CN114304793B - Three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armhole - Google Patents
Three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armhole Download PDFInfo
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- CN114304793B CN114304793B CN202111600580.4A CN202111600580A CN114304793B CN 114304793 B CN114304793 B CN 114304793B CN 202111600580 A CN202111600580 A CN 202111600580A CN 114304793 B CN114304793 B CN 114304793B
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of shirt armholes, in particular to a three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for a shirt armhole, which comprises the following steps: s1, adopting four alignment blades of a blade A, a blade B, a blade C and a blade D; sleeve piece return and pull out: returning the arc line corresponding to the position of the knife edge A inwards in the direction of approaching the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline, and pushing the arc line of the position of the knife edge B outwards in the direction of separating from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline; s2, pulling out the front garment piece; s3, pulling back the rear clothes piece. According to the invention, armhole depth and Long Menkuan are subjected to model structural design according to the optimal proportion of a human body, mannequin three-dimensional cutting is performed, the front and back radians of the human body are perfectly fitted, the fit is loose, the shape is comfortable, and the shape of the armhole is kept for a long time; the armhole technology adopts 4 alignment knife edges, so that the front, back, left and right of the upper sleeve are ensured to be completely symmetrical and not deformed; the targeted return-pull process reduces the front sleeve amount, keeps the optimal state activity of the front sleeve, increases the back sleeve activity, accords with the activity rule of human arms, and is comfortable and attractive to wear as a whole.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of shirt armholes, in particular to a three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for a shirt armhole.
Background
The shirt is a key single product for both inner and outer dressing of men's wear. It does not require much attention to the external quality as the suit is required to be worn snugly, while a good shirt is also provided with the internal quality. That is, the fabric of the shirt is more comfortable and breathable, and the size is more fit.
The armhole and the armhole have very close matching relation, in principle, the armhole arc length and the armhole arc length should be consistent in quantity, and the armhole height should be consistent with the armhole height for the body-attached armhole shape. However, in the traditional shirt armhole process, the front sleeve and the rear sleeve are lack of three-dimensional cutting, the front armhole and the rear sleeve are full and have poor shape, the shape of the armhole is not durable enough, the front sleeve, the rear sleeve and the front and rear garment pieces are not subjected to targeted drawing treatment, the optimal activity of the front sleeve is not maintained, the wearing comfort is poor, and the problems of smoothness and unattractive appearance of non-fitting clothes are generally existed.
Disclosure of Invention
(one) solving the technical problems
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for a shirt armhole, which solves the problems that the front and rear sleeves are short of three-dimensional cutting, the front and rear armholes are full and have poor shape and the shape of the armhole is not durable enough, the front and rear sleeves and front and rear clothes pieces are not subjected to targeted returning-to-drawing treatment, the optimal activity of the front sleeves is not maintained, the wearing comfort is poor, and the problem that the wearing is not smooth and the appearance is not attractive is generally existed.
(II) technical scheme
The invention adopts the following technical scheme for realizing the purposes:
a three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armholes is provided, wherein armholes are deep and Long Menkuan, the type structure design is carried out according to the optimal proportion of human bodies, and the three-dimensional cutting of mannequins is carried out, and the process comprises the following steps:
s1, drawing alignment points: four alignment knife edges corresponding to the front and rear garment pieces are adopted on the sleeve curves of the sleeve pieces, wherein the knife edges A and B correspond to front conforming points and rear conforming points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively, and the knife edges C and D correspond to shoulder end points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively;
sleeve piece return and pull out: putting the sleeve sheets into the sleeve, spraying a small amount of clean water at the position corresponding to the knife edge A of the sleeve mountain curve, putting the arc line corresponding to the knife edge A inwards in the direction close to the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve central line so as to reduce the activity of the front sleeve and enable the front sleeve to accord with the activity rule of the human arm; spraying a small amount of clear water to the position of the sleeve mountain curve corresponding to the knife edge B, pushing the arc line of the knife edge B outwards away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve center line so as to increase the activity of the rear sleeve and keep the activity of the rear sleeve in the optimal state;
s2, pulling out the front piece: the shoulder parts of the garment pieces are close to the body, slightly spraying clear water, wiping out 0.6cm from the transverse opening collar to the outer shoulder before ironing, slightly returning the oblique neckline threads, pushing the transverse threads of the shoulder heads downwards to enable shoulder seams to be concave, enabling the fat shoulder seams to be pushed to the chest, enabling the transverse threads of the outer shoulder points to be upturned, and enabling the shoulder seams to generate return force;
s3, back piece plucking: the side seams of the clothes pieces are close to the body, the clothes pieces are slightly sprayed with clear water, the iron is started from the shoulder, the shoulder blade is pulled out, the waist joint yarn lock is pulled out by the left hand, the waist joint is pulled out, and when the waist joint is pulled out, the armhole and the 10cm lower portion of the armhole are returned to the ironing state, so that the back armhole is poked.
Further, in the step S1, the front sleeve seam is flattened and ironed before wanted stitching, so that the front sleeve seam is pulled out as much as possible.
In step S1, in order to maintain the armhole in the full three-dimensional shape after the armhole is pulled out, the armhole is required to be shaped by drawing, the drawing is adhered to the position 0.3cm away from the edge in the warp direction, the drawing width is 1.2-1.5 cm, and the drawing at the arc line is cut.
Further, in the step S1, the front fitting point and the rear fitting point are respectively corresponding to the positions from the armpit point to the shoulder point of the front and rear garment pieces, which are 3cm downward.
Further, in the step S1, the arc line at the position of the knife edge a is an inner arc, when the cutting edge is pulled back, the angle of the arc line at the position of the knife edge a near the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline is 0.5-0.7 cm, and the angle of the arc line (outer arc) corresponding to the position of the knife edge C on the front sleeve mountain curve near the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline is smaller than the angle of the knife edge a; the arc line at the position of the knife edge B is an inner arc, the position of the knife edge B on the arc line section is extrapolated by 0.6-0.8 cm in the direction away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline during returning and pulling, and the pushing amount of the arc line (outer arc) corresponding to the position of the knife edge D on the rear sleeve mountain curve in the direction away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline is smaller than the pushing amount of the position of the knife edge B.
(III) beneficial effects
Compared with the prior art, the invention provides a three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armholes, which has the following beneficial effects:
1. according to the invention, the armhole depth and Long Menkuan are subjected to model structural design according to the optimal proportion of a human body, the human body is subjected to stereoscopic cutting, the front and back radians of the human body are perfectly fitted, the shape of the armhole is kept for a long time, and the armhole is loose and fit.
2. According to the invention, 4 alignment knife edges are adopted in the armhole process, so that the front and rear parts of the upper sleeve are ensured to be completely symmetrical and not deformed, the front and rear parts of the sleeve are ensured to be full and have attractive appearance by adopting the draft process.
3. The invention carries out targeted pulling treatment on the front sleeve, the rear sleeve and the front and rear clothing pieces, reduces the front sleeve amount, keeps the optimal state activity of the front sleeve, increases the activity of the rear sleeve, accords with the activity rule of human arms, and is comfortable and easy to wear.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the positions of the sleeve panels and the front and rear panels corresponding to the aligned knife edges of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made clearly and completely with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which it is apparent that the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
Examples
As shown in fig. 1, the three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for a shirt armhole provided by an embodiment of the invention, wherein armhole depths and Long Menkuan are subjected to type structure design according to the optimal proportion of a human body, and the three-dimensional cutting of a mannequin is performed, and the process comprises the following steps:
s1, drawing alignment points: four alignment knife edges corresponding to the front and rear garment pieces are adopted on the sleeve curves of the sleeve pieces, wherein the knife edges A and B correspond to front conforming points and rear conforming points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively, and the knife edges C and D correspond to shoulder end points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively;
sleeve piece return and pull out: putting the sleeve sheets into the sleeve, spraying a small amount of clean water at the position corresponding to the knife edge A of the sleeve mountain curve, putting the arc line corresponding to the knife edge A inwards in the direction close to the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve central line so as to reduce the activity of the front sleeve and enable the front sleeve to accord with the activity rule of the human arm; spraying a small amount of clear water to the position of the sleeve mountain curve corresponding to the knife edge B, pushing the arc line of the knife edge B outwards away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve center line so as to increase the activity of the rear sleeve and keep the activity of the rear sleeve in the optimal state;
s2, pulling out the front piece: the shoulder parts of the garment pieces are close to the body, slightly spraying clear water, wiping out 0.6cm from the transverse opening collar to the outer shoulder before ironing, slightly returning the oblique neckline threads, pushing the transverse threads of the shoulder heads downwards to enable shoulder seams to be concave, enabling the fat shoulder seams to be pushed to the chest, enabling the transverse threads of the outer shoulder points to be upturned, and enabling the shoulder seams to generate return force;
s3, back piece plucking: the side seams of the clothes pieces are close to the body, the clothes pieces are slightly sprayed with clear water, the iron is started from the shoulder, the shoulder blade is pulled out, the waist joint yarn lock is pulled out by the left hand, the waist joint is pulled out, and when the waist joint is pulled out, the armhole and the 10cm lower portion of the armhole are returned to the ironing state, so that the back armhole is poked.
In some embodiments, in step S1, the front sleeve seam is flattened and ironed before the wanted stitching, so that the front sleeve seam is pulled out as much as possible, the wanted stitching of the rear sleeve seam is required to be stopped at a position of 2cm above the cuff fold, the stitching of the stitching part in the sleeve clamp is reversed to the large sleeve piece, and a 10cm non-stitching position is reserved at the left front sleeve seam.
In some embodiments, in step S1, in order to keep the armhole in the full three-dimensional shape after the armhole is pulled out, the armhole is required to be shaped by pulling the pulling strip, the pulling strip is adhered to the position 0.3cm away from the edge in the warp direction, the pulling strip is 1.2-1.5 cm wide, and the pulling strip at the arc line is cut; requirement of stay bar fixation for ironing: the fabric must be cooled after ironing and pulling, the fabric structure is tighter, and the two pieces of fabric must be subjected to 2-3 times of ironing and pulling, and the left and right pieces of fabric are symmetrically put flat and then the yarn locks are straight and flat.
In some embodiments, in step S1, the front and rear fitting points are located 3cm down from the midpoint between the armpit point to the shoulder point of the front and rear panels, respectively.
In some embodiments, in step S1, the arc line at the position of the knife edge a is an inner arc, when the cutting edge is pulled back, the angle of the arc line at the position of the knife edge a near the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline is 0.5-0.7 cm, and the angle of the arc line (outer arc) corresponding to the position of the knife edge C on the front sleeve mountain curve near the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline is less than the angle of the knife edge a; the arc line at the position of the knife edge B is an inner arc, the position of the knife edge B on the arc line section is extrapolated by 0.6-0.8 cm in the direction away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline during returning and pulling, and the pushing amount of the arc line (outer arc) corresponding to the position of the knife edge D on the rear sleeve mountain curve in the direction away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve midline is smaller than the pushing amount of the position of the knife edge B.
In the process adopted by the invention, the armhole depth and Long Menkuan are subjected to model structural design according to the optimal proportion of a human body, the human body is subjected to stereoscopic cutting, the front and back radians of the human body are perfectly fitted, the loose quantity is fit, the shape of the armhole is kept permanently, 4 alignment knife edges are adopted in the armhole process, the front and back of the upper sleeve are ensured to be completely symmetrical and not deformed, the front and back of the sleeve are ensured to be full, and the comfortable fit is ensured to be worn fully by the front and back armholes by adopting a draft process; the front sleeve, the rear sleeve and the front and rear garment pieces are subjected to targeted pulling treatment, so that the front sleeve amount is reduced, the optimal activity of the front sleeve is kept, the activity of the rear sleeve is increased, the activity rule of human arms is met, and the garment is comfortable and easy to wear.
Finally, it should be noted that: the foregoing description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited thereto, but it is to be understood that modifications and equivalents of some of the technical features described in the foregoing embodiments may be made by those skilled in the art, although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. The utility model provides a shirt armhole three-dimensional tailors and puts back and pulls out type structural craft, armhole dark, long Menkuan carries out the type structural design according to human optimum proportion, carries out man-table three-dimensional tailors, its characterized in that: the process comprises the following steps:
s1, drawing alignment points: four alignment knife edges corresponding to the front and rear garment pieces are adopted on the sleeve curves of the sleeve pieces, wherein the knife edges A and B correspond to front conforming points and rear conforming points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively, and the knife edges C and D correspond to shoulder end points on the front and rear garment pieces respectively;
sleeve piece return and pull out: putting the sleeve sheets into the sleeve, spraying a small amount of clean water at the position corresponding to the knife edge A of the sleeve mountain curve, putting the arc line corresponding to the knife edge A inwards in the direction close to the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve central line so as to reduce the activity of the front sleeve and enable the front sleeve to accord with the activity rule of the human arm; spraying a small amount of clear water to the position of the sleeve mountain curve corresponding to the knife edge B, pushing the arc line of the knife edge B outwards away from the intersection point of the mountain falling line and the sleeve center line so as to increase the activity of the rear sleeve and keep the activity of the rear sleeve in the optimal state;
s2, pulling out the front piece: the shoulder parts of the garment pieces are close to the body, slightly spraying clear water, wiping out 0.6cm from the transverse opening collar to the outer shoulder before ironing, slightly returning the oblique neckline threads, pushing the transverse threads of the shoulder heads downwards to enable shoulder seams to be concave, enabling the fat shoulder seams to be pushed to the chest, enabling the transverse threads of the outer shoulder points to be upturned, and enabling the shoulder seams to generate return force;
s3, back piece plucking: the side seams of the garment pieces are close to the body, water is slightly sprayed, an iron starts from the shoulder, the shoulder blade is pulled out, a waist joint yarn lock is pulled out by the left hand, the waist joint is pulled out, and the armhole and the 10cm below the armhole are returned to be scalded when the waist joint is pulled out, so that the back armhole is poked;
in the step S1, the front sleeve seam is flatly put and ironed before wanted stitching, so that the front sleeve seam is pulled out; after the stitching, stitching the sleeve seam to the position of 2cm above the cuff fold, and reversing the stitching in the stitching sleeve clamp to the large sleeve piece, wherein the left front sleeve seam is left to be 10cm without stitching;
in the step S1, the stretching shaping is carried out on the armhole, the stretching is that the warp direction is stuck at the position 0.3cm away from the edge, the stretching width is 1.2-1.5 cm, and the stretching at the arc line is cut;
in the step S1, the front coincidence point and the rear coincidence point are respectively corresponding to the position of 3cm downwards from the midpoint between the armpit point and the shoulder end point of the front and rear garment pieces;
in the step S1, the arc line at the position of the knife edge A is an inner arc, when the cutting edge A on the arc line is reset, the arc line at the position close to the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline is reset to 0.5-0.7 cm inwards, and the reset of the arc line at the position of the outer arc corresponding to the knife edge C on the front sleeve mountain curve to the position close to the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline is smaller than the reset of the position of the knife edge A; the arc line at the position of the knife edge B is an inner arc, the position of the knife edge B on the arc line is pushed outwards by 0.6-0.8 cm in the direction away from the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline during returning and pulling, and the pushing amount of the outer arc line corresponding to the position of the knife edge D on the rear sleeve mountain curve in the direction away from the intersection point of the falling line and the sleeve midline is smaller than the pushing amount of the position of the knife edge B;
the armhole technology adopts 4 contraposition knife edges, ensures that the upper sleeve is completely symmetrical and not deformed in the front-back direction and the left-right direction, and ensures that the front armhole and the rear armhole are full and comfortable to wear; the front sleeve, the rear sleeve and the front and rear garment pieces are subjected to targeted pulling treatment, so that the front sleeve amount is reduced, the optimal activity of the front sleeve is kept, the activity of the rear sleeve is increased, the activity rule of human arms is met, and the garment is comfortable and easy to wear.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202111600580.4A CN114304793B (en) | 2021-12-24 | 2021-12-24 | Three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armhole |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202111600580.4A CN114304793B (en) | 2021-12-24 | 2021-12-24 | Three-dimensional cutting and returning-to-drawing type structure process for shirt armhole |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN114304793A CN114304793A (en) | 2022-04-12 |
| CN114304793B true CN114304793B (en) | 2023-12-01 |
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Citations (7)
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| JP2010255137A (en) * | 2009-04-24 | 2010-11-11 | Onward Holdings Co Ltd | Knit shirt by Cut and Thorn |
| JP2011179148A (en) * | 2010-03-02 | 2011-09-15 | Gunze Ltd | Garment with sleeve |
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| CN203121103U (en) * | 2013-01-11 | 2013-08-14 | 北京威克多制衣中心 | Suit upper |
| CN108175140A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-06-19 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | A kind of processing method of Western-style clothes back |
| CN109259370A (en) * | 2018-11-09 | 2019-01-25 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Rotation armhole for student's uniform is with sleeve method and rotation armhole with sleeve clothes structure |
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2021
- 2021-12-24 CN CN202111600580.4A patent/CN114304793B/en active Active
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2010255137A (en) * | 2009-04-24 | 2010-11-11 | Onward Holdings Co Ltd | Knit shirt by Cut and Thorn |
| JP2011179148A (en) * | 2010-03-02 | 2011-09-15 | Gunze Ltd | Garment with sleeve |
| JP2012144823A (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2012-08-02 | Yasuko Miyazato | Garment with sleeve, and paper pattern for the same |
| CN102266139A (en) * | 2011-07-22 | 2011-12-07 | 广东柏堡龙股份有限公司 | Method for cutting sleeve of western style suit |
| CN203121103U (en) * | 2013-01-11 | 2013-08-14 | 北京威克多制衣中心 | Suit upper |
| CN108175140A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-06-19 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | A kind of processing method of Western-style clothes back |
| CN109259370A (en) * | 2018-11-09 | 2019-01-25 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Rotation armhole for student's uniform is with sleeve method and rotation armhole with sleeve clothes structure |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
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| 蔡志刚.《时尚西服结构设计与缝制工艺》.吉林美术出版社,2019,第202-203页. * |
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