US2727243A - Collars for garments - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 20, 1955 P. c. MACRIDES COLLARS FOR GARMENTS Filed Aug. 24, 1953 FIG.

FlGIG FIG.8 FIG.9 FIG.IO FIG.II

FIGA FlG.5 FIG.6

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INVENTOR. PHILIP C. MACRlDES @IJ El United States Patent O COLLARS FR GARM'ENTS Philip C. Macrides, Troy, N. Y., assigner to luett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application August 24, 1953, Serial No.` 376,051

6 Claims. (Cl. 1-1.1)

This invention relates to collars for garments, whether detachably fastened on the garment or permanently attached thereto. More particularly the invention relates to a type of collar widely used on mens shirts, which is commonly known as a one-piece type of collar. This is a continuation-.impart of my prior but copending application S. N. l79,6l9 tiled August i6, 1950, which latter was a. continuation in part of a coepending application S. N. 147,047, tiled March l, 1950. These applications are now abandoned.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved one-piece type of collar for garments, which will be especially comfortable to the wearer; which will require a minimum number of manufacturing operations, which will utilize a minimum number of separate parts; which will present a smooth appearance when laundered and ironed; with which a definite fold line may be established easily and quickly for guidance in the normal folding of the collar; with which the danger of overlapping parts of the interliner becoming deformed is substantially eliminated; and which will be relatively simple, practical and inexpensive.

Another object o1?` the invention is to provide anim proved one-piece type of collar for garments of the socalled fused type, in which the front and back plies and the interliner, in the cape part ofthe collar, are fused or bonded together to eliminate the use of starch; with which a more permanent and secure bond is secured between the intcrliner and the front and back plies along the fold line extending to and including approximately the ent-ire area of overlap of the interliner sections; with which blistering along the fold line will be substantially reduced so that a collary of this type will undergo a much larger number of launderings before material blistering occurs.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent from the following description of some embodiments of the inve-ntion, and the novel features will be hereinafter pointed out in connection with the appended claims.

ln the accompanying drawing:

Fig. l is a face elevation of the collar part of a shirt before itl is folded, which is constructed in accordance with this invention, portions being broken away to show Certain interior details of construct-ion;

Fig.A 2; is a face elevation of one end of a blank of the cape part of the lining employed in the col-lar of Fig. l, but before it is incorporated in the collar;

Fig.V 3 is a face elevation ot" one end of the section of the interliner used in the neckband part otthe collar in accordance with this invention, before it is incorporated inthe collar;

Fig. 4 is a transverse, sectional elevation through the interliner of the collar, representing an intermediate step in the formation of the collar in accordance with this invention;

Fig. 5 is a transverse, sectional elevation through the collar at a Subsequent and intermediate step in its manufacture in accordance with this invention;

Fig` 6 is a transverse, sectional elevation of the same 2,727,243 Patented Dec. 20, 1955 ICC collar after the parts shown in Fig. 5 have been turned and further stitched together, but with the collar inverted from the position shown in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a Similar transverse., sectional elevation of part of the collar shown in Fig. 6, but after the collar is folded;

Fig. 8 is a schematic diagram of the parts of the collar shown in Figs. l to 6, as they would appear in transverse, sectional elevation, illustrating, in an exaggerated manner, the relative relationship of the various parts;

Fig. 9 is a similar diagram illustrating a slight .modification thereof which is useful in making a fused collar;

Fig. 10 is a similar diagram in which the neckband section of the interliner is folded back upon itself, .and illustrates another embodiment of the invention;

Fig. 11 is another diagram similar to Fig. 10, but illus trating a modification thereof, in which the second line of stitching passes through the superposed layers of the intel1 liner and the back or rear ply only.

Fig. 12 is a taee, elevation of a collar also constructed in accordance with the invention, but employing a diff ferent style of neckband such as are often used on sports, wear and casual Wear shirts;

Fig., t3 is an elevation of one end of the neeltband secf tion of the interliner used in the. collar shown in Fig. l2;

Fig. 1'4 is an elevation of one end of the cape section of the interliner used in the collar shown in Fig. l2;

Fig. l5 is a diagram illustrating a transverse sectional elevation through the collar shown in. Fig. l2 Where the section was taken aproximately along the line l5f=15 of Fig. 12; and

Fig. 16 is a sectional elevation generally similar to Fig. 4 but illustrating a modilication thereof;

Fig. 17 is a sectional elevation generally similar to Fig. 5 but illustrating a modification thereof;

Fig. 18 is a sectional elevation generally similar to Fig. 6 but illustrating a modication, thereof', and

Fig. 19 is a sectional elevation generally similar to Fig. 7 but illustrating a modification thereof.

Considering rst the. embodiment of the invention illus trated' in Figs. l to 8 inclusive, the collar is of the type employed on mens shirts, and includes a neck'oand part 1 and a fold over or cape part 2. This collar is formed of a face ply 3 and a rear or back ply 4, which are disposed in a face to face relation with an iuterliner 5 dis posed between, and substantially coextensive with, the cape and ncckband portions of the Collar. To this SX tent, there is nothing new in this type of collar. The intere liner 5, however, is formed of two Sections. 6 and 7 which are disposed approximately edge to. edge alongI the junction between the cape and neckband portions of the. collab, but in somewhat overlapping relation. The section 6 iS disposed between the plies 3 and 4 in the portion repre.-q sentmg the cape part of the collar, and the, section 'l is disposed between the plies` 3 and i in the portion representing the neckband part of the collar. Theoverlap be tween the sections 6 and 7 extends. for substantially the length of the collar between the ends thereof along the line of fold.

Une of the interliner sections has its marginal edge or zone 8 which overlaps with the other section, folded back upon itself between the overlapping areas of the sections, as shown more Clearly in Figs. 4 to 8 inclusive. In this particular example of the invention, it isthe nterline-t section 6 which is within the cape part of the collar that is folded back upon itself between the overlappingA areas, and which provides a narrow band or area-along .the area of overlap that has three superposed layers of interliner fabric. All of these three. superposed layers of the interliner along the. area or zone of overlap between the interliner sections are stitched together by a line 0f stitchingr 8 separately from the face and back plies of the col'- lar. This stitching is applied to the interliner sections before the interliner is incorporated in the collar between the face and back plies 3 and 4.

The folding under of the overlapping edge of the section 6 is performed concurrently with the stitching together of the superposed layers by stitching 9. This is usually performed by running an edge portion of the section 6 through a folder which is attached to a sewing machine, which folds back the edge of that interliner section 6 as it moves into stitching position with the section 7, with the folded back edge disposed in face to face relation with the section 7. Thus one operation serves to fold the edge of the section 6 back between the overlapping layers and also stitch them together. This folding and stitching operation serves to hold the superposed layers in at, face to face relation so that no separate ironing is required of the seam so formed.

In this particular embodiment of the invention, the free edge 10 of the marginal strip 8 of section 6 is disposed approximately along the adjacent edge of section 7, and both of them are disposed approximately along the desired line of fold of the collar, when the cape or top part of the collar is folded over upon the neckband part. The line of stitching 9 is disposed to extend along and in close proximity to the fold line 8a where the marginal edge zone 8 is folded back upon section 6.

The interliner 5, so formed, is then assembled along one face of the face ply 3, as shown in Fig. 5, with the section 6 abutting the ply 3 and the section 7 spaced slightly from the ply 3 as shown in Fig. 5. The interliner and the plies 3 and 4 are then stitched together by a line of stitching 11 as -shown in Fig. 5.

The collar, shown in Fig. 5, is then turned so as to bring the plies 3 and 4 on the exterior, and the interliner 5 between the plies 3 and 4, as shown in Fig. 6. The plies 3 and 4 and the interliner are then stitched together near the stitching 11 by an additional line of stitching 12. The plies 3 and 4 and the interliner section are also stitched together with a line of stitching 16 which extends through all three superposed layers of the interliner at the area of overlap, and also along the area of overlap, approximately equidistant from the line of stitching 9, but spaced well therefrom, preferably 1A: inch or more from the line of stitching 9. This brings the line of stitching 16 along and in proximity to the turned back edge and the adjacent edge of the overlapping part of section 7. This has an important function in that the stitching 16 confines together all of the three superposed layers of the interliner sections at the areas of overlap, so that the turned back edge 10 of section 5 and the upper edge of section 7 can not be locally turned on the stitching 9 into rolled or other deformed or folded positions which would interfere with the at face to face engagement of the plies 3 and 4 and the interliner.

Unless the interliner layers at the area of overlap are confined in this manner, the handling of the collar might often result in the interliner layers at the overlap being locally rolled or distorted into positions which would disturb their at condition. In the case of fused collars this might interfere with proper fusing of the superposed layers. The lines of stitching 9 and 16 provide between them in the area of overlap of the interliner sections, a strip or band of the superposed layers of the interliner which is a relatively stiffer zone or area, an edge of which serves as a guide to one when folding the collar along one margin of the area of overlap. Unless all of the interliner sections are stitched together in their overlapping layers along or close to both margins of the area of overlap, there would not be stiffness or resistance to flexing of the interliner about the stitching 9 which would make it dicult to nd the line of fold.

When a collar of this type is of the fused type, it is common practice to make the interliner section 6, which is of woven fabric, from yarns some of which are of cellulose acetate spaced apart by yarns of other materials, such as cotton, so that when the plies are subjected to a fusing operation, the cellulose acetate yarns of the interliner section 6 will adhere or bond to both the front and rear plies 3 and 4 in the cape part of the collar and give a flexible stiffness which eliminates the necessity for the use of starch in the collar. It has been found that in the fused type of collars, the stitching 16 which passes through both plies 3 and 4 as well as the superposed layers of the interliner, holds all of the layers of the collar along the fold line so firmly in contact with each other that maximum bonding occurs between the interliner section 6 and the plies 3 and 4. The use of this stitching 16 has, in actual practice, been found to increase by more than three fold, the number of standard lauuderings to which such a fused collar may be subjected before any material blistering occurs along the line of fold. This is in comparison with collars that are identical except that the stitching 16 did not pass through the face ply 3.

The stitching 16, passing through all the layers of the fused collar, therefore does more than merely give a stilf area along the overlaping zones of the interliner, and results in a more elective bond between the interliner and the face plies 3 and 4. In some cases, a resin-coated fabric may be used as an interliner section 6, and this resin coating may be caused to bond together the layers of the collar in the cape portion. It will be noted further that the line of fold of the collar is along the upper margin of the superposed layers of the interliner, and thus the section 6 of the interliner extends below the line 0f fold, so that the fused or bonded area will extend below the line of fold into the upper marginal edge of the neckband portion of the collar. This also brings thc line of stitching 16 below the line of fold so that it is not visible when the collar is being worn.

In Fig. 9 I have illustrated, a slight modification which is particularly useful in connection with fused collars. In this example the folded back edge 8 of the interliner section 6 extends backwardly slightly beyond the adjacent edge of the section 7 of the interliner. This gives a little extra resinous material along the upper edge of the interliner section 7 which can bond to the rear ply 4. It also results in a slightly less abrupt change in the position of the rear ply 4 as it is bonded to the interliner section 6. This also aids in securing a more effective bond for a line of fusion along the line of fold, which reduces the tendency of the collar to blister when laundered.

In Fig. 10 the construction is similar to that in Fig. 8, except that the overlapping edge of the interliner section 7 is the one which is folded back upon itself, instead of the upper section 6. The construction of Fig. l0 is particularly useful in connection with the socalled soft collars in which the interliner is not bonded or fused to the plies 3 and 4.

In Fig. ll, the construction is similar to that shown in Fig. 10 except that the line of stitching 16 passes only through the three superposed layers and the rear ply 4. It does not pass through the face ply 3. This line of stitching passes through the rear ply 4 in order that, in soft collars, the rear ply 4 will not sag away from the interliner when the collar is folded.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in Figs. 12 to 15 inclusive, the collar illustrated is of the type commonly used in sportswear shirts, and shirts which are intended to have the collar in either a normal, closed position or somewhat open at the neck. They are often called casual shirts. In this embodiment of the invention, similar parts are indicated by similar reference numerals, but the neckband and cape portions of the collar are of a somewhat different shape. The interliner sections are connected together in the same manner as they were in the collars shown in Figs. l to 1l. As an example, since this type of collar is commonly of the soft collar type, there is seldom, if any, fusing or bonding of the interliner section 6 to the plies 3 and 4.

In such cases, the upper edge of the lower section `7 of the interliner can be turned back upon itself between the interliner sections at the. area of overlap, as shown in Fig,-V In soft collars. it is only necessary that the stitching 16 pass through the superposed layers of the interliner at the area of overlap and the rear Ply 4 of the collar.

The collar shown in Figs. 1 6 to 19 inclusive is identical withk that shown in Figs. 1l to 1,5, except that a flexibleI cord 11 is enclosed in the fold formed by turning back the marginal edge 8 upon the neckband portion 1,7; that is, the oord 17 is disposed within the fold along, the line 8u and is confined snugly within this folded edge by the stitching 9. This cord 17 is, rela: tively small in diameter, and. is usually somewhat thicker than the thickness of the interliner sections. It serves to accentuate the ,fold line of. the collar which would be along the line Str. This type of collar construction is useful in making either soft or fused collars, such as are used on business shirts, and also for making collars for sport shirts, where the cord facilitates the folding of the collar along a desired fold line. In this emi-lodi ment of the invention the section 6 whichk is within the cape. portion, in the case of a soft collar, may be 0f the saine kind ci material as the section 7 that is within the neckband portion of they collar, but if the collar is to be of the fused type, then the section 6 of the interliner ,isV made of a material which may be fused to the front and back plies. of the collar as explained in connection with Figs- 1 to l5.

In all embodiments of the invention the lines of stitching 9 and 16 are spaced well apart, such as along and close to the opposite margins of the area of over,- lap of the interliner sections, by at least` 1/a inch so as, to forni a relatively stiff elongated area in the interliner in the area of overlap. The llPPer margin of this stili area serves as a guide in locating the line on which to fold. the collar. The. two spacedv apart lines otl stitching 9 and 1,6., prevent the folded. back edge. 10 of the lower section 'I or the lower edge of the upper section 6 from ilexing about the stitching 9 into rolled or diS- torted positionsl which mightv make it diflicnlt to locate the line of fold of the collar, and which would interfere with the smooth appearance when the collar is ironed or pressed after laundering or cleaning. It will be observed that by thus spacing apart the lines of stitching 9 and 16, it is unnecessary to provide on the interliner any additional strips of stiff fabric or other material to give this stillness along the area of overlap and to prevent the superposed layers from rolling or becoming distorted in local areas.

It will be noted that only a relatively small number of steps or operations are required to make the interliner and collar in accordance with this invention. Outside of cutting the blanks, the operations are:

l. Sewing together by stitching 9, the overlapping sections of the interliner and concurrently folding the overlapping edge of one of the sections back between the sections as the overlapping sections move beneath the sewing needle.

2. Placing the interliner alongside the front and back plies and stitching them together by stitching 11, along those margins that are not to be attached to the shirt.

3. Turning the collar and stitching together the superposed layers by stitching 12.

4. Stitching together, by stitching 16, the superposed layers of the interliner at the area of overlap, the back ply 4 and, where desired, the face ply 3. The stitching 12 is common in collars and is not peculiar or essential to this new construction.

In the foregoing description of the invention, the process of fusing collars has not been explained, because that is common in the collar industry and is in no way part of the present invention, except to the extent indicated and described. Regardless of whether or not the collar is of; the fused type, the neckband is not, Particip larly stift' and will always be comfortable to the wearer. There are relatively few operations required in making this new collar and, therefore, the cost of manufacture is very low.

It will be understood that various changes in the cletails, materials, and arrangementl or' parts, which have been herein described and illustrated in order to. ex` plain the nature of the invention, may be made by those skilled in the art within the principle and scope of the invention, as expressed in the appended claims,

I claim:

l. A oney piece type of collar comprising one piece back and face. plies in tace to face relation and forming the neckband and cape portions ef the collar, and an interliner between and approximately tro-extensive with. said plies, said interliner being formed of two sections, one section within the. neckband portion of the collet and the other within the cape portion ot the collar and extending over and into and overlapping with the neckband portion adjacent the line of fold of the collar,i one of the. sections having its overlapping edge portion folded back upon itself between the overlapping edgev portions of the Sections but with thel sections still overlapping, to provide atv least three superposed layers of the interliner at the area of overlap, said face and back plies directly bearing against the outer layers of said superposed intere liner layers. including the area of overlap and two parallol lines 0f Stitching passing through all of said superposed layers of said interliner along and close to opposite edges of said area of overlap, spaced well apart and providing between the lines of stitching, a relatively stili zone of the interliner of substantial width corresponding approximately to. said area of overlap, which lies adjacent the line of fold of the collar, to aid in nding the line oifold.

Z. A one. piece type of collar comprising one. Piece back and face plies in face to face relation, and an intel'1 liner between, and. approximately coextensive with said plies, Seidv interliner being formed of two sections, one section within the neckband portion of the collar and the other section within the` cape portion of the collar.- and extending over and. into, and overlapping with the neckhand portion adjacent the line of fold of the collar, one of the sections having its overlapping edge. folded back upon itself between the overlapping edges of the sections, but with the sections still overlapping, l0 Provide atleast three superposed layers of thel interliner at the area of overlap, a line of stitching firmly attaching together all of said superposed layers of said interliner separately from the back and face plies of the collar, and running parallel and close to the fold in the folded edge of said one of said sections at the area of overlap, said face and back plies directly bearing against the outer layers of said superposed interliner layers including the area of overlap, and an additional line of stitching attaching together all of said superposed interliner layers and the back ply and parallel to said rst line of stitching, and close to the marginal edge of said overlap opposite from said first line of stitching.

3. A one piece type of collar comprising one piece back and face plies in face to face relation and forming the neckband and cape portions of the collar, and an interliner between and approximately co-extensive with said plies, said interliner being formed of two sections, one section within the neckband portion of the collar, and the other within the cape portion of the collar and extending over and into and overlapping with the neckband portion adjacent the line of fold of the collar, one of the sections having its overlapping edge portion folded back upon itself between the overlapping edge portions of the sec tions but with the sections still overlapping, to provide at least three superposed layers of the interliner at the area of overlap, said face and back plies directly bearing against the outer layers of said superposed interliner layers including the area of overlap, and two parallel lines of stitching passing through all of said superposed layers of said interliner along and close to opposite edges of said area of overlap, spaced well apart and providing between the lines of stitching a relatively stiff zone of the interliner of substantial width corresponding approximately to said area of overlap, which lies adjacent the line of fold of the collar, to aid in finding the line of fold, said interliner section within the cape portion of the collar carrying a plastic bonding agent, bonding it to said layers and plies directly bearing against it, including the face ply over approximately the entire area of overlap.

4. In a one piece type of collar, a pair of external, onepiece fabric plies disposed in face to face relation and forming the neckband and cape portions of the collar, and each ply approximately coextensive with the neckband and cape portions of the collar, and an interliner fabric ply disposed between and substantially coextensive with said external plies, and formed of two sections one within the neckband portion and the other Within the cape portion, and with their edge portions in overlapping relation at approximately the junction between the cape and neckband portions of the collar, the section of the interliner within the portion of the collar representing the neckband portion having its overlapping edge portion folded upon itself lengthwise but still maintaining the overlapping of the interliner sections and with its line of fold approximately bordering the desired line of fold of the collar, a cxible cor-d enclosed within and extending along and close to the fold of said folded edge, a line of stitching passing through all of said superposed layers of the interliner in close proximity to the cord, to confine the cord in the fold, and a second line of stitching through the same layers of the interliner adjacent the opposite edge of the area of overlap.

5. In a one-piece type of collar, a pair of external, onepiece fabric plies disposed in face to face relation and forming the neckband and cape portions of the collar, and each ply approximately coextensive with the neckband and cape portions of the collar, an interliner fabric ply disposed between and substantially coextensive with 4said external plies, and formed of two sections one within the neckband portion and the other within the cape portion, and with their edge portions in overlapping relation at approximately the junction between the cape and neckband portions of the collar, one of said sections having its overlapping edge portion folded upon itself with its line of fold approximately coincident with the desired line of fold of the collar, the three plies of said overlapping edges of the interliner being directly secured together, separately from the external plies, but with the outer ones of such connected three plies directly bearing against the adjacent external plies, a flexible cord enclosed and conlined within and close to the fold of said folded edge of the interliner, a line of stitching passing through all of said superposed layers of the interliner in close proximity to the cord, to confine the cord in the fold, and a second line of stitching through the same layers of the interliner adjacent the opposite edge of the area of overlap.

6. A one-piece type of collar comprising a back ply and face ply disposed in face to face relation and forming the neckband and cape portions of the collar and each ply approximately coextensive with the neckband and cape portions of the collar and secured together along their margins, an interliner disposed between and substantially coextensive with said back and face plies and secured thereto along the margins of the collar, said interliner being formed of two sections meeting with their edge portions in overlapping relation and with one section in the necltband portion of the collar and the other in the cape portion of the collar but extending over into the neckband portion, one of the sections of said interliner being folded upon itself along its overlapping margin with its upper line of fold substantially coincident with the desired line of fold between said neckband and cape portions of the collar to provide three superposed layers of the interliner approximately bordering the upper edge of the neckband portion of the collar, a line of stitching firmly attaching together all of said superposed layers of the interliner separately from the balance of the collar, said front and back plies directly bearing against the exposed faces of the outer layers of said superposed interliner layers, and an additional line of stitching attaching together all of said superposed interliner layers, and the back ply only, said front ply, in its area representing the neckband portion of the collar below said area of overlap, being unattached to said interliner, and in the balance of its area including the cape portion of the collar, being adhesively secured to the plies overlying it across its surface area including the face ply at the area of overlap.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS

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