CN105996265B - A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar - Google Patents
A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar Download PDFInfo
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- CN105996265B CN105996265B CN201610396546.2A CN201610396546A CN105996265B CN 105996265 B CN105996265 B CN 105996265B CN 201610396546 A CN201610396546 A CN 201610396546A CN 105996265 B CN105996265 B CN 105996265B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar, using following making step：Half basis neck template ABNOM is according to the front cut pieces and the neckline shape of rear garment piece that mutually suture and roll line line PZ positions, roll line line PZ is extended into friendship neck center line AB in Q points, then AQZOM is lapel, and QBNZ leads for seat；ABNOM is cut off along Q ' Z ' lines, it is divided into AQ ' Z ' OM templates and Q ' BNZ ' templates, cut off along the CI lines in AQ ' Z ' OM and EV lines, in I, V points both sides pressure 2mm respectively inwards, AH camber lines are outwards dialled, cut off again along the ID lines in Q ' BNZ ' and VF lines, in I, V points both sides pressure 2mm respectively inwards, keep BN length constant, present invention behaviour does simple in construction, have a wide range of applications effect, it can be widely used in the military of each enterprise's production, industry, foreign trade and the neck portion of civilian western-style clothes class clothes, solves lapel neck portion irregularity, the problem of neck is not embraced.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar, belong to garment technology field.
Background technology
Turndown collar clothes are the popular clothes for preferring dress in formal occasion, and business wear is used as in numerous industries,
The neck portion moulding of turndown collar is most important structure member in clothes, is sutured at its neck nest with clothes, in neck and shoulder
Portion's transition, neck can be protected and there is beautiful decoration.But collar does not integrally embrace neck after current turndown collar dress,
Peace of not being convinced is suitable, influences product quality.
The content of the invention
The technical problems to be solved by the invention make collar embrace neck, the turndown collar garment collar of smooth-going after being to provide a kind of dress
The plate-making method of son.
The present invention adopts the following technical scheme that：
The plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar of the present invention, using following making step：
The front cut pieces and the neckline shape of rear garment piece and roll line line PZ positions that the first step, foundation mutually suture do half base
Plinth leads template ABNOM, in the neck template ABNOM of basis：For AM to lead outer mouth line, BN is inner collar mouth line, leads outer mouth line AM and clothing body
The intersection point of shoulder line, which is handed over, leads outer mouth line AM in H points；The rear dorsal suture summit of rear garment piece is R points, and the end points of the shoulder line of rear garment piece is K points,
The neckline forward terminal of front cut pieces is L points；
Second step, line：Template ABNOM neck center line is led based on AB lines, roll line line PZ is extended and hands over neck center line AB in Q
Point, then AQZOM is lapel, and QBNZ leads for seat；
C, E point are taken on AH lines, makes AC=CE=EH；Neck center line AB is handed over to cross in Q ' points and make QZ's at Q ' along the downward 1cm of Q points
Parallel lines hand over ON in Z ' points；
The parallel lines that C, E point make AB are crossed respectively, hand over Q ' Z ' lines to hand over BN lines in D, F point in I, V point；
Sewed on along the rear downward 1cm of dorsal suture summit R in the back of rear garment piece and do X points, lapel AQZOM upsets, lead outer mouth line AM
Intersection point with rear garment piece shoulder line is Y points, then KY=HL；Draw and match along XY camber lines, XY camber lines with AH camber line radians, then camber line XY
For the neck collar extension camber line on rear garment piece；
3rd step, cut：ABNOM is cut off along Q ' Z ' lines, it is divided into AQ ' Z ' OM templates and Q ' BNZ ' templates, then edge
CI lines and EV lines in AQ ' Z ' OM are cut off, and are finally cut off again along the ID lines in Q ' BNZ ' and VF lines；
4th step, pressure：I point both sides in AQ ' Z ' OM templates and V points both sides after cutting off pressure 2mm respectively inwards,
AH camber lines are outwards dialled, make the AH arc lengths and neck collar extension camber line XY equal lengths outwards pulled out, complete lapel AQ ' Z ' OM system
Plate；
I point both sides and V points both sides pressure 2mm, while keep BN's respectively inwards in Q ' BNZ ' templates after cutting off
Length is constant, completes seat neck Q ' BNZ ' making sheet.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows：In the downward 1cm clips of roll line line of the basic neck of the present invention, collar after suture can be made
On collar of the suture not after turnover, I point both sides in AQ ' Z ' OM templates and the pressure respectively inwards of V points both sides after cutting off
2mm, lapel base is inwardly received, AH camber lines are outwards dialled, the neck collar extension camber line of new lapel template and reality on rear garment piece can be made
The neck collar extension arc length to be reached is consistent, the clothing collar smooth-going so after ready-made clothes, embraces neck, makes collar overall appearance, this
Invent it is easy to operate, it is simple in construction, have a wide range of applications effect, can be widely used in the military of each enterprise production, industry, outer
Trade and the neck portion of civilian western-style clothes class clothes, solve lapel neck portion irregularity, do not embrace the problem of neck.
Brief description of the drawings
Accompanying drawing 1 leads formwork structure schematic diagram for present invention basis；
Accompanying drawing 2 is lapel AQ ' Z ' OM structural representations of the present invention；
Accompanying drawing 3 is that seat of the present invention leads Q ' BNZ ' structural representations；
Accompanying drawing 4 is front cut pieces structural representation of the present invention；
Accompanying drawing 5 is rear garment piece structural representation of the present invention.
Embodiment
As shown in accompanying drawing 1-5, the present invention uses following making sheet step：
The front cut pieces 1 and the neckline shape of rear garment piece 2 and roll line line PZ positions that the first step, foundation mutually suture do half
Basis neck template ABNOM, in the neck template ABNOM of basis：For AM to lead outer mouth line, BN is inner collar mouth line, leads outer mouth line AM and clothing
The intersection point of body shoulder line, which is handed over, leads outer mouth line AM in H points；The rear dorsal suture summit of rear garment piece 2 is R points, and the end points of the shoulder line of rear garment piece 2 is K
Point, the neckline forward terminal of front cut pieces 1 is L points；
Second step, line：Template ABNOM neck center line is led based on AB lines, roll line line PZ is extended and hands over neck center line AB in Q
Point, then AQZOM is lapel, and QBNZ leads for seat；
C, E point are taken on AH lines, makes AC=CE=EH；Neck center line AB is handed over to cross in Q ' points and make QZ's at Q ' along the downward 1cm of Q points
Parallel lines hand over ON in Z ' points；
The parallel lines that C, E point make AB are crossed respectively, hand over Q ' Z ' lines to hand over BN lines in D, F point in I, V point；
Sewed on along the rear downward 1cm of dorsal suture summit R in the back of rear garment piece 2 and do X points, lapel AQZOM upsets, lead outer mouth line AM
Intersection point with the shoulder line of rear garment piece 2 is Y points, then KY=HL；Draw and match along XY camber lines, XY camber lines with AM camber line radians, then camber line XY
For the neck collar extension camber line on rear garment piece 2；
3rd step, cut：ABNOM is cut off along Q ' Z ' lines, it is divided into AQ ' Z ' OM templates and Q ' BNZ ' templates, then edge
CI lines and EV lines in AQ ' Z ' OM are cut off, and are finally cut off again along the ID lines in Q ' BNZ ' and VF lines；
4th step, pressure：I point both sides in AQ ' Z ' OM templates and V points both sides after cutting off pressure 2mm respectively inwards,
Can so make lapel turn at over-lapping stitch back neck in receive and meet human body, AH camber lines are outwards dialled, make the AH arc lengths outwards pulled out with
Collar extension camber line XY equal lengths are led, complete lapel AQ ' Z ' OM making sheet；
I point both sides and V points both sides in Q ' BNZ ' templates after cutting off pressure 2mm respectively inwards, can so lead seat
Turn over to receive at over-lapping stitch back neck and meet human body, because BN length sutures back neck arc length for front cut pieces 1 and rear garment piece 2, keep
BN length is constant, completes seat neck Q ' BNZ ' making sheet.
In the downward 1cm clips of roll line line of the basic neck of the present invention, neck of the suture of collar after suture not after turnover can be made
On son, I point both sides in AQ ' Z ' OM templates and V points both sides after cutting off pressure 2mm respectively inwards, make lapel base inside
Receive, AH camber lines are outwards dialled, the neck collar extension camber line of new lapel template and the neck collar extension camber line for being actually subjected to reach on rear garment piece can be made
Length is consistent, and cutting collar of the collar of sewing after ready-made clothes according to template of the present invention smoothes out, armful neck, collar overall appearance, this
Invent it is easy to operate, it is simple in construction, have a wide range of applications effect, can be widely used in the military of each enterprise production, industry, outer
Trade and the neck portion of civilian western-style clothes class clothes, solve lapel neck portion irregularity, do not embrace the problem of neck.
Embodiment described above is only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the simultaneously exhaustion of non-invention possible embodiments.
For persons skilled in the art, to any aobvious made by it on the premise of without departing substantially from the principle of the invention and spirit
And the change being clear to, it should all be contemplated as falling with the claims of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. a kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar, it is characterised in that use following making step：
The front cut pieces that the first step, foundation mutually suture（1）And rear garment piece（2）Neckline shape and roll line line PZ positions do half
Basis neck template ABNOM, in the neck template ABNOM of basis：For AM to lead outer mouth line, BN is inner collar mouth line, leads outer mouth line AM and clothing
The intersection point of body shoulder line, which is handed over, leads outer mouth line AM in H points；Rear garment piece（2）Rear dorsal suture summit be R points, rear garment piece（2）Shoulder line end
Point is K points, front cut pieces（1）Neckline forward terminal be L points；
Second step, line：Template ABNOM neck center line is led based on AB lines, roll line line PZ is extended and hands over neck center line AB in Q points,
Then AQZOM is lapel, and QBNZ leads for seat；
C, E point are taken on AH lines, makes AC=CE=EH；Neck center line AB is handed over to cross in Q ' points and make the parallel of QZ at Q ' along the downward 1cm of Q points
Line hands over ON in Z ' points；
The parallel lines that C, E point make AB are crossed respectively, hand over Q ' Z ' lines to hand over BN lines in D, F point in I, V point；
Along the rear downward 1cm of dorsal suture summit R in rear garment piece（2）Back sew on and do X points, lapel AQZOM upsets, lead outer mouth line AM and
Rear garment piece（2）The intersection point of shoulder line is Y points, then KY=HL；Draw along XY camber lines, measure XY arc lengths；XY camber lines and AH camber line radians
Match, then camber line XY is rear garment piece（2）On neck collar extension camber line；
3rd step, cut：ABNOM is cut off along Q ' Z ' lines, it is divided into AQ ' Z ' OM templates and Q ' BNZ ' templates, then along AQ ' Z '
CI lines and EV lines in OM are cut off, and are finally cut off again along the ID lines in Q ' BNZ ' and VF lines；
4th step, neck internal orifice pressure neck collar extension unplug：I point both sides in AQ ' Z ' OM templates and V points both sides difference after cutting off
Inside pressure 2mm, the C point both sides in AH camber lines and E points both sides is accordingly unpluged respectively, the length unpluged is with AH arc length
Equal to the XY arc lengths measured, lapel AQ ' Z ' OM making sheet is completed "；
I point both sides and V points both sides pressure 2mm, while keep BN length respectively inwards in Q ' BNZ ' templates after cutting off
It is constant, complete seat neck Q ' BNZ ' making sheet.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201610396546.2A CN105996265B (en) | 2016-06-07 | 2016-06-07 | A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201610396546.2A CN105996265B (en) | 2016-06-07 | 2016-06-07 | A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN105996265A CN105996265A (en) | 2016-10-12 |
| CN105996265B true CN105996265B (en) | 2017-12-12 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201610396546.2A Active CN105996265B (en) | 2016-06-07 | 2016-06-07 | A kind of plate-making method of turndown collar clothing collar |
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Families Citing this family (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107006927B (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2018-07-10 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar method for platemaking and Western-style clothes |
| CN107006898B (en) * | 2017-03-31 | 2018-10-26 | 西京学院 | A kind of cutting of western-style clothes collar and sewing tech method |
| CN108576994A (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2018-09-28 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of collar |
| CN108813775B (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2020-04-28 | 烟台南山学院 | Drawing method for lapel structure of suit |
| CN108991637A (en) * | 2018-07-06 | 2018-12-14 | 烟台南山学院 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
| CN108634392B (en) * | 2018-07-27 | 2023-10-20 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Manufacturing method of lapel collar corner of high-grade shirt |
| CN111685402A (en) * | 2019-03-15 | 2020-09-22 | 上海菲姿服饰有限公司 | Structure and method for effectively preventing inside layer of front neckline of one-piece dress from being turned outwards |
| CN110179193B (en) * | 2019-05-31 | 2020-10-09 | 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 | Plate making method for one-piece lapel collar |
| CN110558659B (en) * | 2019-09-23 | 2023-08-25 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Unconventional large lapel garment platemaking collar matching method |
| CN116133547A (en) * | 2020-10-16 | 2023-05-16 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Collar jacket |
| CN112107060A (en) * | 2020-10-20 | 2020-12-22 | 江苏卡思迪莱服饰有限公司 | Method for manufacturing fur collar fixing structure plate |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1218648A (en) * | 1997-11-29 | 1999-06-09 | 房世鹏 | Multifunctional collar fitting method |
| WO2009125487A1 (en) * | 2008-04-10 | 2009-10-15 | 株式会社アシックス | Coat |
| JP5377950B2 (en) * | 2008-12-19 | 2013-12-25 | メルボ紳士服工業株式会社 | Upper garment |
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