CN111096510B - Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method - Google Patents
Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN111096510B CN111096510B CN201911130676.1A CN201911130676A CN111096510B CN 111096510 B CN111096510 B CN 111096510B CN 201911130676 A CN201911130676 A CN 201911130676A CN 111096510 B CN111096510 B CN 111096510B
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- sleeve
- line
- raglan
- point
- shoulder
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a plate-making and sleeve-matching method of unbiased raglan sleeve clothing. Belongs to the technical field of clothing design platemaking. The problem to be solved is that the sleeves of the raglan sleeves are biased backwards. The technical characteristics are that: based on the principle of mutual borrowing of shoulders and sleeves; the technical characteristics are that: changing the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve by using the displacement method principle of structural mechanics; the method is characterized in that: the angle and the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve are changed by rotating and shearing the front shoulder end point; the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve is changed according to the length and the stuffy amount of the middle seam between the rear sleeve and the front sleeve, so as to achieve the natural sleeve shape after the raglan sleeve tilts forward; the technical characteristics are that: the method is scientific and flexible to apply, and can be widely applied to computer CAD plate making; the main application is as follows: the method improves the plate making technology level of the raglan sleeves for Chinese and international clothing design, improves the plate making quality of the raglan sleeves, wins skill intercommunication, and promotes the prosperous development of the Chinese clothing industry and the global clothing industry.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design platemaking, in particular to a platemaking and sleeve matching method of unbiased raglan sleeve clothing.
Technical Field
In order to realize the radical tasks of the Lide tree, adhere to the market, highlight the type characteristics of vocational education, deepen the fusion of production and education, promote teachers, teaching materials and teaching method reform, standardize the whole talent culture process and accelerate the culture of compound skill talents; and the new technology, the new process and the new standard are timely incorporated into course standards and teaching contents, so that the teaching quality and employment rate are improved.
Clothing is the first requirement of people's life; along with the continuous improvement of the living standard of modern people, the wearing of the wearing apparel is endless, namely, the wearing apparel is required to show beautiful appearance and internal wearing comfort; therefore, the requirements of people on the style and the shape of the clothing are higher; when the demands of people for clothing purchase change, the requirements of manufacturers on skill level and layout of clothing platemakers are forced to be higher; the butterfly effect thus produced forms a transformation upgrade of the clothing industry, in particular an upgrade of platemaking technology and plate quality is the basis for enterprise brand upgrades.
The shoulder sleeve type garment belongs to sleeves of high-end atmosphere in the overcoat type, and has wide application; the sleeve is taken as a part of the modeling of the clothing sleeve, and the sleeve and the clothing body are in integral relation, so that whether the sleeve matching method of the sleeve is scientific or not is related to the attractive appearance, comfort and the quality of the whole clothing. Therefore, the clothing technology relates to clothing layout quality, and the clothing layout quality influences the sales and brand development of clothing.
The existing technology for making plate and matching sleeves of clothing is mainly two kinds of technology, namely plane and vertical cutting collar; the sleeve matching by vertical cutting is relatively time-consuming and labor-consuming, and can not be directly applied to computer-aided design (CAD), so that the sleeve matching by vertical cutting is rarely applied to enterprises, the planar plate making is mainly carried out by computer CAD, shoulder oblique lines are generally directly prolonged on a coat body, and an inclined sleeve angle is defined to draw the rotator cuff; because the sleeve type design of the raglan sleeve type bending type is not adopted, and the knowledge and research on structural mechanics are lacking, the displacement method of the structural mechanics cannot be applied to the sleeve type design of the raglan sleeve, so that the sleeve type of the method for directly extending the shoulder line to draw the raglan sleeve according to the angle is easy to deviate backwards, thereby affecting the attractive appearance of clothes, affecting employment and prospect of technical staff in industries, and being more related to the development of enterprises and industries.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects that the sleeve matching method of the prior art is not scientific and the sleeve is backwards biased; the provided method for making and matching the sleeves of the non-biased raglan sleeve clothing is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of providing a non-biased raglan sleeve clothing plate; the method for making and matching the sleeves of the unbiased raglan sleeve clothing is technically characterized in that: firstly, a piece of curved sleeve is drawn independently, then the sleeve and the clothing body are mutually borrowed for sleeve design of the raglan sleeve, and meanwhile, the shoulder force points of the sleeve center joint are shifted forwards by combining the fabric attribute; so as to change the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve; and combining the relationship between the fabric attribute and structural mechanics; changing the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve by using the displacement method principle of structural mechanics; the angle and the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve are changed by rotating and shearing the front shoulder end point; and then the length and the stuffy amount of the middle seam of the rear sleeve and the middle seam of the front sleeve are adjusted according to the fabric properties to change the vertical force direction of the sleeves so as to achieve the natural sleeve type with the shoulder sleeve inclined forwards and not biased.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: the method for making and matching the sleeves of the unbiased raglan sleeve clothing is achieved through the following measures. The technical characteristics are that: a curved sleeve is firstly drawn separately, and then the sleeve and the clothing body are mutually borrowed for sleeve design of the raglan sleeve. The technical characteristics are that: and (3) forward shifting the shoulder acting points of the sleeve center seam according to the fabric attribute so as to change the hanging force direction of the raglan sleeve. The technical characteristics are that: combining the fabric attribute and the structural mechanics relation; the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve is changed by the displacement method principle of structural mechanics, and the angle and the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve are changed by rotating and shearing the front shoulder end point. The technical characteristics are that: the vertical force direction of the sleeves is changed by adjusting the length and the stuffy amount of the middle seam of the rear sleeve and the middle seam of the front sleeve according to the fabric attribute so as to achieve the natural sleeve type with the sleeve inserted forward inclined and unbiased. The technical characteristics are that: the method for matching the raglan sleeve is scientific and can be applied to: comprises a raglan sleeve and a plate making with the raglan sleeve; two raglan sleeves and one raglan sleeve are inserted into the raglan sleeve, and the raglan sleeve is inserted into the armpit of the raglan sleeve and the raglan sleeve is inserted into the raglan sleeve. The technical characteristics are that: the application of the method to the fabric comprises the following steps: woolen cloth, cashmere, alpaca, particle, fur integration, sheep wool, double-sided velvet and double-sided woolen cloth.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a view of a rotator cuff style.
Fig. 2 is a front and rear view of the body.
Fig. 3 is a front and rear armhole diagram of the copied image.
Figure 4 is a basic view of a curved one-piece sleeve.
Fig. 5 is a one-piece sleeve bending structure with a bending.
Fig. 6 is a shoulder borrowing view of the front and rear pieces of the clothing body.
FIG. 7 is a view showing a slit and separation of a sleeve.
FIG. 8 is a drawing of a front raglan sleeve.
FIG. 9 is a drawing of a rear raglan sleeve.
FIG. 10 is a detailed design of a front raglan sleeve displacement method.
Fig. 11 is a rear raglan sleeve gauge.
Figure 12 is a view of the alignment of the front raglan sleeve.
Figure 13 is a view of the posterior rotator cuff alignment incision.
Figure 14 is a front view of a practical raglan sleeve blank.
Figure 15 is a rear view of a practical raglan sleeve blank.
Figure 16 is a side view of a practical raglan sleeve blank.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings: the sleeve matching object is (women's dress), the size 160/84, M number; woolen cloth; specification and size:
chest circumference: 116cm
Total shoulder width: 39.6cm
Back width: 19.2cm (radius)
Chest width: 18.5cm (radius)
Total sleeve Long Hu: 55.7cm (rear sleeve Long Hu 27.5.5 cm, front sleeve Long Hu 28.2.2 cm)
One sleeve length: 58cm
Sleeve fertilizer: 22cm (radius)
Cuffs: 17.5cm (radius)
The total eating amount of the sleeve is 1cm (0.5 cm in front and back respectively).
As shown in fig. 1 to 13, the method for making and matching sleeves for the unbiased raglan sleeve clothing of the present invention comprises the following steps:
according to the design of the raglan sleeve shown in fig. 1, the front and rear pieces of clothing are drawn, the clothing is balanced on the front, rear and side surfaces, and beautiful and comfortable sleeves can be manufactured only on the basis of the balanced clothing; and then the collar is assembled according to the style.
As in fig. 3, the front and rear armhole parts are copied, the shape and size of the armhole are measured and checked, the shape of the armhole is required to be natural and round, the size of the armhole is required to be matched with the chest circumference and the armhole, the total armhole arc data size is obtained to prepare for fitting the sleeves, wherein (1) is the front armhole arc length: 28.2cm; (2) is the length of the rear armhole arc: 27.5cm.
As shown in FIG. 4, the invention further describes a non-biased sleeve-inserting clothing plate-making and sleeve-matching method, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Drawing a horizontal line to fix a sleeve fertilizer 22cm x 2+1cm (1 cm is the loss amount after one sleeve rotates in advance);
(2) The armhole height is 15cm (half of the total armhole arc 55.7 multiplied by a function of 0.55) of reference value upwards from the midpoint of the horizontal line;
(3) The front sleeve oblique line is longer than the front armhole arc by 28.2-1.2=17 cm;
(4) The rear sleeve oblique line is longer than the rear sleeve arch 27.5-0.5=27 cm;
(5) Is the middle point of the front sleeve oblique line;
(6) Is the middle point of the rear sleeve oblique line;
(7) 2cm above the middle point of the front sleeve intersection point;
(8) 1.9cm below the middle point of the rear sleeve intersection point;
(9) The auxiliary point of the upper horizontal line before drawing is 5.6cm to the right by the sleeve center line;
(10) The auxiliary point of the upper horizontal line after drawing is 6cm to the left by the sleeve center line;
(11) The included angle of the rear sleeve bottom is 1.5cm upwards and is an auxiliary point of the rear sleeve arc;
(12) The 1.4cm lower included angle of the rear sleeve is the auxiliary point of the rear sleeve arc;
(13) The included angle of the front sleeve head is 1.6cm below the included angle of the front sleeve head and is an auxiliary point position of the front sleeve arc;
(14) The included angle of the front sleeve bottom is 1.7cm upwards and is an auxiliary point of the front sleeve arc;
(15) The auxiliary points are referenced to draw front and back sleeve cap arcs, natural and attractive sleeve cap modeling is noted, and the sleeve cap eating amount is proper;
(16) Drawing a horizontal line of a cuff line with the sleeve length of 58 cm;
(17) Drawing a sleeve elbow line by 30cm;
(18) Drawing a front sleeve suture;
(19) Drawing a rear sleeve suture;
as shown in FIG. 5, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve clothing according to the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) Setting half midpoints of front and rear sleeve fertilizer lines and cuff lines;
(2) 0.5cm is arranged at the midpoint of the front cuff and is 0.3cm upwards, and the actual front cuff starting point is connected with the upper sleeve arch line;
(3) 0.7cm below the midpoint of the cuff;
(4) Cuff size 17.5cm;
(5) 1/2 of the rear sleeve fertilizer is upwards prolonged until the sleeve arc line is taken as a rear sleeve rotating point;
(6) Drawing a rear sleeve foundation line;
(7) The back sleeve basic line is 0.8cm out and is used as the bending amount of one sleeve, and then is connected with the back sleeve top arc line and the lower cuff point again;
(8) 1/2 of the cuff is used as a sleeve center line;
(9) Copying the front sleeve seam by taking the new front sleeve fold line as the center;
(10) Feeding 0.8cm into the copied front sleeve seam at the sleeve elbow line to draw the front sleeve seam;
(11) The rear sleeve folding line copies the rear sleeve fertilizer point, and rotates downwards to a new sleeve fertilizer copying point at the rotating point of the rear sleeve cap, and the rear sleeve arc and the sleeve cap arc are kept unchanged in size. The size of the sleeve fertilizer is smaller than that of the basic sleeve fertilizer, but the actual sleeve fertilizer size is not smaller, (because 1cm is added in advance);
(12) Copying back sleeve slits at the back sleeve elbow point and the back sleeve opening respectively, wherein the middle empty quantity is the stuffy quantity of the back sleeve slits longer than the front sleeve slits, and the effect is to increase the natural bending of one sleeve so as to achieve the bending effect of two sleeves of one sleeve;
(13) Drawing a back sleeve seam;
(14) Adjusting the cuffs, wherein 0.6cm is arranged on the front cuffs;
(15) The back sleeve is 1cm more than the front sleeve by 0.4cm to reduce the eating amount of the back sleeve, because the eating amount is too much and is not easy to manufacture in the process; the front and back cuffs are then joined to the actual cuff line (the purpose of adjusting the cuffs is to adjust the process in view of the fact that the cuff folding process must be a straight line).
As shown in FIG. 6, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve clothing according to the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) Shoulder borrowing, 1.5cm below the front shoulder end point;
(2) Shoulder borrowing, 1.5cm above the back shoulder end point.
As shown in FIG. 7, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve clothing according to the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) The middle point of the cuff moves forward by 1.5cm;
(2) The middle point of the sleeve is also moved forward by 1.5cm and then the front sleeve and the rear sleeve are separated along the split line of the sleeve middle seam.
As shown in FIG. 8, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve clothing according to the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) 7.4cm from the side armholes of the front garment body is taken as a para-position starting point;
(2) 0.8cm horizontally from the front shoulder end point and 0.3cm upwards to form a butt joint position with the sleeve;
(3) The front sleeve bottom is sewn into 7.7cm as a sleeve alignment starting point, and the loss of arc drawing of the raglan sleeve is 03 cm more than that of the coat body, so that 0.3cm more of loss is needed to be added in advance;
(4) The front sleeves and the front coat body are aligned according to the alignment points, so that the sleeves and the coat body are connected together, and the air volume in the middle of the armholes is the increased activity of the raglan sleeves;
(5) Before drawing the shoulder line, connecting the shoulder point to the armhole from 4cm to 5cm below the neck and shoulder point, and drawing the line slightly upwards and slightly upwards to form an arc, wherein the attention is paid to the fact that the coat body is natural and smooth at the armhole after the shoulder line is drawn, and the coat body cannot be too concave;
(6) The natural circle is followed by the raglan sleeve line of the sleeve part;
(7) Designing a front sleeve displacement rotating point, taking a shoulder end point as a vertical front inserting shoulder line, taking the inserting shoulder line as a vertical upward 4.2 rotating center point, intersecting the inserting shoulder line to the shoulder end point, and setting a folding amount of 0.4cm on the front inserting shoulder line;
(8) The front sleeve is displaced to put the measuring line.
As shown in FIG. 9, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve clothing according to the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) The back piece body is sewn into the garment body from the side by 6.5cm as a para-position starting point;
(2) The back sleeve is 6.8cm as an alignment starting point and 6.5cm larger than the alignment point of the coat body, and the loss after the back raglan sleeve is drawn smoothly is specially reserved by 0.3cm;
(3) The back shoulder end point is horizontally moved out by 0.8cm and then is moved up by 0.5cm to be a butt joint position with the sleeve;
(4) The back sleeve and the back coat body are connected with the upper opposite points according to the opposite points of the armholes, the overlapping amount of the back sleeve arch and the back armholes at the back width is controlled below 0.5cm, and if the back sleeve arch and the back armholes are too much overlapped, the back sleeve arch and the back coat body are treated by adjusting the heights of the armhole opposite points;
(5) Drawing a rear shoulder line 3cm into the rear collar, and taking care that the rear shoulder line is slightly arched and drawn into the sleeve hole;
(6) Drawing a rear raglan sleeve line, namely taking care that 0.5cm is specially added at the back shoulder blade to meet the protruding amount of the back shoulder blade;
(7) Designing a back shoulder end release line;
(8) The design is followed by the design of the stuttering position of the raglan sleeve.
As shown in FIG. 10, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve garments of the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) Taking the rotation point as the center, folding the front sleeve shoulder seam by 0.4cm, opening the sleeve middle seam by 0.5cm, changing the position of structural mechanics and the vertical force direction of the sleeve through ingenious rotation, and enabling the sleeve to naturally face forwards;
(2) Releasing 1cm to change the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve and increase the natural forward force of the raglan sleeve;
(3) 1.2cm above the midline of the front cuff to keep the sleeve length unchanged;
(4) 0.5cm over the front cuff suture to weaken the slope of the front cuff;
(5) 0.5cm is reserved at the front sleeve fertilizer point, and 0.5cm is folded on the front sleeve fertilizer point; and then 0.5cm is added, because the cuff is 0.5cm, the length of the sleeve bottom seam is kept unchanged, and meanwhile, in order to increase the displacement rotation force of the front sleeve, the sleeve type patch is more natural and is more attractive after the sleeve type patch is not biased forward.
As shown in FIG. 11, the method for making and matching sleeves for unbiased raglan sleeve garments of the present invention further comprises the following steps:
(1) Shearing and opening by 0.5cm to obtain the amount of the middle joint of the rear sleeve, so that the rear sleeve is loose and tight, and the front sleeve is naturally forwards and is not biased;
(2) Shearing open by 0.5cm increases the amount of the suture at the elbow line of the rear sleeve, increases the tightness of the rear sleeve, and naturally moves forward without deviation.
FIG. 12 illustrates a non-biased sleeve making and matching method for a rotator cuff garment according to the present invention, comprising the steps of:
(1) The alignment knife edge of the front sleeve central seam and the rear sleeve central seam is 11cm (from the upper collar opening to the lower collar opening);
(2) The alignment knife edge of the front sleeve central seam and the rear sleeve central seam is 18cm (from the upper collar to the rear collar);
(3) The alignment incision of the front sleeve central seam and the rear sleeve central seam is 25cm (from the lower cuff amount to the lower cuff amount);
(4) The alignment knife edge of the front sleeve central seam and the rear sleeve central seam is 39cm (from the lower cuff amount to the lower cuff amount);
(5) The alignment incision of the front raglan sleeve is 6cm (from the lower amount to the upper amount);
(6) The alignment incision of the front raglan sleeve is 11cm (from the upper part to the lower part);
(7) The front garment body is aligned with the knife edge by 6cm (from the lower part to the upper part);
(8) The front garment body is aligned with the knife edge by 11cm (from the upper part to the lower part);
(9) Front sample plate silk thread;
(10) Note that 7.5cm of anterior raglan sleeve silk thread is advanced, 3.5cm of anterior raglan sleeve silk thread is advanced, namely 4cm anterior.
FIG. 13 illustrates a non-biased sleeve making and matching method for a rotator cuff garment according to the present invention, comprising the steps of:
(1) The alignment knife edge of the rear sleeve central seam and the front sleeve central seam is 11.5cm (from the upper collar opening to the front collar opening);
(2) The alignment knife edge of the rear sleeve central seam and the front sleeve central seam is 19cm (from the upper collarband to the front sleeve central seam);
(3) The alignment incision of the rear sleeve central seam and the front sleeve central seam is 25cm (from the lower cuff amount to the front sleeve central seam);
(4) The alignment knife edge of the rear sleeve central seam and the front sleeve central seam is 39.5cm (from the lower cuff volume to the front sleeve central seam);
(5) The eating amount of the back sleeve bottom seam is 1.2cm;
(6) The alignment knife edge of the back sleeve shoulder seam and the back coat body shoulder line is 10cm (from the upper part to the lower part);
(7) The alignment knife edge of the back sleeve shoulder seam and the back coat body shoulder line is 10cm (from the lower part to the upper part);
(8) The incision of the back body is 10cm (from the upper part to the lower part);
(9) The incision of the back body is 10cm (from the lower part to the upper part);
(10) A silk thread of a back body sample plate;
(11) Note that the posterior raglan sleeve template silk thread is parallel to the anterior raglan sleeve silk thread, so as to complete the raglan sleeve matching after unbiasing.
Claims (1)
1. An unbiased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method is an application of manual platemaking and computer cad platemaking; the technical characteristics are that: comprises two raglan sleeves, one raglan sleeve, one-piece raglan sleeve cutting armpit angle and one-piece raglan sleeve small sleeve matching sleeve plate; wherein, the total armhole arc of the front and back clothes body with loose style is used as the sleeve matching basis, and a curved sleeve is firstly drawn according to the length of the armhole arc, the method comprises the following steps:
(1) Drawing a horizontal line to fix the sleeve fertilizer by 44cm+1cm, wherein 1cm is the loss after one sleeve rotates;
(2) The sleeve height is 15cm upwards from the middle point of the horizontal line;
(3) The front sleeve oblique line is longer than the front armhole arc by 28.2-1.2=17 cm;
(4) The rear sleeve oblique line is longer than the rear sleeve arch 27.5-0.5=27 cm;
(5) Is the middle point of the front sleeve oblique line;
(6) Is the middle point of the rear sleeve oblique line;
(7) 2cm above the middle point of the front sleeve intersection point;
(8) 1.9cm below the middle point of the rear sleeve intersection point;
(9) The auxiliary point of the upper horizontal line before drawing is 5.6cm to the right by the sleeve center line;
(10) The auxiliary point of the upper horizontal line after drawing is 6cm to the left by the sleeve center line;
(11) The included angle of the rear sleeve bottom is 1.5cm upwards and is an auxiliary point of the rear sleeve arc;
(12) The 1.4cm lower included angle of the rear sleeve is the auxiliary point of the rear sleeve arc;
(13) The included angle of the front sleeve head is 1.6cm below the included angle of the front sleeve head and is an auxiliary point position of the front sleeve arc;
(14) The included angle of the front sleeve bottom is 1.7cm upwards and is an auxiliary point of the front sleeve arc;
drawing front and back sleeve cap arcs by referring to auxiliary points, and paying attention to the natural beauty of sleeve cap modeling and the control of sleeve cap eating amount;
(15) Drawing a horizontal line of a cuff line with the sleeve length of 58 cm;
(16) Drawing a sleeve elbow line by 30cm;
(17) Drawing a front sleeve suture;
(18) Drawing a rear sleeve suture;
after a sleeve base is drawn, then the design of a bent shape of a sleeve is started, and the method comprises the following steps:
(1) Setting half of front and rear sleeve fertilizer lines and cuff lines;
(2) 0.5cm is arranged at the midpoint of the front cuff and is 0.3cm upwards, and the actual front cuff starting point is connected with the upper sleeve arch line;
(3) 0.7cm below the midpoint of the cuff;
(4) Cuff size 17.5cm;
(5) 1/2 of the rear sleeve fertilizer is upwards prolonged until the sleeve arc line is taken as a rear sleeve rotating point;
(6) Drawing a rear sleeve foundation line;
(7) The back sleeve basic line is 0.8cm out and is a bending weight of one sleeve, and then is connected with the back sleeve top arc line and the lower cuff point again;
(8) 1/2 of the cuff is used as a sleeve center line;
(9) Copying the front sleeve seam by taking the new front sleeve fold line as the center;
(10) Feeding 0.8cm into the copied front sleeve seam at the sleeve elbow line to draw the front sleeve seam;
(11) Copying the rear sleeve fertilizer points by the rear sleeve fold lines, and rotating downwards to new sleeve fertilizer copying points at the rotating points of the rear sleeve caps, so that the rear sleeve arcs and the sleeve arc sizes are kept unchanged; although the sleeve fertilizer size is small, the actual sleeve fertilizer size is not small; the back sleeve seam is copied from the back sleeve elbow point and the back sleeve opening respectively, and the middle empty quantity is the eating quantity of the back sleeve seam longer than the front sleeve seam, which has the function of increasing the natural bending of one sleeve so as to achieve the bending effect of two sleeves of one sleeve;
(12) Drawing a back sleeve seam;
(13) Adjusting the cuffs, wherein 0.6cm is arranged on the front cuffs;
(14) The back cuff is 1cm and the back is 0.4cm more than the front to reduce the eating amount of the back sleeve, because the eating amount is too much and is not easy to manufacture in the process; then connecting the front cuff and the rear cuff to form an actual cuff line;
wherein, the middle seam of the front and back clothes body and the sleeves is forward by 1.5cm; then, designing the front raglan sleeve according to the mutual borrowing principle of the front sleeve and the front clothing body, wherein the method comprises the following steps:
(1) 7.4cm from the side armholes of the front coat body are taken as alignment points;
(2) 0.8cm horizontally from the front shoulder end point and 0.3cm upwards to form a butt joint position with the sleeve;
(3) The front sleeve bottom is sewn 7.7cm as a sleeve pair point;
(4) The front sleeves are in butt joint with the front coat body according to the butt joint point, so that the sleeves and the coat body are connected together, and the air volume in the middle of the armholes is the increased activity of the raglan sleeves;
(5) Before drawing the shoulder line, drawing the shoulder line from the position 5cm below the neck and shoulder points to the armhole, wherein the line is slightly curved along the nature, and the attention is paid to the fact that the coat body is natural and smooth and cannot be too concave at the armhole after the shoulder line is drawn;
(6) The natural circle is followed by the raglan sleeve line of the sleeve part;
(7) Designing a front sleeve displacement rotating point, taking a shoulder end point as a vertical front inserting shoulder line, taking the inserting shoulder line as a vertical upward 4.2 rotating center point, intersecting the inserting shoulder line to the shoulder end point, and setting a folding amount of 0.4cm on the front inserting shoulder line;
(8) Displacement line of front sleeve;
wherein the design of the rear raglan sleeve comprises the following steps:
(1) The back piece body is sewn into 6.5cm from the side to be a counterpoint;
(2) 6.8cm of rear sleeve is taken as a counterpoint;
(3) The back shoulder end point is horizontally moved out by 0.8cm and then is moved up by 0.5cm to be a butt joint position with the sleeve;
(4) The back sleeve and the back coat body are connected with the upper opposite points according to the opposite points of the armholes, the overlapping amount of the back sleeve arch and the back armholes at the back width is controlled below 0.5cm, and if the back sleeve arch and the back armholes are too much overlapped, the back sleeve arch and the back coat body are treated by adjusting the heights of the armhole opposite points;
(5) Drawing a rear shoulder line 3cm into the rear collar, and taking care that the rear shoulder line is slightly arched and drawn into the sleeve hole;
(6) After drawing, sleeve lines are inserted, and the back shoulder blade is carefully added with 0.5cm to meet the requirement of protrusion of the back shoulder blade;
(7) Setting the release line of the shoulder end point after design, and setting the release amount to be 0.5cm;
(8) After design, the feeding position of the sleeve suture is 21cm from the shoulder end point and the feeding amount is 0.5cm;
the method for designing the front raglan sleeve in detail by using the displacement method principle of structural mechanics comprises the following steps:
(1) Taking the rotation point as the center, folding the front sleeve shoulder seam by 0.4cm, opening the sleeve middle seam by 0.5cm, changing the position of structural mechanics and the vertical force direction of the sleeve through ingenious rotation, and enabling the sleeve to naturally face forwards;
(2) Releasing 1cm to change the vertical force direction of the raglan sleeve and increase the natural forward force of the raglan sleeve;
(3) 1.2cm on the midline of the front cuff to keep the sleeve length unchanged;
(4) 0.5cm over the front cuff suture to weaken the slope of the front cuff;
(5) 0.5cm is reserved at the front sleeve fertilizer point, and 0.5cm is folded on the front sleeve fertilizer point; the sleeve is further arranged at 0.5cm, because the sleeve opening is arranged at 0.5cm, the length of the sleeve bottom seam is kept unchanged, and meanwhile, in order to increase the displacement rotation force of the front sleeve, the sleeve type patch is more natural and is more attractive after the sleeve type patch is not biased forwards;
wherein the shearing open amount of the rear raglan sleeve comprises the following steps:
(1) The shearing opening is 0.5cm to be the sewing amount of the middle seam of the rear sleeve, so that the rear sleeve is loose and front, and the front sleeve can naturally move forwards without deviation;
(2) The back sleeve elbow line is cut for 0.5cm to increase the amount of the suture at the back sleeve elbow line, and the back tightness and the front tightness of the sleeve are increased, so that the back sleeve elbow line can naturally move forwards without deviation;
setting an alignment knife edge of the raglan sleeve to control the stuttering position and stuttering amount of the raglan sleeve; the direction of the oversleeve silk thread is set, the front sleeve silk thread is on the basis of the sleeve central line, the front sleeve silk thread is forward inclined by 4cm to be the actual silk thread, and the rear oversleeve silk thread is parallel to the front sleeve silk thread.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911130676.1A CN111096510B (en) | 2019-11-08 | 2019-11-08 | Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911130676.1A CN111096510B (en) | 2019-11-08 | 2019-11-08 | Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN111096510A CN111096510A (en) | 2020-05-05 |
| CN111096510B true CN111096510B (en) | 2023-09-01 |
Family
ID=70420659
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911130676.1A Active CN111096510B (en) | 2019-11-08 | 2019-11-08 | Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN111096510B (en) |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
| CN108741344A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-11-06 | 上海璞利服饰有限公司 | It is a kind of control sleeve forward leaning angle sleeve-matching method and its preparation with sleeve |
-
2019
- 2019-11-08 CN CN201911130676.1A patent/CN111096510B/en active Active
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
| CN108741344A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-11-06 | 上海璞利服饰有限公司 | It is a kind of control sleeve forward leaning angle sleeve-matching method and its preparation with sleeve |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| 基于新女上装基型的配袖;周福英等;《天津纺织科技》;20130815(第03期);全文 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN111096510A (en) | 2020-05-05 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN110693119B (en) | Pattern making and sleeve matching method for raglan sleeve clothing | |
| CN108634459B (en) | Female jacket sample plate generation method based on 3D human body measurement data | |
| CN101653295B (en) | Improved clothes and tailoring thereof | |
| CN105455277B (en) | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing | |
| Kiisel | Draping | |
| CN101278765A (en) | Clothing bias cutting method | |
| CN105661722A (en) | Huian woman coat tailoring method | |
| CN106360812B (en) | A kind of preparation method of Tang's formula blouse | |
| CN113100511B (en) | Chinese dress non-provincial cutting technique | |
| CN112401333B (en) | Preparation method of silk lining-free suit for men and silk lining-free suit for men | |
| CN110179193B (en) | Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar | |
| CN108629071A (en) | Cutting spread pattern is converted into the method for transformation and sweater knitting equipment of product face sheet needed for lower several process softwares | |
| CN111096510B (en) | Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method | |
| Lo | Pattern cutting | |
| CN108523286B (en) | Sleeve angle control and accurate sleeve matching method | |
| JPH08504003A (en) | How to design a three-dimensional paper pattern for a piece of clothing with sleeves | |
| CN111802736A (en) | Method for making square-angle armhole and connecting-collar female cheongsam | |
| CN108741358A (en) | A kind of clothes three are made a slit or vent cutting and method of sewing | |
| CN109349695A (en) | A kind of production method of the inserted clothes of split head | |
| CN1703988B (en) | Paper folding costume fent method | |
| CN114836907A (en) | Combined template for sewing front piece of western-style clothes | |
| CN107156942A (en) | A kind of T-shaped planar structure nil waste clothes | |
| CN206836231U (en) | A kind of T-shaped planar structure nil waste clothes | |
| JP2001011721A (en) | Steric drawing of dress pattern | |
| CN206542924U (en) | A kind of new Tang's formula blouse |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant |