CN104397918B - A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing - Google Patents
A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN104397918B CN104397918B CN201410615060.4A CN201410615060A CN104397918B CN 104397918 B CN104397918 B CN 104397918B CN 201410615060 A CN201410615060 A CN 201410615060A CN 104397918 B CN104397918 B CN 104397918B
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- point
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- sleeve
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- rear panel
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making and method of sewing of jacket class another garment sleeve, method for platemaking, adopt following steps: the anter of cutting clothes and rear panel; Anter is split, is placed into rear panel shoulder upper end, does BL BUST LINE; Make across back line, do cap arc line and be large sleeve cut-off rule TT1 and little sleeve cut-off rule TT2, connect Y1T1 and G1T2, then Y1T1 is large sleeve cuff line, and G1T2 is little sleeve cuff line; The method of sewing of jacket class another garment sleeve of the present invention, adopt following steps: some C and some C, R point and V point before clothing body, K2 point and Q point, P point and T point, S point and O point, X point and large tuck inside the sleeve on Y point and G point on little sleeve sew up after intersection point overlap and make, the present invention makes ready-made clothes shoulder position present bending, smooth curve, shoulder seam is avoided to appear at point of shoulder point place, make to wear back armhole camber line clean and tidy, attractive in appearance, smooth and easy, improve comfort level, also improve product quality.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making and method of sewing of jacket class another garment sleeve, belong to Garment Technology field.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard and being a splendid legacy of modern society's customized clothing, Business Casual jacket has entered into brand competition; But the method for cutting out that current clip overcomes sleeve routine is the structure adopting one sleeve, cutting, make simple, make the jacket sewed take appearance flat board, jacket becomes shoulder, sleeve portion do not have third dimension, be not suitable for the competition participating in high-end product.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide and a kind ofly utilizes the segmentation at sleeve shoulder seam place to change, and makes the shoulder of jacket finished product, sleeve portion forms three-dimensional contouring, the plate-making of the jacket class another garment sleeve that comfortable and easy to wear and ready-made clothes is handsome in appearance and method of sewing.
The present invention adopts following technical scheme:
The method for platemaking of a kind of jacket class of the present invention another garment sleeve, adopts following steps:
One, the anter of cutting clothes and rear panel; The armhole correspondence of anter and rear panel is placed, makes the oxter end points of anter and rear panel coincide with O point;
Two, the summit of anter neckline is collar point point A, and the summit of anter armhole is sleeve cusp K1; The summit of rear panel neckline is collar point point B1, and the summit of rear panel armhole is sleeve cusp K2;
B point is determined from collar point point A along the downward 3.8-6.8cm of neckline camber line at anter, determine R point from sleeve cusp K1 along the downward 5-8cm of armhole curve at anter, connect BR, along BR line, anter is split, ABRK1 cut-parts are correspondingly placed into rear panel shoulder upper end, K2B1 and K1A is overlapped;
Three, cross O point and be horizontal line section EF, then EF is the BL BUST LINE of anter and rear panel;
Rear neck is put deeply as D point, and the mid point between F point and D point is L, and cross the parallel lines LP that L point makes EF, the armhole curve of LP line and rear panel intersects at P point, and LP line is across back line, is horizontal line section MN apart from O point 1/3 armhole arc length in rear panel;
Four, point is C point before clothing body, and the camber line measured before clothing body between some C and K1 point is long, intersects at Q point from the extended line of C chain-dotted line and NM line, then the length of CQ line is that the camber line length of CK1 adds 0.4-0.8cm; Intersect at S point from Q chain-dotted line and EF line, to be then that the camber line of OK2 is long add 0.4-0.8cm to the length of QS line;
Five, cross C, Q and S point and be cap arc line CS, cap arc line CS and PL intersects at T point;
Six, determine that the mid point of camber line CO is X, the prolongation camber line crossing camber line QC is symmetrical with camber line CX and equal camber line CY; Cross the prolongation camber line SG that S point makes arc QS, make SG and OX symmetrical and equal;
Seven, on cap arc line CS, determine V point, make CV arc length equal with CR arc length;
Eight, cross Y point and be large sleeve end suture YY1, cross G point and be suture GG1 at the bottom of little sleeve, cross T point and be large sleeve cut-off rule TT1 and little sleeve cut-off rule TT2 respectively, connect Y1T1 and G1T2, then Y1T1 is large sleeve cuff line, and G1T2 is little sleeve cuff line.
The method of sewing of jacket class another garment sleeve of the present invention, adopts following steps:
One, front to some C before the clothing body on anter (1) and the sleeve on the tuck inside the sleeve greatly C that puts is overlapped and makes;
Two, the R point on anter (1) is overlapped with the V point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Three, the K2 point in rear panel (2) is overlapped with the Q point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Four, the P point in rear panel (2) is made with overlapping in conjunction with T point of large and small sleeve;
Five, the S point on little sleeve overlaps with O point and makes;
Six, the X point on anter with tuck inside the sleeve greatly on Y point and G point on little sleeve sew up after intersection point overlap and make.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows: the present invention gets the shoulder portion pitch cutting of jacket class garment portion and rear panel shoulder combines, form new rear panel, compare with Normal practice, the present invention changes the position of shoulder portion secant, increase certain capacity at sleeve sleeve mountain place simultaneously, ready-made clothes shoulder position is made to present bending, smooth curve, shoulder seam is avoided to appear at point of shoulder point place, make to wear back armhole camber line clean and tidy, attractive in appearance, smooth and easy, improve comfort level, also improve product quality, the present invention is applicable to the sleeve design of the leisure products such as various jacket, wind coat and makes.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is structural representation of the present invention;
Accompanying drawing 2 for the present invention be anter of the present invention and rear panel structural representation;
Accompanying drawing 3 is structural representation after anter of the present invention and rear panel adjustment;
Accompanying drawing 4 to be tucked inside the sleeve mountain structural representation for the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
As shown in accompanying drawing 1-4, the method for platemaking of a kind of jacket class of the present invention another garment sleeve, adopts following steps plate-making:
One, the anter 1 of cutting clothes and rear panel 2; The armhole correspondence of anter 1 and rear panel 2 is placed, makes the oxter end points of anter 1 and rear panel 2 coincide with O point;
Two, the summit of anter 1 neckline is collar point point A, and the summit of anter 1 armhole is sleeve cusp K1; The summit of rear panel 2 neckline is collar point point B1, and the summit of rear panel 2 armhole is sleeve cusp K2;
B point is determined from collar point point A along the downward 3.8-6.8cm of neckline camber line at anter 1, determine R point from sleeve cusp K1 along the downward 5-8cm of armhole curve at anter 1, connect BR, along BR line, anter 1 is split, ABRK1 cut-parts are correspondingly placed into rear panel 2 shoulder upper end, K2B1 and K1A is overlapped;
Three, cross O point and do horizontal line section, intersect at E point with center line before anter 1, intersect at F point with rear panel 2 CB, then EF line is the BL BUST LINE of anter 1 and rear panel 2;
Rear neck is put deeply as D point, and the mid point between F point and D point is L, and cross the parallel lines LP that L point makes EF, the armhole curve of LP line and rear panel 2 intersects at P point, and LP line is across back line, is horizontal line section MN apart from O point 1/3 armhole arc length in rear panel 2;
Four, point is C point before clothing body, and the camber line measured before clothing body between some C and K1 point is long, intersects at Q point from the extended line of C chain-dotted line and NM line, then the length of CQ line is that the camber line length of CK1 adds 0.4-0.8cm; Intersect at S point from Q chain-dotted line and EF line, to be then that the camber line of OK2 is long add 0.4-0.8cm to the length of QS line;
Five, cross C, Q and S point and be cap arc line CS, cap arc line CS and PL intersects at T point;
Six, determine that the mid point of camber line CO is X, the prolongation camber line crossing camber line QC is symmetrical with camber line CX and equal camber line CY; Cross the prolongation camber line SG that S point makes arc QS, make SG and OX symmetrical and equal;
Seven, on cap arc line CS, determine V point, make CV arc length equal with CR arc length;
Eight, cross Y point and be large sleeve end suture YY1, cross G point and be suture GG1 at the bottom of little sleeve, cross T point and be large sleeve cut-off rule TT1 and little sleeve cut-off rule TT2 respectively, connect Y1T1 and G1T2, then Y1T1 is large sleeve cuff line, and G1T2 is little sleeve cuff line.
The number range of 3.8-6.8cm and 5-8cm in above-mentioned steps two is determined by the large, medium and small type of clothes.
As shown in accompanying drawing 1-4, the method for sewing of a kind of jacket class another garment sleeve according to right of the present invention, the cut-parts after cutting adopt following steps to make:
One, overlap make putting C before the clothing body on anter 1 and putting C before sleeve on tucking inside the sleeve greatly;
Two, the R point on anter 1 is overlapped with the V point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Three, the K2 point in rear panel 2 is overlapped with the Q point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Four, the P point in rear panel 2 is made with overlapping in conjunction with T point of large and small sleeve;
Five, the S point on little sleeve overlaps with O point and makes;
Six, the X point on anter with tuck inside the sleeve greatly on Y point and G point on little sleeve sew up after intersection point overlap and make.
The present invention gets the shoulder portion pitch cutting of jacket class garment portion 1 and rear panel 2 shoulder combines, form new rear panel, compare with Normal practice, the present invention changes the position of shoulder portion secant, increase certain capacity at sleeve sleeve mountain place simultaneously, ready-made clothes shoulder position is made to present bending, smooth curve, shoulder seam is avoided to appear at point of shoulder point place, make to wear back armhole camber line clean and tidy, attractive in appearance, smooth and easy, improve comfort level, also improve product quality, the present invention is applicable to the sleeve design of the leisure products such as various jacket, wind coat and makes.
Claims (2)
1. a method for platemaking for jacket class another garment sleeve, is characterized in that adopting following steps:
One, the anter (1) of cutting clothes and rear panel (2); The armhole correspondence of anter (1) and rear panel (2) is placed, makes the oxter end points of anter (1) and rear panel (2) coincide with O point;
Two, the summit of anter (1) neckline is collar point point A, and the summit of anter (1) armhole is sleeve cusp K1; The summit of rear panel (2) neckline is collar point point B1, and the summit of rear panel (2) armhole is sleeve cusp K2;
B point is determined from collar point point A along the downward 3.8-6.8cm of neckline camber line at anter (1), R point is determined from sleeve cusp K1 along the downward 5-8cm of armhole curve at anter (1), connect BR, along BR line, anter (1) is split, ABRK1 cut-parts are correspondingly placed into rear panel (2) shoulder upper end, K2B1 and K1A is overlapped;
Three, cross O point and be horizontal line section EF, then EF is the BL BUST LINE of anter (1) and rear panel (2);
Rear neck is put deeply as D point, and the mid point between F point and D point is L, and cross the parallel lines LP that L point makes EF, the armhole curve of LP line and rear panel (2) intersects at P point, and LP line is across back line, is horizontal line section MN apart from O point 1/3 armhole arc length in rear panel (2);
Four, point is C point before clothing body, and the camber line measured before clothing body between some C and K1 point is long, intersects at Q point from the extended line of C chain-dotted line and NM line, then the length of CQ line is that the camber line length of CK1 adds 0.4-0.8cm; Intersect at S point from Q chain-dotted line and EF line, to be then that the camber line of OK2 is long add 0.4-0.8cm to the length of QS line;
Five, cross C, Q and S point and be cap arc line CS, cap arc line CS and PL intersects at T point;
Six, determine that the mid point of camber line CO is X, the prolongation camber line crossing camber line QC is symmetrical with camber line CX and equal camber line CY; Cross the prolongation camber line SG that S point makes arc QS, make SG and OX symmetrical and equal;
Seven, on cap arc line CS, determine V point, make CV arc length equal with CR arc length;
Eight, cross Y point and be large sleeve end suture YY1, cross G point and be suture GG1 at the bottom of little sleeve, cross T point and be large sleeve cut-off rule TT1 and little sleeve cut-off rule TT2 respectively, connect Y1T1 and G1T2, then Y1T1 is large sleeve cuff line, and G1T2 is little sleeve cuff line.
2. a method of sewing for jacket class another garment sleeve according to claim 1, its feature adopts following steps:
One, front to some C before the clothing body on anter (1) and the sleeve on the tuck inside the sleeve greatly C that puts is overlapped and makes;
Two, the R point on anter (1) is overlapped with the V point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Three, the K2 point in rear panel (2) is overlapped with the Q point on tucking inside the sleeve greatly make;
Four, the P point in rear panel (2) is made with overlapping in conjunction with T point of large and small sleeve;
Five, the S point on little sleeve overlaps with O point and makes;
Six, the X point on anter with tuck inside the sleeve greatly on Y point and G point on little sleeve sew up after intersection point overlap and make.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410615060.4A CN104397918B (en) | 2014-11-05 | 2014-11-05 | A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410615060.4A CN104397918B (en) | 2014-11-05 | 2014-11-05 | A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN104397918A CN104397918A (en) | 2015-03-11 |
| CN104397918B true CN104397918B (en) | 2016-02-10 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201410615060.4A Active CN104397918B (en) | 2014-11-05 | 2014-11-05 | A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing |
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Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106723436B (en) * | 2016-12-28 | 2017-10-20 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | The tailoring method and Western-style clothes of a kind of Western-style clothes coat-sleeve |
| CN107951103B (en) * | 2017-12-12 | 2024-01-23 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for making board for clothing decoration sleeves |
| CN113089165A (en) * | 2021-04-19 | 2021-07-09 | 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 | Production process of single-layer double-sided jacket |
Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1391855A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Cutting method for clothes sleeve and cut piece horizontal oversewing stripe |
| RU2258446C1 (en) * | 2003-12-29 | 2005-08-20 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" | Method for plotting of sleeve pattern |
| CN102266139A (en) * | 2011-07-22 | 2011-12-07 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Method for cutting sleeve of western style suit |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN103610252A (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | JF original number tailoring method of clothing raglan sleeve |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP5391377B2 (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2014-01-15 | 加藤 主里 | Sleeved clothing and sleeved clothing pattern |
-
2014
- 2014-11-05 CN CN201410615060.4A patent/CN104397918B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1391855A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Cutting method for clothes sleeve and cut piece horizontal oversewing stripe |
| RU2258446C1 (en) * | 2003-12-29 | 2005-08-20 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" | Method for plotting of sleeve pattern |
| CN102266139A (en) * | 2011-07-22 | 2011-12-07 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Method for cutting sleeve of western style suit |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN103610252A (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | JF original number tailoring method of clothing raglan sleeve |
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| CN104397918A (en) | 2015-03-11 |
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