JP5377950B2

JP5377950B2 - Upper garment

Info

Publication number: JP5377950B2
Application number: JP2008324177A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 浩久空井
Original assignee: メルボ紳士服工業株式会社
Priority date: 2008-12-19
Filing date: 2008-12-19
Publication date: 2013-12-25
Anticipated expiration: 2028-12-19
Also published as: JP2010144293A

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an upper garment making a shoulder line full of variety, and enabling forming in a three-dimensional form that wraps the shoulder blade and shoulder surroundings. <P>SOLUTION: This upper garment 1 is sewn by stitching a shoulder line 13 of a front body 2 and a shoulder line 14 of a back body 12 together. The shoulder line 13 of the front body 2 is such that a collar side is formed in a recessed curve 19 and a shoulder side is formed in a projecting curve 20, and the whole is formed in a S shape curve. Furthermore, in the shoulder line 13 of the front body 2, the shoulder end is placed on the back side more than the shoulder end of a normal shoulder line 21. The shoulder line 14 of the back body 12 is formed in a recessed curve a little shorter than the shoulder line 13 of the front body 2. Furthermore, in the shoulder line 14 of the back body 12, the shoulder end is placed on the back side more than the shoulder end of a normal shoulder line 27. The shoulder line 13 of the front body 2 and the shoulder line 14 of the back body 12 are stitched together while easestitching. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、スーツの上衣などに関するものである。 The present invention relates to a suit upper garment and the like.

従来、スーツ上衣の肩線は、肩回りの上端部において、上襟と袖ぐりとの間で略直線状とされる。 Conventionally, the shoulder line of the suit upper garment is substantially straight between the upper collar and the armhole at the upper end portion around the shoulder.

本発明は、肩線を変化に富むラインとすることができると共に、肩甲骨や肩回りを包み込む立体的な形状とすることができ、快適な着用感を得ることができる上衣を提供せんとするものである。 The present invention provides a top garment that can change the shoulder line to a line that is rich in change, and can have a three-dimensional shape that wraps around the scapula and shoulder circumference, and can provide a comfortable wearing feeling. Is.

本発明は、前記課題を解決するためになされたもので、前身頃の肩線と後身頃の肩線とを縫い合わせ縫製される上衣であって、前身頃の肩線は、襟側が凹曲線に形成されると共に肩口側が凸曲線に形成されると共に、前記凹曲線と前記凸曲線との境界で通常の肩線を跨いで形成されて、全体がＳ字状曲線に形成され、前記前身頃の肩線は、肩口側端部が前記通常の肩線の肩口側端部よりも背中側に位置しており、後身頃の肩線は、前記前身頃の肩線よりもやや短い凹曲線に形成され、しかも、前記後身頃の肩線は、肩口側端部が前記通常の肩線の肩口側端部よりも背中側に位置しており、前記前身頃の肩線と前記後身頃の肩線とがイセ込みながら縫い合わせられてなることを特徴とする上衣である。
The present invention has been made to solve the above problems, and is an upper garment in which the shoulder line of the front body and the shoulder line of the back body are sewn together, and the shoulder line of the front body has a concave curve on the collar side. is formed on the shoulder mouth side is convex curved while being formed Rutotomoni, wherein the boundary of the concave curve and the convex curve is formed across the normal shoulder line, the whole is formed in an S-shaped curve, the front body of Katasen, rather than the shoulder mouth side end portion of the shoulder mouth side end the normal shoulder line is located on the back side, the back body shoulder line formed slightly shorter concave curve than the shoulder line of the time in the predecessor are, moreover, the shoulder line of the back body, rather than the shoulder mouth side end portion of the shoulder mouth side end the normal shoulder line located on the back side, the shoulder line of the back body and the shoulder line of the time in the predecessor It is an upper garment characterized by being sewn together with a sash.

本発明によれば、肩線を変化に富む独創的で美しいラインとすることができ、肩甲骨や肩回りを包み込むような立体的な形状とすることができ、快適な着用感を生ずる上衣を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to make the shoulder line a creative and beautiful line that is rich in change, and to form a three-dimensional shape that wraps around the scapula and the shoulder circumference, and to provide a comfortable wearing feeling Can be provided.

以下、本発明の具体的実施例を図面に基づいて詳細に説明する。 Hereinafter, specific embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.

図１および図２は、本発明の上衣の一実施例を示す図であり、図１は上衣の右側の斜視図、図２は上衣の背面図である。図３は図１の身頃の概略図であり、（ａ）は前身頃の上部を示す概略正面図、（ｂ）は後身頃の上部を示す概略背面図である。本実施例の上衣１は、紳士用のシングルスーツの上衣とされる。 1 and 2 are views showing an embodiment of an upper garment according to the present invention. FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the right side of the upper garment, and FIG. 2 is a rear view of the upper garment. FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the body of FIG. 1, (a) is a schematic front view showing the upper part of the front body, and (b) is a schematic rear view showing the upper part of the back body. The upper garment 1 of this embodiment is an upper garment for a gentleman.

上衣１には、右側の前身頃２の上部に、上方へ開口した胸ポケット３が設けられ、右側の前身頃２の下部には、上方へ開口した腰ポケット４が設けられる。 The upper garment 1 is provided with a breast pocket 3 that opens upward at the upper part of the right front body 2, and a waist pocket 4 that opens upward at the lower part of the right front body 2.

右側の前身頃２には、胸の付近から腰ポケット４にかけて、上下方向に略直線状にフロントダーツ５が入れられる。フロントダーツ５は、つまみ縫いされた部分である。フロントダーツ５を入れることで、上衣１を立体的にすることができると共に、ウエストを絞って身体にフィットさせることができる。左側の前身頃には、前記フロントダーツ５と左右対称のフロントダーツが入れられる。 A front dart 5 is inserted in the front body 2 on the right side from the vicinity of the chest to the waist pocket 4 in a substantially straight line in the vertical direction. The front dart 5 is a knob-sewn part. By putting the front dart 5, the upper garment 1 can be made three-dimensional and the waist can be squeezed to fit the body. The front dart 5 and a symmetric front dart are placed in the front body on the left side.

右側の前身頃２には、略三角形状の下襟６が形成される。下襟６は、前身頃２端部の略三角形状の折り返し部７を折り目８に沿って、折り返し部７前面と前身頃２前面とが重なるよう折り返すことで形成される。前身頃２の裏側には、折り返し部７の裏側を含む領域に、前身頃２と拝み合わせで見返し９が縫い付けられているため、折り返した際には、見返し９が下襟６の表側となる。右側の前身頃２の下襟６には、前後方向に貫通したフラワーホール１０が形成される。左側の前身頃には、右側の場合と同様に下襟が形成される。但し、前記フラワーホール１０は形成されない。 A substantially triangular lower collar 6 is formed on the right front body 2. The lower collar 6 is formed by folding a substantially triangular folded portion 7 at the end of the front body 2 along the fold line 8 so that the front surface of the folded portion 7 and the front surface of the front body 2 overlap each other. On the back side of the front body 2, the turn 9 is sewn together with the front body 2 in the region including the back side of the folded portion 7. Become. The lower collar 6 of the right front body 2 is formed with a flower hole 10 penetrating in the front-rear direction. A lower collar is formed on the left front body as in the case of the right side. However, the flower hole 10 is not formed.

左側の前身頃には、下襟の下方にボタンが取り付けられる。右側の前身頃２には、下襟６の下方において前記ボタンと対応した位置に、前後方向に貫通したボタンホール１１が設けられる。ボタンの数は、二つまたは三つが一般的である。 On the left front body, a button is attached below the lower collar. The right front body 2 is provided with a buttonhole 11 penetrating in the front-rear direction at a position corresponding to the button below the lower collar 6. The number of buttons is generally two or three.

上衣１の身頃は、左右それぞれにおいて前身頃２と後身頃１２とが縫い合わせられると共に、左右の後身頃１２，１２同士が縫い合わせられることで形成される。右側の前身頃２と右側の後身頃１２との縫い合わせは、前身頃２の肩線１３と後身頃１２の肩線１４とが縫い合わされると共に、前身頃２の脇線１５と後身頃１２の脇線１６とが縫い合わされることでなされる。なお、以下の説明においては、前身頃２の肩線１３を前身頃肩線ともいい、後身頃１２の肩線１４を後身頃肩線ともいう。左側の前身頃と左側の後身頃１２との縫い合わせは、右側の場合と同様である。一方、左右の後身頃１２，１２同士の縫い合わせは、対応する端辺同士を縫い合わせることでなされる。 The body of the upper garment 1 is formed by sewing the front body 2 and the back body 12 on the left and right sides and sewing the left and right back bodies 12, 12 together. The front body 2 on the right side and the back body 12 on the right side are sewn together by stitching the shoulder line 13 of the front body 2 and the shoulder line 14 of the back body 12 together with the side lines 15 and the back body 12 of the front body 2. This is done by sewing the side lines 16 together. In the following description, the shoulder line 13 of the front body 2 is also referred to as the front body shoulder line, and the shoulder line 14 of the back body 12 is also referred to as the back body shoulder line. The stitching of the left front body and the left rear body 12 is the same as in the right case. On the other hand, the left and right back bodies 12, 12 are sewn together by stitching the corresponding end sides together.

図１に示すように、本発明を実施した上衣１の肩線１７は、通常の肩線１８（図１における二点鎖線）と異なり、この肩線１７を形成するための前身頃肩線１３および後身頃肩線１４について、以下に説明する。図３において、二点鎖線は通常の肩線の位置を示している。 As shown in FIG. 1, the shoulder line 17 of the upper garment 1 embodying the present invention is different from the normal shoulder line 18 (two-dot chain line in FIG. 1), and the front shoulder line 13 for forming the shoulder line 17. The back shoulder line 14 will be described below. In FIG. 3, the alternate long and two short dashes line indicates the position of the normal shoulder line.

前身頃肩線１３は、襟側が凹曲線１９に形成されると共に肩口側が凸曲線２０に形成されて、全体がＳ字状曲線に形成されている。前身頃肩線１３の肩口側端部は、通常の肩線２１の肩口側端部よりも背中側（図３（ａ）において上方）に偏心している。つまり、前身頃肩線１３の肩口側端点２２は、通常の肩線２１の肩口側端点２３よりも背中側に位置しており、肩口側端点２２は、前身頃肩口線２４の延長線上にあり滑らかに連続している。一方、前身頃肩線１３の襟側端点２５は、通常の肩線２１の襟側端点２６と同じ位置とされている。 The front body shoulder line 13 is formed in a concave curve 19 on the collar side and a convex curve 20 on the shoulder opening side, and is entirely formed in an S-shaped curve. The shoulder opening side end portion of the front body shoulder line 13 is more eccentric to the back side (upward in FIG. 3A) than the shoulder opening side end portion of the normal shoulder line 21. That is, the shoulder mouth side end point 22 of the front body shoulder line 13 is located on the back side from the shoulder mouth side end point 23 of the normal shoulder line 21, and the shoulder mouth side end point 22 is on an extension line of the front body shoulder line 24. Smooth and continuous. On the other hand, the collar side end point 25 of the front body shoulder line 13 is set at the same position as the collar side end point 26 of the normal shoulder line 21.

本実施例では、前身頃肩線１３は、その肩線箇所の前身頃幅の内、襟側から略三分の一の部分が凹曲線１９に形成されると共に、肩口側から略三分の二の部分が凸曲線２０に形成されて、襟側端点２５から肩口側端点２２までの全体がＳ字形状に形成されている。前記凸曲線２０において最も外側へ膨らんだ箇所の、通常の肩線２１からの偏位距離は３ｃｍ程度とされる。また、通常の肩線２１の肩口側端点２３と、前身頃肩線１３の肩口側端点２２との間隔は、２．５ｃｍ程度とされる。 In the present embodiment, the front body shoulder line 13 is formed with a concave curve 19 in a substantially one third portion of the front body width of the shoulder line portion from the collar side, and approximately three thirds from the shoulder mouth side. The second part is formed as a convex curve 20, and the whole from the collar side end point 25 to the shoulder opening side end point 22 is formed in an S-shape. The deviation distance from the normal shoulder line 21 of the portion that bulges outward in the convex curve 20 is about 3 cm. In addition, the distance between the shoulder-side end point 23 of the normal shoulder line 21 and the shoulder-end side end point 22 of the front body shoulder line 13 is about 2.5 cm.

後身頃肩線１４は、前身頃肩線１３よりもやや短く、背中側に若干凹状に形成された弧状とされる。後身頃肩線１４の肩口側端部は、通常の肩線２７の肩口側端部よりも背中側に偏心している。つまり、後身頃肩線１４は、通常の肩線２７の襟側端点２８と、通常の肩線２７の肩口側端点２９よりも背中側（図３（ｂ）において下方）の点とを結んで形成される。本実施例では、通常の肩線２７の肩口側端点２９と、後身頃肩線１４の肩口側端点３０との間隔は、４ｃｍ程度とされる。 The back body shoulder line 14 is slightly shorter than the front body shoulder line 13 and has an arc shape formed in a slightly concave shape on the back side. The shoulder opening side end of the back body shoulder line 14 is more eccentric to the back side than the shoulder opening side end of the normal shoulder line 27. That is, the shoulder line 14 of the back body connects the collar side end point 28 of the normal shoulder line 27 and the point on the back side (downward in FIG. 3B) from the shoulder side end point 29 of the normal shoulder line 27. It is formed. In the present embodiment, the interval between the shoulder-mouth side end point 29 of the normal shoulder line 27 and the shoulder-mouth side end point 30 of the back body shoulder line 14 is about 4 cm.

そして、前身頃肩線１３と後身頃肩線１４とをイセ込みながら縫い合わせることで、本実施例の肩線１７は、通常の肩線１８よりも背中側において、背中側に凸曲線となる略弧状を描くようにでき、通常の肩線１８の肩口側端部よりも背中側に肩口側端部を偏心させることができる。本実施例では、１．５ｃｍ程度イセ込みながら縫い合わせられる。ここでは右側の肩線１７について説明したが、左側の肩線１７についても同様である。 Then, the shoulder line 17 of the present embodiment is formed in a convex curve on the back side on the back side of the normal shoulder line 18 by sewing together the front body shoulder line 13 and the back body shoulder line 14 while being sewn. The arcuate shape can be drawn, and the shoulder-side end portion can be eccentric to the back side of the shoulder-side end portion of the normal shoulder line 18. In this embodiment, the stitches are sewn while being inserted about 1.5 cm. Although the right shoulder line 17 has been described here, the same applies to the left shoulder line 17.

このようにして、左右双方の肩線１７，１７は、肩回りの上端部に形成される通常の肩線１８よりも背中側に位置して形成でき、変化に富む弧状曲線を創出することができる。さらに、肩口側端部が背中側に位置すると共にＳ字状曲線に形成された前身頃肩線１３と、同じく肩口側端部が背中側に位置すると共に前身頃肩線１３よりやや短い凹曲線に形成された後身頃肩線１４とをイセ込みながら縫い合わすことで、肩回りや肩甲骨に沿うよう丸みをおびた形状とすることができる。これにより、快適な着用感を得ることができる。 In this way, the left and right shoulder lines 17, 17 can be formed on the back side with respect to the normal shoulder line 18 formed at the upper end portion around the shoulder, and can create an arc-shaped curve rich in change. it can. Furthermore, the shoulder part on the shoulder side is located on the back side and the front body shoulder line 13 is formed in an S-shaped curve, and the shoulder part on the shoulder side is located on the back side and the concave line is slightly shorter than the shoulder part 13 on the front body side. By sewing together the shoulder line 14 of the back body formed on the back, it is possible to obtain a rounded shape along the shoulder circumference and the scapula. Thereby, a comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained.

本発明の上衣は、前記実施例の構成に限らず、適宜変更可能である。前記実施例では、上衣１は、紳士用のシングルスーツについて説明したが、紳士用のダブルスーツにも適用可能である。また、上衣１は、ジャケットなどでもよい。 The upper garment of the present invention is not limited to the configuration of the above embodiment, and can be changed as appropriate. In the said Example, although the upper garment 1 demonstrated the single suit for gentlemen, it is applicable also to the double suit for gentlemen. The upper garment 1 may be a jacket or the like.

本発明の上衣の一実施例を示す図であり、上衣の右側の斜視図である。It is a figure which shows one Example of the upper garment of this invention, and is a perspective view of the right side of an upper garment. 本発明の上衣の一実施例を示す図であり、上衣の背面図である。It is a figure which shows one Example of the upper garment of this invention, and is a rear view of an upper garment. 図１の身頃の概略図であり、（ａ）は前身頃の上部を示す概略正面図、（ｂ）は後身頃の上部を示す概略背面図である。It is the schematic of the body of FIG. 1, (a) is a schematic front view which shows the upper part of a front body, (b) is a schematic rear view which shows the upper part of a back body.

Explanation of symbols

１上衣
２前身頃
１２後身頃
１３前身頃肩線
１４後身頃肩線
１９凹曲線
２０凸曲線
２１通常の肩線
２７通常の肩線 1 upper garment 2 front body 12 back body 13 front body shoulder line 14 back body shoulder line 19 concave curve 20 convex curve 21 normal shoulder line 27 normal shoulder line

Claims

An upper garment in which the shoulder line of the front body and the shoulder line of the back body are sewn together,
Front body shoulder line, Rutotomoni collar side shoulder mouth side is formed in a concave curve is formed in a convex curve, the the boundary of the concave curved line and the convex curve is formed across the normal shoulder line, whole Formed into an S-shaped curve,
The front body of the shoulder line is located on the back side of the shoulder mouth side end portion of the shoulder mouth side end the normal shoulder line,
Back body shoulder line is formed slightly shorter concave curve than the shoulder line of the time in the predecessor, moreover, the shoulder line of the back body, rather than the shoulder mouth side end portion of the shoulder mouth side end the normal shoulder line Located on the back side,
The upper garment, wherein the shoulder line of the front body and the shoulder line of the back body are sewn together while being inserted.