CN110179193B - Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar - Google Patents
Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar Download PDFInfo
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- CN110179193B CN110179193B CN201910474180.XA CN201910474180A CN110179193B CN 110179193 B CN110179193 B CN 110179193B CN 201910474180 A CN201910474180 A CN 201910474180A CN 110179193 B CN110179193 B CN 110179193B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/02—Jackets
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/18—Cloth collars
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D3/00—Overgarments
- A41D3/02—Overcoats
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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Abstract
The invention discloses a plate making method of a one-piece lapel collar, which comprises the following steps: extending 0.8a from the front collar width point S to a point N along the shoulder slope line, connecting the point N with the point M, and determining an original folding line MN; reasonably designing the shape of a lapel, simultaneously fetching b to P from the point N along the shoulder slope, reasonably designing the shape of the front lapel by taking the point P as a reference, and determining a serial port line QT; taking the length c from the point Q to the point T along the serial port line to obtain a point O, connecting the point O with the point N, determining a lapel fold line ON, connecting the point O with the point M, and determining a lapel fold line OM; taking the lapel folding line as a mirror image of the lapel to obtain the lapel; taking the lapel fold line as a center to be used as a mirror image of the front collar to obtain a mirror image P ' of a point P, and connecting the point P with the point P ' to determine a shoulder seam point connecting line PP '; making a parallel line of the lapel fold line to obtain a lapel line O 'N'; the extended lapel edge OT' intersects with the lapel line at the point C, and an arc line is formed between the point C and the point S to obtain a front neckline. The lapel is beautiful.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment plate making, and particularly relates to a plate making method for a one-piece lapel.
Background
The beauty and the fitting degree of the collar form of the clothes with lapel collars, such as western-style clothes and overcoat, are important factors for determining the type of the clothes.
The lapel is composed of a lapel and a lapel, wherein the lapel is a basic structure of a plain collar with a straight-line-shaped folding line, the size and the shape of the collar are designed in a modeling mode, and the reasonability of the structure of the collar is not affected. The turndown collar is a form of the connected rabbet collar with the comprehensive characteristics of the rabbet collar and the plain collar, the curvature of the bottom line of the collar is an important factor for determining the three-dimensional shape and the structural rationality of the whole turndown collar, and the size of the lodging amount is a key for determining the curvature of the bottom line of the collar. The size of the lodging quantity is mainly determined by the difference value between the collar surface of the lapel and the collar base and the position of the lapel.
In order to ensure the lodging amount of the lapel, the collar seat and the collar surface of the lapel are split into plates and then are spliced to form the two-piece lapel at present. The two-piece lapel has the advantages that the appearance is attractive, the lapel is troublesome to manufacture, the collar seat and the collar surface are required to be designed and cut independently, sewing is additionally carried out on the collar seat and the lapel, and meanwhile, certain pressure can be caused to the neck of a wearer by the thick and heavy design of the collar seat, so that the wearer feels uncomfortable.
For example, a chinese patent application with an application number of cn201810679012.x discloses a western style suit lapel structure drawing method, which includes: defining the base height of a collar, the lapel height of b and the arc length of a back collar as k, and then performing the following steps: drawing a right-angled triangle by taking lengths a + B and k as two right-angled sides, marking a number B at the right-angled vertex, marking an acute-angled vertex where the length of k is positioned with a number S, and marking an acute-angled vertex where the length of a + B is positioned with a number A, and cutting the triangle to be used as a triangle template for later use; extending 0.7a to N points from the front neck width point S along a shoulder slope line in the structure diagram of the coat body, connecting N with the barge point M to determine a barge line, and making a parallel line M 'N' with the distance of 1cm from MN; the S top point of the triangular template in the step I is coincided with the point S in the clothing body structure diagram in the step II, the point B is kept at the left side of the point S, the triangular template is rotated until the point A on the triangular template falls on the line M 'N', and then the positions of the two points A, B are determined, namely the position of the middle line of the back collar is determined; designing the angle and size of the serial line, the width of the barge head, the position D of the top collar stop, the size DE of the top collar mouth and the intersection point C of the serial line and the bottom collar mouth reasonably according to the style requirements and the sizes of a and b; and fifthly, connecting the collar outer opening AE and the collar lower opening BC smoothly and connecting AB, DE and CD linearly to obtain the structure chart of the lapel collar surface of the suit. A, B, translating inward to form points A 'and B', making the distance between segment AB/segment A 'B', segment AB/segment AA ', segment AB/segment BB', segment AB/, segment AB and segment A 'B' be 0.6cm, connecting the collar outer opening A 'E and the collar lower opening B' C in a circle, and connecting A 'B', DE and CD in a straight line, thus obtaining the structure chart of the lapel collar bottom of the western style suit.
The plate making method has the disadvantages that the lapel front collar and the lapel are obtained by mirroring according to the same lapel line (i.e. lapel line), so that the necklines of the lapel and the lapel are parallel to each other at the position of the serial line and no gap exists between the lapel and the lapel, and after the lapel and the lapel are sewn at the later stage, the front clothes body is easy to arch up and is not attached to the splicing position of the lapel and the lapel; and the outer neck opening of the lapel is not good in fitting degree with the back clothes body after being laid down.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a one-piece lapel making method which ensures that a front garment body is fitted and does not arch up at a splicing part of a lapel and a lapel, and an outer collar opening is more fitted with a rear garment body after being laid down.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical solution of the present application is as follows:
the plate making method of the one-piece lapel comprises the steps that the collar base height of the one-piece lapel is a, the collar face width is b, and the arc length of a back collar is k; the plate making method comprises the following steps:
(1) in the structure diagram of the clothes body, extending 0.6 a-0.8 a from a front collar width point S to a front transverse collar point N along a shoulder slope line, connecting the N point with a barge point M, and determining an original folding line MN;
(2) reasonably designing the shape of a lapel in the structure diagram of the clothes body, simultaneously retrieving b from the point N along a shoulder slope line to obtain a shoulder seam point P, reasonably designing the shape of a front collar in the structure diagram of the clothes body by taking the point P as a reference, and determining a serial port line QT;
(3) taking the length c from the point Q to the point T along the serial port line QT to obtain a point O, connecting the point O with the point N, determining a lapel fold line ON, connecting the point O with the point M, and determining a lapel fold line OM;
(4) taking the lapel folding line OM as a center to be used as a mirror image of the lapel to obtain a lapel structure; taking a lapel fold line ON as a mirror image of the front collar to obtain a mirror image point P ' of the shoulder seam point P, and connecting the point P with the point P ' to determine a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ';
(5) making a parallel line of the lapel fold line ON through the shoulder inclined line to obtain a lapel line O 'N', wherein the distance between the O 'N' and the ON is 0.9 a;
(6) the extended lapel edge OT' intersects with the lapel line at the point C, and an arc line is formed between the point C and the point S to obtain a front neckline.
The plate making method of the invention is based ON the traditional original folding line MN, and sets independent folding lines for the lapel and the lapel respectively, because the lapel folding line OM and the lapel folding line ON are not positioned ON the same straight line and are arranged in an obtuse angle, after the lapel edge OZ 'and the lapel edge OT' are respectively used as the center to be mirrored, the lapel edge OZ 'and the lapel edge OT' are not superposed, and the lapel are overlapped in a crossing way. When the lapel and the lapel are sewn, the lapel must be lifted, so that the edge OT 'of the lapel is overlapped with the edge OZ' of the lapel to form a serial line OT, under the mutual extrusion of the lapel and the lapel, the front clothes body at the joint of the lapel and the lapel is tensioned and does not arch, the lapel and the clothes body are more fitted, and the clothes body is more fitted with the human body; meanwhile, under the extrusion of the lapel, even if the collar seat is not independently arranged, the outer collar opening of the lapel can still keep a stiff and smooth shape, the boundary between the collar seat and the collar surface is clear, and the collar surface is not deformed and does not tilt.
Meanwhile, compared with the traditional two-piece lapel collar, the sewing time of the one-piece lapel collar is saved by at least 5 min/piece, the labor price is saved by at least 1.8 yuan/piece, and the purposes of optimizing the process and saving the cost are achieved.
Preferably, in the one-piece lapel plate making method, in step (1), the N dot is spaced from the S dot by 0.7 a.
In the one-piece lapel plate making method, in the step (4), c is 0.1-0.3cm for lapel fabrics with the thickness of less than or equal to 0.2 cm; and c is 0.3-0.5cm for the lapel fabric with the thickness of more than 0.2 cm.
The size of c has no direct relation with a, b and k, and the lapel fold line are arranged in an angle mode, so that the neckline of the lapel fold line is slightly diamond-shaped, and the lapel fold line is more attractive and stereoscopic when being displayed on a human body. If c is too short, the purpose of tightening the front garment body cannot be achieved, and if c is too large, the collar-lapel outer opening cannot fit the rear garment body.
Preferably, in the above one-piece lapel plate making method, in step (4), c is 0.3 mm.
In the above plate making method for one-piece lapel collar, in the step (5), the lapel fold line ON 'N' is spaced from the lapel fold line ON by 0.9 a.
After the lapel structure and the lapel front collar structure are completed, the lapel rear collar structure needs to be manufactured continuously. Therefore, the plate making method of the one-piece lapel further comprises the following steps:
(7) extending a + b to a point W from an intersection point R of a lapel line O ' N ' and a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ' along the lapel line O ' N ', drawing a perpendicular line of the lapel line to a point U through the point W towards one side of the garment body structure, wherein the length of the perpendicular line is (a + b)/1.6(b-a), and connecting the point R with the point U;
(8) extending 0.5k to B point along RU line from R point, and making arc line between B point and C point to obtain neckline lower opening line;
(9) making a vertical line of the RU line from a point B to a point A on one side back to the clothes body structure, wherein the length of the vertical line is a + B; and drawing a vertical line AE of the line AB from the point A toward the front collar side, and drawing an arc line between the vertical line AE and the line segment P ' D ' between the point A and the point D ' of the collar corner to obtain a collar outer opening line.
The manufacturing process of the back collar structure is started from an intersection point R of a lapel line O 'N' and a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ', and the position of the shoulder seam point connecting line PP' is determined by a lapel fold line ON, so that the arrangement of the lapel fold line is also important for the formation of the back collar structure and is a key factor for influencing the positions and the forms of a collar base line and a collar outer opening line and determining a back collar fold angle.
Therefore, the adduction distance c of the lapel fold line relative to the original lapel line cannot be too large, the back lapel fold line is not smooth due to too large c, the lapel shape is strange, the gap between the back lapel fold line and the neck of a person is too small, and the wearing comfort level is low; c cannot be too small, so that too large gap between the back collar fold line and the neck of a person can be caused by too small c, and the wearing comfort is low.
The back collar structure manufactured through the steps (8) - (10) has the advantages that the gap between the back collar fold line and the neck of a person is proper, the fold line is smooth in shape, the collar surface is full and natural, and the collar outer opening line is naturally attached to the back clothes body in an ironing mode.
The invention also provides the one-piece lapel manufactured by the plate making method of the one-piece lapel.
The invention also provides a garment, which comprises the lapel collar, wherein the lapel collar is the one-piece lapel collar; the garment can be a suit or a coat.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) the plate making method of the invention is based ON the traditional original folding line MN, and sets independent folding lines for the lapel and the lapel respectively, because the lapel folding line OM and the lapel folding line ON are not positioned ON the same straight line and are arranged in an obtuse angle, after the lapel edge OZ 'and the lapel edge OT' are respectively used as the center to be mirrored, the lapel edge OZ 'and the lapel edge OT' are not superposed, and the lapel are overlapped in a crossing way. When the lapel and the lapel are sewn, the lapel must be lifted, so that the edge OT 'of the lapel is overlapped with the edge OZ' of the lapel to form a serial line OT, under the mutual extrusion of the lapel and the lapel, the front clothes body at the joint of the lapel and the lapel is tensioned and does not arch, the lapel and the clothes body are more fitted, and the clothes body is more fitted with the human body; meanwhile, under the extrusion of the lapel, even if the collar seat is not independently arranged, the outer collar opening of the lapel can still keep a stiff and smooth shape, the boundary between the collar seat and the collar surface is clear, and the collar surface is not deformed and does not tilt.
(2) Compared with the traditional two-piece lapel, the sewing time of the one-piece lapel is saved by at least 5 min/piece, the labor price is saved by at least 1.8 yuan/piece, and the purposes of optimizing the process and saving the cost are achieved.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic structural view of a one-piece lapel collar of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solution of the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings and the detailed description.
Example 1
As shown in fig. 1, the plate making method of the one-piece lapel collar of the present embodiment includes the following steps:
(1) defining the height of a collar base of the one-piece lapel collar as 3.5cm, the width of a collar face as 5.5cm, the length of a back collar arc as k and the length unit as cm;
in the structure diagram of the clothes body, extending 0.7a from a front neck width point S to a front transverse open neck point N (namely the length of a line segment NS is 0.7a) along a shoulder slope line, connecting the N point with a connecting point M, and determining an original folding line MN;
randomly extending the original folding line MN to serve as a basic line of the plate making;
(2) reasonably designing the shape of a lapel in a coat body structure diagram, simultaneously retrieving b from a point N along a shoulder slope line to obtain a shoulder seam point P (namely the length of a line segment NP is b), reasonably designing the shape of a front collar in the coat body structure diagram by taking the point P as a reference, and determining a serial port line QT;
(3) taking c from the point Q to the point T along a serial port line QT to be 0.3cm to obtain a point O (namely the length of a line segment OQ is 0.3cm), connecting the point O with the point N, determining a lapel fold line ON, connecting the point O with the point M, and determining a lapel fold line OM;
(4) taking the lapel folding line OM as a center to be used as a mirror image of the lapel to obtain a lapel structure; taking a lapel fold line ON as a mirror image of the front collar to obtain a mirror image point P ' of the shoulder seam point P, and connecting the point P with the point P ' to determine a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ';
(5) making a parallel line of the lapel fold line ON through the shoulder inclined line to obtain a lapel line O 'N', wherein the distance between the O 'N' and the ON is 0.9 a;
(6) the extended lapel edge OT ' and the lapel line O ' N ' are intersected at a point C, and an arc line is formed between the point C and the point S to obtain a front collar line;
(7) extending a + b to a point W from an intersection point R of a lapel line O ' N ' and a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ' along the lapel line O ' N ', drawing a perpendicular line of the lapel line to a point U through the point W towards one side of the garment body structure, wherein the length of the perpendicular line is (a + b)/1.6(b-a), and connecting the point R with the point U;
(8) extending 0.5k to B along RU line from R, making arc line between B and C, and respectively tangent to RU line and CS line to obtain neckline BC;
(9) making a vertical line of the RU line from a point B to a point A on one side back to the clothes body structure, wherein the length of the vertical line is a + B; and drawing a vertical line AE of the line AB from the point A toward the front collar side, and drawing an arc line between the vertical line AE and the line segment P 'D' between the point A and the point D 'of the collar corner to obtain a collar outer opening line AD'.
After the lapel structure is manufactured, an arc line is formed between a point P (which is coincident with a point P on the shoulder slope of the front piece) and a point G on the back piece of the clothes body along a back central line FH from the point F to the point G by 0.5(a + b). The length and shape of the neckline AD' are verified as appropriate using the arc P "G and the arc PD.
In principle, the length of the collar outside line AD 'is more than or equal to the sum of the lengths of the arc line P' G and the arc line PD, wherein for the shell fabric without elasticity, the length of the collar outside line AD 'is equal to the sum of the lengths of the arc line P' G and the arc line PD; for the elastic fabric, the length of the collar outside line AD 'can be larger than the sum of the lengths of the arc line P' G and the arc line PD, but the length difference is not more than 0.5 cm.
And after the lapel is turned over, the collar outer opening line AD 'is superposed with the arc P' G on the back piece of the clothes body, and the length of the line segment S 'P' is consistent with that of the line segment SP.
Claims (10)
1. The plate making method of the one-piece lapel comprises the steps that the collar base height of the one-piece lapel is a, the collar face width is b, and the arc length of a back collar is k; the method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) in the structure diagram of the clothes body, extending 0.6 a-0.8 a from a front collar width point S to a front transverse collar point N along a shoulder slope line, connecting the N point with a barge point M, and determining an original folding line MN;
(2) reasonably designing a lapel shape QMZ in the coat body structure diagram, simultaneously retrieving b from an N point along a shoulder slope line to obtain a shoulder seam point P, reasonably designing a front collar shape QNPDT in the coat body structure diagram by taking the P point as a reference, and determining a serial port line QT;
(3) taking the length c from the point Q to the point T along the serial port line QT to obtain a point O, connecting the point O with the point N, determining a lapel fold line ON, connecting the point O with the point M, and determining a lapel fold line OM;
(4) taking the lapel fold line OM as a center to be used as a lapel mirror image to obtain a lapel structure OMZ'; taking a lapel fold line ON as a mirror image of the front collar to obtain a front collar structure ONP 'D' T ', obtain a mirror image point P' of the shoulder seam point P, and connecting the point P with the point P 'to determine a shoulder seam point connecting line PP';
(5) making a parallel line of the lapel fold line ON through the shoulder inclined line to obtain a lapel line O 'N';
(6) the extended lapel edge OT' intersects with the lapel line at a point C, and an arc line is formed between the point C and the point S to obtain a front neckline CS.
2. The plate-making method of one-piece lapel as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step (1), the distance between the point N and the point S is 0.7 a.
3. The plate making method of one-piece lapel as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the step (3), c is 0.1-0.3cm for lapel fabrics having a thickness of 0.2cm or less.
4. The plate-making method of one-piece lapel as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step (3), c is 0.3-0.5cm for lapel fabrics with a thickness greater than 0.2 cm.
5. The plate-making method of one-piece lapel as claimed in claim 3 or 4, wherein in step (3), c is 0.3 cm.
6. The plate-making method of one-piece lapel collar of claim 1, wherein in step (5), the lapel fold line ON 'N' is spaced from the lapel fold line ON by 0.9 a.
7. The plate-making method of one-piece lapel as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 and 6, further comprising:
(7) extending a + b to a point W from an intersection point R of a lapel line O ' N ' and a shoulder seam point connecting line PP ' along the lapel line O ' N ', drawing a perpendicular line of the lapel line to a point U through the point W towards one side of the garment body structure, wherein the length of the perpendicular line is (a + b)/1.6(b-a), and connecting the point R with the point U;
(8) extending 0.5k to B along RU line from R, and making arc line between B and C to obtain lower neckline BC;
(9) making a vertical line of the RU line from a point B to a point A on one side back to the clothes body structure, wherein the length of the vertical line is a + B; and drawing a vertical line AE of the line AB from the point A toward the front collar side, and drawing an arc line between the vertical line AE and the line segment P 'D' between the point A and the point D 'of the collar corner to obtain a collar outer opening line AD'.
8. A one-piece lapel characterized by being produced by the method for making a plate of the one-piece lapel according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. A garment comprising a lapel collar, wherein said lapel collar is a one-piece lapel collar as claimed in claim 8.
10. The garment of claim 9, being a suit or an overcoat.
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| CN201910474180.XA CN110179193B (en) | 2019-05-31 | 2019-05-31 | Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar |
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| CN201910474180.XA CN110179193B (en) | 2019-05-31 | 2019-05-31 | Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar |
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| CN110179193B true CN110179193B (en) | 2020-10-09 |
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Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN110881730A (en) * | 2019-12-31 | 2020-03-17 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Collar matching method applied to student uniform and structure of student uniform assembled collar body |
| CN113576086A (en) * | 2020-04-30 | 2021-11-02 | 长春工程学院 | Folding collar structure design method |
| CN112137212B (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2022-09-23 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
Family Cites Families (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SU1140747A2 (en) * | 1982-12-30 | 1985-02-23 | Всесоюзный заочный институт текстильной и легкой промышленности | Method of making the template for man's jacket collar |
| FR2671699A1 (en) * | 1991-01-21 | 1992-07-24 | Montalto Antonello | Novel method intended for the production of garments and its implementation |
| CN1098610A (en) * | 1993-08-09 | 1995-02-15 | 杨海峰 | The formation of garment collar type and changing skill |
| JP2015057523A (en) * | 2014-11-07 | 2015-03-26 | 佳子 岩下 | Four end sewing work method for tailored jacket gorge line part, and tailored jacket produced by the same |
| CN105996265B (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2017-12-12 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar |
| CN107006927B (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2018-07-10 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar method for platemaking and Western-style clothes |
| CN108813775B (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2020-04-28 | 烟台南山学院 | Drawing method for lapel structure of suit |
| CN108991637A (en) * | 2018-07-06 | 2018-12-14 | 烟台南山学院 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
| CN109497644B (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2020-10-16 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for manufacturing female suit collar |
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