JP2504931B2 - Processing method for pleated products - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for processing pleated products such as skirts, dresses, blouses and slacks which have been pleated.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As represented by skirts, a processing method for making a crease in a cloth is known. For example, skirts with creases are called flare skirts, gathered skirts, pleated skirts, etc., and skirts, dresses, blouses, slacks, etc. are processed by adding such folds. Is generally referred to as pleat processing, and the "crease" itself is called pleat in relation to the pleat processing.

When pleated, a moderate amount of shading appears on the clothing, and a visual effect provides an aesthetic impression. Further, since the pleating process adds flexibility to the garment, the cramped feeling can be wiped off and sufficient activity can be secured even when the garment has a small dimension.

Pleated products such as skirts, dresses, blouses, and slacks that have been pleated are usually molded through the following steps.

First, the cloth is cut (cut) into parts having a predetermined shape (cutting process).

The part is pressed (press working). By pressing, sharp pleat is formed by the following pleat processing.

The part is put on a pleating machine to make a desired crease (pleat) on the part (pleat processing).

Parts are put in a heat treatment apparatus and heat treatment is performed by heating with saturated steam (heat treatment processing). By this heat treatment, the pleats are fixed and the collapse of the dies is prevented, and the pleats having good holding properties are obtained.

Sew a part with pleats with a sewing machine,
Finish pleated products (sewing).

As described above, the palletized fabric is subjected to pleating and then sewn into a pleated product. Here, after the fabric is pleated, the pleated fabric may be cut into parts and then sewn. However, even in this case, sewing is still performed after the pleat processing.

The pocket attachment and the button attachment are performed in the sewing process.

[0012]

As described above, in the conventional processing method, since the pleats are processed and then sewn, the design of the pleats must be limited due to restrictions on sewing. I don't get.

The pleat processing is carried out by applying a desired crease (pre-cut).
The upper part and the lower part (pleats) of the uneven shape corresponding to the parts are sandwiched between the parts before sewing. For pleats that are widely used, standard pleat molds made of metal with durability taken into consideration are prepared, and pleat machining can be performed by attaching the standard pleat molds to pleat machines. Done.

However, it is difficult to perform a pleat on a pleat machine, for example, a complicated pleat such as a taper side pleat, an accordion pleat, and a pattern matching is made of a paper pleat. -It is done by hand using a tool. A pleat formed by a pleat machine is called a machine pleat, and a pleat formed by hand is called a hand pleat.

In both of the pleat machine and the manual work, the pleat type is used for pleat processing.
Pleating without a pleat type cannot be performed, and the pleat design is limited.

As described above, since the design of the pleat is limited by the restriction on sewing and the restriction by the pleat type, it is difficult to process a pleat product having a variety of designs.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for processing a pleat product which can easily process a pleat product having a variety of designs.

[0018]

In order to achieve this object, according to the present invention, after forming machine pleats or hand pleats on the semi-finished product after sewing, a soft sheet excellent in breathability and heat resistance, The semi-finished product is rolled, the rolled soft sheet is twisted, tied with a string, and put in a heat treatment device for heat treatment.

Since the semi-finished product is wound with a soft sheet, twisted, and tied with a string and heat-treated, complicated pleats can be formed into a semi-finished product according to the binding. Also, complicated pleats can be obtained by rolling the soft sheet and then twisting it.

[0020]

Embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the drawings.

With respect to the blouse 10 as shown in FIG. 1, a method for processing a pleat product according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described. For example, left and right sleeves 11L, 11R, left and right front body 12F
L, 12FR, one back body 12B part is cut from the fabric,
The parts are sewn with a sewing machine to form a semi-finished product 14 having a desired outer shape shown in FIG. Also, the pocket 15 may be attached at this point.

Then, the semi-finished product 14 is sent to a pleat machine to be pleated, so-called machine pleat is formed into a semi-finished product, and the semi-finished product is appropriately folded so as to be easily twisted, and then the semi-finished product is twisted. (Squeeze, twist) (Fig. 1
(B)-(D)). The semi-finished product 14 may be twisted immediately without folding. It may also be twisted to create a hump.
If there is a button 16, it is good to attach it after the machine pleat.

The semi-finished product 14 is attached to a holder (not shown) while being twisted, and together with the holder, the heat treatment apparatus 20.
(Fig. 2 (A)). For example, the holder has a plate shape in which a series of clips are arranged facing each other on the left and right, and the left and right ends of the semi-finished product 14 are stopped by the clips, and the semi-finished product is hung inside the heat treatment apparatus 20. The structure of the holder is not limited to this, and it suffices to hold the semi-finished product so that it is immersed in the saturated steam inside the heat treatment apparatus 20.

The heat treatment apparatus 20 is known, and the inside of the heat treatment apparatus is filled with saturated steam, and the semi-finished product 14 is sufficiently immersed in the saturated steam up to the inside thereof. Semi-finished machine pleat 14
Since it is already molded into the machine, the machine pleats are fixed, and since the semi-finished product is folded and twisted, when it is immersed in saturated steam, folds (a kind of pleats depending on the folding and twisting methods) ) Is molded into a semi-finished product and fixed.

When the semi-finished product 14 is taken out from the heat treatment apparatus 20 and unfolded, a blouse (pleated product) 10 with pleats is obtained, as can be seen from FIG. 2 (B).

In the case where another one piece 30 is folded at the center for pleating, as shown in FIG. 3A, the left and right sleeves 31L and 31R of the sewn semi-finished product 34 are shown.
Fold it up along the alternate long and short dash line. Then, for example, the left half overlaps with the right half as shown by (Fig. 3 (B),
(C)), put the machine pleat through the pleat machine (Fig. 4 (A)), and wind (Fig. 4 (B)) and twist (Fig. 4).
(C)).

Then, when the semi-finished product 34 is hung on the holder and put into the heat treatment apparatus and heat-treated, as shown in FIG. 4 (D),
A blouse (pleats product) 30 in which the pleats are attached substantially symmetrically is obtained.

In the conventional pleated product, a plurality of patts before sewing are pleated and sewn with pleats to obtain a pleated product. On the other hand, according to the present invention, since the semi-finished product is sewn in advance and the semi-finished product is subjected to the pleating process, the pleating process can be performed without being restricted by the sewing. You can do it.

Further, according to the present invention, the sewn semi-finished product 14
After the machine pleats are formed on the semi-finished product, the pleats corresponding to the twisting method (twisted form) are attached to the semi-finished product by heat treating by twisting, and pleating is simultaneously performed in the heat treatment. In order to distinguish from machine pleats, pleats obtained by heat treatment while twisted are called twist pleats.

Since the pleats are processed after sewing, the overall design of the pleated product can be selected over a wide range without being restricted by sewing. Further, since there is no restriction on sewing, machine pleats can be applied from various directions.

For example, in the embodiment, FIG. 1 (B) and FIG. 4 (A)
Although the vertical machine pleats are attached to the semi-finished products 14 and 34 with, the direction of the machine pleats can be slanted or horizontal, or the semi-finished products can be passed through the pleat machine twice and the machine pleats in the vertical direction. In addition to the tool, a 45 ° slanted machine pleat may be attached, which increases the degree of freedom in designing the machine pleat.

Further, if the twisting method of the semi-finished products 14, 34, such as the starting position of twisting, the twisting direction, etc., is changed, the screw is tightly or loosely screwed, a hump is attached, or the twisting force or the like is changed, it is different. Twisted pleats can be obtained, enabling a variety of designs with different aesthetic impressions. If the semi-finished product 34 is folded before twisting, the twist pleats are formed substantially symmetrically along the folding line.

Due to the difference in the twisting method, different pleats (twist pleats) are formed simultaneously with the heat treatment, and the machine pleats themselves change depending on the twisting method of the semi-finished products 14, 34.

As described above, according to the present invention, the machine pre-
Since the twist pleats are combined with the pleats, a large number of pleats obtained by multiplying the varieties of the machine pleats with the varieties of the twist pleats are possible. Therefore, it is possible to easily obtain a variety of designs with unique aesthetic impressions that greatly differ in aesthetic impression, and it is possible to process pleat products with high added value.

Further, various advantages can be obtained by sewing the part before pleating. For example, it is not necessary to consider the resilience of the cloth, and it is not necessary to sew while pressing the part, so that the sewing can be performed quickly.
Further, since the sewing is performed before the pleat processing, the overlapping of the fabrics is small and the sewing can be easily performed by the sewing machine. The flexibility which is a characteristic of the pleat is not impaired by sewing, and a pleat product having high flexibility can be obtained.

In addition, sewing including button attachment and pocket attachment is completed before the heat treatment and the pleats are formed by the heat treatment, whereby the pleat products 10 and 30 can be immediately obtained. Therefore, after heat treatment, the pleat products 10 and 30 are packaged and sold.
It can be flushed immediately to the market, and commercialization is accelerated.

A third embodiment is shown in FIGS. In this embodiment, the one piece 70 is pleated. First, left and right sleeves 71L, 71R, front body 72F, left and right back bodies 72
BL and 72BR parts are cut from the cloth and sewn, as shown in Fig. 5 (A).
A semi-finished product 74 having a desired outer shape shown in FIG.

Then, fold the left and right sleeves 71L and 71R to the front as shown in, and pass them through a pleat machine.
Attach the tab (Fig. 5 (B)). Then attach a button (not shown) to the top of the back body 72B. After appropriately rounding the upper half part including the sleeves 71L and 71R, place the semi-finished product 74 on a soft sheet excellent in breathability and heat resistance, for example, a urethane sheet 76 (Fig. 6 (A)), and a urethane sheet. -Twist (Fig. 6 (B)), twist (Fig. 6 (C)), and tie it tight with the strings 77, 78 (Fig. 6 (D)).

Then, both ends of the urethane hood 76 are stopped with clips, and the urethane hood is hung on the holder, and the urethane hood is put in the heat treatment apparatus. Then, the saturated steam touches the semi-finished product 74 through the urethane 76, and a twist pleat according to folding, twisting, and binding is formed and fixed, and the pleat as shown in FIG. 7 is formed. The attached piece 70 is obtained.

In this embodiment, the semi-finished product 74 is a urethane sheet.
Since it is wrapped around the belt 76 and the urethane sheet is tied with a string and heat treated, a complicated twist pleat according to the tied seam can be formed into the semi-finished product 74. Further, since the upper half is rolled and then twisted, a complicated pleat is attached to the upper half as compared with the lower half. It may be rolled as a whole and then twisted.

As described above, by not only simply twisting the semi-finished product 74, but also by winding it around a soft sheet 76 such as a urethane sheet and then binding and rolling it, a twist is combined. The pleats can be sufficiently molded. In other embodiments, the semi-finished product may be twisted after being rolled.

In the conventional method, a so-called twisted portion such as a waist needs to be thinly cut from the fabric, and if a large number of twisted portions are provided, cutting and sewing become complicated. On the other hand, in the present invention, the twisted portion can be set in accordance with the molding of the pleat as follows.

For example, after the machine pleats are attached to the semi-finished product 94 of the raincoat 90 (FIGS. 8 (A) and 8 (B)), the cuffs, the center of the sleeves, the joints between the sleeves and the front body and the back body are joined. Sewn at a total of 9 places including the waist, the lower two places of the waist (Fig. 9 (A))
. In order to distinguish it from normal sewing, this sewing is called temporary sewing. Then, when the temporary sewing thread is pulled, not only the temporary sewing portion 97 is partially twisted, but also the semi-finished product 94 is lightly folded around it (FIG. 9 (B)).

When the semi-finished product 94 is pressed to fix its shape and then heat-treated, the pleat is molded in that shape,
Be established. After the heat treatment, even if the yarn is removed, the shape is maintained as it is, and a pleated raincoat 90 substantially corresponding to FIG. 9B is obtained.

As described above, by tentatively sewing and drawing a thread for tentative stitching, the twist can be freely set. When heat treated in the twisted form, the pleats are applied in the twisted form, and the pleats are It doesn't collapse even if you pull out the string. Then, the form of twist can be adjusted by the method of pulling the thread for the temporary sewing. Further, in the embodiment, the temporary sewn from the front to the back is performed around the entire circumference, but the local pleat can be easily formed on the front or the back by the local sewage such as a part of the front or the back. .

Since the temporary sewing after cutting and sewing, cutting,
Temporary stitching can be performed without being hindered by sewing, and the twisted state and the twisting position can be freely set by the temporary stitching, which further increases the degree of freedom in designing the pleat product.

The semi-finished product 94 may be heat-treated after being wound on the cylinder 98. If the semi-finished product 94 is taken out of the heat treatment apparatus and wrapped in the cylinder, the semi-finished product 94 can be immediately flown to the sales route, which expedites commercialization. Further, since it is wound around the cylinder 98, it is possible to easily obtain a pleated product with good shape retention without being likely to lose its shape.

FIG. 10 shows a fifth embodiment. In this embodiment, the necktie is subjected to pleating, and the sewn semi-finished tie 104 is passed through a pleating machine to attach the machine pleats and twisted appropriately as in the above embodiment (see FIG.
10 (A)-(C)). Then, by heat-treating with a heat-treating device and applying twist pleats, a tie 100 different from the conventional tie can be obtained as shown in FIG. 10 (D). FIG. 10 (E) schematically shows the usage state. Like ties, bow ties can be pleated.

In the case of a pleated product having a simple shape such as a tie or a bow tie, the machine pleats may be omitted, and the twist pleats alone may be used for finishing.

In the embodiment, the semi-finished product is passed through the pleat machine, the machine pleats are attached, and then the twist pleats are attached by heat treatment while twisting. However, instead of the machine pleats, hand pleats are used. You may twist and heat-process after attaching.

In the embodiment, the blouses 10, 30, the one piece 70, the raincoat 90, and the tie 100 are exemplified as the pleated products, but the pleats are not limited to these, and for example,
Various pleat products such as tee shirts, skirts, slacks, and cocktail dresses can be similarly processed by the processing method of the present invention.

The folding method, the winding method, the twisting method, the binding method with a string, the temporary stitching and the like in the embodiments are merely examples, and other folding methods can be arbitrarily selected.

The above-mentioned embodiments are intended to explain the present invention, and do not limit the present invention at all, and all modifications and alterations made within the technical scope of the present invention are also included in the present invention. It goes without saying that it will be done.

[0054]

As described above, according to the method for processing a pleat product of the present invention, a semi-finished product with machine pleats or hand pleats is wound with a soft sheet, twisted, tied with a string and heat treated, and then twisted. Adding pleats.
Therefore, it is possible to create a wide variety of designs by multiplying the variations of machine pleats (hand pleats) with the variations of twist pleats, and it is easy to obtain pleated products with high added value.

Since the pleats are processed after sewing, the overall design of the pleated product can be selected in a wide range without being restricted by sewing, and the machine pleats (hand pleats) can be selected from various directions. Various variers
Is obtained.

Furthermore, in twist pleats obtained by heat-treating a soft sheet wound around a semi-finished product, the method of twisting the semi-finished product, such as the starting position of twisting and the twisting direction, may be changed or tightly or loosely twisted. Different twist pleats can be obtained by attaching a hump or changing a twisting method such as a twisting force, and a variety of designs having different aesthetic impressions can be obtained.

Due to the difference in the twisting method, different twist pleats are formed at the same time as the heat treatment, and the machine pleats and hand pleats formed in advance also change depending on the twisting method of the semi-finished product. Pleated products with a wide variety of designs and a high degree of freedom in design can be processed.

Since the parts are sewn before the pleats are processed, it is not necessary to sew while pressing the parts, and the sewing can be performed quickly. In addition, there is little overlapping of fabrics, and sewing with a sewing machine can be easily performed. And, the flexibility which is a characteristic of the pleat is not impaired by sewing, and the pleat is rich in flexibility.
Tsu product is obtained.

Sewing including button attachment and pocket attachment can be done before heat treatment. If the pleats are formed by heat treatment, pleated products can be obtained immediately and commercialization is promoted.

When rolled and then twisted, a pleat having an aesthetic impression different from other parts is formed.

Further, complicated pleats corresponding to the seams of the soft sheet are formed.

Basting and sewage If the sewn thread is heat treated while pulled and twisted, the pleats are applied in a twisted form, which differs by changing the twisting method and the twisting position depending on how the sewn thread is pulled. The pleats are molded.

As described above, before the heat treatment, by winding a soft sheet such as a urethane sheet and then binding or rolling it with a twist, or by pulling a temporary sewing thread and twisting and pressing the temporary sewing portion, Pleats with a wide variety of varieties can be molded, and new pleated products that rapidly break down the conventional concept of pleated products can be quickly produced.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of how to twist a semi-finished product.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a process in which a semi-finished product is subjected to heat treatment and a development view of a pleated product (blouse).

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of how to fold a semi-finished product.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of another twisting method of a semi-finished product and a development view of a pleat product (blouse).

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product before being wound with a urethane sheet.

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product which is wound with a urethane sheet, twisted, and tied with a string.

FIG. 7 is a development view of a pleated product (one piece).

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product before being sewn.

FIG. 9 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product which is twisted by using the temporary sewing.

FIG. 10 is a schematic view showing a method for processing a pleated product (tie) according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

10, 30, 70, 90, 100 pleated products (blouses, dresses
11L, 11R, 31L, 31R, 71L, 71R parts (sleeve) 12FL, 12FR, 32FL, 32FR, 72F parts (front body) 12B, 32B, 72B parts (sleeve, raincoat, tie) Rear body) 14, 34, 74, 94, 104 Semi-finished products (sewn parts) 15 Pockets 16 Buttons 20 Heat treatment device 76 Urethane sheet (soft sheet) 77, 78 String

Claims (6)

(57) [Claims] 1. A semi-finished product after sewing is passed through a pleating machine to be machine-pleated, and then a semi-finished product is wound with a soft sheet having excellent air permeability and heat resistance, and the rolled soft sheet is twisted and tied with a string. After processing, the semi-finished product is heat-treated and heat-treated to form pleats. 2. The semi-finished product after sewing is hand-pleated, and then the semi-finished product is wound with a soft sheet having excellent breathability and heat resistance, and the soft sheet wound is twisted and tied with a string before being applied to a heat treatment apparatus. A method for processing pleated products in which semi-finished products are heat-treated and then pleats are formed. 3. The method for processing a pleated product according to claim 1, wherein the semi-finished product is rolled and then wrapped with a soft sheet. 4. The semi-finished product after sewing is tentatively sewn, and after passing through a pleating machine to be machine-pleated, the tentatively-stitched portion is twisted by pulling the tentatively-stitched thread, pressed, and then placed in a heat treatment apparatus to be a semi-finished product. A method for processing pleated products in which heat treatment is applied to form pleats. 5. The semifinished product after sewing is tentatively sewn, and after hand pleating, the tentative stitching thread is pulled to twist the tentatively sewn portion, and after pressing, the semifinished product is placed in a heat treatment apparatus and heat treated to the semifinished product. A method for processing pleated products that are pleated. 6. The method for processing a pleated product according to claim 4, wherein the pressed semi-finished product is rolled into a cylinder and placed in a heat treatment apparatus.