SU1120962A1 - Method of making sleeve template - Google Patents

Abstract

A METHOD FOR CONSTRUCTING A SLEEVE PATTERN, which consists in drawing an initial vertical line on which the position points of the height and base of the neck, the elbow line and the bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are marked, through the obtained points horizontal lines are laid on which half respectively sleeve widths on the height and bottom lines of the neck, elbow and bottom, then draw lines of the neck, elbow and front edges and the bottom of the top and bottom halves of the sleeve, after which a vertical line is drawn from the top of the neck, which distinguishes In order to increase the accuracy of building a template for atypical figures, after drawing a vertical from the top of the okat, the template is rotated relative to the point of intersection of the vertical with the horizontal line elbow so that the part of the template located above the horizontal line elbow is shifted relative to the vertical by the angle deflection of the longitudinal axis of the forearm with respect to the horizontal line of the shoulder, a portion of the template located below the horizontal line of the elbow, is shifted relative to the vertical at an angle The deviation of the arm in the hinge joint from the predetermined standard for a typical human figure is followed by the final lines of the neck, elbow, and the front edges and bottom of the upper 35 1E and the lower halves of the sleeve.

Description

1 The invention relates to the apparel industry, namely to the design of garments. There is a known method of building a pattern on the sleeves, which consists in drawing an initial vertical line on which mark the position points of the height and base of the okat, lines elbow and bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve, and draw horizontal lines on which half the width of the sleeve on the height line and base of the neck, elbow and bottom, then draw the lines of the neck of the elbow and front edges and bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve, after which the vertical II will be drawn from the top of the neck. However, this method does not provide the accuracy of building a pattern for figures other than typical ones. The purpose of the invention is to improve the accuracy of building a pattern for atypical figures. The goal is achieved in that according to the method of constructing the sleeve template, which consists in drawing an initial vertical line on which the position points of the height and bottom of the elbow line of the elbow and the bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are marked, horizontal lines are drawn through the obtained points where, respectively, half the width of the sleeve is laid on the height and bottom lines of the neck, elbow and bottom, then the lines of the neck, elbow and front edges and bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are drawn, and then from the top After the vertical is drawn from the top of the okat, the sleeve is rotated relative to the vertical point of intersection with the horizontal line elbow so that the part of the template located above the horizontal line is shifted relative to the vertical by the angle of deflection of the longitudinal axis of the forearm relative to horizontal shoulder lines, and the part of the template located below the horizontal line of the elbow is mixed relative to the vertical by the angle of deflection of the arm at the elbow joint from the standard for TKrionoii, the human figures, after 22, draw up new lines of okat, ulnar and anterior edges and the bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve. Fig, 1 shows a double-sided template; in fig. 2 - one-seam sleeve template. The method is carried out as follows. From the point 0 (Fig. 1) of the center of the sleeve, the perpendicular p is lowered along the bottom line of the sleeve, the points L and Hg are placed, and from the point L the line LDND parallel to the forward roll line of the sleeve is drawn. Then, the lower part of the sleeve is rotated around the point Ld by the angle Hg counterclockwise by any method (for example, by the graphic method of the pattern) so that an elbow is formed in the elbow section, equal to the angle of the protrusion (0.75 cm) - up to 1.5 cm for a typical figure. As a result, L = HHHHj-L is determined. In order to ensure that the projected length of the front cut from point H is saved, a segment is laid down on the continuation of the front cut, and the bottom line of the sleeve Hj and Hj HN is drawn. As a result, a sleeve design that does not require WTO, t. e. the so-called technological design sleeves. If a person has a hands-on structure that is very different from a typical one, the cutter must take these deviations into account. Accounting for the angle of deviation of the arm from the vertical at the elbow joint / 3 is carried out similarly without adjusting the bottom of the sleeve. In this case, the angle is determined by the formula ± 1.5 ° - 2.0 °, where I is the new position of the lower part of the sleeve; - the angle between the human hand axes J 1.5-2.0 - the interval of the visual indifference. Accounting for the upper shoulder angle is carried out in a similar way, only the rotation is carried out clockwise relative to the point Ld, not the lower part, but the upper part of the sleeve (indicated by a dash-dotted line). If the figure has straightened arms, then the procedure for turning the lower half of the PN 3120962

kava is carried out in reverse order.

For single-seam hoses (Fig. 2), said operations are performed in a similar manner. In this case, the dart solution in the elbow section is calculated as the sum of the angles 6 and 3 3 with the exception of the interval of visual indifference (1.5-2). With an increase in the width of the sleeve or with the use of a cuff, the parameters of the angles of rotation decrease in comparison with the parameters of the angles On and inversely proportional to the width of the sleeve and therefore are set by the designer. The sequence of building a template for a one-piece sleeve of a thinner. Determination of basic and additional anthropometric measurements of the human body and the initial parameters of clothing. The main ones are known anthropometrics: shoulder girth (0), arm length to elbow (D p.Aoic). arm vertical diameter (3 g “), arm length up to zap (D p) and structural: sleeve length to bottom, increase to armhole width (% increase to armhole width of the total product width), sleeve width at level elbow, bottom and the rate of landing rzgka va. Additional measures include measuring the angles A and A between the anthropome "/ (V4J f trichesic points: humeral, radial and offset to the center of the styloid, defining the central axis of the arm. Moreover, the arm rotates at the humeral and radial points in three planes. Support the surface for the sleeve is the posterior surface of the arm from the humeral and acrominal points to the radial and luteral top to the level of the arm and the front surface to the bottom of the sleeve at the level of the wrist (spine-point). This proves that the axes of the upper and lower parts of the arm and the sleeve Position the one vertical direction. A measuring angles between the beam and the first and / 3 and between the radial styloid points conducted nym special device for measuring, fashion lation and deployment shape of the body surface and garment industries. The apparatus consists of a vertical and horizontal razdvigayuschihs ka

helical wires located along the line of the neck, the depth of the neck, the elbow, the bottom, and the centers of the top and bottom of the arm, the lines of the anterior and posterior rolls. The lines of all verticals are separable, i.e. consists of 4 modules. At the intersections of the vertical and horizontal wires, there are adjustable contacts for the crossover of the wires vertically and horizontally in accordance with anthropometric body points (hands). The vertical connectors are made of textile fastener tape. The length and width of the wire wires are adjusted by special contacts. To measure the parameters of the hand, the device is installed by aligning and fixing with an adhesive tape (adhesive tape) alternately anthropometric points of the hand and the axis of the center of the sleeve and the closure ends of P and P2, M so that they are at the same level with the upper axis of the hand. Then set the required parameters for the width and length of the sleeves. Open the device in accordance with the selected type (single-seam, double-seam, three-seam) sleeves. Builds the U9 TTTtrV / tJ- device. 8o on the plane and aligning the vertical and horizontal lines in accordance with the mesh of the sleeve (Fig. 1 or 2, depending on its type). Definition, deviations from the vertical corners of the OS and D hands. Experimental studies of hose sweeps show that extensive (at least 1000 people) studies of the variability of the parameters L to ft are needed to identify typical varieties and the frequency of occurrence of these characteristics. It was established that the correct position of the central notch and rolls depends on the accuracy of determining the angle oi, and the solutions of the darts and the position of the vertical ones - on the accuracy of matching the angles od and / 3 axes of the sleeve. In this case, the construction of curved lines of the bout and the bottom of the sleeve on a given set. and, accordingly, of any type of sleeves are determined in the process of anthropometric measurements (in this case, a special device, but it is possible with the help of well-known anthropometric instruments: rulers, goniometer). Building a mesh of the sleeve. IT from horizontal and vertical lines of a typical drawing: baseline lines of the okat (O 0 (in Fig. 1, 0 0 in Fig. 2); height lines of the sleeve okat (in Fig. 1, PjP, in Fig. 2); level lines elbow (L, L in Fig. 1,. Fig. 2); the bottom line of the sleeve (in Fig. 1, Fig. 2); the lines of the upper middle of the sleeve (in Fig. 1, 0-M in Fig. 2); the line front roll (HE in Fig. 1, ,, on. Fig. 2); rear roll line (in Fig. 1, Fig. 2); lines of the lower middle of the sleeve (Mr. Fig. 1, P, M, and Vertical grid lines of a type drawing are measured according to the measurements: the calculated height of the border, Op Vopr / 1 2 + H / + Foo1c (Fig. O Voo, 1 / 2B) / 5 П „(фйг: 2) - the position of the level of the elbow is ОL Dr of PPA Ur (1); ОЛ 1/2 Lr, and„ + 2 cm Other (Fig. 2); the position of the bottom line HE AptjK -1,5 Ur (Fig. 1); Dru (Fig. 2); the position of the front and rear rolls 00 0.5 W 0.05 O, -I- 2 cm 00j 2 cm (Fig. 1); 0.0. From the point 0. down the vertical to the intersection at the point P - the rear roll line. From the point O down to the point I - the vertical line of the front roll. 0, 0 Р 1/2 W.O.R - 1/4 P, Pj (Fig. 2 ): Through the points P PPP and P conducts the vertical to the intersection with the bottom line

at the points Mj, M ,, Mj, M.

Build lines okat sleeves. Ddt two-seam sleeves (Fig. 1). On the vertical P o lay off the segment

p About .1-P52

The point of contact between the sleeve and the horizontal P is the point Pj.

PPj 0,5 Shr,

model or by calculation.

RCV Wi / ° 5 Shrchk (Lok) + + 1.00.

.

From the point and the intersection of the foreside line with the bottom line, they lay off a section НН, 0,5Шр „+ + 0.5. To the left and to the right of the P, L, H points, lay the value of the front S roll

RRB RP RP RT

L, l

HH4 HH; 2.5-3.0. To the left, lay RdL.5. RdR2 is connected straight and 0. At the intersection of this straight line with the vertical, a point Рд is put through, the point is passed directly to the intersection with the OR line at the point P. They are connected by a straight line of the points O, - and P. In the middle of this segment, the point P. is set. Perpendicular to the point Oj, it is laid 0.2 - 0.4 cm. The upper part of the sleeve is formed through the points PJ, Ot, Og. Connect the straight line points P and Pg. In the middle of this segment, point 0 is marked. Perpendicularly, point 0 is deposited 1.5–2.0 cm — point 0. The bottom of the sleeve is shaped through the points F,, p, p. For a single-seam sleeve (Fig. 2). (from the shelf drawing) the cut is laid up vertically. A horizontal is drawn through the point Px, on which 0.5 cm is laid to the right, (from the back drawing). Through the point PI - the horizontal, on which the segment L is laid to the left the position of the points O.- and 0l 0 „0g 1/2 0-0, - 2 cm, el .- 1 / l / h Points 1 and Or, PI and Og is connected by auxiliary lines. Conduct bisectors of angles (, 2 zf on which they lay 0 3 1-2 cm f 2-2,5 cm. Point P 6 is located on the bisector of the corner of N PPR. RPB (from the shelf drawing) + PB1. Points P, 6, 1 , 2.0, 3, Pj, 7, P are joined by a curve and get the line of the neck of the sleeve. Construction of the lines of the bottom of the sleeve For the two-piece sleeve (Fig. 1) .Irina of the sleeve is at the level of the elbow and below in the unfolded form take the value of the elbow roll along the line in male products x 1: they are taken to be equal to zero. Therefore, the lower ends of the elbow cuts of the upper and lower halves are in the same HI point, which is obtained the skew of the bottom line, which is built when adjusting the main axial lines. Through the points, H, (, z H,, H Rl Jig H, draw straight lines, continuing them below the bottom line. For a single suture (Fig. 2) The width of the sleeve at the bottom and along the line of the elbow is determined by the model. Shr 0, Front The values found are divided in half and set aside to the right and left of the point, becoming respectively the points M and M (L, L). The points M and P, the joint are straight lines. Adjustment of the axes of the sleeve in accordance with the axis of the hand of a particular human figure. The main feature of the proposed method is to carry out a scientific research institute of operation — adjusting the axes, which can be carried out after the second stage — building the grid. In this case, the construction of the lines of the sleeve and the bottom lines is performed by turning the axes (horizontal and vertical) to the corresponding angles. The adjustment of the axes of the two-seam sleeve makes it possible to exclude the WTO, determine the necessary bevel of the bottom of the sleeve, the correct installation of the sleeve in the armhole along the notches in accordance with the location of the arm axis in the shoulder joint. In order to carry out the method, the upper humeral angle cC is set aside from the locus point on the middle line of the arms of La to the side, which is determined by the corresponding parameter of the body of the person of the century. Then, the upper part of the sleeve is rotated around the point Hg, corresponding to the anthropometric ray point, by any method (graphic patterns). As a result, in the elbow section, a Force Sitku tuck is formed), the parameters of which depend on the width of the sleeve along the elbow and the bottom (the larger they are, the p | olsho P; ICTt dart and the greater weel (Inu can reduce its solution taking into account the amount of gugsi movement inside the sleeve). Similarly, the lower (from the elbow line to the bottom) parts of the sleeve are rotated. This determines the necessary specific shape of the lower edge bevel, or the required increment, by the amount of the tuck determined by the necessity of excluding the WTO sleeve. a turn The template volume moves all the arm slices. no3toMy after the rotation of the upper and lower parts of the sleeve at the corners oi, and I need to perform a conjugation of the sections and their structural design (smoothing in the corners, constructive design along the bottom of the front skid). This is done in a similar way. In this case, a dart 1 1 L Л. is formed in the rear lower section of the sleeve, which is then designed structurally to the forward roll line Л L л L, and for the solution of this tuck -i, g, L is omitted by points MgiMgl -. Accordingly, the position of the point M is changed to M. The length of the front cut PjPj is shortened accordingly by the tipping solution of the back cut. The bottom line is formed by a smooth line through the points M of MjjM m. The back bottom section of the sleeve is M, L, L, F. PendiR lower cut sleeves p1 L, l L M-. Slice stingray R z 0 2 G br). The tuck can be moved to the lower section of the sleeve or replaced with a fit (slush). The proposed method of building sleeves ensures the quality of clothing by taking into account the individual characteristics of the figures.

RF OB 02 02 QS OZ

Claims (1)

METHOD FOR CONSTRUCTING A SLEEVE TEMPLATE, which consists in drawing the initial vertical line on which the points of the height and base of the ridge, the elbow and bottom lines of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are drawn, the horizontal lines through which the half of the sleeve is laid respectively the lines of height and base of the okat, elbow and bottom, then draw the lines of okat, ulnar and front edges and the bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve, after which a vertical line is drawn from the top of the okat of the sleeve, characterized in that, in order to increase the accuracy of constructing a template for atypical physique figures, after drawing a vertical from the top of the okata, the template is rotated relative to the vertical intersection point with the horizontal elbow line so that the part of the template located above the horizontal elbow line-g is shifted relative to the vertical by an angle deviations of the longitudinal axis of the forearm of the arm relative to the horizontal line of the shoulder, and the part of the template located below _{s of the} horizontal line of the elbow is shifted relative to the vertical by an angle of deviation hands in the elbow joint from a predetermined standard for a typical figure of a person, after which they draw New lines of the ridge, elbow and front edges and the bottom of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve.