US1963309A - Belt - Google Patents

Description

June 1934- R. MULLER 1,963,309 y} BELT Filed Nov. 24, 1935.

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Patented June 19, 1934 UNITED STATES BELT Robert Muller, Rockville Center, N. Y., assignor to Schaffer Belts, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation Application November 24, 1933, Serial No. 699,50'7' 6 Claims.

This invention pertains to wearing apparel and relates more particularly to an improved belt and to a method of making the same.

While belts are often made of a single piece of leather or the like without attempt at providing a finely finished inner surface,-belts designed particularly for womens wear are commonly lined. Such lined belts comprise a front or exposed ply of a suitable material, for example, thin and pliable leather,-colored, embossed, or otherwise finished or ornamented to provide a pleasing appearance or to match or properly contrast with the material of the garment with which it may be associated,and a lining or facing member properly secured to the front or outer ply, said lining being designed to conceal and finish the inner surface of this front ply as well as to impart added strength. This lining may consist of material similar to that of the outer or front ply or some other suitable material, for example, textile fabric such as silk or satin, and is commonly secured to the outer ply by sewed seams.

In accordance with one usual procedure, the lining is attached to the outer or front ply by means of seams comprising stitches which pass through both the front ply and the lining, and the rows of stitches are thus visible at the exposed surface of the belt. When finely finished and delicately textured or tinted materials are employed for the front ply, these exposed rows of stitches mar the general uniformity of the surface and thus detract from the desired artistic effect. For this reason it has heretofore been proposed to sew the lining and the front ply together wrong side out and then to turn the belt so as to expose the finished surfaces of the front ply and lining and at the same time to conceal the seams which unite the parts, but such turning of the long and narrow tubular structure is troublesome to per- 40 form and commonly results in so stretching or wrinkling the thin and delicate materials, or in cracking the surface of patent or enameled leathers, that their original appearance can never be restored. 4 In accordance with the present invention, both of the foregoing difiiculties are overcome, and the improved belt made in accordance with the novel process herein disclosed is devoid of any visible seam at the exposed surface of the front 5 ply; the front ply remains unwrinkled, un-

stetched, or otherwise defaced or injured; and the operations involved are simplified so that they may be carried out rapidly and easily and without the employment ofspecial tools or implements except the usual sewing mechanism.

In the accompanying drawing in which I have illustrated one desirable embodiment of my invention by way of example,

Fig. 1 is a front elevation, partly broken away, illustrating a completed belt embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary elevation, partly in perspective, illustrating the outer ply ready for association with the lining;

Fig. 3 is a composite view showing in elevation, and partly in perspective, portions of the two lining members;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary elevation illustrating the step of securing one of the lining members to the front ply; 7

Fig. 5 is a section, to larger scale, substantially on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary elevation illustrating the subsequent step of securing the second lining member to the front ply; 7

Fig. 7 is a section, to larger scale, substantially on the line 7- -7 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a section illustrating the arrangement of the parts at the completion of the next step of the process of manufacture; 80

Fig. 9 is a similar section,-showing the parts in convenient position for uniting the adjacent edges of the lining members;

Fig. 10 is a section showing the parts as they appear after the inner edges of the lining members have been united;

Fig. 11 is a section showing the arrangement of the parts after the lining seam has been pressed; and

Fig. 12 is a fragmentaryelevation showing the appearance of the inner or rear side of the completed belt.

Referring to the drawing, the numeral 1 indicates a length of material suitable for forming the face or front ply of the belt. This material may be of any desired character, but for convenience in description maybe-referred to as thin, pliable and finely finished leather having the outer or finished surface 2 and the inner or unfinished surface 3. This length of material is of dimensions appropriate to the formation of the desired belt, and after this length of material has been prepared, the next subsequent step consists preferably in skiving or beveling its longitudinal edges as illustrated at 4 and 5 so as to make these edges thin and flexible and to define a line of fold for a purpose hereinafter described.

In addition to this forward ply I provide a pair of lining members 6 and 6*, respectively (Fig. 3), which may be of any desired material as already suggested, either similar to that of the front ply or otherwise,usually of textile fabric. While both sides of this fabric may be alike, it may frequently happen, as in the case of satins, for example, that one side is a finished and the other an unfinished side, and in the drawing the finished side of the lining member 6 is indicated at 7 and the unfinished side at 8. Likewise the finished side of the member 6 is indicated at 9 and the unfinished side at 10. These lining members are of a length substantially equal to that of the front ply and are of an aggregate width somewhat greater than the width of the front ply.

Having prepared the members 1, 6 and 6 the next step is to attach one of the lining members to the front ply. In performing this step, the finished surface 2 of the front ply and the finished surface 7 of the lining member 6, for example, are placed face to face, with a longitudinal edge of each in substantial registry with an edge of the other, as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5, and their registering edges are united, preferably by means of a seam 11 comprising stitches which pass through the entire thickness of both members. The next step is to secure the other lining member, for example, the member 6 to the front ply, and for this purpose the finished surface 9 of the lining member 6 is placed in contact with the finished surface 2 of the front ply and with the edges of the parts in registry, and these edges are then united by a seam 12 similar to the seam 11. The seams 11 and 12 may readily be made on an ordinary sewing machine.

The next step is to turn the parts so that they occupy relative positions substantially as shown in Fig. 8. In so doing the front ply 1 is bent or folded along its skived edges to provide the longitudinal fold lines 13 and 14, respectively, while at the same time the skived margins form what may be termed longitudinal flaps 16 and 17 which lie in substantially parallel relation to the inner or rear surface of the front ply 1. Likewise, fold lines 15 and 16 are formed in the lining members 6 and 6 respectively, such fold lines preferably being nearer to the seams 11 and 12 than are the fold lines 13 and 14. This folding of the lining members 6 and 6 produces the longitudinal flaps 18 and 19, respectively, it being noted that by thus turning the parts, the seams 11 and 12 become blind or concealed seams.

Referring to Figs. '7 and 8, it will be noted that the widths of the lining members '6 and 6 are such that their free or unattached edges substantially overlap, thus providing material for use in forming a uniting seam.

The next step in the operation comprises the turning in or doubling of the free edges of the lining members 6 and 6 to conceal the raw edges, thus forming the longitudinal flaps 20 and 21 so that each free edge portion becomes of two-ply construction. The flaps20 and 21 are now laid in contact, as illustrated in Fig. 9, forming a four-ply structure 23, and these plies are united by a sewed seam 22 comprising stitches which pass through all four plies. This seam v I may readily be formed by means of an ordinary sewing machine, for example, byarranging the parts as shown in Fig. 9. After this seam has been formed, the four-ply structure 23 is folded along its union with one of the lining members,

for example, the member 6, so as to bring the.

parts into the position illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12, and the lining may now be subjected to pressure and heat, if desired, so as to set the parts. This completes the operation of uniting the lining to the front ply, and the belt may now be finished in any desired way as, for example, by

shaping and stitching one end as illustrated at 24 and by setting in the eyelets 25 and attaching a buckle or clasp 26.

In the finished belt the front ply, as illustrated in Fig. l, is entirely free of any exposed stitches or other attaching members by which it is united to the lining, except possibly at the end 24 where such stitches may be used in finishing the extremity of the belt. The upper and lower edges 6 and 6 are of substantially equal width, I contemplate making them of unequal length so that the welt structure 23 may be disposed nearer one edge of the completed belt than the other. It may also be noted that by reason of this mode of procedure an interliner, for example, a length of hair cloth or other suitable stiffener or'pad ding, may easily be interposed between the front ply 1 and the lining without substantial change in the mode "of procedure and without making it more difficult or interfering with the steps of the process as above outlined.

While I have indicated a specific order of steps, I wish it to be understood that such order of steps may be varied under certain circumstances and that variations from the suggested materials and the specified means of attaching the several elements to each other may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention.

I claim: I

1. A belt comprising a front ply and a lining, the lining including two independent parts each respectively united, along one edge, by a sewed seam to one edge of the front ply, the opposite edges of said lining parts being united by a sewed seam, the seams which unite the edges of the front ply to the respective lining parts being invisible from the exposed face of the front ply.

2. A belt comprising a front ply having its longitudinal margins folded down into substantially parallel relation to its rear surface, a pair of liner members each united by a blind seam to one respectively of the folded margins of the front ply, and a seam uniting the other edges of said lining members.

3. A belt comprising a front ply of soft and flexible material, the longitudinal margins of said ply being beveled to provide thin edges, said margins being folded down into substantially parallel relation to the rear surface of the front ply, a pair of liner members, each liner member having its longitudinal margins folded over against that face which is concealed in the completed belt, means uniting each folded margin of the front ply to one folded margin of one of the lining members, respectively, and a sewed seam comprising, stitches uniting the other folded margins of the lining members to each other, the stitches of'said latter seam being invisible from the front of the belt.

4. A belt comprising a front ply of soft and flexible material, said ply being folded at its margins to provide longitudinal flaps at its rear side, a pair of liner members each folded at one margin to provide a longitudinal flap at that side of the lining member which is concealed in the completed belt, means uniting the flaps at the margins of the front ply to the flaps of the respective lining members, said uniting means being invisible from the outer or inner side of the completed belt, the other margins of the lining members also being folded to provide flaps, said latter flaps being disposed in face to face contact, a seam comprising stitches passing through said latter flaps and through the marginal portions of the liner members of which the flaps form parts, respectively, said latter marginal parts of the liner members with their flaps all being disposed in planes substantially parallel to the plane of the front ply.

5. That method of making apparel belts which comprises as steps preparing a length of material suitable for a front ply, preparing a pair of liner members each of a length substantially corresponding to that of the front ply and of an aggregate Width exceeding the width of the front ply, sewing each of the liner members to one of the longitudinal margins of the front ply, respectively, with the finished faces of the front ply and the liner members, which are to be exposed in the completed belt, in contact with each other, reversing the parts so as to expose the finished surfaces of the front ply and lining members and forming distinct fold lines along the united margins of the front ply and lining members, respectively, turning in the raw edges of the free marginal portions of the lining members, and uniting said margins by stitches which do not penetrate the front ply.

6. That method of making apparel belts which comprises as steps preparing a length of material suitable for a front ply, skiving the longitudinal edges of said length of material at the rear surface thereof to provide beveled edges, preparing a pair of liner members each of a length substantially corresponding to the length of the front ply and of an aggregate width exceeding the width of said front ply, securing each of the liner members by a sewed seam to one of the longitudinal skived margins of the front ply, respectively, with the finished faces of the front ply and of the liner members, which are to be exposed in the completed belt, in contact with each other, reversing the parts so as to expose the finished faces of the front ply and lining members, and forming distinct fold lines adjacent to the united margins of the front ply and. lining members, respectively, the fold lines in the front ply being spaced farther from the sewed seams than are the fold lines in the corresponding lining members, doubling the raw edges of the free margins of the lining members to form two plies, placing the doubled two-ply margins of said liner members in contact, uniting the four plies thus provided by a sewed seam, and turning the united plies of lining material along said seam to cause the four-fold structure to lie substantially parallel to the finished exposed face of one of the liner members.

ROBERT MULLER.

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