CN103859675B - Semi-hand-sewing method for shirt - Google Patents
Semi-hand-sewing method for shirt Download PDFInfo
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- CN103859675B CN103859675B CN201410119804.3A CN201410119804A CN103859675B CN 103859675 B CN103859675 B CN 103859675B CN 201410119804 A CN201410119804 A CN 201410119804A CN 103859675 B CN103859675 B CN 103859675B
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Abstract
The invention relates to a semi-hand-sewing method for a shirt. The method includes the first step of cutting out a front shirt piece, a back shirt piece, yokes, sleeve pieces, cuffs and a collar of the shirt, the second step of sewing side seams of the front shirt piece and the back shirt piece, sewing the yokes and back shoulder portions of a shirt body and sewing the sleeve seams and side seams of the sleeve pieces, and carrying out processing on the sleeve pieces and the cuffs in a machine processing mode, the third step of carrying out sewing processing on the yokes of the shirt with the shift body in a hand sewing mode, the fourth step of carrying out sewing processing on shirt sleeves with the processed shirt body in a hand sewing mode, the fifth step of sewing pentagonal attached cloth on joints between the front shirt piece and the back shirt piece of the shift body, and the sixth step of sewing shirt buttons on the front fly portion of the shirt body in a hand sewing mode. According to the method, hand processing and machine processing are combined, the production efficiency of the shirts is guaranteed, and the processing quality is improved.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to garment technology field, relate to a kind of bind, specifically, relate to a kind of semi-hand bind of shirt.
Background technology
Shirt is the first-selection of a kind of more formal dress ornament, the managing dressing of Chang Zuowei, and the requirement of user to the style of shirt and structure is that requirement is formal on the one hand, and also require that style is dignified, comfortable and easy to wear on the other hand, this just proposes the requirement of shirt processing to the producer.Require that production and processing efficiency is higher on the one hand, require again on the other hand can not cause in shirt sewing process nonstandard phenomenons such as wrinkling, wrinkling in the high efficiency process pursuing mechanization production, affect the quality of shirt.
The structure of shirt generally includes collar, clothing body, left front, coat-sleeve etc., in the process of current mechanization, shirt shoulder seam, muffs, bottom patch, button etc. are machine sewn, although mechanical processing process also has processing criterion, but process mainly relies on processor to the operating experience of machine, misoperation easily causes muff part, shoulder wrinkles, nail catcher plays the nonstandard phenomenon of empty amount, affects attractive in appearance and wears effect.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to for the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of method that semi-hand of shirt is sewed is provided.
Technical scheme of the present invention is: a kind of semi-hand bind of shirt, comprises the following steps:
S1: cut out the clothing anter of shirt, clothing rear panel, excessively shoulder, sleeve sheet, cuff and collar, get shirt clothing ready to buckle, shirt clothing is buckled with four buttonholes, the clothing anter of shirt and the latasuture of clothing rear panel are sewed up by the mode of machine stitching, processing is processed into shirt bodice, sewn together, for subsequent use with the rear shoulders of shirt bodice by crossing shoulder, by the mode of machine stitching will tuck inside the sleeve sheet closed sleeve seam, latasuture, and by has closed sleeve seam sleeve sheet and cuff be processed into shirt tuck inside the sleeve for subsequent use;
S2: shirt is crossed shoulder and undertaken sew by the mode of handspin and shirt bodice and process: mistake is takeed on and secretly hooks with the crop position difference of shirt bodice, namely dark hook adopts the Tibetan skill of handling needles, referring to crossing the back side stowing of shoulder with shirt bodice joint, after sewing, can't see sewing thread from front; The bodice secretly hooked being lain on boiling hot platform, sealing off crossing the clothing front panel portion of shoulder with shirt bodice, after sealing off, get sewing needle and wear solid wire, stitch 0.15cm open-wire line, pin code 0.1cm at the crop position seam crossing hand crossing shoulder and shirt bodice, needle gage 0.5cm has stitched along front shoulder seam;
S3: shirt sleeve is carried out sewing with the shirt bodice processed in step S2 by the mode of handspin and processes: first the sleeve that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve is stitched when above tucking inside the sleeve and align with the latasuture of shirt bodice, the sleeve seam forwards 1cm again shirt tucked inside the sleeve, interval 1cm between the sleeve seam that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve and the latasuture of shirt bodice, shirt sleeve and shirt bodice suture are got and stitched part is 0.7cm, sleeve is alignd first-class with shirt bodice suture according to stitching part 0.7cm, the bodice of first-class sleeve is placed on boiling hot platform sleeve model, the muffs position of flatiron shirt bodice, solid wire is worn with sewing needle, according to open-wire line 0.6cm, pin code 0.1cm, needle gage 0.5cm, manual seam is enclosed around muffs one,
S4: shirt clothing is buckled and adopts the mode of handspin to sew at the left front place of shirt bodice: wear 4 lines with sewing needle, get a buttonhole that shirt clothing buckles as benchmark buttonhole, from the nail nipping of benchmark buttonhole, based on benchmark buttonhole, sew back and forth between benchmark buttonhole and other three buttonholes successively according to clockwise or counterclockwise order, sew all back and forth twice between benchmark buttonhole and each buttonhole of other three buttonholes, the sky that rises that shirt clothing is buckled between shirt left front measures 0.2 ~ 0.3cm, empty the measuring of rising that shirt clothing is buckled between shirt left front buckles the distance after sewing between left front for shirt clothing, after having sewed, sewing needle is twined two circles around clasp, sewing needle is locked by nail catcher through hem reverse side small needle size,
S5: shirt collar is sewed up by the shirt bodice processed in the mode of machine stitching and S5.
Preferably: the method is further comprising the steps of: stitch pentagon patch at the clothing anter of shirt bodice and the seam crossing hand of clothing rear panel: pentagon patch is sewed the outer surface at clothing anter and clothing rear panel joint, pentagon patch is buckled hot according to model, pentagon patch is placed on the position, base, side seam place of clothing anter and clothing rear panel, align with the side seam of clothing anter with clothing rear panel in an angle in five jiaos, align with the base of shirt bodice in the limit of the pentagon patch relative with the angle that the side seam of clothing anter and clothing rear panel is alignd, sewing needle is used to wear solid wire, pentagon patch and shirt bodice are secretly hooked, namely dark hook adopts the Tibetan skill of handling needles, namely between the back side of pentagon patch and shirt bodice, joint adopts the mode of stowing, by pentagon patch and shirt bodice sewn together, sewing thread is can't see from the front of pentagon patch after having sewed, limit afterwards along pentagon patch adopts pin code 0.3cm along the limit open-wire line sewing of pentagon shape, all sew and fix two pins in the position at pentagon patch five angles.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
(1) muff part that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve is adopted the mode of open-wire line handspin, shirt bodice and muff part are got suitable seam part, ensures the stability of the rear structure of sewing, press afterwards and the sewing of manual open-wire line, avoid machine operation improper cause muff part sew wrinkle, ensure sewing planarization.Sleeve seam is not alignd with the latasuture of shirt bodice in shirt sleeve sewing process, and forwards 1cm that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve, cause interface out-of-flatness when avoiding shirt sleeve seam to align with shirt bodice latasuture, shirt is worn fit, comfortable.
(2) shirt cross shoulder and shirt be in greatly adopts secretly hook, press, mode that rear open-wire line is sewed, the problem that solution machine stitching wrinkles.
(3) effect attractive in appearance can be played in the patch of sewing of the clothing anter of shirt and the seam crossing of clothing rear panel, make shirt sewing structure more stable simultaneously, the present invention to have sewed pentagon patch at the clothing anter of the shirt of shirt and the seam crossing of clothing rear panel, the sewing of patch adopts artisan craftsmanship, because the size of patch is less, therefore have employed the pin code of less 0.3cm, have employed the mode of first dark hook, the sewing of rear open-wire line, and fix two pins in the position at five angles, make sewing structure more stable.
(4) clothing of shirt is buckled and is adopted the buckle-shaped formula of manual shank staple, the elasticity that the form of manual nail catcher can control to sew preferably is measured with a sky, choose a benchmark buttonhole, sew back and forth between benchmark buttonhole and other three buttonholes, the final nail catcher obtaining shank shape.The clasp nailed plays empty amount evenly, shape novel and beautiful.
(5) method provided by the invention solve pure mechanical processing technique standard control more difficult, machining efficiency higher but precision and processing effect defect more rambunctious, provide the semi-hand technique processing method that a kind of machine and artisan craftsmanship combine, this processing method is to the side seam of shirt clothing anter and clothing rear panel, processing and the sleeve sheet of shirt sleeve sheet adopt the mode of machining with the processing that the processing etc. of cuff is seldom met, common clothing is buckled, shoulder sheet, the mode that the processing that shirt sleeve and the connection etc. of shirt bodice wear common adopts craft to process, processing effect is improve while guarantee working (machining) efficiency.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 for shirt garment piece with cross shoulder seam and to thread structural representation.
Accompanying drawing 2 is shirt coat-sleeve and shirt bodice sewing structure schematic diagram.
Accompanying drawing 3 is pentagon patch sewing structure schematic diagram.
Accompanying drawing 4 is that sewing structure schematic diagram buckled by shirt clothing.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the present invention will be further described in detail.
The invention discloses a kind of semi-hand bind of shirt, the process employs the mode that processing and machining by hand combine, wherein the clothing anter of shirt, the processing of clothing rear panel adopt machining, the processing of shirt sleeve adopts machining, and cross shoulder and the sewing of shirt bodice, the shirt of Qin Yi tuck inside the sleeves and all adopted the mode of processing by hand with the processing of patch in the sewing of shirt bodice and shirt and clasp.The method comprises the following steps:
S1: cut out the clothing anter 2 of shirt, clothing rear panel, excessively shoulder 1, sleeve sheet, cuff and collar, get shirt clothing ready to buckle, shirt clothing is buckled and is selected the clothing of four buttonholes to buckle, the clothing anter 2 of shirt and the latasuture of clothing rear panel are sewed up by the mode of machine stitching, processing is processed into shirt bodice, sewn together, for subsequent use with the rear shoulders of shirt bodice by crossing shoulder 1, by the mode of machine stitching will tuck inside the sleeve sheet closed sleeve seam, latasuture, and by has closed sleeve seam sleeve sheet and cuff be processed into shirt tuck inside the sleeve for subsequent use;
S2: shirt being crossed shoulder 1 and undertaken sewing by the mode of handspin and shirt bodice and process: secretly hooking crossing crop 3 position of shoulder 1 with shirt bodice, the bodice secretly hooked is lain on boiling hot platform, seal off crossing clothing anter 2 part of shoulder 1 with shirt bodice, after sealing off, get sewing needle and wear solid wire, stitch 0.15cm open-wire line, pin code 0.1cm at the crop 3 position seam crossing hand crossing shoulder 1 and shirt bodice, needle gage 0.5cm has stitched along front shoulder seam;
S3: shirt sleeve 4 is carried out sewing with the shirt bodice processed in step S2 by the mode of handspin and processes: first shirt is tucked inside the sleeve when above tucking inside the sleeve 4 sleeve stitch and align with the latasuture of shirt bodice, again the sleeve of shirt sleeve 4 is stitched 5 forwards 1cm, make interval 1cm between the sleeve seam 5 of shirt sleeve 4 and the latasuture 6 of shirt bodice, shirt sleeve 4 and shirt bodice suture are got and stitched part is 0.7cm, seam part is the length of shirt sleeve 4 sewing in shirt bodice inside, shirt sleeve 4 is alignd first-class with shirt bodice suture according to stitching part 0.7cm, the bodice of first-class shirt sleeve 4 is placed on boiling hot platform sleeve model, the muffs position of flatiron shirt bodice, solid wire is worn with sewing needle, according to open-wire line 0.6cm, pin code 0.1cm, needle gage 0.5cm, manual seam is enclosed around muffs one,
S4: stitch pentagon patch 7 at the clothing anter 2 of shirt bodice with the seam crossing hand of clothing rear panel: buckle hot according to model by pentagon patch 7, pentagon patch 7 is placed on the position, base, side seam place of clothing anter and clothing rear panel, align with the latasuture 6 of clothing rear panel with clothing anter in an angle in five jiaos, align with the base 8 of shirt bodice in the limit of pentagon patch relative with the angle that the side seam of clothing anter and clothing rear panel is alignd, sewing needle is used to wear solid wire, pentagon patch 7 and shirt bodice are secretly hooked, limit afterwards along pentagon patch 7 adopts pin code 0.3cm along the limit open-wire line sewing of pentagon shape, all sew and fix two pins in the position at pentagon patch 7 five angles,
S5: shirt clothing is buckled and adopts the mode of handspin to sew at the left front place of shirt bodice: wear 4 lines with sewing needle, get a buttonhole that shirt clothing buckles as benchmark buttonhole 9, from benchmark buttonhole 9 nail nipping, based on benchmark buttonhole 9, sew back and forth between benchmark buttonhole 9 and other three buttonholes successively according to clockwise or counterclockwise order, sew all back and forth twice between benchmark buttonhole 9 and each buttonhole of other three buttonholes, the sky that rises that shirt clothing is buckled between the hem measures 0.2 ~ 0.3cm, namely shirt clothing is buckled and distance on shirt garment piece between left front is 0.2 ~ 0.3cm, after having sewed, sewing needle is twined two circles around clasp, sewing needle is locked by nail catcher through hem reverse side small needle size,
S6: shirt collar is sewed up by the shirt bodice processed in the mode of machine stitching and S5.
Claims (2)
1. a shirt semi-hand bind, is characterized in that: comprise the following steps:
S1: cut out the clothing anter of shirt, clothing rear panel, excessively shoulder, sleeve sheet, cuff and collar, get shirt clothing ready to buckle, shirt clothing is buckled with four buttonholes, the clothing anter of shirt and the latasuture of clothing rear panel are sewed up by the mode of machine stitching, processing is processed into shirt bodice, sewn together, for subsequent use with the rear shoulders of shirt bodice by crossing shoulder, by the mode of machine stitching will tuck inside the sleeve sheet closed sleeve seam, latasuture, and by has closed sleeve seam sleeve sheet and cuff be processed into shirt tuck inside the sleeve for subsequent use;
S2: shirt is crossed shoulder and undertaken sew by the mode of handspin and shirt bodice and process: mistake is takeed on and secretly hooks with the crop position difference of shirt bodice, the bodice secretly hooked is lain on boiling hot platform, seal off crossing the clothing front panel portion of shoulder with shirt bodice, after sealing off, get sewing needle and wear solid wire, stitch 0.15cm open-wire line, pin code 0.1cm at the crop position seam crossing hand crossing shoulder and shirt bodice, needle gage 0.5cm has stitched along front shoulder seam;
S3: shirt sleeve is carried out sewing with the shirt bodice processed in step S2 by the mode of handspin and processes: first the sleeve that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve is stitched when above tucking inside the sleeve and align with the latasuture of shirt bodice, the sleeve seam forwards 1cm again shirt tucked inside the sleeve, interval 1cm between the sleeve seam that shirt is tucked inside the sleeve and the latasuture of shirt bodice, shirt sleeve and shirt bodice suture are got and stitched part is 0.7cm, shirt sleeve is alignd first-class with shirt bodice suture according to stitching part 0.7cm, the bodice that first-class shirt is tucked inside the sleeve is placed on boiling hot platform sleeve model, the muffs position of flatiron shirt bodice, solid wire is worn with sewing needle, according to open-wire line 0.6cm, pin code 0.1cm, needle gage 0.5cm, manual seam is enclosed around muffs one,
S4: shirt clothing is buckled and adopts the mode of handspin to sew at the left front place of shirt bodice: wear 4 lines with sewing needle, get a buttonhole that shirt clothing buckles as benchmark buttonhole, from the nail nipping of benchmark buttonhole, based on benchmark buttonhole, sew back and forth between benchmark buttonhole and other three buttonholes successively according to clockwise or counterclockwise order, sew all back and forth twice between benchmark buttonhole and each buttonhole of other three buttonholes, the sky that rises that shirt clothing is buckled between left front measures 0.2 ~ 0.3cm, after having sewed, sewing needle is twined two circles around clasp, sewing needle is locked by nail catcher through left front reverse side small needle size,
S5: shirt collar is sewed up by the shirt bodice processed in the mode of machine stitching and S5.
2. shirt semi-hand bind as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: the method is further comprising the steps of:
Pentagon patch is stitched: pentagon patch is sewed the outer surface at clothing anter and clothing rear panel joint at the clothing anter of shirt bodice and the seam crossing hand of clothing rear panel, pentagon patch is buckled hot according to model, pentagon patch is placed on the position, base, side seam place of clothing anter and clothing rear panel, align with the side seam of clothing anter with clothing rear panel in an angle in five jiaos, align with the base of shirt bodice in the limit of the pentagon patch relative with the angle that the side seam of clothing anter and clothing rear panel is alignd, sewing needle is used to wear solid wire, pentagon patch and shirt bodice are secretly hooked, limit afterwards along pentagon patch adopts pin code 0.3cm along the limit open-wire line sewing of pentagon shape, all sew and fix two pins in the position at pentagon patch five angles.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201410119804.3A CN103859675B (en) | 2014-03-28 | 2014-03-28 | Semi-hand-sewing method for shirt |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201410119804.3A CN103859675B (en) | 2014-03-28 | 2014-03-28 | Semi-hand-sewing method for shirt |
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| CN103859675A CN103859675A (en) | 2014-06-18 |
| CN103859675B true CN103859675B (en) | 2015-05-13 |
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| CN201410119804.3A Active CN103859675B (en) | 2014-03-28 | 2014-03-28 | Semi-hand-sewing method for shirt |
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Families Citing this family (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104532493B (en) * | 2014-12-16 | 2016-08-31 | 青岛酷特智能股份有限公司 | Vest semi-hand bind |
| CN107581691A (en) * | 2017-10-25 | 2018-01-16 | 谢亚平 | A kind of western-style clothes keyhole and nail catcher preparation method |
| CN109662352B (en) * | 2018-12-12 | 2021-08-03 | 报喜鸟控股股份有限公司 | Shirt |
| CN110373821B (en) * | 2019-08-13 | 2021-06-18 | 广东金悦来自动化设备有限公司 | Sleeve shoulder connector sewing method |
| CN113349497B (en) * | 2021-06-30 | 2023-06-27 | 上海艺淼服饰有限公司 | Sewing method and garment |
| CN113367414B (en) * | 2021-07-05 | 2021-11-09 | 北京保罗盛世集团股份有限公司 | POLO shirt with collar difficult to wrinkle |
| CN113995181A (en) * | 2021-12-09 | 2022-02-01 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | Functional imitation woven stripe shirt and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN101081095A (en) * | 2007-03-26 | 2007-12-05 | 上海海螺服饰有限公司 | Composite shirt and the preparing method |
| CN202026806U (en) * | 2010-12-31 | 2011-11-09 | 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 | Shirt |
| CN102783715A (en) * | 2011-07-11 | 2012-11-21 | 金敬叶 | Novel shirt and producing method thereof |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH08209424A (en) * | 1995-02-02 | 1996-08-13 | Koji Takagi | Handmade clothing-making set |
| JP3007602B2 (en) * | 1998-02-17 | 2000-02-07 | カイタック株式会社 | Shirt manufacturing method |
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2014
- 2014-03-28 CN CN201410119804.3A patent/CN103859675B/en active Active
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101081095A (en) * | 2007-03-26 | 2007-12-05 | 上海海螺服饰有限公司 | Composite shirt and the preparing method |
| CN202026806U (en) * | 2010-12-31 | 2011-11-09 | 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 | Shirt |
| CN102783715A (en) * | 2011-07-11 | 2012-11-21 | 金敬叶 | Novel shirt and producing method thereof |
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| CN103859675A (en) | 2014-06-18 |
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Address after: The 266000 Avenue in Jimo city in Shandong province Qingdao City, No. 19 Patentee after: QINGDAO COTTE SMART CO., LTD. Address before: The 266000 Avenue in Jimo city in Shandong province Qingdao City, No. 19 Patentee before: QINGDAO KAIMIAO CLOTHING CO., LTD. |