CN103948200A - Fabrication process of high-end fully plaid-matching stripe-matching shirt - Google Patents
Fabrication process of high-end fully plaid-matching stripe-matching shirt Download PDFInfo
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- CN103948200A CN103948200A CN201410172574.7A CN201410172574A CN103948200A CN 103948200 A CN103948200 A CN 103948200A CN 201410172574 A CN201410172574 A CN 201410172574A CN 103948200 A CN103948200 A CN 103948200A
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Abstract
The invention provides a fabrication process of a high-end fully plaid-matching stripe-matching shirt. The fabrication process comprises the steps of arranging materials, tailoring, sewing, inspecting, packaging and the like. In the fabrication process provided by the invention, fully matching plaids and strips are insisted in the course of arranging the materials, tailoring and sewing, finally, the plaids and the strips are matched in each detail of a left front part, a right front part, side seams, a placket, a back, a back yoke, sleeves, cuffs, collar points, pockets, lower hems and the like, so that the plaids and the strips are fully matched in the made shirt, and the quality and the grade of the shirt are more high-end. The fabrication process provided by the invention detailedly and concretely standardizes each process sequence and concrete parameters in the fabrication course of the high-grade shirt; moreover, in the fabrication process, handwork and machines are combined together, the fabrication and production efficiency of the shirt is ensured, and the quality of the shirt is further ensured at the same time, so that the shirt made by the technical scheme of the invention is excellent in the quality and patterns, the wearing effect is upgraded, and the shirt is upscale.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of manufacture craft of shirt, be specifically related to the manufacture craft of a kind of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, belong to field of textiles.
Background technology
Clothing, food, lodging and transportion--basic necessities of life are that people live must obligato part, along with social progress, the raising of people's economic capability, people are also more and more higher to the requirement of the aspect of wearing the clothes, quality requirement to clothes is also more and more higher, in shirt is also included within naturally as the one in clothes.
Spring, summer, autumn and winter, shirt is the dress ornament of maximum people's dresses, shirt design simplicity generosity, and technique is simple, and personalized collocation, no matter wear or wear the makings that can show fashion outward in being.The young man of some fashion in recent years, in leisure, wearing one of maximum clothes is exactly shirt, especially grid shirt, grid shirt has become the necessary article of the young clothing Cabinet of fashion.
The quantity of shirt, pattern are various in the market, but quality is very different, and high-quality, high-end, high-grade shirt relatively lack, grid shirt is also so, and grid shirt has very large difference in price on the market at present, have tens, and some hundreds of pieces, even thousands of have.Except the reason such as location, fabric of some brands, another outer influence factor is exactly the workmanship of shirt.A key factor that affects grid shirt workmanship is exactly " plaid matching is to bar ".Whether a shirt accomplishes that full plaid matching is the important evidence that determines a grid shirt class to bar.
But at present also not relevant patented technology has detailed, clear and definite regulation, explanation to high-end full plaid matching to the manufacture craft of bar shirt.
Summary of the invention
goal of the invention:the object of the invention is for defect of the prior art, the manufacture craft of a kind of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt is provided.
technical scheme:for achieving the above object, the present invention has taked following technical scheme:
The manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, comprises the following steps:
(1) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, when discharge using the corner of pattern or folding Ge Hua position, place, the flap position loci as another width cut-parts, simultaneously therein upper neck, the lower wall in garment piece model, cross on shoulder, sleeve mountain, cuff model and all accomplish fluently cutter eye, carry out mark;
(2) cutting: the parts that need to cut out comprise 2 of front cut pieces, 1 of rear panel, cross and take on 2,2, sleeve, 2 of upper necks, 2 of lower necks, 1, pocket, 4 of gram husbands of sleeve, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment left fronts, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment UNDER FLYs, while cutting out, to first check cut-parts quantity, then contraposition clip, cut-parts require vis-a-vis, putting well in pairs, carry out mark, simultaneously cut-parts size with respect to model is big or small will large circulation lattice;
(3) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, made in process and require the full plaid matching of each parts to bar, concrete method of sewing is as follows:
(a) scald and do inner placket width: the left front part of two front cut pieces in left and right is pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, scald and be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again when left front, after hot, require left front centring bar, left and right front cut pieces and left front broadwise are to horizontal stripe, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(b) scald nail breast pocket: first press the clean model of pocket and scald, clean hot pocket sample is contained on the sack position of bodice, the seam of sack is wanted evenly again, and interior envelope must not exceed 0.5cm, sack, bag limit want straight, scald the pocket of fixing require with front cut pieces anyhow the full plaid matching in aspect to bar;
(c) did shoulder: first the face of crossing shoulder is put topmost, the underedge of crossing shoulder is placed on bottom, and rear panel is clipped in the middle, and then three layers are drawn together, did sealing in shoulder process and wanted straight and even, back can not be eaten gesture, and the ready-made shoulder of crossing requires grid straight, and in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.1, back grid is straight, centring bar, in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.2, and back yoke requires symmetrical;
(d) lead: first glue collar support, be specially respectively upper and lower top collar is glued to collar support, sticky time first by upper and lower top collar pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170-175 DEG C, pressure is 3.0-3.6kg/ ㎡, time 13-17 second; Then do neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then roll up neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then do lower neck, be specially first lower top collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm; Finally three folder necks are done in neck combination up and down, are specially lower top collar and put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously; Ready-made collar requires left and right collar point grid symmetry, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(e) scald neck, dress neck: after hot by flatiron to ready-made collar, fill again neck, when dress neck, first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures d mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;
(f) seam shoulder seam: rear panel is placed on lower floor, crosses shoulder underedge and crop stitching is seized, and crop must be concordant with the neckline of crossing shoulder;
(g) make sleeve vent in the sides of a garment: first jag on sleeve sheet, be divided into little sleeve vent and large sleeve vent according to sleeve vent length, little sleeve vent is respectively with large making of sleeve vent:
Little sleeve vent: little sleeve vent doubling is hot, is then placed on little sleeve vent sleeve sheet reverse side and aligns, secures, knocks down back stitching with fork seam, then little sleeve vent is folded to front and cuts firm seam with bodice;
Large sleeve vent: hot by length and the width of large sleeve vent, then hot large sleeve vent is pressed on little sleeve vent and with sleeve sheet and cuts jail;
(h) dress sleeve: shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Sleeve requires grid straight, two sleeve left and right horizontal stripe symmetries, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(i) close latasuture sleeve end seam: close latasuture and be specially: first by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; Sleeve end seam is specially: the sticky bushing end opening volume of cuff 1cm., and sleeve face is put, and in sleeve, puts down, and reserves 0.4cm and rout up pressing when stitching, and underedge scalds into 0.1cm, finally cuts seam again, and seam is even; After stitching, require latasuture, the sleeve end to stitch all to horizontal stripe;
(j) dress cuff: margin to seam when dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuffs are with vertical bar symmetry, and in neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(k) the volume bottom: roll up the bottom with reel, the width on bottom base is consistent, and the lap portion grid of simultaneously spooling is directly suitable, and front and back sheet grid deflection is less than 0.2cm;
(l) keyhole, order button: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, only, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle the straight eye of left front lock 5-6, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;
(m) whole scald: with presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; Wholely first scald very leading when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;
(4) inspection: the finished product to shirt is tested, and checks each spot size, technique, plaid matching to bar situation;
(5) packaging: ready-made clothes is after the assay was approved packed.
Preferably, between cutting out, described step 2 to check fabric, whether there is the problems such as breakage, stain, weave faults, aberration, the fault that affects outward appearance must be used chalk mark, while cutting out, avoid using, whether the skew of weft that simultaneously also will check fabric exceedes 0.5 cm, if exceeded, fabric is carried out to heat treatment.
What preferably, in described steps d, collar support adopted is sanding lining.
Preferably, need to roll over inside two foldings when infolding left front and scald in described step a, need first wicket flap bar to dry after good and with flatiron, plated inward in the both sides of left front bar by serving as a contrast sticky machine while turning up left front, tangent line is wanted on both sides.
Preferably, scald when using the sticky machine of lining in left front and drying in described step a, temperature is 140-145 DEG C, and pressure is 2.2-2.6kg/ ㎡, time 8-12 second.
Preferably, the length of the medium and small sleeve vent of described step g is 11-12 cm, and wide is 1.2-1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13-15 cm, and wide is 2.5-2.6 cm.
beneficial effect:adopt the present invention of technique scheme to have the following advantages:
Particularly, compared with prior art, the technical scheme that the present invention takes has following outstanding advantage:
Manufacture craft of the present invention has all adhered to that full plaid matching is to bar in discharge, the process of cutting out and making, finally realize each details such as left and right anter, latasuture, door cylinder, back, back yoke, sleeve, cuff, collar point, pocket, the bottom and all realized plaid matching to bar, make the shirt of producing realize full plaid matching to bar, make the quality, class of shirt all than higher-end; The manufacture craft of shirt of the present invention, in detail concrete specification each processing step and the design parameter of shirt in manufacturing process, simultaneously in manufacture craft, craft and machine are combined, in having ensured the making production efficiency of shirt, further ensure the quality of shirt, made the shirt prepared by technical scheme of the present invention, had good quality, pattern is superior, wearing effect and improve grade, is the shirt of a top grade; The present invention is when serving as a contrast sticky machine and dry, and different parts adopt different Hot Air Dying Technology Parameters, suitable because of ground, have guaranteed quality, the class of the shirt of producing.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by specific embodiment, the present invention is further elaborated; but it should be noted that concrete technology condition described in embodiments of the invention and result thereof are only for illustrating the present invention; can not limit the scope of the invention with this; the equivalence that every Spirit Essence according to the present invention is done changes or modifies, and all should be encompassed in protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment 1:
The manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, comprises the following steps:
(1) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, when discharge using the corner of pattern or folding Ge Hua position, place, the flap position loci as another width cut-parts, simultaneously therein upper neck, the lower wall in garment piece model, cross on shoulder, sleeve mountain, cuff model and all accomplish fluently cutter eye, carry out mark;
(2) cutting: will check fabric between cutting out, whether there is the problems such as breakage, stain, weave faults, aberration, the fault that affects outward appearance must be used chalk mark, while cutting out, avoid using, whether the skew of weft that simultaneously also will check fabric exceedes 0.5 cm, if exceeded, fabric is carried out to heat treatment; The parts that need to cut out comprise 2 of front cut pieces, 1 of rear panel, cross and take on 2,2, sleeve, 2 of upper necks, 2 of lower necks, 1, pocket, 4 of gram husbands of sleeve, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment left fronts, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment UNDER FLYs, while cutting out, to first check cut-parts quantity, then contraposition clip, cut-parts require vis-a-vis, putting well in pairs, carry out mark, simultaneously cut-parts size with respect to model is big or small will large circulation lattice;
(3) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, made in process and require the full plaid matching of each parts to bar, concrete method of sewing is as follows:
(a) scald and do inner placket width: the left front part of two front cut pieces in left and right is pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, scald and be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again when left front, after hot, require left front centring bar, left and right front cut pieces and left front broadwise are to horizontal stripe, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm; When infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings and scald, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well while turning up left front, tangent line is wanted on both sides; Scald in left front and use while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, temperature is 145 DEG C, and pressure is 2.6kg/ ㎡, 8 seconds time;
(b) scald nail breast pocket: first press the clean model of pocket and scald, clean hot pocket sample is contained on the sack position of bodice, the seam of sack is wanted evenly again, and interior envelope must not exceed 0.5cm, sack, bag limit want straight, scald the pocket of fixing require with front cut pieces anyhow the full plaid matching in aspect to bar;
(c) did shoulder: first the face of crossing shoulder is put topmost, the underedge of crossing shoulder is placed on bottom, and rear panel is clipped in the middle, and then three layers are drawn together, did sealing in shoulder process and wanted straight and even, back can not be eaten gesture, and the ready-made shoulder of crossing requires grid straight, and in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.1, back grid is straight, centring bar, in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.2, and back yoke requires symmetrical;
(d) lead: first glue collar support, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, be specially respectively upper and lower top collar is glued to collar support, sticky time first by upper and lower top collar pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 175 DEG C, and pressure is 3.6kg/ ㎡, 13 seconds time; Then do neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then roll up neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then do lower neck, be specially first lower top collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm; Finally three folder necks are done in neck combination up and down, are specially lower top collar and put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously; Ready-made collar requires left and right collar point grid symmetry, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(e) scald neck, dress neck: after hot by flatiron to ready-made collar, fill again neck, when dress neck, first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures d mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;
(f) seam shoulder seam: rear panel is placed on lower floor, crosses shoulder underedge and crop stitching is seized, and crop must be concordant with the neckline of crossing shoulder;
(g) make sleeve vent in the sides of a garment: first jag on sleeve sheet, be divided into little sleeve vent and large sleeve vent according to sleeve vent length, the length of little sleeve vent is 12 cm, and wide is 1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 15 cm, and wide is 2.6 cm, little sleeve vent is respectively with large making of sleeve vent:
Little sleeve vent: little sleeve vent doubling is hot, is then placed on little sleeve vent sleeve sheet reverse side and aligns, secures, knocks down back stitching with fork seam, then little sleeve vent is folded to front and cuts firm seam with bodice;
Large sleeve vent: hot by length and the width of large sleeve vent, then hot large sleeve vent is pressed on little sleeve vent and with sleeve sheet and cuts jail;
(h) dress sleeve: shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Sleeve requires grid straight, two sleeve left and right horizontal stripe symmetries, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(i) close latasuture sleeve end seam: close latasuture and be specially: first by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; Sleeve end seam is specially: the sticky bushing end opening volume of cuff 1cm., and sleeve face is put, and in sleeve, puts down, and reserves 0.4cm and rout up pressing when stitching, and underedge scalds into 0.1cm, finally cuts seam again, and seam is even; After stitching, require latasuture, the sleeve end to stitch all to horizontal stripe;
(j) dress cuff: margin to seam when dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuffs are with vertical bar symmetry, and in neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(k) the volume bottom: roll up the bottom with reel, the width on bottom base is consistent, and the lap portion grid of simultaneously spooling is directly suitable, and front and back sheet grid deflection is less than 0.2cm;
(l) keyhole, order button: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 6 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;
(m) whole scald: with presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; Wholely first scald very leading when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;
(4) inspection: the finished product to shirt is tested, and checks each spot size, technique, plaid matching to bar situation;
(5) packaging: ready-made clothes is after the assay was approved packed.
Embodiment 2:
The manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, comprises the following steps:
(1) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, when discharge using the corner of pattern or folding Ge Hua position, place, the flap position loci as another width cut-parts, simultaneously therein upper neck, the lower wall in garment piece model, cross on shoulder, sleeve mountain, cuff model and all accomplish fluently cutter eye, carry out mark;
(2) cutting: will check fabric between cutting out, whether there is the problems such as breakage, stain, weave faults, aberration, the fault that affects outward appearance must be used chalk mark, while cutting out, avoid using, whether the skew of weft that simultaneously also will check fabric exceedes 0.5 cm, if exceeded, fabric is carried out to heat treatment; The parts that need to cut out comprise 2 of front cut pieces, 1 of rear panel, cross and take on 2,2, sleeve, 2 of upper necks, 2 of lower necks, 1, pocket, 4 of gram husbands of sleeve, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment left fronts, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment UNDER FLYs, while cutting out, to first check cut-parts quantity, then contraposition clip, cut-parts require vis-a-vis, putting well in pairs, carry out mark, simultaneously cut-parts size with respect to model is big or small will large circulation lattice;
(3) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, made in process and require the full plaid matching of each parts to bar, concrete method of sewing is as follows:
(a) scald and do inner placket width: the left front part of two front cut pieces in left and right is pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, scald and be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again when left front, after hot, require left front centring bar, left and right front cut pieces and left front broadwise are to horizontal stripe, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm; When infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings and scald, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well while turning up left front, tangent line is wanted on both sides; Scald in left front and use while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, temperature is 143 DEG C, and pressure is 2.4kg/ ㎡, 10 seconds time;
(b) scald nail breast pocket: first press the clean model of pocket and scald, clean hot pocket sample is contained on the sack position of bodice, the seam of sack is wanted evenly again, and interior envelope must not exceed 0.5cm, sack, bag limit want straight, scald the pocket of fixing require with front cut pieces anyhow the full plaid matching in aspect to bar;
(c) did shoulder: first the face of crossing shoulder is put topmost, the underedge of crossing shoulder is placed on bottom, and rear panel is clipped in the middle, and then three layers are drawn together, did sealing in shoulder process and wanted straight and even, back can not be eaten gesture, and the ready-made shoulder of crossing requires grid straight, and in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.1, back grid is straight, centring bar, in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.2, and back yoke requires symmetrical;
(d) lead: first glue collar support, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, be specially respectively upper and lower top collar is glued to collar support, sticky time first by upper and lower top collar pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 172 DEG C, and pressure is 3.4kg/ ㎡, 15 seconds time; Then do neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then roll up neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then do lower neck, be specially first lower top collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm; Finally three folder necks are done in neck combination up and down, are specially lower top collar and put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously; Ready-made collar requires left and right collar point grid symmetry, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(e) scald neck, dress neck: after hot by flatiron to ready-made collar, fill again neck, when dress neck, first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures d mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;
(f) seam shoulder seam: rear panel is placed on lower floor, crosses shoulder underedge and crop stitching is seized, and crop must be concordant with the neckline of crossing shoulder;
(g) make sleeve vent in the sides of a garment: first jag on sleeve sheet, be divided into little sleeve vent and large sleeve vent according to sleeve vent length, the length of little sleeve vent is 11cm, and wide is 1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 14 cm, and wide is 2.6 cm, little sleeve vent is respectively with large making of sleeve vent:
Little sleeve vent: little sleeve vent doubling is hot, is then placed on little sleeve vent sleeve sheet reverse side and aligns, secures, knocks down back stitching with fork seam, then little sleeve vent is folded to front and cuts firm seam with bodice;
Large sleeve vent: hot by length and the width of large sleeve vent, then hot large sleeve vent is pressed on little sleeve vent and with sleeve sheet and cuts jail;
(h) dress sleeve: shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Sleeve requires grid straight, two sleeve left and right horizontal stripe symmetries, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(i) close latasuture sleeve end seam: close latasuture and be specially: first by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; Sleeve end seam is specially: the sticky bushing end opening volume of cuff 1cm., and sleeve face is put, and in sleeve, puts down, and reserves 0.4cm and rout up pressing when stitching, and underedge scalds into 0.1cm, finally cuts seam again, and seam is even; After stitching, require latasuture, the sleeve end to stitch all to horizontal stripe;
(j) dress cuff: margin to seam when dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuffs are with vertical bar symmetry, and in neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(k) the volume bottom: roll up the bottom with reel, the width on bottom base is consistent, and the lap portion grid of simultaneously spooling is directly suitable, and front and back sheet grid deflection is less than 0.2cm;
(l) keyhole, order button: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 6 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;
(m) whole scald: with presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; Wholely first scald very leading when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;
(4) inspection: the finished product to shirt is tested, and checks each spot size, technique, plaid matching to bar situation;
(5) packaging: ready-made clothes is after the assay was approved packed.
Embodiment 3:
The manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, comprises the following steps:
(1) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, when discharge using the corner of pattern or folding Ge Hua position, place, the flap position loci as another width cut-parts, simultaneously therein upper neck, the lower wall in garment piece model, cross on shoulder, sleeve mountain, cuff model and all accomplish fluently cutter eye, carry out mark;
(2) cutting: will check fabric between cutting out, whether there is the problems such as breakage, stain, weave faults, aberration, the fault that affects outward appearance must be used chalk mark, while cutting out, avoid using, whether the skew of weft that simultaneously also will check fabric exceedes 0.5 cm, if exceeded, fabric is carried out to heat treatment; The parts that need to cut out comprise 2 of front cut pieces, 1 of rear panel, cross and take on 2,2, sleeve, 2 of upper necks, 2 of lower necks, 1, pocket, 4 of gram husbands of sleeve, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment left fronts, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment UNDER FLYs, while cutting out, to first check cut-parts quantity, then contraposition clip, cut-parts require vis-a-vis, putting well in pairs, carry out mark, simultaneously cut-parts size with respect to model is big or small will large circulation lattice;
(3) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, made in process and require the full plaid matching of each parts to bar, concrete method of sewing is as follows:
(a) scald and do inner placket width: the left front part of two front cut pieces in left and right is pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, scald and be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again when left front, after hot, require left front centring bar, left and right front cut pieces and left front broadwise are to horizontal stripe, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm; When infolding left front, need to roll over inside two foldings and scald, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well while turning up left front, tangent line is wanted on both sides; Scald in left front and use while serving as a contrast sticky machine baking, temperature is 140 DEG C, and pressure is 2.2kg/ ㎡, 12 seconds time;
(b) scald nail breast pocket: first press the clean model of pocket and scald, clean hot pocket sample is contained on the sack position of bodice, the seam of sack is wanted evenly again, and interior envelope must not exceed 0.5cm, sack, bag limit want straight, scald the pocket of fixing require with front cut pieces anyhow the full plaid matching in aspect to bar;
(c) did shoulder: first the face of crossing shoulder is put topmost, the underedge of crossing shoulder is placed on bottom, and rear panel is clipped in the middle, and then three layers are drawn together, did sealing in shoulder process and wanted straight and even, back can not be eaten gesture, and the ready-made shoulder of crossing requires grid straight, and in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.1, back grid is straight, centring bar, in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.2, and back yoke requires symmetrical;
(d) lead: first glue collar support, what collar support adopted is sanding lining, be specially respectively upper and lower top collar is glued to collar support, sticky time first by upper and lower top collar pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170 DEG C, and pressure is 3.0kg/ ㎡, 17 seconds time; Then do neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then roll up neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then do lower neck, be specially first lower top collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm; Finally three folder necks are done in neck combination up and down, are specially lower top collar and put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously; Ready-made collar requires left and right collar point grid symmetry, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(e) scald neck, dress neck: after hot by flatiron to ready-made collar, fill again neck, when dress neck, first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures d mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;
(f) seam shoulder seam: rear panel is placed on lower floor, crosses shoulder underedge and crop stitching is seized, and crop must be concordant with the neckline of crossing shoulder;
(g) make sleeve vent in the sides of a garment: first jag on sleeve sheet, be divided into little sleeve vent and large sleeve vent according to sleeve vent length, the length of little sleeve vent is 11cm, and wide is 1.2 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13 cm, and wide is 2.5 cm, little sleeve vent is respectively with large making of sleeve vent:
Little sleeve vent: little sleeve vent doubling is hot, is then placed on little sleeve vent sleeve sheet reverse side and aligns, secures, knocks down back stitching with fork seam, then little sleeve vent is folded to front and cuts firm seam with bodice;
Large sleeve vent: hot by length and the width of large sleeve vent, then hot large sleeve vent is pressed on little sleeve vent and with sleeve sheet and cuts jail;
(h) dress sleeve: shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Sleeve requires grid straight, two sleeve left and right horizontal stripe symmetries, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(i) close latasuture sleeve end seam: close latasuture and be specially: first by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; Sleeve end seam is specially: the sticky bushing end opening volume of cuff 1cm., and sleeve face is put, and in sleeve, puts down, and reserves 0.4cm and rout up pressing when stitching, and underedge scalds into 0.1cm, finally cuts seam again, and seam is even; After stitching, require latasuture, the sleeve end to stitch all to horizontal stripe;
(j) dress cuff: margin to seam when dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuffs are with vertical bar symmetry, and in neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(k) the volume bottom: roll up the bottom with reel, the width on bottom base is consistent, and the lap portion grid of simultaneously spooling is directly suitable, and front and back sheet grid deflection is less than 0.2cm;
(l) keyhole, order button: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, 5 of the straight eyes of left front lock, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;
(m) whole scald: with presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; With presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald; Wholely first scald very leading when boiling hot, front neckline can not scald very, leaves nest gesture, secondly sleeve is plated, and then, leads and is placed on the left side, and the bottom, towards the right, is balanced; Inner placket width anter opens forward, scalds back, then scalds inner placket width, buckles well the clasps such as neckline;
(4) inspection: the finished product to shirt is tested, and checks each spot size, technique, plaid matching to bar situation; The quality requirement of inspection comprises:
The matter of specification, needle gage, needle tracking will be measured and ask;
Collar: lapel is very flat, two angular length are short consistent, and have nest gesture, and top collar is without wrinkling, and without bubbling, neck seam open-wire line width is consistent, without chain; Dress neck, left front and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right seam are flat; Accurately, without crooked, stitch is neat;
Sleeve: two little shoulders, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment symmetrical, sleeve vent in the sides of a garment be convinced without pin tuck, without hair go out, without broken hole;
Crimping width is consistent, and door smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right width is consistent, and button aligns with knob position;
Whole pressing very, yellow without scalding, without spot, without the end of a thread;
Plaid matching requires bar: left and right anter, latasuture, door cylinder, back, back yoke, sleeve, cuff, collar point, pocket, whether plaid matching is to bar for the bottom;
(5) packaging: ready-made clothes is after the assay was approved packed.
Adopt the shirt produced of the above embodiment of the present invention comfortable and easy to wear, outward appearance, simple design are generous, and the shirt that the present invention makes realized the requirement of full plaid matching to bar, meet on the whole the high standard requirement of shirt, are that a high-end full plaid matching is to bar shirt.
Claims (6)
1. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching to bar shirt, is characterized in that: comprise the following steps:
(1) discharge: ready-made garment piece model is discharged, when discharge using the corner of pattern or folding Ge Hua position, place, the flap position loci as another width cut-parts, simultaneously therein upper neck, the lower wall in garment piece model, cross on shoulder, sleeve mountain, cuff model and all accomplish fluently cutter eye, carry out mark;
(2) cutting: the parts that need to cut out comprise 2 of front cut pieces, 1 of rear panel, cross and take on 2,2, sleeve, 2 of upper necks, 2 of lower necks, 1, pocket, 4 of gram husbands of sleeve, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment left fronts, 2 of vent in the sides of a garment UNDER FLYs, while cutting out, to first check cut-parts quantity, then contraposition clip, cut-parts require vis-a-vis, putting well in pairs, carry out mark, simultaneously cut-parts size with respect to model is big or small will large circulation lattice;
(3) make: the garment piece of cutting out is made, made in process and require the full plaid matching of each parts to bar, concrete method of sewing is as follows:
(a) scald and do inner placket width: the left front part of two front cut pieces in left and right is pressed by flatiron and the sticky machine of lining, scald and be first certain about central bars infolding left front or turn up left front again when left front, after hot, require left front centring bar, left and right front cut pieces and left front broadwise are to horizontal stripe, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(b) scald nail breast pocket: first press the clean model of pocket and scald, clean hot pocket sample is contained on the sack position of bodice, the seam of sack is wanted evenly again, and interior envelope must not exceed 0.5cm, sack, bag limit want straight, scald the pocket of fixing require with front cut pieces anyhow the full plaid matching in aspect to bar;
(c) did shoulder: first the face of crossing shoulder is put topmost, the underedge of crossing shoulder is placed on bottom, and rear panel is clipped in the middle, and then three layers are drawn together, did sealing in shoulder process and wanted straight and even, back can not be eaten gesture, and the ready-made shoulder of crossing requires grid straight, and in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.1, back grid is straight, centring bar, in grid neutral gear, two contrast mutual deviation is less than 0.2, and back yoke requires symmetrical;
(d) lead: first glue collar support, be specially respectively upper and lower top collar is glued to collar support, sticky time first by upper and lower top collar pyrocondensation., again lining is spread with being placed on the sticky machine of lining and drying behind the boiling hot jail of flatiron, temperature when the sticky machine of lining is dried is 170-175 DEG C, pressure is 3.0-3.6kg/ ㎡, time 13-17 second; Then do neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then roll up neck, after being specially upper top collar bonder being glued, top collar is stacked on underedge, be then placed on cutter car the both sides end opening of top collar is got to back stitching; Then do lower neck, be specially first lower top collar is glued to lining, then by clean lining end opening volume 0.6cm; Finally three folder necks are done in neck combination up and down, are specially lower top collar and put face, in the middle of upper neck is put, below being placed in lower tie clip, three layers of aligning of intermediate knife eye, three cuttves of point print, three puts into cutter car and turns over pressing again after setting level, require lower two of leading round end is symmetrical, length is consistent simultaneously; Ready-made collar requires left and right collar point grid symmetry, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(e) scald neck, dress neck: after hot by flatiron to ready-made collar, fill again neck, when dress neck, first draw 0.5cm margin to seam by printing to align with the cutter of bodice in lower tie clip, back stitching is got at two, then top collar is printed with drawing three cuttves that it is good that neck is pushed down alignment procedures d mid point, will cover simultaneously and draw neck line;
(f) seam shoulder seam: rear panel is placed on lower floor, crosses shoulder underedge and crop stitching is seized, and crop must be concordant with the neckline of crossing shoulder;
(g) make sleeve vent in the sides of a garment: first jag on sleeve sheet, be divided into little sleeve vent and large sleeve vent according to sleeve vent length, little sleeve vent is respectively with large making of sleeve vent:
Little sleeve vent: little sleeve vent doubling is hot, is then placed on little sleeve vent sleeve sheet reverse side and aligns, secures, knocks down back stitching with fork seam, then little sleeve vent is folded to front and cuts firm seam with bodice;
Large sleeve vent: hot by length and the width of large sleeve vent, then hot large sleeve vent is pressed on little sleeve vent and with sleeve sheet and cuts jail;
(h) dress sleeve: shoulder tool mouth is aimed in the sleeve mountain of sleeve and sews up, in sewing process both to eat gesture even, margin to seam is consistent; Sleeve requires grid straight, two sleeve left and right horizontal stripe symmetries, and in grid neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(i) close latasuture sleeve end seam: close latasuture and be specially: first by lower of sleeve encase sleeve upper slice sew up, sealing is even, the wide 0.5cm of overseam, and then the positive 0.4 cm line of pressing, seam is consistent; Sleeve end seam is specially: the sticky bushing end opening volume of cuff 1cm., and sleeve face is put, and in sleeve, puts down, and reserves 0.4cm and rout up pressing when stitching, and underedge scalds into 0.1cm, finally cuts seam again, and seam is even; After stitching, require latasuture, the sleeve end to stitch all to horizontal stripe;
(j) dress cuff: margin to seam when dress cuff is 0.8cm cm, upper and lower seam is 0.1cm, and two cuffs are with vertical bar symmetry, and in neutral gear, mutual deviation is less than 0.1cm;
(k) the volume bottom: roll up the bottom with reel, the width on bottom base is consistent, and the lap portion grid of simultaneously spooling is directly suitable, and front and back sheet grid deflection is less than 0.2cm;
(l) keyhole, order button: one of the horizontal eye of lower wall lock, only, cuff passes in and out apart from noose 0.9cm place keyhole placed in the middle the straight eye of left front lock 5-6, after keyhole according to the position nail catcher of keyhole;
(m) whole scald: with presses to shirt entirety carry out whole scald;
(4) inspection: the finished product to shirt is tested, and checks each spot size, technique, plaid matching to bar situation;
(5) packaging: ready-made clothes is after the assay was approved packed.
2. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching according to claim 1 to bar shirt, is characterized in that: between described step 2 is cut out, will check fabric, check whether the skew of weft of fabric exceedes 0.5 cm, if exceeded, fabric be carried out to heat treatment.
3. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching according to claim 1 to bar shirt, is characterized in that: what in described steps d, collar support adopted is sanding lining.
4. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching according to claim 1 to bar shirt, it is characterized in that: in described step a, need to roll over inside two foldings when infolding left front and scald again, while turning up left front, need first wicket flap bar to be plated the both sides of left front bar with flatiron more inward by serving as a contrast after sticky machine dries well, tangent line is wanted on both sides.
5. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching according to claim 2 to bar shirt, is characterized in that: in described step a, scald when using the sticky machine of lining in left front and drying, temperature is 140-145 DEG C, and pressure is 2.2-2.6kg/ ㎡, time 8-12 second.
6. the manufacture craft of high-end full plaid matching according to claim 1 to bar shirt, is characterized in that: the length of the medium and small sleeve vent of described step g is 11-12 cm, and wide is 1.2-1.3 cm, and the length of large sleeve vent is 13-15 cm, and wide is 2.5-2.6 cm.
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| CN104532493A (en) * | 2014-12-16 | 2015-04-22 | 青岛凯妙服饰股份有限公司 | Semi-hand shirt sewing method |
| CN106723565A (en) * | 2016-12-19 | 2017-05-31 | 绍兴市博亚服饰有限公司 | A kind of version type processing method of creation |
| CN109930308A (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2019-06-25 | 浙江理工大学 | A kind of sewing method sewing neck on striped or checked fabric shirt using template |
| CN110051066A (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2019-07-26 | 浙江理工大学 | It is a kind of to make the process that piece is led under plaid matching shirt of template |
| CN110122962A (en) * | 2019-06-17 | 2019-08-16 | 西京学院 | A kind of tailoring method of male's western clothes handkerchief pocket |
| CN112773031A (en) * | 2021-01-20 | 2021-05-11 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving hemming of knitted shirt |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN112773031A (en) * | 2021-01-20 | 2021-05-11 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving hemming of knitted shirt |
| CN112773031B (en) * | 2021-01-20 | 2023-02-03 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving curling problem of knitted shirt |
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