CN1422567A - Cutting-out method for lapel - Google Patents
Cutting-out method for lapel Download PDFInfo
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- CN1422567A CN1422567A CN 01130527 CN01130527A CN1422567A CN 1422567 A CN1422567 A CN 1422567A CN 01130527 CN01130527 CN 01130527 CN 01130527 A CN01130527 A CN 01130527A CN 1422567 A CN1422567 A CN 1422567A
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a method for cutting conventional lapel, folding collar, turning collar and bent collar. It is characterized by that it uses that the size of back centre of collar and size of collar form of neck side place parallel to the back centre line are identical as principle, and directly uses the length size required for periphery of collar front and collar back portions as basis to find out the correspondent point connected with back collar, and uses circular centre method to define size of back collar opening, length of periphery of back collar, and size of back centre. Said invention provides a calculation formula of length of back collar periphery, so that it can accurately and clearly obtain these sizes.
Description
The present invention relates to refute, roll over and refute, bend and refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel in turning over of a kind of clothes routine, be meant that especially the neck shape size that collar rear center size and neck side place are parallel to rear center's line equates to be principle, definite method of collar Outside Dimensions when neck face width, neck waist and the neck width etc. at neck side place change.
Clothes routine in the prior art turns over and refutes, roll over and refute, curvedly refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel, normally determines that with fixed number or ratio, angle the back leads the object-line of bottom line, rear center's line and collar, as (Fig. 1, Fig. 2).Because determining does not like this have directly to calculate with the length of object-line, do not consider the relation that neck side place leads the width of face that the periphery is changed yet, so the clothes of making often differ greatly with effect, it is unnecessary or not enough that the collar Outside Dimensions produces, influence the effect of collar, therefore invent rationally a kind of and accurately, turning over of clothes routine refuted, rolled over and refute, curvedly refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel easily, become the difficult problem that must solve in the clothes clothing industry.
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of clothes routine to turn over to refute, roll over and refute, curvedly refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel, the length of object-line before and after directly finding out according to neck shape, method rationally, understand, utilization is convenient.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention realizes by following technical scheme:
A kind of clothes routine is turned over and is refuted, rolls over and refute, bend and refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel, at first establish collar rear center size and equate to be principle with the neck shape size that neck side place is parallel to rear center's line, in leading shape and the relation of refuting broken line, the predecessor finds the corresponding points that are connected with back body object-line, collar hole line, with the draw necessary size of peripheral long and neck hole, the back arc length of back neck of center of circle method, according to collar rear center size, connect each point and get final product again.
The present invention also can further realize by following proposal:
Neck hole, back arc length leads hole depth relevant with the back recessed gesture of neck camber line with back neck width, back, and available tape measuring also can calculate.Neck hole, back arc length=back neck width+0.7+ (back neck hole depth-2)/2.Back collar periphery line is long, mainly leads face width, rear center to lead factors such as the plasticity of the angle of face width, back neck width and shoulder slope, neck waist formation, lining, fabric thickness, processing technology relevant with SNP SIDE NECK POINT collar waist size, rear center's collar waist size, SNP SIDE NECK POINT.According to the relation of neck root inclined-plane with the neck waist, rear center neck waist=neck side neck waist+0.7 centimeter.And the present invention to discuss the principle routinely of neck be that rear center's collar size and SNP SIDE NECK POINT place are parallel to that the neck shape of rear center's line is wide to be equated, so the neck waist at neck side place, neck face width have determined the width of rear center's neck face simultaneously, through the setting-out of different size, conclude length=neck hole, the back arc length+Δ that draws the back collar periphery line.If the neck waist at neck side place is that the neck face width at SA, neck side place is AM, Δ=1.2AM-3-(SA-2), SA gets 2.0 o'clock Δ=1.2AM-3 usually; Work as SA=2, when AM≤6 centimeter, Δ ≈ AM-2 centimetre.
As dimensional units is cun: then hole arc length=back neck width+0.2+ (back neck hole depth-0.6)/2 is led in the back.Neck hole, back collar periphery line length=back arc length+Δ.Δ＝1.2AM-0.9-(SA-0.6)。When SA gets 0.6, Δ=1.2AM-0.9.When SA gets 0.6, AM≤1.8 o'clock, Δ ≈ AM-0.6 cun.
Turn over clothes routine of the prior art and to refute, to roll over and refute, curvedly refute, bend the cutting of refuting lapel and compare, clothes routine of the present invention turns over and refutes, roll over refute, curved method of cutting out of refuting, bending collar, emphasized that necessary elder generation by the neck type, finds the length of object-line again.Main wide with neck width, neck side place neck face of the length of back body collar object-line, neck side place leads the height of waist relevant, and has summed up reasonable and easy computational methods, can directly find out required peripheral line length, clear, understandable, the easy grasp of orderliness.
Below in conjunction with embodiment and conjunction with figs., clothes routine of the present invention turned over refute, roll over refute, curved characteristics and use of refuting, bending the method for cutting out of refuting lapel be described further.
Fig. 3 is the conventional collar method of cutting out that turns over.
Fig. 4 is the conventional reverse method of cutting out that turns over collar.
Fig. 5 refutes the method for cutting out of lapel for conventional folding.
Fig. 6 is conventional curved method of cutting out of refuting lapel.
Fig. 7 refutes the method for cutting out of lapel for conventional bending.
At first see also Fig. 3 and be the conventional collar method of cutting out that turns over.The extended line of making the shoulder line by the neck width S of predecessor point is to the A point, and SA is the neck waist at neck side place, and A point is for refuting break, determines to refute according to neck shape and rolls over stop B, and AB is for refuting broken line in connection.Refuting the neck shape that broken line draws required on one side, AM is the neck face width at neck side place (shoulder line place), and M is collar periphery line and the intersection point of takeing on line.To refute the corresponding points M ' that the broken line symmetry finds M to order.With the S point is the center of circle, and neck hole, back arc length is that radius is made arc, neck hole, back arc length=back neck width+0.7+ (back neck hole depth-2)/2; With M ' is the center of circle, and back collar periphery line length is made arc for radius, back collar periphery line length=back neck hole arc length+Δ, and Δ=1.2AM-3-(SA-2.0), usually during SA=2.0, Δ=1.2AM-3.When AM≤6 centimeter, and during SA=2, Δ ≈ AM-2.0.With a right-angle side of drawing square by the S point, another right-angle side is tangential on two camber lines and draws two straight line SC and CL, CL is perpendicular to SC, the CL straight line be the tangential in the center of circle with M ', usually can be similar to friendship to a section, get the neck face width size of the parallel rear center in the size CD=of rear center SNP SIDE NECK POINT S place line, fairing connects DM ' and gets final product, and makes the interior among a small circle DM ' of D point perpendicular to CD.Prolong the predecessor and lead the face cut-off rule to F, F is apart from refuting about broken line AB1.5 centimetre, and connecting SF is interior cut-off rule, at last fairing S point on collar.
See also Fig. 4 again, be the reverse method of cutting out that turns over collar of routine.Definite method of the size of back neck and rear center line is identical with the conventional collar that turns over, and different is: the corresponding points S ' that neck lower collar thread and neck hole S orders is to be the corresponding points that the S of symmetry is ordered to refute broken line, is the center of circle with S ', after lead hole camber line length to make arc for radius; The intersection point M point that is trapped among shoulder line place with the neck face outward is the center of circle, and the peripheral line length in neck hole, back is that radius is made arc.F ' S ' is to refute the corresponding line that broken line is the SF of symmetry.
Figure 5 shows that conventional folding refutes the method for cutting out of lapel, determine neck width S point in the predecessor, A point is the extended line of shoulder line, and SA is the neck waist at neck side place, determines to roll over over-lapping stitch AB ', B ' B and the predecessor leads shape according to neck shape.Shoulder line place neck face width is AM, is symmetry with the AB ' that refutes broken line, and S ' is the corresponding points that S is ordered.With S ' is the center of circle, and neck hole, back arc length is that radius is drawn arc; With the M point is the center of circle, and back collar periphery line is long draws arc for radius, and the method for cutting out of back neck is identical with the conventional reverse method of cutting out that turns over collar.SB ' is interior cut-off rule, and S ' B ' is to refute the corresponding line that broken line is the SB ' of symmetry, last fairing S '.
Figure 6 shows that conventional curved method of cutting out of refuting lapel, in the predecessor, determine neck width S point, the A point is the extended line of shoulder line, SA is the neck waist at neck side place, determine that according to neck shape bending line AB and predecessor lead shape, get the corresponding points S ' of S point, SA=S ' A, SB=S ' B with bending line, with S ' be the center of circle, back neck hole arc length is that radius is made arc; With the M point is the center of circle, and back collar periphery line length is made arc for radius, and the method for cutting out of back neck is identical with the reverse method of cutting out that routine is turned over collar, determines B1 ', B2 ', makes B1A1=B1 ' A1, B2A2=A2B2 ', and fairing connects CS ', B1 ' B2 ', B point again.
Figure 7 shows that the conventional method of cutting out of refuting lapel that bends, in the predecessor, determine neck width S point, the A point is the extended line of shoulder line, SA is a neck side place neck waist, determine AB ', the folding over-lapping stitch B ' B of bending line according to neck shape, and the predecessor that draws leads shape, and curved neck and back neck of refuting part connects together, and the method for cutting out of the bend collar of the routine among the method for cutting and Fig. 6 is identical.Folding is refuted the method for cutting out of part according to collar, finds the predecessor to lead the outline line of shape with folding over-lapping stitch symmetry.
Claims (4)
1, turning over of a kind of clothes routine refuted, rolled over and refute, bend and refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel, at first establish the neck shape size that collar rear center size and neck side place be parallel to rear center's line and equate to be principle, in leading shape and the relation of refuting broken line, the predecessor finds the corresponding points that are connected with back body object-line, collar hole line, with the draw necessary size of peripheral long and neck hole, the back arc length of back neck of center of circle method, according to collar rear center size, connect each point and get final product again.
Neck hole, back arc length leads hole depth relevant with the back recessed gesture of neck camber line with back neck width, back, and available tape measuring also can calculate.Neck hole, back arc length=back neck width+0.7+ (back neck hole depth-2)/2.Back collar periphery line is long, mainly leads face width, rear center to lead factors such as the plasticity of the angle of face width, back neck width and shoulder slope, neck waist formation, lining, fabric thickness, processing technology relevant with SNP SIDE NECK POINT collar waist size, rear center's collar waist size, SNP SIDE NECK POINT.According to the relation of neck root inclined-plane with the neck waist, rear center neck waist=neck side neck waist+0.7 centimeter.And the present invention to discuss the principle routinely of neck be that rear center's collar size and SNP SIDE NECK POINT place are parallel to that the neck shape of rear center's line is wide to be equated, so the neck waist at neck side place, neck face width have determined the width of rear center's neck face simultaneously, through the setting-out of different size, conclude length=neck hole, the back arc length+Δ that draws the back collar periphery line.If the neck waist at neck side place is that the neck face width at SA, neck side place is AM, Δ=1.2AM-3-(SA-2), SA gets 2.0 o'clock Δ=1.2AM-3 usually; Work as SA=2, when AM≤6 centimeter, Δ ≈ AM-2 centimetre.
As dimensional units is cun: then hole arc length=back neck width+0.2+ (back neck hole depth-0.6)/2 is led in the back.Neck hole, back collar periphery line length=back arc length+Δ.Δ＝1.2AM-0.9-(SA-0.6)。When SA gets 0.6, Δ=1.2AM-0.9.When SA gets 0.6, AM≤1.8 o'clock, Δ ≈ AM-0.6 cun.
2, turn over according to claims 1 described clothes routine and refute, roll over and refute, curved refute, bend the method for cutting out of refuting lapel, the conventional method of cutting out that turns over collar is to make the extended line of shoulder line to the A point by the neck width S of predecessor point, SA is the neck waist at neck side place, the A point is for refuting break, determine to refute folding stop B according to neck shape, connect AB for refuting broken line.Refuting the neck shape that broken line draws required on one side, AM is the neck face width at neck side place (shoulder line place), and M is collar periphery line and the intersection point of takeing on line.To refute the corresponding points M ' that the broken line symmetry finds M to order.With the S point is the center of circle, and neck hole, back arc length is that radius is made arc, neck hole, back arc length=back neck width+0.7+ (back neck hole depth-2)/2; With M ' is the center of circle, and back collar periphery line length is made arc for radius, back collar periphery line length=back neck hole arc length+Δ, and Δ=1.2AM-3-(SA-2.0), usually during SA=2.0, Δ=1.2AM-3.When AM≤6 centimeter, and during SA=2, Δ ≈ AM-2.0.With a right-angle side of drawing square by the S point, another right-angle side is tangential on two camber lines and draws two straight line SC and CL, CL is perpendicular to SC, the CL straight line be the tangential in the center of circle with M ', usually can be similar to friendship to a section, get the neck face width size of the parallel rear center in the size CD=of rear center SNP SIDE NECK POINT S place line, fairing connects DM ' and gets final product, and makes the interior among a small circle DM ' of D point perpendicular to CD.Prolong the predecessor and lead the face cut-off rule to F, F is apart from refuting about broken line AB1.5 centimetre, and connecting SF is interior cut-off rule, at last fairing S point on collar.
3, turn over according to claims 1,2 described routines and refute, roll over and refute, curved refute, bend the method for cutting out and the conventional method of cutting out that turns over collar of refuting lapel, the back neck size of the conventional reverse method of cutting out that turns over collar, definite method of rear center's line are identical with the conventional collar that turns over, different is: neck lower collar thread and the corresponding points S ' that leads hole S to order, be to be the corresponding points that the S of symmetry is ordered to refute broken line, with S ' is the center of circle, and neck hole, back camber line length is made arc for radius; It is the M point that the predecessor leads the face object-line and the intersection point at shoulder line place, with the M point is the center of circle, the peripheral line length in neck hole, back is that radius is drawn arc, and a right-angle side using drawing square is by S ' point, and another right-angle side is tangential on two camber lines and draws two straight line S ' C and CL, CL is perpendicular to S ' C, the CL straight line be the tangential in the center of circle with the M point, can be similar to friendship to a section, the neck face width of getting the parallel rear center in the size CD=of rear center SNP SIDE NECK POINT S place line usually, fairing connects DM and gets final product, and makes the interior among a small circle DM of D point perpendicular to CD.Prolong the predecessor and lead the face cut-off rule to F, F is apart from refuting about broken line AB1.5 centimetre, and connecting SF is interior cut-off rule, and F ' is that S ' F ' is the corresponding line of SF, at last fairing S ' point on collar with the corresponding points of over-lapping stitch symmetry F.
4, turn over according to claims 1,3 described routines and refute, roll over and refute, curved refute, bend the method for cutting out and the conventional reverse method of cutting out that turns over collar of refuting lapel, conventional folding refutes, curvedly refute, bend the back neck of refuting lapel and determine that method is identical with the conventional reverse method of cutting out of collar that turns over.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 01130527 CN1422567A (en) | 2001-11-25 | 2001-11-25 | Cutting-out method for lapel |
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| CN 01130527 CN1422567A (en) | 2001-11-25 | 2001-11-25 | Cutting-out method for lapel |
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Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105433488A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-03-30 | 胡亨有 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
| CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
| CN107114837A (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2017-09-01 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | The preparation method and Western-style clothes turndown collar of a kind of collar version applied to Western-style clothes turndown collar |
| CN108813775A (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2018-11-16 | 烟台南山学院 | A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method |
| CN109497644A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar |
| CN110558659A (en) * | 2019-09-23 | 2019-12-13 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | method for making plate and matching collar of unconventional turn-down collar clothes |
| CN110881730A (en) * | 2019-12-31 | 2020-03-17 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Collar matching method applied to student uniform and structure of student uniform assembled collar body |
| CN111772282A (en) * | 2020-06-17 | 2020-10-16 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for separate design of clothing sharp lapel |
| CN113576086A (en) * | 2020-04-30 | 2021-11-02 | 长春工程学院 | Folding collar structure design method |
-
2001
- 2001-11-25 CN CN 01130527 patent/CN1422567A/en active Pending
Cited By (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105433488A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-03-30 | 胡亨有 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
| CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
| CN105433488B (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2017-04-12 | 胡亨有 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
| CN107114837A (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2017-09-01 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | The preparation method and Western-style clothes turndown collar of a kind of collar version applied to Western-style clothes turndown collar |
| CN108813775A (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2018-11-16 | 烟台南山学院 | A kind of Western-style clothes turndown collar structure drawing method |
| CN109497644A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar |
| CN110558659A (en) * | 2019-09-23 | 2019-12-13 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | method for making plate and matching collar of unconventional turn-down collar clothes |
| CN110558659B (en) * | 2019-09-23 | 2023-08-25 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Unconventional large lapel garment platemaking collar matching method |
| CN110881730A (en) * | 2019-12-31 | 2020-03-17 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Collar matching method applied to student uniform and structure of student uniform assembled collar body |
| CN113576086A (en) * | 2020-04-30 | 2021-11-02 | 长春工程学院 | Folding collar structure design method |
| CN111772282A (en) * | 2020-06-17 | 2020-10-16 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for separate design of clothing sharp lapel |
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