JP4527680B2 - Clothing with cup - Google Patents

Clothing with cup Download PDF

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JP4527680B2
JP4527680B2 JP2006090354A JP2006090354A JP4527680B2 JP 4527680 B2 JP4527680 B2 JP 4527680B2 JP 2006090354 A JP2006090354 A JP 2006090354A JP 2006090354 A JP2006090354 A JP 2006090354A JP 4527680 B2 JP4527680 B2 JP 4527680B2
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cup
dart
lining
garment
edge
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JP2007262617A (en
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浩美 澤田
敦子 神尾
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Wacoal Corp
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Wacoal Corp
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  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Description

本発明は、カップを略椀状に形成するために用いられるダーツ部を有し、カップのトップ近傍に位置するダーツ部の、先端部からの糸抜け防止のため長めに残す糸端によって見映えが悪かったり、糸端を短くしてダーツ先端部からの糸抜けによりダーツ部が口を開くなどの従来の問題を解決して、ダーツ先端部に糸端を残す必要をなくし、従ってダーツ先端部からの糸抜けの発生もなく、また、カップの表裏いずれの面においてもスムーズな表面を有し、外観性及び着用感に優れるカップ部を有する衣類に関する。 The present invention has a dart part used to form a cup in a substantially bowl shape, and the dart part located in the vicinity of the top of the cup looks with a long thread end to prevent the thread from coming off from the tip part. This eliminates the need to leave the yarn end at the dart tip, and thus eliminates the conventional problems such as opening the mouth of the dart when the yarn end is shortened and the yarn drips off the dart tip. The present invention relates to a garment having a cup portion that is free from yarn slippage and has a smooth surface on both the front and back sides of the cup and is excellent in appearance and wearing feeling.

ブラジャーなどのカップ部を有する衣類は、カップをバスト形状に合うよう立体的に形成するために、カップを形成する布地片にダーツ部を設ける場合がある。   A garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere may be provided with a dart portion on a piece of fabric forming the cup in order to form the cup three-dimensionally so as to match the bust shape.

従来のダーツ部は、布地片のダーツ形成部において、ダーツ部の分量分の切り欠き部を設け、該切り欠き部の両側縁部を突き合わせるか、あるいは縫い代同士を重ね合わせた状態で縫着して形成されていた(下記特許文献1、2、3、4参照)。図10〜13に従来のダーツ部の形成方法を示す。図10は、従来のカップ部を有する衣類のカップにおいて、縫着前のダーツ形成部の平面形状を示す拡大図であって、
表地2’と裏地3’の2枚の布地片が重ね合わされている。2枚の布地片のダーツ形成部21には、切り欠き部21aが形成され、その両側縁部には縫い代部24、25が設けられている。図11に示すように、該切り欠き部21aの両側縁部の縫い代部24、25及びダーツ形成部の両側縁部22、23を重ね合わせ、ダーツ形成部の両側縁部22、23を縫着固定することにより、図12、13に示すようにダーツ部21’を形成する。なお、図12は縫い代部を片倒して縫着したもの、図13は縫い代部を割って縫着したものであって、符号26は縫着部を示す。
Conventional darts are sewn in the dart forming part of the fabric piece, with notches corresponding to the amount of the darts, but with both side edges of the notches being abutted or overlapping seams. (See Patent Documents 1, 2, 3, and 4 below). 10 to 13 show a conventional method for forming a dart portion. FIG. 10 is an enlarged view showing a planar shape of a dart forming portion before sewing in a clothing cup having a conventional cup portion,
Two pieces of fabric, outer fabric 2 'and lining 3', are overlaid. A cutout portion 21a is formed in the dart forming portion 21 of the two pieces of fabric pieces, and seam allowance portions 24 and 25 are provided on both side edges thereof. As shown in FIG. 11, the seam margins 24, 25 on both side edges of the notch 21a and the both side edges 22, 23 of the dart forming part are overlapped, and the both side edges 22, 23 of the dart forming part are sewn together. By fixing, a dart part 21 ′ is formed as shown in FIGS. Note that FIG. 12 shows a sewn portion that is sewn with the seam allowance halfway, and FIG. 13 shows a sewn portion that is sewn with a seam allowance, and reference numeral 26 denotes the sewn portion.

しかし、ダーツ先端部より上方に目測によって縫い止まり部を設けて縫着し(図12、13中、符号27で示される。)、糸端は長めに残して切るため、ダーツ先端部に糸端が長めに残った状態は見映えが悪く、また、糸端を短くするとダーツ先端部からの糸抜けにより、ダーツ部が口を開くなどの問題が生じて、見映えが悪く、着用感やバストの補整効果を阻害することが多々あった。 However, a sewing stop is provided above the dart tip and is sewn by sewing (indicated by reference numeral 27 in FIGS. 12 and 13), and the yarn end is cut while leaving it long. If the thread end is too long, the appearance of the dart will be poor, and if the thread end is shortened, the dart will open out due to the thread coming off from the tip of the dart. In many cases, the correction effect of was inhibited.

布地片のダーツ形成部において切り欠き部を設けずに、ダーツ形成部の布地片を折り畳む形成方法も提案されているが(下記特許文献1、5参照)、ダーツ部中心線で二つ折りしてダーツ両端縁部に沿って縫いつけるなどの形成方法であり、ダーツ先端部における糸端の残りや、糸抜けによってダーツ部が口を開くこと、ダーツ部の着用感などを考慮したものではなかった。下記特許文献6にはカップ部に布地片を折り畳んで形成されたタックを有するブラジャーが記載されているが、タックはカップ部周縁部のみを縫着したもので着用時にはタックが開いた状態となり、ダーツ部とは役割が異なるものである。
実開昭50−10421公報 特公昭61−40761公報 実開昭54−102330公報 実開昭58−192912公報 実開昭53−73127公報 実開昭54−30527公報
There has also been proposed a method of folding the fabric piece of the dart forming portion without providing a notch in the dart forming portion of the fabric piece (see Patent Documents 1 and 5 below). It was a forming method such as sewing along the edges of both ends of the dart, and it did not take into account the remaining thread end at the tip of the dart, the opening of the dart by opening the thread, the feeling of wearing the dart. The following Patent Document 6 describes a brassiere having a tack formed by folding a piece of fabric in a cup part, but the tack is a state in which the tack is opened at the time of wearing only by sewing the cup part peripheral part, The role is different from darts.
Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 50-10421 Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40761 Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 54-102330 Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 58-192912 Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 53-73127 Japanese Utility Model Publication 54-30527

本発明は、カップに形成されるダーツ先端部に糸端が長めに残った状態で見映えが悪くなったり、糸端を短くしてダーツ先端部からの糸抜けによりダーツ部が口を開くなどの問題が生じず、カップの表裏いずれの両面においてもスムーズな表面を有して、外観性及び着用感に優れるカップ部を有する衣類を提供することを目的とする。   In the present invention, the appearance of the dart is formed with a long yarn end remaining on the dart tip formed on the cup, or the dart portion opens the mouth by shortening the yarn end and removing the yarn from the dart tip. It is an object of the present invention to provide a garment having a cup portion that has a smooth surface on both the front and back sides of the cup and is excellent in appearance and wearing feeling.

上記の課題を解決するために、本発明は、次の様なカップ部を有する衣類を提供するものである。   In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides a garment having the following cup portion.

(1)少なくとも、略椀状に形成するためにカップの略トップ部に向かうダーツ部を有する布地からなるカップ部を左右一対有する衣類であって、該カップは、略椀状に形成するための所定の面積とダーツ部分量に対応するダーツ形成部を有する略同型の表地と裏地の布地片を重ね合わせ、切り欠きのないダーツ形成部の中心線をカップ周縁端部からダーツ先端部に亘って縫着し、次に前記ダーツ形成部の中心線が内側となるよう表地と裏地の布地片をそれぞれダーツ形成部の両側縁部を重ね合わせて中表に折り畳んだ後、外側となったダーツ形成部の側縁部でさらに折り返してダーツ形成部を表地と裏地でそれぞれ布地が三重に重なった状態とし、前記表地と裏地の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部のカップ周縁端部側から表裏の折山線に沿ってダーツ先端部まで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部で折り返し前記ダーツ形成部の中心線に沿ってカップ周縁端部までを一連に縫着して、あるいは前記ダーツ形成部の中心線に沿ってカップ周縁端部側からダーツ先端部まで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部で折り返し前記表地と裏地の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部の表裏の折山線に沿ってカップ周縁端部までを一連に縫着して、一体になるよう前記表地と裏地を固着し、ダーツ部を形成することを特長とするカップ部を有する衣類。 (1) At least a garment having a pair of left and right cup portions made of a fabric having a dart portion facing a substantially top portion of the cup so as to be formed in a substantially bowl shape, the cup being formed in a substantially bowl shape A substantially identical surface and back fabric piece having a dart forming part corresponding to a predetermined area and dart part amount are overlapped, and the center line of the dart forming part without notch extends from the cup peripheral edge part to the dart tip part. Next, the outer and outer linings are folded on the inner surface by overlapping the edges of both sides of the dart forming part so that the center line of the dart forming part is on the inside, and then forming the dart on the outside. Fold back at the side edge of the part so that the dart forming part is in a state where the fabric overlaps on each of the outer and lining, and the front and back folds from the cup peripheral edge side of the dart forming part folded to the outside of the outer and lining On the mountain line Sew to the tip of the dart and then fold back at the tip of the dart and sew in a series along the center line of the dart forming part to the peripheral edge of the cup, or along the center line of the dart forming part Sewn from the cup peripheral edge side to the dart tip, and then folded back at the dart tip, a series of lines up to the cup peripheral edge along the front and back folding lines of the dart forming part folded to the outside of the outer surface and the lining A garment having a cup portion, characterized in that a dart portion is formed by adhering the outer surface and the lining to be sewn together.

(2)前記カップの一方につき、前記ダーツ部を1箇所乃至4箇所有することを特長とする前記(1)記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (2) The clothing having the cup portion according to (1), wherein the dart portion has one to four portions per one of the cups.

(3)略同型の表地と裏地の前記布地片をカップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部に沿って縫着した後、該縫い代部が内側となるよう表地と裏地を折り返し、折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部を形成してなることを特長とする前記(1)または(2)に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (3) After the cloth pieces of the substantially same type of outer and lining are overlapped with the inner surface on the outer surface when the cup is formed, and sewn along the seam margin which becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed, the seam allowance The cup portion according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the outer and inner linings are folded back so that the portion is on the inside, and the folded fold line forms the front upper edge of the cup. clothing.

(4)前記略同型の表地と裏地の布地片をカップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部に沿って縫着した後、該縫い代部が内側となるよう表地と裏地を折り返し、表裏2枚の縫い代部を前記裏地の布地片側に倒し、該布地片に縫着固定し、折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部を形成してなることを特長とする前記(3)記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (4) The substantially same type of outer and lining fabric pieces are overlapped with the inner surface on the outer surface when the cup is formed, and are sewn along the seam margin that becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed. Fold the outer and lining so that the inner part is on the inside, fold the two seam allowances on the fabric side of the lining, sew and fix it on the fabric piece, and the folded fold line will fold the front upper edge of the cup The clothing which has a cup part as described in said (3) characterized by being formed.

(5)前記カップが、薄地の布地片から形成されてなることを特長とする前記(1)乃至(4)のいずれか一項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (5) The garment having a cup portion according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the cup is formed of a thin fabric piece.

(6)前記カップが、薄地で伸縮性を有する布地片から形成されてなることを特長とする前記(5)に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (6) The clothing having the cup portion according to (5), wherein the cup is formed of a thin fabric piece having elasticity.

(7)前記カップ部を有する衣類は、ブラジャー、ブラスリップ、ブラキャミソール、ボディスーツ、カップ付きテディ、水着から選ばれる衣類である前記(1)乃至(6)いずれか一項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 (7) The cup part according to any one of (1) to (6), wherein the clothes having the cup part are clothes selected from a brassiere, a brass lip, a bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, and a swimsuit. Having clothing.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類は、上記構成を有するため、カップに形成されるダーツ先端部に糸端が長めに残った状態で見映えが悪くなったり、また、糸端を短くしてダーツ先端部からの糸抜けによりダーツ部が口を開くなどの問題が生じず、カップの表裏いずれの両面においてもスムーズな表面を有して、バストの補整効果や、デザイン性、着用感を阻害することなく、外観性及び着用感に優れる。また、ダーツ部での布地片の重なりが表地3枚と裏地3枚の計6枚となるため、カップ下部に設けられたダーツ部はカップ部における芯地の役割も付加され、薄地の布地によって形成されるカップであってもバストの補整効果に優れる。 Since the garment having the cup portion of the present invention has the above-described configuration, it looks bad when the yarn end remains in the dart tip portion formed on the cup, or the dart is shortened by shortening the yarn end. There is no problem such as opening the mouth of the dart part due to thread removal from the tip part, and it has a smooth surface on both the front and back sides of the cup, impairing the bust correction effect, design, and wearing feeling And excellent in appearance and wearing feeling. In addition, since the overlap of the fabric pieces at the dart part is a total of 6 sheets of 3 outer and 3 linings, the dart part provided at the lower part of the cup also has the role of interlining in the cup part, Even a formed cup has excellent bust correction effect.

以下、図面を用いて、本発明を詳細に説明するが、本発明は下記の実施形態に限定されるものではない。 Hereinafter, although the present invention is explained in detail using a drawing, the present invention is not limited to the following embodiment.

図1は、本発明のカップ部を有する衣類のカップにおいて、ダーツ形成部の中心線を縫着した状態を示す拡大図、図2は、図1のダーツ形成部を、中心線を中心に折り返した状態を示す拡大図、図3は、図2のダーツ形成部を、外側となったダーツ形成部の側縁部でさらに折り返して縫着し、ダーツ部を形成した状態を示す拡大図である。以下に、ダーツ部の形成方法を説明する。   FIG. 1 is an enlarged view showing a state in which a center line of a dart forming portion is sewn in a clothing cup having a cup portion of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the dart forming portion of FIG. FIG. 3 is an enlarged view showing a state in which the dart portion is formed by folding back and sewing the dart forming portion of FIG. 2 at the side edge portion of the dart forming portion that is the outside. . Below, the formation method of a dart part is demonstrated.

本発明において、カップは、まず図1に示すように、略椀状に形成するための所定の面積とダーツ部分量に対応するダーツ形成部を有する略同型の表地2と裏地3の2枚の布地片を重ね合わせ、切り欠きのないダーツ形成部1の中心線4、4’をカップ周縁端部からダーツ先端部に亘って縫着する。次に、図2に示すように、前記ダーツ形成部1の中心線4(4’)が内側となるよう表地2と裏地3の布地片をそれぞれダーツ形成部の両側縁部5、6および5’、6’を重ね合わせて中表に折り畳んだ後、外側となったダーツ形成部の側縁部6,6’でさらに折り返してダーツ形成部を表地2と裏地3でそれぞれ布地が三重に重なった状態とする。さらに、図3に示すように、表地2と裏地3の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部のカップ周縁端部7a側から表裏の折山線(ダーツ形成部の側縁部6、6’)に沿ってダーツ先端部7bまで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部7bで折り返しダーツ形成部の中心線4,4’に沿ってカップ周縁端部7cまでを一連に縫着して、一体になるよう表地2と裏地3を固着し、ダーツ部1’を形成する。図3において上記一連に縫着した縫着部は符号8で示す。なお、縫着はダーツ部側縁部のいずれの側から行っても良く、ダーツ形成部の中心線4,4’に沿ってカップ周縁端部7c側からダーツ先端部7bまで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部7bで折り返し前記表地と裏地の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部の表裏の折山線(ダーツ形成部の側縁部6、6’)に沿ってカップ周縁端部7aまでを一連に縫着しても良い。   In the present invention, as shown in FIG. 1, the cup is first made of two sheets of a substantially same type of outer material 2 and lining material 3 having a dart forming portion corresponding to a predetermined area and a dart part amount for forming a substantially bowl shape. The fabric pieces are overlapped, and the center lines 4 and 4 ′ of the dart forming portion 1 having no notches are sewn from the cup peripheral edge portion to the dart tip portion. Next, as shown in FIG. 2, the fabric pieces of the outer fabric 2 and the lining 3 are placed on both side edges 5, 6 and 5 of the dart forming portion so that the center line 4 (4 ′) of the dart forming portion 1 is inside. After overlapping ', 6' and folding it to the inside surface, it is further folded at the side edges 6, 6 'of the dart forming part which became the outside, and the dart forming part overlaps the fabric on the outer material 2 and the lining material 3, respectively. State. Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 3, from the cup peripheral edge part 7a side of the dart formation part folded outside the surface material 2 and the lining material 3, the front and back fold line (side edges 6, 6 ′ of the dart formation part). And then sew up to the dart tip 7b, and further sew the dart tip 7b along the center line 4, 4 'of the folded dart forming portion up to the cup peripheral edge 7c in series, so that the outer surface is integrated. 2 and the lining 3 are bonded together to form a dart portion 1 ′. In FIG. 3, the sewn portion sewn in series is indicated by reference numeral 8. The sewing may be performed from either side of the dart portion side edge, and is sewn from the cup peripheral end portion 7c side to the dart tip end portion 7b along the center line 4, 4 'of the dart forming portion. A series of fold lines (side edges 6 and 6 'of the dart forming portion) on the front and back of the dart forming portion folded at the dart tip portion 7b and folded outside the outer surface and the lining in a series up to the cup peripheral edge portion 7a. May be sewn.

上記方法によりダーツ部を形成することにより、カップに形成されるダーツ先端部において糸抜け防止のために糸端を残す必要がなく、外観性が向上し、糸端を残さずダーツ先端部では糸が連続して折り返しているため、糸抜けによりダーツ部が口を開く問題が生じない。また、上記方法によりダーツ部を形成したカップは、カップの表裏いずれの両面においてもスムーズな表面を有して、バストの補整効果や、デザイン性、着用感を阻害することなく、外観性及び着用感に優れ、さらにダーツ部での布地片の重なりが表地3枚と裏地3枚の計6枚となるため、カップ下部に設けられたダーツ部はカップ部における芯地の役割も付加され、薄地の布地によって形成されるカップであってもバストの補整効果に優れる。   By forming the dart portion by the above method, it is not necessary to leave the yarn end at the dart tip portion formed on the cup in order to prevent the thread from coming off, the appearance is improved, and the yarn is not left at the dart tip portion without leaving the yarn end. Is continuously folded, so that there is no problem of opening the mouth of the dart portion due to thread dropout. In addition, the cup with the dart portion formed by the above method has a smooth surface on both the front and back sides of the cup, and the appearance and wear of the bust are not impaired, and the design and wear feeling are not impaired. It has excellent feeling, and the fabric pieces overlap in the dart part is a total of 6 sheets, 3 on the outer and 3 on the lining, so the dart part provided at the bottom of the cup also has the role of interlining in the cup part, Even cups made of this fabric are excellent in bust correction effect.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類において、上記方法により形成されるダーツ部の形成数は特に限定されないが、カップの一方につき、1箇所乃至4箇所有するのが好ましい。また、カップの形状から、上記ダーツ部は下カップに相当する箇所など通常ダーツ部を設ける位置に設けられる。 In the garment having the cup portion of the present invention, the number of dart portions formed by the above method is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to have one to four places per one of the cups. Moreover, the said dart part is provided in the position which provides a dart part normally, such as the location corresponded to a lower cup from the shape of a cup.

図4に、本発明のカップ部を有する衣類のカップを形成するための布地片の裁断形状の一例を示す。図4の布地片9は、略椀状に形成するためにカップの略トップ部に向かうダーツ部を3箇所有するカップを形成するための布地片であり、略椀状に形成するための所定の面積とダーツ部分量に対応するダーツ形成部1を3箇所有する。カップの形成に際しては、図4の布地片9のような形状の略同型の表地と裏地の布地片を使用する。なお、本発明において、必要に応じ、上カップ部と下カップ部のように、カップを複数の裁断片とし、下カップに本発明によるダーツ部を形成するなどしてカップ部を形成しても良い。   In FIG. 4, an example of the cutting shape of the fabric piece for forming the cup of the clothing which has a cup part of this invention is shown. The fabric piece 9 of FIG. 4 is a fabric piece for forming a cup having three dart portions that are directed toward the substantially top portion of the cup in order to form a substantially bowl shape, and is a predetermined piece for forming a substantially bowl shape. There are three dart forming portions 1 corresponding to the area and the dart portion amount. When the cup is formed, a cloth piece of substantially the same shape as the cloth piece 9 in FIG. 4 and a cloth piece of the lining are used. In the present invention, if necessary, the cup portion may be formed by forming the cup into a plurality of cut pieces, such as the upper cup portion and the lower cup portion, and forming the dart portion according to the present invention on the lower cup. good.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類においては、カップの前側上端縁部を次のように形成するのが好ましい。即ち、図7に示すように、カップを形成するための略椀状に形成するための所定の面積とダーツ部分量に対応するダーツ形成部を有する略同型の表地2と裏地3の布地片を、カップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部17に沿って縫着した後(図7中符号16で示される。)、縫い代部17が内側となるよう表地2と裏地3を折り返し(図7中、それぞれ矢印方向で示される)、図8に示すように折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部11aを形成するのが好ましい。カップの前側上端縁部を上記のように形成することにより、表地側、裏地側ともにカップ外側に縫着部が露出せず、またテープ材等による端始末も必要ないため、裏地側においては段差による肌への圧迫等が低減され、痕残りが生じないなど着用感が向上し、表地側においては、縫い目が見えないことによってデザイン性に優れ、胸元の開口が大きいアウター着用時のインナーとしての使用や、薄地のアウター着用時にも外観に響きにくいなどの利点がある。 In the garment having the cup portion of the present invention, it is preferable to form the front upper edge of the cup as follows. That is, as shown in FIG. 7, the cloth pieces of the outer surface 2 and the lining 3 of substantially the same type having a predetermined area for forming a cup and a dart forming portion corresponding to the amount of the dart portion are formed. After the cups are formed, the outer surfaces are superposed on the inner surface, and are sewn along the seam allowance 17 that becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed (indicated by reference numeral 16 in FIG. 7), and then the seam allowance 17 The outer surface 2 and the inner lining 3 are folded back (indicated by the arrow directions in FIG. 7), and the folded mountain line as shown in FIG. 8 forms the front upper edge 11a of the cup. preferable. By forming the upper edge of the front side of the cup as described above, the stitched part is not exposed on the outer side of the cup on both the outer side and the lining side, and there is no need to clean up with a tape material. The pressure on the skin is reduced, and the feeling of wearing is improved, such as no traces remaining, and on the outer surface side, the seam is invisible, so the design is excellent, and the inner when wearing an outer with a large chest opening There are advantages such as being hard to resonate when used and when wearing thin outerwear.

特に、図9に示すように、略同型の表地2と裏地3の布地片をカップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部17に沿って縫着した後(図9中符号16で示される。)、縫い代部17が内側となるよう表地2と裏地3を折り返し(図9中、それぞれ矢印方向で示される)、表裏2枚の縫い代部17を前記裏地3の布地片側に倒し、該布地片に縫着固定し(図9中符号18で示される。)、折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部を形成してなる(図8において符号11aで示される。)のが、縫い代部がしっかり固定され好ましい。 In particular, as shown in FIG. 9, the outer surface 2 and the lining 3 of substantially the same type are overlapped on the inner surface with the outer surfaces facing each other when the cup is formed, and along the seam margin 17 that becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed. 9 (shown by reference numeral 16 in FIG. 9), the front material 2 and the lining material 3 are folded back (indicated by arrows in FIG. 9) so that the seam margin 17 is on the inner side, and then the seam allowance for the two front and back materials The part 17 is tilted to the cloth piece side of the lining 3 and is sewn and fixed to the cloth piece (indicated by reference numeral 18 in FIG. 9), and the folded fold line forms the front upper edge of the cup. (Indicated by reference numeral 11a in FIG. 8) is preferable because the seam allowance is firmly fixed.

本発明において、上記方法により形成されるダーツ部を有するカップのカップ部への取り付けやストラップの取り付け方法は、通常一般のカップ部を有する衣類と同様に行うことができる。   In this invention, the attachment to the cup part of the cup which has the dart part formed by the said method, and the attachment method of a strap can be normally performed like the clothing which has a general cup part.

次に、上記の形成方法により、ダーツ部を形成してなるカップを備えたカップ部を有する衣類の実施形態例を挙げる。図5におけるブラジャーは、略椀状に形成するためにカップの略トップ部に向かうダーツ部を有するカップ11からなる左右一対のカップ部10、10、前記カップ部10、10を保持する前中心側の土台部12、前記カップ部10、10を脇部側で保持する土台部を含むバスト部における左右一対のバック部13、13、およびカップ部10、10から肩部をまたがって左右のバック部13、13へ延びるストラップ14、14を有するブラジャーである。なお、ストラップ14、14にはそれぞれバック部への取り付けおよび着用時の角度調節のための係止部材、および長さ調節のための調節部材が取り付けられている。また、バック部13、13の両端部には互いに係止可能な係止部材を備える係止部13a、13bが設けられている。カップ11は、図4の布地片9のような形状の略同型の表地と裏地の2枚の布地片を使用して形成され、布地片9における辺9aがカップ11における前側上端縁部11a、布地片9における辺9bがカップ11における脇側上端縁部11b、布地片9における辺9cがカップ周縁部11cを形成する。   Next, the embodiment example of the clothing which has a cup part provided with the cup formed by a dart part by the above-mentioned formation method is given. The brassiere in FIG. 5 has a pair of left and right cup parts 10 and 10 comprising a cup 11 having a dart part facing the substantially top part of the cup to form a substantially bowl-like shape, and the front center side holding the cup parts 10 and 10. Left and right back portions straddling shoulder portions from the cup portions 10 and 10 and the pair of left and right back portions 13 and 13 in the bust portion including the base portion that holds the cup portions 10 and 10 on the side portion side. A brassiere with straps 14, 14 extending to 13, 13. The straps 14 and 14 are each provided with a locking member for adjusting the angle when attached to the back portion and wearing, and an adjusting member for adjusting the length. In addition, locking portions 13 a and 13 b including locking members that can be locked with each other are provided at both ends of the back portions 13 and 13. The cup 11 is formed by using two pieces of cloth of the substantially same type of outer and lining having a shape like the cloth piece 9 of FIG. 4, and the side 9 a of the cloth piece 9 has a front upper edge 11 a in the cup 11, The side 9b of the fabric piece 9 forms a side upper edge 11b of the cup 11, and the side 9c of the fabric piece 9 forms a cup peripheral portion 11c.

カップ11の下部には、カップ周縁部からカップの略トップ部に向かう上記の形成方法により形成されたダーツ部15が、一方のカップにつき3箇所ずつ設けられている。   In the lower part of the cup 11, three darts 15 formed by the above-described forming method from the cup peripheral part toward the substantially top part of the cup are provided for each cup.

上記ブラジャーは、カップを略椀状に形成するためにダーツ部を形成しているが、該ダーツ部が上記の形成方法により形成されているためカップの表裏いずれの両面においてもダーツ部がスムーズな表面を有して、バストの補整効果や、デザイン性、着用感を阻害することなく、外観性及び着用感に優れる。また、ダーツ部での布地片の重なりが表地3枚と裏地3枚の計6枚となるため、カップ下部に設けられたダーツ部にカップ部における芯地の役割が付加され、バストの補整効果に優れる。 The brassiere has a dart part to form the cup in a substantially bowl shape, but the dart part is smooth on both the front and back sides of the cup because the dart part is formed by the above formation method. It has a surface and is excellent in appearance and wearing feeling without impairing the bust correction effect, design, and wearing feeling. In addition, the overlap of the fabric pieces at the dart part is a total of 6 sheets, 3 on the outer and 3 on the lining, so the dart part provided at the bottom of the cup is added with the role of interlining in the cup part, and the bust compensation effect Excellent.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類は、少なくとも、略椀状に形成するためにカップの略トップ部に向かう上記方法によって形成されたダーツ部を有するカップからなるカップ部を左右一対有するのであれば、カップ形状、ストラップやバック部の構成は本発明の作用を阻害しない範囲で得に限定されない。図6に本発明のカップ部を有する衣類の別の実施形態であるブラジャーの正面図を示す。図6のブラジャーは、ストラップ14’、14’が背面でクロスするタイプである以外は図5のブラジャーと同様の構成を有する。図6において、図5のブラジャーと同様の構成を有する部分は、図5と同一の符号で示す。 If the garment having the cup part of the present invention has at least a pair of left and right cup parts comprising a cup having a dart part formed by the above-described method toward the substantially top part of the cup in order to form a substantially bowl shape, The shape of the cup shape, the strap and the back portion are not particularly limited as long as they do not hinder the operation of the present invention. FIG. 6 shows a front view of a brassiere that is another embodiment of a garment having a cup portion of the present invention. The brassiere of FIG. 6 has the same configuration as the brassiere of FIG. 5 except that the straps 14 ′ and 14 ′ are of a type that crosses on the back surface. 6, parts having the same configuration as the brassiere in FIG. 5 are denoted by the same reference numerals as in FIG.

本発明において、カップの構成素材は本発明の作用を阻害しない範囲で特に限定されないが、特に表地、裏地とも薄地の布地片によりカップが構成される場合に本発明の作用がより効果的に発現され、特に好ましくは薄地で伸縮性を有する布地片によりカップが構成されるのがよい。具体的には一般にカップ部を有する衣類に使用されるナイロン糸やポリエステル糸等の化学繊維を用いたトリコットやレース等の編物、前記化学戦意に綿糸や絹糸、レーヨン等の天然繊維や合成繊維を交えたトリコットやレース等の編物、前記繊維にポリウレタン系の弾性繊維を交えたトリコットやレース、パワーネット等の編物などから、1種あるいは2種以上を選択して使用できる。   In the present invention, the constituent material of the cup is not particularly limited as long as it does not inhibit the operation of the present invention, but the operation of the present invention is more effectively manifested particularly when the cup is composed of thin fabric pieces on both the outer and the lining. It is particularly preferable that the cup is constituted by a piece of fabric that is thin and stretchable. Specifically, knitted fabrics such as tricots and laces using chemical fibers such as nylon yarn and polyester yarn that are generally used for clothing having cup parts, and natural and synthetic fibers such as cotton yarn, silk yarn, rayon, etc. for the chemical strategy. One type or two or more types can be selected and used from knitted fabrics such as mixed tricots and laces, and knitted fabrics such as tricots, laces, and power nets in which polyurethane elastic fibers are combined with the fibers.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類において、上記カップの構成以外は、特に限定されず、その形状、サイズ、素材、製造方法等は本発明の作用を阻害しない範囲で、通常一般のカップ部を有する衣類と同様に構成され、例えば補整効果の向上のためワイヤーやボーン等の他の構成を有していても良い。   In the clothing having the cup portion of the present invention, there is no particular limitation except for the configuration of the cup, and the shape, size, material, production method, etc. usually have a general cup portion as long as the action of the present invention is not hindered. It is configured in the same manner as clothing, and may have other configurations such as a wire and a bone for improving the compensation effect.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類の実施形態として、具体的には、上記実施形態のようなブラジャーの他に、ブラスリップ、ブラキャミソール、ボディスーツ、カップ付きテディ、水着等が挙げられる。本発明のカップ部を有する衣類は、本発明の作用を阻害しない範囲で、カップ部およびバック部の下側に、ウェスト近傍あるいは更にその下側まで延在する胴部を有していても良い。 Specifically as an embodiment of clothing which has a cup part of the present invention, besides a brassiere like the above-mentioned embodiment, a bra slip, bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, a swimsuit, etc. are mentioned. The garment having the cup part of the present invention may have a trunk part extending to the vicinity of the waist or further to the lower side of the cup part and the back part as long as the action of the present invention is not hindered. .

本発明は、カップに形成されるダーツ先端部に糸端が長めに残った状態で見映えが悪くなったり、また、糸端を短くしてダーツ先端部からの糸抜けによりダーツ部が口を開くなどの問題が生じず、カップの表裏いずれの両面においてもスムーズな表面を有して、バストの補整効果や、デザイン性、着用感を阻害することなく、外観性及び着用感に優れるため、ダーツ部を設けることで立体的なカップを構成するカップ部を有する衣類として有用である。また、ダーツ部によるカップ部下部における芯地の役割も付加され、薄地の布地によって形成されるカップによってカップ部を構成する衣類として特に有用である。 In the present invention, the appearance of the dart is deteriorated when the end of the dart formed on the cup is left in a long state, or the dart is opened by shortening the end of the thread and removing the yarn from the end of the dart. Because there is no problem such as opening, it has a smooth surface on both the front and back sides of the cup, and it has excellent appearance and wearing feeling without impairing the bust correction effect, design, and wearing feeling, It is useful as a garment having a cup part constituting a three-dimensional cup by providing a dart part. Moreover, the role of the interlining in the cup part lower part by a dart part is added, and it is especially useful as clothing which comprises a cup part with the cup formed with a thin fabric.

本発明のカップ部を有する衣類のカップにおいて、ダーツ形成部の中心線を縫着した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which sewn the centerline of the dart formation part in the cup of the clothing which has a cup part of this invention. 図1のダーツ形成部を、中心線を中心に折り返し、外側となったダーツ形成部の側縁部でさらに折り返した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which turned up the dart formation part of FIG. 1 centering on the centerline, and was further turned up by the side edge part of the dart formation part which became the outer side. 図2の折り重ねたダーツ形成部を、縫着してダーツ部を形成した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which sewed the folded dart formation part of FIG. 2, and formed the dart part. 本発明のカップ部を有する衣類のカップを形成する布地片の裁断形状の一実施形態を示す平面図。The top view which shows one Embodiment of the cutting shape of the fabric piece which forms the cup of clothing which has a cup part of this invention. 本発明のカップ部を有する衣類の一実施形態であるブラジャーの正面図。The front view of the brassiere which is one embodiment of clothing which has a cup part of the present invention. 本発明のカップ部を有する衣類の別の実施形態であるブラジャーの正面図。The front view of the brassiere which is another embodiment of clothing which has a cup part of the present invention. 本発明のカップ部を有する衣類のカップにおいて、中表に重ね合わせた2枚の布地片のカップ前側上端縁部を縫着した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which sewn the cup front side upper edge edge of the two fabric pieces overlapped on the inner surface in the clothing cup which has a cup part of this invention. 図7の2枚の布地片を外表に折り返した状態を示す拡大図。FIG. 8 is an enlarged view showing a state in which the two pieces of fabric in FIG. 7 are folded back to the outer surface. 図7の2枚の布地片のカップ前側上端縁部を縫着した後の縫い代部をさらに裏地側の布地片に縫着した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which sewn the seam allowance part after sewing the cup front side upper end edge part of the two fabric pieces of FIG. 7 on the fabric piece of the lining side further. 従来のカップ部を有する衣類のカップにおいて、縫着前のダーツ形成部の平面形状を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the planar shape of the dart formation part before sewing in the cup of the clothing which has the conventional cup part. 図10のダーツ形成部の両側縁部及び縫い代部を重ねた状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which accumulated the both-sides edge part and sewing margin part of the dart formation part of FIG. 図11の重ねた両側縁部を縫着してダーツ部を形成した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which formed the dart part by sewing the both-sides edge part which accumulated in FIG. 図11の重ねた両側縁部を縫着してダーツ部を形成した状態を示す拡大図。The enlarged view which shows the state which formed the dart part by sewing the both-sides edge part which accumulated in FIG.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 ダーツ形成部
1’ ダーツ部
2 表地(布地片)
3 裏地(布地片)
4、4’ 中心線
6、5’、6’ダーツ形成部側縁部
7a、7c ダーツ部におけるカップ周縁端部
7b ダーツ先端部
8 縫着部

1 Dart forming part 1 'Dart part 2 Outer material (cloth piece)
3 Lining (cloth piece)
4, 4 'center line 6, 5', 6 'dart forming part side edge part 7a, 7c cup peripheral edge part 7b in dart part dart tip part 8 sewn part

Claims (7)

少なくとも、略椀状に形成するためにカップの略トップ部に向かうダーツ部を有する布地からなるカップ部を左右一対有する衣類であって、該カップは、略椀状に形成するための所定の面積とダーツ部分量に対応するダーツ形成部を有する略同型の表地と裏地の布地片を重ね合わせ、切り欠きのないダーツ形成部の中心線をカップ周縁端部からダーツ先端部に亘って縫着し、次に前記ダーツ形成部の中心線が内側となるよう表地と裏地の布地片をそれぞれダーツ形成部の両側縁部を重ね合わせて中表に折り畳んだ後、外側となったダーツ形成部の側縁部でさらに折り返してダーツ形成部を表地と裏地でそれぞれ布地が三重に重なった状態とし、前記表地と裏地の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部のカップ周縁端部側から表裏の折山線に沿ってダーツ先端部まで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部で折り返し前記ダーツ形成部の中心線に沿ってカップ周縁端部までを一連に縫着して、あるいは前記ダーツ形成部の中心線に沿ってカップ周縁端部側からダーツ先端部まで縫着し、さらにダーツ先端部で折り返し前記表地と裏地の外側に折り畳まれたダーツ形成部の表裏の折山線に沿ってカップ周縁端部までを一連に縫着して、一体になるよう前記表地と裏地を固着し、ダーツ部を形成することを特長とするカップ部を有する衣類。 At least a garment having a pair of left and right cup parts made of a fabric having a dart part facing a substantially top part of the cup so as to form a substantially bowl shape, the cup having a predetermined area for forming the cup shape And a cloth piece of lining that has a dart forming part corresponding to the dart part amount and a cloth piece of the lining are overlapped, and the center line of the dart forming part without notch is sewn from the cup peripheral edge part to the dart tip part. Next, after folding the fabric pieces of the outer and lining fabrics so that the center line of the dart forming portion is on the inner side and overlapping both side edges of the dart forming portion on the inner surface, the outer side of the dart forming portion becomes the outer side. Further fold back at the edge so that the dart forming part is in a state where the cloth overlaps with each other on the outer side and the lining, and the fold line on the front and back from the cup peripheral edge side of the dart forming part folded to the outside of the outer side and the lining Along Sewn up to the tip of the dart, and then folded back at the tip of the dart and sewed in series along the center line of the dart forming part to the edge of the cup, or the cup along the center line of the dart forming part. Sewing from the edge of the edge to the tip of the dart, and then loop back at the tip of the dart and sew a series of lines up to the edge of the cup along the fold line on the front and back of the dart forming part that is folded outward from the outer surface and the lining. A garment having a cup part, characterized in that the outer surface and the lining are fixed to form a dart part. 前記カップの一方につき、前記ダーツ部を1箇所乃至4箇所有することを特長とする請求項1記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 The garment having a cup part according to claim 1, wherein the dart part has one to four parts per one of the cups. 略同型の表地と裏地の前記布地片をカップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部に沿って縫着した後、該縫い代部が内側となるよう表地と裏地を折り返し、折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部を形成してなることを特長とする請求項1または2に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 After the cloth pieces of the substantially same type of outer and lining are overlapped with the inner surface on the outer surface when the cup is formed, and sewn along the seam margin that becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed, the seam margin is the inner side. The garment having a cup portion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the outer layer and the lining are folded back so that the folded fold line forms a front upper edge of the cup. 前記略同型の表地と裏地の布地片をカップ形成時にそれぞれ外側となる面を中表に重ね合わせ、カップ形成時に前側上端縁部となる縫い代部に沿って縫着した後、該縫い代部が内側となるよう表地と裏地を折り返し、表裏2枚の縫い代部を前記裏地の布地片側に倒し、該布地片に縫着固定し、折り返された折山線がカップの前側上端縁部を形成してなることを特長とする請求項3記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 The outer and outer fabric pieces of the same shape are overlapped with the inner surface when the cup is formed, and are sewn along the seam margin that becomes the front upper edge when the cup is formed. The front and back are folded back so that the two seam allowances on the front and back are tilted to the fabric piece side of the lining, and are sewn and fixed to the fabric piece, and the folded fold line forms the upper edge on the front side of the cup. A garment having a cup portion according to claim 3. 前記カップが、薄地の布地片から形成されてなることを特長とする請求項1乃至4のいずれか一項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。   The garment having a cup portion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cup is formed of a thin fabric piece. 前記カップが、薄地で伸縮性を有する布地片から形成されてなることを特長とする請求項5に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。   6. The garment having a cup portion according to claim 5, wherein the cup is formed of a thin fabric piece having elasticity. 前記カップ部を有する衣類は、ブラジャー、ブラスリップ、ブラキャミソール、ボディスーツ、カップ付きテディ、水着から選ばれる衣類である請求項1乃至6のいずれか一項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。

The garment having a cup part according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the garment having the cup part is a garment selected from a brassiere, a brass lip, a bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, and a swimsuit.

JP2006090354A 2006-03-29 2006-03-29 Clothing with cup Expired - Fee Related JP4527680B2 (en)

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JP5568830B2 (en) * 2011-01-28 2014-08-13 株式会社ワコール Clothing having cup portion and method for manufacturing the same
JP5725334B2 (en) * 2011-03-03 2015-05-27 株式会社ワコール Clothing having cup portion and method for manufacturing the same
KR101433795B1 (en) * 2013-05-03 2014-08-25 나진원 Body suit

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US2520836A (en) * 1946-07-23 1950-08-29 Freedman Ruth Brassiere
CH285463A (en) * 1950-11-27 1952-09-15 Etter Marga Brassiere.
US4449533A (en) * 1982-07-12 1984-05-22 Consolidated Foods Corporation Brassiere
JPH0312019U (en) * 1989-06-16 1991-02-07
JP2001207307A (en) * 2000-01-24 2001-08-03 Kuniko Maki Brassieres

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JPS5010421U (en) * 1973-05-25 1975-02-03
JPS5373127U (en) * 1976-11-20 1978-06-19
JPS5430527U (en) * 1977-07-30 1979-02-28
JPS54102330U (en) * 1977-12-26 1979-07-19
JPS5696901A (en) * 1980-10-14 1981-08-05 Gunze Kk Production of seamless brassiere
JPS58192912U (en) * 1982-06-15 1983-12-22 ピジヨン株式会社 maternity bra
JP2669781B2 (en) * 1994-03-08 1997-10-29 株式会社ワコール Structure of breast receiving cup

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US2520836A (en) * 1946-07-23 1950-08-29 Freedman Ruth Brassiere
CH285463A (en) * 1950-11-27 1952-09-15 Etter Marga Brassiere.
US4449533A (en) * 1982-07-12 1984-05-22 Consolidated Foods Corporation Brassiere
JPH0312019U (en) * 1989-06-16 1991-02-07
JP2001207307A (en) * 2000-01-24 2001-08-03 Kuniko Maki Brassieres

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