JP3246302U - Jacket - Google Patents

Abstract

[Problem] The object of the present invention is to provide a jacket that allows easy sleeve length adjustment and prevents damage to the fabric when used repeatedly. [Solution] In the jacket 1, the width dimension w3 of the outer sleeve 5 at the cuff finish line 10 is longer than the width dimension w4 of the inner sleeve 6. A pair of core materials 20, 21 of a single-layered invel core are attached to the cuff portion 9 of the sleeve portion 4 along the circumferential direction. The length dimension w0 of the pair of core materials 20, 21 is shorter than the width dimension w4, and there are gaps 15a, 15b between their ends, with the inner sleeve line 8 passing through the gap 15a, and the inner sleeve line 7 and the center position 16 being located in the gap 15b. The core materials 20, 21 are attached with adhesive to the inside of the seam allowance 11 of the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, respectively. [Selected Figure] Figure 3

Description

This invention relates to a jacket with adjustable sleeve length.

Conventionally, if the sleeve length of a purchased jacket does not fit, the sleeves are shortened to fit the wearer. This shortening is done by sewing, which takes time and makes it impossible to wear the garment immediately. For this reason, Patent Document 1 proposes a garment in which the tip position of the sleeve can be adjusted by folding back the outer sleeve along a guide member that is enclosed in a ring shape inside the outer sleeve.

Patent No. 7321348 Publication No. 3239944

Patent Document 1 discloses a jacket in which a guide member is enclosed in a ring shape. The sleeves of this jacket are made by sewing a single piece of cloth into a tubular shape. When the jacket in Patent Document 1 is hung on a hanger and displayed, the cuffs naturally form a ring shape and look bad. Some jackets on the market have sleeves in which the outer and inner sleeves are sewn into a tubular shape, but Patent Document 1 does not take into consideration sleeves that are made up of an outer and inner sleeve. However, even if the technology shown in Patent Document 1 is applied to sleeves that are made up of an outer and inner sleeve, the cuffs naturally form a ring shape and look bad.

As for hemming trousers, Patent Document 2 shows a technique for attaching a core material by leaving a gap between the front and back crease lines. The front and back crease lines are located diagonally from the tubular hem. With this technique, the core material is attached avoiding the front and back crease lines. The core material is attached across the inner crotch line and side line that sew the front and back body parts together, but due to the hardness of the core material, it forms a straight line at the inner crotch line and side line, so the hem does not become tubular and can be folded at the front and back crease lines.

On the other hand, the sleeves of the jacket do not have fold lines that correspond to the crease lines. Therefore, in order to avoid the cuffs from deforming into a tubular shape, the technology of the trousers in Patent Document 2 cannot be applied directly to the jacket. Furthermore, in the sleeves of the jacket, in which the outer and inner sleeves are sewn together into a tubular shape, the position of the pair of seam lines that sew the outer and inner sleeves together is not on the diagonal of the tubular cuffs, and the sleeves are not folded at the position of the pair of seam lines, so the pair of seam lines do not correspond to the crease lines of the trousers.

The purpose of this invention is to provide an outerwear that allows easy adjustment of sleeve length, prevents damage to the fabric through repeated use, and does not cause sleeves to become circular.

In order to achieve the above object, the jacket of the present invention has a sleeve portion 4 consisting of an outer sleeve 5 and an inner sleeve 6, in which the width dimension w3 of the outer sleeve 5 at the cuff finishing line 10 is longer than the width dimension w4 of the inner sleeve 6,
The garment has a pair of band-shaped core materials 20, 21 attached circumferentially to the cuff portion 9 of the sleeve portion 4, the length dimension w0 of the pair of core materials 20, 21 is shorter than the width dimension w4, and has gaps 15a, 15b between their ends, the inner sleeve line 8 is arranged to pass through the gap 15a, the outer sleeve line 7 is arranged to pass through the gap 15b, and either the center position 16 of the cuff diagonally opposite the inner sleeve line 8 or the center position 16' of the cuff diagonally opposite the outer sleeve line 7 is within the range of the gap 15b or the gap 15a, and the core materials 20, 21 are single-layered invel cores attached with adhesive to the inside of the seam allowances of the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, respectively.

According to this invention, the sleeve length can be easily adjusted by folding back the cuffs, which are filled with Invel interlining, and the sleeves fold naturally when hung up. Also, by cutting off the four corners of the interlining, damage to the fabric can be reduced.

1A and 1B are views showing a jacket according to the present invention, in which FIG. 1A is a front view and FIG. 1B is a back view. 2A is an explanatory view showing an enlarged sleeve portion, with FIG. 2A showing the cuff in an unfolded state, FIG. 2B showing a PP cross section of the cuff, and FIG. 2C showing a comparative example. 3A is an explanatory diagram of an enlarged development of the cuff portion, in which FIG. 3A shows the state where the core material is attached with adhesive, FIG. 3B shows the state where the fabric at the lower end is folded toward the core material, FIG. 3C shows the state where it is folded along the cuff finish line, FIG. 3D is a cross-sectional view taken along line X-X of FIG. 3A, FIG. 3E is a cross-sectional view taken along line Y-Y of FIG. 3B, FIG. 3F is a cross-sectional view taken along line Z-Z of FIG. 3C, and FIG. 3G shows another embodiment. 4A shows details of the core material; FIG. 4A is a reel-shaped invel core; FIG. 4B shows the core material before the corners are cut; FIG. 4C shows the core material after the corners have been cut; and FIG. 4D is a diagram explaining the stitching portion of the core material. FIG. 11 is an explanatory diagram showing the use of the cuff portion.

The jacket according to the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.
Fig. 1 shows a jacket, with Fig. 1A being a front view of the jacket 1 and Fig. 1B being a back view. The jacket 1 comprises a front body 2, a back body 3, and sleeves 4. The sleeves 4 comprise two pieces, an outer sleeve 5 and an inner sleeve 6, which are sewn together, with the seam line appearing on the back side being the outer sleeve line 7 and the seam line appearing on the front side being the inner sleeve line 8. A cuff 9 is formed at the tip of the sleeve 4, and a pair of padding materials are attached inside the cuff 9.

Figure 2 is an explanatory diagram of an enlarged sleeve, with Figure 2A showing the cuff unfolded, Figure 2B showing a P-P cross section of the cuff, and Figure 2C showing a comparative example. In Figure 2A, the sleeve 4 is cut at the inner sleeve line 8 and unfolded (although it appears on the left and right in the figure, it is actually a single seam line). The dashed dotted line in the figure is the cuff finish line 10 (the line that will become the tip that goes around the cuff of the finished jacket), and the outer sleeve 5 and inner sleeve 6 below that form the seam allowance 11. The seam allowance 12 of the outer sleeve line 7 and the seam allowance 13 of the inner sleeve line 8 are pressed toward the outer sleeve 5. The width dimension w3 of the outer sleeve 5 at the cuff finish line 10 is longer than the width dimension w4 of the inner sleeve 6.

The interlinings 20 and 21 are attached to the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, one each. The interlinings 20 and 21 are strip-shaped members made of woven synthetic fibers, and are invel interlinings used in the waist areas of trousers, skirts, etc.

In this embodiment, the core materials 20, 21 have a width dimension w2 of 28 mm. The length dimension w0 of the core materials 20, 21 is a length that allows the entire circumference of the cuff portion 9 to be folded inward when the cuff portion 9 is folded inward, and is slightly shorter than the width dimension w4. The core materials 20, 21 are formed into an octagon with the corners of the band-shaped member cut diagonally.

Figure 2B shows the state before and after the interlining 20, 21 is attached to the cuffs, which have been formed into a tubular shape by the outer sleeve line 7 and inner sleeve line 8. Because the length dimension w0 of the interlining 20, 21 is shorter than the width dimension w4, the cuffs can be folded flat near the outer sleeve line 7 and inner sleeve line 8. The interlining 20, 21 makes it difficult for the area between the outer sleeve line 7 and inner sleeve line 8 to bend, and keeps it straight. This helps prevent the cuffs from becoming tubular when the jacket is hung and displayed.

Figure 2C shows a comparative example in which the length dimension w1 of the core material 20a is shorter than the width dimension w3 and longer than the width dimension w4, and the length dimension w0 of the core material 21a is shorter than the width dimension w4. The core materials 20a, 21a attempt to maintain a straight line between the outer sleeve line 7 and the inner sleeve line 8, but because the length dimension w1 of the core material 20a is longer than the width dimension w4, the cuff of the outer sleeve 5 bulges. This means that when the jacket is hung and displayed, the cuff will have a D-ring shape. In this way, the length dimension w0 of the core materials 20, 21 must be shorter than the width dimension w4.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged explanatory diagram showing the process of finishing the cuff into the cuff portion 9. In order to explain the sewing state of the cuff portion 9, the sleeve portion 4 is cut at the inner sleeve line 8 and unfolded, and the cuff portion 9 is shown in an enlarged manner.
In Fig. 3A, the interlinings 20, 21 are attached to the seam allowance 11 with an adhesive. The interlinings 20, 21 are arranged along the circumferential direction inside the seam allowance 11 of each of the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6. Two gaps 15a, 15b are formed between the ends of the pair of interlinings 20, 21. The gap 15a is in a state where the inner sleeve line 8, which is the seam line between the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, passes through at the cuff 9. Meanwhile, the outer sleeve line 7, which is the seam line between the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, passes through the range of the gap 15b.

The two-dot chain line in Figure 3A indicates the center position 16 of the width dimension of the cuff portion 9 when it is cut at the inner sleeve line 8 and unfolded. In a ring-shaped cuff, it is located at a diagonal position of the inner sleeve line 8. The width dimension w5 (towards the outer sleeve 5) and the width dimension w6 (towards the inner sleeve 6) from the inner sleeve line 8 to the center position 16 are equal. On the other hand, the outer sleeve line 7 and the inner sleeve line 8 are not located at diagonal positions when the cuff is ring-shaped.

When the cuff 9 is folded on a flat surface, the width w3 of the outer sleeve 5 is shorter than the width w4 of the inner sleeve 6, so when one is folded along the inner sleeve line 8, the folding position of the other will shift from the outer sleeve line 7. Therefore, if there is a core at the center position 16, it will be distorted. Therefore, it is better to make the outer sleeve line 7 and the center position 16 exist within the gap 15b. In the illustrated example, the width w7 from the inner sleeve line 8 to the end of the core 20 is 3 mm, the width w9 from the outer sleeve line 7 to the end of the core 21 is 3 mm, the width w8 from the center position 16 to the end of the core 20 is 3 mm, and the width w10 from the end of the seam allowance 13 of the inner sleeve line 8 to the end of the core 21 is 3 mm.

In Figure 3B, the fabric at the bottom end of the seam allowance 11 is folded towards the core materials 20, 21. In Figure 3C, it is folded along the cuff finish line 10, and the core materials 20, 21 are sewn to the fabric of the sleeve portion 4 by a sewing line 17. Since the fabric is folded in three at the cuff portion, the width of the seam allowance is about 1.5 times the width of the core materials 20, 21. In this way, the bottom end of the seam allowance 11 is folded back to wrap around the core materials 20, 21, and in this state, the core materials 20, 21 are folded back at the cuff finish line 10, and the upper ends of the core materials 20, 21 are sewn to the sleeve portion 4. In this way, the cuff portion 9 is formed at the bottom end of the sleeve portion 4.

The cores 20 and 21 will be described in more detail with reference to FIG. 4. The cores 20 and 21, which are invel cores, are provided in a reeled state (FIG. 4A), which are cut into strips of the required length (FIG. 4B), and the squares are then cut diagonally (FIG. 4C). As a result, the cores 20 and 21 are formed with sides 14a, 14b, 14c, and 14d, in which the square corners of the belt-shaped member are cut diagonally. The cores 20 and 21 are inside the seam allowance 11, and the outer sleeve 5 and inner sleeve 6 of the sleeve portion 4 are sewn to the upper edge of the cores 20 and 21, with the sewing line 17 being sewn so as to cross the diagonally cut sides 14a and 14b of the cores 20 and 21 (FIG. 4D). New corners s and t are created by cutting the square corners of the core, but the sewing line 17 passes between the corners s and t, so that both corners s and t can be held in place. Even if the strength of the adhesive that fixes the core materials 20, 21 to the fabric weakens, it is possible to reduce the likelihood of the core materials 20, 21 peeling off due to corners s or t. The fact that the length dimensions of the core materials 20, 21 are the same contributes to the productivity of the jacket in that it is not necessary to prepare core materials of different lengths.

Figure 5 is a partial explanatory diagram showing the cuff 9 in use, with Figure 5A showing the cuff 9 not folded over and Figure 5B showing the cuff folded over once inwards. When the cuff 9 is folded over, the sleeve length is shortened by an amount slightly larger than the width of the core materials 20, 21. The Invel core used for the core materials 20, 21 has excellent shape retention, so it can maintain its folded over state. If necessary, the cuff can be folded over two or three times to shorten the sleeve length.

In the above embodiment, the length dimension w0 of the core material 20, 21 is the same for both, but it does not necessarily have to be the same, and it is sufficient if it is slightly shorter than the width dimension w4 (3 mm on both sides in the embodiment). If the difference between the width dimension w4 and the length dimension w0 is small, the cuff will be more linear. In addition, in the embodiment, for convenience of explanation, the center position 16 of the cuff diagonally opposite the inner sleeve line 8 and the outer sleeve line 7 are arranged within the gap 15b. As a result, one of the folding positions of the cuff becomes the inner sleeve line 8. In contrast, the center position of the cuff diagonally opposite the outer sleeve line 7 may be arranged in the gap 15a. In this case, as shown in FIG. 3G, the inner sleeve line 8 and the center position 16' are present within the gap 15a, and the folding position of the cuff becomes the outer sleeve line 7 and the center position 16'. Note that FIG. 3G shows the state in which the cuff portion 9 is cut and unfolded at the outer sleeve line 7, and the center of the width dimension of the unfolded state is the center position 16'. The width dimension w5' (on the outer sleeve 5 side) from the inner sleeve line 8 to the center position 16' is equal to the width dimension w6' (on the inner sleeve 6 side).

1 Jacket 2 Front body 3 Back body 4 Sleeve portion 5 Outer sleeve 6 Inner sleeve 7 Outer sleeve line 8 Inner sleeve line 9 Cuff portion 10 Cuff finish line 11 Cuff seam allowance 12 Outer sleeve line seam allowance 13 Inner sleeve line seam allowance 14a, 14b, 14c, 14d Sides 15a, 15b Gap 16, 16' Center position 17 Stitching lines 20, 21 Interlining material

Claims (3)

In an outer garment having a sleeve portion 4 consisting of an outer sleeve 5 and an inner sleeve 6, a width dimension w3 of the outer sleeve 5 at a cuff finishing line 10 is longer than a width dimension w4 of the inner sleeve 6,
said outer sleeve line 7 being disposed so that a center position 16 of the cuff diagonally opposite to the inner sleeve line 8 or a center position 16' of the cuff diagonally opposite to the outer sleeve line 7 is within the range of said gap 15b or said gap 15a; and said core materials 20, 21 are single-layered invel core materials attached with an adhesive to the inside of the seam allowances of the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6, said core materials 20, 21 being single-layered invel core materials attached with an adhesive to the inside of the seam allowances of the outer sleeve 5 and the inner sleeve 6.
2. The jacket according to claim 1, wherein the core members (20, 21) are formed into an octagon with the four corners cut off obliquely.
The jacket of claim 2, wherein the seam allowance where the core materials 20, 21 of the cuff portion 9 are attached is sewn by a seam line 17 located at a position intersecting with the side where the left and right corners of the upper edge of the core materials 20, 21 are cut diagonally.