-418 x 382 and the gram weight of 250-275G/M, and the machine washable non-ironing wool fabric is prepared.
Further, in step S12, before lining, a piece of thread needs to be sewn on the cut wool fabric, the piece of thread is used for positioning and marking, and the piece of thread needs to be removed in the subsequent process of sewing the suit. The T-shirt is made of white cotton threads, the length of the white cotton threads is 2-3 cm, the stitch length of the short cotton threads is 0.3-0.5 cm, and the T-shirt is made at the positions of front and rear garment pieces, sleeves, back middle seams, bottom edges and the like. The adhesive interlining is a water-washable polyester fiber adhesive interlining. When the machine washing is carried out, the washable polyester fiber adhesive interlining can effectively stabilize the layout structure and the stereoscopic impression of the business suit. In the lining adhering process, lining adhering is carried out on the fabrics at the positions of a large body, fine dried noodles, a collar, a bag cover and the like, and lining adhering operation is carried out by adopting an automatic lining pressing machine.
In the process of the retraction, the flat car is retracted into the chest, back stitching is performed, side stitching is performed, the retraction is started, the upper thread end and the lower thread end are knotted, and the tail of the inner thread is kept below 0.5cm. The whole receiving and saving requires a skilled lathe to press the spigot and cut the thread straight and smooth, and the thread ends of the starting and stopping thread are kept firm and not to fall off. The wire adopted in the winding process is shrink-proof core-spun polyester wire, and the single-wire breaking strength of the wire is not lower than 720cN/50cm. Specifically, the wire adopts 502 cored wire.
One of key steps of preparing the suit during the returning and pulling operation is that the returning and pulling treatment value is 0.5-0.8 cm; according to the invention, aiming at the high wool fabric or the pure wool fabric, the method adopts a return-pull process to preliminarily shape the suit, the return-pull process is carried out by adopting a return-pull ironing machine special for the suit, the return-pull front piece, the rear piece, the sleeve piece and the fine dried noodles are subjected to return-pull treatment, the return-pull range value is controlled according to a model at a position needing return-pull during the operation of staff, the inventor discovers that the return-pull value range is controlled within the range of 0.5-0.8 cm through multiple experiments, and the three-dimensional shape of the suit is better, so that the plate-type of the suit is stiff and pulled.
In the step S13, a layer of non-woven fabric lining is coated on the front chest in the composite chest lining, and the vehicle filler rod is reversely folded at the western-style clothes lapel. The invention adopts the non-woven fabric lining which is compounded on the front chest, the non-woven fabric lining has machine washability, and the two layers or three layers of non-woven fabric lining are compounded on the front chest in the prior art, so that the thickness of the front chest part can be increased, the business suit is more three-dimensionally pulled out, but the front chest part is too thick, the front chest part is dried slower than other parts of the business suit in the machine washing process, the front chest part is easy to generate wrinkles, and the machine washability is poor.
The panel strip is vertically arranged on the crease formed at the joint of the front chest and the lapel structure, and the panel strip is vertically arranged, so that the lapel is not dead after being folded, cannot be scalded and is more natural and flexible in appearance and cannot be tilted through pertinently adjusting the thickness and the width of the panel strip; meanwhile, in the process of hot-pressing the embedded strip, the dissolving position can be taken into the embedded strip, the problems of deformation and bubbles of the fabric caused by the dissolving position are effectively solved, and the hot-pressing embedded strip is simple in structure and convenient to operate. In this step, the fillet is provided with a thread, the chest-covering lining is fixed with a V-shaped machine and a snap machine according to the requirements of the money industry, then the molding is carried out by a press, then the snap machine is used for snapping the required tightness of the chest, and thenThe strip of picking thread is fixed.
In step S13, a towel bag and a big bag are opened on the suit before the chest interlining is recovered, and an inner bag and splicing ear pieces are opened on the suit after the filler rod is turned. The method for opening the towel bag comprises the following steps: the shape of the towel bag is scalded according to the towel bag template, then the size of the towel bag is drawn according to the towel bag paper pattern, the towel bag is aligned with the front piece of the business suit, the towel bag is turned point to point, the seam allowance is cut off to be scalded flatly, then two sides of the bag lip are sealed by a Y-shaped machine, and the bag opening is pried by a prizing machine. The method for opening the big bag comprises the following steps: and (3) drawing a bag position according to the large bag paper pattern, aligning infrared rays with a bag position line, adjusting the size, and opening the large bag by using a bag opening machine. The inner bag is opened by an automatic bag opening machine.
In step S14, a non-woven fabric lining is arranged at the position of the spliced seam, the non-woven fabric lining is a layer of polyester fiber which can be washed by a machine, and the strength of the seam can be increased by arranging the non-woven fabric lining, so that the western-style clothes have better flatness after being washed by the machine. The compound noodles are operated by special machines for skilled lathes, firstly, the surface lines are drawn according to paper patterns, the finished noodles are smoothly put in place according to lines, and the seam allowance is sewn and ironed by a die. The shoulder seam is operated by a special machine, and a skilled lathing worker controls the eating amount according to the fabric section. In the step S15, the collar is drawn according to the paper pattern, a skilled lathe accurately, smoothly and accurately corrects the seam allowance according to the drawn line, and then the seam allowance is ironed by the ironing process; the sleeves and the clamp body are cut according to the paper patterns, the cut and the spigot are point-to-point by a skilled lathe worker, the spigot is uniform, the eating amount is controlled by a special machine, the spigot is flattened by ironing, the sleeve is not deformed, and then the sleeve thread is wound on the sleeve cotton.
In the step S14, thin shoulder cotton which can be washed by a machine is adopted in the shoulder joint, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15cm. The thin shoulder cotton with the specified thickness has the shaping capability, can ensure the stiffness of the shoulder parts of the suit, and simultaneously reduces the thickness of the shoulder parts of the suit, so that the drying time of the shoulder parts is reduced when the suit is washed by a machine, the washing water of the thin shoulder cotton which can be washed by the machine is not easy to deform, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced.
And (5) sewing and clamping the inner part and buttonholing after the collar and sleeve mounting process is completed. The buttonhole is used for drawing the position of the buttonhole according to the paper pattern, aligning to the drawing position and carrying out buttonhole operation by adopting buttonhole equipment. In the step S16, the button is nailed by a Du Kepu special machine, 8 wires are wound on the feet of each hole by the full-automatic button, the feet are wound by the hot-melt wires, the button is not easy to fall off, no thread is left after the button is nailed by the western-style clothes, the button is neat, and the three-dimensional effect is achieved.
In the step S2, the wash-and-wear finishing liquid is commercially available, the wash-and-wear finishing liquid is an aqueous solution, the dosage of the wash-and-wear finishing liquid is regulated according to the liquid carrying rate of the business suit and the weight of the business suit, 30-50 business packages are put into equipment for spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid, the washing is carried out in the equipment for spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid in a bidirectional rotating pair, the rotating speed is 5-30 r/min, the pressurized atomized wash-and-wear finishing liquid is sprayed on the tumbling business suit, the pressure is 0.5-1 MPa, the liquid carrying rate of the business suit is 70-90%, and the finishing time is 10-30 min. In step S4, the specific method for pressing and pre-shaping is as follows: and (3) carrying out pressing shaping on the business suit by adopting pressing shaping equipment for the business suit, wherein the pressing time is 8-10 s, and the temperature is 80-100 ℃.
In step S7, the specific process of the water washing is: adding softening agent for washing for 8-10 min. The water washing function is to improve the hand feeling of the suit, wash off the thread ends and the thread tails on the suit, wash off unreacted auxiliary agents, free formaldehyde and the like. The specific method for drying the finished product comprises the following steps: placing the suit in low-temperature shaping equipment, setting the temperature to 40-60 ℃ for 60-90 min, and baking to be completely dry. In some embodiments, the specific method is: and (3) sleeving the washed business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack, and placing the business suit in low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, wherein the business suit is completely dry after finishing. The softener is a silicone softener and is commercially available.
In step S7, the finished product is dried and then the western-style clothes are finished and scalded. After the process, the business suit has a three-dimensional appearance and the wash-and-wear characteristic, and in order to enable the shipped clothing to have a better appearance, the business suit is subjected to ironing again, so that the shipped business suit is better in flatness and is more stiff.
Test example 1
In order to test the influence of the three-dimensional humanoid clothes hanger in the step S5 on the non-ironing effect of the finished business suit, the fabric, the structure and the process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, wherein the difference is that the three-dimensional humanoid clothes hanger in the step S5 is different, and the conditions of different test cases in the step S5 are as follows:
test example 1-1: the business suit is sleeved into the three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack.
Test examples 1-2: the suit is sleeved into a common clothes hanger.
Testing the western-style clothes obtained by the test example, wherein the test method of tearing strength test in the test process is GB/T3917.2-2009 trouser method, and the test method of seam combing degree test is GB/T21294-2014,9.2.1, and the load is 100N; the test method for the water washing size change rate test is GB/T8629-2017, A-type washing machine, and the program is as follows: 4G, hanging and airing; the testing method of the appearance flatness test after washing and drying is GB/T18863-2002 non-ironing textiles; the testing method of the seam appearance test after washing and drying is GB/T18863-2002 non-ironing textile, and the hand feeling test is to select a plurality of people to touch the western-style clothes to obtain comprehensive feeling. The test results are shown in Table 1 below:
table 1 influence of stereoscopic humanoid clothes hanger on non-ironing effect of western-style clothes
Note that: in the water-wash dimensional change rate test, "-" represents shrinkage and "+" represents elongation.
According to the data in the table 1, the three-dimensional human-shaped clothes hanger western-style clothes can meet the standard requirements, and the requirements of standard values on the tearing strength, the washing size change rate, the seam combing degree, the appearance flatness and the appearance after washing and drying of the western-style clothes hanger are not met by the adoption of the ordinary clothes hanger, so that the western-style clothes hanger has hard handfeel and poor comfort. The three-dimensional modeling support is more comprehensive, more accords with the shape of clothes when being worn, can better support the clothes, the air for dehumidifying and drying enters the inside of the clothes, and is rapidly ventilated to discharge water vapor, so that the air fluidity of the inner side of the clothes is improved, the collar and shoulder dehydration speed of the clothes are higher, the dehumidifying and drying speeds of all parts of the clothes are consistent, the modeling of the clothes is good in consistency between a wet state and a state after drying treatment, the clothes are dried faster, the three-dimensional effect is kept all the time, the clothes are suitable for drying, deformation or stress abnormality caused by the gravity increase of the wet state of the clothes cannot exist, and the good integral shaping effect of the clothes is achieved. The stereoscopic clothes hanger is not adopted, the western-style clothes are easy to deform, the non-ironing effect specified by national standards cannot be achieved, the flatness of the appearance after washing and drying is not qualified, and the deformation of the chest, the shoulder positions and the clamping rings is easy to occur in experiments, which is caused by the insufficient support of the common clothes hanger in the forming process. The three-dimensional clothes hanger is adopted, so that the three-dimensional effect of the clothes can be completely reserved, the stress area of the western-style clothes is increased, the non-ironing reaction time is accelerated, and the non-ironing effect is enhanced.
Test example 2
In order to test the influence of the temperature and time of the low-temperature setting device in the step S5 on the non-ironing effect of the finished business suit, the fabric, structure and process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, the moisture content of the business suit after the low-temperature setting is kept to be about 10%, and the difference is that the temperature and time in the step S5 are different, and the conditions of different test cases in the step S5 are as follows:
test example 2-1: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 40 ℃ and has a relative humidity of 10%, and the low-temperature setting time is 30min.
Test example 2-2: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 55 ℃ and has a relative humidity of 10%, and the low-temperature setting time is 25min.
Test examples 2-3: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 70 ℃, the relative humidity is 10%, and the low-temperature setting time is 15min.
Test examples 2-4: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 35 ℃, the relative humidity is 10%, and the low-temperature setting time is 40min.
Test examples 2-5: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 80 ℃, the relative humidity is 10 percent, and the low-temperature setting time is 10 minutes.
The western-style clothes obtained by the test examples are tested, and the test results are shown in the following table 2:
TABLE 2 influence of setting time and temperature of low temperature setting apparatus on non-ironing effect of western-style clothes
According to the data in the table 2, the setting temperature of the low-temperature setting equipment is 40-70 ℃ and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min under the condition of keeping the water content of the western-style clothes after the low-temperature setting is finished; when the setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment are within the range specified by the invention, the prepared business suit basically meets the standard requirements, has soft hand feeling, can keep the 3.5-4-level non-ironing effect, and can be subjected to machine washing, such as test examples 2-1, 2-2 and 2-3. When the temperature is lower than 35 ℃ specified by the invention, the setting time of the corresponding western-style clothes can be increased, so that the tearing strength and the washing size change rate of the manufactured western-style clothes do not meet the standard value, the warp slipping is 0.8cm in the seam combing degree, the weft slipping is 1.0cm and is far greater than the standard value, the appearance flatness and the appearance grade after washing and drying are also lower, and the hand feeling is harder; when the temperature is higher than the temperature of 80 ℃ specified by the invention, the tearing strength of the western-style clothes does not reach the standard value, the slippage of warp yarns in seam combing degree is 1.0cm, the slippage of weft yarns is 1.0cm, the requirements of the standard value are far greater, the appearance flatness and the appearance grade after washing and drying are lower, the hand feeling is dry and the comfort is poor. Therefore, the temperature and time of low-temperature setting can influence the non-ironing effect of the business suit, so that the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is selected to be 40-70 ℃, the relative humidity is 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time is the optimal choice for 10-30 min.
Test example 3
In order to test the influence of the water content of the western-style clothes on the non-ironing effect of the finished western-style clothes after the completion of the low-temperature setting equipment in the step S5, the fabric, the structure and the process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, wherein the difference is that the water content of the prepared western-style clothes is different due to the different time of the low-temperature setting in the step S5, and the conditions of different test cases in the step S5 are as follows:
test example 3-1: setting conditions of low-temperature setting equipment are that the temperature is 55 ℃, the relative humidity is 10%, the low-temperature setting time is 25min, and the water content of the western-style clothes is 10%;
test example 3-2: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 55 ℃, the relative humidity is 10%, the low-temperature setting time is 30min, and the water content of the western-style clothes is 7%.
Test example 3-3: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 55 ℃, the relative humidity is 10%, the low-temperature setting time is 15min, and the water content of the western-style clothes is 20%.
After the test example 3-1 and the test example 3-2 are taken out of the low temperature setting device, no obvious water gloss is formed on the surface of the suit, and after the test example 3-3 is taken out of the low temperature setting device, water stains can be touched in the lining of the suit, which indicates that part of the wash-and-wear finishing liquid is still unreacted and remains on the suit. The western-style clothes obtained in the test example are tested, the western-style clothes of the test example 3-1 and the western-style clothes of the test example 3-2 can meet the standard requirement, and the tearing strength, the washing size change rate, the seam combing degree, the appearance flatness after washing and drying and the appearance of the western-style clothes of the test example 3-3 do not meet the standard requirement.
Therefore, the dryness of the low-temperature shaping can influence the non-ironing effect of the business suit, the business suit has a certain thickness, the overall layout requirement is higher, if the dryness is insufficient, partial non-ironing finishing liquid is completely reacted, the shaping effect of the business suit is poor, the deformation of the business suit is large in the subsequent machine washing process, the machine washability can not be realized, circulating hot air can be formed in the low-temperature shaping equipment, the hot air can fully contact all parts of the clothing, the clothing shaping can be realized while the clothing can be quickly dried, the clothing ironing shaping is not needed after the drying is finished, the softness and the comfortableness of the dried clothing can be effectively improved, the business suit is particularly suitable for drying soft clothing, silk and wool, and the damage can be reduced. The water content of the business suit is controlled to ensure the non-ironing performance, and the water content of the business suit is optimally selected from 0 to 10 percent, such as 5 to 10 percent, after the low-temperature shaping equipment is finished.
Test example 4
In order to test the influence of the temperature of the non-ironing and quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment in the step S6 on the non-ironing effect of the finished western-style clothes, the fabric, the structure and the process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, and the conditions of different test cases in the step S6 are as follows:
test example 4-1: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at the temperature of 0 ℃ for 10min.
Test example 4-2: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 10 ℃ and the time is 8min.
Test example 4-3: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 25 ℃ for 120min.
The western-style clothes obtained by the test examples are tested, and the test results are shown in the following table 3:
TABLE 3 influence of temperature of non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing device on non-iron effect of western-style clothes
According to the data in the table 3, it can be seen that the temperature is too low or too high in the drying process of the finished product, and the full wool western-style clothes have larger influence on shrinkage, hand feeling and comber cracking, and cannot meet the standard requirements. The main component of the wool fiber is protein, the wool fiber cannot be dried at high temperature, and after the wool is subjected to high temperature, the yarn is easy to become brittle, and the tearing and combing degree are affected. Therefore, the low temperature of 70-80 ℃ is selected as the best choice for slow baking for 6-10 minutes. The business suit is cooled extremely fast in a freezer of the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment after being shaped at low temperature, and is beaten by gentle air, so that the non-ironing hand feeling is improved. So that the setting condition of the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment is that the temperature is-5-0 ℃ and the time is 6-12 min, which are the best choices.
Test example 5
In order to test the influence of the drying temperature of the finished product in the step S7 on the non-ironing effect of the finished western-style clothes, the fabric, the structure and the process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, and the difference is that the temperature in the step S7 is different from the conditions in the step S7 of different test cases as follows:
test example 5-1: the low-temperature setting equipment is set at 55 ℃ for 60min.
Test example 5-2: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 35 ℃ and the time is 100min.
Test example 5-3: the setting condition of the low-temperature setting equipment is that the temperature is 100 ℃ and the time is 50min.
The western-style clothes obtained in the above test examples were tested, and the test results are shown in table 4 below.
TABLE 4 influence of the drying temperature of the finished product on the permanent press effect of the western-style clothes
According to the data in the table 4, it can be seen that the temperature is too low or too high in the drying process of the finished product, and the full wool western-style clothes have larger influence on shrinkage, hand feeling and comber cracking, and cannot meet the standard requirements. The main component of the wool fiber is protein, the wool fiber cannot be dried at high temperature, and after the wool is subjected to high temperature, the yarn is easy to become brittle, and the tearing and combing degree are affected. So the setting condition of the finished product drying is that the temperature is 40-60 ℃ and the time is 60-90 min, and the drying to the full drying is the best choice.
Test example 6
In order to test the influence of the non-woven fabric lining arranged at the splicing seam in the step S14 on the non-ironing effect of the finished business suit, the fabric, the structure and the process of the embodiment 1 are adopted, the thickness of the non-woven fabric lining is 0.1-0.15cm, and the conditions of different test cases in the step S14 are as follows:
test example 6-1: the non-woven fabric lining is not arranged at the splice joint position;
test example 6-2: the splice joint is not provided with a layer of non-woven fabric lining.
The obtained business suit was tested, the business suit of test example 6-2 can meet the standard requirements, the appearance is shown in fig. 2, the tearing strength and seam combing degree of the business suit of test example 6-1 do not meet the standard requirements, the test results of other tests are shown in fig. 3, and the requirements of the water washing dimensional change rate, the appearance flatness after washing and drying, the seam appearance after washing and drying and the pleat appearance after washing and drying do not meet the standard requirements, and the business suit appearance is shown in fig. 4. The non-woven fabric lining is arranged at the joint position, and the strength of the joint position can be increased by arranging the non-woven fabric lining, so that the western-style clothes have good flatness after being washed by a machine.
Test example 7
In order to test the influence of shoulder cotton on the non-ironing effect of the finished western-style clothes in step S14, the fabric, structure and process of example 1 are adopted, and the conditions of different test cases in step S14 are as follows:
test example 7-1: the thickness of the shoulder cotton was 0.1cm using thin shoulder cotton.
Test example 7-2: the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.5cm.
The western-style clothes obtained in the above test examples were tested, and the test results are shown in table 5 below.
TABLE 5 influence of shoulder wool on the permanent press effect of western-style clothes
According to the data in the table 5, it can be seen that the western-style clothes using thin shoulder cotton can meet the standard requirements, the shoulder cotton is 0.5cm, when the thickness of the western-style clothes is too thick, the tearing strength, seam fraying degree and the water washing dimensional change rate of the western-style clothes can meet the standard requirements, the hand feeling is soft, but the appearance evenness after washing and drying and the seam appearance after washing and drying cannot meet the standard requirements, because the thickness of the shoulder part of the western-style clothes is larger than that of other parts after washing and drying, the shoulder part of the western-style clothes is longer in the drying process, the evenness of the western-style clothes is poorer, the shoulder part of the western-style clothes can be guaranteed to be pulled up when the thin shoulder cotton is used, and meanwhile, the shoulder part drying time of the western-style clothes is reduced, the thin shoulder cotton which can be washed by a machine is not easy to deform, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced.
Test example 8
In order to test the influence of the low-temperature setting step in the step S5 on the non-ironing effect of the finished business suit, the specific preparation steps are as follows:
step S1, sewing the western-style clothes; the sewing of the western-style clothes is the same as that of the embodiment 1;
s2, spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid to enable the liquid carrying rate of the business suit to reach 80%;
s3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, wherein the water content of the pre-dried business suit is controlled to be 10%; the conditions of low-temperature pre-drying are as follows: the temperature is 50 ℃ and the time is 40min;
s4, pressing and presetting the business suit;
s5, finishing the business suit in non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment; setting the temperature of the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment to be 0 ℃ for 10min;
and S6, washing, finishing and drying to obtain the business suit.
The western-style clothes obtained in the above test examples were tested, and the test results are shown in table 6 below.
TABLE 6 influence of Low temperature setting on the easy-care effect of western-style clothes
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According to the data in the table 6, it can be seen that the seam appearance test after the washing and drying and the appearance evenness after the washing and drying of the western-style clothes which are not prepared by the low-temperature shaping step can all meet the standard requirements, and the hand feeling is hard and can not meet the standard of the machine washable western-style clothes. The low-temperature setting step is a key step for preparing the machine-washable non-ironing western-style clothes of wool, the western-style clothes can be fully unfolded in the step, and the non-ironing finishing liquid in the western-style clothes can be used for setting the western-style clothes better, so that the western-style clothes are not easy to deform in the subsequent machine washing process.
Test example 9
The western-style clothes of the embodiment are manufactured by a method similar to that disclosed in patent publication No. CN 114903233A, and specifically comprises the following steps:
step S1, sewing the western-style clothes; the sewing of the suit is the same as in example 1.
And S2, washing with water and finishing with wash-and-wear liquid.
S3, pre-drying; the pre-drying temperature is 50-60 ℃; the time is 15-20 min; the water content of the western-style clothes is controlled to be 20-30%.
S4, pre-ironing and pressing; the pre-ironing temperature is 70-80 ℃; wherein the pre-ironing is to exhaust air 1-3 from the ironing table of the business suit; the pressing time is controlled to be 8-12 seconds.
S5, low-temperature slow baking and shaping treatment; baking for 10-15 minutes at the temperature of 70-80 ℃ and controlling the water content of the western-style clothes to be 10-20%;
s6, freezing and dehumidifying; dehumidifying for 6-12 minutes at the temperature of 0-4 ℃ to reduce the water content of the suit to 0-5%, namely keeping the suit substantially dry.
S7, washing a finished product;
step S8, drying the finished product, and drying at 50-60 ℃ for 60-70 minutes to dry the western-style clothes;
and S9, ironing the finished product to obtain the machine washable non-ironing business suit.
The obtained western-style clothes are tested, the tearing strength and seam combing degree of the western-style clothes do not reach the standard value, the test results of other tests are shown in fig. 5, and the requirements that the water washing size change rate, the appearance flatness after washing and drying, the seam appearance after washing and drying and the pleat appearance after washing and drying do not reach the standard value can be seen from the figure.
The structure of the western-style clothes and the western-style trousers are different, the number of lining and pulling parts of the western-style clothes is large, and the requirements are different, and the whole wool machine washable non-ironing western-style clothes meeting the standard requirements can not be prepared by adopting the same process as the western-style trousers or adaptively adjusting the process of the western-style trousers. According to the invention, different temperatures and times are used for improving the hand feeling and the careless degree of cracking through different tests, so that a targeted optimal design western-style clothes manufacturing scheme is obtained, and the technical parameters specified by the invention are adopted to enable the western-style clothes to form a stable structure, so that the western-style clothes have excellent non-ironing and machine washability, can keep a good pattern after being washed for a plurality of times, have softer hand feeling, and further improve the quality of the western-style clothes.
The foregoing description of the preferred embodiments of the invention is not intended to be limiting, but rather is intended to cover all modifications, equivalents, and alternatives falling within the spirit and principles of the invention.
Claims (10)
1. The manufacturing method of the machine washable non-ironing woolen suit is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
step S1, sewing the western-style clothes; the method specifically comprises the following steps:
s11, performing shrink-proof treatment on wool fabric cut pieces and adhesive liners, wherein the wool fabric contains more than 80% of wool;
step S12, saving and returning to the original position; the number of the plucking treatment is 0.4-1 cm;
s13, performing chest interlining and vehicle panel strip on the western-style clothes;
s14, carrying out compound noodles and turning over and ironing the seam allowance, then sewing a swing seam, making a bottom edge and closing a shoulder seam;
s15, collar and sleeve mounting processes are carried out;
s16, ironing the business suit, and then nailing buttons;
s2, spraying the wash-and-wear finishing liquid to enable the liquid carrying rate of the business suit to reach 70-90%;
s3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, wherein the water content of the pre-dried business suit is controlled to be 20-30%;
s4, pressing and presetting the business suit;
s5, sleeving the business suit into a three-dimensional humanoid clothes rack, and placing the business suit into low-temperature setting equipment for dehumidifying and drying, wherein the water content of the business suit is 0-10% after finishing;
s6, finishing the business suit in non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment;
and S7, washing, finishing and drying to obtain the machine-washable wash-and-wear suit.
2. The method for manufacturing a machine washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 1, characterized in that the woolen fabric is a full wool fabric.
3. The method for manufacturing the machine-washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 2, wherein the bus used in the taking-up and saving is shrink-proof core-spun polyester yarn, and the single-line breaking strength of the bus is not lower than 720cN/50cm.
4. The method for manufacturing the machine washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 2, characterized in that the number of the plucking treatments is 0.5-0.8 cm.
5. The method for manufacturing machine washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 2, characterized in that in step S13, a layer of non-woven fabric lining is coated on the front chest in the chest coating, and the vehicle filler rod is reversely folded at the lapel of the suit.
6. The method for manufacturing the machine-washable non-ironing woolen business suit according to claim 2, wherein in the step S14, thin shoulder cotton which can be machine-washed is adopted in the shoulder seam, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15cm.
7. The method for manufacturing a machine washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 2, wherein in step S14, a layer of non-woven fabric lining is provided at the splice seam.
8. The method for manufacturing machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit according to claim 1, characterized in that in step S5, the setting conditions of the low temperature setting device are 40-70 ℃, the relative humidity is 10-20%, and the low temperature setting time is 10-30 min.
9. The method for manufacturing machine-washable non-ironing woolen suit according to claim 1, characterized in that in step S6, the non-ironing and quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment is set at a temperature of-5-0 ℃ for a time of 6-12 nin.
10. A machine washable non-ironing woolen suit, characterized in that the suit is processed by the method for manufacturing the machine washable non-ironing woolen suit according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
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| CN202310454880.9A CN116725272A (en) | 2023-04-25 | 2023-04-25 | Machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit and manufacturing method thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN202310454880.9A CN116725272A (en) | 2023-04-25 | 2023-04-25 | Machine washable non-ironing woolen business suit and manufacturing method thereof |
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