US1544012A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

E. A. KING June 30, 1925.

C OLLAR Filed OCb. l0, 1922 Patented June 30, 1925;.

UNITED STATES tatami PATENT oFFicE.

EDWARD A. KING, F DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 LION' COLLARS &

SHIRTS, INU., OF TROY, NEW YORK, A. CORPORATION 0F NEW YORK.

contar.

Application filed October 10, 1932. Serial No. 593,501.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, EDWARD A. KING,

a citizen of the United States, residing at Dorchester, in the county of Suolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Collars, of which the following is a speciiication, reference being had therein to the accompanylng drawings.

My invention relates particularly to col lars of the folded-over type and especially to soft or unstarched collars; it is also applicable, however, to collars that are 1ntended to be starched.

Its principal object is to provide a collar that can be made with minimum waste of material and by a minimum number of operations, and to these ends it contemplates the production of the neck-band from a cloth W or cloths woven of exactly the proper width to permit the selvage of the cloth or cloths (e. g. the edges as finished in the cloth-constructing processes to prevent unravelling) to form the upper and lower edges of the 2% neck-band. rllhis minimizes waste in cutting the material, renders it unnecessary to trim and turn' the long upper and lower edges of the neck-band, permits a number of the manufacturing operations to be cart@ ried on simultaneously, and secures other advantages. rlhe narrow cloth may be woven with its longitudinal axis slightly curved, if desired, to conform the collar to the natural curve of the neck and may be made of suitable material and weave to meet the current fashions and the fancies of the wearers, and the demands of the trade. A desirable button-hole arrangement is also illustrated in the accompanying drawings, 430 but is not essential to the present invention; this arrangement of the button-holes is the subject of a copending application. Other objects of the present invention will appear hereafter.

ln the accompanying drawing, Fig. 1 is a perspective of a folded-over colar made in accordance with my invention.

Fig. 2 is an elevation of the same collar, a portion being broken away to show the construction.

Fig. 3 is a cross section of the collar of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a similar cross section of a collar in which the neck-band is made of but one layer of fabric.

ln the drawings illustrating my invention, the collar comprises a neck-band portion 7 and a top or folded-'over portion 8, the band having the end extensions 9 and 10, with the usual button-holes 11 and 12, and a button-hole 13 at the back of the band, which constitute the ordinary means for fastening the collar to the shirt.

rlhe neck-band 7 is made of one or more layers of cloth 14 woven of exactly such a width that the selvaged edges of the cloth form the longitudinal or long top and bottom edges 15 of the neck-band, i. e., the width of the cloth as woven is exactly equal to the` width of the blank 14 (or each blank) composing the neck-band. ln the manufacture of this collar, therefore, it is not necessary that the bottom edges 15 and the upper long edges of the neck-band be turned in or otherwise inishedfor the finish of the selvaged edges of the narrow cloth 14, which is the direct result of the weaving processes, is sufcient nish for the neckband. The ends of the neck-band are finished, however, in any suitable manner, say by turning in and sewing as shown, since the cutting of the narrow cloth into neckband lengths leaves these edges rough. lif a collar is desired in which the neck-band is slightly curved along its longitudinal axis 24C, as shown in Fig. 2, to conform it to the neck of the wearer, the narrow cloth is woven on this curve. The cloth may be of any suitable or desirable material and weave.

. The top or folded-over portion 8 of the collar is made of any suitable material and weave and may be of one or more thicknesses of fabric.

When two or more separate layers are used in the folded-over portion 8 the edges thereof may be finished by inturning at the ends and bottom of the fold-over, and sewn as represented by the line or lines of stitching 18. For soft collars, however, I pre- 100 fer to use a single layer of cloth for the foldover and finish its raw end and bottom edges by binding with a thin fabric 20 stitched thereon and then inturning and securing to the body of the fold-over by the stitching 105 18 (Figs. 3 and 4). Preferably the binding 20 is also a tape or cloth woven of exactly the desired width, so as to have two selvaged edges, and after this has been sewn to the collar edge and the latter turned in, one of No the stitching rows 18 may be made to coincide with the binding stitching and thus the latter is concealed. The use of tape 20 for this bindin fabric not only renders inturning of the inding unnecessary and reduces the manufacturing cost, but also it permits theuse of a single binding strip -for thev entire length of the fold-over without unduly increasing the cost, and thus avoids the presence ofseams joining the customary short length of bias-cut binding material and the fraying and wear at the seams joining the short lengths, which is detrimental to the a pearance of collars as heretofore common y constructed. `The fold-over 8 may be secured to the neck-band in any suitable manner. When but a single cloth 14 is used for theneck-band (Fig. 4) I secure'the upper edge ofthe fold-over to the neck-band cloth by a double row of stitching 22, as shown in that re; preferably the fold-over is v then cut rom a cloth that provides a selvage at the edge 23, softhat inturning or other nishing of this edge is avoided. In the preferred construction in which the neckband is formed of two layers of cloth (see Fig. 3) the edge 23 of the fold-over is inserted between the upper edges of the neckband cloth and secured by double stitching 22. I also customarily employ a middle line of stitching, as indicated at 24.

The illustrated arrangement and provision of additional button-holes 26 and 27 is the subject of the copending application above referred to and forms no part of the present invention.

It will be observed that my present invention materially reduces the amount of fabric wasted in the course of manufacture; no fabric is wasted in making the neck-bands from cloths woven of the same widths as the neck-band blanks, except a little at the ends. Furthermore, the use of a fabric woven so narrow that its selvages form the upper and lower edges of the neck-band, does away entirely with one of the regular steps in the customary collar-making processes, namely the step of inturning or infolding the long upper and lower ed es of the pieces forming the neck-band 1n order to provide a non-raveling finish for those edges. Other advantages also followfrom my invention as will be understood by those skilled in the customary collar-making art. A particularly important characteristic of my invention however isthe thinness of the crease,

ridge or fold at the top of the collar. By using two layers of fabric in the band and inserting the top or fold-over member between them as illustrated in Fig. 3, using the natural selvage of the cloth at the uper edge of the band for finish, I have ound that it is possible to employ such heavy fabric as to make an acceptable soft collar, that is to say, one that will remain erect and smooth in use without the aid of considerable starch, unlike the ordinary starched collar, and at the same time 'one that possesses such a narrow crease or ridge at lts upper edge as to be generally acceptable to the trade and the customer. The provision of selvage at the upper edge only of the band accomplishes this purpose.

It will be understood that the illustrated and described embodiments of my invention are representative, and that my invention is not limited thereto except as-hereinafter appears in the claims.

What I claim is 1. A folded-over collar having a neckband comprising cloth having woven selvages and which is woven of the same width as a band blank so that the said selvages of the cloth form upper and lower edges of the neck-band.

2. A folded-over collar having a neckband made from cloth having its edges finished in the cloth-constructing processes and'which is Woven of eXactl such width that theY said selvages of the o oth form the longitudinal edges of theneck-band.

3. A folded-over collar having a neckband made from cloth having woven selvages and which is woven of such width that its, said selvages form upper and lower edges of the neck-band, said cloth being constructed to have a curve corresponding tothe curve in the finished collar.

4. A folded-over collar having a neckband made up of two pieces' of cloth each of which has woven selvages and is wovenl of such a width that its said-selvages form upper and lower edges of the neck-band, and a folded-over portion secured to said neckband between said pieces of narrow cloth.

5. A folded-over collar having a neckband made up of two pieces of cloth each of which has woven selva es and is woven of such a width that its said selvages form upper and lower edges of the neck-band, and which are woven on a curve corresponding to the curve in the finished collar, and a folded-over portion secured to said neckband between said pieces of narrow cloth.

6. A folded-over collar comprising a neckband made of cloth having woven selvages and which is woven of such a width that its said selvages form the upper and lower edges of the neck-band, and a folded-over portion having a woven selvage edge secured to said ,neck-band. y 7. A collar comprising a neck-band made of cloth having woven selvages and which is woven of a width corresponding to the width of the neck-band so that the said selvage edges of said cloth form the long upper and lower edges of the neck-band, and a separate fold-over attached to the neck-band.

8. A collar consisting of a band portion and a top or fold-over portion, the band portion comprising two separate layers of fabric joined together, the upper edges of said layers being selvage edges of substantially the same thickness as the body of the fabric and said top portion being inserted and secured between said selvage edges.

9. A collar consisting of a, band portion and a top or fold-over portion, the band portion comprising two separate layers of fabric 10 the upper edges of which are selvages produced in the cloth constructing processes and said selvages providing the finish for the upper edge of the band, the said top portion being inserted between the said layers of fabric of the bend, and the top and band fabrics being secured together.

In witness whereof, I hereunto set my hand this ninth day of October, 1922.

EDWARD A. KTNG

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