CN108866831B - Angle sealing process for interactive combined double-faced woolen clothes - Google Patents
Angle sealing process for interactive combined double-faced woolen clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN108866831B CN108866831B CN201810730753.6A CN201810730753A CN108866831B CN 108866831 B CN108866831 B CN 108866831B CN 201810730753 A CN201810730753 A CN 201810730753A CN 108866831 B CN108866831 B CN 108866831B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B1/00—General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
- D05B1/24—General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making blind-stitch seams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
- D05B35/02—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for facilitating seaming; Hem-turning elements; Hemmers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
- D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
- D05D2305/22—Physico-chemical treatments
- D05D2305/26—Heating
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Abstract
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及服装加工技术领域,具体是一种互式组合的双面呢服装的封角工艺。The invention relates to the technical field of garment processing, in particular to an angle-sealing process for inter-combined double-sided woolen garments.
背景技术Background technique
由于双面呢服装无挂面、无衬里的特点,其领角、驳角、袋盖拐角或者贴袋的拐角处、前门襟与底边交接拐角处等部位需要进行包角技术处理,其目的是使服装拐角处的毛边掩藏在面料中层,以保证服装拐角处的美观性。Due to the characteristics of no surface and no lining of double-sided woolen garments, the corners of the collar, slats, the corners of the flaps or the corners of the patch pockets, the corners of the front placket and the bottom edge need to be treated with corner wrapping technology. The purpose is to The burrs at the corners of the clothing are hidden in the middle layer of the fabric to ensure the beauty of the corners of the clothing.
由于双面呢织物正反两面均光滑,制作时无需衬里,边缘及拐角处均外露,此时衣片拐角处就要使用一种特殊的封角工艺,目前采用的拐角处封角工艺是在双面呢裁片剥离缝份后,正反两层各自向中间层扣烫缝份后,正反两层边缘对齐,采用暗缲工艺缝合边缘及拐角。此种封角工艺使得拐角处面料层数较多,暗缲工艺难以将拐角处多余缝份掩藏;缝合后外观呈现两层织物,拐角处不美观;熨烫后不易熨烫平服,易出现烫焦、极光现象。Since the front and back sides of the double-sided woolen fabric are smooth, there is no need for lining during production, and the edges and corners are exposed. At this time, a special corner sealing process must be used at the corners of the garment. The corner sealing process currently used is in After peeling off the seam allowance of the double-sided woolen piece, the front and back layers respectively buckle the seam allowance to the middle layer, align the edges of the front and back layers, and sew the edges and corners using the dark stitching process. This corner sealing process makes the number of layers of fabrics at the corners more, and it is difficult to hide the excess seam allowances at the corners by the dark weaving process; after stitching, the appearance presents two layers of fabrics, and the corners are not beautiful; after ironing, it is not easy to iron flat clothes, and it is easy to cause ironing. Focus, aurora phenomenon.
发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
本发明的目的是克服现有技术的不足,提供一种互式组合的双面呢服装的封角工艺,封角后使拐角处面料层数减少,轻薄美观,易熨烫、易缝合,以保证穿着时的美观性,采取的技术方案包括如下步骤:The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art, and to provide a corner-sealing process for a double-sided woolen garment combined with each other. To ensure the beauty of wearing, the technical solutions adopted include the following steps:
①在距离双面呢衣片需要封角的两侧边缘12mm处分别机缝横向剥离止口线与纵向剥离止口线;① Machine sew the horizontal stripping stop line and the longitudinal stripping stop line at 12mm from the edges of both sides of the double-sided woolen piece that needs to be sealed;
②使用剖缝机对双面呢衣片进行剖缝,使所述横向剥离止口线与纵向剥离止口线以外的双面呢衣片形成横面缝份、横里缝份、纵面缝份、纵里缝份;② Use a slitting machine to slit the double-sided woolen garment piece, and form the horizontal seam allowance, the horizontal inner seam allowance and the vertical seam of the double-sided woolen garment piece except for the horizontal peeling seam line and the vertical peeling seam line. part, longitudinal seam part;
③对横面缝份、横里缝份,纵面缝份和纵里缝份进行熨烫,并修剪毛边至顺直,各缝份宽为8-10mm;③ Iron the horizontal seam allowance, the horizontal seam allowance, the vertical seam allowance and the vertical inside seam allowance, and trim the burrs until they are straight, and the width of each seam allowance is 8-10mm;
④先将横面缝份沿横向剥离止口线向里方向扣烫,将纵面缝份沿纵向剥离止口线向里方向扣烫;再将纵里缝份沿纵向剥离止口线向面方向扣烫,然后将横里缝份沿横向剥离止口线向面方向扣烫;四条缝份扣烫宽度为4mm-5mm;修剪掉横里缝份与纵里缝份重叠部分的一半,形状为等腰直角三角形,该等腰直角三角形斜边经过拐角处,拐角处与扣烫边缘预留两根布丝,以防止剪秃出现脱丝、毛边现象;④ First, fasten and iron the horizontal seam allowance inward along the horizontal stripping seam line, and fasten and iron the longitudinal seam allowance along the longitudinal stripping seam line inward; Fasten and iron in the direction, and then press and iron the horizontal and inner seams along the horizontal stripping seam line to the face direction; the width of the four seam allowances is 4mm-5mm; trim off half of the overlapping part of the horizontal and vertical seam It is an isosceles right triangle, the hypotenuse of the isosceles right triangle passes through the corner, and two pieces of cloth are reserved at the corner and the edge of the button to prevent baldness and burrs from appearing;
⑤横面缝份与纵面缝份重叠部分不修剪,将该重叠部分穿插入步骤④横里缝份与纵里缝份剩余的重叠部分内,使其互式交叉;使用手针以暗缲藏针针法将横面缝份与横里缝份、纵面缝份与纵里缝份缝合在一起;⑤ Do not trim the overlapping part of the horizontal seam allowance and the vertical seam allowance, and insert the overlapping part into the remaining overlapping part of the horizontal and vertical seam allowances in step ④ to make them intersect each other; The Tibetan needle method sews the horizontal seam and the horizontal seam together, and the vertical seam and the vertical seam together;
⑥拆掉横向剥离止口线和纵向剥离止口线,双面呢衣片正面垫一层呢绒烫布进行熨烫,拐角处多烫几遍,但要防止烫焦或者极光。⑥Remove the horizontal stripping stop line and the vertical stripping stop line, put a layer of woolen ironing cloth on the front of the double-sided woolen cloth for ironing, and iron the corners several times, but prevent scalding or aurora.
进一步地,使用暗缲藏针法时针距控制在11针/3cm之内,上下走针只挑两根布丝,正反面均不可露针脚,且不可斜向走针,以保证缝合牢度与针脚的隐藏程度。Further, when using the hidden stitching method, the needle distance is controlled within 11 stitches/3cm, and only two pieces of cloth are selected for the up and down stitches. How hidden the pins are.
进一步地,机缝剥离止口线的针距控制在9针/3cm。Further, the stitch length of the machine-seam peeling rib is controlled at 9 stitches/3cm.
进一步地,暗缲藏针法使用的缝纫线的颜色根据双面呢正反面的颜色而定,与织物外露一面的颜色一致。Further, the color of the sewing thread used in the dark stitching method is determined according to the color of the front and back of the double-sided fabric, which is consistent with the color of the exposed side of the fabric.
与现有技术相比,本发明封角工艺适用于双面呢服装制作时的拐角处工艺处理,利用互式组合进行封角处理,在保证了拐角处的美观性前提下,有利于对拐角处进行熨烫和缝制的工艺操作,使得双面呢服装拐角处轻薄且平服。同时此工艺改善了拐角处过厚、硬挺、难以缝合、熨烫后不平服、易出现烫焦等一系列弊病,可使双面呢服装的拐角处轻薄平服、美观、易缝合、易熨烫,提高了工艺操作便利性与外观美观性,大大的增加了服装的附加值。Compared with the prior art, the corner sealing process of the present invention is suitable for the process treatment of the corners in the production of double-sided woolen clothing, and the corner sealing treatment is carried out by using mutual combination, which is beneficial to the corners under the premise of ensuring the aesthetics of the corners. The process of ironing and sewing is carried out at the same time, so that the corners of the double-sided woolen garments are light and flat. At the same time, this process improves a series of disadvantages such as excessive thickness at the corners, stiffness, difficult to sew, uneven clothes after ironing, and easy to burn. , which improves the convenience of process operation and aesthetic appearance, and greatly increases the added value of clothing.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1是本发明的封角工艺示意图。1 is a schematic diagram of the corner sealing process of the present invention.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
以下以一片矩形双面呢衣片为例详细说明本发明的工艺过程。The process of the present invention will be described in detail below by taking a rectangular double-sided woolen piece as an example.
参见附图,①在距离双面呢衣片100需要封角的两侧边缘12mm处分别机缝横向剥离止口线101与纵向剥离止口线102;Referring to the accompanying drawings, 1) machine sew a transverse
②使用剖缝机对双面呢衣片100进行剖缝,使所述横向剥离止口线101与纵向剥离止口线102以外的双面呢衣片形成横面缝份12、横里缝份13、纵面缝份22、纵里缝份23;② Use a slitting machine to slit the double-sided
③对横面缝份12、横里缝份13,纵面缝份22和纵里缝份23进行熨烫,并修剪毛边至顺直,各缝份宽为8-10mm;③ Iron the
④先将横面缝份12沿横向剥离止口线101向里方向扣烫,将纵面缝份22沿纵向剥离止口线102向里方向扣烫;再将纵里缝份23沿纵向剥离止口线102向面方向扣烫,然后将横里缝份13沿横向剥离止口线101向面方向扣烫;四条缝份扣烫宽度为4mm-5mm;修剪掉横里缝份13与纵里缝份23重叠部分的一半,形状为等腰直角三角形1323,该等腰直角三角形斜边经过拐角处,拐角处与扣烫边缘预留两根布丝,以防止剪秃出现脱丝、毛边现象;④ First, fasten and iron the
⑤横面缝份12与纵面缝份22重叠部分不修剪,将该重叠部分穿插入步骤④横里缝份13与纵里缝份23剩余的重叠部分内,使其互式交叉;使用手针以暗缲藏针针法将横面缝份12与横里缝份13、纵面缝份22与纵里缝份23缝合在一起;⑤ The overlapping part of the
⑥拆掉横向剥离止口线101和纵向剥离止口线102,双面呢衣片100正面垫一层呢绒烫布进行熨烫,拐角处多烫几遍,但要防止烫焦或者极光。⑥Remove the horizontal
使用暗缲藏针法时针距控制在11针/3cm之内,上下走针只挑两根布丝,正反面均不可露针脚,且不可斜向走针,以保证缝合牢度与针脚的隐藏程度。机缝剥离止口线101的针距控制在9针/3cm。暗缲藏针法使用的缝纫线的颜色根据双面呢正反面的颜色而定,与织物外露一面的颜色一致。When using the hidden stitching method, the stitch distance is controlled within 11 stitches/3cm, and only two cloth threads are selected for the up and down stitches. No stitches are exposed on the front and back sides, and stitches cannot be run diagonally to ensure the stitching fastness and the concealment of the stitches. degree. The stitch length of the machine-sewn peel-off
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| CN109730384B (en) * | 2018-12-27 | 2020-11-20 | 吴国英 | Method for manually sewing arc seam allowance on front surface of fine dried noodle |
| CN109846104A (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2019-06-07 | 杭州蓝色倾情服饰有限公司 | Two-sided overcoat of one kind and preparation method thereof |
| CN109998187A (en) * | 2019-03-26 | 2019-07-12 | 烟台南山学院 | One kind exempting from rolled-edge type and seals vermicelli method without inner woman suit |
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