CN103960787A - Technology for making double-layer knitted inner container thermal shirt - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a technology for making a double-layer knitted inner container thermal shirt. The technology comprises the steps of material selection, material arrangement, cutting, sewing, finished product detection and the like. The mode of combining and sewing an inner layer and an outer layer and the mode of separating sewing are adopted in the sewing process. The technological steps and specific parameters of the double-layer knitted inner container thermal shirt are specifically specified in detail, meanwhile, in the making technology, manual operation and a machine are combined together, the making and producing efficiency of the shirt is guaranteed, meanwhile, the quality of the shirt is further guaranteed, the shirt made according to the technical scheme is superior in quality and style, the wearing effect is high in grade, and the shirt is a high-grade double-layer thermal shirt. The mode of combining and sewing the inner layer and the outer layer and the mode of separating sewing are adopted, the method is diversified, and the situation that after the finished shirt is washed, the shirt is wrinkled, the inner container of the shirt is exposed, or interlayer cotton is reduced and tightened, and the overall appearance of a wearer is influenced is avoided.

Description

A kind of manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of manufacture craft of shirt, be specifically related to a kind of manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, belong to field of textiles.

Background technology

Clothing, food, lodging and transportion--basic necessities of life are that people live must obligato part, along with social progress, the raising of people's economic capability, people are also more and more higher to the requirement of the aspect of wearing the clothes, quality requirement to clothes is also more and more higher, in shirt is also included within naturally as a kind of in clothes.

Spring, summer, autumn and winter, shirt is the dress ornament of maximum people's dresses, shirt design simplicity generosity, and technique is simple, can personalized arrange in pairs or groups, no matter wear or wear the makings that can show fashion outward in being.When temperature is lower, conventionally need to wear the Shirt with warm keeping filler of double-layer inner containers, Shirt with warm keeping filler generally includes face and inner bag, the item that needs consideration for conventional shirt and note in manufacturing process is more, washing washing shrinkage problem such as face and inner bag, the flat warming problem very again of shirt dress, inner bag exposes problem etc.

The quantity of shirt, pattern are various in the market, but quality is very different, and high-quality, high-end, high-grade shirt relatively lack.Such as not only warming pattern but also the very straight high-grade shirt that has a type also relatively lack at present, the quality of shirt, is not only embodied in above the difference of its fabric, is also embodied in above it does manual work.

But, also the manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler is not had to detailed, clear and definite regulation and explanation at present.

Summary of the invention

goal of the invention:the object of the invention is for defect of the prior art, a kind of manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler is provided.

technical scheme:for achieving the above object, the present invention has taked following technical scheme:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric; Conventionally the warming internal material of double-layer inner containers is generally used lamb wool, knitting material, double-deck shirt material, knitting folder cotton, shirt feed collet cotton etc., and to carry out a good knitting inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler must accurately grasp shirt fabric face and knitting folder cotton washing shrinkage, the cotton inner bag of knitting folder adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, so warming effect of very playing again of putting down of not losing shirt when shirt is worn;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., then lining is spread with flatiron and is scalded behind jail and be placed on the sticky machine of lining and dry, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170-175 ℃, pressure is 3.0-3.6kg/ ㎡, time 13-17 second;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made and in process, be divided into inside and outside two-layer merging and make and the inside and outside double-layer separate two kinds of methods of system of cracking, specific as follows:

(a) face, inner bag merging are made and are specially:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, then inside and outside two-layer four limits are stepped on fixing after in dress door towel bar;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after repairing gesture with model after complex potential inside and outside two-layer stepping on together with back four limits be fixed into a conventional shirt;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; Take to merge and make the folder cotton shirt of making and tuck inside the sleeve and copy side seam on can be directly, can also play not being prone to uneven clothes after ready-made clothes washing or the person of wearing personnel have uncomfortable sensation simultaneously;

(b) the inside and outside double-layer separate system of cracking is specially:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture; Inside in the time of like this can water-proof washing, fabric difference causes and is not convinced or wrinkling;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, repaiied and with outer field shirt, separately made afterwards;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after first skin being made after complex potential and bound off with five lines at inner bag, the little 2CM of climbing then at shoulder seam place and place, oxter, line being run business into particular one grows inside and outside two-layer fabric is fixed; So not being convinced or uncomfortable sensation of when wearer wears, internal layer being dragged outward that just can not affect;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, only, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle the straight eye of left front lock 5-6, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

What preferably, in the A step of described step 4, collar support adopted is sanding lining.

Preferably, need to roll over inside two foldings during infolding left front and scald in the B step of described step 4, need first wicket flap bar to dry after good and with flatiron, plated inward in the both sides of left front bar by serving as a contrast sticky machine while turning up left front, tangent line is wanted on both sides.

Preferably, scald when using the sticky machine of lining in left front and drying in the B step of described step 4, temperature is 140-145 ℃, and pressure is 2.2-2.6kg/ ㎡, time 8-12 second.

Preferably, the length of the medium and small sleeve vent of D step of described step 4 is 11-12 cm, and wide is 1.2-1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13-15 cm, and wide is 2.5-2.6 cm.

Preferably, the K step of described step 4 volume bottom hem is made with inside and outside double-layer separate and is cracked and make two kinds of methods according to the inside and outside two-layer merging of taking in described D step, and the mode of specifically taking is as follows respectively:

Volume bottom hem when inside and outside two-layer merging is made: after first inner bag and skin being set level, internal layer is than outer short 0.8CM simultaneously, then direct crimping;

Inside and outside double-layer separate volume bottom hem when processed that cracks: the first outer field bottom will paste the bodice garden of 2.5-3CM and put, and inner bag will be put 0.6CM, then crimping with respect to skin; Can in case later after ready-made clothes washing clothes inner bag toward exposing or press from both sides the cotton tight appearance effect that affects wearer's integral body of having dwindled;

beneficial effect:adopt the present invention of technique scheme to have the following advantages:

Particularly, compared with prior art, the technical scheme that the present invention takes has following outstanding advantage:

1, the manufacture craft of shirt of the present invention, in detail concrete standard each processing step and the design parameter of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, simultaneously in manufacture craft, craft and machine are combined, when having ensured the making production efficiency of shirt, further ensured the quality of shirt, made the shirt prepared by technical scheme of the present invention, had good quality, pattern is superior, wearing effect and improve grade, is a high-grade Dual-layer warming shirt;

2, the present invention is when serving as a contrast sticky machine and dry, and different parts adopt different Hot Air Dying Technology Parameters, suitable because of ground, has guaranteed quality, the class of the shirt produced;

3, the liner material that the present invention takes does not lose the warming effect of very playing again of putting down of shirt while making wearing of shirt;

4, the present invention adopts inside and outside two-layer merging to make or separately make two kinds of methods, and method is various, and has all avoided that appearance after the ready-made clothes washing of shirt is not convinced, clothes inner bag has dwindled the tight appearance effect such as wearer's integral body that affect toward exposing or press from both sides cotton.

The specific embodiment

Below by specific embodiment, the present invention is further elaborated; but it should be noted that concrete technology condition described in embodiments of the invention and result thereof are only for illustrating the present invention; can not limit the scope of the invention with this; the equivalence that every Spirit Essence according to the present invention is done changes or modifies, and all should be encompassed in protection scope of the present invention.

Embodiment 1:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170 ℃, and pressure is 3.0kg/ ㎡, 17 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 140 ℃, pressure is 2.2kg/ ㎡, 12 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made in process and adopt inside and outside two-layer merging method of sewing, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, then inside and outside two-layer four limits are stepped on fixing after in dress door towel bar;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after repairing gesture with model after complex potential inside and outside two-layer stepping on together with back four limits be fixed into a conventional shirt;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 11 cm, and wide is 1.2cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13 cm, and wide is 2.5cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; After first inner bag and skin being set level, internal layer is than outer short 0.8CM simultaneously, then direct crimping;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 5 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

Embodiment 2:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 172 ℃, and pressure is 3.4kg/ ㎡, 15 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 143 ℃, pressure is 2.4kg/ ㎡, 10 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made in process and adopt inside and outside two-layer merging method of sewing, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, then inside and outside two-layer four limits are stepped on fixing after in dress door towel bar;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after repairing gesture with model after complex potential inside and outside two-layer stepping on together with back four limits be fixed into a conventional shirt;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 11 cm, and wide is 1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 14cm, and wide is 2.6 cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; After first inner bag and skin being set level, internal layer is than outer short 0.8CM simultaneously, then direct crimping;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 5 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

Embodiment 3:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 175 ℃, and pressure is 3.6kg/ ㎡, 13 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 145 ℃, pressure is 2.6kg/ ㎡, 8 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made in process and adopt inside and outside two-layer merging method of sewing, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, then inside and outside two-layer four limits are stepped on fixing after in dress door towel bar;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after repairing gesture with model after complex potential inside and outside two-layer stepping on together with back four limits be fixed into a conventional shirt;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 12 cm, and wide is 1.2 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 15 cm, and wide is 2.5cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; After first inner bag and skin being set level, internal layer is than outer short 0.8CM simultaneously, then direct crimping;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 6 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

Embodiment 4:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170 ℃, and pressure is 3.0kg/ ㎡, 17 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 145 ℃, pressure is 2.6kg/ ㎡, 8 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made and in process, adopt the inside and outside double-layer separate two kinds of methods of system of cracking, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture; Inside in the time of like this can water-proof washing, fabric difference causes and is not convinced or wrinkling;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, repaiied and with outer field shirt, separately made afterwards;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after first skin being made after complex potential and bound off with five lines at inner bag, the little 2CM of climbing then at shoulder seam place and place, oxter, line being run business into particular one grows inside and outside two-layer fabric is fixed; So not being convinced or uncomfortable sensation of when wearer wears, internal layer being dragged outward that just can not affect;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 11 cm, and wide is 1.2 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13 cm, and wide is 2.5 cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; First the outer field bottom will paste the bodice garden pendulum of 2.5-3CM, and inner bag will be put 0.6CM, then crimping with respect to skin;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 6 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

Embodiment 5:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 172 ℃, and pressure is 3.4kg/ ㎡, 15 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 142 ℃, pressure is 2.4kg/ ㎡, 10 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made and in process, adopt the inside and outside double-layer separate two kinds of methods of system of cracking, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture; Inside in the time of like this can water-proof washing, fabric difference causes and is not convinced or wrinkling;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, repaiied and with outer field shirt, separately made afterwards;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after first skin being made after complex potential and bound off with five lines at inner bag, the little 2CM of climbing then at shoulder seam place and place, oxter, line being run business into particular one grows inside and outside two-layer fabric is fixed; So not being convinced or uncomfortable sensation of when wearer wears, internal layer being dragged outward that just can not affect;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 12 cm, and wide is 1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 15 cm, and wide is 2.6 cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; First the outer field bottom will paste the bodice garden pendulum of 2.5-3CM, and inner bag will be put 0.6CM, then crimping with respect to skin;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 5 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

Embodiment 6:

A manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, comprises the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 175 ℃, and pressure is 3.6kg/ ㎡, 13 seconds time;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again, during infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings scalds again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides, scalds in left front and uses while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, and temperature is 140 ℃, pressure is 2.2kg/ ㎡, 8 seconds time;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made and in process, adopt the inside and outside double-layer separate two kinds of methods of system of cracking, specific as follows:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture; Inside in the time of like this can water-proof washing, fabric difference causes and is not convinced or wrinkling;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, repaiied and with outer field shirt, separately made afterwards;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after first skin being made after complex potential and bound off with five lines at inner bag, the little 2CM of climbing then at shoulder seam place and place, oxter, line being run business into particular one grows inside and outside two-layer fabric is fixed; So not being convinced or uncomfortable sensation of when wearer wears, internal layer being dragged outward that just can not affect;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly; The length of little sleeve vent is 11 cm, and wide is 1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 14 cm, and wide is 2.5 cm;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping; With 0.5cm reel volume base; First the outer field bottom will paste the bodice garden pendulum of 2.5-3CM, and inner bag will be put 0.6CM, then crimping with respect to skin;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses; With presses, shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding; Wholely first leading, scald very when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 6 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole.

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique whether to meet the quality standard of shirt.

Quality standard mainly comprises:

The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;

Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;

Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;

Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;

Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread.

The shirt that adopts the above embodiment of the present invention to produce is comfortable and easy to wear, and outward appearance, simple design are generous, meet on the whole the high standard requirement of shirt, are the double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler of a top grade.

Claims (6)

1. a manufacture craft for double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler, is characterized in that: comprise the following steps:

(1) select materials: choose the material of face and inner bag, inner bag used adopts the knitting folder of 15 grams cotton, is specially the rhombus sub-box that knitting material is stepped on into 3.5 * 3.5CM with 15 grams of folder cottons and can be used as inner bag fabric;

(2) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, wherein all accomplish fluently cutter eye on the upper neck in garment piece model, lower wall, complex potential, sleeve mountain, cuff model, carry out mark;

(3) cutting: the material of the face sequencing and inner bag is cut into garment piece, mainly comprises anter, rear panel, collar, sleeve sheet, pocket, left front, whether completely cut out rear inspection, arrangement cut-parts and parts., have or not fault, have or not dropping fraction;

(4) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, and concrete method of sewing is as follows:

(A) sticky collar support: the collar support in the collar of cutting out carries out bonding, in the time of sticky first by cloth pyrocondensation., then lining is spread with flatiron and is scalded behind jail and be placed on the sticky machine of lining and dry, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170-175 ℃, pressure is 3.0-3.6kg/ ㎡, time 13-17 second;

(B) scald left front: the left front parts of cutting out are pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, while scalding left front, be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again;

(C) scald pocket: first by the clean model of bag, scald, the cleaner sample of hot bag is contained on sack position, the seam of sack is wanted evenly, and interior envelope must not surpass 0.5cm, and sack, bag limit want straight;

(D) making of anter, rear panel and sleeve sheet: the anter of cutting out, rear panel and sleeve sheet are made, made and in process, be divided into inside and outside two-layer merging and make and the inside and outside double-layer separate two kinds of methods of system of cracking, specific as follows:

(a) face, inner bag merging are made and are specially:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, then inside and outside two-layer four limits are stepped on fixing after in dress door towel bar;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after repairing gesture with model after complex potential inside and outside two-layer stepping on together with back four limits be fixed into a conventional shirt;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly;

(b) the inside and outside double-layer separate system of cracking is specially:

Draw complex potential: first by inner bag and face inside and outside this two-layer complex potential fix and carry out tangent line, then by inside and outside, two-layerly draw together, draw in complex potential process sealing to want straight and evenly, back can not be eaten gesture;

Repair, fill towel in door: draw after complex potential, then repair towel in predecessor's door, repaiied and with outer field shirt, separately made afterwards;

Before and after sheet close shoulder: drawn after first skin being made after complex potential and bound off with five lines at inner bag, the little 2CM of climbing then at shoulder seam place and place, oxter, line being run business into particular one grows inside and outside two-layer fabric is fixed;

Sleeve sheet is made: will inside and outside two-layer sleeve four limits step on after fixing and open sleeve vent line again, according to sleeve vent length, be divided into little sleeve vent and after sleeve vent, big or small sleeve vent directly made on sleeve greatly;

(E) upper sleeve: first shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Again by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice carry out sleeve latasuture sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; And then to sewing up at the end of sleeve; Finally fill cuff, margin to seam during dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, and upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuff spacing are consistent;

(F) do neck: after the upper top collar of collar is glued with bonder, top collar is stacked on underedge, is then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching;

(G) roll up neck: first the neck angle seam of collar is repaiied to 0.3 cm, then top collar upper, inner collar under plate after routing up, inner collar is scalded into 0.1cm than top collar, finally cuts neck seam again, seam is wanted evenly;

(H) do lower neck: first the lower top collar of collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm;

(I) three folder necks: lower top collar is put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, and three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, cut 0.15cm center line, end opening seam is put 0.5cm, and require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously;

(J) dress neck: first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures I mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;

(K) volume bottom hem: the bottom of shirt is carried out to crimping;

(L) whole scalding: shirt integral body is carried out to whole scalding with presses;

(M) keyhole, nail catcher: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, only, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle the straight eye of left front lock 5-6, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;

(5) product inspection: the shirt finished product of making is tested, check each spot size, technique.

2. the manufacture craft of high-grade shirt according to claim 1, is characterized in that: what in the A step of described step 4, collar support adopted is sanding lining.

3. the manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the B step of described step 4, need to roll over inside two foldings during infolding left front and scald again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides.

4. the manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the B step of described step 4, scald when using the sticky machine of lining in left front and drying, temperature is 140-145 ℃, and pressure is 2.2-2.6kg/ ㎡, time 8-12 second.

5. the manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the length of the medium and small sleeve vent of D step of described step 4 is 11-12 cm, and wide is 1.2-1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13-15 cm, and wide is 2.5-2.6 cm.

6. the manufacture craft of double knitwear inner bag Shirt with warm keeping filler according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the K step volume bottom hem of described step 4 is made with inside and outside double-layer separate and cracked and make two kinds of methods according to the inside and outside two-layer merging of taking in described D step, and the mode of specifically taking is as follows respectively:

Volume bottom hem when inside and outside two-layer merging is made: after first inner bag and skin being set level, internal layer is than outer short 0.8CM simultaneously, then direct crimping;

Inside and outside double-layer separate volume bottom hem when processed that cracks: the first outer field bottom will paste the bodice garden of 2.5-3CM and put, and inner bag will be put 0.6CM, then crimping with respect to skin.