JP3007602B2 - Shirt manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a shirt, and more particularly, to a method for manufacturing a shirt having a front opening or a front opening with a collar. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a shirt, in which an initial (or expected) form can be maintained even if a purchaser performs washing after purchase by processing in a process. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a shirt which prevents seam puckering in a fly and has no distortion such as distortion or twitching in a form after sewing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, typical forms of shirts include underwear shirts worn as underwear, knit (knitted) shirts such as T-shirts, and cloths (woven fabrics) worn as outerwear including blouses represented by Y-shirts. There is a shirt, a pajamas made of knit or cloth as a sleepwear, and the like. Shirts are further divided into shirts with collars and shirts without collars. In addition, many of these shirts are provided with opening specifications such as shoulder opening, front opening, and rear opening.

[0003]

Shirts provided with such opening specifications as shoulder opening, front opening, and rear opening are sold after being sewn in a manufacturing process after being shaped by a finishing shaping iron. After the purchase, washing the house once at home often causes it to lose its shape. In particular, shirts made of knitted fabric with excellent stretchability use an interlining that opens and stabilizes the collar at the opening part or the collar, so the initial form may be deformed after washing, causing inconvenience such as distortion and cracking. there were.

[0004] Since knitted fabrics are excellent in elasticity and adapt to the movement of the body to give a soft feeling of wearing, many knitted products are supported in the market as seen in T-shirts or polo shirts. Among them, there are many knit shirts with specifications in which the front opening is applied to the entire surface of the product, and since those products have a long front opening dimension from the neck (collar) part to the hem, distortion may occur after washing, The buyer was dissatisfied.

[0005] A shirt with a strain is worn by the purchaser after finishing with an iron. However, since many shirts using knitted fabric are thick, the heat and pressure of the iron are applied to the strained portion of the shirt. Therefore, there is a problem in that the damage is particularly fast and the durability is high.

In addition, a shirt made of a knitted fabric is difficult to stabilize the fabric performance as a reaction that is excellent in expansion and contraction, and it is possible to wash a single piece of fabric and two pieces of fabric such as a placket with an open specification or a collar. The rates were different, which contributed to distortion. In the area of the front opening or the collar, distortion was more likely to occur due to the use of the interlining which is reinforced stably. In particular, in the case of a shirt having a seam allowance on the side edge of the front body, there is a possibility that a remarkable shape loss may occur after washing by a purchaser.

[0007] The cloth fabric has almost no expansion and contraction as compared with the knitted fabric, and is hard to adjust to the movement of the body, but is thin and light, has good breathability, and has a function that does not easily lose its shape. It is used as a core material for blouses, casual shirts, dress shirts, etc.

However, a problem with a shirt made of a fabric material is that distortions such as seam puckering (wrinkles due to sewing threads generated along the seam) and strains such as cracks tend to occur. Further, as in the case of the shirt made of the knitted fabric, the shrinkage ratio due to washing is different between one piece of the fabric and two pieces of the fabric such as a placket of an opening specification or a collar, and distortion occurs. In particular, fabric fabrics hardly expand or contract, so even though there is a small dimensional difference, distortion in the form after washing is a serious problem for shirts made of fabric fabric more than shirts made of knitted fabric. Had become.

[0009] Usually, the purchaser's laundry is requested to a cleaning shop or performed by himself including a coin laundry. If you ask a laundry to do the laundry, it is safe because it is processed professionally, but if it gets out of shape, refinish it with an iron and it is the same as your own, and the damage is early The same is also true, of course, for a fee. In recent years, fully automatic washing machines or detergents with good performance have been developed, and the weight of washing at home has been increasing due to the spread of home dryers. In that sense, it has been desired to provide a shirt free from distortion such as distortion and twitching.

The cause of distortion in the above-described conventional shirt will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 61 is a development view showing the shape of a shirt of the front opening type according to the prior art, showing a left body DL1 and a left body back looking form from the back side of the fabric surface. A dashed line 9-13 is a front end line, and 9-13-12-10 indicated by oblique lines is a part to be a head and a part to which a head core is bonded at the same time. Also, a predetermined amount of sewing margin is applied to the side edge of 10-12.

FIG. 62 is an explanatory diagram showing a state in which the left body DL1 shown in FIG. 61 is folded back at the front end line 9-13. In the drawing, reference numeral 10-12 shows a state where the seam allowance portion is folded back. In this state, 2-9-10-
A part of 12-13- (4) is affixed with a double-faced core, and three pieces including the fabric are provided. The side edge of 10-12 has five pieces including the core because of the folded seam allowance. In this specification, ()
The symbol shown by is used to represent an invisible part.

[0013] Fig. 63 shows the front body of the shirt according to the prior art shown in Fig. 61, the left body DL1 and the front end line of the look back portion 9-13 and the side edges of 10, (2) -12, (4). It is explanatory drawing which shows the left body partly completed by wearing.

FIG. 64 is an explanatory view showing a state in which the left body of the partially completed shirt shown in FIG. 63 is washed and deformed by the generated distortion. The look back part and left body 1
-(2)-(4) -5-6-7 has a shrinkage difference in one part, the shrinkage of the left body is larger than the look back part, and the front end line of 9-13 is convex. You can see that it is curved.

FIG. 65 is a developed view showing the form of the left body DL2 and placket DM2 of another shirt according to the prior art. The placket is cut off at the front end of the dashed line 9-13 in FIG. 61, and is 9C-13C-12 in the illustrated shirt.
A -10 placket, a so-called extra placket, is formed. The left body shows the fabric surface from the front side, and the placket shows from the back side.

FIG. 66 is an explanatory view showing a state in which the prior art placket DM2 is turned over to the front end line 9-13 of the left body DL2 shown in FIG. 65 and the front end line 9C-13C is added from the front side of the cloth surface. The illustrated state is a state in which a placket core is adhered to the back surface of the placket. A predetermined amount of sewing margin is applied to the front end lines of the left body and the placket and folded back, and a predetermined amount of sewing margin is applied to the side edges 10-12 of the placket and folded back. In this state, since the front end line portion has a folded seam allowance, the number of sheets including the core is six.

FIG. 67 shows the left body DL2 shown in FIG. 65 and the front end line of the placket DM2 sewn to form a side edge 10-12 of the placket.
It is explanatory drawing which shows the left body partially completed also by sewing.

FIG. 68 is an explanatory view showing a state in which the left body shown in FIG. 67, which has been partially completed, is washed and deformed by the generated distortion. 9 of the additional placket
C, (9) -13C, (13) -12-10 and the left body part of 1-10-12-5-6-7 where the dough is a single piece, a difference in shrinkage ratio occurs, and the left side of the placket part The shrinkage ratio of the body part has increased, and the front end line shows a state of being convexly curved. However, shrinkage is suppressed at the front end line because the number of fabrics is six, and most of the forms of the shirt after washing actually have a wavy front end line as illustrated. In any case, FIG.
Like the shirts according to the related art shown in the above, it can be understood that there is a difference in shrinkage ratio for each fabric, and a difference in the form occurs, as in the case of the body and the look back.

Except for the one shown in FIG. 68, the shapes of the shirts according to the two prior arts after sewing are in a good shape without any distortion such as distortion or cracking. In the same way as shown in the illustration, even in a shirt that is actually commercially available,
The distortion has been apparently eliminated by the sewing technique. However, this is merely a temporary solution to the shape after sewing, and the above-mentioned shape loss occurs after washing, and thus cannot be a fundamental solution to distortion.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art and to provide a method of manufacturing a shirt with front-opening specifications. The strain generated during washing is treated in the manufacturing process, and the initial (or expected) form can be maintained even after washing. It is to provide a method of manufacturing an improved shirt.

Further, in the conventional manufacturing process of placket sewing of a collarless front-opening shirt, the most frequently applied specification is to attach a mold called an attachment or a wrapper to a sewing machine and separate the placket or the front body. It is a specification that the seam allowance of the placket is inserted through the attachment, bent and shaped, and simultaneously sewn. Also, since they are uniformly sewn while following the movement in proportion to the rotation speed of the sewing machine, they are formed with a uniform width or stitch line in the finished form, but at the start and end of sewing. It was not possible to apply the edges of the dough pieces while using the attachment with the upper or lower edges of the dough pieces visible, ie, the cut edges being cut off.

Next, the structure of the above-mentioned attachment will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings. FIG. 69 shows the structure of the above-mentioned attachment. First of all, it is composed of two pieces: an attachment body indicated by AT and a sewing machine attachment base indicated by ATB.
The TB is composed of a screw for fixing to the sewing machine and an adjusting screw for adjusting the position of the attachment after fixing, and has no direct relation to the cloth piece.

Here, 80-81 of the attachment body shown in the figure is the entrance of the cloth piece, and the cloth piece having the same width as the width of the entrance is to be inserted. It is necessary to use the attachment body of the same width as. Also, 80a, (81a)
-82 is an outlet, that is, the processing is completed during this time. The dough piece inserted from the entrance of 80-81 is 80
a, (81a), the bent portion (sewing allowance) is bent to the outlet of 80a, (81a), and the intermediate portion of 80-81 is further folded into two, and the processing is completed at the outlet of 82. Have. Furthermore, a structure is also provided in which the edge of the front body is sandwiched between the two bent portions 80a and (81a) and sewing is performed at the same time.

Further, the attachment has various structures even if the application is the same, and the attachment to be described is one of them.

FIG. 70 is a partial view of a lower end edge of a placket portion, showing a shape sewn to the front body by the attachment, which is a step immediately after the sewing is completed. The left body hem portion indicated by R1 is in a state where the hem has been cleaned up and finished. The position indicated by the arrow is the position of the sewing needle immediately after the sewing is completed, and the broken line joined to the arrow indicates the stitch. The bottom edge of the placket sewn in this way must be trimmed because the cut edge of the piece of cloth is ragged, and the seam indicated by a broken line until it is aligned with the same length as the hem part of the left body Unwind, then 80 ', 8
The cuts of Oa ', 82', 81a ', and 81' are folded to finish the hem, but a plurality of stitches have been generated due to the overlap sewing. Note that the same cleaning was performed on the upper edge of the placket.

FIG. 71 is a cross-sectional view of the shape sewn to the front body by the attachment as viewed from the skirt portion of the left body. The position indicated by the arrow is the position of the sewing needle at the time of sewing as described above.

If no attachment is used in the process of manufacturing the placket sewing of the front open shirt without a collar, if the attachment is not used, the middle stitch of the upper edge and the lower edge of the separated independent placket is applied once. In addition, it is usual that a plurality of seams are formed by sewing one side edge of the side edge of the placket, and further, by folding back the remaining seam margin of the side edge and sewing.

The shirt manufactured by using the above-mentioned attachment is formed with a uniform width or a seam line. However, the seam allowance of the placket or the placket, which is a continuation of the front body, is inserted through the attachment. By doing so, abrasion resistance occurs in the insertion portion, and the sewn portion gradually takes on any shape, causing the seam puckering or distortion such as distortion or cracking.

Also, in a shirt manufactured using an attachment, the sewing start and the sewing end are sewn twice as a separate process, so that the seam line is formed in an overlapped portion at that portion. As a result, the appearance was poor and the quality was deteriorated.

Even when the attachment is not used, a placket sewn portion formed by a plurality of stitches, or a front body, is a cause of distortion such as seam puckering or distortion or cracking.

Accordingly, a second object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned disadvantages of the prior art, without causing the aforementioned seam puckering or the cause of distortion such as distortion or cracking, and without deteriorating the appearance. And a method for manufacturing a shirt without lowering the quality.

[0032]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for producing a front opening shirt according to claim 1, comprising: Independently cutting at least a front body part and a placket part of the front opening shirt; b.
Completing said placket site; c. At least the front body part and the completed placket part are subjected to a washing test to determine shrinkage, and d. Cutting the front body part and the placket part of the front opening shirt again based on the determined shrinkage ratio; e. Sew a front body part and a placket part of the re-cut front opening shirt, and sew the back body part to sew the shirt; f. The sewn shirt is press-formed and / or washed to complete the sewn shirt.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, the shirt is a shirt having a collar, and the collar portion is cut independently in the step a, and the placket portion is extended by the collar width length in the step b. In the step c, the washing test was also performed on the collar portion.

According to a third aspect of the present invention, the back body portion is cut independently in the step a, and the washing test is also performed on the back body in the step c.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, in the step (a), the front part is cut into a symmetrical shape with the front edge of the front body part to be sewn as a virtual reference axis.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a shirt, wherein the front body portion and the placket portion of the front opening shirt are sewn at a time and the back body portion is sewn to complete the shirt. . Independently cutting at least a front body part and a placket part of the front opening shirt; h. Completing the placket site, i. Adhering a placket shaping core having a withdrawal hole in the placket to the placket; j. At least the seam allowance of the placket portion and the portion of the extraction hole
After folding and shaping and finishing, the respective parts were sewn together to complete the shirt.

According to a sixth aspect of the present invention, the shirt is a shirt having a collar, and the collar portion is cut independently in the step g, and the placket portion is extended by the collar width length in the step h. completed Te, and, in the step i adhered collar integer Katachishin having placket shaping core and extraction holes with the sampling hole in each of the placket site and the collar portion, seam allowance portion placket sites extending in the step j The collar end line was configured to be folded back at the site of the above-described extraction hole and shaped.

According to the second aspect, the same operation and effect can be obtained even when a shirt having a collar is manufactured.

According to the third aspect, it is possible to manufacture a shirt that does not lose its shape.

According to the fourth aspect, as in the third aspect, it is possible to manufacture a shirt that does not lose its shape.

According to the fifth aspect of the present invention, since the placket can be sewn in a single step by employing the above structure, a plurality of stitches do not exist. In addition, seam puckering can be prevented, so that distortion such as distortion or cracking does not occur, and the quality is stabilized. In addition, the placket has a drilling hole
The completed placket core is bonded, so the bonding is completed
In, it becomes a form with firm tension,
Conversely, there is no tension in the extraction hole, so it is easily folded
It is possible to fold the seam allowance accurately and quickly
I can .

According to the sixth aspect, the same operation and effect can be obtained even when a shirt having a collar is manufactured. Further, the placket shaping core and the collar shaping core in which the extraction holes are formed provide a stable shaping effect.

[0043]

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

First, the steps of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. 1. The front body part, the placket part, and the back body part are cut separately (separately and independently) (to form their fabric pieces). 2. The placket is completed (the interlining is bonded to the cutting placket). 3. The shrinkage ratio is obtained by performing a washing test on the front body part, the placket part completed product, and the back body part. 4. The front body part, the placket part, and the back body part are cut again according to the obtained reduction ratio. 5. With sewn placket site front body site that was re-the cut, it sewing sutured shirt rear body around the site. 6. Press-shaping the manufactured shirt to complete it. If the shape is not sufficiently corrected by press shaping, it is completed by washing.

Here, terms used in this specification are defined.

"Sewing" or "suturing" is basically used in distinction. "Sewing" is used to sew a front body, a back body, a collar and a placket, which are parts excluding sleeves, on a front body, a back body, and the like serving as a main body. "Suturing" is used to sew the front body, back body and sleeves as the main body of a sewn product, and to process the collar and placket as other parts as a single unit. "Sewing" is used when sewing is completed.

The "left body" or the "right body" is basically used in distinction, but is generally referred to as a "front body". When both are described collectively, they may be used as a front body. "Left placket" or "right placket" is basically used in distinction, but is generally referred to as "placket". When both are collectively described, they may be used as plackets.

Hereinafter, description will be made in accordance with the above-described steps.

FIG. 2 is an exploded view showing a cloth piece in which the front body part and the placket part have been formed or cut in step 1 described above. The cloth pieces L1 and R1 are a pair of a left body part L1 and a right body part R constituting a front body part of the shirt.
1, which is cut into a bilaterally symmetrical shape. Dough piece LM1,
RM1 is a placket site, and a pair of left placket sites LM1
And a right placket RM1 and is cut into a bilaterally symmetrical shape. LM1 is a piece of cloth corresponding to sewing to the left body L1 shown later, and RM1 is a piece of cloth corresponding to sewing to the right body part R1, and is a piece of cloth forming the front body in the first embodiment. . The cut shape of each dough piece shows the dough surface from the front side.

The left body part L1 will be described. The left body part L1 is a concave edge 1-2 which becomes a part of the neck, and a side edge 2- which is sewn to a left placket part indicated by LM1 later.
3-4 (3 located in the middle of 2-4 is a joint mark;
4 is an intermediate point for making an evenly sewn state when sewing with the left placket LM1 shown later), a lower edge 4-5 that becomes a part of the hem, and a rear body part shown later Side edge 5-6 which is sewn to the left side line portion, the concave side edge 6-7 which is sewn to the left sleeve portion shown below and becomes the armhole portion, and the left shoulder line portion which is sewn to the rear body portion shown later The upper edge 7-1,
Is formed. Note that the description of the left body part L1 is also valid for the right body part R1 having a symmetrical shape.

The left placket LM1 will be described.
The concave upper end edge 8-9-10, which is a part of the neck, and the dotted line 9-13, are folded back to become the front end line shown later. The straight side 10-11-12 is folded back at the above 9-13, aligned with and matched to the straight side 14-15-8, and sewn to the side edge 2-3-4 of the left body part L1. Part. Also, 11 and 15 are suffixes like 3 of the left body L1 and are intermediate points for achieving an even sewing state, and are portions that match 3 on the side edge of the left body portion L1. It is. Note that the description of the left placket LM1 also applies to the right placket RM1 having a bilaterally symmetrical shape.

FIG. 3 is a developed view showing a cloth piece forming the above-mentioned back body part. The cut shape of the fabric piece shows the fabric surface from the back side. The cloth piece B1 is a rear body part of the shirt, and has a concave upper end edge 21-16-21 which becomes a part of the neck.
R, upper edge 21R-20R sewn to 1R-7R of the right body part R1 to form a right shoulder, concave side edge 20R-19 to be sewn to a right sleeve part shown later to form a right arm around
R, sewn to 6R-5R of the right body part R1 and side edges 19R-18R to be a right side line part, lower end edges 18R-17-18 to be a part of a hem, and to the left body part L1 Side edge 18-19 which becomes a left side line portion, a concave side edge 19-20 which is sewn to a left sleeve portion shown later and becomes a left arm around portion,
It is formed from an upper edge 20-21 that is sewn to the left body part L1 7-1 and becomes a left shoulder line. 16-17 indicated by a dashed line is the back center of the back body part B1,
-17-18-19-20-21 becomes the left body (left body) of the back body part, and is 16-21R-20R-19R-1.
8R-17 is the right body (right half) of the back body part. The left body part and the right body part are formed in a bilaterally symmetrical shape with reference to 16-17 indicated by a dashed line.

FIG. 4 is a developed view showing the cut shape of the above-mentioned adhesive interlining cloth piece from the back side of the cloth surface. Left placket
The ground LS1 has the same shape as the left placket LM1,
The back surface is glued to enable bonding. Incidentally, description of the left placket core areas LS1 is also valid for bilaterally shape of right placket core areas RS1.

In the shirt according to the prior art shown in FIG. 61 and the like, the facing portion is folded along a broken line 9-13, and an adhesive core is stuck thereon. This was the cause of shape loss. Further, in the prior art, measures to prevent such failure cannot be taken because the body is kept looking back.

Therefore, in the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the present invention, as shown in FIG. 5, the back of the body is cut off in the step 1, and the left body part L1 and the left placket part LM1 are separated from each other by the independently separated cloth piece. I tried to cut it. The left placket LM1 is cut off at 2-4, and is expanded and completed at the front end line 9-13 shown by the broken line, indicating that it has been completed. In this cut shape, as described in FIG.
A left body part L1 and a left placket part LM1 having the same fabric shape as the front side are shown, but a process of separating the front body of the shirt according to the prior art to form a left body part L1 and a left placket part LM1 will be described. For convenience of understanding, the fabric surface is shown from the back side continuously from FIGS. 61 and 62, and the fabric piece in this embodiment also shows the fabric surface from the back side.

FIG. 6 is an explanatory view for further explaining the left placket LM1 obtained in the step 2, and is an explanatory view showing a state before processing as a washing test part used in the step 3. In the cut shape, the cloth surface is shown from the front side, and the left placket LS1 having the same shape as the left placket LM1 is adhered to the whole surface on the back surface, and a placket portion of a prototype of a shirt to which a predetermined amount of sewing margin is added. It is. The length of the placket indicated by H1 is the straight side 10-11-12 and the straight side 14-15-8 indicated by the left placket LM1, and is further divided into two intermediate points 11 and 15, H2 and H3. It consists of the split placket length indicated by. still,
The description of the left placket LM1 is also valid for the right placket RM1 having a bilaterally symmetric shape.

FIG. 7 is an explanatory view showing that the left placket LS1 is adhered to the entire surface of the left placket LM1 similarly obtained in the above-mentioned step 2 to produce a washing test part left placket LC1. 10-11-
12 is folded at 9-13, and 14-15 which is a straight side
8, 13-13-14, (12) -8,
(10) is sewn to form a placket part having the same form as the product in an independent and separated state.

Similarly, the washing test part right placket RC1 having a bilaterally symmetric shape is also a washing test part. That is,
In the washing test in the step 3, a predetermined washing test is performed on the left body part L1, the right body part R1, and the back body part B1 of the cloth piece in the same environment, and shrinkage for each cloth piece or each laundry test part is performed. Get rate results.

FIG. 8 is a data diagram showing the results of the washing test described above. The washing test was carried out in accordance with JIS, and the dimensions after one, five, and ten times of washing were set up, the width was measured, and the shrinkage was determined from the measured value and the value before washing. still,
In the figure, a numerical value with a minus sign indicates elongation.
A and B at the end of the figure indicate two types of test pieces.

FIG. 9 shows the left body part L1A after the shrinkage ratio correction, which is recut by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference in the step 4 based on the shrinkage result of the washing test part, and the shrinkage ratio. It is a development view which shows the cut shape of the cloth piece of the left placket part LM1A after the amount correction from the front side of the cloth surface. Here, the reduction ratio amount correction is developed based on the data of FIG. 8, but the description of the correction amount of the reduction ratio amount becomes very complicated, and for convenience of understanding, the reduction ratio of L1A is described in the description of the correction method described above. The amount correction is 6%, and the LM1A is set at 3%.
The balance shown in the figure will be described as being substantially equivalent. In other words, in L1A, the front body and plait stitching length indicated by H1B is approximately 6 for the left body L1 and the right body R1 of the cloth piece.
In order to make it possible to restore the initial form even after the purchaser has washed the house at home, the amount of shrinkage was corrected by adding 6% to L1A. H1 in the washing test part LC1
Since it was considered that the placket length indicated by A was reduced by almost 3%,
A left placket LS1 having the same shape as the left placket LM1, which is the prototype of LC1, was also added with 3% as a correction for the amount of shrinkage reduction, and was cut again as LM1A while both were adhered to each other. Thus, the sewing length of L1A and LM1A is corrected as 3%,
explain.

On the other hand, L1A is H
With the upper part 2 of the front body and plait sewing length shown by 1B as the origin, it is 3 by the divided front body and plait sewing length 2-3A shown by H2B.
%, H3B before split and placket sewing length 3A
Further, 3% is added at -4A to make a total of 6%, and the front body and plait sewing length indicated by H1B is used. Similarly, the side edges 5A-6A which are sewn to the rear body portion shown later and become the left side line portion are also subjected to a reduction ratio correction by an equivalent ratio,
Similarly, in the concave edge 6A-7 corresponding to the left sleeve portion LS of the normal form to be sewn later, L1A was corrected by adding a reduction ratio by an equivalent ratio. The left placket LM1A was added by 3% as a modification of the shrinkage ratio. However, 1.5% was added to the divided placket length indicated by H2A, and 1.5% was added to the divided placket length indicated by H3A to make a total of 3%. The placket length indicated by. Also, at the same time, the right body R1A
And RM1A are also cut again.

FIG. 10 is also a developed view showing the back body part B1A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference based on the shrinkage result of the washing test in step 4. Similar to the description of the left body L1A, the reduction ratio correction is set to 6%, and the balance shown in the drawing is almost equivalent to L1A. In the side edge 18A-19A which is sewn to the left body part L1A and becomes a left side line part, and in the concave edge 19A-20 corresponding to the left sleeve LS of a normal form shown later, the left shoulder line part The upper end edge 20 is added to the origin by 6% as a reduction in the amount of shrinkage, and is sewn to the right body R1A and sewn to the side edge 18RA-19RA serving as the right side line portion, and the right sleeve RS in the normal form shown later. Concave edge 19RA-20RA
Indicates that the upper edge 20R, which is the right shoulder, is corrected to be 6% added to the origin as a reduction ratio.

In the first embodiment, a description will be given of a vertical sewing difference in a front body part or a placket part with respect to distortion such as distortion and cracking. Based on the above, the same reduction ratio correction is performed.

In the above description, the correction of the shrinkage ratio between the front body part and the back body part was 6%, and the placket was set at 3%. The difference in shrinkage ratio between the front body portion and the placket portion results in the opposite shrinkage ratio, that is, in many cases, elongation occurs. In particular, for knits, the elongation of the washing shrinkage may occur, and the amount of shrinkage differs between the fabrics and the knits.

FIG. 11 shows the left body part L1A after the correction of the shrinkage amount and the left placket part LM1A after the correction of the shrinkage amount, which are obtained in the step 5 in the form of the difference in the sewing length of 3%. It is explanatory drawing which shows the shape which stitched. The straight side (10)-(11A)-(12A) of LM1A is folded back at 9-13A to the side edge (2)-(3A)-(4A) of L1A and aligned with the straight side 14A-15A-8. In the shape constituted by the form in which the sewn length is 3% different, the front end line shown by 9-13A has a gentle concave shape due to the difference in the length of the side edge of L1A by 3%. 8, (2), (10) -14A,
In the front body part of the left placket sewn part in (4A) and (12A), a sewing wrinkle occurs. The lower edges of 14A, (4A) and (12A) -5A, which are part of the hem, are LM
L1A and LM where 1A draws a gentle convex curve due to the effect of the volume difference 3% shorter, and distortions such as distortion and cracks occur.
1A shows the left body part, and at the same time, the right body part is formed by the symmetrical shapes R1A and RM1A.

FIG. 12 also shows that the left body part L1A and the right body part R1A obtained in the step 5 are sewn at the left shoulder line part and the right shoulder line part of the back body part B1A, and further, the left side line part and the right side line The left sleeve part LS and the right sleeve part RS in the normal form
FIG. 11 is a front view showing a shirt which is sewn to give a normal form of neck-closing cloth or hem-closing cloth shown by P, sewn buttons shown by BT, and sewn. In order to enable the shape retention after washing, which is a characteristic structure of the shirt manufactured by the method according to the present invention, the shape of the shirt obtained by treating the strain of the washing shrinkage ratio in the above-mentioned process is good. Is shown. The buttons indicated by BT are set at a predetermined number and at intervals according to the length of the product. Also, the back body part B1
In A, in the vertical direction in the left body, the right body, and the sewn portions of the sleeves corresponding to the suturing, since the correction value for the amount of reduction in the vertical direction is equivalent to 6%, no distortion such as distortion or cracking occurs.
Note that, in the figure, the strain is shown only on the left body by L1A and LM1A. Similar distortions such as distortion and cracks occur in the right body due to the left and right symmetrical shapes R1A and RM1A, but are not seen in the left body as seen in the figure. Although omitted for the sake of simplicity of illustration, a sewing wrinkle similar to that shown in FIG.

[0067] Figure 13 is obtained in the step 6, after the shirt distortion occurs, such as distortion and taking along the above-mentioned pressed shaping, treated with washing process is a front view showing a completed state. The 3% shorter difference in the length of the placket indicates that the shape was stretched and absorbed here to absorb the distortion including the sewing wrinkles, and the shape shown in the figure was obtained. At the same time, the "washing process" is performed on the shirt having the shape in which the distortion has occurred, and the distortion of the washing shrinkage in the entire shirt is absorbed to show the state of the product. In other words, "washing" means that the product is finally completed.

FIG. 14 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG. In other words, this shows a form in which the product has been subjected to the “washing process” to absorb the distortion of the washing shrinkage ratio of the entire shirt and become a product.

Even after the above-mentioned "washing process", if a further distortion occurs due to a difference in fabric performance, the distortion is partially corrected.

In the first embodiment of the present invention, since the structure is as described above, whether the material is a cloth or a knit, a placket consisting of one piece of cloth and two pieces of cloth, or after washing the collar part, Distortions such as cracks and tears can be handled in the manufacturing process, so it is possible for the buyer to retain the initial form even after washing after purchase, and it is not necessary or necessary to refinish the iron due to shape loss. Durability and quality can be improved.

Next, a method for manufacturing a shirt according to the second embodiment of the present invention will be described. The steps are the same as in the first embodiment.

FIG. 15 is a developed view showing a cloth piece forming the collar portion CA2 of the shirt obtained in the step 1 according to the second embodiment of the present invention. The figure shows the fabric surface from the front side in the cut shape. The collar portion CA2 is sewn to the neck of the left body portion shown after approximately the straight side 22-2
3. 23-24-23 sewn around the neck of the back body
R, approximately straight side 23 sewn around the neck of the right body
An upper edge formed by R-22R, and a lower edge 27-26-25-26R which is a substantially straight line corresponding to the upper edge.
-27R, a side edge 22-28-27 which is sewn to a part of the left placket shown later, and a side edge 22R-28R which is sewn to a part of the right placket shown later
-27R. In the collar part CA2, 28-28R indicated by a broken line is folded back to form a collar end line, and the collar end line is used as an axis for 28-22-23-24-23R-2.
2R-28R becomes the back collar part, 28R-27R-26
R-25-26-27-28 is a front collar portion, and the back collar and the front collar have a shape in which the upper and lower symmetric shapes are continuous, and have a single collar configuration.

The collar portion CA2 composed of the back collar portion and the front collar portion includes a left collar portion corresponding to the neck of the left body portion including the left body portion of the back body portion, and a right collar portion of the back body portion. It consists of a neck around the right body part and a right collar part corresponding to sewing. When 24-25 is classified as a virtual axis, 25-
26-27-28-22-23-24 is the left collar, and 24-23R-22R-28R-27R-26R-
25 is a right collar part. The left collar portion and the right collar portion are bilaterally symmetrical with respect to the imaginary axis 24-25.

FIG. 16 shows a process 1 in the second embodiment.
It is a development view which shows the cloth piece which formed the front body part of the shirt obtained by. The cloth pieces L2 and R2 are a pair of left body part L2 and right body part R2 constituting the front body part of the shirt, and are cut into a symmetrical shape. Also, dough piece LM
2 and RM2 are placket parts, and a pair of left placket parts L
M2 and a right placket RM2 are cut into a bilaterally symmetrical shape. LM2 is a piece of cloth corresponding to a part of the collar part CA2 shown later and the left body part L2,
RM2 is a cloth piece corresponding to a part of the collar part CA2 and the right body part R2, and forms a front body part of the shirt obtained by the manufacturing method according to the second embodiment. In addition, the cut shape of each dough piece shows the dough surface from the front side.

The left body part L2 will be described. A concave edge 29-30 which becomes a part of the neck, and a side edge 30-31-32 which is sewn to the left placket shown later as LM2.
(31 located in the middle of 30-32 is a joint mark, and 30
-32 is an intermediate point for making an evenly sewn state when sewn the side edge with the left placket shown later),
A lower edge 32-33 which becomes a part of a hem, a side edge 33-34 which is sewn to a rear body part shown below and becomes a left side line part, and a concave side edge which is sewn to a left sleeve and which becomes an armhole part shown later 34-3
5. The upper edge 35-29 which is sewn to the back body part shown later and becomes the left shoulder part is formed. In addition, this left body part L2
The above description is also valid for the right body part R2 having a symmetrical shape.

The left placket LM2 will be described.
The upper edge 36-37-38 which becomes a part of the collar part shown later,
37-41 indicated by a broken line is a portion which is turned back and becomes a front end line shown later. The straight sides 38-39-40 are folded back at the above-mentioned 37-41 to form the straight sides 42-43-3.
6, and a collar is sewn around the neck of the left body L2 shown later to form a side edge 30-31-3 of the left body L2.
It is a portion which is sewn in a form in which a side edge continuous with 2 is formed. 39 and 43 are joint marks in the same manner as 31 of the left body L2, and are intermediate points for uniform sewing, and are portions that match 31 on the side edge of the left body part L2. is there. The description of the left placket LM2 also applies to the right placket RM2 having a bilaterally symmetrical shape.

FIG. 17 is a developed view showing a cloth piece forming the back body part of the shirt obtained in step 1 of the second embodiment. In addition, the cut shape of the cloth piece shows the cloth surface from the back side. The cloth piece B2 is a rear body part of the shirt, and has a concave upper end edge 49-44-49 which becomes a part of the neck.
R, upper edge 49R-48R sewn to 29R-35R of the right body region R2 to form a right shoulder, concave side edge 48R-47 sewn to the right sleeve region shown later to form a right arm link
R, side edges 47R-46R which are sewn to 34R-33R of the right body part R2 to be a right side line portion, lower end edges 46R-45-46 to be a part of hem, and are sewn to the left body part L2. Side edges 46-47 which are left side line portions, and concave side edges 47-4 which are sewn to the left sleeve portion shown later and become left arm borrow portions.
8. The upper edge 48-49, which is sewn to the left body part L2 35-29 and becomes the left shoulder, is formed. 44-45 indicated by a dashed line is the back center of the back body part B2, 44-45-46-47-48-49 is the left body (left half body) of the back body part, and 44-49R -48
R-47R-46R-45 is the right body (right half) of the back body part. The left body part and the right body part are formed in a bilaterally symmetrical shape with reference lines 44-45 indicated by a chain line. Thus, the back body obtained by the manufacturing method according to the second embodiment is the same as the back body of the shirt according to the first embodiment.

FIG. 18 is a development view of a cut shape of the cloth piece of the adhesive interlining obtained in the step 1 in the second embodiment, as viewed from the back side of the cloth surface. Collar core CS2
Has the same shape as that of the collar portion CA2, and has a back surface subjected to glue processing for enabling bonding. In addition, left placket LS
Reference numeral 2 has the same shape as the left placket LM2, and the back surface is glued like the collar core. Note that the description of the left placket LS2 will be described in the left-right symmetric shape of the right placket R.
S2 is also valid.

Next, in step 2, each piece of cloth CA2, L2, LM2, R2, RM2, B2, CS
2, LS2, RS2, and a left sleeve part indicated by LS in a normal form shown later and a right sleeve part indicated by RS are sewn and sewn.

FIG. 19 is an explanatory view showing that a collar core CS2 is adhered to the entire surface of the collar portion CA2 to form a laundry test component collar CA2. 22-23 which is sewn with the neck of the left body shown after the substantially straight side, 2 which is sewn with the neck of the back body
3-24-23R, 23R sewn around the right body neck
The upper edge of -22R is folded back at 28-28R,
This is the original shirt collar of the shirt with a certain amount of seam allowance. Also, it is shown that 28-28R formed by folding is sewn as a collar end line.

FIG. 20 is a developed view for further explaining the left placket LM2, and shows a state before machining as a washing test part. In the cut shape, the cloth surface is shown from the front side, and the left placket LS2 having the same shape as the left placket LM2 is adhered to the entire surface on the back surface. It is. The length of the placket indicated by H4 is 38- which is the straight side indicated by the left placket LM2.
39-40 and 42-43-36 which are straight sides,
This portion is sewn into a form in which a collar is sewn around the neck of the left body part L2 shown later to form a side edge continuous with the side edge 30-31-32 of the left body part L2. Furthermore, it is bisected at the intermediate points 39 and 43,
And H6. Note that the description of the left placket LM2 also applies to the right plait RM2 having a bilaterally symmetric shape.

FIG. 21 is an explanatory view showing that the left placket LS2 is adhered to the entire surface of the left placket LM2 to form a left placket LC2 for a washing test part. The straight side 38-39-40 is folded back at 37-41, and is aligned and matched with the straight side 42-43-36.
2, (40) -36, (38) are sewn to form a placket part having the same form as the finished product in an independently separated state. still,
The description of the washing test part LC2 is also valid for the right and left symmetrical washing test part RC2.
In addition, a predetermined washing test is performed in the same environment for the collar portion CA2, the left body portion L2, the right body portion R2, and the back body portion B2 of the cloth piece, and a reduction ratio result for each cloth piece or each laundry test part is obtained. This is the same as in the first embodiment.

FIG. 22 shows the results of the washing test. The test method is the same as in the first embodiment.

FIG. 23 shows the cut shape of the cloth piece of the collar portion CA2A after the correction of the shrinkage amount, which was cut again by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference in step 4 based on the shrinkage result of the washing test part. FIG. 3 is a development view of FIG. The CA2A shrinkage amount correction in the second embodiment is 3% in both the vertical direction corresponding to sewing on the placket and the horizontal direction corresponding to sewing around the neck. In other words, in the laundry test part CA2, it is considered that both the vertical and horizontal directions have shrunk by about 3%, and the purchaser can restore the original shape even after washing at home, so that the original CA2 To the collar core CS2 of the same shape, 3% was added as a correction for the amount of shrinkage, and a collar portion CA2A was formed in a state where both were adhered to each other.

The collar portion CA2A has a bilaterally symmetrical shape with 24-25A as an imaginary axis.
Upper and lower symmetrical shapes with A-28RA as the axis. Therefore,
For convenience of understanding, description will be made on the left collar portion. Collar part CA
2A is an upper end edge which is a substantially straight line side and has an origin at 24 which is one point of an imaginary axis, and is sewn to a neck around a left body shown later.
-23A, 23A-24 sewn to the neck of the left body (left body) of the back body, with a 3% reduction in the lateral direction, and a straight line sewn to a part of the left placket shown below The side edges 22A-28A-27A, which are the sides, are modified by adding a 3% reduction in the longitudinal direction and further adding 3% to the 24-25A. Further, the description of the left collar portion is also valid for the right collar portion having a symmetrical shape.

FIG. 24 shows the left body part L2A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of the shrinkage difference in the step 4, based on the shrinkage result of the washing test part, and the after-shrinkage amount correction. 5 is a development view of the cut shape of the cloth piece of the left placket LM2A, which is shown from the front side of the cloth surface. Similarly to the first embodiment, the modification of the reduction ratio of the L2A in the second embodiment is also set to 6%, and the setting of the LM2A is set to 3%.

Further, in the same manner as in the first embodiment, the stitch length of the left body part L2A after the correction of the shrinkage amount and the sew length of the left placket part LM2A after the correction of the shrinkage amount are 3% different. However, in the correction of the shrinkage ratio, L2A is added by 3% at the divided front body and plait sewing length 30A-31A indicated by H5B with the upper part of the front body and plaiting sewing length indicated by H4B as the origin, and H6 is added.
A further 3% is added to the divided front body / placket sewing length 31A-32A indicated by B to make a total of 6%, thereby constituting the front body / placket sewing length indicated by H4B. The origin of the upper part of the placket sewing length is the concave edge 29A-3 which is a part of the neck around the left body.
Since the position is indicated by P of 0A, the P-29A of the concave edge corresponding to the origin is also corrected by a 6% reduction ratio. The HB shown in the configuration of H4B
Is a portion formed by extending the width of the collar to the placket in the first embodiment. When CA2A shown later is sewn around the neck as a collar, the left front portion is formed as a part of the collar. This is a portion corresponding to sewing to the standing portion LM2A. Similarly, a side edge 3 which is sewn to a rear body portion shown later and becomes a left side line portion
In 3A-34A, the reduction ratio is corrected by the same ratio. Similarly, a left sleeve portion L in a normal form shown later.
At the concave edges 34A-35A, which are sewn to S, the shrinkage amount was corrected by the same ratio to obtain L2A.
In addition, the left placket LM2A has 3%
However, 1.5% was added at the split placket length indicated by H5A, and 1.5% was added at the split placket length indicated by H6A.
%, And constitutes the placket length indicated by H4A. Further, the right body R2A and RM2A of the bilaterally symmetrical shape are also corrected in the same manner.

FIG. 25 is a developed view showing the back body part B2A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference in step 4 based on the shrinkage result of the washing test. As with the left body part L2A, the reduction ratio is 6%.
, And the balance shown in the figure is almost equivalent to L2A. In addition, the left shoulder line portion is provided at the side edges 46A-47A which are sewn to the left body portion L2A to form a left side line portion, and the concave edge portions 47A-48A which are sewn to the left sleeve portion LS of a normal form shown later. 6% is added to the origin as a correction for the amount of reduction of the shrinkage ratio. A side edge 46RA-47RA sewn to the right body part R2A to be a right side line part, and a concave edge 4 corresponding to a normal form right sleeve part RS to be sewn later.
In 7RA-48RA, the top edge 4 is the right shoulder
8RA was added to the origin as a correction of the amount of reduction by 6%, and 6% was added to the concave upper edge 49A-44A-49RA, which is a part of the neck, corresponding to the sewing to the collar portion CA2A.

In the second embodiment as well, similar to the first embodiment, the distortion will be described with respect to the sewing difference in the vertical direction. However, the shrinkage amount is also corrected for the width in the horizontal direction. .

FIG. 26 shows that the left body part and the right body part in Step 5 are sewn at the left shoulder line part and the right shoulder line part of the back body part B2A, and further sewn at the left side line part and the right side line part. The collar portion CA2A is sewn around the neck formed by suturing the front body portion and the back body portion, and the left sleeve LS and the right sleeve R in a normal form are sewn.
It is a front view showing the state where S was stitched. The sewing length between the neck and the collar portion CA2A is constituted by 3%, and a sewing wrinkle indicated by NS occurs due to the difference of 3% longer at the neck between the front body portion and the back body portion. This indicates that distortion has occurred. Further, in a state where the collar portion is sewn, the collar portion of 28A-22A, (30A), and (27A) is obtained by extending the collar width length shown in the configuration of the front body and plait sewing length of the H4B. The left placket part LM2A and the part corresponding to the sewing afterward.
The collar portions of 2RA, (30RA), and (27RA) are portions corresponding to the right placket RM2A by sewing.

FIG. 27 shows the left placket part LM2A and the right placket part RM2A after the front body part and the back body part of FIG. 26 are sewn, the collar part is sewn, and the sleeves are sewn. It is a front view which shows the shape which stitched.
This indicates that distortions such as distortion and cracks have occurred in the neck and the front body and placket. In the back body part B2A, in the vertical direction, since the correction value for the amount of shrinkage is 6%, which is the same, no distortion such as distortion or cracking occurs, and distortion occurs only in the neck portion in the lateral direction.

The shapes of the front body part and the placket part before the buttons are sewn are almost the same as those in the first embodiment. In a state corresponding to sewing on the collar part and the front body part, the sewing length is configured in the form of a 3% difference. In the shape, the front end line indicated by 37-41A of the left placket LM2A is L
The side edge of 2A draws a gentle concave curve under the influence of the volume difference of 3% longer, and 42A, (32) which becomes the bottom of the left body part
LM2A from A), (40A) to the bottom of the left side line
Draws a gentle convex curve under the influence of the volume difference that is 3% shorter,
L2A and LM2A with distortion such as distortion and cracking
Shows the body part of the left body. R2A and RM with bilateral symmetry
Similar distortions such as distortion and cracks occur in the right body due to 2A, but the left body part is not visible in the drawing. Although omitted for the sake of simplicity of illustration, a sewing wrinkle similar to that of the first embodiment has occurred at the front body portion of the placket sewing portion.

FIG. 28 is a front view showing a state in which the shirt shown in FIG. 27, in which the distortion such as distortion and cracking has occurred, has been subjected to washing including press shaping, and the collar has been folded back to complete. It should be noted that the 3% shorter difference in length of the placket is extended here, and the neck around the front body and the back body absorbs the distortion including the sewing wrinkle, which is affected by the 3% longer difference in length, and the form shown in the drawing is obtained. Is shown.

FIG. 29 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG.
In the shirt obtained by the manufacturing method according to the second embodiment, it is shown that the shirt is completed by the washing process, as in the first embodiment.

In the second embodiment, as described above, in a shirt having a collar, whether it is a cloth or a knit, a placket consisting of one piece of cloth and two pieces of cloth, or a collar Since the distortion generated after washing of the part can be handled in the manufacturing process, it is possible for the buyer to retain the initial form even after washing after purchasing, and it is not necessary to refinish the iron due to shape collapse, Alternatively, durability and quality can be improved with a slight degree.

Next, a method for manufacturing a shirt according to the third embodiment of the present invention will be described. The steps are the first and second steps.
This is the same as the embodiment.

FIG. 30 shows a process 1 in the third embodiment.
FIG. 4 is a development view showing a piece of cloth forming a collar portion CA3 of the shirt obtained in the above, and shows a cloth surface from the front side in a cut shape. The collar part CA3 is sewn to a part of the left placket part shown after the straight side, and the 50-51 edge is sewn to the neck of the left body part shown after the loose, substantially concave part, 51-52 to be sewn. Upper edge, right placket formed by 52-53-52R, which is a substantially straight side sewn to the neck of the back body portion, and loose, substantially concave side 52R-51R, sewn to the neck of the right body portion 51 sewn with a part of
R-50R edges, 57-56-55-54-55R-56R-57R, which would correspond to their respective edges,
Lateral edge 50 which is a straight side that forms the silhouette of the left collar later
-58-57, and side edges 50R-58R-57R, which are straight sides forming the silhouette of the right collar later. The collar part CA3 is indicated by a broken line at 58-58R, which is folded back to form a collar end line.
52-53-52R-51R-50 R- 58R is the back collar, and 58R-57R-56R-55R-54-5
Reference numeral 5-56-57-58 denotes a front collar portion, and the back collar and the front collar have a shape in which the upper and lower symmetrical shapes are continuous with each other, and have a single collar structure.

A collar portion CA3 composed of the back collar portion and the front collar portion has a left neck portion corresponding to the neck portion of the left body portion including the left half body of the back body portion and a part of the left placket portion. It consists of a part, a neck around the right body part including the right half of the back body part, and a right collar part corresponding to a part of the right placket sewn. When 53-54 is classified as a virtual axis, 54-55
-56-57-58-50-50-52-53 is the left collar part, and 53-52R-51R-50R-58R-5.
7R-56R-55R-54 is the right collar part. Also,
The left collar portion and the right collar portion are bilaterally symmetrical with respect to the virtual axis 24-25.

FIG. 31 is a development view of a cloth piece forming a front body portion of the shirt obtained in step 1 of the third embodiment. The cloth pieces L3 and R3 are a pair of left body part L3 and right body part R3 constituting the front body part of the shirt, and are cut into a symmetrical shape. The cloth pieces LM3 and RM3 are placket parts, and are composed of a pair of left placket part LM3 and right placket part RM3, and are cut into a bilaterally symmetrical shape. LM3 is a piece of fabric corresponding to a part of the collar part CA3 shown later and the left body part L3, and RM3 is a piece of cloth corresponding to a part of the collar part CA3 and the right body R3, It is a cloth piece that forms the front body part of the shirt according to the manufacturing method in the third embodiment. In addition, the cut shape of each piece of the dough shows the dough surface from the front side.

To explain the left body part L3, a loose, substantially concave side 59-60 which becomes a part of the neck,
Slowly corresponding to the left placket shown by LM3 and sewing,
Side edge 60-61-62 composed of substantially convex sides and straight lines
(61 located in the middle of 60-62 is a joint mark, and 60
-62 is an intermediate point for making an evenly sewn state when sewing with the left placket shown later), the lower edge 62-63 which becomes a part of the hem, and the rear body part shown later Side edges 63-64 which are sewn to the left side line portion, concave side edges 64-65 which are sewn to the left sleeve portion shown later and become the armhole portion,
It is sewn to the back body part shown later and is formed with the upper edge 65-59 which becomes the left shoulder line part. Note that the description of the left body part L3 is also valid for the right body part R3 having a bilaterally symmetrical shape.

FIG. 32 shows a step 1 in the third embodiment.
It is a development view of the cloth piece which forms the back body part obtained by. In addition, the cut shape of the cloth piece shows the cloth surface from the back side. The cloth piece B3 is the back body part of the shirt,
A concave upper edge 79-74-79R that becomes a part of the neck, an upper edge 79R-78R that is sewn with the right body portion R3 59R-65R and becomes a right shoulder, and a right arm that is sewn with a right sleeve portion shown later A concave side edge 78R-77R that becomes a boring part,
Side edges 77R-76R, which are sewn to the right body part R3 64R-63R to form a right side line part, lower end edges 76R-75-76, which are part of the skirt, and left sewn to the left body part L3 A side edge 76-77 serving as a side line portion, a concave side edge 77-78 serving as a left arm portion sewn to a left sleeve portion shown later, and a left shoulder line portion sewn to 65-59 of the left body portion L3. Upper edges 78-79. In addition, 74-75 indicated by a dashed line is the back center of the back body part B3,
-75-76-77-78-79 is the left body (left body) of the back body part, and 74-79R-78R-77
R-76R-75 is the right body (right body) of the back body part. The left and right body parts are indicated by dashed lines 74-7.
5 is formed in a bilaterally symmetrical shape with reference axis 5. As described above, the back body part has the same shape as the back body in the first and second embodiments.

FIG. 33 shows a step 1 in the third embodiment.
2 is a development view of the cut shape of the cloth piece of the adhesive interlining, as viewed from the back side of the cloth surface. The collar core CS3 has the same shape as the collar portion CA3, and the back surface is subjected to a glue process that enables bonding. The left placket LS3 has the same shape as the left placket LM3, and the back surface is glued like the collar core. Note that the description of the left upright LS3 is also valid for the right upright RS3 having a symmetrical shape.

Also in the third embodiment, in step 2, each of the cloth pieces CA3, L3, LM3, R
3, RM3, B3, CS3, LS3, and RS3 are sewn and sewn to the left sleeve portion indicated by LS in a normal form shown later and the right sleeve indicated by RS.

FIG. 34 shows that the collar core CS3 was adhered to the entire surface of the collar portion CA3 to form a washing test component collar CA3. 50-51 edge sewn to a part of the left placket part shown after the straight side, 51-52 sewn to the neck of the left body part shown after the loose, substantially concave side, 51-52 to the back body part 52-53 which is a substantially straight side sewn around the neck
-52R, consisting of the upper edge formed by 52R-51R, which is a loose, substantially concave side sewn to the neck around the right body part. 51R-5 sewn to a part of the right placket
Each side and each edge of the 0R edge is folded back at 58-58R, and is the original collar of the shirt with a predetermined amount of seam allowance. The folded-back formed 58-58R indicates that it is stitched as a collar end line.

FIG. 35 further explains the left placket LM3, and shows a state before machining as a washing test part. In the cut shape, the cloth surface is shown from the front side, and the left placket LS3 having the same shape as the left placket LM3 is adhered to the whole surface on the back surface, and a placket portion of a prototype of the shirt to which a predetermined amount of sewing margin is added. It is. The length of the placket indicated by H7 is the substantially concave side 68-69 indicated by the left placket portion LM3, the side edge constituted by the straight side 69-70, the straight side 72-73, and the substantially concave side 73. −
The length of each of the side edges constituted by 66 is a straight line perpendicular to the lower edge of 70-72, and the left body portion L shown later
3. Side edges 6 composed of gentle, substantially convex sides and straight lines
It is a part to be sewn to 0-61-62. Furthermore, it is bisected by the intermediate points 69 and 73, and is constituted by divided placket lengths indicated by H8 and H9. Note that the description of the left placket LM3 will be described with reference to the left-right symmetrical right placket RM3.
3 is also valid.

FIG. 36 shows a state in which the left placket LS3 is adhered to the entire surface of the left placket LM3 to form a left placket LC3 for a washing test part. The side edge composed of the substantially concave side 68-69 and the straight side 69-70 is folded at 67-71 to form a straight side 72-7.
3 and aligned with the side edge composed of substantially concave sides 73-66, 67-71-72, (70) -66,
(68) is sewn to form a placket part having the same form as the product in an independently separated state. In addition, this washing test part LC3
The above description is also valid for the right placket RC3 of the washing test component having the bilaterally symmetric shape. Similarly, in step 3, a predetermined washing test is performed in the same environment for the left body part L3, the right body part R3, and the back body part B3 of the collar CA3 and the cloth piece. Obtaining the reduction result is the same as in the previous embodiment.

FIG. 37 shows the results of the washing test. The washing test method is the same as in the first embodiment.

FIG. 38 shows the cut shape of the cloth piece of the collar portion CA3A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference in step 5 based on the shrinkage result of the washing test part. It is explanatory drawing shown from the front side of the ground. In the third embodiment, the CA3A shrinkage amount correction is also performed in the vertical direction corresponding to sewing on the placket and in the horizontal direction corresponding to sewing around the neck,
Both are 3%.

The collar portion CA3A has a left-right symmetrical shape with 53-54A as an imaginary axis.
Upper and lower symmetrical shapes with A-58RA as the axis. Therefore,
For convenience of understanding, description will be made on the left collar portion. Collar CA3A
50A-51A which is sewn to a part of the left placket part which is a straight side shown later, and which is sewn to the neck of the left body part 5
1A-52A, 52A-53 to be sewn to the neck of the left body (left half) of the back body part, with a modification of 3% in the lateral direction to form a silhouette of the left collar 50 shown later.
3% in the vertical direction of A-58A-57A and 53-54A
The amount of shrinkage was corrected. Further, the description of the left collar portion is also valid for the right collar portion having a symmetrical shape.

FIG. 39 shows the left body part L3A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of the shrinkage difference in the step 4, based on the shrinkage result of the washing test part, and the after-shrinkage amount correction. FIG. 4 is a developed view showing a cut shape of a cloth piece of the left placket LM3A from the front side of the cloth surface. As in the first and second embodiments, the modification of the reduction ratio of the L3A in the third embodiment is also set to 6%, and the setting in the LM3A is set to 3%.
The balance shown in the figure is also substantially equivalent.

In the correction of the shrinkage ratio, L3A is changed to H7.
H8B with the upper part of the front body and placket sewing length indicated by B as the origin
3 before the split body and placket sewing length 60A-61A
%, Plus the front body and placket sewing length 61 as indicated by H9B
A-62A adds an additional 3%, for a total of 6%, and constitutes the front body / placket sewing length indicated by H7B. The origin of the upper part of the placket sewing length is a part of the neck around the left body.
, And therefore, the position 60-
For 59A, a 6% reduction in shrinkage is added. Similarly, the side edges 63A-64A, which are sewn to the rear body shown later and become the left side line portion, are also subjected to the reduction ratio correction by the same ratio, and the left sleeve LS of the normal form similarly shown later In the concave edges 64A-65A corresponding to the suturing, the shrinkage amount is corrected by the same ratio to obtain L3A. Further, the left placket part LM3A was added by 3% as the correction of the shrinkage ratio, but was added by 1.5% with the divided placket length indicated by H8A and 1.5% by the divided placket length indicated by H9A.
In addition, a total of 3% constitutes a placket length indicated by H7A. At the same time, the right body parts R3A and R
Modify M3A as well.

FIG. 40 is a development view showing the back body part B3A after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of the shrinkage difference based on the shrinkage result of the washing test, and the left body part L2A Similarly to the above, the correction of the shrinkage amount was set to 6%, and the balance shown in the drawing was almost equivalent to L3A. Further, a side edge 76A- which is sewn to the left body part L3A and becomes a left side line part.
In the concave edge 77A-78A corresponding to 77A and the left sleeve part LS of the normal form shown later, the upper end edge 78A serving as the left shoulder is used as the origin and the reduction ratio is corrected by 6%.
In addition, the side edge 7 which is sewn to the right body R3A and becomes a right side line portion
6RA-77RA and a concave edge 77RA-78RA corresponding to the right sleeve RS of a normal form shown later, which is sewn, are added with 6% as a contraction amount correction to the origin with an upper end edge 78RA serving as a right shoulder line portion. Concave upper edge 79A-74A-7, which is a part of the neck, corresponding to sewing on the collar part CA3A
6RA is added to 9RA.

FIG. 41 shows the collar part CA3A and the left placket part LM after the correction of the shrinkage amount formed by adding a predetermined amount of shrinkage difference in step 5 based on the shrinkage result of the washing test.
It is explanatory drawing which shows the state which stitched 3A and the right placket part RM3A. The collar shows the front of the product, and the placket shows the back. For convenience of understanding, a left collar portion and a left placket portion will be described. The collar portion is formed in the same shape as the collar portion of FIG. 34 which is the second embodiment, and the left placket portion is folded back at 67-71A to match. 68, (66)
The completed collar was folded back and matched (56
A) and (51A) are inserted and further matched to each other, and sewn up to 67, and 68, (56A),
(51A), (66) -67-71A are provided with holding stitches and end stitches, so that the left collar portion and the left placket become continuous parts. Further, (57A) and (50A) -67 are combined with 58A- (57A) and (50A) which form the silhouette of the left collar described in the above-mentioned collar portion CA3A to form the silhouette of the left collar. . Further, the description of the left collar portion and the left placket LM3A is also valid for the right collar portion and the right placket RM3A having a symmetrical shape,
As shown in the drawing, the collar and the placket are formed as continuous parts.

FIG. 42 shows the left body part L3A in step 5.
And the right body part R3A and the back body part B3A are sewn at the left shoulder line part and the right shoulder line part, and further sewn at the left side line part and the right side line part, and the front body and the back body are sewn. The normal left and right sleeves LS and RS are sewn together, and a continuous part formed as a continuous part from the left placket part LM3A in FIG. 47 to the collar part CA3A and the right placket part RM3A is sewn and sewn. It is a front view of the shirt in the state where it was done. This shows that a sewing wrinkle indicated by NS was caused by distortion under the influence of a 3% longer volume difference around the neck between the front body part and the back body part. In the back body part B3A, in the vertical direction, since the correction value of the amount of shrinkage is the same of 6%, no distortion such as distortion or crazing is generated, and it is indicated that distortion is generated only in the neck portion in the horizontal direction. .

The shapes of the front body and the placket before the buttons are sewn are almost the same as those of the first embodiment. The front body part and the back body part are sewn into a shape obtained by suturing the front body part and the back body part. In a state where the sewing length is 3% different in a state where the sewing is continuously performed with the placket portion, the front end line indicated by 67-71A of the left placket LM3A has a side edge of L3A that is 3% longer. A gentle concave curve is drawn due to the influence of the volume difference, and 62A, (72A), (7
From 0A) to the bottom of the left side line, LM3A draws a gentle convex curve due to the effect of a 3% shorter volume difference, and shows the left body due to L3A and LM3A where distortion such as distortion or cracking has occurred. At the same time, the right and left symmetrical shapes R3A and RM3A
Similarly, the right body part is also distorted such as distortion and cracking. However, in the RM3A, the part is hidden by the left body part, and is hardly visible except for a part of the upper part in the figure.

FIG. 43 is a front view showing a state in which the shirt shown in FIG. 64 in which the distortion such as the distortion and the cracking has occurred is subjected to a washing process including press shaping, and the collar is turned back to complete the process. The 3% shorter difference in length of the placket is stretched here, and the 3% longer difference in length around the neck of the front body and the back body is stretched and shaped to absorb the distortion including sewing wrinkles, and the configuration shown in the figure is used. .

FIG. 44 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG.

In the third embodiment, as described above, similar to the first and second embodiments of the present invention, in a shirt having a collar, whether it is a cloth or a knit, Even so, since the placket consisting of one piece of fabric and two pieces of fabric, or the distortion generated after washing the collar portion, such as distortion and crazing, can be processed in the manufacturing process, even if the buyer purchases it after washing it, Can be maintained, and refining of the iron due to shape collapse is unnecessary or slight, and durability and quality can be improved.

Next, a method for manufacturing a shirt according to the fourth embodiment of the present invention will be described. Note that the form is described by using the cloth pieces in the form of step 1 in the processing described in relation to the description of FIG. 1, and the same applies to the reference numerals.

FIG. 45 is an explanatory diagram showing a manufacturing process for a front-opening shirt according to the fourth embodiment.

In the fourth embodiment, as shown in FIG. 1. At least independently cutting the front body part and the placket part of the front opening shirt; 2. Complete the placket part; 3. Adhering a placket shaping core (ground) to the placket site; 4. At least the seam allowance of the placket portion is folded back and shaped and finished. A front body part and a placket part of the front-opening shirt are sewn at a time, and a rear body part is sewn to complete the shirt by sewing.

FIG. 46 shows a characteristic plait finish shaping core PS1 according to the fourth embodiment, which is completed by processing from the cloth piece LM1 at the left placket, and corresponds to only the fourth embodiment. It is an illustration of a shaping core (ground) to be processed. Further, FIG. 47 is a perspective view showing a punching metal fitting PS1P for manufacturing the processed shaping core (ground), which is enlarged and divided at an upper portion for convenience of understanding.

Next, the punching metal fitting PS1P will be described.
Each edge of P1-8-9-10-P 2 in FIG. 47 is formed by a sharp blade type, a portion represented by shown on hatching is the partial cross-section. In addition, the cross section P indicates a punch that forms a vertically-elongated extraction hole, and the punch configured on the drawing is a vertically long punch and three substantially T-shaped punches formed near 8-9-10. Consists of a punching hole
Both are indicated by P. Each punch is formed by a sharp blade like each edge. F indicates a steel material fixed by welding for arranging each edge and each punch at a predetermined interval. In the completed punching metal fitting PS1P, the blade mold surface is placed on a plurality of interlining fabrics stacked on a hard polyurethane underlay, and a punching process is performed by a pressure press. It becomes possible to obtain the shaped core PS1.

Next, referring to FIG. 46, the placket finish shaping core PS1 is the cloth piece LM1 of the left placket portion.
The punching tool PS1P has a shape as viewed from the back side.
The upper edge 8-9-1
0 and side edges 10-11-12 and lower edges 12-13
From the respective edges of the LM1 formed by adding the seam allowance of the -14 side edge 14-15-8, a vertically long or substantially T-shaped extraction hole is formed at a finished position portion which becomes each edge after the sewing is completed. It is formed. Further, in the processing of the extraction holes, the shape and the predetermined sewing allowance of the cloth piece LM1 are accurately performed by the above-described punching metal fitting PS1P in the same manner as shown in the drawing, and the interval and arrangement of the extraction holes are set to the thickness of the blade mold. It is configured with the minimum spacing and arrangement that the core fabric tissue can withstand the applied pressure, and is 9-13 in shape.
Is a left-right symmetrical shape with reference to. Further, 11-1
5 is a symmetrical shape with respect to the reference axis.

FIG. 48 is an enlarged view of the upper part of the plaited finish shaping lead PS1 of FIG. 46 for further explanation.
48 is a partially enlarged view of the same configuration as the illustrated configuration of the punch-out fitting PS1P in FIG. 47 for convenience of understanding. The interval indicated by H10 indicates the interval that constitutes the above-described extraction hole, and in this embodiment, the interval is in the range of 0.8 cm to 1 cm, which is appropriate for the interval between all the extraction holes.
Further, the extraction length of the vertical shape indicated by H11 is configured on the basis of 3 cm, and as described above, the configuration of both is a configuration that does not hinder the formation of the extraction hole as a shaping core. Further, the width of the extraction indicated by W10 and W10a is 0.2 cm, and the same applies to the width of all the extraction holes.
The two seam allowances of the upper edge and the side edge indicated by W11 are 1 cm in the cloth piece LM1, but the width of the extraction hole is 0.2 cm, and the center of the width becomes the finished edge after the sewing is completed. Therefore, the aforementioned seam allowance 1cm-0.1c
m = 0.9 cm is the extraction position from the edge position of the cloth piece LM1. Further, at the extraction position, each edge has basically the same configuration. However, with respect to a seam allowance processing acting on sewing described later, a side end having a contact at an upper edge and a lower edge formed at 90 degrees. Edge 8-1
Substantially T formed at the upper edge and the lower edge of 0,12-14
The character-shaped extraction hole has a characteristic edge position configuration.

The angle of the substantially T-shaped extraction hole, which is located at eight portions in the drawing, is de-e-
At f and ghi, it is formed with a gentle obtuse angle of about 91.5 degrees, and the substantially T-shaped extraction hole angle located at the 9 part is a gentle acute angle of about 88.5 degrees at abc. It is configured. Although only the upper part is illustrated in the figure, the shape is a symmetrical shape as described above. For this reason, the plaited finished shaping core PS1 can be bonded to both the left placket LM1 and the right plait RM1.

FIG. 49 shows the placket finished shaping lead PS1.
Is adhered to the left placket piece LM1, and the upper edge is enlarged to show that the seam allowance is folded back by 1 cm with the left and right edges around the center of the vertically elongated hole. The hatched extraction hole portion indicates that the back side of the non-bonded fabric piece LM1 is visible, and the bonding core is subjected to glue processing to enable bonding on the back surface as described above. In the state where the adhesive has been adhered to the fabric piece, it will be in a form with firm tension, but on the contrary, the hatched hole indicated by diagonal lines can be folded easily because there is no tension, and the seam allowance part is accurately and quickly Can be folded back.

[0128] Although the portion to be folded back after the bonding is completed is a seam allowance, as described in the above-mentioned conventional technique, the folding back in the sewn state corresponds to the expression of the seam allowance. For the purpose of avoiding sewing and folding back, the following expression is a folding margin.

FIG. 50 shows that, in addition to the state shown in FIG. 49, the upper edge is turned back, and the angle of the substantially T-shaped extraction hole described with reference to FIG.
0 indicates that it is folded back as a top edge with a slight angle. In addition, the effect of the
Alternatively, it can be seen that it appears at the ten corners, and the folding margin of the left and right side edges is folded back, and after sewing is completed, it is slightly inwardly depressed from the portion to be the finished edge. Also, the lower end edge has the same configuration.

FIG. 51 shows, in addition to the state shown in FIG.
The enlarged view of the upper portion shows that the left placket LM1 is folded in two and shaping is completed, and shows the effect of the placket finish shaping core PS1. In addition, the aforementioned 8 or 10
Again, the corners are slightly recessed inward, and a good left placket shape can be seen. In this shaped shape, the above-mentioned sewing allowance (folding allowance) acting on the sewing can be performed, so that when sewn to the front body, the folded end corner portion does not stick out from the finished edge. You can guess.

FIG. 52 is a front view showing a shirt according to a fourth embodiment completed by sewing the placket manufactured as described above to the front body, which is a feature of the fourth embodiment. This explains that the front body part and the placket part were sewn in one process. While the left placket LM1 is folded in two in FIG. 51 and the shaping is completed, the front end of the left front body is sandwiched between 14, LM-12 and LM10.
Sewing and suturing are completed in succession with 9-13-14, (12), and sewing and suturing are continuously completed in the same manner in the right placket RM1 which is not overlapped with the left placket LM1. I have. Further, it is shown that the folded end corners of 14, (12) and 8, (10) do not stick out from the finished edge in the state where sewing and stitching are continuously performed in one process. Also, the middle upper edge and the lower edge are usually subjected to middle sewing, the one side edge of the side edge of the placket is further sewn, and the remaining seam margin of the remaining side edge is folded back. Since it is not sewn or the like, it is completed in a good finished form without a plurality of seams.

In the fourth embodiment, FIG.
In the processing described in connection with the description of the above, the explanation has been made using the fabric pieces in the form of step 1; however, the configuration of the fabric in step 4 which is cut again according to the shrinkage ratio can be similarly applied. The dimensional difference due to the shrinkage of PS1 corresponds to the length of the punching tool PS1P adjusted at the lower edge portion (a plurality of lengths are set).

Next, a method for manufacturing a shirt according to the fifth embodiment of the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, the processing will be described with reference to the cloth pieces in the form of step 1 of the shirt according to the second embodiment in the processing described with reference to FIG. 1, and the same applies to the reference numerals.

FIG. 53 shows that the fabric piece CA2 at the collar portion of the shirt obtained in the above step 1 is processed to produce a characteristic collar finished shaping core in the fifth embodiment. As in the case of the fourth embodiment, a punching metal fitting in which punches forming punching holes are arranged will be described.

Continuing with the description, the vertically elongated holes are arranged as shown in the figure on 28-28R, which is folded back to form a collar end line. Further, the intervals and widths of the extraction holes are the same as in the fourth embodiment. The position shown by the broken line in the figure is a separating position when a half-face core described later is manufactured. To be continued, a gently curved extraction hole indicated by CL is an extraction hole that forms a left neckline to improve the finished form after completion of sewing described later, and CLR is a right neckline. is there. Also,
Although this description describes the process of producing a finished core with a collar, the punches may be arranged as described above, and a punched metal fitting similar to that shown in the drawing may be produced. It has the same configuration as the overall adhesive core of the shirt according to the form, but in the collar finished shaping core, a form that allows easy shaping while giving firm tension to the entire surface of the collar by the action of the extraction hole. Become.

FIG. 54 shows that the punch-out fitting is manufactured at the cut-off position indicated by the broken line in FIG. 53, the punching process is performed by a pressure press, and the finished collar PA2 is completed. In addition, the relationship between the width of the cutting position parallel to the arrangement of the vertically-shaped extraction holes is the same as the placket finish shaping core PS1 described in the fourth embodiment described above, with a folding allowance of 0.9 cm. The form is completed as a half-faced core, and the shaping can be easily performed while keeping the half-face of the collar firmly tight by the action of the extraction hole.

The full-length core and the half-side core of the collar-finished shaping core have elongation, thickness,
It is more effective to use them properly depending on conditions such as hardness.

FIG. 55 shows a characteristic placket finish shaping core PS2 according to the fifth embodiment, which is completed by performing processing from the cloth piece LM2 at the left placket portion, similar to the fourth embodiment. This shows that the punched finished shaping core PS2 was completed by punching with a pressure press using a punching tool in which punches constituting a punching hole were arranged, and the shaping core corresponding to only the fifth embodiment was completed. It is an illustration.

The placket finish shaping core PS2 is formed by processing the cloth piece LM2 in the left placket portion into a shape as viewed from the back side, and characteristic portions are described later in CLM1 and CLM2. , CLM3, a hole is formed in a substantially arrow shape to form a broken neck portion. Further, this is a part different from the description described with respect to the plaited finished shaping core according to the fourth embodiment, and is a part that is no longer a symmetrical shape. The intervals, lengths, and widths of the other configurations of the vertically long or substantially T-shaped extraction holes are the same as those of the placket finished shaping core according to the fourth embodiment.

FIG. 56 is a view showing a state in which the half-face core of the collar finish shaping core PA2 described with reference to FIG. 54 is adhered to the cloth piece CA2 at the collar portion, and the center of the vertically elongated hole is used as an axis.
This shows that the collar end line was formed by folding at 28R. In addition, the edge of the collar finish shaping core parallel to the collar edge line has a folding allowance of 1 cm with the center of the extraction hole as an axis as described above, but in a bonded state, it has a firm tension, This shows that folding in two can be easily performed. Further, as an effect of the half-face core, a firm tension is obtained on the bonding side, and the non-bonding side flexibly follows the bonding side and adapts, so that a soft collar can be configured.

FIG. 57 is a front view of the shirt according to the fifth embodiment completed by sewing the collar and placket produced as described above to the body, before the collar is folded and shaped. It is. The functions and effects of the configuration are the same as those in the case of sewing and suturing the placket according to the fourth embodiment.

FIG. 58 explains the function of the broken line of the collar described in connection with FIG. 53 or FIG. 55, which is a feature of this embodiment, by enlarging the collar portion of FIG. In addition, seam lines and the like are omitted for convenience of understanding. The placket part is indicated by a bold line (CLM1). Referring to FIG. 55, the placket is one point of the reference shaft portion where the placket is folded in two.
The start position of the neckline, which will be described later, is configured, and (CLM
2) and (CLM3) are also superimposed to form a continuous broken line to the collar, but this is a part where the fold of the placket and the sewing allowance of the collar are gathered in multiple layers, so shaping by the extraction hole The effect works very effectively. Similarly, the same applies to the right placket which cannot be seen overlapping with the left placket in the drawing. Continuing to explain, CL indicated by a bold line is a position where a left neckline is formed as a gently curved extraction hole, and the polygonal line is a collar continuous with (CLM2) and (CLM3) of the placket extraction hole. It shows that it was formed as a polygonal line, and CLR also shows that a right neckline was similarly formed.

FIG. 59 shows the fifth embodiment manufactured as described above.
FIG. 10 is a front view showing that the collar of the shirt according to the embodiment of the present invention is completed by folding back along a continuous neckline. still,
The neckline of the shaping core with the extraction hole shows that the most difficult placket in normal finishing shaping can be easily shaped just by turning it back, so that the buyer can easily set the initial shape even after washing. It can be finished.

FIG. 60 is a view for further explaining the effect of shaping the broken line of the neck formed by the shaping core provided with the extraction hole in FIG. 59 by enlarging the neck portion. In addition, seam lines and the like are omitted for convenience of understanding. Shown by thick line (CLM1)
Constitutes the beginning of the neckline, then (CLM
2) The effect formed as a continuous line from the (CLM3) to the CL is that the most difficult placket in the above-mentioned normal finish shaping can be easily folded back, so that the action follows the entire collar. As a result, a stable collar is formed as shown.

As described above, in the first to fifth embodiments, there is provided a method of manufacturing a front opening specification shirt,
a. Cutting at least the front body part and the placket part of the front-opening shirt independently (step 1 in FIG. 1); b. Completing the placket site (step 2 in FIG. 1); c. At least the front body part and the completed placket part are subjected to a washing test to determine shrinkage (step 3 in FIG. 1), d. The front body part and the placket part of the front-opening shirt are cut again based on the determined shrinkage ratio (step 4 in FIG. 1), and e.
Sew the front body part and the placket part of the re-cut front opening shirt, and sew the back body part to sew the shirt (step 5 in FIG. 1); f. A press shaping and / or washing process was performed on the sewn shirt to complete it (Step 6 in FIG. 1).

Further, the shirt is a shirt having a collar, and in step a (step 1 in FIG. 1), the collar portion is cut independently, and in step b (step 2 in FIG. 1), the placket portion is cut. The length of the collar width is extended, and the process c (FIG. 1)
In step 3), the washing test was also performed on the collar portion.

Further, the rear body portion was cut independently in the step a (step 1 in FIG. 1), and a washing test was also performed on the rear body in the step c (step 3 in FIG. 1).

In the step a (step 1 in FIG. 1), the front part is cut into a bilaterally symmetrical shape with the front edge of the front body part to be sewn as a virtual reference axis.

A method of manufacturing a shirt, comprising sewing a front body part and a placket part of a front opening shirt at a time and suturing a rear body part to complete the shirt.
g. At least a front body part and a placket part of the front opening shirt are cut independently (step 1 in FIG. 45), and h. Completing the placket part (Step 2 in FIG. 45), i. Adhering a placket shaping lead having a hole at the placket to the placket (step 3 in FIG. 45); j. After at least the seam allowance of the placket is folded back at the extraction hole and shaped and finished, each part is sewn (Step 4 in FIG. 45) to complete the shirt (Step 5 in FIG. 45). Configured.

Further, the shirt is a shirt having a collar, and in step g (step 1 in FIG. 45), the collar portion is also cut independently, and in step h (step 2 in FIG. 45).
Completed extended Erihaba length min placket site in the step i, respectively the placket site and the collar integer Katachishin having placket shaping core and extraction holes with the extraction hole in (Step 3 in FIG. 45) It was adhered to the collar part, and the seam margin and the collar end line of the placket part extended in the step j were folded back at the part of the extraction hole to be shaped.

In the first to fifth embodiments, the form of the shirt has been described as a full-open shirt of the front-opening type, but a half-open shirt whose front-opening ends near the chest may be used.

Further, a front-opening shirt is taken as an example,
The same applies to rear-opening shirts.

[0153]

According to the first aspect of the present invention, since a placket consisting of one piece of fabric and two pieces of fabric, or a strain such as a strain or a tear generated after washing of a collar portion can be treated in the manufacturing process, it is purchased. It is possible to maintain the initial (or expected) form even after washing by the person after purchase, and it is not necessary to refinish the iron due to shape loss, or it is light and the durability and quality can be improved.

According to the second aspect, the same operation and effect can be obtained even when a shirt having a collar is manufactured.

According to the third aspect, it is possible to manufacture a shirt which does not lose its shape.

According to the fourth aspect, as in the third aspect, it is possible to manufacture a shirt which does not lose its shape.

According to the fifth aspect, since the placket can be sewn in a single step, a plurality of stitches do not exist. In addition, seam puckering can be prevented, so that distortion such as distortion or cracking does not occur, and the quality is stabilized. Also before the
On the stand, a placket with a drilled hole is glued
Therefore, when bonding is complete,
Although it will be in the form with tension, the extraction hole part is
Sewing can be easily turned back because there is no
Can be folded back .

According to the sixth aspect, the same operation and effect can be obtained even when a shirt having a collar is manufactured. Further, the placket shaping core and the collar shaping core in which the extraction holes are formed provide a stable shaping effect.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram showing steps of a method for manufacturing a shirt according to a first embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a plan view showing a cut shape of each piece of cloth of a front body part and a placket part of the shirt obtained in step 1 of FIG.

FIG. 3 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a back body of the shirt obtained in step 1 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a placket lead of the shirt obtained in step 1 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 5 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a cloth piece on which a front body part and a placket part of the shirt obtained in step 1 of FIG. 1 are formed.

FIG. 6 is a plan view showing the front part of the shirt obtained in step 2 of FIG. 1 before processing the laundry test part.

FIG. 7 is a plan view showing the front part of the shirt obtained in step 2 of FIG. 1 after processing the washing test parts.

FIG. 8 is a data diagram showing a washing test result in step 3 of FIG.

9 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a front body portion and a placket portion which are cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage based on a result of shrinkage of a washing test part in step 4 of FIG.

FIG. 10 is a plan view showing a cut shape of the rear body which is cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage based on a result of shrinkage of the washing test part in step 4 of FIG.

FIG. 11 is a plan view showing a shape obtained by sewing a front body part and a placket part which have been cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage in step 5 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 12 is a front view showing the appearance of a sewn product (shirt) obtained by sewing and sewing each piece of fabric cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage in step 5 of FIG. 1;

13 is a front view showing a shirt completed by performing a washing process including a shaping press in step 6 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 14 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG. 13;

FIG. 15 is a plan view illustrating a cut shape of a collar portion of a shirt obtained in Step 1 of a shirt manufacturing method according to a second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 16 is a plan view showing a cut shape of each piece of fabric of a front body part and a placket part obtained in Step 1 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 17 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a back body of the shirt obtained in Step 1 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 18 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a collar core and a placket core of the shirt obtained in Step 1 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 19 is a plan view illustrating a state after processing of a washing test part of a collar portion of a shirt obtained in Step 2 of a shirt manufacturing method according to a second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 20 is a plan view of a shirt placket obtained at step 2 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention before processing of a washing test part.

FIG. 21 is a plan view of a shirt placket obtained at step 2 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention after processing of a washing test part.

FIG. 22 is a data diagram showing a washing test result in Step 3 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 23 shows a cut shape of a collar portion cut again by adding a shrinkage difference based on a shrinkage result of a washing test part in Step 4 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention. FIG.

FIG. 24 is a front body part and a placket part re-cut with a difference in shrinkage based on the shrinkage result of a washing test part in step 4 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention. It is a top view which shows the cut shape of.

FIG. 25 is a cross-sectional view of a back body that has been re-cut by adding a difference in shrinkage based on a result of shrinkage of a washing test part in step 4 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the second embodiment of the present invention. FIG.

FIG. 26 sewes and sewes the collar part, the front body part, and the back body part which have been re-cut in step 5 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention by adding a difference in shrinkage. It is a top view which shows a shape.

FIG. 27 is an external view of a sewn product (shirt) obtained by sewing and sewing each piece of fabric that has been cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage in step 5 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the second embodiment of the present invention. FIG.

FIG. 28 is a front view of a shirt completed by performing a washing process including a shaping press in step 6 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 29 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG. 28.

FIG. 30 is a plan view illustrating a cut shape of a collar portion of a shirt obtained in Step 1 of a shirt manufacturing method according to a third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 31 is a plan view showing a cut shape of each piece of cloth of a front body part and a placket part obtained in step 1 of a shirt manufacturing method according to a third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 32 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a back body of the shirt obtained in Step 1 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 33 is a plan view showing a cut shape of a collar core and a placket core of a shirt obtained in Step 1 of a shirt manufacturing method according to a third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 34 is a plan view showing a state after a washing test part of a collar portion of a shirt obtained in step 2 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 35 is a plan view of a shirt placket obtained at step 2 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention before processing of a washing test part.

FIG. 36 is a plan view of a shirt placket obtained at step 2 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention after processing of a washing test part.

FIG. 37 is a data diagram showing a washing test result in step 3 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 38 is a cross-sectional view of a collar portion cut again by adding a difference in shrinkage based on a result of shrinkage of a washing test part in step 4 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the third embodiment of the present invention. FIG.

FIG. 39 is a front body part and a placket part which are cut again by adding a shrinkage difference based on a shrinkage result of a washing test part in step 4 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention. It is a top view which shows the cut shape of.

FIG. 40 is a cutaway shape of a rear body portion that has been cut again by adding a shrinkage difference based on a shrinkage result of a washing test part in step 4 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention. FIG.

FIG. 41 is a plan view showing a shape in which a collar and a placket sewn together in step 5 of the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the third embodiment of the present invention by adding a difference in shrinkage are re-sewn.

FIG. 42 is a front view showing the appearance of a sewn product obtained by sewing and sewing each piece of cloth re-cut in step 5 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention by adding a difference in shrinkage. FIG.

FIG. 43 is a front view showing a shirt completed by performing a washing process including a shaping press in step 6 of the shirt manufacturing method according to the third embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 44 is a rear view of the shirt shown in FIG. 44.

FIG. 45 is an explanatory view showing steps of a method for manufacturing a shirt according to the fourth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 46 is a plan view showing a completed shape of a placket finish shaping core in the shirt manufacturing method according to the fourth embodiment.

FIG. 47 is a partially enlarged perspective view of a punching metal fitting for manufacturing the placket finished shaping core shown in FIG. 46.

FIG. 48 is a plan view for partially explaining FIG. 46 for further explanation.

FIG. 49 is a partially enlarged view showing that a placket finished shaping core is adhered to a left placket piece, and that a fold margin on the left and right side edges can be easily folded back.

FIG. 50 is a partially enlarged view showing that the folding margin at the upper edge of FIG. 49 is further folded back.

FIG. 51 is a partially enlarged view showing that the shape of FIG. 50 is further folded in half.

FIG. 52 is a front view showing a shirt completed by sewing a placket shaped by a placket finish shaping core in a method for manufacturing a shirt according to a fourth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 53 is a plan view showing a process of manufacturing a collar-finished shaping core and a shape of the entire core in the shirt manufacturing method according to the fifth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 54 is a plan view showing the shape of a completed half-faced core of a collar-finished shaping core in the shirt manufacturing method according to the fifth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 55 is a plan view showing a completed shape of a plaited finished shaping core in the shirt manufacturing method according to the fifth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 56 is a perspective view showing that a half-faced core of a collar finish shaping core in a method for manufacturing a shirt according to a fifth embodiment of the present invention is adhered to a cloth piece of a collar and can be easily folded back.

FIG. 57 is a front view showing a shirt completed by sewing a placket shaped by a placket finish shaping core in a method for manufacturing a shirt according to a fifth embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 58 is a partially enlarged view of FIG. 57, illustrating a broken line on which a placket finish shaping core and a collar finish shaping core act.

FIG. 59 is a front view of the completed shirt showing that the neckline of the neck formed by the shaping core in the method for manufacturing a shirt according to the fifth embodiment of the present invention is folded back so that the neck portion is easily shaped.

FIG. 60 is a plan view for further explaining the collar portion of FIG. 59 in a partially enlarged manner.

FIG. 61 is an explanatory diagram of a front body showing a form of a shirt according to a conventional technique.

FIG. 62 is an explanatory view of processing the front body shown in FIG. 4;

63 is an explanatory view of the front body shown in FIG. 46 after processing.

FIG. 64 is an explanatory diagram showing that the front body shown in FIG. 46 has been deformed by washing.

FIG. 65 is a plan view showing a cut shape of an additional placket in another example of a shirt according to the related art.

FIG. 66 is an explanatory view of processing the front body shown in FIG. 51.

67 is an explanatory diagram of the front body shown in FIG. 51 after processing.

FIG. 68 is an explanatory diagram showing that the front body shown in FIG. 51 has been deformed by washing.

FIG. 69 is an explanatory view showing the structure of the attachment.

FIG. 70 is an explanatory diagram showing a shape immediately after sewing with an attachment.

FIG. 71 is an explanatory view showing a cross section of a sewing shape by an attachment.

[Explanation of symbols]

L1 Left body part LM1 Left placket part R1 Right body part RM1 Right placket part B1 Back body part LS1 Left placket RS1 Right placket H1 Plain length H2 Split placket length H3 Split placket length LC1 Test part Left plait RC1 Test part Right placket L1A Left body part after modification of shrinkage fraction H1B Front body / plait sewing length after modification of shrinkage fraction H2B Split front body and plait sewing length after modification of shrinkage fraction H3B After modification of shrinkage fraction Body before divide and plaiting sewing length R1A Right body part after modification of shrinkage ratio LM1A Left placket part after modification of shrinkage ratio H1A Length of plait after modification of shrinkage ratio H2A Split plait length after modification of contraction ratio H3A Length of split placket after modification of shrinkage ratio RM1A Right plaited portion after modification of shrinkage ratio B1A Rear body portion after modification of shrinkage ratio P Neck cloth LS Left sleeve Part RS Right sleeve part NS Sewing wrinkle DL1 Conventional left body DL2 Conventional left body DM2 Conventional placket CA2 Collar part L2 according to the second embodiment L2 Left body part LM2 according to the second embodiment Second example Left placket part R2 according to the second embodiment Right body RM2 Right plait part according to the second embodiment B2 Rear body part according to the second embodiment CS2 Collar according to the second embodiment Lead LS2 Left fly lead according to the second embodiment RS2 Right fly lead according to the second embodiment H4 Fly rise length according to the second embodiment H5 Split fly length according to the second embodiment H6 Split placket length according to the second embodiment LC2 Test part left placket part according to the second embodiment RC2 Test part right plait part CA2A according to the second embodiment CA2A Second implementation Collar part L2A after modification according to the embodiment L2A Left body part after modification according to the second embodiment H4B Front body and plait sewing after modification according to the second embodiment Length H5B Pre-divided body / plaited sewing length after modification of shrinkage amount according to the second embodiment H6B Pre-division body / plaited sewing length after modification of shrinkage amount according to second embodiment R2A Right body part after the reduction rate modification according to the second embodiment LM2A Left placket part after the reduction rate modification according to the second embodiment H4A After the reduction percentage modification according to the second embodiment The placket length H5A The divided placket length H6A after the reduction ratio modification according to the second embodiment H6A The divided plait length RM2A after the modification ratio modification according to the second embodiment Right placket site after the correction of the shrinkage amount B2A Second embodiment Back body part CA3 after modification of the shrinkage rate amount CA3 Collar part L3 according to the third embodiment L3 Left body part according to the third embodiment LM3 Left placket part according to the third embodiment R3 Third Right body part RM3 according to the embodiment RM3 Right placket part according to the third embodiment B3 Back body part according to the third embodiment CS3 Collar core LS3 according to the third embodiment LS3 Third embodiment RS3 Left placket RS3 Right placket H3 according to the third embodiment H7 Placket length H3 according to the third embodiment Split placket length H9 according to the third embodiment H9 According to the third embodiment The divided placket length LC3 The test part left placket part according to the third embodiment RC3 The test part right plait part according to the third embodiment CA3A The collar part after the reduction of the shrinkage amount according to the third embodiment. L3A Third Embodiment Left body part after correction of shrinkage amount according to H7B Front body / plaited sewing length after correction of shrinkage amount according to the third embodiment H8B Division after reduction of shrinkage amount according to third embodiment Front body and plaiting sewing length H9B Right body part after modification of shrinkage ratio according to the third embodiment, divided front body and plaiting sewing length R3A after modification of shrinkage ratio according to the third embodiment LM3A Left placket portion after modification of reduction ratio according to third embodiment H7A Placket length after modification of reduction ratio according to third embodiment H8A After modification of reduction ratio according to third embodiment The split placket length H9A The split placket length according to the third embodiment after the reduction ratio modification RM3A The right plait portion after the reduction ratio modification according to the third embodiment B3A In the third embodiment Rear body PS1 after the modification of the shrinkage ratio is modified. Fourth Embodiment The placket finish shaping lead PS1P The placket finish shaping core manufacturing stamping metal fitting according to the fourth embodiment P The placket finish shaping lead manufacturing stamping metal fitting punch according to the fourth embodiment H10 According to the fourth embodiment Removal interval of placket finished shaping core H11 Removal length of placket finished shaping core according to fourth embodiment W10 Removal width of placket finished shaping core according to fourth embodiment W10a Placket according to fourth embodiment Removal width of finished shaping core W11 Removal position of plaited finishing shaping core according to fourth embodiment PA2 Collar finished shaping core according to fifth embodiment CL Left of collar finished shaping core according to fifth embodiment Folded collar part CLR Folded collar part of the finished core of the finished collar according to the fifth embodiment PS2 Before the fifth embodiment Finished shaping core CLM1 Folded finished shaping core according to the fifth embodiment CLM2 Folded finished shaping core according to the fifth embodiment CLM3 Folded finished shaping according to the fifth embodiment Broken core neck AT attachment body ATB sewing machine attachment base

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ identification code FI A41H 43/00 A41H 43/00 A (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A41B 1/00-1 / 18 A41D 1/02-1/04 A41D 27/00-27/24 A41H 43/00

Claims (6)

(57) [Claims] 1. A method of manufacturing a front-opening shirt, comprising: a. Independently cutting at least a front body part and a placket part of the front opening shirt; b. Completing the placket site; c. At least the front body part and the completed placket part are subjected to a washing test to determine shrinkage, d. Re-cutting the front body part and the placket part of the front opening shirt based on the obtained shrinkage ratio, e. Sew a front body part and a placket part of the re-cut front opening shirt, and sew the back body part to sew the shirt; f. A step of subjecting the sewn shirt to press shaping and / or washing to complete the sewn shirt. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the shirt is a shirt having a collar. In the step (a), the collar portion is independently cut, and in the step (b), the placket portion is extended by the width of the collar. The method for producing a shirt according to claim 1, wherein a washing test is also performed on the part. 3. The method for producing a shirt according to claim 1, wherein, in the step (a), the back body part is cut independently, and in the step (c), a washing test is also performed on the back body. . 4. In the step (a), the placket is provided
The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the front edge of the front body part to be sewn is cut into a bilaterally symmetric shape using a virtual reference axis. 5. A method for manufacturing a shirt, comprising: sewing a front body part and a placket part of a front opening shirt at a time, and suturing a rear body part to complete the shirt; g. Independently cutting at least a front body part and a placket part of the front opening shirt; h. Completing the placket site; i. Adhering a placket shaping core having a withdrawal hole in the placket to the placket; j. Remove at least the seam allowance at the placket
A method of manufacturing a shirt, comprising the steps of: sewn each part after folding and shaping and finishing at a hole part ; 6. The shirt according to claim 6, wherein the shirt is a shirt having a collar, and in step g, the collar portion is also cut independently, and in step h, the placket is extended by the length of the collar width to complete the process. said collar integer Katachishin having placket shaping core and extraction holes with an extraction hole is bonded to each of the placket site and the collar portion, seam allowances portion and collar edge line placket sites extending in the step j in the
6. The method for manufacturing a shirt according to claim 5, wherein the shaping is performed by folding back at the site of the extraction hole .