CN111743218B - Machine washable wool western-style clothes and sewing method thereof - Google Patents
Machine washable wool western-style clothes and sewing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111743218B CN111743218B CN202010663864.7A CN202010663864A CN111743218B CN 111743218 B CN111743218 B CN 111743218B CN 202010663864 A CN202010663864 A CN 202010663864A CN 111743218 B CN111743218 B CN 111743218B
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- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 58
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 48
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 96
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000741 silica gel Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910002027 silica gel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004840 adhesive resin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920006223 adhesive resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000005611 electricity Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000007723 die pressing method Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 5
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 11
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 11
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 8
- 235000012149 noodles Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 3
- 208000024780 Urticaria Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 230000003014 reinforcing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000832 Cutin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001730 Moisture cure polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005660 chlorination reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001066 destructive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005108 dry cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010030 laminating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000877 morphologic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012466 permeate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003672 processing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/02—Jackets
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/12—Shields or protectors
- A41D27/16—Collar-shields
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
- A41D27/245—Hems; Seams made by welding or gluing
Abstract
The utility model relates to a technical field of western-style clothes manufacturing process relates to a but wool western-style clothes is washed to machine and sewing method, its main technical scheme is but wool western-style clothes is washed to machine, including the western-style clothes body, but the western-style clothes body uses the wool surface fabric of machine to wash to tailor and forms, the western-style clothes body includes main part and coat-sleeve, the hem department of the inboard of lower hem of main part is provided with the hole of permeating water, main part lower border department the cuff border of coat-sleeve all is equipped with thin lining, but thin lining is made by machine washing lining cloth. The application has the following effects: when the machine washing is carried out, the bonding lining cloth can effectively stabilize the business form structure and the three-dimensional sense of the business suit, and after the water permeable holes are formed, the water backlog falling generated between the fabric and the lining material in the machine washing process can be effectively reduced, so that the possibility of business suit deformation and lining cloth breakage is caused, water is discharged through the water permeable holes, and the comprehensive safety guarantee is provided for the non-deformation after the machine washing.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of western-style clothes manufacturing processes, in particular to machine washable wool western-style clothes and a sewing method thereof.
Background
Western-style clothes are popular with people due to the characteristics of attractive design, concise and smooth lines, strong stereoscopic impression, wide adaptability and the like, and almost become universal clothes.
At present, the suit jacket is mostly made of mixed fabrics such as wool and cashmere, and the wool and cashmere fabrics have water shrinkage, and the wool fibers of the suit jacket can be damaged when the suit jacket is washed by a washing machine, so that the suit jacket is seriously shrunk and deformed after being washed by water. In addition, the machine washing can be very destructive to the suit jacket, so that the surface of the fabric can be damaged, and the neat version of the suit jacket can be damaged, so that the whole suit jacket is deformed.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problem that the suit is easy to deform during machine washing, the application provides a wool suit capable of being machine washed.
In a first aspect, the present application provides a machine washable wool western-style clothes, which adopts the following technical scheme: the utility model provides a but wool western-style clothes of machine washing, includes the western-style clothes body, but the western-style clothes body uses machine washing wool surface fabric to tailor and forms, the western-style clothes body includes main part and coat-sleeve, the inboard welt department of lower hem of main part is provided with the hole that permeates water, main part lower border department the cuff border of coat-sleeve all is equipped with thin lining, but thin lining is made by machine washing lining cloth.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the western-style clothes body is through the wool surface fabric preparation that can machine wash to but the bonding of the place that the western-style clothes was wrinkled easily can machine wash bonding lining cloth, when carrying out machine wash, bonding lining cloth can stabilize business form structure and third dimension effectively, sets up the hole of permeating water simultaneously after, can reduce the water backlog whereabouts that produces in the middle of shell fabric and lining in the machine wash process effectively, leads to the possibility that the business suit warp and lining break, lets water pass through the hole of permeating water discharge, for the non-deformable omnidirectional safety guarantee that provides after the machine wash.
Preferably, the main body comprises a front garment piece, side pieces, a rear garment piece and a collar, wherein the collar and the front garment piece are all covered and bonded with the thin lining, and the water permeable holes are positioned at the lower edges of the front garment piece, the side pieces and the rear garment piece.
By adopting the technical scheme, after the collar and the front garment piece are fully covered, the thin lining can increase the shaping capability of the collar and the front garment piece, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced during machine washing.
Preferably, the water permeable holes are equidistantly arranged, the diameter of each water permeable hole is 6-10mm, and the number of the water permeable holes is 5-10.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, ponding in the machine washing process will follow the extension direction of lower hem and evenly discharge, and even drainage can make the atress of lower hem comparatively even, reduces the possibility that lower hem leads to deformation because of dragging in the machine washing process.
Preferably, the inner side of the front garment piece is also provided with a lining, and the lining is made of machine washable lining cloth.
By adopting the technical scheme, the front chest part of the front garment piece can be supported, and the thickness of the front chest part can be increased, so that the business suit is more three-dimensional and straight.
Preferably, the machine washable wool fabric comprises warp yarns and weft yarns which are interwoven, the warp yarns and the weft yarns are all high-count wool all-wool yarns or blended yarns, the fineness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is 50S-60S, 80S/2 or 90S/2, the warp density is 80-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarn density is 60-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarns are core spun yarns, the core spun yarns take spandex as core yarns and high-count mercerized wool as outer package fibers, the warp yarns adopt 90N strands, the weft yarns adopt 90N strand core spun 70D spandex, and the gram weight of the machine washable wool fabric is 200-310 g/m2.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, wool fiber's main component is the stratum corneum, accounts for about 90% in whole fibre, owing to the existence of scale layer to make wool have the characteristic of felting, warp and weft yarn between stable in structure and be difficult for sliding, the difficult hardening of wool scale is difficult for felting, is difficult for playing the ball of wool after the washing, reduces the fold phenomenon.
In a second aspect, the present application provides a sewing method for machine washable wool western-style clothes, which adopts the following technical scheme: the machine washable wool fabric is used for sewing, and the method comprises the following steps:
comprises a thin liner, wherein the thin liner is adhered on the whole front piece of the garment piece, and the collar surface, the collar seat, the cuffs, the back piece and the lower hem of the side piece are all adhered with the thin liner;
a chest lining is covered, a layer of lining is adhered to the chest part of the front piece in a compound way, and meanwhile, a draw-in belt is added on the lapel line for shaping the lapel;
a front piece process, namely sewing the front piece and the side end seam allowance of the side piece, opening a front bag, sewing and fixing a bag cover, opening a towel bag, sewing and fixing the towel bag, and ironing the front piece;
a back piece process, namely sewing a back midline, putting back pieces after pulling, splitting back seams, pulling arm-lock stay bars, and then making back piece lining cloth;
a sewing process, wherein buttonholes are used as water permeable holes on the welt of the rear garment piece;
shoulder seam process, fixing and tying shoulder seam, sewing shoulder seam at upper ends of the front and back pieces, pulling back, and fixing and tying;
collar making and collar mounting processes;
sleeve making and sleeve mounting processes;
and (5) button holes are formed, buttons are nailed, and then the whole suit is finished.
By adopting the technical scheme, the process of sewing the cotton-flax shoulder pad and the front chest wool lining is adopted in the traditional western-style clothes, the two processes are respectively used for shaping the shoulder and the chest structures, the overall appearance morphological effect of the western-style clothes is not changed, the traditional cotton-flax shoulder pad and the front chest wool lining are omitted, the thin lining and the lining are arranged at the collar and the front chest, the shoulder pad is not needed for shaping, the sewing of the front chest wool lining is replaced by the bonding lining process, the sewing is simpler, faster and more effective, the chest structure modeling of the western-style clothes is kept unchanged, and the western-style clothes is more three-dimensional and full and straight.
Preferably, the machine washable wool fabric adopts wool fabric added with a tensile aid and subjected to shrink-proof finishing.
By adopting the technical scheme, the tensile auxiliary agent is added to ensure that the wool surface layer is not easy to felt, and the wool fabric subjected to shrink-proof finishing can ensure that the western-style clothes is not easy to shrink.
Preferably, the lining and the thin lining are made of machine washable lining cloth, and the manufacturing process comprises the following steps: preparing a base cloth; refining; finishing; and (3) binding resin.
By adopting the technical scheme, after the fabric, the lining and the thin lining are subjected to high-temperature composite shaping, the fabric is kept not to deform, deglue and shell after being washed by a washing machine, and the shrinkage is the same as that of the fabric.
Preferably, in the step of bonding the thin lining, the thin lining needs to be subjected to composite shaping with the bonded fabric, and in the step of covering the chest lining, the lining needs to be subjected to high-temperature pressing shaping with the front garment piece.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, through compound design and high temperature pressing design, can make thin lining and inside lining more firm bonding on the surface fabric, can also keep the laminating state with the surface fabric after washing many times, reduce the possibility of deformation.
Preferably, the high-temperature ironing and shaping in the step of covering the chest interlining is performed by special high-temperature silica gel arc-shaped die ironing equipment, the equipment is set at 130-155 ℃, the pressure intensity is 0.1-0.3MPa, and the time is controlled to be 15-18 seconds.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, through this kind of processing method, can make the inside lining be better by the bonding on the front garment piece, improve firm in connection.
In summary, the present application includes at least one of the following beneficial technical effects:
1. according to the western-style clothes, the thin lining is added on the western-style clothes body during machine washing, so that the western-style clothes body can be supported during machine washing, water can be timely discharged through the water permeable holes during machine washing, and therefore the possibility of deformation of the western-style clothes body during machine washing is integrally reduced;
2. by changing the modeling structure of the suit and the traditional sewing technology, the traditional cotton-flax shoulder pad and the traditional chest-flax lining are omitted, and the adhesive lining cloth which is suitable for machine washing is used for stabilizing the plate type structure and the third dimension of the suit, and the suit is made of polyester materials with good recovery property, the shrinkage rate of the suit is the same as that of the fabric for manufacturing the suit, and after the suit is subjected to high-temperature composite shaping with the fabric, the suit is kept not to deform, deglue and shell after washing.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the front construction of a machine washable western-style garment of the present application;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the back structure of the machine washable western-style clothes of the present application;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of an open structure of the machine washable western-style clothes of the present application showing water permeable holes;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the structure of the bonding sites of the machine washable western-style clothes of the present application.
Reference numerals illustrate: 100. a western-style clothes body; 110. a main body; 111. a front panel; 112. a side panel; 113. a rear garment piece; 114. a collar; 120. sleeves; 121. a small sleeve piece; 122. a large sleeve piece; 130. the waist is saved; 140. a bag cover; 150. a towel bag; 160. fine dried noodles; 200. a water permeable hole; 300. a thin liner; 400. and (5) lining.
Detailed Description
The present application is described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
The embodiment of the application discloses can machine wash western-style clothes, refer to fig. 1, fig. 2, including western-style clothes body 100, western-style clothes body 100 includes main part 110 and coat sleeve 120, wherein main part 110 includes preceding clothing piece 111, side piece 112, back clothing piece 113 and collar 114, coat sleeve 120 includes sleeve piece 121 and big sleeve piece 122, preceding clothing piece 111 symmetry is provided with two, back clothing piece 113 symmetry is provided with two, side piece 112 is located between the preceding clothing piece 111 and the back clothing piece 113 of every side, two back clothing pieces 113 are connected through the back centre joint, and preceding clothing piece 111, side piece 112 and back clothing piece 113 are sewn in proper order, still have waist province 130 on the preceding clothing piece 111 simultaneously, all have pocket cover 140 on two preceding clothing pieces 111, and have towel pocket 150 in one side of western-style clothes body 100, be equipped with vermicelli 160 below collar 114.
Referring to fig. 3, water permeable holes 200 are formed at the lower edges of the front panel 111, the side panels 112 and the rear panel 113, the water permeable holes 200 are positioned at the welt of the inner side of the lower hem of the main body 110, the water permeable holes 200 are equidistantly arranged, the diameter of the water permeable holes 200 is 6-10mm, the number of the water permeable holes 200 is 5-10, the water permeable holes 200 are arranged to prevent water generated in the middle of fabric and lining from drooping in the machine washing process, so that the deformation of the suit and the breakage of the lining are caused, water is discharged through the chrysanthemum-shaped water permeable holes 200, and omnibearing safety guarantee is provided for the non-deformation after the machine washing.
Referring to fig. 4, a gusset 300 is adhered to the lower edge of the main body 110 and the cuff edge of the sleeve 120, and the gusset 300 is made of a machine washable gusset, and the gusset 300 is adhered to the neck collar 114 and the front panel 111 in a full-coverage manner. Meanwhile, the inner side of the front garment piece 111 is also provided with an inner lining 400, the inner lining 400 is made of machine washable lining cloth, and the inner lining 400 is also adhered to the front garment piece 111.
Compared with the prior lining process of the traditional suit, the three lining processes are mainly used, namely a full-wool lining process, a half Mao Chen lining process and a common adhesive lining suit process, wherein the three lining processes are only dry-cleaning, water-washing and machine-washing, the self structure of the lining 400 can be damaged after water is met, the performance of the lining is changed, and the scientific modeling structural design of the suit can be directly damaged, so that the lining is deformed and can not be worn. The special adhesive lining cloth which is specially designed for the western-style clothes and is suitable for machine washability is used, after the special adhesive lining cloth is combined with the western-style clothes fabric through special equipment and a clothing process, the plate type structure and the three-dimensional sense of the western-style clothes can be effectively stabilized, the smoothness and the fullness of the western-style clothes are kept unchanged, the western-style clothes are made of polyester materials with good restorability through a plurality of special processes, the shrinkage rate of the polyester materials after washing with a washing machine is the same as that of the fabric for making the western-style clothes, and after the polyester materials are combined with the fabric effectively through special high-temperature pressing equipment, the western-style clothes are prevented from deforming in appearance structure of the western-style clothes, the lining process is prevented from degluing and foaming, the western-style clothes can achieve the washing effect, the maintenance process and the cost are simplified, and the use value of the western-style clothes is improved.
The western-style clothes body 100 is formed by cutting machine-washable wool fabric, the machine-washable wool fabric comprises warp yarns and weft yarns which are interwoven, the warp yarns and the weft yarns adopt high-count wool all-wool yarns or blended yarns, the fineness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is 50S-60S, 80S/2 or 90S/2, the warp yarn density is 80-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarn density is 60-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarns are core-spun yarns, the core-spun yarns take spandex as core yarns and high-count mercerized wool as outer-spun fibers, the warp yarns adopt 90N strands, the weft yarns adopt 90N strand core-spun 70D spandex, and the gram weight of the machine-washable wool fabric is 200-310 g/m < 2 >. The main component of wool fibers is the stratum corneum (the scale layer), which accounts for about 90% of the total fiber, and wool has felting properties due to the scale layer. The tensile aid (acid chlorination) is added into the wool fibers, so that the tips of the wool scales are softened and passivated, namely the scale cutin of the wool is eroded, but the essence of the wool fibers is not damaged, thereby reducing the difference of friction coefficients among the fibers, and enabling the surface layer of the wool to be changed and not easy to felt. Meanwhile, the fabric adopts polyurethane prepolymer to carry out shrink-proof finishing, and the weaving structure of warp and weft yarns is stabilized, and the auxiliary agent is a water-soluble heat-reactive shrink-proof finishing agent, is particularly suitable for shrink-proof finishing of wool fabrics, ensures the original property of wool after the auxiliary agent is used, obtains excellent shrink-proof finishing effect, and ensures that the fabric is not easy to shrink after being made into a suit.
Based on the machine washable western-style clothes, the embodiment of the application also discloses a sewing method of the machine washable western-style clothes, which uses machine washable wool fabric for sewing and comprises the following steps:
comprises a thin liner 300, wherein the thin liner 300 is adhered to the whole front garment piece 111, and the thin liner 300 is adhered to the collar surface, collar seat, cuffs and the lower hem of the back and side panels 112;
a chest lining is covered, a layer of lining 400 is adhered to the chest part of the front garment piece 111 in a compound way, and meanwhile, a draw-off belt is added on a lapel line for shaping a lapel;
a front piece process, wherein the front piece 111 and the side ends of the side pieces 112 are sewn, a front bag is opened, a bag cover 140 is sewn and fixed, a towel bag 150 is opened, the towel bag 150 is sewn and fixed, and then the front piece 111 is put back into the hot state;
pulling out the dried noodles 160, splicing the inner pieces, making inner bags, and covering the dried noodles 160;
a back piece process, namely sewing a back midline, pulling back pieces 113, splitting back seams, pulling arm-lock stay bars, and then making back piece lining cloth;
a sewing process, namely sewing a lining sewing process, a face fabric sewing process, dripping needles, then making welts, and sewing buttonholes on welts of the rear garment pieces 113 to serve as water permeable holes 200;
shoulder seam process, fixing and tying shoulder seams, sewing shoulder seams at the upper ends of the front garment piece 111 and the back piece, pulling back, and fixing and tying;
the collar and collar assembling process, the collar lining, the collar face, the collar seam allowance, the fine dried noodles 160 and the collar face serial port line are sewn, the front piece and the collar lining serial port line are sewn, the collar face and the collar ring of the coat body are sewn, the collar lining and the collar 114 are sewn, and the collar unfilled corner is further made, so that the sewing of the collar 114 is completed;
the process of making and installing the sleeves comprises the steps of firstly, pulling out large pieces of the sleeves, sewing an inner sleeve seam, pulling out the inner sleeve seam, buckling and scalding the edges of the sleeves, making sleeve cuffs, sewing an outer sleeve surface seam, collecting the sleeve mountain to eat, making the sleeve, fixing and binding the sleeves, sewing the sleeves, and then carrying out the binding and scalding to complete sewing of the sleeves 120;
and (5) button holes are formed, buttons are nailed, and then the whole suit is finished.
When the chest lining is covered, after a layer of lining 400 is compositely adhered to the front chest part of the front garment piece 111, high-temperature ironing and shaping are needed, the operation is carried out through special high-temperature silica gel arc-shaped die ironing equipment, the equipment is set at the temperature of 130-155 ℃, the pressure intensity is 0.1-0.3MPa, the time is controlled to be 15-18 seconds, and the high-temperature ironing and shaping are carried out, so that the front chest is more three-dimensional and plump. The machine washable adhesive lining cloth and the bottom layer surface of the front garment piece 111 are mutually pressed to firmly attach the machine washable adhesive lining cloth and the bottom layer surface of the front garment piece to the machine washable adhesive lining cloth, so that the machine washable adhesive lining cloth does not fall off or foam, is not easy to shrink and deform after being washed by a water machine, and does not have the phenomenon of uneven wrinkles.
The traditional western-style clothes are sewn by a technological process of sewing the cotton-flax shoulder pad and the chest hair lining, the two procedures are respectively used for shaping the shoulder and the chest structure, the traditional cotton-flax shoulder pad and the chest hair lining are omitted, the shoulder structure is directly shaped by professional high-temperature silica gel pressing shaping equipment after being sewn, and the shoulder pad is not needed for shaping. The sewing of the chest interlining is replaced by the bonding interlining procedure, so that the sewing is simpler, quicker and more effective, and meanwhile, the chest structure of the western-style clothes can be kept unchanged, and the western-style clothes are more three-dimensional, full and upright.
The front chest inner liner 400 is specially used for preventing the front piece 111 from being taken off and sewn, the surface appearance of the suit is free from exposing stitch, and the sewing is hidden in the inner liner, so that the appearance of the suit is not affected; the collar part of the suit and the lining 400 at the lapel 7 are reinforced and anti-drop treated by anti-drop sewing threads in the bonding and sewing process, and the threads are hidden inside the collar and the fine dried noodles 160 and are not exposed, thus playing a role of fixing the lining 400 and preventing washing water from dropping; the full wrapping seam lockstitch in the chest pocket and the inserting pocket is used for reinforcing the anti-drop sewing process, the pocket part is more tightly attached to the front garment piece 111 through the upper and lower sewing seams, and the wrapping seam is a hidden line, so that the appearance of the western-style clothes is not affected; the full-overseam seam-locking and edge-locking anti-drop sewing technology for the positions of the sleeve and the body lining and the lower hem is a technology for reinforcing the fabric and the lining by sewing threads up and down through a special overseam machine, wherein the threads are hidden in the lining and covered by the threads.
There is also a collecting channel between the adhesive thin liner 300 and the chest-covering liner, the collecting channel comprises collecting chest and ironing separately, collecting waist and ironing separately 130, and in structural design, the transformation distribution of the chest collecting channel structure is more scientifically optimized, so that the chest structure is more stereoscopic and shaped.
The bonding lining is to bond the chemical fiber and the woolen fiber (i.e. the fabric) together by high temperature, thereby producing a certain shaping effect for the suit by the chemical fiber. The bonding lining is sewn reasonably and time-saving, reduces labor cost, is suitable for assembly line production, and realizes high efficiency. The appearance is beautiful, and the lines are smooth. The wearing can not deform, the hand feeling style of the garment is maintained, and the garment is convenient to manage.
Wherein liner 400 and slipsheet 300 are both made of machine washable linersheet, the manufacturing process comprises the steps of:
(1) Preparing a base fabric: selecting polyester long fiber yarns, and weaving to obtain base cloth;
(2) Refining: adding water and 2.0-4.5 g/L desizing agent into a liquid cylinder of a refiner to prepare refining liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 26-28: 1, a step of; after the temperature is raised to 55-72 ℃, the base cloth is put into a liquid cylinder, so that the refining liquid and the base cloth rotate in the liquid cylinder for 6-10 minutes in a circulating way; then heating to 85-100 ℃, refining for 30-60 minutes, discharging refining liquid, adding cold water, washing, and taking out the base cloth;
(3) And (3) finishing: adding water, 1.5-2.5 g/L of waterproof agent and 0.2-0.6 g/L of static electricity preventing agent into a liquid tank of a finishing machine to prepare finishing liquid, wherein the finishing liquid is soaked in the base cloth, and the rolling residual rate is 60% -75%; drying and shaping the base cloth in a drying and shaping machine at a speed of 30-40 m/min, wherein the drying and shaping chamber comprises eight shaping chambers, the temperature of each shaping chamber is respectively 100-130 ℃ in the first chamber, 100-130 ℃ in the second chamber, 140-180 ℃ in the third chamber, 140-180 ℃ in the fourth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the fifth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the sixth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the seventh chamber, and 160-200 ℃ in the eighth chamber;
(4) Adhesive resin: the finished base cloth passes through the middle of the roller and the net drum, and the base slurry comes out of the meshes of the net drum and is stuck on the base cloth in a punctiform manner; continuing to the powdering device, and powdering a layer of powdery 2P resin; then uniformly scattering the powdery 2P resin on the base cloth through the vibration of a vibration device; then sucking out the redundant powdery 2P resin between the punctiform slurry by an air pump and a recovery device, so that the powdery 2P resin is uniformly distributed on the surface of the base cloth in punctiform; infrared heating is carried out on the base cloth bonded with the dot-shaped 2P resin, and the heating temperature is as follows: drying and fixing the 2P resin on the surface of the base cloth at the temperature of 250-270 ℃; tentering and shaping the base cloth subjected to infrared heating in a tenter, wherein the tenter shaping temperature is 150-170 ℃, and the speed of the tenter is: 10-20 m/min, and the gate width is 125-150 cm; the bottom slurry is a mixture of NT200 slurry and 2PSUS slurry, and the weight ratio of NT200 slurry to 2PSUS slurry is 1-2:1.
The machine washable lining cloth obtained by the manufacturing process has ultrahigh adhesive force, can realize the retention rate of the adhesive force reaching more than 80 percent after being washed for multiple times under the high-temperature washing condition of more than 85 ℃, and is not easy to deform and shrink.
The embodiments of the present invention are all preferred embodiments of the present application, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present application in this way, therefore: all equivalent changes in structure, shape and principle of this application should be covered in the protection scope of this application.
Claims (4)
1. The utility model provides a but sewing method of machine washable wool western-style clothes, includes western-style clothes body (100), its characterized in that: the western-style clothes body (100) is formed by cutting machine washable wool fabric, the western-style clothes body (100) comprises a main body (110) and sleeves (120), water permeable holes (200) are formed in the welt position of the inner side of the lower hem of the main body (110), thin liners (300) are arranged at the lower edge of the main body (110) and at the cuff edges of the sleeves (120), and the thin liners (300) are made of machine washable lining cloth;
the main body (110) comprises a front garment piece (111), side panels (112), a rear garment piece (113) and a collar (114), wherein the thin lining (300) is adhered to the collar (114) and the front garment piece (111) in a full-coverage manner, and the water permeable holes (200) are formed in the lower edges of the front garment piece (111), the side panels (112) and the rear garment piece (113);
an inner lining (400) is further arranged on the inner side of the front garment piece (111), and the inner lining (400) is made of machine washable lining cloth;
the machine washable wool fabric is used for sewing, and the method comprises the following steps:
comprises a thin sticking lining (300), wherein the thin sticking lining (300) is stuck on the whole front garment piece (111), and the thin sticking lining (300) is stuck on the collar surface, collar seat, cuffs and the lower hem of the back piece and the side piece (112);
a chest lining, a layer of lining (400) is adhered to the chest part of the front piece (111) in a compound way, and simultaneously, a draw-in belt is added on the lapel line for shaping the lapel;
a front piece process, wherein the front piece (111) and the side ends of the side pieces (112) are sewed, a front bag is opened, a bag cover (140) is sewed and fixed, a towel bag (150) is opened, the towel bag (150) is sewed and fixed, and then the front piece (111) is ironed;
a back piece process, namely sewing a back midline, putting back a back piece (113), splitting back seams, pulling arm-lock stay bars, and then making back piece lining cloth;
a sewing process, wherein buttonholes are used as water permeable holes (200) on the welt of the rear garment piece (113);
shoulder seam process, fixing and tying shoulder seam, sewing shoulder seam at the upper ends of the front garment piece (111) and the back piece, pulling back, and fixing and tying;
collar making and collar mounting processes;
sleeve making and sleeve mounting processes;
button holes are locked, buttons are nailed, and then whole western-style clothes are finished;
the machine washable wool fabric adopts wool fabric which is added with a tensile additive and subjected to shrink-proof finishing;
the lining (400) and the thin lining (300) are both made of machine washable lining cloth, and the manufacturing process comprises the following steps: preparing a base cloth; refining; finishing; a binder resin;
preparing a base fabric: selecting polyester long fiber yarns, and weaving to obtain base cloth;
refining: adding water and 2.0-4.5 g/L desizing agent into a liquid cylinder of a refiner to prepare refining liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 26-28: 1, a step of; after the temperature is raised to 55-72 ℃, the base cloth is put into a liquid cylinder, so that the refining liquid and the base cloth rotate in the liquid cylinder for 6-10 minutes in a circulating way; then heating to 85-100 ℃, refining for 30-60 minutes, discharging refining liquid, adding cold water, washing, and taking out the base cloth;
and (3) finishing: adding water, 1.5-2.5 g/L of waterproof agent and 0.2-0.6 g/L of static electricity preventing agent into a liquid tank of a finishing machine to prepare finishing liquid, wherein the finishing liquid is soaked in the base cloth, and the rolling residual rate is 60% -75%; drying and shaping the base cloth in a drying and shaping machine at a speed of 30-40 m/min, wherein the drying and shaping chamber comprises eight shaping chambers, the temperature of each shaping chamber is respectively 100-130 ℃ in the first chamber, 100-130 ℃ in the second chamber, 140-180 ℃ in the third chamber, 140-180 ℃ in the fourth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the fifth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the sixth chamber, 160-200 ℃ in the seventh chamber, and 160-200 ℃ in the eighth chamber;
adhesive resin: the finished base cloth passes through the middle of the roller and the net drum, and the base slurry comes out of the meshes of the net drum and is stuck on the base cloth in a punctiform manner; continuing to the powdering device, and powdering a layer of powdery 2P resin; then uniformly scattering the powdery 2P resin on the base cloth through the vibration of a vibration device; then sucking out the redundant powdery 2P resin between the punctiform slurry by an air pump and a recovery device, so that the powdery 2P resin is uniformly distributed on the surface of the base cloth in punctiform; infrared heating is carried out on the base cloth bonded with the dot-shaped 2P resin, and the heating temperature is as follows: drying and fixing the 2P resin on the surface of the base cloth at the temperature of 250-270 ℃; tentering and shaping the base cloth subjected to infrared heating in a tenter, wherein the tenter shaping temperature is 150-170 ℃, and the speed of the tenter is: 10-20 m/min, and the gate width is 125-150 cm; the bottom slurry is a mixture of NT200 slurry and 2PSUS slurry, and the weight ratio of NT200 slurry to 2PSUS slurry is 1-2: 1, a step of;
in the step of adhering the thin lining (300), the thin lining (300) needs to be subjected to composite shaping with the adhered fabric, and in the step of covering the chest lining, the lining (400) needs to be subjected to high-temperature pressing shaping with the front garment piece (111).
2. The sewing method of machine washable wool western-style clothes of claim 1, wherein: the water permeable holes (200) are equidistantly arranged, the diameter of each water permeable hole (200) is 6-10mm, and the number of the water permeable holes (200) is 5-10.
3. The sewing method of machine washable wool western-style clothes of claim 1, wherein: the machine washable wool fabric comprises warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are interwoven by high-count wool all-wool yarns or blended yarns, the fineness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is 50S-60S, 80S/2 or 90S/2, the warp yarn density is 80-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarn density is 60-120 pieces/inch, the weft yarns are core spun yarns, the core spun yarns take spandex as core yarns and high-count mercerized wool as outer wrapping fibers, the warp yarns adopt 90N strands, the weft yarns adopt 90N strand core spun 70D spandex, and the gram weight of the machine washable wool fabric is 200-310 g/m < 2 >.
4. The sewing method of machine washable wool western-style clothes of claim 1, wherein: the high-temperature pressing and shaping step in the chest interlining is carried out by a special high-temperature silica gel arc-shaped die pressing device, the device is set to be 130-155 ℃, the pressure intensity is 0.1-0.3MPa, and the time is controlled to be 15-18 seconds.
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| CN112471648A (en) * | 2020-11-23 | 2021-03-12 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing three-dimensional lapel of western-style clothes |
| CN112773031B (en) * | 2021-01-20 | 2023-02-03 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving curling problem of knitted shirt |
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| CN101797075A (en) * | 2010-03-11 | 2010-08-11 | 宁波雅戈尔英成制服有限公司 | Washable suit and processing method thereof |
| CN110447985A (en) * | 2019-08-16 | 2019-11-15 | 豪爵(北京)制衣有限公司 | A kind of man cultivates one's moral character the manufacture crafts of edition Western-style clothes |
| CN111150129A (en) * | 2020-01-17 | 2020-05-15 | 山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司 | Sewing method of machine washable business suit |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN101797075A (en) * | 2010-03-11 | 2010-08-11 | 宁波雅戈尔英成制服有限公司 | Washable suit and processing method thereof |
| CN110447985A (en) * | 2019-08-16 | 2019-11-15 | 豪爵(北京)制衣有限公司 | A kind of man cultivates one's moral character the manufacture crafts of edition Western-style clothes |
| CN111150129A (en) * | 2020-01-17 | 2020-05-15 | 山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司 | Sewing method of machine washable business suit |
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