CN112773031B - Production process for solving curling problem of knitted shirt - Google Patents
Production process for solving curling problem of knitted shirt Download PDFInfo
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- CN112773031B CN112773031B CN202110076451.3A CN202110076451A CN112773031B CN 112773031 B CN112773031 B CN 112773031B CN 202110076451 A CN202110076451 A CN 202110076451A CN 112773031 B CN112773031 B CN 112773031B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
- A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B1/00—Shirts
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a production process for solving curling of a knitted shirt. The invention relates to a production process for solving the problem of edge curling of a knitted shirt, which comprises typesetting, cutting, lining sticking, sewing and ironing, wherein small parts are prevented from being placed at the cloth edge in the typesetting process, the inner and the outer surfaces of small parts such as a collar, a sleeve head, a sleeve and the like are stuck with full linings, and a layer of thin lining strips or insertion strips with the thickness of 0.5-1.0 cm is stuck at the edge of a front large part, a rear part, a sleeve, a shoulder piece and the like in the sewing process. The method has simple process and scientific and reasonable design, and avoids the small parts from being placed at the cloth edge in the typesetting process, the full linings are adhered to the inner surface and the outer surface of the small parts such as the collar, the sleeve head, the sleeve and the like, and the thin linings or embedded strips are adhered to the edges of the large front parts such as the front piece, the rear piece, the sleeves and the over-shoulder piece, so that the problem of edge curling of the knitted shirt is avoided.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a production process for solving the problem of curling of a knitted shirt.
Background
Hemming is normal for knitted fabrics, particularly single knit fabrics, and if spandex stretch yarn is added, hemming may be more severe. When the finished fabric is subjected to sizing treatment, some white mucilage and the like are added, the edge curling phenomenon is better, but the hand feeling of the fabric is influenced, and the fabric is harder. The fabric with the curled edge is cut off, but the cut pieces can be curled, so that the problem cannot be fundamentally solved, and particularly relates to a curling treatment process of the fabric.
The existing cloth pulling method, cutting method and sewing method have the following defects:
1) The edges of the cloth are not cut off, and the cloth cannot be paved;
2) The problem of edge curling of the cloth is not solved, and the edge can be curled up again immediately after the cloth is paved;
3) No interlining or filleting is applied prior to sewing, resulting in the panel still being hemmed.
Improvements are therefore needed.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the method overcomes the defects of the prior art, provides a production process for solving the problem of curling of the knitted shirt, has scientific and reasonable design, and ensures that the manufactured knitted shirt has no curling phenomenon and stable quality.
The invention relates to a production process for solving the problem of edge curling of a knitted shirt, which comprises typesetting, cutting, lining sticking, sewing and ironing, wherein small parts are prevented from being placed at the cloth edge in the typesetting process, the inner and the outer surfaces of small parts such as a collar, a sleeve head, a sleeve and the like are stuck with a full lining, and a layer of thin lining strip or fillet with the width of 0.5-1.2 cm is stuck at the edge of a front large part, a rear part, a sleeve, a shoulder piece and the like in the sewing process.
The typesetting comprises the following steps:
(1) The typesetting of the knitted fabric follows the principle of large first and small second, tight nesting, notch combination, size matching, clean layout and fabric saving;
(2) Large components such as back panel, front panel, sleeve panel, over-the-shoulder at the selvage;
(3) Small parts such as collars, sleeve heads and sleeves are not allowed to be placed at the cloth edges, and empty sleeve rows need to be inserted into the small parts, so that the severity of small part edge curling can be avoided;
(4) The pocket is positioned at the corresponding left collar pit or armhole;
(5) The two front pieces are arranged oppositely, and the front fly strip is arranged between the two front pieces.
(6) The two sleeves are symmetrical in the longitudinal direction, the sleeve tops are arranged on the sleeve tops or the sleeve cuffs are arranged on the sleeve cuffs, and the sleeves are placed at the sleeve cuts of the sleeves.
The cutting comprises the following steps:
(1) Because the knitted fabric is soft and the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric have adhesiveness, in order to prevent the fabric from curling during cutting, a layer of paper (drawing paper) is firstly paved on the cloth paving table during cloth paving, the number of the paving layers is controlled to be 15-25, and a layer of drawing paper is paved on the uppermost layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are used for pressing the cut pieces by drawing paper, and 1cm wide adhesive tapes are used for adhering a circle at two sides and the middle of each cut piece, so that the carrying process of the cut pieces is reduced, and the turned edges of the cut pieces are avoided.
(2) Spreading the fabric by using special knitting cloth spreading equipment, allowing the fabric to naturally fall down for spreading, and adjusting the cloth spreading equipment to a tension-free state; avoids the tension generated in the cloth laying process, and eliminates the problem of shrinkage and curling of the cloth caused by elasticity.
(3) Because the knitted fabric is easy to curl, the edge is fixed by pins when the granny rag is cut, and the curling is reduced.
(4) Adopt automatic equipment of tailorring to tailor, reduce and tailor speed, avoid because of tailorring the speed too high, causing the taut turn-up's of selvedge phenomenon.
The adhesive lining comprises the following steps:
(1) The small part collar, the sleeve head and the sleeve are all adhered with a layer of knitted thin lining, the temperature is controlled to be 130-140 ℃, and the peeling strength of the small part collar, the sleeve head and the sleeve can be influenced by too high temperature; the bonding time is about 12-15'; bonding pressure: 1.5-2.5kg.
(2) The edges of large parts such as front pieces, rear pieces, sleeves, shoulders and the like are required to be adhered with a layer of thin lining before sewing, and the width of the thin lining is 0.6-1.0 cm.
The small part collar, the sleeve heads, the sleeve cheeks and the like are all adhered with a layer of knitted thin lining, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) And (3) sewing the collar: the collar turning surface, the collar turning lining, the bottom collar surface and the bottom collar lining are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, in order to keep the stiffness of the collar, a layer of adhesive lining is added on the collar turning surface and the bottom collar surface, the collar net lining sample plate is adopted for sewing the collar turning lining and the collar turning surface, collar corner pieces are not added in the collar, and the collar surface is prevented from being easily marked by the collar corner pieces. The bottom lapel seaming is also sewn by a sample plate.
(2) Sleeve cap suturing: the sleeve lining and the sleeve head surface are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, and the sleeve lining and the sleeve head surface are sewn together by adopting a sleeve head clean lining sample plate.
(3) The small and large sleeves are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, the sleeve cuts are not allowed to be cut in advance, the sleeve cuts are allowed to be cut before the sleeves are sewn on the sleeve pieces, and the phenomenon of sleeve cut hair is avoided by paying attention to
The large components such as the front piece, the back piece, the sleeves, the shoulder and the like also need to be adhered with a thin lining on the edge before sewing, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) Sewing a front fly: the front fly is of a solid style with an inner buckle, lining cloth is knitted, the lining cloth is bonded with the first and second passages of the front fly, the width of the lining cloth is the same as that of the front fly on the surface layer, and then the front fly is sewn, so that the problem of edge curling of the front fly is completely avoided.
(2) Rear panel and shoulder seam: the edges of the back piece and the over-shoulder are adhered with a layer of thin lining of 0.8-1.0 cm, then the over-shoulder and the back piece are sewed together by adopting five-thread stitches, and the five-thread can prevent the edge slip phenomenon.
(3) Closing shoulder seams: and (3) bonding a thin lining of 0.8-1.0 cm to the shoulder seam, and then sewing the shoulder seam by adopting a five-thread stitch mode to avoid edge drop.
(4) Sleeve stitching: the sleeve sheet is adhered with a transparent fillet of 0.6-1.0 cm, and is sewed on the armhole, and the edge-locking seam is proposed, and open lines can be sewed; the width of the open line of the sleeve on the overedged is more than or equal to 0.8cm. When the sleeve is put on, the sleeve cap is pulled, and the rest parts are parallel. And (4) top-sleeve open line: the height of the cloth feeding teeth is adjusted to about 2mm, and the stitches are sewn flatly.
(5) And (3) collar stitching: and (3) adding a fillet with the width of 0.6cm at the collar nest, sewing the collar at the collar nest, sealing the collar nest (a 0.5cm dark line) before collar stitching to avoid deformation of the collar nest caused by softness, and slightly pushing a collar surface and pulling a collar lining to prevent wrinkling when stitching a collar bright line.
(6) Fitting the piece: a fillet of 0.6-0.8 cm is added at the body part, and the five-line body-fitting is realized.
(7) Sleeve head stitching: and the method comprises the steps of firstly hiding the wire and then lighting the wire. Before the sleeve head is arranged, the sleeve head is folded, the sleeve head is stitched with a hidden line, and then the sleeve head is stitched with a bright line. The phenomenon that the head and the eyelid are not uniform is avoided.
(8) And (3) rolling the bottom edge: a fillet of 0.5-0.8 cm is added at the bottom edge, and the width of the curled bottom edge is more than or equal to 0.5cm.
The ironing comprises the following steps and cautions:
(1) When the clothes are flat-laid, the clothes can not be in a suspension state, and the suspension part is prevented from size change.
(2) The thread end can not be sucked by a thread end sucking machine, the size change is prevented, thread wool is adhered by an adhesive tape or a roller, and the thread wool is wrapped by covering cloth.
(3) The temperature of the iron is 150-160 ℃; the knitted fabric is lightly ironed.
(4) When folded, the needle is not allowed to be used, and a plastic long clamp and a plastic square clamp are adopted.
Compared with the prior art, the invention achieves the following beneficial effects:
the method has the advantages that the process is simple, the design is scientific and reasonable, small parts are prevented from being placed at the cloth edge in the typesetting process, the full linings are adhered to the inner surfaces and the outer surfaces of the small parts such as the collar, the sleeve head, the sleeve and the like, and the thin lining strips or the embedded strips are adhered to the edges of the large front parts such as the front piece, the rear piece, the sleeves and the over-shoulder piece in the sewing process, so that the problem of edge curling of the knitted shirt is avoided.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a view showing the curling effect of a knitted panel manufactured by a conventional method;
FIG. 2 is a view showing the curling effect of the knitted cut segment manufactured by the present invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples.
Example 1
Gram weight 105g/m 2 The production method of the knitted shirt comprises the following steps:
1. the typesetting comprises the following steps:
(1) The typesetting of the knitted fabric follows the principle of large first and small second, tight nesting, notch combination, size matching, clean layout and fabric saving;
(2) The major components such as the back panel, the front panel, the sleeve panel, are placed over the shoulder at the selvage;
(3) Small parts such as collars, sleeves and sleeves are not allowed to be placed at the cloth edges, and empty sleeve rows need to be inserted into the small parts, so that the severity of small part edge curling can be avoided;
(4) The pocket is positioned at the corresponding left collar pit or armhole;
(5) The two front pieces are arranged oppositely, and the front fly strip is arranged between the two front pieces.
(6) The two sleeves are symmetrical in the longitudinal direction, the sleeve tops are arranged on the sleeve tops or the sleeve cuffs are arranged on the sleeve cuffs, and the sleeves are placed at the sleeve cuts of the sleeves.
2. The cutting comprises the following steps:
(1) Because the knitted fabric is soft and the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric have adhesiveness, in order to prevent the fabric from curling during cutting, a layer of paper (drawing paper) is firstly paved on the cloth paving table during cloth paving, the number of the paving layers is controlled to be 15, and a layer of drawing paper is paved on the uppermost layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are used for pressing the cut pieces by drawing paper, and 1cm wide adhesive tapes are used for adhering a circle at two sides and the middle of each cut piece, so that the carrying process of the cut pieces is reduced, and the turned edges of the cut pieces are avoided.
(2) Spreading cloth by using special knitting cloth spreading equipment, allowing the fabric to naturally fall down for spreading cloth, and adjusting the cloth spreading equipment to a tension-free state; the tension generated in the cloth laying process is avoided, and the problem of shrinkage and curling of the cloth caused by elasticity is solved.
(3) Because the knitted fabric is easy to curl, the edge is fixed by pins when the granny rag is cut, and the curling is reduced.
(4) Adopt automatic equipment of tailorring to tailor, reduce and tailor speed, avoid because of tailorring the speed too high, causing the taut turn-up's of selvedge phenomenon.
3. The lining sticking method comprises the following steps:
(1) A layer of knitted thin lining is adhered on the small part collar, the sleeve heads and the sleeve qi, and the temperature is controlled at 130 ℃; the bonding time is about 12'; bonding pressure: 1.5kg.
(2) The large parts such as front piece, back piece, sleeve, shoulder piece, etc. need to be adhered with a thin lining before sewing, and the width of the thin lining is 0.6cm.
4. The small part collar, the sleeve heads and the sleeve trumpet are all adhered with a layer of knitted thin lining, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) And (3) sewing the collar: and in order to keep the stiffness of the collar, the collar turning surface and the bottom collar surface are additionally provided with a layer of adhesive interlining, the collar clean interlining template is adopted for sewing the collar turning surface and the collar turning surface, collar corner pieces are not added in the collar, and the collar surface is prevented from being easily marked by the collar corner pieces. The bottom lapel seaming is also sewn by a sample plate.
(2) Sleeve cap suturing: and (3) completely adhering a layer of 8007 thin lining on the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface, completely covering, and sewing the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface together by adopting a sleeve head clean lining sample plate.
(3) The small and large sleeves are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, the sleeve cuts cannot be cut in advance, the sleeve cuts are allowed to be cut only before the sleeves are sewn on the sleeve pieces, and the sleeve cuts are carefully avoided.
5. The large components such as front piece, back piece, sleeve, over-shoulder and the like also need to be adhered with a thin lining on the edge before sewing, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) Sewing a front fly: the front fly is of a solid style with an inner buckle, lining cloth is knitted, the lining cloth is bonded with the first and second passages of the front fly, the width of the lining cloth is the same as that of the front fly on the surface layer, and then the front fly is sewn, so that the problem of edge curling of the front fly is completely avoided.
(2) Rear panel and shoulder seam: the edges of the back piece and the over-shoulder are adhered with a layer of 0.8cm thin lining, then the over-shoulder and the back piece are sewn, and the over-shoulder and the back piece are sewn together by adopting five-thread stitches, wherein the five threads can prevent the edge drop phenomenon.
(3) Closing shoulder seams: and (3) bonding a thin lining of 0.8cm on the shoulder seam, and then sewing the shoulder seam, wherein a five-thread stitch mode can be adopted for sewing, so that edge shedding is avoided.
(4) Sleeve stitching: adhering 0.6cm transparent panel strip to the sleeve, sewing on the armhole, and optionally sewing open line; the width of the open line of the sleeve on the overlock seam cannot be less than 0.8cm. When the sleeve is put on, the sleeve cap is pulled, and the rest parts are parallel. And (4) top-sleeve open line: the height of the cloth feeding teeth is adjusted to about 2mm, and the stitches are sewn flatly.
(5) And (3) collar stitching: and (3) adding a fillet with the width of 0.6cm at the collar nest, sewing the collar at the collar nest, sealing the collar nest (a 0.5cm dark line) before collar stitching to avoid deformation of the collar nest caused by softness, and slightly pushing a collar surface and pulling a collar lining to prevent wrinkling when stitching a collar bright line.
(6) Fitting the piece: a fillet of 0.6cm is added at the body part, and the body fits with five lines.
(7) Sleeve head stitching: and the method comprises the steps of firstly hiding the wire and then lighting the wire. Before the sleeve head is arranged, the sleeve head is folded, the sleeve head is stitched with a hidden line, and then the sleeve head is stitched with a bright line. The phenomenon that the head and the eyelid are not uniform is avoided.
(8) And (3) rolling the bottom edge: a0.5 cm fillet is added at the bottom edge, and the width of the bottom edge is rolled to be 0.6cm.
6. Ironing comprises the following steps and cautions:
(1) When the clothes are flat-placed for ironing, the clothes can not be in a suspension state, and the size change of the suspension part is prevented.
(2) The thread end can not be sucked by a thread end sucking machine, the size change is prevented, thread hairs are stuck by an adhesive tape or a roller, and the thread hairs are wrapped by covering cloth.
(3) The temperature of the iron is 150 ℃; the knitted fabric is lightly ironed.
(4) When folded, the needle is not allowed to be used, and a plastic long clamp and a square clamp are adopted.
Example 2
Gram weight 130g/m 2 The knitted shirt production process comprises the following steps:
1. the typesetting comprises the following steps:
(1) The typesetting of the knitted fabric follows the principle of large first and small second, tight nesting, notch combination, size matching, clean layout and fabric saving;
(2) Large components such as back panel, front panel, sleeve panel, over-the-shoulder at the selvage;
(3) Small parts such as collars, sleeve heads and sleeves are not allowed to be placed at the cloth edges, and empty sleeve rows need to be inserted into the small parts, so that the severity of small part edge curling can be avoided;
(4) The pocket is positioned at the corresponding left collar pit or armhole;
(5) The two front pieces are arranged oppositely, and the front fly strip is arranged between the two front pieces.
(6) The two sleeves are symmetrical in the longitudinal direction, the sleeve tops are arranged on the sleeve tops or the sleeve cuffs are arranged on the sleeve cuffs, and the sleeves are placed at the sleeve cuts of the sleeves.
2. The cutting comprises the following steps:
(1) Because the knitted fabric is soft and the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric have adhesiveness, in order to prevent the fabric from curling during cutting, a layer of paper (drawing paper) is firstly paved on the cloth paving table during cloth paving, the number of the paving layers is controlled to be 20, and a layer of drawing paper is paved on the uppermost layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are adopted to press the cut pieces by drawing paper, and 1cm wide adhesive tapes are used for adhering a circle at two sides and the middle of each cut piece, so that the carrying process of the cut pieces is reduced, and the cut pieces are prevented from curling.
(2) Spreading cloth by using special knitting cloth spreading equipment, allowing the fabric to naturally fall down for spreading cloth, and adjusting the cloth spreading equipment to a tension-free state; avoids the tension generated in the cloth laying process, and eliminates the problem of shrinkage and curling of the cloth caused by elasticity.
(3) Because the knitted fabric is easy to curl, the edge is fixed by pins when the granny rag is cut, and the curling is reduced.
(4) Adopt automatic equipment of tailorring to tailor, reduce and tailor speed, avoid because of tailorring the speed too high, causing the phenomenon of taut turn-up of selvedge.
3. The adhesive lining comprises the following steps:
(1) A layer of knitted thin lining is adhered to the small part collar, the sleeve head and the sleeve piece, and the temperature is controlled to be 135 ℃; the bonding time is about 13'; bonding pressure: 2kg.
(2) The large parts such as front piece, back piece, sleeve, shoulder piece, etc. need to be adhered with a thin lining before sewing, and the width of the thin lining is 0.8cm.
4. The small part collar, the sleeve heads and the sleeve trumpet are all adhered with a layer of knitted thin lining, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) And (3) sewing a collar: and in order to keep the stiffness of the collar, a layer of adhesive lining is added on the collar turning surface and the bottom collar surface, the collar clean lining sample plate is adopted to sew the collar turning surface and the collar turning surface, no collar corner piece is added in the collar, and the phenomenon that the collar corner piece is easily marked on the collar is avoided. The bottom lapel folding is also sewn by adopting a sample plate.
(2) Sleeve cap suturing: the sleeve lining and the sleeve head surface are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, and the sleeve lining and the sleeve head surface are sewn together by adopting a sleeve head clean lining sample plate.
(3) The small and large sleeves are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, the sleeve cuts are not allowed to be cut in advance, the sleeve cuts are allowed to be cut before the sleeves are sewn on the sleeve pieces, and the phenomenon of sleeve cut hair is avoided by paying attention to
5. The large components such as front pieces, back pieces, sleeves, shoulders and the like also need to be adhered with a thin lining on the edge before sewing, and the sewing process comprises the following steps:
(1) Sewing a front fly: the front fly is of a solid style with an inner buckle, lining cloth is knitted, the lining cloth is bonded with the first and second passages of the front fly, the width of the lining cloth is the same as that of the front fly on the surface layer, and then the front fly is sewn, so that the problem of edge curling of the front fly is completely avoided.
(2) Rear panel and shoulder seam: the back piece and the edge of the over-shoulder are adhered with a layer of 0.9cm thin lining, then the over-shoulder and the back piece are sewed together by adopting five-thread stitches, and the five-thread can prevent the edge slip phenomenon.
(3) Closing shoulder seams: and (3) bonding a thin lining of 0.9cm on the shoulder seam, and then sewing the shoulder seam, wherein a five-thread stitch mode can be adopted for sewing, so that edge shedding is avoided.
(4) Sleeve stitching: adhering 0.8cm transparent insertion strip to the sleeve, sewing on the armhole, and optionally sewing open line; the width of the open line of the sleeve on the overlock seam cannot be less than 0.8cm. When the sleeve is put on, the sleeve cap is pulled, and the rest parts are parallel. And (3) line leaving of upper sleeves: the height of the cloth feeding teeth is adjusted to about 2mm, and the stitches are sewn flatly.
(5) And (3) collar stitching: and (3) adding a fillet with the width of 0.6cm at the collar nest, sewing the collar at the collar nest, sealing the collar nest (a 0.5cm dark line) before collar stitching to avoid deformation of the collar nest caused by softness, and slightly pushing a collar surface and pulling a collar lining to prevent wrinkling when stitching a collar bright line.
(6) Fitting the piece: a fillet of 0.7cm is added at the body part, and the body fits with five lines.
(7) Sleeve head stitching: and the method comprises the steps of firstly hiding the wire and then lighting the wire. Before the sleeve head is arranged, the sleeve head is folded, the sleeve head is stitched with a hidden line, and then the sleeve head is stitched with a bright line. The phenomenon that the head and the eyelid are not uniform is avoided.
(8) And (3) rolling the bottom edge: a fillet of 0.6cm is added at the bottom edge, and the width of the curled bottom edge is more than or equal to 0.8cm.
6. Ironing comprises the following steps and cautions:
(1) When the clothes are flat-placed for ironing, the clothes can not be in a suspension state, and the size change of the suspension part is prevented.
(2) The thread end can not be sucked by a thread end sucking machine, the size change is prevented, thread hairs are stuck by an adhesive tape or a roller, and the thread hairs are wrapped by covering cloth.
(3) The temperature of the iron is 160 ℃; the knitted fabric is lightly ironed.
(4) When folded, the needle is not allowed to be used, and a plastic long clamp and a plastic square clamp are adopted.
Example 3
Gram weight 150g/m 2 A nylon knitted formal shirt and a manufacturing method thereof comprise the following steps：
1. The typesetting comprises the following steps:
(1) The typesetting of the knitted fabric follows the principle of large first and small second, tight nesting, notch combination, size matching, clean layout and fabric saving;
(2) Large components such as back panel, front panel, sleeve panel, over-the-shoulder at the selvage;
(3) Small parts such as collars, sleeves and sleeves are not allowed to be placed at the cloth edges, and empty sleeve rows need to be inserted into the small parts, so that the severity of small part edge curling can be avoided;
(4) The pocket is positioned at the corresponding left collar pit or armhole;
(5) The two front pieces are arranged oppositely, and the front fly strip is arranged between the two front pieces.
(6) The two sleeves are symmetrical in the longitudinal direction, the sleeve tops are arranged on the sleeve tops or the sleeve cuffs are arranged on the sleeve cuffs, and the sleeves are placed at the sleeve cuts of the sleeves.
2. The cutting comprises the following steps:
(1) Because the knitted fabric is soft and the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric have adhesiveness, in order to prevent the fabric from curling during cutting, a layer of paper (drawing paper) is firstly paved on the cloth paving table during cloth paving, the number of the paving layers is controlled to be 25, and a layer of drawing paper is paved on the uppermost layer. The upper layer and the lower layer are used for pressing the cut pieces by drawing paper, and 1cm wide adhesive tapes are used for adhering a circle at two sides and the middle of each cut piece, so that the carrying process of the cut pieces is reduced, and the turned edges of the cut pieces are avoided.
(2) Spreading the fabric by using special knitting cloth spreading equipment, allowing the fabric to naturally fall down for spreading, and adjusting the cloth spreading equipment to a tension-free state; the tension generated in the cloth laying process is avoided, and the problem of shrinkage and curling of the cloth caused by elasticity is solved.
(3) Because the knitted fabric is easy to curl, the edge is fixed by pins when the granny rag is cut, and the curled edge is reduced.
(4) Adopt automatic equipment of tailorring to tailor, reduce and tailor speed, avoid because of tailorring the speed too high, causing the phenomenon of taut turn-up of selvedge.
3. The lining sticking method comprises the following steps:
(1) A layer of knitted thin lining is adhered on the small part collar, the sleeve heads and the sleeve qi, and the temperature is controlled at 140 ℃; the bonding time is about 15'; bonding pressure: 2.5kg.
(2) The large parts such as the front piece, the back piece, the sleeves, the shoulder and the like also need to be adhered with a thin lining before sewing, and the width of the thin lining is 1.0cm.
4. The sewing (widget) process comprises the following steps:
(1) And (3) sewing a collar: and in order to keep the stiffness of the collar, a layer of adhesive lining is added on the collar turning surface and the bottom collar surface, the collar clean lining sample plate is adopted to sew the collar turning surface and the collar turning surface, no collar corner piece is added in the collar, and the phenomenon that the collar corner piece is easily marked on the collar is avoided. The bottom lapel seaming is also sewn by a sample plate.
(2) Sleeve cap suturing: and (3) completely adhering a layer of 8007 thin lining on the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface, completely covering, and sewing the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface together by adopting a sleeve head clean lining sample plate.
(3) The small and large sleeves are all adhered with a layer of 8007 thin lining and are all covered, the sleeve cuts are not allowed to be cut in advance, the sleeve cuts are allowed to be cut before the sleeves are sewn on the sleeve pieces, and the phenomenon of sleeve cut hair is avoided by paying attention to
5. The sewing (large part) process comprises the following steps:
(1) Sewing a front fly: the front fly is of an inner buckle solid style, the lining cloth is knitted, the lining cloth is used for adhering the first and second ways of the front fly and is arranged on the surface layer, the width of the lining cloth is consistent with that of the front fly, and then the front fly is sewn, so that the problem of edge curling of the front fly is completely avoided.
(2) Rear panel and shoulder seam: the edges of the back piece and the over-shoulder are adhered with a layer of thin lining of 1.0cm, then the back piece and the over-shoulder are sewn, and the over-shoulder and the back piece are sewn together by adopting five-thread stitches, wherein the five threads can prevent the edge drop phenomenon.
(3) Closing the shoulder seam: a1.0 cm thin lining is bonded on the shoulder seam, and then the shoulder seam is sewed, and a five-thread stitch mode can be adopted for sewing, so that edge separation is avoided.
(4) Sleeve stitching: adhering 1.0cm transparent panel strip to the sleeve, sewing on the armhole, and optionally sewing open line; the width of the open line of the sleeve on the overlock seam cannot be less than 0.8cm. When the sleeve is put on, the sleeve cap is pulled, and the rest parts are parallel. And (4) top-sleeve open line: the height of the cloth feeding teeth is adjusted to about 2mm, and the stitches are sewn flatly.
(5) And (3) collar stitching: and adding a fillet with the width of 0.6cm at the collar nest, sewing the collar at the collar nest, sealing the collar nest (a 0.5cm dark line) before collar stitching to avoid deformation of the collar nest caused by looseness, and slightly pushing a collar surface and pulling the inside of the collar to prevent wrinkling when stitching the open line.
(6) Fitting the piece: a fillet of 0.8cm is added at the body part, and the body fits with five lines.
(7) Sleeve head stitching: and the method comprises the steps of firstly hiding the wire and then lighting the wire. And (3) before the sleeve is assembled, forming a sleeve fold, stitching a dark line to the sleeve, and stitching a sleeve stitch to an open line. The phenomenon that the head and the eyelid are not uniform is avoided.
(8) And (3) rolling the bottom edge: a fillet of 0.8cm is added at the bottom edge, and the width of the bottom edge is 1.0cm.
6. Ironing comprises the following steps and cautions:
(1) When the clothes are flat-placed for ironing, the clothes can not be in a suspension state, and the size change of the suspension part is prevented.
(2) The thread end can not be sucked by a thread end sucking machine, the size change is prevented, thread wool is adhered by an adhesive tape or a roller, and the thread wool is wrapped by covering cloth.
(3) The temperature of the iron is 155 ℃; the knitted fabric is lightly ironed.
(4) When folded, the needle is not allowed to be used, and a plastic long clamp and a plastic square clamp are adopted.
Comparative example 1
The step (1) is not performed in the cutting process, and the rest steps are the same as those of the example 1.
Comparative example 2
The step (1) is not carried out in the lining process, and the rest steps are the same as the example 1.
Comparative example 3
The sewing process is not performed with the step (2), and the rest steps are the same as those of the example 1.
The clothes obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were subjected to various performance tests, and the test results are shown in the following table.
TABLE 1
The test result shows that the process completely avoids the problem of edge curling in each process of manufacturing the knitted shirt, the quality indexes of the manufactured product, such as bursting strength, torsion rate after washing, light/water color fastness and the like, all meet the quality requirement of the clothing, and the softness and comfort of the clothing are far superior to those of the normal pure cotton shirt.
Of course, the foregoing is merely exemplary of the invention and is not to be construed as limiting the scope of the embodiments of the invention. The present invention is not limited to the above examples, and equivalent changes and modifications made by those skilled in the art within the spirit and scope of the present invention should be construed as being included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. A production process for solving the problem of hemming of knitted shirts comprises typesetting, cutting, lining sticking, sewing and ironing, and is characterized in that: small parts are abandoned at the cloth edges in the typesetting process, full linings are adhered to the inner and the surface of the collar, the sleeve head and the sleeve small parts, and a thin lining strip or an embedded strip is adhered to the edge of the front large part, the rear part, the sleeve and the shoulder-crossing piece;
the cutting comprises the following steps:
(1) Before cloth laying, firstly laying a layer of paper on a cloth laying pattern, controlling the number of the cloth laying layers to be 15-25, laying a layer of paper on the uppermost layer, and sticking a circle of adhesive tape with the width of 1cm on two sides and the middle of the cut piece;
adopting special cotton knitting cloth paving equipment, enabling the fabric to naturally fall down for cloth paving, and adjusting the cloth paving equipment to be in a tension-free state;
(3) Fixing the edges by pins, and then automatically cutting and spreading the cloth;
the typesetting comprises the following steps:
(1) The typesetting of the knitted fabric follows the principle of large first and small second, tight nesting, notch combination, size matching, clean layout and fabric saving;
(2) The large component back piece, the front piece, the sleeve piece and the over-shoulder are placed at the cloth edge;
(3) Small part collars, sleeve heads and sleeves are abandoned at the cloth edges, and empty sleeve rows are inserted into the small parts;
(4) The pocket is positioned at the corresponding left collar pit or armhole;
(5) The two front pieces are arranged oppositely, and the front fly strip is arranged between the two front pieces;
(6) The two sleeves are symmetrical in the longitudinal direction, the sleeve tops are arranged on the sleeve tops or the cuffs are arranged on the cuffs, and the sleeves are placed at the sleeve openings of the sleeves;
before sewing, the small parts are adhered with a thin lining at the edges, and the sewing comprises the following steps:
(1) And (3) sewing a collar: a thin lining is adhered on the collar turning surface, the collar turning lining, the bottom collar surface and the bottom collar lining and is completely covered, a layer of adhesive lining is added on the collar turning surface and the bottom collar surface, the collar cleaning lining sample plate is adopted to sew the collar turning lining and the collar turning surface, and the bottom collar folding is also sewed by the sample plate;
(2) Sleeve cap suturing: a layer of thin lining is adhered on the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface, and the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface are completely covered, and a sleeve head clean lining sample plate is adopted to sew the sleeve head lining and the sleeve head surface together;
(3) The small and large sleeves are all adhered with a layer of thin lining and are completely covered, and sleeves are cut before the sleeves are sewn on the sleeve pieces;
before sewing, a thin lining is adhered to the edge of the large component, and the sewing comprises the following steps:
1) Sewing a front fly: the front fly is of an inner buckle solid style, lining cloth is knitted, the lining cloth is bonded with the first and second ways of the front fly and on the surface layer, the width of the lining cloth is consistent with that of the front fly, and then the front fly is sewn;
2) Rear panel and shoulder seam: adhering a layer of thin lining with the width of 0.8-1.0 cm on the edges of the back piece and the over-shoulder, then sewing, and sewing the over-shoulder and the back piece together by adopting five-thread stitches;
3) Closing shoulder seams: bonding a thin lining with the width of 0.8-1.0 cm to the shoulder seam, and then sewing the shoulder seam by adopting a five-thread stitch mode;
4) Sleeve stitching: adhering a transparent fillet with the width of 0.6-1.0 cm to the sleeve sheet, sewing the fillet on the armhole, sewing the edge, and sewing an open line; the width of the open line of the sleeve on the overlock is more than or equal to 0.8cm; when the sleeves are fed, the sleeve piece is pulled at the sleeve mountain, and the rest parts are carried out in parallel; the sleeve is covered with the open thread, the height of the cloth feeding tooth is adjusted to 2mm, and the stitches are sewn flatly;
5) And (3) collar stitching: adding a fillet with the width of 0.6cm at the collar pit, sewing a collar at the collar pit, and before stitching, forming a 0.5cm hidden line at the collar pit sealing position; when the collar is trimmed and the bright line is stitched, slightly pushing the collar surface and pulling the collar lining;
6) Fitting the piece: a fillet with the width of 0.6-0.8 cm is added at the body part, and the five-line body-fitting is carried out;
7) Sleeve head stitching: firstly, a dark thread and then an open thread are arranged, a sleeve cap fold is formed before a sleeve cap is arranged, the dark thread is firstly stitched and then the sleeve cap is stitched and then the open thread is stitched;
8) Rolling the bottom edge: adding a fillet with the width of 0.5-0.8 cm at the bottom edge, wherein the width of the curled bottom edge is more than or equal to 0.5cm;
the ironing comprises the following steps and cautions:
when the clothes are flat-placed for ironing, the clothes can not be in a suspension state, and the size change of the suspension part is prevented;
the thread end can not be sucked by a thread end sucking machine, the size change is prevented, thread wool is adhered by an adhesive tape or a roller, and the thread wool is wrapped by covering cloth;
the temperature of the iron is 150-160 ℃; lightly ironing the knitted fabric;
when folded, the needle is not allowed to be used, and a plastic long clamp and a square clamp are adopted.
2. The production process for solving the problem of hemming of knitted shirts according to claim 1, characterized in that: the width of the thin lining strip or fillet is 0.5-1.2 cm.
3. The production process for solving the problem of hemming of knitted shirts according to claim 1, characterized in that: when the lining is adhered, a layer of knitted thin lining is adhered on the collar, the sleeve head and the sleeve lining cloth of the small part, the temperature of the lining is controlled to be 130-140 ℃, and the adhering time is 12-15 seconds; the bonding pressure is 1.5-2.5kg.
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| CN113349497B (en) * | 2021-06-30 | 2023-06-27 | 上海艺淼服饰有限公司 | Sewing method and garment |
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| CN114150433B (en) * | 2021-12-13 | 2023-10-17 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving problem of sewing needle hole of knitted shirt |
| CN114916723A (en) * | 2022-06-14 | 2022-08-19 | 浙江乔治白服饰股份有限公司 | Neck holding type shape-keeping and comfortable collar and shirt and manufacturing method thereof |
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