CN1451328A - Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source - Google Patents
Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source Download PDFInfo
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- CN1451328A CN1451328A CN 02108962 CN02108962A CN1451328A CN 1451328 A CN1451328 A CN 1451328A CN 02108962 CN02108962 CN 02108962 CN 02108962 A CN02108962 A CN 02108962A CN 1451328 A CN1451328 A CN 1451328A
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- line
- sleeve
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- muffs
- muffs hole
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Abstract
A method for determining the sizes as the basis of sleeve cap line shape in cutting sleeve of clothes is characterized by that the state of stereo armhole formed by front and back armholes' arc lines is first determined according to the width and deepth of armhole, over-shoulder amount and concavity, and the line chart of multiple cross-sections on armhole is found out according to style.
Description
The present invention relates to method for determining size, be meant a kind of three-dimensional muffs hole that is constituted according to front and back garment piece muffs and sleeve different angles especially and have or not the method for determining size of the relevant line style of sleeve that shoulder pad, shoulder pad kind do not coincide simultaneously in a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source.
The size of the garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source in the prior art is determined, usually just analyze under the sleeve lateral vertical state and determine (as Fig. 1) with the size of the high intersecting lens that coincide more than 1/2 of muffs hole, do not relate to the source of the sleeve mountain line style when the different angles of sleeve side yet, so complete theoretical foundation of definite shortage of sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type, therefore invent the definite method of size in a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap type source, become a difficult problem that needs to be resolved hurrily in the apparel industry.
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source,, guarantee that sleeve and garment piece coupling rationally, accurately for the size of sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type determines to provide theoretical foundation.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source, the state of the three-dimensional muffs hole that at first wide according to front and back garment piece muffs, muffs is dark, the front and back muffs camber line of distance between two shoulders, the decision of recessed gesture constitutes; When having or not shoulder pad, shoulder pad kind and sleeve side to become vertical and flare different angles according to style again, find the line illustration in multiple tracks cross section on the muffs hole, come thus to determine and the identical relevant line style of sleeve of muffs hole that the method for determining size of this relevant line style is the method for determining size of sleeve mountain line type source.
Determine to compare with the size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source in the prior art, the method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source of the present invention, found the source of sleeve mountain line style theoretically, orderliness is clear, size is accurate, for sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type determine and the exploitation of CAD of Garment provides foundation.
Be described further below by embodiment and conjunction with figs. method for determining size garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram of muffs camber line before and after the garment piece.
Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram that the shoulder splicing constitutes muffs hole before and after the garment piece.
Fig. 4 is the sleeve relevant line style of coincideing of sleeve under the sleeve side one-tenth plumbness of no shoulder pad with muffs hole, the structural representation of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve.
Fig. 5 is the identical relevant line style of sleeve that the sleeve side of square shoulder pad becomes sleeve and muffs hole under the plumbness, the structural representation of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve.
Fig. 6 be the sleeve side of the square shoulder pad sleeve during with vertical one-tenth α angle with muffs hole after the body portion relevant line style of coincideing, i.e. the back structural representation of mountain line type source of tucking inside the sleeve.
Fig. 7 is the line illustration in each cross section on the muffs hole during with the vertical α of one-tenth angle of the sleeve side of square shoulder pad.
Fig. 8 is the sleeve side of the square shoulder pad sleeve and the identical relevant line style of muffs hole, the structure chart of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve during with vertical one-tenth α angle.
Fig. 9 is camber shoulder pad and the difference schematic diagram of square shoulder pad on the line style in cross section 1,2 under the sleeve lateral vertical state.
At first see also the schematic diagram of Fig. 2 for muffs camber line before and after the garment piece.Before and after the muffs camber line determine, distance between two shoulders dark, the recessed gesture decision of muffs by shoulder breadth, chest measurement, muffs.Be generally the wide size of muffs between chest breadth line and the across back line.Before and after distance between two shoulders be the horizontal range of point of shoulder and chest breadth line, across back line, certain any distance between two shoulders is the horizontal range of point of shoulder point vertical line and this point on the muffs camber line.
See also Fig. 3 again and constitute the schematic diagram of muffs hole for shoulder splicing before and after the garment piece.Front and back garment piece shoulder seam, latasuture splicing back constitute three-dimensional muffs hole, and the size of muffs hole height is wide by muffs hole, the front and back muffs determines deeply.Loose part of decision of the wide thickness by human body side arm root of muffs hole, shoulder pad thickness, clothing body thickness, it is wide to be generally muffs.
Fig. 4 is the sleeve relevant line style of coincideing of sleeve under the sleeve side one-tenth plumbness of no shoulder pad with muffs hole, the structural representation of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve.At first muffs hole is carried out 6 road horizontal sections, section 1,2 is on 1/2 muffs hole height, and near the muffs hole top, section 3 is at 1/2 high place of muffs hole, and section 4,5 is high 1/2 time at muffs hole, and near the muffs hole bottom, section 6 is in the muffs hole bottom.When style for no shoulder pad and sleeve side when becoming plumbness, the width of cross section 1,2 line styles is respectively the width of hatching 1,2 friendship muffs holes; Thickness is the distance between two shoulders that hatching 1,2 is handed over the muffs hole each point, and the datum line of sleeve thickness is RS, and muffs hole summit Q drops on and is Q ' point on the thickness datum line.A, B 2 points are handed at the widest part of muffs hole in the position of section 3, so the line style width in cross section 3 is that muffs hole is wide, the A point is on the across back line, the B point is apart from chest breadth line 0-0.5 centimetre, usually the sleeve thickness line of symmetry of design is of a size of preceding distance between two shoulders apart from sleeve thickness datum line RS, the thickness setting that A is ordered is on sleeve thickness line of symmetry, and the thickness that B is ordered is the 0-0.5 centimetre outside line of symmetry.Section 4,5 is in 1/2 muffs hole relative superiority or inferiority, thus the cross section line style in sleeve thickness line of symmetry symmetry on the line style, the position in their each leisures on the line style is each section width position corresponding with the muffs hole intersection point.Section 6 hands over the latasuture place a bit with muffs hole, position, cross section width position corresponding with latasuture point on line style in the sleeve.The following recessed gesture of cross section line style of 1/2 muffs hole height the fairing of the line style in cross section 1,2, is advisable about 1.0 centimeters naturally.Measure the arc length of each cross section line style, equal the length dimension on each identical hatching of corresponding sleeve and muffs hole, sleeve mountain top point is at the muffs hole vertex position, and fairing connects the sleeve mountain line style under the sleeve side one-tenth plumbness that each point is no shoulder pad then.
Fig. 5 is the identical relevant line style of sleeve that the sleeve side of square shoulder pad becomes sleeve and muffs hole under the plumbness, the structural representation of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve.Definite method of the relevant line style of sleeve that sleeve and muffs hole coincide and the method for Fig. 4 are basic identical, and just shoulder pad is arranged on the outer Δ size of point of shoulder point usually, and generally Δ is got 1.0 centimeters.Each cross section line style increases the Δ size on thickness, the sleeve mountain top point Δ size that makes progress on the muffs hole summit satisfies the amount of transferring in packet header of square shoulder pad.
Fig. 6 be the sleeve side of the square shoulder pad sleeve during with vertical one-tenth α angle with muffs hole after the body portion relevant line style of coincideing, i.e. the back structural representation of mountain line type source of tucking inside the sleeve.According to the principle of Fig. 4, Fig. 5, the rear side point on the sleeve mountain line style in the time of can finding square shoulder pad sleeve side to become plumbness is established this point and is
, when the sleeve side with vertical when becoming the α angle, the summit is the Q point on the muffs hole summit.The relation on and plane three-dimensional according to the sleeve mountain, with the relation of same muffs hole, must pass through perpendicular to the BICEP line of sleeve side effect line
Point, sleeve mountain effect line is new sleeve center line.Sleeve center line and Q point vertical line on each body lines hand over to such an extent that be of a size of, hatching 1 place is
1, hatching 2 places are
2, the intersection point place of sleeve center line and BICEP line is
Fertile,
1,
2When being the sleeve side with the vertical α of one-tenth angle, the amount that cross section 1,2 becomes the line style thickness under the plumbness to increase in the sleeve side.The equally divided position of muffs camber line is approached, so in the high centre of muffs hole in cross section 3
FertileFor the sleeve side with vertical when becoming the α angle, the amount that cross section 3 becomes the line style thickness under the plumbness to increase in the sleeve side, the three-dimensional thickness of complete sleeve is the thickness at 3 places, two cross sections.Definite method of the width of each cross section line style and Fig. 4, Fig. 5 is the same, and the line style in cross section 4,5 is in sleeve thickness line of symmetry symmetry on the line style, and on the corresponding width of section 4,5 and muffs hole intersection point.Fairing connects each cross section line style, and the recessed gesture of the line style of section 3 is relevant with α, generally 1.5～2.0 centimeters scopes, and can check the length of line style according to this figure, because the arc length in cross section 6 must equal among the figure
Length.When each cross section arc length equals the sleeve side with the vertical α of one-tenth angle, new sleeve center line is to the length dimension on the limit, mountain of tucking inside the sleeve on each hatching that coincide with muffs hole, sleeve mountain top point Δ size on the muffs hole summit, the identical relevant line style of body portion behind sleeve when fairing connects sleeve side that each point is the square shoulder pad with vertical one-tenth α angle and the muffs hole, the structure chart of the mountain line type source of tucking inside the sleeve after promptly.
Fig. 7 is the line illustration in each cross section on the muffs hole during with the vertical α of one-tenth angle of the sleeve side of square shoulder pad.The line style of portion of predecessor method definite and among Fig. 6 is identical.
Fig. 8 is the sleeve side of the square shoulder pad sleeve and the identical relevant line style of muffs hole, the structure chart of the mountain line type source of promptly tucking inside the sleeve during with vertical one-tenth α angle.Sleeve center line to the size of cap arc line is respectively the arc length in each cross section among corresponding Fig. 7 on each cross-sectional upper thread of front and back, and fairing connects each point and is complete sleeve mountain line style.
Fig. 9 is camber shoulder pad and the difference schematic diagram of square shoulder pad on the line style in cross section 1,2 under the sleeve lateral vertical state.Thick dashed line is the line style in cross section 1,2 under the camber shoulder pad sleeve lateral vertical state, and heavy line is the line style in the cross section 1,2 under the square shoulder pad sleeve lateral vertical state.
Claims (10)
1, a kind of method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source, the state of the three-dimensional muffs hole that at first wide according to front and back garment piece muffs, muffs is dark, the front and back muffs camber line of distance between two shoulders, the decision of recessed gesture constitutes; When having or not shoulder pad, shoulder pad kind and sleeve side to become vertical and flare different angles according to style again, find the line illustration in multiple tracks cross section on the muffs hole, come thus to determine and the identical relevant line style of sleeve of muffs hole that the method for determining size of this relevant line style is the method for determining size of sleeve mountain line type source.
2, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type.Be generally the wide size of muffs between chest breadth line and the across back line.Before and after distance between two shoulders be the horizontal range of point of shoulder and chest breadth line, across back line, certain any distance between two shoulders is the horizontal range of point of shoulder point vertical line and this point on the muffs camber line.
3, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type.Front and back shoulder splicing constitutes the schematic diagram of muffs hole.Front and back garment piece shoulder seam, latasuture splicing back constitute three-dimensional muffs hole, and the size of muffs hole height is wide by muffs hole, the front and back muffs determines deeply.Loose part of decision of the wide thickness by human body side arm root of muffs hole, shoulder pad thickness, clothing body thickness, it is wide to be generally muffs.
4, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type.At the height and position that carries out cross section, 6 road on the muffs hole be: section 1,2 is on 1/2 muffs hole height, and near the muffs hole top, section 3 is at 1/2 high place of muffs hole, and section 4,5 is high 1/2 time at muffs hole, and near the muffs hole bottom, section 6 is in the muffs hole bottom.
5, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.When the sleeve side became plumbness or flare different angles, when style has or not shoulder pad or shoulder pad kind not simultaneously, the width of the cross section line style of each the road section that carries out on muffs hole was constant.The width of cross section 1,2 line styles is respectively the width that hatching 1,2 is handed over muffs hole; The position of section 3 is at the widest part of muffs hole, so the line style width in cross section 3 is that muffs hole is wide; Section 4,5 is below 1/2 muffs hole is high, and the line style that is constituted is on line style in the sleeve thickness line of symmetry, and their width on the line style of lining are respectively the width that hatching 4,5 is handed over muffs hole; Section 6 meets at the latasuture point at muffs hole, is the width position corresponding with latasuture point on the line style in the sleeve.
6, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.When the sleeve side becomes plumbness, when style has or not shoulder pad, the gauge of muffs hole cross section line style is: the line style thickness in cross section 1,2 is that hatching 1,2 hands over the distance between two shoulders of muffs hole each point to add the size Δ of the shoulder pad outside apart from point of shoulder, when no shoulder pad, and Δ=0.Section 3 hands over muffs hole the widest part in A, B 2 points, joining A is on the across back line, joining B is apart from chest breadth line 0-0.5 centimetre, the sleeve thickness line of symmetry of common design is of a size of the preshoot shoulder apart from sleeve thickness datum line and adds Δ, the thickness setting that A is ordered is on sleeve thickness line of symmetry, and the thickness that B is ordered is the 0-0.5 centimetre outside line of symmetry.Section 4,5 is in 1/2 muffs hole relative superiority or inferiority, thus the line style in cross section in sleeve thickness line of symmetry symmetry on the line style, the point in their each leisures on the line style is the width position of each section and muffs hole intersection point.Section 6 hands over the latasuture place a bit with muffs hole, cross section thickness position width position corresponding with latasuture point on line style in the sleeve.
7, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.When the sleeve side with vertical when becoming the α angle, when style had or not shoulder pad, the gauge of muffs hole cross section line style was: the line style thickness in cross section 1,2 is that hatching 1,2 is handed over the distance between two shoulders of muffs hole each points to add the shoulder pad outside to add again apart from the size Δ of point of shoulder
1, or
2(
1,
2The level amount that increases at section 1,2 apart from muffs hole summit vertical line for the α angle line).When no shoulder pad, Δ=0.The line style thickness in cross section 3 is that preshoot shoulder adds Δ and adds again
Fertile, (
FertileBe the intersection point of α angle line and this BICEP line level amount apart from muffs hole summit vertical line), when no shoulder pad, Δ=0.Section 4,5 below 1/2 muffs hole height, the cross section line style the sleeve thickness with section 3 be symmetry on the line style, hand on the width of muffs hole each points with respect to section 4,5 position separately.
8, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.When each money has or not shoulder pad, shoulder pad kind and sleeve side to become vertical or flare different angles, the recessed gesture of corner of the following upper thread type of each cross section line illustration 1/2 muffs hole height is generally about 1～2 centimeter on the muffs hole, and the length of the cross section sleeve line style of sleeve side during with the vertical α of one-tenth angle should equal the length of this BICEP line.The line style in the cross section, two roads on the muffs hole high 1/2 is with fairing, be advisable naturally.
9, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4,5,6,7,8 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.Style has or not shoulder pad, and when shoulder pad kind and sleeve side became vertical and flare different angles, the length dimension on identical each hatching of sleeve and muffs hole equaled the arc length of corresponding each cross section line style.Style does not have shoulder pad, and sleeve mountain top point is at the muffs hole vertex position; When using the square shoulder pad, should upwards increase the shoulder pad outside on the muffs hole summit and be sleeve mountain top point apart from the size Δ of point of shoulder; When using the camber shoulder pad, should upwards increase the Δ size on the muffs hole summit and subtract 0.5 centimeter and be of a size of sleeve mountain top point.
10, according to the method for determining size in the source of claims 1,4 described a kind of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line types.When style during with the camber shoulder pad, the gauge in cross section 1 is apart from 0.2～0.3 centimeter of thickness datum line, and 1,2 corners, cross section than the line style of square shoulder pad more directly.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02108962 CN1451328A (en) | 2002-04-14 | 2002-04-14 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02108962 CN1451328A (en) | 2002-04-14 | 2002-04-14 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
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| CN1451328A true CN1451328A (en) | 2003-10-29 |
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| CN 02108962 Pending CN1451328A (en) | 2002-04-14 | 2002-04-14 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
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Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101716022B (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2012-06-27 | 胡亨有 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN101756406B (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2012-08-08 | 胡亨有 | Method for clipping armhole of clothing with unequal-height front and rear shoulder points |
| CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
| CN108523286A (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2018-09-14 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | A kind of control of coat-sleeve angle, accurate sleeve-matching method |
| CN109393615A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve |
-
2002
- 2002-04-14 CN CN 02108962 patent/CN1451328A/en active Pending
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101716022B (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2012-06-27 | 胡亨有 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
| CN101756406B (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2012-08-08 | 胡亨有 | Method for clipping armhole of clothing with unequal-height front and rear shoulder points |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN102613761B (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2013-11-27 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
| CN103622194B (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-11-05 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
| CN108523286A (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2018-09-14 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | A kind of control of coat-sleeve angle, accurate sleeve-matching method |
| CN108523286B (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2020-12-08 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | Sleeve angle control and accurate sleeve matching method |
| CN109393615A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve |
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