CN110652059B

CN110652059B - Clothing platemaking collar matching method based on angle principle

Info

Publication number: CN110652059B
Application number: CN201910896333.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 徐财义
Original assignee: Haining Ziheng Garment Design Co ltd
Current assignee: Haining Ziheng Garment Design Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-09-23
Filing date: 2019-09-23
Publication date: 2023-09-01
Anticipated expiration: 2039-09-23
Also published as: CN110652059A

Abstract

The invention relates to a clothing platemaking collar matching method based on an angle principle. Belongs to the technical field of clothing design platemaking. The problem to be solved is that the collar of the western-style clothes is not accurately assembled in the clothing platemaking process. The technical characteristics are that: the angle of the lapel folding line and the size relation ratio of the face collar to the bottom collar are calculated by 180 degrees of horizontal line combined with the inclination of the human shoulder, and an accurate back collar lodging angle is obtained by adopting a complementary angle formula; the method is characterized in that: the collar matching and the lapel modeling are designed together and have detailed data and operation steps, so that scientific collar matching is carried out; the method is characterized in that: the method is simple, flexible in application and accurate in rear collar lodging amount, and can be widely applied to computer CAD plate making to improve the working efficiency; the main application is as follows: the accuracy of the technical staff in the industry on the collar distribution is improved, so that the technical level of clothing platemaking in China is improved, the upgrade of teaching materials in clothing institutions is promoted, the teaching quality and employment rate are further improved, and the transformation upgrade prosperous development of clothing industry is promoted.

Description

Clothing platemaking collar matching method based on angle principle

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design platemaking, in particular to a clothing platemaking collar matching method based on an angle principle.

Technical Field

In order to realize the radical tasks of the Lide tree, adhere to the market, highlight the type characteristics of vocational education, deepen the fusion of production and education, promote teachers, teaching materials and teaching method reform, standardize the whole talent culture process and accelerate the culture of compound skill talents; and the new technology, the new process and the new standard are timely incorporated into course standards and teaching contents, so that the teaching quality and employment rate are improved.

Along with the development and transformation of the clothing industry to the high-quality standardization direction, the transformation and the upgrading of the clothing industry are indispensable in talents and innovation of technology, and the innovation in the technical field of clothing design platemaking is the basis of the high-quality development of clothing and is also the technical support of the upgrading of the clothing industry in China; the collar is taken as the most important part of the whole garment, and the collar is the first impression feeling of the garment, so that whether the garment platemaking and collar matching method is scientific or not, whether the direct relationship collar shape is harmonious and attractive or not and the relationship with the first image of the wearer is very important; the collar type which is harmonious and attractive is beneficial to the sales of the enterprise clothing, and the collar type which is problematic can affect the sales of the enterprise clothing and the profitability and future development of brands.

The existing clothing plate making and collar matching technology comprises planar CAD and vertical cutting; the standing and cutting collar is relatively time-consuming and labor-consuming, and can not be directly applied to computer CAD; and thus are rarely used in enterprise applications. The planar plate making collar matching is more convenient and faster to operate directly on the computer CAD; however, because the collar matching method lacks scientific collar matching principle, the method lacks standard collar matching data and operation steps; the difference between the face collar turning down and the bottom collar is added to the outer collar, but the relation between the inclination of the inner shoulder of the human body and the angle of the turning line of the lapel is not considered, so that when the collar is turned down, sometimes the collar is turned down tightly, sometimes the outer opening of the loose collar has redundant fold quantity, the attractiveness of the collar and clothing is affected, the back collar is caused by inaccurate lodging quantity, and therefore, the collar needs to be modified for many times, time is wasted, and the working efficiency is reduced; the clothing development cost of enterprises is increased, the employment and development prospects of technical staff in the industries are affected, and the development of the enterprises and the industries is more relevant.

Existing clothing utility technologies such as 2018.7 reprint: women's dress series, guo Dongmei master plaiting; book number: ISBN978-7-5180-1386-9; the second chapter ready-made garment pattern design principle/third section: part pattern design principle, page 039, description of collar matching of collar class western-style clothes collar: on the basis of Japanese new culture prototypes, the point P and the point B are defined firstly, the point B is the actual front transverse open-collar big point of the garment, and the point P is positioned on a seam allowance line of which the front piece is outwards released by 4.5cm, so that the difference from a piece of open-collar is noted. The specific drawing steps are as follows: (1) and (3) vertically and upwards drawing AB=nb=3 cm through the point B, drawing AC=mb=4 cm (nb is a bottom collar, mb is a face collar), intersecting with a front shoulder line at the point C, connecting CO=AC=mb=4 cm, and connecting OP, wherein the OP is a fold line for turning over the collar. Drawing a mouth-missing shape according to a clothing style, symmetrically drawing a leading modeling by taking an OP as a symmetry axis, taking C1 as a symmetry point of a C point, drawing an arc 1 by taking C1 as a circle center, nb+mb=7cm as a radius, defining a Q point, drawing an arc 2 by taking the length of a line segment QB as the circle center and intersecting the arc 1 with the B1 point. Measuring the length (delta) of CB, drawing a lapel track line on a rear collar, measuring the lengths of a rear collar arc line (#), the lapel track line (#), and drawing an arc line 3; drawing an arc 4 by taking C1 as a circle center and taking # +0.3cm as a radius, and drawing a public tangent line NM of the arc 3 and the arc 4; adjusting the position of the M point to ensure that NM=nb+mb=7cm, wherein the N point is motionless, and the adjusted M point is on an arc line 2; connecting NB1 points; connecting MC1 points, and drawing a collar line: the arc line is connected with two points NB1, the N points are required to be right-angled, the drawing is standard, the outer opening line of the collar is drawn, and the right angle of the M points is kept to finish collar matching.

Through the practical collar of data and steps according to the content in the book, 5 major doubts are found:

(1) The collar opening and folding dead point data are incomplete;

(2) The modeling data of the lapel and the neck mouth are not marked and described;

(3) The lodging amount of the key data of the collar is inconvenient to determine;

(4) The bottom collar is not provided with a separated collar seat, and the collar waist is provided with more than 1cm allowance;

(5) Blank samples from collar-missing practices.

(1) According to the expression, the face collar is 4cm, the bottom collar, namely the lower collar is 3cm, the P point and the B point are defined firstly, and the B point is the actual front transverse open collar big point of the garment; but there is no data that indicates how wide the point B is; the point P only adds the front middle door-lifting quantity with the width of 4.5cm, but the data of the height of the folding dead point is lacking, and the incomplete data of the collar opening and the folding dead point is the first question.

(2) According to the expression, the lapel and the neck mouth are drawn according to the style, and no specific size and mark exist, so that a technician can draw the lapel shape of the style according to the content of the book; the additional explanation is that the collar matching includes the design of the lapel modeling, the specific drawing explanation of the lapel modeling is ignored, the dimension is not specific, and the second problem exists in the collar matching method.

(3) Drawing an arc line 3 by taking the center of a point B1 and 0.3cm as a radius according to the expression; drawing an arc 4 by taking C1 as a circle center and taking # +0.3cm as a radius, and drawing a public tangent line NM of the arc 3 and the arc 4; the position of the M point is adjusted to ensure that NM=nb+mb=7cm, and the correct point position is difficult to find by the adjustment of the M point through practical drawing; the inventor can determine the position by repeatedly adjusting and measuring 3 points with the upper and lower collar arcs and the collar width size for 3 times through the step operation of pressing books in hands, but the book does not describe how to adjust; the fuzzy expression of the key points proves that the method for preparing the collar is inconvenient, and the technical immaturity is the third question.

(4) According to the expression, if the collar is not subjected to collar seat separation treatment, the collar waist has a margin of about 1cm, and the problem that the collar waist cannot be attached to the neck is four.

(5) According to the book content, the collar blank cloth sample is not made after the collar is matched, namely the practice of the book lack of the collar blank cloth sample is the doubtful point five.

The method is characterized in that the method is based on Japanese new culture prototypes, 5 doubts are found after careful analysis and practice operation, so that theoretical books with 5 doubts exist, a editor does not go through in-person practice samples, how readers and students learn to use, and how technologies are applied to the market and enterprises; the realistic costume design platemaking book teaching material content is not practiced, and the result is the root of the problem that students have difficulty in employment and enterprises are difficult to bring high skill talents; the technology is not small, and the clothing industry and economy are related.

Because of this, an advanced, scientific and efficient clothing platemaking and collar matching method is urgently needed to solve the problem of inaccurate collar matching in the prior art, and the advanced, scientific and efficient clothing platemaking and collar matching method is critical to improving the cultivation of talents in clothing skills and institutions, improving the skill level, working efficiency and development prospects of clothing platemakers and developing high-quality transformation for the middle clothing industry.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of inaccurate collar allocation and low working efficiency in the prior art; the provided clothing pattern-making collar-matching method based on the angle principle; the angle collar matching method takes a horizontal line of 180 degrees as a basic principle, the front and back addition of the human shoulder inclination is 40 degrees, the angle collar matching method takes 180-40 degrees = 140 degrees, and the angle collar matching method takes 140 degrees as the human shoulder inclination; then taking 140 degrees as a collar matching foundation; considering that all the lapel styles have the turning over points of turning over the lapel to the front middle seam allowance line, when the turning over points are perpendicular to the front middle seam allowance line, the turning over angle generated by the turning over points is F, and then the F is reduced by 140 degrees to be equal to the residual angle, namely the residual angle formula. The formula of the matching collar is as follows: the accurate outer collar data is obtained by dividing (face collar and bottom collar) by (face collar and bottom collar) and multiplying the remaining angle by the falling amount of the rear collar.

The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:

the clothing platemaking collar matching method based on the angle principle is achieved through the following measures, and is technically characterized in that: taking the horizontal line as the basis of 180 degrees, and adding the human shoulder inclination to the front and back of the human body to be 40 degrees, wherein the human shoulder inclination is 140 degrees at 180-40 degrees=140 degrees, namely the human body shoulder inclination is 140 degrees; then taking 140 degrees as a collar matching foundation; considering that all the lapel styles have the turning over points of the lapel to the front middle seam allowance line, when the turning over angle generated by the perpendicular of the turning over line and the front middle seam allowance line is set as F, the F is subtracted by 140 degrees from the basic angle to be equal to the residual angle, and the residual angle formula is short for the sake of simplicity. The formula of the collar matching is as follows: the sum of the (face collar and bottom collar) divided by the (face collar and bottom collar) multiplied by the complementary angle is equal to the lodging quantity of the rear collar, thus, accurate outer collar data are obtained; the technical characteristics are that: based on the oblique internal angle of the shoulder of the human body, carrying out formula calculation on the size relation between the combined surface collar and the bottom collar and the position and angle of the turning dead point of the lapel, and obtaining an accurate back collar lodging angle; the technical characteristics are that: the collar and the lapel modeling are designed together and have detailed data and operation steps; the technical characteristics are that: the scientific, simple and accurate collar matching formula can be widely applied to computer CAD platemaking collar matching; the technical characteristics are that: classifying collar types, and adopting different collar matching formulas for different types of collar types; the technical characteristics are that: the relation between the data of the foundation collar width and the season and collar type; the technical characteristics are that: comprehensive analysis and consideration are carried out on various collar matching factors, including different face collars, bottom collars, lapel widths, turning over dead point positions, collar unfilled corner modeling, serial line height and serial line angle change, so that scientific collar matching is carried out. The technical characteristics are that: the technical staff can perform the first to third actions according to the principle and the method of the collar allocation, and the application is flexible; the collar matching method is suitable for the conventional lapel (the surface collar is 1.5 cm-2 cm larger than the bottom collar), the micro-arc type advanced western-style clothes collar with the bottom collar of 3 cm-4.5 cm, the arc type lapel, the olive collar, the gun lapel and the diamond type lapel. When the bottom collar is 0.5-3.5 cm and the surface collar is more than 2 times larger than the bottom collar, the collar belongs to the flat collar class and is not the lapel class, but the matched collar can be calculated by using the same complementary angle formula; the difference is that the front neck and shoulder folding point is at the front collar opening wide point.

The invention has the direct and indirect effects that the matched collar has thought to guide; the principle can be followed, the data can be controlled, the process can be operated, the method can be implemented, and the result can be verified; thereby improving the collar distribution level of clothing platemaking technicians in China.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a diagram of a collar style of a western-style suit.

Fig. 2 is a view showing the opening width of the rear collar, in which a thin solid line is a basic line and a thick solid line is a contour line.

Fig. 3 is a front collar view.

Fig. 4 is a separated view of the collar stand.

Fig. 5 is a drawing-finishing diagram of the collar structure of the western-style clothes.

Fig. 6 is a front view of a practical western-style collar.

Fig. 7 is a rear view of a practical western-style collar.

Fig. 8 is a top view of a practical western-style collar.

Detailed Description

A clothing pattern-making collar matching method based on angle principle, collar matching description: the collar is a (female wear), the number M, the collar is a linear lapel of the collar of the suit.

Collar opening width: the western-style clothes in spring and autumn are suitable for being opened by 1.6-1.8 cm on the basic collar. The collar of the winter overcoat is wider, generally 2-2.5 cm.

The normal proportion of the surface collar to the bottom collar is larger than the range of 1.5cm to 2cm of the bottom collar. For the unconventional large collar with the surface collar more than 2cm larger than the bottom collar, the collar matching method needs to use another method. The invention is described by the conventional proportion of the collar assembly of the western-style clothes;

the set face collar is 4.5cm, and the bottom collar is 3cm.

The formula of the collar matching is as follows:

fig. 2-3 are diagrams of the western assembly collar; the invention relates to a clothing platemaking collar matching method based on an angle principle, which further comprises the following steps:

(1) Opening a wide transverse collar by 1.6cm (the size of the rear straight collar is unchanged) on the basic collar, and measuring the arc length of the new rear collar;

(2) Determining a front neck and shoulder turnover starting point, and measuring 3cm-0.5 cm=2.5 cm of bottom collar on a front collar reverse extension line of the opening width;

(3) Determining a folding dead point, and according to a design drawing, adding 4.5-6 cm (adding 6 cm) of double-row buckling door quantity and intersecting two lines 9.5cm below the chest circumference line to form the folding dead point;

(4) The upper and lower turning points are connected to form a linear turning line;

(5) Determining the serial port line position, and according to a design drawing, generally about 7cm from the turning start point;

(6) Measuring the serial port line angle to about 57 degrees;

(7) Drawing a lapel, namely drawing the lapel about 7.5cm wide according to a design drawing, and taking a turning line as a vertical measuring lapel;

(8) Connecting the wide point of the lapel with the folding dead point to form a straight line, and slightly projecting by 0.5cm on the basis of the straight line to draw an external arc line of the lapel and take natural harmony as a standard;

(9) Designing a gap shape of the lapel, and connecting the wide part of the lapel of the classical western-style lapel by 3.6cm and the outer opening of the lapel by 0.3cm to ensure that the lapel is more attractive in shape;

(10) Setting a collar angle of 75 degrees;

(11) Setting the width of the collar to be 3.4cm;

(12) Determining the turned-out position of the collar surface, wherein the reverse amount is carried out from a turning start point to the front shoulder seam line by using the surface collar with the length of 4.5cm+0.5cm=5cm (the added length of 0.5cm is only applicable to the conventional collar);

(13) The collar face turning-out point is connected with the collar head wide point, and the collar head and the collar gap are slightly downwards curved to form a small point, so that the modeling of the lapel and the collar gap is very important to the beauty of the collar;

(14) Reversely copying the lapel and the front collar by taking the turning line as a symmetry axis;

(15) At the turning over dead point, measuring a turning over angle 73 degrees, and using 140-73=67×0.2=13 degrees of lodging quantity, (0.2 is the result of calculation of a face collar and a bottom collar according to a collar matching formula), wherein the thickness of the face collar is 1-2 degrees on the basis of the calculated lodging quantity so as to meet the thickness of the face collar;

(16) The front neckline point with the opening width is extended backwards in parallel with the turnover line, the downward amount is 13 degrees after the neckline is lodged, and the length is equal to the arc length of the rear neckline;

(17) Then the collar arc length is perpendicular to the bottom collar by 3cm and the surface collar by 4.5cm, and then the perpendicular line is connected with the collar line;

(18) And designing a button position and a button with double rows of buttons to finish basic collar matching.

Fig. 4 is a view showing the separation of the collar support, wherein the collar support is attached to the neck by the collar waist fitting method according to the present invention, and the method comprises the following steps:

(1) Setting a dividing line of the collar waist, wherein the dividing line is 1cm below the back collar folding line and 1.2cm below the front collar folding line, and connecting two points to form the dividing line of the collar waist;

(2) The turnover point of the rear neckline is horizontally 2.3cm and is drawn in the opposite direction to the corner point of the neckline, and the length of the turnover point is equal to the arc length of the original lower neckline;

(3) Taking a new lower collar line as a vertical measuring bottom collar of 3cm-1 cm=2cm, and then hanging down to a front collar segmentation starting point and connecting with a forward drawing arc;

(4) Measuring the size of the upper opening of the collar waist;

(5) Measuring the same size as the neck waist upper opening on the dividing line; note that the short feeding amount of the collar waist dividing line is controlled to be about 1.2cm, if the difference is too large, the radian of the collar opening under the new collar seat can be adjusted;

(6) At the position of 1.2cm of short feeding amount, 1cm is vertically arranged and is connected with the rear outer collar in an oblique line manner;

(7) On the oblique line of the rear collar, the outer opening is 1cm, and then the inner collar surface and the outer collar surface are perpendicular to each other so as to keep the size of the collar surface unchanged;

(8) Connecting the inner arc and the outer arc of the front collar, copying the front collar and the bottom collar, making symmetry and finishing, and remarking characters on the template to finish the separation of the collar seat and the collar matching.

Claims

1. A clothing platemaking and collar matching method based on an angle principle is an application of manual platemaking and computer cad platemaking, and is technically characterized in that: the female assembling collar comprises a micro-arc type advanced western-style collar, an arc type lapel, a olive collar, a gun lapel and a diamond type lapel; the collar assembling method of the western-style clothes comprises the following steps:

(1) Opening the wide front and rear transverse open collar by 1.6cm on the basic collar, wherein the size of the rear straight open collar is unchanged, and measuring the new arc length size of the rear collar;

(3) Determining a folding dead point, wherein according to a design drawing, the double-row buckling door quantity can be increased by 4.5-6 cm, and two lines 9.5cm below the chest circumference line are intersected to form the folding dead point;

(5) Determining the position of a serial port line, and determining 7cm from the turning start point according to the design drawing;

(6) Measuring the serial port line angle at 57 degrees;

(7) Drawing a lapel, drawing the lapel width to be 7.5cm according to a design drawing, and making a vertical measurement lapel width on a folding line;

(8) Connecting the wide point of the lapel with the folding dead point to form a straight line, slightly protruding 0.3-0.5 cm on the basis of the straight line, and taking natural harmony as a standard;

(10) Setting a collar angle of 75 degrees;

(11) Setting the width of the collar to be 3.4cm;

(12) Determining the turned-out position of the collar surface, and reversely measuring the collar surface from a turning-over starting point to the front shoulder seam line by 4.5cm+0.5cm=5cm;

(13) Connecting the turning-out point of the collar surface with the wide point of the collar head, and slightly downwards arc by 0.2cm, wherein the modeling of the lapel and the collar notch is very important for the beauty of the collar;

(15) At the turning dead point, measuring a turning angle of 73 degrees, and controlling the turning angle to be 140-73=67×0.2=13 degrees of lodging quantity;

(18) The design of the buckling position and the double-row buckling part completes collar matching.