JP2015089985A - Jacket - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a jacket which has shoulder parts thinner than those having conventional shoulder pads, has tension and shape retention in shoulder line parts and the shoulder parts and emphasizes shoulder lines.SOLUTION: Shoulder line reinforcement cores 3 extending along a shoulder line from a neckline 4 to an armhole 5 are attached to shoulder margins 1a, 2a of bodies 1, 2 in the rear face of a jacket, a reinforcement cloth 6 bonded with a frontal fabric and an adhesive core covers the shoulder margins and are attached to the neckline and the armhole.

Description

  The present invention relates to an upper garment such as a blouse, a shirt, and a jacket, and more particularly to an upper garment having a feature in a shoulder portion.

  Shoulder pads are placed on the shoulders of the clothes to correct or emphasize the shoulder lines (ie, the line that stitches the front and back bodies together at the shoulders) and shoulders. Off-the-shelf products such as semi-circles and rectangles, which use sponge or cotton as a cushioning material and are covered with a nonwoven fabric or lining, are commercially available. For men's clothing, a combination of a hair core and cotton is generally used.

  Shoulder pads that have a width from half the length of the shoulder to the shoulder line (ie, the line that stitches the front and back bodies together at the shoulder) to about 2/3 are often used. [See FIG. 3 of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-181917 (Patent Document 1), FIG. 6 and FIG. 7 of Japanese Patent No. 3594727 (Patent Document 2]).

  However, if the fabric is thin, such as a blouse or shirt, the shape of the shoulder pad can be seen from the appearance, and the shoulder line is stepped at the boundary between where the shoulder pad is present and where it is not present, causing a problem that the appearance is not good .

  Also, if the outer garment is thick, such as a jacket or a backed jacket, the presence of the shoulder pad is not very conspicuous from the appearance, but if you try to show the shoulder line straight and clean, you will need a thick shoulder pad. Since they are used, there is a problem that they become heavy and are liable to cause scratches.

  Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-181917 (Patent Document 1) is composed of a pad body having a predetermined thickness by stacking a plurality of cushion materials, and a reinforcing core member interposed in the pad body. The main body has a size covering almost the entire area of the shoulder from the collared part to the sleeved part, and the inner end of the core material extends to the vicinity of the collared part so that it can be sewn together with the collar and with a sleeve. A shoulder pad has been proposed in which a core material does not exist within a predetermined dimension (about 3 cm) from the part.

  In addition, since it requires skill to attach the shoulder pad, it has been proposed to make it easy to attach.

  For example, in Japanese Patent No. 3594727 (Patent Document 2), an arm hole corresponding part auxiliary material and a shoulder seam for attaching to an arm hole corresponding part and a shoulder seam corresponding part of a shoulder pad main body along a seam allowance of a body and a sleeve. It has been proposed to provide a corresponding part auxiliary material.

  Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-37015 (Patent Document 3) attaches a bag for inserting a shoulder pad to the back of the shoulder of a garment, and attaches the shoulder pad in the bag detachably by a velvet fastener (so-called hook-and-loop fastener). It has been proposed.

JP 2001-181917 A Japanese Patent No. 3594727 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-37015

  A shoulder pad made up of a pad body having a thickness as disclosed in Patent Document 1 and a reinforcing core material interposed in the pad body can be applied to clothes such as a suit or a back jacket. However, it cannot be applied to unbacked jackets, blouses, shirts, etc. because the shoulder pads stand out. Moreover, since the shoulder pad is thick and thick, there is a problem that the shoulder pad is heavy and the wearing feeling is bad.

  The shoulder pad disclosed in Patent Document 2 has a strip-shaped auxiliary material attached to the shoulder pad body in advance, and is fastened to clothes at the location of the auxiliary material. The shape of the pad can be seen from the appearance, and the shoulder line is stepped at the boundary between where the shoulder pad is present and where it is not present, resulting in a problem that the appearance is not good.

  The shoulder pad mounting structure disclosed in Patent Document 3 cannot be applied to clothes without a shoulder back because the shoulder pad storage bag is attached to the back of the shoulder. In addition, velvet fasteners must be attached to both the bag and the shoulder pad, which takes time. In addition, even if a shoulder pad is placed in the bag, there is a problem that the shoulder line is stepped at the boundary between the portion where the shoulder pad is present and the portion where the shoulder pad is not present, and the appearance is not good.

  An object of the present invention is to provide an upper garment in which the shoulder portion of the upper garment is thinner than that of a conventional shoulder pad, and the shoulder line portion and the shoulder portion have tension and shape retention, thereby emphasizing the shoulder line. And

  In the present invention, on the back side of the upper garment, a shoulder line reinforcing core extending along the shoulder line from the neckline to the armhole is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the body, and the shoulder reinforcing cloth in which the outer material and the adhesive core are bonded The above-mentioned object is achieved by an upper garment characterized in that it is attached to the neckline and the armhole over the shoulder seam allowance.

  It is preferable that the shoulder line reinforcing core is attached to a shoulder seam allowance of the front body, the shoulder seam allowance of the front body is tilted to the back body side, and an edge thereof is sewn to the back body. Moreover, when the upper garment is not backed, it is preferable that the shoulder line reinforcing core is covered with a shoulder seam allowance.

  It is preferable that the outer surface of the shoulder reinforcing cloth is the same as the outer surface of the body. Moreover, it is preferable that a shoulder reinforcement cloth consists of one surface material and one or more adhesive cores. Alternatively, two shoulder reinforcement cloths composed of one outer material and one or more adhesive cores are overlapped, and the two shoulder reinforcement cloths are stitched together at the periphery except for the edge of the neckline. A reinforcing cloth is configured, and it is preferable that both outer side surfaces of the overlapping shoulder reinforcing cloth are front cloths.

  According to the present invention, on the back side of the upper garment, the shoulder line reinforcing core is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the body along the shoulder line from the neckline to the armhole, and the shoulder reinforcing cloth obtained by bonding the outer material and the adhesive core is the shoulder. The shoulder line is attached to the neckline and sleeves by covering the shoulder seam with the line reinforcement core attached, so the shoulder line becomes straight due to the synergistic effect of the shoulder line reinforcement core and the shoulder reinforcement cloth, and a beautiful shoulder line is maintained. The shoulder is also tensioned and shaped. Thereby, the upper garment can be made into the design which emphasized the shoulder line. In addition, since the shoulder portion has tension and shape retention, it can be shown as a beautiful shoulder portion without unnecessary wrinkles or the like when the upper garment is worn.

  According to the present invention, since the shoulder line reinforcing core extends from the neckline to the armhole, there is no step in the shoulder line from the neckline to the armhole. Moreover, since the shoulder line reinforcing core is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the body, the shoulder line reinforcing core is not seen through from the front side of the upper garment.

  Attaching the shoulder wire reinforcement core to the shoulder seam allowance of the front body, tilting the shoulder seam allowance of the front body to the back body side, and the edge of the shoulder body is sewn to the back body, affecting the front body body Since there is no, you can freely design the shape of the front body.

  If the upper garment where the shoulder line reinforcement core is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the body is a single tailored lining such as a blouse or shirt, the shoulder line reinforcement core is Since it can not be seen from the back side, the upper garment can be given a sense of quality.

  According to the present invention, instead of the conventional shoulder pad, the shoulder reinforcing cloth in which the outer material and the adhesive core are bonded is used, so that the shoulder portion of the upper garment can be made thinner than the conventional shoulder pad. . Also, the conventional shoulder pad does not use an adhesive core, but according to the present invention, the conventional shoulder pad cushion material is used without using the adhesive core, and the shoulder is reinforced by adhering it to the outer surface. The fabric can be stretched and shaped.

  In addition, if the shoulder reinforcement cloth is made with the body cover, it can be incorporated into the cutting pattern of the body, so when changing the body size, the shoulder reinforcement cloth should be resized accordingly. It is easy, and the shoulder reinforcement cloth can be cut together with the body at the time of cutting.

  According to the present invention, the shoulder reinforcing cloth may be one surface material and one adhesive core, but if two or more adhesive cores are bonded to one surface material, the shoulder reinforcement cloth can be made more tensioned. . In addition, if the body fabric is thin and transparent, use a layered shoulder reinforcement cloth so that the adhesive core does not show through even when viewed from the front side of the upper garment, and the adhesive core does not appear even when viewed from the back side of the upper garment. Since it is not visible, the upper garment can be given a sense of quality.

FIG. 1 shows how to attach a shoulder wire reinforcing core, FIG. 1 (a) is a plan view showing an embodiment of the shoulder wire reinforcing core in the present invention, and FIG. 1 (b) is FIG. 1 (a). The top view which shows the back side of the right shoulder part of the upper garment which sewn the shown shoulder line reinforcement core, FIG.1 (c) is the top view which looked at the shoulder part of the upper garment shown in FIG.1 (b) from the front side, figure 1 (d) is a schematic cross-sectional view of a shoulder portion as viewed in the AA direction shown in FIG. 1 (c). FIG. 2 shows another process of attaching the shoulder line reinforcing core, FIG. 2 (a) is a plan view of another embodiment of the shoulder line reinforcing core in the present invention, and FIG. 2 (b) is FIG. The top view which looked at the shoulder part of the right front body of the upper garment which sewn the shoulder line reinforcement core shown in (a) to the shoulder seam allowance, FIG.2 (c) is the right back of the upper garment shown in FIG.2 (b) The body is turned upside down around the front part of the body, and the front and back bodies are overlapped on the inside, and the shoulder is sewn along the shoulder line from the back side of the right back body. 2 (d) is a plan view of the shoulder portion to which the shoulder wire reinforcing core is attached as viewed from the front side of the upper garment, and FIG. 2 (e) is viewed in the BB direction shown in FIG. 2 (d). It is typical sectional drawing of a shoulder line part. FIG. 3 shows still another embodiment of how to attach the shoulder wire reinforcing core, and FIG. 3 (a) is a plan view seen from the back side of the right rear body before the shoulder wire reinforcing core is attached, FIG. FIG. 3B is a plan view seen from the back side of the shoulder line reinforcing core and the right front body. FIG. 3C is a plan view seen from the back side of the right front body with the shoulder line reinforcing core and the right front body sewn. d) is a plan view seen from the back side of the back body showing a state where the shoulder line reinforcing core shown in FIG. 3 is returned to the back body side at the above-mentioned sewing position, and FIG. The top view which looked at the attached shoulder part from the front side of the upper garment, FIG.3 (f) is typical sectional drawing of the shoulder line part seen in CC direction shown in FIG.3 (e). FIG. 4 is a plan view showing an embodiment of a shoulder reinforcing cloth, FIG. 4 (a) is a plan view showing a surface material and an adhesive core, and FIG. 4 (b) is a shoulder reinforcement of this embodiment as seen from the adhesive core side. It is a top view of cloth. FIG. 5 is a plan view showing another embodiment of the shoulder reinforcing cloth, FIG. 5 (a) is a plan view of the outer surface of the shoulder reinforcing cloth as viewed from the front surface side, and FIG. FIG. 5 (c) is an adhesive core having the same size and shape as the outer surface, and FIG. 5 (d) is a plan view of the shoulder reinforcing cloth of this embodiment as viewed from the outer surface side. FIG. 6 is a plan view showing still another embodiment, FIG. 6 (a) is a plan view of one shoulder reinforcing fabric surface as seen from the back side, and FIG. 6 (b) is bonded to the surface material. FIG. 6 (c) is a plan view of the shoulder reinforcing cloth as viewed from the adhesive core side, and FIG. 6 (d) is a plan view of another shoulder reinforcing cloth as viewed from the back side. 6 (e) is a plan view of an ascending adhesive core (that is, a core having a size and a shape with no stitching allowance), and FIG. 6 (f) is a plan view of the other shoulder reinforcing cloth as viewed from the ascending core side. FIG. It is the top view which looked at the shoulder part of one Example of the upper garment of this invention from the back side. It is another Example of the upper garment of this invention, A heel is a loofah color, FIG. 8 (a) is the top view which looked at the shoulder part of the right body from the back side, FIG.8 (b) is the shoulder part of the right body. It is the front view seen from the back side. Fig. 9A is another embodiment of the upper garment of the present invention, wherein the collar is a shirt collar, Fig. 9A is a plan view of the shoulder of the right body viewed from the back side, and Fig. 9B is the shoulder of the right body. It is the front view which looked at from the back side.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on the embodiments shown in the drawings. The upper garment of the present invention is such that a shoulder line reinforcing core and a shoulder reinforcing cloth are attached to the shoulder portion of the upper garment.

  The shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is attached to the shoulder seam allowance on the back side of the upper garment, and extends along the shoulder line from the neckline to the armhole. The shoulder reinforcing core 3 is a narrow core and is not particularly limited as a core material, but is preferably an adhesive core in order to provide tension. The width of the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is approximately the same as the width of the shoulder seam allowance (from slightly narrower to slightly wider than the width of the shoulder seam allowance).

  The shoulder line reinforcing core 3 of the embodiment shown in FIG. 1 is an adhesive core having a width slightly wider than the shoulder seam allowance. In FIG. 1A, the position of the shoulder line is indicated by a virtual line (two-dot chain line). FIG.1 (b) has shown the back side of the shoulder part of the right side of the upper garment in the state where the shoulder wire reinforcement core 3 was attached. In FIG. 1B, reference numeral 1 is a front body, reference numeral 2 is a back body, reference numeral 4 is a neckline (indicated by an alternate long and short dash line, an outline of the fabric cut by a solid line, and between the alternate long and short dashed line) Reference numeral 5 denotes an armhole (indicated by an alternate long and short dash line, an outline of the fabric cut by a solid line, and a seam allowance between the alternate long and short dash line). In addition, although the shape of the neckline shown in FIG.1 (b) is a tailored collar, it is not limited to this.

  The width of the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 shown in FIG. 1A is slightly wider than the shoulder seam allowance, but the length is from the neckline 4 to the armhole 5 but the neckline side is the seam allowance. The length is reserved (that is, the length up to the up line without sewing allowance). In order to attach the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 to the upper garment, the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is first bonded to the shoulder seam allowance 1a [see FIG. 1 (d)] on the back side of the front body 1.

  Next, the front body 1 and the back body 2 are overlapped with each other in the middle table, and the shoulder line is sewn on the sewing machine (shown by the seam 11 in FIGS. 1B and 1D). Thereafter, it is preferably cut so that the width of the shoulder seam allowance 2a of the back body 2 is reduced [see FIG. 1 (d)]. When the shoulder line is sewn, the front body 1 and the back body 2 that are overlapped are opened with the shoulder line seam 11 as the center, spread flat, and the shoulder body reinforcing core 3 is bonded. The shoulder seam allowance 1a and the shoulder seam allowance 2a of the back body 2 are brought down to the back body 2 side, and are ironed and arranged. As shown in FIG. 1 (b), a presser stitch (seam) 12 is hung on the edge of the shoulder seam allowance 1 a of the front body 1 with a sewing machine, and the shoulder seam allowance 1 a of the front body 1 is sewn to the back body 2. .

  The front side of the shoulder part of the upper garment thus manufactured is in the state shown in FIG. 1 (c). The stitched portion of the front body 1 and the back body 2 is the shoulder line 10, and the back side of the shoulder part is shown in FIG. In the state shown in b), the shoulder reinforcing core 3 is directly visible from the back side of the upper garment. For this reason, such a method for attaching the shoulder wire reinforcing core is suitable for an upper garment such as a lining (half back or full back), and the shoulder wire reinforcing core 3 should be hidden by the lining of the upper garment or facing it. preferable.

  In this embodiment, the width of the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is made wider than the width of the shoulder seam allowance of the front body 1 so that the shoulder line 10 is more emphasized. Therefore, the cloth of the upper garment is suitable for the cloth which is not transparent so that the shoulder reinforcement core 3 is not reflected on the front side of the upper garment. When the upper garment is thin and transparent, the width of the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is preferably equal to or smaller than the width of the shoulder seam allowance of the front body 1.

  FIG. 2 shows another process of attaching the shoulder line reinforcing core. In this embodiment, the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 shown in FIG. 2A has the same shape as the shoulder seam allowance of the front body 1. is there. The shoulder-line reinforcing core 3 is bonded to the shoulder seam allowance on the front side of the front body 1. Next, as shown in FIG. 2 (b), the front body 1 and the back body 2 are overlapped on the outer surface, and the neckline 4 is cut from the neckline 4 at a position closer to the edge than the center of the width of the shoulder seams 1a, 2a. A sewing machine is applied up to 5 [indicated by seam 13 in FIGS. 2 (b) and 2 (e)].

  As shown in FIG. 2 (c), the back body 2 is turned over the front body 1 around the sewn portion (the seam 13), and the front body 1 and the back body 2 are overlapped on the inner surface. . Preferably, the seam 13 is trimmed with an iron so that the hairs are aligned. Then, the shoulder line is sewn on the sewing machine (shown by stitches 11 in FIGS. 2C and 2E). As a result, the shoulder seams 1a and 2a of the front body 1 and the back body 2 become bag-sewn, and the shoulder-line reinforcing core 3 enters the bag-sewn and becomes invisible from the outside (see FIG. 2 (e)).

  Next, when the shoulder line is sewed, the front body 1 and the back body 2 that have been stacked are opened around the shoulder line seam 11 and spread flat, and then the shoulder seam 1a that has become a bag stitch 2a is tilted to the back body 2 side, ironed and trimmed, and the shoulder seam allowance 1a, 2a that has been sewn into a bag, the presser stitch (seam) 12 is hung on the edge of the sewing machine, and the shoulder seam allowance 1a of the front body 1 Is sewn to the back body 2.

  FIG. 3 shows still another process of attaching the shoulder reinforcing core. In this embodiment, first, as shown in FIG. 3 (a), the front body 1 and the back body 2 are overlapped on the inner surface and the shoulder line is sewn on the sewing machine [FIGS. 3 (a), 3 (b) and FIG. 3 (f) is indicated by seam 11]. Cut so that the width of the shoulder seam allowance 2a of the back body 1 is narrowed. The separated portion is denoted by reference numeral 2a ′ [see FIG. 3 (a)]. The shoulder line reinforcing core 3 shown in FIG. 3 (b) has the same shape as the shoulder seam allowance 1a of the front body 1, and is placed on the shoulder seam allowance 1a on the back side of the front body 1, with the adhesive surface facing outward. As shown in FIG. 3 (c), the sewing machine is put on and sewn (shown by stitches 13 in FIGS. 3 (c) and 3 (f)).

  The adhesive core 3 is returned on the shoulder seam allowance 2a of the back body 2 around the sewn portion (the seam 13). This state is shown in FIG. 3 (d), and the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 in FIG. 3 (d) has a non-bonding surface. The adhesive core 3 is ironed and trimmed (the adhesive surfaces of the folded shoulder wire reinforcing core 3 are bonded to each other. Further, as shown in FIG. 3 (f), the folded portion of the shoulder wire reinforcing core 3 is If the width is wide, it is also bonded to the shoulder seam allowance 2a of the back body 2.)

  Next, when the shoulder line is sewed, the front body 1 and the back body 2 that have been overlapped are opened with the shoulder line seam 11 as the center, spread flat, and the shoulder line folded in half. Tilt the reinforcing core 3 and the shoulder seams 1a, 2a toward the back body 2 (in FIG. 3 (d), the direction shown by the arrow S is shown), iron and adjust the shoulder seams 1a of the front body 1 The presser stitch (seam) 12 is applied to the sewing machine 1 and the shoulder seam allowance 1a of the front body 1 is sewn to the back body 2. The front side of the shoulder portion of the upper garment thus manufactured is in the state shown in FIG. 3 (e). The stitched portion of the front body 1 and the back body 2 is the shoulder line 10, and the presser stitch 12 is formed on the back body 2. appear.

  The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 reinforces the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 at the shoulder portion to give tension and shape retention to the shoulder portion. The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is composed of the outer material 7 and the adhesive core 8 and has a substantially trapezoidal shape (or substantially It has a triangular shape, and the short side is attached to the neckline and the long side is attached to the armhole.

  In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is composed of one surface material 7 and one adhesive core 8, and the one shown in FIG. 4 is a shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 for the right body, which is for the left body. The shoulder reinforcement cloth has a shape that is reversed left and right.

  As shown in FIG. 4 (a), the outer material 7 has a length from the contour line including the seam allowance of the neckline to the contour line including the seam allowance of the armhole, the width of the neckline side is narrow, and the armhole side The width of is wide. The adhesive core 8 has substantially the same shape as the outer material 7, but has a length that refrains from the seam allowance, that is, the length from the neckline upline to the armlined upline, and the width extends beyond the outer material 7. It is preferable to make it the same as or slightly narrower than the width of the outer material 7 so as not to be present. FIG. 4B shows a state in which the adhesive core 8 is bonded to the back surface of the surface material 7 in a state where the sewing allowance is reserved.

  Since the edge of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 shown in FIG. 4B is just cut, it is preferable that the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is not directly visible from the back side of the upper garment. For this reason, it is preferable to attach to the upper garment such as the back (half back or full back) so that the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is hidden by the lining of the upper garment or the turning back.

  FIG. 5 shows another embodiment of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6. The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 of this embodiment is composed of one surface 7 and two adhesive cores 8 (81, 82), as shown in FIG. Is a shoulder reinforcement cloth 6 for the right body, and the shoulder reinforcement cloth for the left body has a shape that is reversed left and right.

  FIG. 5 (a) shows the surface side of the outer surface 7 of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6. As shown in FIG. 5 (b), the outer surface of the outer surface 7 is rotated around the shape of the outer surface 7 except for the sewing allowance. The up-bound adhesive core 81 having a reduced shape is bonded. FIG. 5C shows an adhesive core 82 having the same size and shape as the outer material 7 with the adhesive surface facing up. Then, this adhesive core 82 is overlapped on the surface of the outer surface 7 where the adhesive core 81 is bonded to the back surface with the adhesive surface outside (that is, overlapped on the middle surface), and the edge (short side) on the boring side Except for), sew the remaining three sides with a sewing machine. In addition, when the seam allowance of 3 sides sewn is wide, it is preferable to cut the seam allowance to be about 0.5 cm. Next, the stitched outer material 7 and the adhesive core 81 are formed in a bag shape with the back side (that is, the back surface side of the outer material 7 and the adhesive surface side of the adhesive core 81) being outside, so this is opened. Flip the front and back from the edge (short side) of the neckline side so that the front side is the outside. Then, the adhesive core 82 is bonded to the upward core 81 by ironing. The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 made in this way is shown in FIG. 5 (d), and in this figure, an up line on the neckline side is shown by a one-dot chain line.

  The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 of this embodiment has a beautiful finish on the edges other than the side of the neckline, so that it can be applied to an upper garment with a back or an upper garment. When attaching to a garment without a back, it should be attached so that the adhesive core 82 side is in contact with the cloth of the body and the outer surface 7 side is visible from the outside (the back side of the upper garment), and the cloth of the body cannot be seen through the adhesive core 82. It is preferable that there is a certain thickness. As the outer material 7, it is preferable to use a cloth and a cloth for the body, since they can be cut together when the body is cut.

  FIG. 6 is a plan view for explaining a procedure for manufacturing the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 of still another embodiment of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6. In this embodiment, the shoulder is composed of one surface material and one or more adhesive cores. Two reinforcing cloths are overlapped, and the two shoulder reinforcing cloths are stitched at the peripheral edge except for the edge of the neckline side to constitute one overlapping shoulder reinforcing cloth. In addition, what was illustrated in FIG. 6 is a thing for right body parts, and the shoulder reinforcement cloth for left body parts becomes the shape where right and left were reversed.

  FIG. 6A shows the back surface side of the outer surface 71 for one shoulder reinforcing cloth, and FIG. 6B shows an adhesive core 81 having the same shape as the outer surface 71 and the surface that is not the adhesive surface. . A shoulder reinforcing cloth 61 in which the adhesive core 81 in the state shown in FIG. 6B is placed on the surface 71 in the state shown in FIG. This is shown in FIG.

  FIG. 6D shows the back surface side of the outer shoulder 72 for the other shoulder reinforcing cloth, and FIG. 6E shows an ascending adhesive core (that is, a core having no seam allowance and having a finished size and shape) 82. The surface that is not the adhesive surface is shown. A shoulder reinforcing cloth 62 is shown in which the up-adhesive core 82 in the state shown in FIG. 6 (e) is overlapped on the surface 72 in the state shown in FIG. 6 (f).

  The surface of the outer surface 71 of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 61 and the surface of the outer surface 72 of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 62 are brought into contact with each other (that is, overlapped with the middle surface). When superposed in this manner, the surface that is not the adhesive surface of the adhesive core 81 and the surface that is not the adhesive surface of the adhesive core 82 become the outside. Then, the remaining three sides are sewn with a sewing machine except for the edge (short side) on the side of the neckline of the superimposed shoulder reinforcing cloths 61 and 62. Next, since the stitched shoulder reinforcing cloths 61 and 62 are formed in a bag shape with the adhesive cores 81 and 82 facing outward, the front and back sides are turned over from the open edge (short side) of the neckline. Thus, the surface of the outer surface 71 of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 61 and the surface of the outer surface 72 of the shoulder reinforcing cloth 62 are arranged outside. Then iron it and shape it. In the finished shoulder reinforcing cloth 6, both outer surfaces are front surfaces, and the inner adhesive core 81 and the adhesive core 82 are separated from each other without being bonded.

  The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 of this embodiment has a beautiful finish on the edges other than the side of the neckline, so that it can be applied to an upper garment with a back or an upper garment. Further, the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 of this embodiment can be applied to a body cloth that is thin and transparent because both outer surfaces are outer fabrics. It is preferable that the outer fabrics 71 and 72 be made of cloth with the body of the body, since it can be cut together when the body is cut.

  FIG. 7 is a plan view of the shoulder portion of one embodiment of the upper garment according to the present invention as seen from the back side, and the shape of the neckline of this garment is a tailored collar. 1 is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the front body 1 and the back body 2. A shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 shown in FIG. 4 is attached to the neckline 4 and the armhole 5 on the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 so as to cover the shoulder seam allowance. When attaching the shoulder reinforcement cloth 6, the neckline side may be sandwiched between the neckline of the body and sewn with a sewing machine, and the armhole side may be fitted to the shoulder of the body and fixed with a hand or a machine. The upper garment of this embodiment is preferably backed.

  FIG. 8 shows a case where the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 and the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 are applied to the back side of the upper coat of the loofah collar. Since this upper garment has no back, as shown in FIG. 2 or FIG. 3, the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 (shown by a two-dot chain line) is attached to the shoulder seam allowance so that the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is hidden. Is preferred.

  In FIG. 8, the collar 9 is a loofah color, the reference numeral 91 is a lapel return line, the reference numeral 92 is a return of the collar, and the reference numeral 41 indicates a neckline stitch.

  The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 may be any of those described with reference to FIG. 5 or FIG. 6, and is selected in consideration of the design of the upper garment, the thickness of the cloth of the body, and the like. The shoulder reinforcement cloth 6 is attached to the neckline 4 and the armhole 5 so as to cover the shoulder seam allowance. In the case of the illustrated loofah collar, when the shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is attached, the neckline side is sandwiched between the neckline allowance and the seam allowance on the back body 2 side, and the front body 1 side is sandwiched between the front body 1 and the facing 92. Then, it is only necessary to sew at the neckline seam 41 and adjust the armhole side to the shoulder of the body, and stop it by hand or sewing. Further, it is preferable that the end of the facing 92 is fixed to the hand or the sewing machine 93.

  FIG. 9 shows a case in which a shoulder line reinforcing core 3 (shown by a two-dot chain line) and a shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 are applied to the back side of an upper garment of a shirt collar. Since this upper garment has no back, it is preferable to attach the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 to the shoulder seam allowance so that the shoulder line reinforcing core 3 is hidden as described with reference to FIG. 2 or FIG.

  The shirt collar 9 consists of a front collar and a back collar and does not look like a loofah color. At the time of attaching the shoulder reinforcement cloth 6, the neckline side is sewn by overlapping the seam allowance of the back collar, the neckline seam allowance of the body and the shoulder reinforcement cloth 6 and the seam allowance side of the shoulder reinforcement cloth, and the upper face is overlapped and brazed. The shoulder reinforcing cloth 6 is sandwiched between the front and back folds.

1 Front body 1a Shoulder seam allowance 2 Back body 2a Back shoulder shoulder seam 3 Shoulder line reinforcement core 4 Neckline 5 Armhole 6 Shoulder reinforcement cloth

Claims (6)

  On the back side of the upper garment, a shoulder line reinforcing core extending along the shoulder line from the neckline to the armhole is attached to the shoulder seam allowance of the body, and a shoulder reinforcing cloth bonded to the outer material and the adhesive core provides the shoulder seam allowance. An upper garment characterized by being covered and attached to a neckline and a armhole.   The shoulder line reinforcing core is attached to a shoulder seam allowance of a front body, the shoulder seam allowance of the front body is tilted to the back body side, and an edge thereof is sewn to the back body. Item 1. Top garment.   The upper garment according to claim 2, wherein the shoulder line reinforcing core is covered with a shoulder seam allowance.   The upper garment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a surface of the shoulder reinforcing cloth is a cloth with a body of the body.   The upper garment according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shoulder reinforcing cloth is composed of one surface material and one or more adhesive cores.   Two shoulder reinforcement cloths composed of one outer material and one or more adhesive cores are overlapped, and the two shoulder reinforcement cloths are stitched together at the periphery except for the edge on the side of the neckline. The upper garment according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein both outer side surfaces of the overlapping shoulder reinforcing cloth are outer fabrics.

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