CN109393615A - A kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve - Google Patents
A kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve Download PDFInfo
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- CN109393615A CN109393615A CN201811442166.3A CN201811442166A CN109393615A CN 109393615 A CN109393615 A CN 109393615A CN 201811442166 A CN201811442166 A CN 201811442166A CN 109393615 A CN109393615 A CN 109393615A
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- sleeve
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- camber line
- template
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
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- Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making methods of woman suit sleeve, it includes big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet, big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet use following steps: horizontal on cardboard to draw sleeve width line AB, sleeve height point C is determined above AB line, draw upper horizontal line, sleeve length line, lower horizontal line, sleeve elbow line, whole sleeve mountain line, preceding inclined sleeve line, retrodeviate sleeve line, big sleeve bottom sleeve suture, small sleeve bottom sleeve suture, big sleeve sleeve mountain line, tuck inside the sleeve outside tuck inside the sleeve outside small sleeve suture and big sleeve suture the step of, then dZCcf is big sleeve template, and eabf is small sleeve template；Made of the big sleeve template and small sleeve template made using the method for the present invention after ready-made clothes, sleeve width is of moderate size, and sleeve height is matched with armhole depth, and sleeve yarn is to the yarn in bodice to consistent, and sleeve position is just and personal, full smoother beauty at sleeve mountain.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plate-making methods of woman suit sleeve, belong to garment technology field.
Background technique
Woman suit sleeve is after manufactured goods: A. cap arc line and armhole curve are not inconsistent, and the garment sleeve mountain after causing finished product is not
It is smoother, easily there is pit, is influenced after dress beautiful；B. armhole and sleeve height mismatch, and make sleeve not just, or forward or backward
Pendulum, keeps sleeve not docile with body, sleeve warps outward；C. during template is made the yarn of sleeve and front and back garment piece to different
It causes, the knife of upper sleeve is equipped with deviation, and grand camber line of tucking inside the sleeve is not inconsistent with cap arc line, and especially strip fabric is more obvious；Above problem pole
Big influence product quality.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a kind of designs rationally, tuck inside the sleeve smoother mountain, sleeve and clothing body fabric yarn
To the plate-making method of consistent woman suit sleeve.
The present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
The present invention includes big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet, and big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet use following steps:
Step 1 measures bust girth size, sleeve opening size, and sleeve length size makes front body panel template and rear body piece sample
Then plate measures front body panel template armhole arc length, measure the armhole arc length of rear body piece template；
Step 2 is horizontal on cardboard to draw sleeve width line AB, and the length of sleeve width line AB subtracts 4cm for 2/5ths of bust degree of enclosing；
Determining that sleeve height point C, straight line connect AB, BC above AB line, the length of AC is that front body panel armhole arc length subtracts 0.5cm,
The length of BC is that rear body piece armhole curve is long；
Step 3 crosses the parallel lines EF that C point makees AB, makes EF=AB；Then EF is upper horizontal line；
Cross that C point makees the vertical line of AB and AB intersects at K point, then CK is sleeve height line；Straight line extends CK to D point, makes the length of CD
Sleeve length size, then CD is sleeve length line；
The parallel lines GH that D point makees AB is crossed, GH=AB is made, then GH is lower horizontal line；
It crosses the midpoint of CD and downward 2cm makees the parallel lines TU of EF, making TU=EF, TU is sleeve elbow line；
Front body panel template is placed on quadrangle ECDG by step 4, makes the BL BUST LINE of front body panel and the AK section weight of sleeve width line
It closes, the BL BUST LINE of front body panel template is overlapped with the intersection point of the armhole curve of front body panel template with A point, is crossed A and is pressed predecessor's clothing
The armhole curve of piece template draws camber line AI, then removes front body panel template；
Rear body piece template is placed on quadrangle FCDH, the BL BUST LINE of rear body piece template and the sleeve width of rear body piece template are made
The BK section of line is overlapped, and the intersection point of the back armhole camber line of the BL BUST LINE and rear body piece template of rear body piece template is overlapped with B point, mistake
The armhole curve that B presses rear body piece template draws camber line BJ, removes rear body piece template；
Step 5 takes the length of point L, CL to add 0.8cm for a quarter of CE length on CE, and point M is taken on CF, makes CM=CL；
The midpoint N of AC is taken, straight line connects LN, crosses N work preceding cap arc line ANC, camber line AN in AI and is located at the camber line below straight line AC
The coincidence of N point is crossed, the highest point of camber line NC is no more than straight line LN；
The midpoint O for taking BC, along O point, 0.8cm makees P point vertically upward, and straight line connects MP, crosses cap arc line BPC after P point is made, camber line
BP is located at the camber line below straight line BC in BJ and crosses the coincidence of P point, and the highest point of camber line PC is no more than straight line MP；
Then camber line ANCPB is the sleeve mountain line of sleeve template entirety；
Step 6 takes point Q on AK, makes the length 1.5cm of KQ, takes the midpoint R of AQ, crosses the vertical line that R point makees GH, intersection point V,
Then RV is preceding inclined sleeve line；
The midpoint S of QB is taken, crosses the vertical line that S makees GH, intersection point W, SW are to retrodeviate sleeve line；
Extend VR and camber line AN and meet at X point, draws camber line XQ, keep camber line XQ symmetrical with VX symmetry axis and camber line XA；
Extend WS and camber line CP and meet at Y point, draws camber line YQ, keep camber line YQ symmetrical with WY symmetry axis and camber line YB；
Step 7 takes point Z on AX camber line, and Z point is made to take the length of point d, dV on GV to the vertical range 3cm of straight line VX
For 3cm, smooth picture camber line hands over TU in g point between Z and d, and the vertical range of g point to straight line VR is 2cm, then camber line Zgd is big
Sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Make the parallel camber line ae of camber line Zgd between camber line Zgd and straight line KD, camber line ae hands over KX in a point, hands over GD in e point, straight line
The length of de is 6cm, then ae is small sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Point b is taken on camber line YQ, it is respectively 1cm that the vertical range of point c, b point and c point to WY are taken on camber line YB, then camber line
ZXNCPc is big sleeve sleeve mountain line；
Step 8 takes the midpoint h of de, and point i is taken between h and H, makes h sleeve opening size at a distance from i, i point vertically downward
1.5cm takes point f, the smooth picture camber line between d and f, then camber line df is big sleeve cuff line, the smooth picture camber line between e and f,
Then camber line ef is small sleeve cuff line, and the smooth picture camber line between b and f, then camber line bf is suture of tucking inside the sleeve outside small sleeve, suitable between c and f
Sliding picture camber line, then camber line cf is the outer suture of tucking inside the sleeve of big sleeve；
Then dZCcf is big sleeve template, and eabf is small sleeve template.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows: the length of sleeve width line subtracts 4cm for 2/5ths of bust degree of enclosing in the method for the present invention,
Match ready-made clothes back armhole and sleeve height；The intersection point of the armhole curve of the BL BUST LINE and front body panel template of front body panel template with
A point is overlapped, and the intersection point of the back armhole camber line of the BL BUST LINE and rear body piece template of rear body piece template is overlapped with B point, makes sleeve
With the fabric yarn of forward and backward garment piece to consistent, BPC is smooth, and NCP is smooth camber line, and sleeve mountain is smoother after clothes finished product；Before making partially
Sleeve line, retrodeviate sleeve line after, camber line XQ is symmetrical as symmetry axis and camber line XA using VX, and camber line YQ is using WY as symmetry axis and YB pairs of camber line
Claim, keep small sleeve cap arc line consistent with the armhole curve of forward and backward body, guarantees finished product sleeve docile, do not warp, it is beautiful.
After ready-made clothes made of the big sleeve template and small sleeve template made using the method for the present invention, sleeve width is of moderate size, mountain of tucking inside the sleeve
Height is matched with armhole depth, and for sleeve yarn to the yarn in bodice to consistent, sleeve position is just and personal, full smoother beauty at sleeve mountain.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the method for the present invention manufacturing process structural schematic diagram；
Fig. 2 is the big sleeve template and small sleeve template structural schematic diagram of the method for the present invention production；
Fig. 3 is the big sleeve template structural schematic diagram of the present invention；
Fig. 4 is the small sleeve template structural schematic diagram of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
As shown in Figs 1-4, a kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve of the present invention, the sleeve making sheet include big sleeve making sheet and
Small sleeve making sheet；Big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet use following steps:
Step 1 measures bust girth size, sleeve opening size, and sleeve length size makes front body panel template and rear body piece sample
Then plate measures front body panel template armhole arc length, measure the armhole arc length of rear body piece template；
Step 2 is horizontal on cardboard to draw sleeve width line AB, and the length of sleeve width line AB subtracts 4cm for 2/5ths of bust degree of enclosing；Make
Ready-made clothes back armhole and sleeve height matching；
Determining that sleeve height point C, straight line connect AB, BC above AB line, the length of AC is that front body panel armhole arc length subtracts 0.5cm,
The length of BC is that rear body piece armhole curve is long；
Step 3 crosses the parallel lines EF that C point makees AB, makes EF=AB；Then EF is upper horizontal line；
Cross that C point makees the vertical line of AB and AB intersects at K point, then CK is sleeve height line；Straight line extends CK to D point, makes the length of CD
Sleeve length size, then CD is sleeve length line；
The parallel lines GH that D point makees AB is crossed, GH=AB is made, then GH is lower horizontal line；
It crosses the midpoint of CD and downward 2cm makees the parallel lines TU of EF, making TU=EF, TU is sleeve elbow line；
Front body panel template is placed on quadrangle ECDG by step 4, makes the BL BUST LINE of front body panel and the AK section weight of sleeve width line
It closes, the BL BUST LINE of front body panel template is overlapped with the intersection point of the armhole curve of front body panel template with A point, is crossed A and is pressed predecessor's clothing
The armhole curve of piece template draws camber line AI, then removes front body panel template；
Rear body piece template is placed on quadrangle FCDH, the BL BUST LINE of rear body piece template and the sleeve width of rear body piece template are made
The BK section of line is overlapped, and the intersection point of the back armhole camber line of the BL BUST LINE and rear body piece template of rear body piece template is overlapped with B point, mistake
The armhole curve that B presses rear body piece template draws camber line BJ, removes rear body piece template；
The BL BUST LINE of front body panel template is overlapped with the intersection point of the armhole curve of front body panel template with A point, rear body piece template
BL BUST LINE be overlapped with the intersection point of the back armhole camber line of rear body piece template with B point, make the fabric yarn of sleeve and forward and backward garment piece to
Unanimously；
Step 5 takes the length of point L, CL to add 0.8cm, more easily picture cap arc line for a quarter of CE length on CE,
Point M is taken on CF, makes CM=CL；
The midpoint N of AC is taken, straight line connects LN, crosses N work preceding cap arc line ANC, camber line AN in AI and is located at the camber line below straight line AC
The coincidence of N point is crossed, the highest point of camber line NC is no more than straight line LN；
The midpoint O for taking BC, along O point, 0.8cm makees P point vertically upward, and straight line connects MP, crosses cap arc line BPC after P point is made, camber line
BP is located at the camber line below straight line BC in BJ and crosses the coincidence of P point, and the highest point of camber line PC is no more than straight line MP, keeps BPC smooth； NCP
For smooth camber line, sleeve mountain is smoother after clothes finished product, then camber line ANCPB is the sleeve mountain line of sleeve template entirety；
Step 6 takes point Q on AK, makes the length 1.5cm of KQ, takes the midpoint R of AQ, crosses the vertical line that R point makees GH, intersection point V,
Then RV is preceding inclined sleeve line；
The midpoint S of QB is taken, crosses the vertical line that S makees GH, intersection point W, SW are to retrodeviate sleeve line；
Extend VR and camber line AN and meet at X point, draws camber line XQ, keep camber line XQ symmetrical with VX symmetry axis and camber line XA；
Extend WS and camber line CP and meet at Y point, draws camber line YQ, keep camber line YQ symmetrical with WY symmetry axis and camber line YB；Small sleeve is set to tuck inside the sleeve
Mountain camber line is consistent with the armhole curve of forward and backward body, guarantees finished product sleeve docile, does not warp, beautiful；
Step 7 takes point Z on AX camber line, and Z point is made to take the length of point d, dV on GV to the vertical range 3cm of straight line VX
For 3cm, smooth picture camber line hands over TU in g point between Z and d, and the vertical range of g point to straight line VR is 2cm, then camber line Zgd is big
Sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Make the parallel camber line ae of camber line Zgd between camber line Zgd and straight line KD, camber line ae hands over kx in a point, hands over GD in e point, straight line
The length of de is 6cm, then ae is small sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Point b is taken on camber line YQ, it is respectively 1cm that the vertical range of point c, b point and c point to WY are taken on camber line YB, then camber line
ZXNCPc is big sleeve sleeve mountain line；
Z point and X point are two coincidence points when front cut pieces, rear garment piece and sleeve suture, after suturing sleeve in conjunction with bodice, sleeve
Son is docile, will not put forward or backward；
Step 8 takes the midpoint h of de, and point i is taken between h and H, makes h sleeve opening size at a distance from i, i point vertically downward
1.5cm takes point f, the smooth picture camber line between d and f, then camber line df is big sleeve cuff line, the smooth picture camber line between e and f,
Then camber line ef is small sleeve cuff line, and the smooth picture camber line between b and f, then camber line bf is suture of tucking inside the sleeve outside small sleeve, suitable between c and f
Sliding picture camber line, then camber line cf is the outer suture of tucking inside the sleeve of big sleeve；Then dZCcf is the big sleeve template after the method for the present invention making sheet, and eabf is this
Small sleeve template after inventive method making sheet.
After ready-made clothes made of the big sleeve template and small sleeve template made using the method for the present invention, sleeve width is of moderate size, mountain of tucking inside the sleeve
Height is matched with armhole depth, and for sleeve yarn to the yarn in bodice to consistent, sleeve position is just and personal, full smoother beauty at sleeve mountain.
Claims (1)
1. a kind of plate-making method of woman suit sleeve, the sleeve making sheet includes big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet；It is characterized in that
Big sleeve making sheet and small sleeve making sheet use following steps:
Step 1 measures bust girth size, sleeve opening size, and sleeve length size makes front body panel template and rear body piece sample
Then plate measures front body panel template armhole arc length, measure the armhole arc length of rear body piece template；
Step 2 is horizontal on cardboard to draw sleeve width line AB, and the length of sleeve width line AB subtracts 4cm for 2/5ths of bust degree of enclosing；
Determining that sleeve height point C, straight line connect AB, BC above AB line, the length of AC is that front body panel armhole arc length subtracts 0.5cm,
The length of BC is that rear body piece armhole curve is long；
Step 3 crosses the parallel lines EF that C point makees AB, makes EF=AB；Then EF is upper horizontal line；
Cross that C point makees the vertical line of AB and AB intersects at K point, then CK is sleeve height line；Straight line extends CK to D point, makes the length of CD
Sleeve length size, then CD is sleeve length line；
The parallel lines GH that D point makees AB is crossed, GH=AB is made, then GH is lower horizontal line；
It crosses the midpoint of CD and downward 2cm makees the parallel lines TU of EF, making TU=EF, TU is sleeve elbow line；
Front body panel template is placed on quadrangle ECDG by step 4, makes the BL BUST LINE of front body panel and the AK section weight of sleeve width line
It closes, the BL BUST LINE of front body panel template is overlapped with the intersection point of the armhole curve of front body panel template with A point, is crossed A and is pressed predecessor's clothing
The armhole curve of piece template draws camber line AI, then removes front body panel template；
Rear body piece template is placed on quadrangle FCDH, the BL BUST LINE of rear body piece template and the sleeve width of rear body piece template are made
The BK section of line is overlapped, and the intersection point of the back armhole camber line of the BL BUST LINE and rear body piece template of rear body piece template is overlapped with B point, mistake
The armhole curve that B presses rear body piece template draws camber line BJ, removes rear body piece template；
Step 5 taken on CE point L, CL length be CE length a quarter add 0.8cm, point M is taken on CF, make CM=
CL；
The midpoint N of AC is taken, straight line connects LN, crosses N work preceding cap arc line ANC, camber line AN in AI and is located at the camber line below straight line AC
The coincidence of N point is crossed, the highest point of camber line NC is no more than straight line LN；
The midpoint O for taking BC, along O point, 0.8cm makees P point vertically upward, and straight line connects MP, crosses cap arc line BPC after P point is made, camber line
BP is located at the camber line below straight line BC in BJ and crosses the coincidence of P point, and the highest point of camber line PC is no more than straight line MP；
Then camber line ANCPB is the sleeve mountain line of sleeve template entirety；
Step 6 takes point Q on AK, makes the length 1.5cm of KQ, takes the midpoint R of AQ, crosses the vertical line that R point makees GH, intersection point V,
Then RV is preceding inclined sleeve line；
The midpoint S of QB is taken, crosses the vertical line that S makees GH, intersection point W, SW are to retrodeviate sleeve line；
Extend VR and camber line AN and meet at X point, draws camber line XQ, keep camber line XQ symmetrical with VX symmetry axis and camber line XA；
Extend WS and camber line CP and meet at Y point, draws camber line YQ, keep camber line YQ symmetrical with WY symmetry axis and camber line YB；
Step 7 takes point Z on AX camber line, and Z point is made to take the length of point d, dV on GV to the vertical range 3cm of straight line VX
For 3cm, smooth picture camber line hands over TU in g point between Z and d, and the vertical range of g point to straight line VR is 2cm, then camber line Zgd is big
Sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Make the parallel camber line ae of camber line Zgd between camber line Zgd and straight line KD, camber line ae hands over KX in a point, hands over GD in e point, straight line
The length of de is 6cm, then ae is small sleeve bottom sleeve suture；
Point b is taken on camber line YQ, it is respectively 1cm that the vertical range of point c, b point and c point to WY are taken on camber line YB, then camber line
ZXNCPc is big sleeve sleeve mountain line；
Step 8 takes the midpoint h of de, and point i is taken between h and H, makes h sleeve opening size at a distance from i, i point vertically downward
1.5cm takes point f, the smooth picture camber line between d and f, then camber line df is big sleeve cuff line, the smooth picture camber line between e and f,
Then camber line ef is small sleeve cuff line, and the smooth picture camber line between b and f, then camber line bf is suture of tucking inside the sleeve outside small sleeve, suitable between c and f
Sliding picture camber line, then camber line cf is the outer suture of tucking inside the sleeve of big sleeve；
Then dZCcf is big sleeve template, and eabf is small sleeve template.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811442166.3A CN109393615B (en) | 2018-11-29 | 2018-11-29 | Method for manufacturing female suit sleeves |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811442166.3A CN109393615B (en) | 2018-11-29 | 2018-11-29 | Method for manufacturing female suit sleeves |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN109393615A true CN109393615A (en) | 2019-03-01 |
| CN109393615B CN109393615B (en) | 2020-05-05 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811442166.3A Active CN109393615B (en) | 2018-11-29 | 2018-11-29 | Method for manufacturing female suit sleeves |
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SU1120962A1 (en) * | 1982-12-30 | 1984-10-30 | Всесоюзный заочный институт текстильной и легкой промышленности | Method of making sleeve template |
| CN1391855A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Cutting method for clothes sleeve and cut piece horizontal oversewing stripe |
| CN1451328A (en) * | 2002-04-14 | 2003-10-29 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
| CN105146836A (en) * | 2015-09-10 | 2015-12-16 | 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 | Plating method for suit sleeve strip matching and check matching |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
-
2018
- 2018-11-29 CN CN201811442166.3A patent/CN109393615B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SU1120962A1 (en) * | 1982-12-30 | 1984-10-30 | Всесоюзный заочный институт текстильной и легкой промышленности | Method of making sleeve template |
| CN1391855A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Cutting method for clothes sleeve and cut piece horizontal oversewing stripe |
| CN1451328A (en) * | 2002-04-14 | 2003-10-29 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining size of garment sleeve cutting sleeve cap line type source |
| CN105146836A (en) * | 2015-09-10 | 2015-12-16 | 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 | Plating method for suit sleeve strip matching and check matching |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| 盛男: "袖子的构成原理及版型设计", 《中国优秀硕士学位论文全文数据库（电子期刊)》 * |
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