CN101716022B - Novel armhole tailoring method - Google Patents
Novel armhole tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN101716022B CN101716022B CN2009103102627A CN200910310262A CN101716022B CN 101716022 B CN101716022 B CN 101716022B CN 2009103102627 A CN2009103102627 A CN 2009103102627A CN 200910310262 A CN200910310262 A CN 200910310262A CN 101716022 B CN101716022 B CN 101716022B
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- armhole
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- shoulder
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Abstract
The invention relates to an armhole cutting method. Firstly, determining the perimeter, chest width, back width, shoulder width and chest circumference of an armhole, and setting the perimeter of the armhole as AH; the figure of armhole cutting line is determined by the rectangle determined by the shoulder width line, the back width line and the armhole depth bottom line. This procedure is suitable from the practical experience of garment tailoring. Therefore, the armhole depth can be determined by the position of the cross of the diagonal line L of the rectangle and the back width line. Therefore, under the condition of determining the perimeter of the armhole, the depth of the armhole can be determined according to the width of the armhole, the width of the armhole can be obtained according to the width of the armhole, namely half chest circumference-chest width/2-back width/2, and the half chest circumference, the chest width and the back width are important indexes of the style of the clothes. Therefore, the armhole depth can be conveniently determined according to the requirements of the style of the garment.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of dress designing manufacturing approach, especially relate to a kind of armhole tailoring method.
Background technology
Clothes armhole structure all has important effect to the style of clothes, the comfort level of clothes in dress designing, manufacturing.Present clothing plate making technology mainly contains rule of three, fundamental mode, prototype.Wherein most representative prototype is the new cultural prototype of Japan, but these technology all are to realize with some formula of piecing together out, like B/6+3, and 1.5/10B+3,2/10B-1.5, B/6+7,2B/10+3, B/6+8,2B/10+3 etc.And the plate-making technology of these formula finally has only a result.The result who is exactly these formula realizations has only a kind of edition type.Real-life clothes version type then has countless versions.So the expert points out that clothing plate makings such as present proportional-type, prototype technology is also impracticable.In fact really the technology that is used for clothing plate making only limits to revising realization plate-making repeatedly making sheet teacher, or plate-making by rule of thumb.This plate-making technology to a great extent limit the development of clothing industry.In order to address these problems, people have carried out a lot of explorations.
Application number is that the utility model of 200610146053.X discloses the present invention of a kind of 180 ° of digitalized clothing plate making technical schemes, and it adopts angle, numeral, equation to calculate, and makes clothing plate making technological sciences property, regularity, broad spectrum activity.Technical essential: the shoulder moulding is with 180 °, and 181 °, 182 °, 183 ° ... Angle is represented or 6.8,6.7,6.6,6.5 ... Numerical calculation, armhole are used equation deeply: and average armhole is dark * and calculate on the best sleeve of 0.85=mountain.And sleeve mountain BICEP can be confirmed by ideal simultaneously.Present technique is used for clothing industry plate-making, apparel construction design, and tailoring.
The dark definite method of above-mentioned this armhole exists armhole and has the problem of fixed proportion with respect to sleeve mountain size deeply, and can't confirm that a suitable armhole is dark according to the style needs of clothes.Make the design of clothes fashion be subject to many limitations.
Summary of the invention
The present invention mainly is that the dark definite method of solution existing in prior technology armhole is impracticable; Can not confirm that a plurality of armholes are worth deeply according to the clothes fashion needs; Limited the technical problem of the development of clothes fashion; Provide a kind of and can confirm easily that the clothes armhole is worth deeply, with the novel armhole tailoring method of the raising that realizes the clothes fashion design level.
Above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention mainly is able to solve through following technical proposals: a kind of novel armhole tailoring method is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
A. confirm armhole girth, chest breadth, across back, shoulder breadth and chest measurement, the armhole girth is set at AH;
B. it is poor to calculate the chest shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned chest breadth and shoulder breadth, the chest shoulder is differed from be set at R, then R=shoulder breadth/2-chest breadth/2; Simultaneously, it is poor to calculate back of the body shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned across back and shoulder breadth, will carry on the back to take on to differ to be set at R ＇, then R ＇=shoulder breadth/2-across back/2;
C. according to armhole wide=half chest measurement-chest breadth/2-across back/2, it is wide to draw armhole;
D. draw two straight lines that wait high, isometric vertical direction, be called across back line and chest breadth line respectively, the distance of across back line and chest breadth line is that armhole is wide;
E. drawing a length from the upper end of chest breadth line is the AH/2 oblique line, and setting this oblique line is L, and the lower extreme point of line L is fallen within on the across back line; Draw a horizontal line and the chest breadth line intersects from the lower extreme point of line L; This horizontal line is the dark bottom line of armhole, and setting the dark bottom line of armhole is d, and it is wide that the length of d is armhole; Then line d, L and chest breadth line constitute a right angled triangle, confirm that just armhole is dark;
F. poor according to chest shoulder, that the back of the body is takeed on is poor, armhole is dark, the wide definite armhole girth of armhole is near the armhole tailoring line of AH; Its upside two-end-point is the point of shoulder point; Lower side point is a constriction point, and the armhole tailoring line is tangential on the both sides outermost points at described chest breadth line and across back line respectively, and dark bottom line of armhole and armhole tailoring line are tangential on constriction point; Described point of shoulder point and chest breadth line and across back line flush on short transverse, and carry out cutting.
The present technique scheme is confirmed armhole girth, chest breadth, across back, shoulder breadth and chest measurement according to measurement result and style needs.Draw chest shoulder difference R and back of the body shoulder difference R ＇ by above-mentioned data.Chest is takeed on difference and the poor bandy degree that has determined both sides, armhole front and back of back of the body shoulder, has promptly determined armhole contour outermost points at.Prove from figure, can the length of line L be confirmed as the half the of armhole tailoring line length by shoulder breadth line, across back line, the determined rectangle of the dark bottom line of armhole and armhole tailoring line.And according to the practical experience of cloth-cutting, this process is suitable.Thus, the staggered position of line L and across back line can confirm that armhole is dark.Therefore under the situation of having confirmed the armhole girth, armhole can be confirmed according to armhole is wide deeply, can obtain=half chest measurement wide according to armhole-chest breadth/2-across back/2 and armhole is wide, and half chest measurement, chest breadth, across back are in the important indicator of clothing style.Therefore, armhole can be confirmed according to the clothes fashion needs deeply easily.
As preferably, the both sides outermost points at of described armhole tailoring line is in 1/3 place highly of chest breadth line and across back line.Because the both sides outermost points at position in the horizontal direction of armhole tailoring line is confirmed by armhole is wide, and the present technique scheme has confirmed that the both sides outermost points in the vertical direction of armhole tailoring line is determined, so this point need uniquely be confirmed according to clothes fashion.
As preferably, described armhole tailoring line is made up of the camber line of plurality of sections different curvature, after this armhole tailoring line is repeatedly measured and adjusted through tape, reaches or near confirming after the length of AH, and begins to cut out.After the both sides outermost points at and constriction point of having confirmed two point of shoulder points, armhole tailoring line, the roughly distributing position of armhole tailoring line just can confirm.As long as just can accomplish the final of armhole tailoring line through limited fine setting accurately confirms.
The beneficial effect that brings of the present invention is; It is impracticable to have solved the dark definite method of existing in prior technology armhole; Can not confirm that a plurality of armholes are worth deeply according to the clothes fashion needs; Limited the technical problem of the development of clothes fashion, realized a kind ofly can confirming easily that the clothes armhole is worth deeply, with the novel armhole tailoring method of the raising that realizes the clothes fashion design level.
Description of drawings
Accompanying drawing 1 is a kind of schematic diagram of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
Pass through embodiment below, and combine accompanying drawing, do further bright specifically technical scheme of the present invention.
Embodiment:
As shown in Figure 1, the present invention is a kind of novel armhole tailoring method, and it may further comprise the steps:
A. confirm armhole girth, chest breadth, across back, shoulder breadth and chest measurement, the armhole girth is set at AH;
B. it is poor to calculate the chest shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned chest breadth and shoulder breadth, the chest shoulder is differed from be set at R, then R=shoulder breadth/2-chest breadth/2; Simultaneously, it is poor to calculate back of the body shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned across back and shoulder breadth, will carry on the back to take on to differ to be set at R ＇, then R ＇=shoulder breadth/2-across back/2;
C. according to armhole wide=half chest measurement-chest breadth/2-across back/2, it is wide to draw armhole;
D. draw two straight lines that wait high, isometric vertical direction, be called across back line 1 and chest breadth line 2 respectively, the distance of across back line and chest breadth line is that armhole is wide;
E. drawing a length from the upper end of chest breadth line is the AH/2 oblique line, and setting this oblique line is L, and the lower extreme point of line L is fallen within on the across back line; Draw a horizontal line and the chest breadth line intersects from the lower extreme point of line L; This horizontal line is the dark bottom line of armhole, and setting the dark bottom line of armhole is d, and it is wide that the length of d is armhole; Then line d, L and chest breadth line constitute a right angled triangle, confirm that just armhole is dark;
F. poor according to chest shoulder, that the back of the body is takeed on is poor, armhole is dark, the wide definite armhole girth of armhole is near the armhole tailoring line 4 of AH; Its upside two-end-point is a point of shoulder point 5; Lower side point is a constriction point 6; The armhole tailoring line is tangential on both sides outermost points at 3 with described chest breadth line and across back line respectively, and the both sides outermost points at of armhole tailoring line is in 1/3 of chest breadth line and across back line and highly locates.Dark bottom line of armhole and armhole tailoring line are tangential on constriction point, described point of shoulder point and chest breadth line and across back line flush on short transverse.The armhole tailoring line is made up of the camber line of plurality of sections different curvature, after this armhole tailoring line is repeatedly measured and adjusted through tape, reaches or near confirming after the length of AH, and begins to cut out.
The present technique scheme is confirmed armhole girth, chest breadth, across back, shoulder breadth and chest measurement according to measurement result and style needs.Draw chest shoulder difference R and back of the body shoulder difference R ＇ by above-mentioned data.Chest is takeed on difference and the poor bandy degree that has determined both sides, armhole front and back of back of the body shoulder, has promptly determined armhole contour outermost points at.From figure, can the length of line L be confirmed as the half the of armhole tailoring line length by shoulder breadth line, across back line, the determined rectangle of the dark bottom line of armhole and armhole tailoring line.And prove that according to the practical experience of cloth-cutting this process is suitable.Thus, the staggered position of line L and across back line can confirm that armhole is dark.Therefore under the situation of having confirmed the armhole girth, armhole can be confirmed according to armhole is wide deeply, can obtain=half chest measurement wide according to armhole-chest breadth/2-across back/2 and armhole is wide, and half chest measurement, chest breadth, across back are in the important indicator of clothing style.Therefore, armhole can be confirmed according to the clothes fashion needs deeply easily.After the both sides outermost points at and constriction point of having confirmed two point of shoulder points, armhole tailoring line, the roughly distributing position of armhole tailoring line just can confirm.As long as just can accomplish the final of armhole tailoring line through limited fine setting accurately confirms.
So that the present invention has is easy to operate, armhole is fixed true science deeply really, can greatly improve characteristics such as clothes fashion degree of freedom in design.
Claims (3)
1. novel armhole tailoring method is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
A. confirm armhole girth, chest breadth, across back, shoulder breadth and chest measurement, the armhole girth is set at AH;
B. it is poor to calculate the chest shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned chest breadth and shoulder breadth, the chest shoulder is differed from be set at R, then R=shoulder breadth/2-chest breadth/2; Simultaneously, it is poor to calculate back of the body shoulder according to the size of above-mentioned across back and shoulder breadth, will carry on the back to take on to differ to be set at R ＇, then R ＇=shoulder breadth/2-across back/2;
C. according to armhole wide=half chest measurement-chest breadth/2-across back/2, it is wide to draw armhole;
D. draw two straight lines that wait high, isometric vertical direction, be called across back line (1) and chest breadth line (2) respectively, the distance of across back line and chest breadth line is that armhole is wide;
E. drawing a length from the upper end of chest breadth line is the AH/2 oblique line, and setting this oblique line is L, and the lower extreme point of line L is fallen within on the across back line; Draw a horizontal line and the chest breadth line intersects from the lower extreme point of line L; This horizontal line is the dark bottom line of armhole, and setting the dark bottom line of armhole is d, and it is wide that the length of d is armhole; Then line d, L and chest breadth line constitute a right angled triangle, confirm that just armhole is dark;
F. poor according to chest shoulder, that the back of the body is takeed on is poor, armhole is dark, the wide definite armhole girth of armhole is near the armhole tailoring line (4) of AH; Its upside two-end-point is a point of shoulder point (5); Lower side point is constriction point (6), and the armhole tailoring line is tangential on both sides outermost points at (3) with described chest breadth line and across back line respectively, and dark bottom line of armhole and armhole tailoring line are tangential on constriction point; Described point of shoulder point and chest breadth line and across back line flush on short transverse, and carry out cutting.
2. a kind of novel armhole tailoring method according to claim 1, the both sides outermost points at that it is characterized in that described armhole tailoring line are in 1/3 place highly of chest breadth line and across back line.
3. a kind of novel armhole tailoring method according to claim 1 and 2; It is characterized in that described armhole tailoring line is made up of the camber line of plurality of sections different curvature; After this armhole tailoring line is repeatedly measured and adjusted through tape, reach or near confirming after the length of AH, and begin to cut out.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2009103102627A CN101716022B (en) | 2009-11-24 | 2009-11-24 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN2009103102627A CN101716022B (en) | 2009-11-24 | 2009-11-24 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
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| CN101716022A CN101716022A (en) | 2010-06-02 |
| CN101716022B true CN101716022B (en) | 2012-06-27 |
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| CN2009103102627A Expired - Fee Related CN101716022B (en) | 2009-11-24 | 2009-11-24 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
| CN103610255A (en) * | 2013-10-23 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece |
Families Citing this family (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102423157B (en) * | 2011-12-21 | 2014-05-21 | 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 | Processing method for business suit clean sleeve cotton strip |
| CN103622191A (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | Original measuring data cutting method for clothes shoulder modeling |
| CN103610252B (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2015-04-01 | 胡亨有 | JF original number tailoring method of clothing raglan sleeve |
| CN106983206B (en) * | 2017-04-17 | 2018-09-28 | 胡亨有 | Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method |
| CN113243596B (en) * | 2021-05-12 | 2022-03-29 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | Drawing method of arc lines of armholes on front piece of women's coat |
| CN114451615B (en) * | 2022-02-18 | 2023-10-24 | 江西服装学院 | Design method of sleeve arch line |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0342535A2 (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1989-11-23 | Ding Shan Huang | Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring |
| CN1451328A (en) * | 2002-04-14 | 2003-10-29 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
| CN1977715A (en) * | 2005-11-30 | 2007-06-13 | 葛俊康 | Method for defining women's coat length, muff height size |
| CN101116554A (en) * | 2006-08-02 | 2008-02-06 | 胡亨有 | Depth automatic cutting method for the ruleless oval-shaped shell frame of the nick |
-
2009
- 2009-11-24 CN CN2009103102627A patent/CN101716022B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0342535A2 (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1989-11-23 | Ding Shan Huang | Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring |
| CN1451328A (en) * | 2002-04-14 | 2003-10-29 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
| CN1977715A (en) * | 2005-11-30 | 2007-06-13 | 葛俊康 | Method for defining women's coat length, muff height size |
| CN101116554A (en) * | 2006-08-02 | 2008-02-06 | 胡亨有 | Depth automatic cutting method for the ruleless oval-shaped shell frame of the nick |
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
| CN102940333B (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2014-06-25 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
| CN103610255A (en) * | 2013-10-23 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece |
| CN103610255B (en) * | 2013-10-23 | 2015-01-07 | 胡亨有 | BZ original number tailoring method of clothing chest expanding piece |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN101716022A (en) | 2010-06-02 |
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Effective date of registration: 20220507 Address after: 223200 south of Huaxi road and east of jingshi'an Road, Huai'an Economic Development Zone, Huai'an City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Huai'an Bairui Automobile Co.,Ltd. Address before: Hu Zhai Cun town Zhejiang city Yiwu province 322009 Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |
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Granted publication date: 20120627 Termination date: 20211124 |