US2093192A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

D. L. FINE Sept 14, 193?.

GARMENT Filed Feb. 8, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet l Davidl..izae,

Sept. 14, 1937. D NE 2,093,192

GARMENT Filed Feb. 8, 1937 2 Shets-Sheet 2 J0 i/z'd 17.1 226 Patented Sept. 14, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Application February 8, 1937, Serial No. 124,729

9 Claims.

The present invention relates generally to the type of womans undergarment known as a slip and is more particularly directed to improvements in the type of garment represented by a combinationslip and brassiere.

One object of the present invention is to provide a combination garment of this type devoid of all fastening devices or the customary slits or openings for such fastening devices and which, nevertheless, comprises a bodice portion which fits snugly against the wearer's bust and has an uplift effect thereon, this portion serving the wearer in lieuof a brassiere or bandeau.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a combination garment of the type described which presents a finished appearance on the inside" and outside of the garment so that the same may be worn with either surface exposed, and in which the front bodice or the bandeau portion of the garment has one type of material, such as lace or the like, on one face and another type of material, such as silk or the like, on the other face, thereby providing a single garment which presents a different ornamental appearance on the two sides.

Other objects of the invention comprise structural features in a garment of this type which increase the comfort of the wearer and reduce the cost of manufacture of the garment.

One preferred embodiment of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

Fig. 1 is a front view of the garment;

Fig. 2 is a back view thereof;

Fig. 3 is a detail section taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a detail section taken on line 4-4 of at the dart taken on the lines Il-| l, l2i2, and

l3-l3, respectively, of Fig. 9;-

Figs. 14, 15, and 16 show the'construction of the other vertical seams 18- and are taken on the lines 14-44, |5--l5, and I6-l6, respectively.

While the present preferred embodiment of the invention takes the form of a combined slip and bandeau or brassiere, it will be understood that the present invention or the several features many as six folds or layers of material.

(on. a-wa) thereof may be embodied in other types of garments.

In the present garment the upper bodice portion of the front of the garment is held snugly against the wearer's bust by the band of elastic material which is permanently sewed to the top of the back panel of the skirt portion of the garment and which is sewed at its ends to the bandeau.

The brassire or bandeau portion, generally indicated by the reference character A. is composed often pieces properly assembled and sewed together so as to form a pair of breast receiving pockets B and C together with the waist band D which gives the garment an uplift effect, and, with .the elastic band I2, provides a snug fit of the bodice to the wearer's bust. Aside from the elastic band II, the remaining ten pieces are made either of customary textile material, such pieces shaped the same way. These pieces l3,

each have a pair of upwardly inclined upper edges H which meet at the point l5 which falls, preferably, on ,the'center line of the piece, and two slits I6 and ii. The material disposed between the slits l6 and "forms the gore l8 when these slits are properly sewed as will be described later.

The lower horizontal edges I9, 2| follow a more or less upwardly curved line so that the vertical edge 22; which, whenthe garment is completed, falls in the middle of the front of the bodice, is substantiallyshorter than the vertical edge 23, which enters into the side seam of the garment. 1

Fig. 6 shows the shape of the blanks that make the waist band or insert 21 which is made of two layers, preferably of silk; and Fig. '7 showsthe shape of four pieces 28, preferably silk, which make the side panels of the bandeau or bodice portion of the garment.

In the fabrication of the bodice, all seams are of the infolded type which present a finished appearance on eachface of the garment. In the present construction, many seams contain as In the present garment these seams are treated in such a manner as to obviate the formation of beads or other causes of discomfort and unsightliness. Such seams are first secured by a concealed line of stitching substantially spaced from the raw edges. Such line of stitching is indicated by reference characters 29, 3|, and 60, in Fig. 3.

Figs. 3, 4, and 8 show the seam constructions in an exaggerated form for the sake of clarity. When the associated layers are now turned, they are drawn substantially taut so that the concealed row of stitching is disposed at the very outer edge of the seam, and the seam is finished by a second exposed row of stitches, which passes through the two. panels of material and also through the edges disposed between the panels. This second row is spaced from the seam and causes the panels and the raw edges to be secured together. The same row also serves to hold the material immediately adjacent the scam in such condition that the possibility of the formation of beads or the like at the seam is obviated and the entire seam remains fiat.

The following will now describe the method of assembling the elements that enter into the bodice or bandeau portion of the garment and the method of associating the same with the skirt portion of the garment.

One lace piece 13 and a silk piece l3 are placed face to face and sewed together along the edges l4, l4 by a line of stitching 3|. The two other pieces l3 are treated similarly. One of these assemblies is turned right side out and disposed between the plies of the other so that the edges 22 are in registry and the four layers of edge material are secured by a row of stitching along the edge 22, thereby forming seam 28. This assembly now consisting of the four pieces is turned right side out. It will be understood that the part to the right of the seam 28 is the same as the part to the left and that each has two integral gore portions l8 between the slits l6 and I1. These slits are now closed each by a concealed line of stitching 29, each line of stitching serving to sew together the four adjacent edges in each slit. The slits l6, namely the slits nearest the center seam 28, have to be closed before the corresponding slit I1 -is closed. In closing the slits l6 and I1 by'stitching 29, care is taken that the amount of material taken in at these seams increases from the upper end of the slit to the bottom of the slit, thereby imparting to the structure the desired pocket or cup formation. The V-shaped lines of stitching 321 are then applied over each side of the gores l8 as shown, care being taken that the plies are drawn substantially taut and smooth away from the line of stitching 29 before or during this stitching operation.

The cup shaped members now constitute a unit which is now properly assembled with the two elements 2! which are to constitute the waist band or insert D in the following manner. The two pieces 21 are placed over the assembly thus far completed, one on each face thereof with its rawedges 33, 33 in registry with the raw edges l 9, 28,

2| of each pocket, taking care that the right face of each piece 21 is disposed against the corresponding right face of the assembly and the four layered raw edge is then stitched along the broken line 34 by a row of stitching 80. The two pieces 21 are now turned down as-far as the last line of stitching will permit and the line of stitching 35 is made which completes this seam.

The side pieces 28 are now properly assembled with the front of the bodice. As aflrst step in this process a pair of pieces 28 are placed in juxtaposition, face to face or right sides against each other with the raw edges in registry, and the edges 31 are sewed together along the broken line 38, forming a concealed line of stitching as shown by 3|. The pieces are turned down over this stitching. The edges 38 are now turned in and placed in registry with the side edge of the assembly previously completed, which includes the edge 23 of the corresponding pocket and the end 39 of the pair of pieces 21 continuous with the edge 23. and the four layered seam 40 is formed by a concealed line of stitching which corresponds to 29 in Fig. 3. The pieces 21 are now properly adjusted and the finishing line of stitching 42 is applied, after the two,sections are pulled away from each other so that there are no beads or other overlapping portions from one section to the other beyond the first line of stitching. The same operations are performed upon the other pair of pieces 21 to attach the other side panel to the bodice.

The skirt portion of the garment consists, in the form shown in the drawings, of two identical bias cut panels, front panel 43, and back panel 44. These are joined together by tucked or infolded concealed seams illustrated in detail in Fig. 4. The overlapped raw edges of the meeting margins of the panels are folded over and the four layers are secured together by a row of stitching 45' and then tucked and stitched by another row of. stitches 48 passing through five layers of fabric and having the raw edges concealed within the seam. The hem of theskirt is finished by one or two rows of stitching concealing the raw edge of the fabric.

The elastic band l2 whose length is approximately half the length of the upper edge of the back panel-is secured to the upper edge of the back panel midway thereoL The construction of this seam is shown in Fig. 8. The corresponding portion of the upper edge of the back panel is folded upon itself and sewed in the manner shown by row of stitching 41. The hem thus formed is secured to the lower edge of the band I2 by two lines of stitching 48, this stitching operation being preferably so performed, such as by subjecting the band ill to a slight stretch, that the fabric is slightly gathered or puckered.

The skirt is now ready for assembly with the bodice. As a first step in this process the ends of the side panels are folded in and the folded end of one layer of each panel is secured to the adjacent end of the band. The remainder of the upper edge of they skirt is secured to the bodice by infolding the raw lower edges of the front bodice panel and side panels and securing the skirt to one layer of these panels by line of stitching 62. Another line of stitching 49 secures the other layer of the bodice along its infolded edge to the skirt and first layer. This line of stitching 49 is preferably continued up one end of one side panel as shown at 58, thus completing the securement of the elastic band to the side panel, then along the upper edge of the side panel at 5|, along the upper edge of the pockets at 52, along the upper edge of the other side panel at 53 and then downwards on the end edge of the other side panel at 54, thus completing the securement of this end of the band and completing the garment.

It is understood that the loops 58 of the shoulder straps 55 are inserted and secured to the bodice during the first stitching operation that these elements are subjected to.

The present method of manufacture provides a reversible garment of. the type described, all

The garment shown in Figs. 9 and 10 is of the same type in that it also presents a reversible combined brassire and slip, and, like the garment shown in Figs. 1 and 2, it is devoid of all fastenings, has a low back, and by reason of the elastic band I2 the bodice or brassiere portion of the garment fits snugly. The structure of this garment is, however, simplified in that the waist band or yoke 21 is eliminated and in lieu thereof the front panel 60 of the skirt portion is shaped at the top to replace the yoke 21 of the form shown in Fig. 1. The pocket panels E and F are also somewhat simplified in construction in that they are each provided with only one dart 61, for imparting to these panels the desired pocket formation.

These structural differences also necessitate a seam disposed between the plies of one of the adjacent panels and such four layers of edge material are stitched together by a concealed row of stitching. As will appear from the description of the method of fabrication, such concealed row of stitching does not extend the entire length of the seam and falls short of the lower edge of the bodice so that the bodice is, prior to its assembly ,with the skirt, open at its lower edge so as to permit its proper assembly with the skirt by means of an infolded seam presenting a finished appearance on each face. The single plies of adjacent panels are secured together by rows of stitching that extend upwardly from the lower edge of the bodice, and theserows of stitching overlap the row that secures all four layers soas to strengthen the seam and eliminate any weak points in the seam.

The following will'now describe the method of assembling the elements that enter into the present garment. The order of the steps'may be varied by those skilled in the art.

The pocket panels E and F each consist of two plies 62, 63 of the same or similar materials. The pocket formation is imparted to each of these panels by the dart 6|, which is formedeither by providing the blanks 62 and 63 with a slit or with an inverted V-shaped cutout portion. In the present method the plies 62,- 63 in each of the pocket panels are given a preliminary pocket formation by closing up each of the slits or openings therein by a line of stitching 64 which extends from the bottom of the blank upwardly. This line of stitching need not extend to the upper end of the slit or opening and is preferably so applied that the lower part thereof is applied accurately to the line of the seam but at its upper part it may be diverted from the line of the seam toward the raw edge. I

A pair of plies 62, 63 are placed face to face and sewed together along the upper edges (see 3| in Fig. 3). The other pair of plies 62, 63 is similarly treated. Adjacent plies 62 are now sewed together by a line of stitching 66 that extends from the bottom of the seam upwards but preferably this stitching does not quite reach the top of the panels. Adjacent plies 63 are similarly treated. .One pair of plies 62, 63 are. now turned vtion of the dart at each of three levels.

down right side out and disposed between the plies of the other and the four layers of edge material are secured by a row of stitching 61 which extends from the top downwards and overlaps the, two ply stitchings but does not extend to the bottom of the seam, thus leaving the panels free at the bottom to receive the skirt. The four layers of edge material formed by the dart are now secured together by a concealed line of stitching 68 extending from the top of the dart downwardly and leaving the lower portion vun-- secured.

The side panels G comprising two plies l6, 11, are secured together while face to face along the top edge and then secured to the adjacent pocket panel F by the same series of steps as that described for the formation of seam I8, namely first by the securement of the adjacent single plies of the adjacent panels by stitching extendin'g upwardly and then by a row of stitching extending downwardly to within a short distance of the bottom and securing the four layers of edge material. h

The side panel H is secured to the pocket panel E the same way.

The skirt portion 60 is constructed the same way as the skirt portion of Fig. 1 except that the front panel is cut at the top to fit in with the formation of the pocket panels. The elastic band I2 is secured to the back panel in the same manner and the skirt is then secured to the bottom of the bodice to form an infolded concealed seam, by first securing the upper edge ofv the skirt and the edge of one ply of the bodice and then infolding the other ply of the bodice and finishing this scam as shown in Fig. 3. The last line of stitching is continued upwardly on the end of one side panel, thus securing the same to the end of the elastic band, then along the upper edges of the side panel pocket panels and the second side panel and down on the infolded end of the second side panel, thereby securing the same to its end of the elastic band.

The darts are now finished by a line of stitch-' ing 15 which passes through the plies of the pocketsand through the raw edge material.

The Figures 11, 12, and 13 show the construc- These show that stitch 15 extends the entire length of the dart and passes through the plies and the edge material. In the upper region the stitch 68 secures the edge material, in the lower region the stitching 64 secures the edge material in each ply, whereas in the intermediate region stltchings 64 and 68 overlap.

Similarly, Figs. 14, 15, and 16 show the construction of seam 18 and also of the other vertical seams. The upper region of these seams has the stitch 61 which is concealed and secures all four layers of edge material together. In the lower zone separate lines 66 secure the adjacent plies. Whereas in the intermediate zone stitchings 66 and 61 overlap. I claim:

1. The method of fabricating a reversible combined brassier-e and slip in which the brassiere is composed of a pair of two-ply pocket panels, the

blanks thereof each having a pair of slits diverging downwardly from approximately the center thereof, a two-ply waist panel, a pair of two-ply side panels, and anelastic band connecting the ends of theside panels; said method including edges thereof, stitching together the adjacent edges of the two pocket panels, imparting to each pocket panel a pocket formation by first stitching interiorly of each panel the slit nearest the adjacent pocket panel, then stitching interiorly of each panel the slit nearest the side edge, drawing said seams taut and stitching through said panels along a V-shaped line, the stitching including the raw edged material disposed interiorly of the panels; then juxtaposing the two plies of the waist panels over the pocket panels and stitching said plies and panels together along the bottom of said pocket panels, retroverting said waist plies, drawing the same taut and stitching said waist panel through the raw edge material disposed interiorly of said waist panel, stitching one side of each sidepanel to the adjacent side of the pocket and waist panels by one concealed line of stitching and one exposed line of stitching; forming the skirt portion of the garment, stitching an elastic band to the top of the back of the skirt portion; stitching the ends of the band to the ends of the side panels; stitching the remainder of the upper edge of the skirt portion to one inturned ply of the waist panel and side panel, stitching together the skirt portion and lower edges of the waist and side panels, and continuing same line of stitching to finish the upper edges of said pocket and side panels, said last line of stitching being disposed below the first concealed line of stitching and passing through the plies and the raw edge material disposed therebetween.

2. The method ofv fabricating a reversible combined brassiere and slip in which the brassiere is composed of a pair of two-ply pocket panels, a two-ply waist panel, a pair of two-ply side panels, and an elastic band connecting the ends of the side panels; said method including the steps of forming said brassire by associating each pair of plies of the pocket and side panels, securing the upper raw edges thereof bya concealed line of stitching, stitching together the adjacent edges of the two pocket panels, joining the waist panel r to the bottom of the pocket panels by an infolded seam, joining a side edge of each of the side panels to the adjacent side of the pocket and waist panels by an infolded seam; some of said infolded seams being formed by one concealed line of stitching through the raw edge material of the associated four plies, retroverting the last attached panel, drawing it taut against the concealed line of stitching, and forming a second row of stitching through the plies of the last attached panel and through the raw edge material disposed therebetween, said second row of stitching being disposed close to the first row; forming the skirt portion of the garment of bias out front and back panels, stitching an elastic band to the top of the back panel, stitching the ends of the band to the ends of the side panel, securing the remainder of the upper edge of the skirt portion to the lower edge of the waist and side panels-by an infolded seam and forming a row of stitches along the upper edge of the side and pocket panels, said last named row passing through the plies of the panels and through the raw edge material disposed therebetween and spaced downwardly from the concealed line of stitching along said edges.

3. A combination womans undergarment having a skirt portion and a brassiere portion; said brassiere portion being formed of a pair of twoply panels formed into breast receiving pockets, and a pair of two-ply side panels each secured to the sides of said pocket panels; the seams formed by such securements each having all raw edge material of the adjacent panels disposed between the plies of one panel, each seam also containing a concealed row of stitching disposed immediately at the line joining the adjacent panels, and an exposed line of stitching passing through one panel and through the edge material disposed interiorly thereof; the skirt portion being composed of front and back bias cut panels, the back panel having a band of elastic attached to its upper edge, said band being secured to the ends of'the side panels, the remainder of the upper edge of the skirt portion being secured to the lower edge of the brassi're portion by an infolded seam having a finished appearance on both surfaces.

4. A reversible womans undergarment of the type described, having a plurality of two-ply panels secured to each other and having a seam conof stitching being spaced from the concealed row of stitching inwardly of the panel and serving to maintain the ply material between said rows of stitching in taut and flattened condition.

5. A combination womans undergarment having a skirt portion and a brassiere portion; said brassiere portion being formed of a pair of twoply panels formed into breast receiving pockets, and a pair of two-ply side panels each secured to the sides of said pocket panels; the seams formed by such securements each having all raw edge material of the adjacent panels disposed between the plies of one panel, each seam also containing a concealed row of stitching disposed immediately at the line joining the adjacent panels and securing the four layers of raw edge material, the skirt portion being composed of front and back bias cut panels, the back panel having a band of elastic attached to its upper edge, said band being secured to the ends of the side panels, the remainder of the upper edge of the skirt portion being secured to the lower edge' of the brassiere portion by an infolded seam having a finished appearance on both surfaces.

6. A reversible combined brassiere and slip having a pair of two-ply panels formed into breast receiving pockets, a pair of side panels secured to the sides of said pocket panels, the seams formed by the securements each having all raw edge material of adjacent panels disposed between the plies of one panel, each seam also having concealed stitching securing said raw edge material together; the said side panels tapering downwardly'away from the pocket panels, an elastic band secured at each end to the ends of the side panels, and a skirt portion secured thereto.

'7. The method of fabricating a reversible combined brassiere and slip in whichthe brassiere.

further securing the adjacent panels by a concealed row of stitching passing through the four layers of raw edge material and extending from the top thereof downwardly to a point substantially above the bottom of the panel; forming the skirt portion, attaching the elastic band to the top of the back of the skirt portion, and securing the skirt to the brassiere portion.

8. A combination womans undergarment having a skirt portion and a brassiere portion; said brassiere portion formed of a plurality of two-ply panels and comprising a pair of front panels having seamed darts forming the panels into breast receiving pockets, said front panels being seamed to each other, a diaphragm panel seamed to the lower edges of the front panels, a pair of side panels seamed to the sides of said front and diaing a skirt portion and a brassire portion; said brassiere portion being formed of a plurality of two-ply panels and comprising a pair of front panels each having adjoining edges seamed to each other along the midline of the chest and having side edges substantially longer than the edges in the midline of the chest, said panels each also having seamed darts forming the panels into breast receiving pockets, the seams at said darts each comprising a concealed row of stitching passing through the four layers of raw edge material and having such raw edge material disposed between the plies of the material and on the side of the seam directed away from the midline of the chest; said brassiere portion further comprising a pair of two-ply side panels having relatively long side edges seamed to and of the same length as the side edges of said front panels, said side panels having relatively short vertical ledges at the opposite end; said skirt portion having an upwardly pointed top in the front seamed to the lower edges of the .said front panels by an edges of said side panels by infolded seams.

DAVID L. FINE.

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