JP4929310B2 - Knit shirt by Cut and Thorn - Google Patents

Knit shirt by Cut and Thorn Download PDF

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JP4929310B2
JP4929310B2 JP2009106574A JP2009106574A JP4929310B2 JP 4929310 B2 JP4929310 B2 JP 4929310B2 JP 2009106574 A JP2009106574 A JP 2009106574A JP 2009106574 A JP2009106574 A JP 2009106574A JP 4929310 B2 JP4929310 B2 JP 4929310B2
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sleeve
line
armhole
seam
shirt
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JP2010255137A (en
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裕信 古川
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Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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本発明はカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツ関する。特に、ゴルフ等のスポーツを行う際に着用するのに適したニットシャツに関するものである。   The present invention relates to a knit shirt by Cut and Thorn. In particular, the present invention relates to a knit shirt suitable for wearing when playing sports such as golf.

従来、身体を捻り、腕を振り回すスポーツ(例えば、ゴルフやテニス等)を行う際に着用する上衣としては、ポロシャツやTシャツのようなカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツが多用されている。なお、カット・アンド・ソーンとは、丸編み機や経編み機で流し編みしたジャージー生地を用いて裁断、縫製すること、またはその製品のことで、略してカットソーとも言う。   2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, knit shirts such as polo shirts and T-shirts, such as polo shirts and T-shirts, are frequently used as upper garments to be worn when performing sports (for example, golf or tennis) that twist the body and swing arms. Cut-and-thorn refers to cutting and sewing using a jersey fabric cast by a circular knitting machine or a warp knitting machine, or a product thereof, which is also called a cut-and-sew for short.

このようなニットシャツは伸縮性があり、伸び易いので、製品の納品時は平らに折り畳んだ状態であり、販売時には展示のために一部の製品をハンガーに架けるが、大部分の製品は平らに折り畳んだ状態のままとしている。   These knit shirts are elastic and easy to stretch, so they are folded flat when delivered, and some products can be hung on hangers for display, but most products are flat. It remains in the folded state.

従来のニットシャツは前身頃と後身頃の幅は同寸法で、袖ぐりは、布製の衣服のようなカーブを付けず、ルーズフィットで直線的である。一方、袖は前袖と後袖における袖付け線を袖山線(袖の中心線)に対してほぼ対称にカーブさせて、前袖と後袖との差をなくしている。このように、従来のニットシャツは、袖が前に出るような構造になっていない。袖が前に出るようにしていないので、身頃と袖が平らになり、アイロン仕上げが行い易く、折り畳み易く、折り畳んだ状態でも嵩張らない。   Conventional knit shirts have the same width at the front and back, and the armholes are loosely fitted and straight, with no curves like cloth clothing. On the other hand, the sleeves have the front sleeve and the back sleeve curved by making the cuffing lines curve almost symmetrically with respect to the sleeve mountain line (the center line of the sleeve) to eliminate the difference between the front sleeve and the back sleeve. Thus, the conventional knit shirt does not have a structure in which the sleeve comes out forward. Since the sleeves are not projected forward, the body and sleeves are flat, easy to iron, easy to fold, and not even bulky when folded.

これに対して、ゴルフでは身体の捻りや腕の振り回しが大きいので、ゴルフ時に着用するのに適したポロシャツが特許第3582580号公報(特許文献1)において提案されている。   On the other hand, in golf, the twisting of the body and the swinging of the arms are large, so a polo shirt suitable for wearing during golf is proposed in Japanese Patent No. 3582580 (Patent Document 1).

この特許文献に開示されているポロシャツは、前身頃と後身頃を縫い合わせる脇縫い目および袖付けの縫い目が伸縮性を妨げているとして、これらを少なくすることを提案している。具体的には、後身頃と後袖部とを一枚布として、後袖部の袖付け縫い目を無くし、前身頃と後身頃の間に脇布を入れ、この脇布を袖下部まで延在させることにより、脇縫い目と腋下の縫い目を無くしている。   The polo shirt disclosed in this patent document proposes that the side seams and the seams with sleeves that sew the front body and the back body interfere with stretchability, and that these are reduced. Specifically, the back body and back sleeve are made into a single piece of cloth, the seams on the back of the back sleeve are eliminated, a side cloth is inserted between the front and back, and this side cloth extends to the bottom of the sleeve. By doing so, side seams and armpit seams are eliminated.

特許第3582580号公報Japanese Patent No. 3582580

特許文献1の発明のポロシャツは、後身頃と後袖部を一体化することにより、ゴルフのバックスイング時の追従性を良くしている。しかし、このような特殊なデザインであり、それが目立つために、消費者によっては好まれない。   The polo shirt of the invention of Patent Document 1 improves the followability during golf backswing by integrating the back body and the back sleeve. However, it is such a special design, and it is not preferred by consumers because it stands out.

本発明は、見た目が通常のニットシャツと同じように見え、しかも腕の振り回し時や身体の捻り時にも窮屈感のないニットシャツを提供することを目的とする。   An object of the present invention is to provide a knit shirt that looks the same as a normal knit shirt and that does not feel cramped even when the arm is swung or the body is twisted.

本発明は、カット・アンド・ソーンにより製造されるニットシャツであって、前身頃および後身頃のパターンにおいて、前袖ぐりおよび後袖ぐりの寸法をそれぞれ変化させずに、前袖ぐりと後袖ぐりが出会う袖ぐり最下点の位置を前方向に1.5cm以上移動し且つ前記袖ぐり最下点の前後の袖ぐり部分を丸みの付いた湾曲したものとし、袖のパターンは前袖の袖付け線を後袖の袖付け線よりも窪ませたカーブとし、これらのパターンに基いてニット生地を裁断し、縫製して製作した、袖付け縫い目上において袖縫い目が脇縫い目に対して前身頃側に1.5cm以上ずれていることを特徴とするカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツにより前記目的を達成する。   The present invention is a knit shirt manufactured by Cut and Thorn, wherein the front and back armholes are formed in the front body and back body patterns without changing the dimensions of the front and back armholes, respectively. The position of the lowest point of the armhole that you meet is moved 1.5 cm or more in the forward direction, and the front and back of the upper armhole point are rounded and curved, and the sleeve pattern is the front sleeve The front side of the sleeve seam with respect to the side seam on the sleeve seam produced by cutting and sewing the knit fabric based on these patterns. The above-mentioned object is achieved by a knit shirt made of cut and thorn, which is characterized by being shifted by 1.5 cm or more.

本発明は、カット・アンド・ソーンにより製造されるニットシャツであって、前身頃および後身頃のパターンにおいて前袖ぐりおよび後袖ぐりの寸法をそれぞれ変化させずに、前袖ぐりと後袖ぐりが出会う袖ぐり最下点の位置を前方向に1.5cm以上移動し且つ前記袖ぐり最下点の前後の袖ぐり部分を丸みの付いた湾曲したものとし、前身頃の脇線を前記移動した袖ぐり最下点の位置まで移動し、後身頃の脇線を前身頃の脇線の移動分と同寸法、後方向に移動し、前記移動後の脇線を有するものを前身頃および後身頃のパターンとし、袖のパターンにおいて前袖の袖付け線を後袖の袖付け線よりも窪ませたカーブとし且つ後袖の端から前記前身頃の脇線の移動分の倍の幅の部分を切り取ったものを袖のパターンとし、前記前身頃の移動後の脇線と後身頃の移動後の脇線との間の部分に相当する幅および長さを有するものの先端に、前記袖の切り取った部分に対応する幅および長さを有するものを前身頃側に傾斜するように配置して、滑らかなカーブで接続してマチのパターンとし、これらのパターンに基いてニット生地を裁断して、縫製して製作した、前袖とマチ布とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目が前身頃とマチ布とを縫い合わせた脇縫い目に連続しており、前身頃の脇縫い目の上端において、前袖とマチ布とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目と前身頃の脇縫い目の上端におけるマチ布の幅の中心との間の寸法が1.5cm以上であることを特徴とするカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツにより前記目的を達成する。   The present invention is a knit shirt manufactured by Cut and Thorn, where the front and back armholes meet without changing the front and back armhole dimensions in the front and back body patterns, respectively. The position of the bottom point of the armhole is moved 1.5 cm or more in the forward direction, and the armhole part before and after the bottom point of the armhole is rounded and curved. Move to the position of the lowermost point, move the side line of the back body to the same dimension as the movement of the side line of the front body, move in the rear direction, and have the side line after the movement of the front body and the back body In the sleeve pattern, in the sleeve pattern, the front sleeve's sleeve line is made a curve that is recessed from the rear sleeve's sleeve line, and the width of the front sleeve side line is doubled from the rear sleeve edge. The sleeve is used as a sleeve pattern, and after moving the front body A tip having a width and length corresponding to the portion between the line and the side line after movement of the back body is inclined toward the front body side with a width and length corresponding to the cut portion of the sleeve. The sleeve seams that are stitched together with the front sleeve and gusset cloth are produced by cutting and knitting the knit fabric based on these patterns. The width of the gusset cloth at the upper end of the side seam of the front body and the side seam of the front body is continuous with the side seam of the front body and the gusset cloth. The object is achieved by a knit shirt by cut-and-thorn characterized in that the dimension between the center of the knives is 1.5 cm or more.

この場合、マチ布はその幅方向よりも長さ方向に伸び易いものであることが好ましい。   In this case, it is preferable that the gusseted cloth is easier to extend in the length direction than in the width direction.

本発明によれば、ニットシャツであるにも拘らず、袖ぐりを前方向にずらすと共に、袖付け線のカーブも前袖側を後袖よりも窪ませて、袖が前側に付くようにしているので、ゴルフのスイングのように腕を振り回しても窮屈感がない。   According to the present invention, the sleeve is shifted in the forward direction in spite of being a knitted shirt, and the curve of the sleeve attachment line is also recessed on the front sleeve side from the rear sleeve so that the sleeve is attached to the front side. Therefore, even if you swing your arm like a golf swing, you will not feel cramped.

また、本発明によれば、袖を前方向に移動させたことにより、従来のニットシャツに比較して、身体にフィットし、着心地がよい。しかも、本発明のニットシャツは見た目が普通のニットシャツと同様であるので、着用するのに抵抗感が生じない。   Further, according to the present invention, the sleeve is moved in the forward direction, so that it fits the body and is comfortable to wear as compared with a conventional knit shirt. Moreover, since the knit shirt of the present invention looks the same as an ordinary knit shirt, there is no resistance to wearing.

本発明のマチを入れたニットシャツ、袖が前側に付くようにしているので、腕を挙げても窮屈感がない。また、マチ布をその長さ方向に伸び易いものとすると、より一層腕を挙げ易くなり、後袖の腋下部分をマチ布としているので、ゴルフのバックスイングのように腕を挙げて肩を回しても、窮屈感が生じない。 Since the knitted shirt containing the gusset of the present invention has the sleeves attached to the front side, there is no cramped feeling even if the arms are raised. Also, if the gusset cloth is easy to stretch in the length direction, it will be easier to raise the arm, and the armpit part of the back sleeve is made of gusset cloth, so raise the arm like the back swing of golf and shoulder Even when turned, there is no cramped feeling.

本発明のマチを入れたニットシャツは、マチ布をいれも、脇と腋下部分であるので、着用時はマチ布の存在が目立たないので、違和感が生じない。 Even if a gusset cloth is inserted, the knit shirt containing the gusset of the present invention is the side and armpit portion, so that the presence of the gusset cloth is not noticeable when worn, so there is no sense of incongruity.

図1(a)は本発明のニットシャツの袖ぐり(実線で示した)と従来のニットシャツの袖ぐり(点線で示した)との違いを説明するための、前身頃および後身頃のパターンを示す平面図であり、図1(b)は本発明のニットシャツの袖付け線(実線で示した)と従来のニットシャツの袖付け線(点線で示した)との違いを説明するための、袖のパターンを示す平面図である。FIG. 1A is a pattern of the front body and the back body for explaining the difference between the armhole (shown by a solid line) of the knit shirt of the present invention and the armhole of a conventional knit shirt (shown by a dotted line). FIG. 1B is a plan view illustrating the difference between the sleeve line (shown by a solid line) of the knit shirt of the present invention and the sleeve line (shown by a dotted line) of a conventional knit shirt. It is a top view which shows the pattern of a sleeve. 図2(a)は本発明のニットシャツの前身頃および後身頃のパターンを示す平面図、図2(b)は袖のパターンを示す平面図である。FIG. 2A is a plan view showing a pattern of the front and back bodies of the knit shirt of the present invention, and FIG. 2B is a plan view showing a pattern of sleeves. 図3(a)は従来のニットシャツを着用した状態を模式的に表わし平面図、図3(b)は小さ目な従来のニットシャツを着用した状態を模式的に表わし平面図、図3(c)は本発明のニットシャツを着用した状態を模式的に表わし平面図である。3A schematically shows a state in which a conventional knit shirt is worn, and is a plan view. FIG. 3B schematically shows a state in which a conventional knit shirt is worn, and is a plan view. FIG. ) Is a plan view schematically showing a state in which the knit shirt of the present invention is worn. 図4(a)は従来のニットシャツの袖を挙げた状態の模式的な側面図、図4(b)は本発明のニットシャツの袖を挙げた状態の模式的な側面図である。FIG. 4A is a schematic side view of a conventional knit shirt with the sleeves raised, and FIG. 4B is a schematic side view of the knit shirt of the present invention with the sleeves raised. 図5(a)〜(c)は本発明のニットシャツの実施例のパターンを作成する手順を示す平面図である。FIGS. 5A to 5C are plan views showing a procedure for creating a pattern of an embodiment of the knit shirt of the present invention. 図6(a)〜(d)は図5に示した身頃と組合せられるマチを作成する手順を示す平面図である。6A to 6D are plan views showing a procedure for creating a gusset to be combined with the body shown in FIG. 図7(a)は本発明のニットシャツの実施例に使用するパーツのパターンを示す平面図であり、図7(b)は前身頃、後身頃およびマチの組合せ関係を示す平面図である。FIG. 7A is a plan view showing a pattern of parts used in the embodiment of the knit shirt of the present invention, and FIG. 7B is a plan view showing a combination relation of the front body, the back body and the gusset. 本発明の実施例のニットシャツの袖を挙げた状態の模式的な側面図である。It is a typical side view of the state which raised the sleeve of the knit shirt of the example of the present invention.

以下、本発明の実施の形態を図面に基いて詳細に説明する。   Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.

図1(a)はニットシャツ用の前身頃1と後身頃2のパターンを示している。従来のニットシャツの袖ぐりは図1(a)において点線で示したように細長く、前袖ぐり3′と後袖ぐり4′の間の空間(アームホール)の幅が狭く、前袖ぐり3′と後袖ぐり4′が出会う最下点5′は脇線9上に位置し、この最下点5′で前袖ぐり3′と後袖ぐり4′が鋭角な状態で出会っている。   FIG. 1A shows a pattern of a front body 1 and a back body 2 for a knit shirt. The armhole of the conventional knit shirt is elongated as shown by the dotted line in FIG. 1A, the width of the space (armhole) between the front armhole 3 'and the rear armhole 4' is narrow, and the front armhole 3 ' The lowest point 5 'where the rear armhole 4' meets is located on the side line 9, and the front armhole 3 'and the rear armhole 4' meet at an acute angle at this lower point 5 '.

これに対して、本発明によれば、前袖ぐりおよび後袖ぐりの寸法をそれぞれ変化させずに、前袖ぐり3と後袖ぐり4を矢印Sで示すように前方向へ(すなわち、パターン上においては前身頃1の前中心6の方へ)移動させる。この場合、袖ぐり3、4の起点は移動させずに肩線7、8の先端とし、前袖ぐり3と後袖ぐり4が出会う袖ぐり最下点5の位置を前方向に1.5cm以上移動し且つ袖ぐり最下点5の前後の袖ぐり部分を丸みの付いた湾曲したものとする。   On the other hand, according to the present invention, the front and back armholes 3 and 4 are moved forward as indicated by the arrow S without changing the dimensions of the front and rear armholes (that is, on the pattern). In the case, the front body 1 is moved toward the front center 6). In this case, the starting points of the armholes 3 and 4 are not moved, but the ends of the shoulder lines 7 and 8 are moved, and the position of the lowermost point 5 where the front and third armholes 3 and 4 meet is 1.5 cm in the forward direction. It is assumed that the armholes that have moved above and around the armhole lowermost point 5 are rounded and curved.

このように袖ぐり下端部を丸みの付いた湾曲したものすると、本発明のニットシャツにおける袖ぐりの最下点5の位置は従来のものの最下点5′の位置よりも図1(a)で符号tで示した寸法だけ矢印Tで示すように上方に上がり、前袖ぐり3と後袖ぐり4の間の空間の幅が広くなる。なお、袖ぐり3、4を前方向に移動させる分量は好ましくは2cm程度である。   If the lower end of the armhole is rounded and curved as described above, the position of the lowest point 5 of the armhole in the knit shirt of the present invention is shown in FIG. 1 (a) than the position of the lowest point 5 'of the conventional one. The dimension indicated by the symbol t rises upward as indicated by the arrow T, and the width of the space between the front armhole 3 and the rear armhole 4 is increased. The amount by which the armholes 3 and 4 are moved forward is preferably about 2 cm.

ニットシャツの袖10(図1(b)参照)は通常1枚布からなり、袖山線(すなわち、袖の中心線、袖付け線の頂点を通る線)13の左右で、前身頃の袖ぐりに縫い合わされる方を前袖11と言い、後身頃の袖ぐりに縫い合わされる方を後袖12と言う。   The sleeve 10 of the knit shirt (see FIG. 1 (b)) is usually made of a single cloth, and the sleeves of the front body are formed on the left and right of the sleeve mountain line (that is, the line passing through the center line of the sleeve and the apex of the sleeve line) 13. The one sewn to the front sleeve 11 is called the front sleeve 11, and the one sewn to the back neckline is called the rear sleeve 12.

従来のニットシャツの袖のパターンにおいては、通常、図1(b)に示すように、袖付け線(前袖11の袖付け線14′は点線で、後袖12の袖付け線は実線)は袖山線に対して左右対称であった。   In the conventional knit shirt sleeve pattern, as shown in FIG. 1 (b), a sleeve attachment line (the sleeve attachment line 14 'of the front sleeve 11 is a dotted line, and the sleeve attachment line of the rear sleeve 12 is a solid line). Was symmetrical about the Sodeyama line.

これに対して、本発明のニットシャツの袖のパターンは前袖11の袖付け線14を後袖の袖付け線15よりも窪ませたカーブとしている。すなわち、従来の前袖の袖付け線14′よりも矢印Uに示すように移動させて、窪ませる。窪ませる分量は最大箇所で1.5〜2.5cmである。   On the other hand, the sleeve pattern of the knit shirt of the present invention has a curve in which the sleeve line 14 of the front sleeve 11 is recessed from the sleeve line 15 of the rear sleeve. That is, it is moved and depressed as shown by the arrow U rather than the conventional sleeve attaching line 14 'of the front sleeve. The amount to be depressed is 1.5 to 2.5 cm at the maximum position.

このように、袖ぐりを移動した本発明のニットシャツの前身頃1と後身頃2のパターンを図2(a)に示した。また、袖付け線のカーブを変化させた袖のパターンを図2(b)に示した。   Thus, the pattern of the front body 1 and the back body 2 of the knit shirt of the present invention in which the armholes are moved is shown in FIG. FIG. 2B shows a sleeve pattern in which the curve of the sleeve line is changed.

これらのパターンに基いてニット生地を裁断し、縫製して、ニットシャツを製作する。縫製する場合、袖は身頃に対して袖ぐり丸付けを行う。すなわち、前身頃1の肩線7と後身頃2の肩線8とを縫い合わせ、前身頃1の脇線9と後身頃2の脇線9とを縫い合わせる(図4の脇縫い目23となる)。一方、袖10は図1(b)の前袖11の端11aと後袖12の端12aを縫い合わせ(図4の袖縫い目22となる)、袖10を筒状とする。この袖の袖付け線14、15の頂点16(袖山の頂点、袖山印)と肩縫い目とを一致させて、前袖11は前袖ぐり3に、後袖12は後袖ぐり4に縫い合わせる(図4の袖付け縫い目21となる)。このようにして筒状の袖を本発明の身頃の袖ぐり3、4に縫着すると、袖縫い目22は袖ぐりの最下点5の位置に来る。   Based on these patterns, the knit fabric is cut and sewn to produce a knit shirt. When sewing, sleeves are rounded against the body. That is, the shoulder line 7 of the front body 1 and the shoulder line 8 of the back body 2 are sewn together, and the side line 9 of the front body 1 and the side line 9 of the back body 2 are sewn together (the side seam 23 in FIG. 4 is formed). On the other hand, as for the sleeve 10, the end 11a of the front sleeve 11 and the end 12a of the rear sleeve 12 shown in FIG. 1B are sewn together (the sleeve seam 22 shown in FIG. 4), and the sleeve 10 has a cylindrical shape. The top 16 of the sleeves 14 and 15 (the top of the sleeve, the top of the sleeve) is aligned with the shoulder seam, and the front sleeve 11 is sewn to the front arm 3 and the rear sleeve 12 is sewn to the back arm 4 ( This is the sleeve seam 21 in FIG. 4). In this way, when the cylindrical sleeve is sewn to the armholes 3 and 4 of the body of the present invention, the sleeve seam 22 comes to the position of the lowest point 5 of the armhole.

なお、Tシャツの場合は身頃と袖だけであるので、図2に示したパターンだけでよい。しかし、ポロシャツの場合は衿、前開きおよびポケットがあるが、これらは従来どおりに製作し、縫製すればよい。   In the case of a T-shirt, only the body and sleeves are used, so only the pattern shown in FIG. However, in the case of a polo shirt, there are a heel, a front opening, and a pocket. These may be manufactured and sewn as usual.

図3は縫製したニットシャツを着用した状態を上から見たものとして模式的に示したものであり、袖は片側のみ示した。図3(a)は従来のニットシャツを着用した状態であり、身頃1、2に対して袖10が真横に付いており、身体Mの両サイドに隙間が生じ、フィット性がない。フィット性を求めて小さ目なニットシャツを着用すると、図3(b)に示すように、矢印Nで示すように前側の肩先と後側の肩先が服で押圧され、窮屈である。   FIG. 3 schematically shows a state in which a sewn knit shirt is worn as viewed from above, and only one side of the sleeve is shown. FIG. 3A shows a state in which a conventional knit shirt is worn. The sleeve 10 is attached directly to the body parts 1 and 2, and a gap is formed on both sides of the body M, resulting in no fit. When a small knit shirt is worn for fitting, as shown in FIG. 3B, the front shoulder and the rear shoulder are pressed with clothes as shown by an arrow N, and the body is cramped.

図3(c)に示すように、本発明のニットシャツを着用した状態では、袖10が前方向に付いているので、腕の振り回しも行いやすく、また、身体Mにフィットしていても、窮屈でなく、着心地がよい。   As shown in FIG.3 (c), in the state which wore the knit shirt of this invention, since the sleeve 10 is attached to the front direction, it is easy to swing an arm, and even if it fits the body M, It is not cramped and comfortable to wear.

図4(a)は従来のニットシャツの袖を挙げた状態の側面図であり、袖付け縫い目21(身頃1、2の袖ぐりに沿って袖10を縫い付けた縫い目)上において袖縫い目22と脇縫い目23とが出会い、袖縫い目22と脇縫い目23とが一直線になっている。   FIG. 4A is a side view of the conventional knit shirt with the sleeves raised, and the sleeve seam 22 on the sleeve seam 21 (the seam in which the sleeve 10 is sewn along the sleeves 1 and 2). And the side seam 23 meet, and the sleeve seam 22 and the side seam 23 are in a straight line.

図4(b)は本発明のニットシャツの袖を挙げた状態の側面図であり、袖付け縫い目21上において袖縫い目22が脇縫い目23に対して前身頃1側に1.5cm以上ずれている。   FIG. 4B is a side view of the knit shirt of the present invention with the sleeves raised, and the sleeve seam 22 on the sleeve seam 21 is shifted by 1.5 cm or more to the front body 1 side with respect to the side seam 23. Yes.

以下に、本発明の実施例について説明する。   Examples of the present invention will be described below.

図5は本発明のニットシャツの実施例のパターンを作成する手順を示す平面図である。図5(a)に示した前身頃1および後身頃2のパターンはそれぞれ図2(a)に示したパターンと同じである。すなわち、図1に関して説明したように、前袖ぐりおよび後袖ぐりの寸法をそれぞれ変化させずに、前袖ぐり3と後袖ぐり3が出会う袖ぐり最下点5の位置を前方向に1.5cm以上移動し且つ袖ぐり最下点5の前後の袖ぐり部分を丸みの付いた湾曲したものとする。   FIG. 5 is a plan view showing the procedure for creating the pattern of the embodiment of the knit shirt of the present invention. The patterns of the front body 1 and the back body 2 shown in FIG. 5A are the same as the patterns shown in FIG. That is, as described with reference to FIG. 1, the position of the lowermost point 5 of the armhole where the front armhole 3 and the rear armhole 3 meet is set in the forward direction without changing the dimensions of the front and rear armholes. It is assumed that the armholes moved 5 cm or more and the armhole portions before and after the armhole lowermost point 5 are rounded and curved.

図5(a)に示した袖10のパターンは図2(b)に示したものと同じであり、前袖11の袖付け線14を後袖12の袖付け線15よりも窪ませたカーブとしたものである。   The pattern of the sleeve 10 shown in FIG. 5A is the same as that shown in FIG. 2B, and is a curve in which the sleeve line 14 of the front sleeve 11 is recessed from the sleeve line 15 of the rear sleeve 12. It is what.

次に、図5(b)に示すように、前身頃1の脇線9を移動させた袖ぐり最下点5の位置まで移動し、脇線9aとする。後身頃2の脇線9を前身頃1の脇線9の移動分と同寸法、後方向(背中心17の方向)に移動し、脇線9bとする。図5(b)で脇線9aと脇線9bとの間の部分18を網かけして示しており、この部分18を切り取る。一方、袖10は後袖12の端12aから、前身頃1の脇線9の移動分の倍の幅(すなわち、網かけした部分の幅)をとった箇所に後袖12の端を移動する(移動後の端を符号12bで示した)。図5(b)では元の端12aと新たな端12bとの間の部分10′を網かけして示しており、この部分10′を切り取る。   Next, as shown in FIG.5 (b), it moves to the position of the armhole lowermost point 5 which moved the side line 9 of the front body 1, and it is set as the side line 9a. The side line 9 of the back body 2 is moved in the same direction as the movement of the side line 9 of the front body 1 and moved rearward (in the direction of the back center 17) to be a side line 9b. In FIG. 5B, a portion 18 between the side lines 9a and 9b is shown by shading, and this portion 18 is cut off. On the other hand, the sleeve 10 moves the end of the back sleeve 12 from the end 12a of the back sleeve 12 to a location that has double the width of the side line 9 of the front body 1 (that is, the width of the shaded portion). (The end after movement is indicated by reference numeral 12b). In FIG. 5B, a portion 10 'between the original end 12a and the new end 12b is shown by shading, and this portion 10' is cut out.

図5(c)は、図5(b)で網かけした部分18、10′を切り取った後の、前身頃1、後身頃2および袖10のそれぞれの新しいパターンを示す。また、切り取られた後袖部分10′を示す。   FIG. 5C shows a new pattern for each of the front body 1, the back body 2, and the sleeve 10 after cutting off the shaded portions 18, 10 ′ in FIG. 5B. In addition, the rear sleeve portion 10 'cut out is shown.

図6(a)〜(d)は図5に示した身頃と組合せられるマチを作成する手順を示すものである。図6(a)は切り取った脇部分18と切り取った後袖部分10′とを示している。すなわち、脇部分18は前身頃1の移動後の脇線9aと後身頃2の移動後の脇線9bとの間の部分に相当する幅および長さを有し、後袖部分10′は袖10の切り取った部分に対応する幅および長さを有する。脇部分18の先端の後袖ぐり部分4aと後袖部分10′の袖付け線部分15aとが向い合うように配置し、そして図6(b)に示すように、脇部分18の後袖ぐり部分4aと後袖部分10′の袖付け線部分15aとを突き合わせる。この場合、前身頃1の脇線9aと同じ長さの脇部分18の脇線18aと後袖部分10′の端線12a(切り取る前の袖の端)とを突き合わせ、他方、後身頃2の脇線9bと同じ長さの脇部分18の脇線18bと後袖部分10′の端線12c(切り取った後の後袖12の端12bと対応する)とを突き合わせる。このように配置すると、後袖部分10′が前身頃側に傾斜状態となる。   FIGS. 6A to 6D show a procedure for creating a gusset that can be combined with the body shown in FIG. FIG. 6A shows the cut-off side portion 18 and the cut back sleeve portion 10 ′. That is, the side portion 18 has a width and a length corresponding to a portion between the side line 9a after the front body 1 is moved and the side line 9b after the back body 2 is moved, and the rear sleeve portion 10 'is a sleeve. It has a width and length corresponding to 10 cut portions. The rear armhole portion 4a at the front end of the side portion 18 and the sleeve attachment line portion 15a of the rear sleeve portion 10 'are arranged so as to face each other, and as shown in FIG. The portion 4a and the sleeve-attached line portion 15a of the rear sleeve portion 10 ′ are abutted. In this case, the side line 18a of the side part 18 having the same length as the side line 9a of the front body 1 and the end line 12a (the end of the sleeve before cutting) of the rear sleeve part 10 'are abutted against each other. The side line 18b of the side part 18 having the same length as the side line 9b and the end line 12c of the rear sleeve part 10 '(corresponding to the end 12b of the rear sleeve 12 after cutting) are abutted. With this arrangement, the rear sleeve portion 10 'is inclined toward the front body side.

次に、図6(c)に示すように、脇部分18の脇線18a、18bがそれぞれ、後袖部分10′の端線12a、12cに、角がなく滑らかに接続するようにカーブを描く。図6(d)には、このようにして作成されたマチ19のパターンを示す。   Next, as shown in FIG. 6 (c), curves are drawn so that the side lines 18a and 18b of the side part 18 are smoothly connected to the end lines 12a and 12c of the rear sleeve part 10 'without corners. . FIG. 6D shows a gusset 19 pattern created in this way.

図7(a)は本発明のニットシャツの実施例に使用する前身頃1、後身頃2、袖10およびマチ19のパターンを示し、前身頃1、後身頃2、袖10は図5(c)に示したものである。マチ19は図6(d)に示したものである。   FIG. 7A shows the patterns of the front body 1, the back body 2, the sleeve 10 and the gusset 19 used in the embodiment of the knit shirt of the present invention. The front body 1, the back body 2, and the sleeve 10 are shown in FIG. ). The gusset 19 is shown in FIG.

図7(b)は前身頃1、後身頃2およびマチ19の組合せ関係を示すものであり、マチ19を前身頃1と後身頃2の間に挟み込んだ状態であり、マチ19の先端部分(後袖部分10′に対応する部分)は前身頃側に傾斜している。   FIG. 7B shows the combination of the front body 1, the back body 2, and the gusset 19. The gusset 19 is sandwiched between the front body 1 and the back body 2, and the tip of the gusset 19 ( The portion corresponding to the rear sleeve portion 10 'is inclined toward the front body side.

図7(a)に示すパターンに基いてニット生地を裁断して、縫製する。この場合、先ず、前身頃1の肩線7と後身頃2の肩線8とを縫い合わせる。次に、袖10の袖付け線14、15の頂点16と肩縫い目とを一致させて、前袖11は前袖ぐり3に、後袖12は後袖ぐり4に縫い合わせる(図8の袖付け縫い目21となる)。この状態では、前身頃1と後身頃2の脇が開いており、前袖11の端11aは前身頃1の脇線9aと連続しており、後袖12の端12bは後身頃2の脇線9bと連続しており、前袖11と後袖12の脇が開いている(図8においてマチ19がない状態)。   Based on the pattern shown in FIG. 7A, the knit fabric is cut and sewn. In this case, first, the shoulder line 7 of the front body 1 and the shoulder line 8 of the back body 2 are sewn together. Next, the apex 16 of the sleeves 14 and 15 of the sleeve 10 is aligned with the shoulder seam, and the front sleeve 11 is sewn to the front armhole 3 and the rear sleeve 12 is sewn to the rear armhole 4 (see FIG. 8). Seams 21). In this state, the sides of the front body 1 and the back body 2 are open, the end 11a of the front sleeve 11 is continuous with the side line 9a of the front body 1, and the end 12b of the back sleeve 12 is the side of the back body 2. It is continuous with the line 9b, and the sides of the front sleeve 11 and the rear sleeve 12 are open (the state where there is no gusset 19 in FIG. 8).

マチ19の脇線18aを前身頃1の脇線9aに縫い合わせ(図8の脇縫い目23aである)、この縫い合わせに連続して、マチ19の脇線18aに滑らかに続く上端部分の線12aと前袖11の端11aとを縫い合わせる(図8の袖縫い目22aである)。   The side line 18a of the gusset 19 is sewn to the side line 9a of the front body 1 (the side seam 23a in FIG. 8), and the line 12a at the upper end portion that continues smoothly to the side line 18a of the gusset 19 The end 11a of the front sleeve 11 is sewn together (the sleeve seam 22a in FIG. 8).

同様に、マチ19の脇線18bを後身頃2の脇線9bに縫い合わせ(図8の脇縫い目23bである)、この縫い合わせに連続して、マチ19の脇線18bに滑らかに続く上端部分の線12cと後袖12の端12bとを縫い合わせる(図8の袖縫い目22bである)。   Similarly, the side line 18b of the gusset 19 is sewn to the side line 9b of the back body 2 (the side seam 23b in FIG. 8), and the upper end portion that continues smoothly to the side line 18b of the gusset 19 continues from this sewing. The line 12c and the end 12b of the back sleeve 12 are stitched together (the sleeve seam 22b in FIG. 8).

このように縫製したニットシャツにおいては、前袖11とマチ布19とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目22aが前身頃1とマチ布19とを縫い合わせた脇縫い目23aに連続しており、いわゆる脇線続き縫いで縫製されている。前身頃1の脇縫い目23aの上端は袖ぐり3の最下点5である。前袖11とマチ布19とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目22aと前身頃1の脇縫い目23aの上端におけるマチ布19の幅の中心との間の寸法が1.5cm以上である。すなわち、マチ布19の幅の中心は図5(a)、(b)における脇線9に相当するものであり、図5(a)について説明したように袖ぐり3の最下点5は脇線9に対して前方向に1.5cm以上ずらされているので、製品においても同様である。   In the knit shirt sewn in this manner, a sleeve seam 22a obtained by sewing the front sleeve 11 and the gusset cloth 19 is continuous with the side seam 23a obtained by sewing the front body 1 and the gusset cloth 19, so-called side line continuous stitching. It is sewn with. The upper end of the side seam 23 a of the front body 1 is the lowest point 5 of the armhole 3. The dimension between the sleeve seam 22a obtained by stitching the front sleeve 11 and the gusset cloth 19 and the center of the width of the gusset cloth 19 at the upper end of the side seam 23a of the front body 1 is 1.5 cm or more. That is, the center of the width of the gusset cloth 19 corresponds to the side line 9 in FIGS. 5A and 5B, and the lowest point 5 of the armhole 3 is the side as described with reference to FIG. The same applies to the product because it is shifted forward by 1.5 cm or more with respect to the line 9.

この実施例において、マチ布19はその幅方向よりも長さ方向に伸び易いものを使用することが好ましい。このように長さ方向に伸び易く、脇から袖まで連続しているので、腕を振り回し易い。   In this embodiment, it is preferable to use a gusset 19 that is easier to extend in the length direction than in the width direction. Thus, it is easy to extend in the length direction, and since it is continuous from the side to the sleeve, it is easy to swing the arm.

また、この実施例において、Tシャツの場合は身頃と袖だけであるので、図7(a)に示したパターンだけでよい。また、ポロシャツの場合は衿、前開きおよびポケットがあるが、これらは従来どおりに製作し、縫製すればよい。
Further, in this embodiment, since in the case of T-shirt is only body and sleeves, it is only the pattern shown in Figure 7 (a). In the case of a polo shirt, there are a heel, a front opening, and a pocket. These may be manufactured and sewn as usual.

1 前身頃
2 後身頃
3 前袖ぐり
4 後袖ぐり
5 袖ぐり最下点
10 袖
10′ 切り取った後袖部分
11 前袖
12 後袖
14 前袖11の袖付け線
15 後袖12の袖付け線
19 マチ
21 袖付け縫い目
22 袖縫い目
23 脇縫い目
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Front body 2 Back body 3 Front sleeve 4 Back sleeve 5 5 Bottom point 10 Sleeve 10 'Cut off rear sleeve part 11 Front sleeve 12 Rear sleeve 14 Sleeve 15 of front sleeve 11 Sleeve 15 of rear sleeve 12 Line 19 Machi 21 Sleeve seam 22 Sleeve seam 23 Side seam

Claims (2)

カット・アンド・ソーンにより製造されるニットシャツであって、前身頃および後身頃のパターンにおいて前袖ぐりおよび後袖ぐりの寸法をそれぞれ変化させずに、前袖ぐりと後袖ぐりが出会う袖ぐり最下点の位置を前方向に1.5cm以上移動し且つ前記袖ぐり最下点の前後の袖ぐり部分を丸みの付いた湾曲したものとし、前身頃の脇線を前記移動した袖ぐり最下点の位置まで移動し、後身頃の脇線を前身頃の脇線の移動分と同寸法、後方向に移動し、前記移動後の脇線を有するものを前身頃および後身頃のパターンとし、袖のパターンにおいて前袖の袖付け線を後袖の袖付け線よりも窪ませたカーブとし且つ後袖の端から前記前身頃の脇線の移動分の倍の幅の部分を切り取ったものを袖のパターンとし、前記前身頃の移動後の脇線と後身頃の移動後の脇線との間の部分に相当する幅および長さを有するものの先端に、前記袖の切り取った部分に対応する幅および長さを有するものを前身頃側に傾斜するように配置して、滑らかなカーブで接続してマチのパターンとし、これらのパターンに基いてニット生地を裁断して、縫製して製作した、前袖とマチ布とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目が前身頃とマチ布とを縫い合わせた脇縫い目に連続しており、前身頃の脇縫い目の上端において、前袖とマチ布とを縫い合わせた袖縫い目と前身頃の脇縫い目の上端におけるマチ布の幅の中心との間の寸法が1.5cm以上であることを特徴とするカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツ。
A knit shirt manufactured by Cut and Thorn, where the front and back armholes meet without changing the front and back armhole dimensions in the front and back body patterns. Move the point forward 1.5 cm or more and make the armhole part before and after the lower end of the armhole rounded and curved, and move the armpit line to the lower end of the armhole. Move to the position of the back body, move the side line of the back body to the same size as the movement of the side line of the front body, move in the rear direction, and have the side line after the movement as the pattern of the front body and the back body, In the pattern, the sleeve is formed by cutting the front sleeve cuffing line from the rear sleeve cuffing line and cutting the width of the front sleeve from the end of the back sleeve twice as much as the side line movement. The side line and the back after the movement of the front body The one having a width and length corresponding to the portion between the side line after the movement of the sleeve is arranged so that the one having the width and length corresponding to the cut portion of the sleeve is inclined to the front body side. Then, connecting with a smooth curve to form a gusset pattern, cutting the knit fabric based on these patterns and sewing, the sleeve seam stitched together with the front sleeve and gusset cloth is the front body and gusset It is continuous with the side seam stitched with the cloth, and at the upper end of the side seam of the front body, the sleeve seam stitched with the front sleeve and gusseted cloth and the center of the width of the gusseted cloth at the upper end of the side seam of the front body Cut-and-thorn knitted shirt characterized in that the dimension between them is 1.5 cm or more.
前記マチ布はその幅方向よりも長さ方向に伸び易いものであることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のカット・アンド・ソーンによるニットシャツ   The knit shirt according to claim 1, wherein the gusseted cloth is easier to extend in the length direction than in the width direction.
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JP2011179148A (en) * 2010-03-02 2011-09-15 Gunze Ltd Garment with sleeve
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JP5161392B1 (en) * 2012-09-03 2013-03-13 利仁 曽根 clothing
JP5925284B1 (en) * 2014-12-12 2016-05-25 エム アンド ティー ファミリー カンパニー リミテッド clothes
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