CN108813775A - A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method - Google Patents

A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108813775A
CN108813775A CN201810679012.XA CN201810679012A CN108813775A CN 108813775 A CN108813775 A CN 108813775A CN 201810679012 A CN201810679012 A CN 201810679012A CN 108813775 A CN108813775 A CN 108813775A
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China
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line
point
collar
western
line segment
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CN201810679012.XA
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CN108813775B (en
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左洪芬
宋向前
隋玉波
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Yantai Nanshan University
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Yantai Nanshan University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outerwear In General, And Traditional Japanese Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention discloses a kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method, after determining roll line line, the parallel lines apart from roll line line 1cm are being drawn far from clothing body direction, it is a right-angle side of right angled triangle, with the right angled triangle drawing board of another right-angle side of a height of right angled triangle of Collar stand+lapel using later neck arc length, arc length is led to be overlapped after making with the intersection point of bevel edge with the wide point of front neck, on the straight line that it is 1cm with roll line line parallel distance that another point of bevel edge, which is dropped down onto, the size of turndown collar lodging amount is determined with this, so that it is determined that the position of rear collar structure line.Compared with prior art, drafting method of the present invention is accurately reasonable, and mapping step is simple and convenient and easy to study, and drawing efficiency is high, and after making ready-made clothes, neck portion comfort and aesthetics increase, while enterprises production efficiency can be improved, and are conducive to the succession and popularization of plate-making technology.

Description

A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing, specifically a kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method.
Background technique
During Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing, the size of lapel lodging amount decides that Western-style clothes neck is bonded journey with neck The docile degree of degree and neck collar extension and back coat, that is, affect the snugness of fit of neck and the aesthetics of Western-style clothes neck.
In current majority universities and colleges and enterprise when carrying out turndown collar structure drawing, lodging amount usually takes definite value, and range is in 2- Between 3.5cm, specific definite value will according to refute a height, rear neck be high and size, the suit collar front neck of Collar stand are wide size, The factors such as fabric property are adjusted.Production sample clothing is needed to examine whether turndown collar drawing size designs rationally after the completion of template, If improper carry out structure drawing again again, remake sample clothing to examine, until Western-style clothes lead simultaneously have snugness of fit with Aesthetics, the structure drawing of turndown collar just calculate qualification, this process takes time and effort influence enterprises production efficiency;In addition traditional turndown collar It is necessary to have the technical staff of many years plate-making experience to complete for the memory of mapping step complicated difficult, is difficult to for beginner Its mapping step and rule are grasped, the application and popularization of knowledge are unfavorable for.For the enterprise for pursuing productivity effect and efficiency, Determine that a kind of accurately turndown collar drafting method is particularly important;For Clothing Specialty universities and colleges, teach a kind of simple and convenient and easy to study Turndown collar drafting method is conducive to the application and popularization of plate-making technology.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention overcome the deficiencies in the prior art discloses a kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method, needs first Defining Collar stand is a, a height of b of lapel, then the rear neck a length of k of camber line is carried out in accordance with the following steps:
1. being respectively that two right-angle sides draw right angled triangle with length a+b, k, where right-angled apices label B, k length Sharp-angled apex mark S, sharp-angled apex where a+b length marks A, and it is spare as triangle template to cut the lower triangle;
2. extending 0.7a to N point from the wide point S of front neck along preceding shoulder line in clothes structure figure, connection N and refutes point M and determines roll line line, Make the parallel lines M ' N ' that one is 1cm with MN distance;
3. the vertex S of the triangle template of step 1. is overlapped with S point in step 2. clothes structure figure, it is left that B point is maintained at S point Side rotates the triangle template until A point thereon drops down on M ' N ' line, then A, B two o'clock position determine, i.e., after lead midline position It determines;
4. according to style require with a, b size, rationally design Serial Port Line angle and size, split head is wide, the dead-centre position D that attaches collar, on It leads mouth dimension D E, Serial Port Line and leads lower oral sex point C;
5. smoother connection neck collar extension AE, leading lower mouth BC, straight line connects AB, DE, CD to get Western-style clothes turndown collar top collar structure chart.
6. A, inwardly translation forms A' point, B' point to B two o'clock, so that line segment AB ∥ line segment A'B', line segment AB ⊥ line segment AA', line segment AB ⊥ line segment BB', line segment AB are 0.6cm at a distance from line segment A'B', smoother connection neck collar extension A'E, lead lower mouth B' C, straight line connect A'B', DE, CD to get Western-style clothes turndown collar bottom collar structure chart.
Compared with prior art, drafting method of the present invention is accurately reasonable, and mapping step is simple and convenient and easy to study, and drawing efficiency is high, system After making ready-made clothes, neck portion comfort and aesthetics increase, while enterprises production efficiency can be improved, and are conducive to plate-making technology Succession and popularization.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the structural schematic diagram of triangle template of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is Western-style clothes turndown collar top collar structural schematic diagram of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is Western-style clothes turndown collar bottom collar structural schematic diagram.
Specific embodiment
Referring to Fig. 1-3, drawing scale uses 1:1, brown paper plate-making, unit cm.Definition Collar stand is a, and lapel is a height of B, it is rear to lead a length of k of camber line, it comprises the following steps:
1. being respectively that two right-angle sides draw right angled triangle with length a+b, k, where right-angled apices label B, k length Sharp-angled apex mark S, sharp-angled apex where a+b length marks A, and it is spare as triangle template to cut the lower triangle;
2. extending 0.7a to N point from the wide point S of front neck along preceding shoulder line in clothes structure figure, connection N and refutes point M and determines roll line line, Make the parallel lines M ' N ' that one is 1cm with MN distance;
3. the vertex S of the triangle template of step 1. is overlapped with S point in step 2. clothes structure figure, it is left that B point is maintained at S point Side rotates the triangle template until A point thereon drops down on M ' N ' line, then A, B two o'clock position determine, i.e., after lead midline position It determines;
4. according to style require with a, b size, rationally design Serial Port Line angle and size, split head is wide, the dead-centre position D that attaches collar, on It leads mouth dimension D E, Serial Port Line and leads lower oral sex point C;
5. smoother connection neck collar extension AE, leading lower mouth BC, straight line connects AB, DE, CD to get Western-style clothes turndown collar top collar structure chart.
6. A, inwardly translation forms A' point, B' point to B two o'clock, so that line segment AB ∥ line segment A'B', line segment AB ⊥ line segment AA', line segment AB ⊥ line segment BB', line segment AB are 0.6cm at a distance from line segment A'B', smoother connection neck collar extension A'E, lead lower mouth B' C, straight line connect A'B', DE, CD to get Western-style clothes turndown collar bottom collar structure chart.
It is examined by up to 100 clothing plate makings, the western clothes prepared by the method for the invention, happiness of the version moldeed depth by consumer Love.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method, definition Collar stand is a, a height of b of lapel, the rear neck a length of k of camber line, feature It is:It comprises the following steps:
1. being respectively that two right-angle sides draw right angled triangle with length a+b, k, where right-angled apices label B, k length Sharp-angled apex mark S, sharp-angled apex where a+b length marks A, and it is spare as triangle template to cut the lower triangle;
2. extending 0.7a to N point from the wide point S of front neck along preceding shoulder line in clothes structure figure, connection N and refutes point M and determines roll line line, Make the parallel lines M ' N ' that one is 1cm with MN distance;
3. the vertex S of the triangle template of step 1. is overlapped with S point in step 2. clothes structure figure, it is left that B point is maintained at S point Side rotates the triangle template until A point thereon drops down on M ' N ' line, then A, B two o'clock position determine, i.e., after lead midline position It determines;
4. according to style require with a, b size, rationally design Serial Port Line angle and size, split head is wide, the dead-centre position D that attaches collar, on It leads mouth dimension D E, Serial Port Line and leads lower oral sex point C;
5. smoother connection neck collar extension AE, leading lower mouth BC, straight line connects AB, DE, CD to get Western-style clothes turndown collar top collar structure chart;
6. A, inwardly translation forms A' point, B' point to B two o'clock, so that line segment AB ∥ line segment A'B', line segment AB ⊥ line segment AA', line Section AB ⊥ line segment BB', line segment AB are 0.6cm at a distance from line segment A'B', smoother connection neck collar extension A'E, lead lower mouth B'C, straight line A'B', DE, CD are connected to get Western-style clothes turndown collar bottom collar structure chart.
CN201810679012.XA 2018-06-27 2018-06-27 Drawing method for lapel structure of suit Active CN108813775B (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108576994A (en) * 2018-04-19 2018-09-28 浙江海明实业有限公司 A kind of preparation method of collar
CN109497644A (en) * 2018-11-29 2019-03-22 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar
CN110179193A (en) * 2019-05-31 2019-08-30 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 The method for platemaking of single piece type turndown collar
CN110477465A (en) * 2019-08-07 2019-11-22 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 A kind of probe left front collar is tailored and stitch the sole to the upper tailor's process
CN110652059A (en) * 2019-09-23 2020-01-07 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 Clothing pattern making and collar matching method based on angle principle
CN112137212A (en) * 2020-08-25 2020-12-29 山东科技职业学院 Collar separating method for two-piece lapel
CN113576086A (en) * 2020-04-30 2021-11-02 长春工程学院 Folding collar structure design method

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1422567A (en) * 2001-11-25 2003-06-11 葛俊康 Cutting-out method for lapel
RU2295898C2 (en) * 2005-03-17 2007-03-27 Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" Method for plotting of collar pattern
CN105455277A (en) * 2015-11-16 2016-04-06 胡亨有 VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing
CN105996265A (en) * 2016-06-07 2016-10-12 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Method for making template for turning down garment collars
CN107006927A (en) * 2017-03-17 2017-08-04 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar method for platemaking and Western-style clothes
CN107114837A (en) * 2017-03-17 2017-09-01 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 The preparation method and Western-style clothes turndown collar of a kind of collar version applied to Western-style clothes turndown collar

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1422567A (en) * 2001-11-25 2003-06-11 葛俊康 Cutting-out method for lapel
RU2295898C2 (en) * 2005-03-17 2007-03-27 Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" Method for plotting of collar pattern
CN105455277A (en) * 2015-11-16 2016-04-06 胡亨有 VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing
CN105996265A (en) * 2016-06-07 2016-10-12 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Method for making template for turning down garment collars
CN107006927A (en) * 2017-03-17 2017-08-04 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar method for platemaking and Western-style clothes
CN107114837A (en) * 2017-03-17 2017-09-01 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 The preparation method and Western-style clothes turndown collar of a kind of collar version applied to Western-style clothes turndown collar

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Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108576994A (en) * 2018-04-19 2018-09-28 浙江海明实业有限公司 A kind of preparation method of collar
CN109497644A (en) * 2018-11-29 2019-03-22 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar
CN110179193A (en) * 2019-05-31 2019-08-30 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 The method for platemaking of single piece type turndown collar
CN110477465A (en) * 2019-08-07 2019-11-22 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 A kind of probe left front collar is tailored and stitch the sole to the upper tailor's process
CN110652059A (en) * 2019-09-23 2020-01-07 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 Clothing pattern making and collar matching method based on angle principle
CN110652059B (en) * 2019-09-23 2023-09-01 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 Clothing platemaking collar matching method based on angle principle
CN113576086A (en) * 2020-04-30 2021-11-02 长春工程学院 Folding collar structure design method
CN112137212A (en) * 2020-08-25 2020-12-29 山东科技职业学院 Collar separating method for two-piece lapel
CN112137212B (en) * 2020-08-25 2022-09-23 山东科技职业学院 Collar separating method for two-piece lapel

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Denomination of invention: A Method for Drawing the Structure of a Suit Lapel Collar

Effective date of registration: 20230818

Granted publication date: 20200428

Pledgee: Yantai financing guarantee Group Co.,Ltd.

Pledgor: Yantai Nanshan University

Registration number: Y2023980052760