RU2311862C2 - Method for plotting of sleeve pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves plotting back and sleeve patterns; measuring width of armhole, open depth of armhole, difference between width of strip neck and width of back neck on strip and back patterns; selecting allowances value for plotting of sleeve; calculating values for sleeve round portion; calculating width of ready armhole by reducing width of armhole; determining widening of sleeve round portion by ratio to corrected armhole; calculating angle of inclination of sleeve; drawing straight line from upper point of sleeve rounded portion at calculated angle to vertical plane; forming line of lower end on the basis of the above; forming front lines on upper part of sleeve, on lower part of sleeve; forming elbow lines on upper part of sleeve, on lower part of sleeve.

EFFECT: improved quality of pattern owing to usage of additional design parameters of strip and sleeve drawing.

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Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing sleeve patterns used for cutting clothing parts.

There is a known method of constructing a sleeve template / 1 /, including the construction of shelf and back templates, the choice of values of structural increments for constructing the sleeve, measuring the width of the armhole, constructing the lower part of the arm sleeve by transferring the lower part of the armhole, calculating the height of the arm sleeve, constructing the base mesh of the arm sleeve, the calculation of the coordinates of the auxiliary points, the construction of the upper part of the sleeve ridge, the construction of the base mesh of the lower part of the sleeve, the construction of the front and elbow lines with a deflection of 2 ... 2.5 degrees., the construction of SRI bottom.

The disadvantage of this method is the low quality of the templates, the construction of which does not take into account the structural parameters related to the shelf and back, and the spatial orientation of the sleeve in the finished types of clothing.

As a prototype, a method for constructing a sleeve template / 2 / was taken, including constructing back and shelf templates, measuring the width, choosing the size of the structural increments for constructing the sleeve, calculating the height of the sleeve ridge, determining the width of the sleeve ridge by finding the position of the top point of the front roll line and finding the position the upper point of the elbow roll lines, the construction of the base network of the sleeve ridge, the design of the lower section of the sleeve ridge, the design of the upper section of the sleeve ridge, the design of the front line, Definition sleeve length clearance ulnar line clearance bottom line.

The disadvantages of the prototype are the low quality of the sleeve patterns due to the insufficient number of design parameters of the shelf and backrest among the source data and the lack of operations to orient the sleeve relative to the armhole.

The technical result of the invention is to improve the quality of the obtained sleeve patterns through the use of additional design parameters for the drawing of the shelf and back and the features of the shaping of the armhole in the finished product.

This goal is achieved by the fact that in the method of constructing the sleeve template, including the construction of the back and shelf templates, measuring the width of the armhole, selecting the values of the structural increments for constructing the sleeve, calculating the height of the sleeve ridge, determining the width of the sleeve overshoot by finding the position of the top point of the front roll line and finding the position of the upper point of the elbow roll line, the construction of the base mesh of the sleeve ridge, the design of the lower section of the sleeve ridge, the design of the upper section of the sleeve ridge, design the front line, the determination of the length of the sleeve, the design of the elbow line, the design of the bottom line, according to the invention on the shelf and back templates, additionally measure the depth of the armhole open Gp.otk., equal to the length of the perpendicular dropped from the middle of the segment connecting the end points of the shoulder lines,

at the same time determine the height of the sleeve okata according to

(0.74Gr.otk-12.6), cm,

determine the difference in the width of the neck of the shelf Shgor.p and the width of the neckline Shgor.sp. according to

Δ = Shgor.p-Shgor.sp, cm,

determine the width of the armhole in the finished form by reducing the width of the armhole Shpr. by the value calculated by the expression

Δ ₁ = 0.7Shpr-9.0, cm,

determine the extension of the sleeve ridge with respect to the corrected armhole according to

Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25 Шпр + Птм-3.8), cm,

where PTM - increase in the thickness of the package of materials,

calculate the angle of the sleeve according to

α '= 0.34Δ + 12.2, deg.,

draw a straight line from the top point of the sleeve’s sleeve at a calculated angle to the vertical

and with this in mind, draw the bottom line, draw the front lines on the top of the sleeve, on the bottom of the sleeve, draw the elbow lines on the top of the sleeve, on the bottom of the sleeve.

The essence of the invention is illustrated by drawings, which show:

figure 1 - the construction of the base grid and the design of the lower section of the ridge of the sleeve,

figure 2 - the design of the upper section of the okat sleeves,

figure 3 is a drawing of the sleeve.

The method is as follows.

Build templates shelves and backs with the design of the common line of the armhole 14 ^/ -332-341-352-14 ^// (figure 1).

On the armhole measure the depth of the armhole open Gr.otk., Equal to the length of the segment / 14 ^/// -361 /. To do this, connect the end points of the shoulder lines 14 ^/ and 14 ^// and lower the perpendicular / 14 ^/// -361 / from the middle of the segment / 14 ^/ -14 ^// /. Through point 14 draw a horizontal line.

Determine the position of point 14, located at the height of the sleeve ridge, according to

/ 14 ^/// -14 / = 0.74 Gr.otk-12.6, see

A coefficient of 0.74 shows the experimentally established ratio between Gp.otk and the minimum possible value of the height of the okata two-seam sleeves. The value of 12.6 cm is equal to the average value of the dimensional sign "Arm diameter is vertical" for typical figures.

On the templates, the shelves and backs measure the width of the neck of the shelf Shgor.p. and the width of the neck of the back Shgor.sp., and then calculate their difference according to

Δ = Shgor.p-Shgor.sp.

Measure the width of the armhole Shpr, equal to the length of the segment / 331-351 /.

Determine the width of the armhole in the finished form by reducing the width of the armhole Shpr. by the value calculated by the expression

Δ ₁ = (0.7Shpr-9.0),

where Δ ₁ is the difference between the width of the armhole in the finished form and the width of the armhole in the drawing Spre, cm,

Shpr - the width of the armhole in the drawing, see

The coefficient 0.7 shows the experimentally established ratio between the Spd. and a dimensional sign "Diameter of an arm front-back". The value of 9.0 cm is equal to the minimum value of the dimensional sign "Arm diameter front-back".

The coordinates of the points determining the width of the armhole in the finished form are calculated. To do this, Δ _{1 is} divided in half and find the coordinates of points 332 ^/ and 352 ^/ lying on the horizontals, drawn from points 332 and 352, respectively, according to the expressions

/ 332-332 ^/ / = 0.5Δ ₁ ,

/ 352-352 ^/ / = 0.5Δ ₁ .

Draw vertical to the corrected armhole from points 331 ^/ and 351 ^/ .

The adjusted lower section of the armhole is designed in the form of a curved line 332 ^/ -361-341-352 ^/ .

Determine the extension of the ridge of the sleeve in relation to the corrected armhole according to

Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25 Шпр + Птм-3.8),

where Δ ₂ is the extension of the sleeve os in relation to the width of the armhole in the finished form,

Ptm - an increase in the thickness of the package of materials located inside the ridge (window sill, tears, amplifiers, etc.), see

Coefficient 0.25 shows the distribution between the front and elbow roll. The value of 3.8 cm is equal to the average size of the fit around the sleeve.

Lay the width of the cuff of the sleeve (figure 2) between points 333 and 354, subject to the following conditions:

Δ ₂ = / 331 ^/ -333 / = / 351 ^/ -354 /.

The upper part of the base mesh of the sleeve ridge is built from a horizontal line passing through point 14 and vertical lines passing through points 333, 131 and 354, 355. The upper part of the base mesh has points 13 and 15 at the vertices.

Then proceed to the design of the upper section of the ridge of the sleeve (figure 2).

The top point 355 of the front roll line is connected to point 14.

The top point 131 of the elbow line is connected to point 14.

From the midpoints of the segments / 131-14 / and / 355-14 / restore the perpendiculars / 1-2 / and / 3-4 / (figure 2).

Horizontal lay values of the elbow roll / 332 ^/ -131 / = / 131-131 ^/ / and the front roll / 352 ^/ -355 / = / 355-355 ^/ /.

The upper section of the sleeve ridge is made out in a smooth line through points 131 ^/ -2-14-4-355 ^/ .

Determine the position of the bottom line and the length of the sleeve (figure 3)

/ 14-94 / = Drzap + Pdrzap,

where Drzap - dimensional sign "Arm length to the line of the wrist", cm,

Pdrzap - an increase to the dimensional sign “Arm length to the line of wrist girth”, see

Through point 94 draw a horizontal line.

Determine the position of the line of the elbow / 14-44 /. A horizontal line is drawn through point 44.

The lower part of the base mesh of the sleeve is limited by points 333, 43, 93, 95, 45, 354.

Calculate the angle of the sleeve by the expression

α = 0.34Δ + 12.2,

where α is the angle of the sleeve, deg.,

Δ is the difference between the width of the neck of the shelf and the width of the neck of the back, see

The coefficient 0.34 shows the ratio between Shgor.sp. and a dimensional sign "Half neck circumference". The value of 12.2 shows the minimum value of the angle of inclination forward for a freely lowered arm.

A straight line / 14-96 / is drawn from the top point 14 of the sleeve ridge to the intersection with the bottom line. / 93-95 / or its continuation at the calculated angle α = 94-14-96.

In the lower section of the armhole, the position of point 371 ^{/ is} selected, the position of which affects the size of the front roll, depending on the type of material and the indicators of its molding properties. For example, the distance between points 371 ^/ and 371, equal to twice the size of the front roll, for well-formed pure-wool fabrics, can be 6-7 cm, and for fabrics that are difficult to form, for example viscose, 4-5 cm.

From point 371 ^/ draw a horizontal line / 371 ^/ -37-371 /. Point 37 is located at the intersection with the vertical of the upper part of the base grid in the middle: / 371 ^/ -37 / = / 37-371 /.

Connect point 37 to point 96.

Calculate the width of the bottom / 96-933 / by the expression

/ 95-933 / = 0.5 Ozap + Posap,

where Ozap - dimensional sign "Wrist girth", cm,

Posap - an increase to the dimensional sign "Wrist girth", see

Make up the bottom line / 96-933 /.

Make out the front roll line. To do this, lay off the segment / 451-47 / and connect the points 37, 451, 96.

The front lines are drawn: on the upper part of the sleeve 371-451 ^/ -951, on the lower part of the sleeve 371 ^/ -451 ^// -951 ^/ .

The elbow lines are drawn: on the upper part of the sleeve 131 ^/ -333 ^// -431-933, on the lower part of the sleeve 332 ^/ -333 ^/ -431 ^/ -933.

This completes the construction of the sleeve template.

An example of the practical implementation of the method.

According to the proposed method and prototype, 3 templates were made for the shelves, backs and sleeves of a man’s jacket for a figure of 176-100-76 with the following values for the dimension sign “Chest half-circumference third”: PSGZ - 5.0 cm (1 option), 7.5 cm (option 2) and 9.0 cm (option 3).

Built templates shelves and backs with the design of the common line of the armhole 14 ^/ -332-341-352-14 ^// (figure 1).

On the armhole, the depth of the armhole was measured, open Gp. Equal to the length of the segment / 14 ^/// -361 /. To do this, connect the end points of the shoulder lines 14 ^/ and 14 ^// and lower the perpendicular / 14 ^/// -361 / from the middle of the segment / 14 ^/ -14 ^// /. A horizontal line was drawn through point 14. The depth of the armhole open was:

1 option Gr.otk = 21 cm,

2 option Gr.otk = 21.6 cm

3 option Gpr.otk = 21.9 cm.

Determined the position of point 14, located at the height of the ridge of the sleeve, according to

1 option / 14 ^/// -14 / = (0.74Gr.otk-12.6) = (0.74 · 21-12.6) = 2.9 cm,

2 option / 14 ^/// -14 / = (0.74 · 21.6-12.6) = 3.4 cm,

3 option / 14 ^/// -14 / = (0.74 · 21.9-12.6) = 3.7 cm.

On the templates of the shelves and backs, the width of the neck of the shelf Shgor.p was measured. and the width of the neck of the back Shgor.sp., and then their difference was calculated according to the dependence

1 option Δ = Shgor.p- Shgor.sp = 11-9 = 2 cm,

2 option Δ = 11-9 = 2 cm,

3 option Δ = 11-9 = 2 cm.

Measured the width of the armhole Sp., Equal to the length of the segment / 331-351 /. Armhole width amounted to: 1 option - 14.9 cm, 2 option - 15.5 cm, 3 option - 16 cm.

The width of the armhole in the finished form was determined by reducing the width of the armhole Shpr. by the value calculated by the expression

1 option Δ ₁ = (0.7Wr.-9.0) = (0.714.9-9.0) = 1.4 cm,

Option 2 Δ ₁ = (0.7 · 15.5-9.0) = 1.8 cm

3 option Δ ₁ = (0.7 · 16-9.0) = 2.2 cm.

The coordinates of the points determining the width of the armhole in the finished form were calculated. To do this, Δ _{1 was} halved and the coordinates of points 332 ^/ and 352 ^/ lying on the horizontals drawn from points 332 and 352, respectively, were found by the expressions

/ 332-332 ^/ / = 0.5Δ ₁ ,

/ 352-352 ^/ / = 0.5Δ ₁ .

The values of 0.5 Δ ₁ amounted to:

1 option - 0.7 cm,

Option 2 - 0.9 cm

3 option - 1.1 cm.

Vertical lines were drawn to the corrected armhole from points 331 ^/ and 351 ^/ .

The adjusted lower section of the armhole was designed in the form of a curved line 332 ^/ -361-341-352 ^/ .

Determined the extension of the ridge of the sleeve in relation to the corrected armhole Δ ₂ according to

1 option Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25 Шпр + Птм-3.8) = 0.5 (0.25 · 14.9 + 1-3.8) = 0.45 cm,

Option 2 Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25-15.5 + 1-3.8) = 0.55 cm,

Option 3 Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25-16 + 1-3.8) = 0.6 cm.

Set aside the width of the sleeve ridge (figure 2) between points 333 and 354, fulfilling the following conditions:

Δ ₂ = / 331 ^/ -333 / = / 351 ^/ -354 /.

The upper part of the base mesh of the sleeve ridge was constructed from a horizontal line passing through point 14 and vertical lines passing through points 333, 131 and 354, 355. The upper part of the base mesh has points 13 and 15 at the vertices.

Then proceeded to the design of the upper section of the ridge of the sleeve (figure 2).

The top point 355 of the front roll line was connected to point 14.

The top point 131 of the elbow roll line was connected to point 14.

From the midpoints of the segments / 131-14 / and / 355-14 /, the perpendiculars / 1-2 / = 2.5 cm and / 3-4 / = 2.2 cm were restored (Fig. 2).

The horizontal elbow roll / 332 ^/ -131 / = / 131-131 ^/ / = 1.5 cm and the front roll / 352 ^/ -355 / = / 355-355 ^/ / = 1.5 cm were laid off horizontally.

The upper section of the sleeve rounded was formed in a smooth line through points 131 ^/ -2-14-4-355 ^/ .

Determined the position of the bottom line and the length of the sleeve (figure 3)

/ 14-94 / = Drzap + Pdrzap = 62 + 4 = 66 cm.

A horizontal line was drawn through point 94.

The position of the elbow line / 14-44 / was determined. A horizontal line was drawn through point 44.

The lower part of the base mesh of the sleeve is limited by points 333, 43, 93, 95, 45, 354.

The sleeve angle α was calculated by the expression

1 option α = 0.34Δ + 12.2 = 0.34 · 2 + 12.2 = 12.9 degrees.,

Option 2 α = 0.34 · 2 + 12.2 = 12.9 degrees.,

Option 3 α = 0.34 · 2 + 12.2 = 12.9 degrees.

A straight line / 14-96 / was drawn from the top point 14 of the sleeve ridge to the intersection with the bottom line / 93-95 / or its extension at the calculated angle α = 94-14-96.

The position of point 371 ^{/ was} chosen in the lower part of the armhole, depending on the type of material and indicators of its molding properties that affect the size of the front roll. In the example under consideration, the front roll is 1.5 cm for all three sleeve options.

From point 371 ^/ a horizontal line was drawn / 371 ^/ -37-371 /. Point 37 was found at the intersection with the vertical of the upper part of the base grid in the middle: / 371 ^/ -37 / = / 37-371 /.

Connect point 37 to point 96.

Calculated the width of the bottom / 96-933 / by the expression

/ 95-933 / = 0.5Ozap + Posap = 0.5 · 18.4 + 6.0 = 15.4 cm.

They designed the bottom line / 96-933 /.

Drawn the front roll line. To do this, put off the segment / 451-47 / = 1 cm and connect the points 37, 451, 96.

The front lines were formed: on the upper part of the sleeve 371-451 ^/ -951, on the lower part of the sleeve 371 ^/ -451 ^// -951 ^/ .

Elbow lines were made: on the upper part of the sleeve 131 ^/ -333 ^// -431-933, on the lower part of the sleeve 332 ^/ -333 ^/ -431 ^/ -933.

Comparison of the proposed method and the prototype was carried out by comparing the design parameters of the templates, which are shown in the table, as well as by photographing layouts made using templates.

The table shows the design parameters of the armhole (armhole width Spr., Armhole depth of the openway Gap. And armhole length Dpr.), The same for both methods, and the parameters of the sleeves.

Table
Comparative analysis of design parameters Psgz, cm The value of the design parameters, cm The parameters of the armhole of the mill (common to the prototype and the proposed method) Sleeve Parameters Shore of the sleeve The height of the okata sleeve BOP Spr Resp. DPR prototype the proposed method prototype the proposed method 5 14.9 21 52 18.5 17.5 eighteen 17 7.5 15,5 21.6 54 19.5 eighteen eighteen 17.6 9.0 16 21.9 57.5 twenty 19 18.5 18.5

It can be seen that according to the proposed method, the width of the sleeve ridge is less than that of the prototype in all three sleeve options.

In finished products, this ratio will create more comfortable conditions. Experimental verification showed that the advantage of the proposed method lies in the fact that the angle of inclination of the sleeve forward becomes somewhat larger than the prototype: therefore, the person’s hands get more opportunity to move forward.

Thus, according to the invention, a sleeve template is obtained in which its width is less than in the prototype, which corresponds to the modern fashion direction.

The adjustment of the armhole corresponds to the actual conditions of the shaping of the shoulder clothing mill, in which the theoretical line of the armhole is extended, i.e. the actual width of the armhole becomes less than its calculated value. The proposed method takes into account the distortion of the shape of the armhole and uses analytical expressions to calculate the actual width of the armhole that it will acquire in clothing.

Thus, the proposed method takes into account a change in the configuration of the armhole line, agrees with each other the structural parameters of the armhole and ridge, and allows one to obtain sleeves with the best fit and dynamic fit.

Information sources

1. Unified methodology for the design of clothing (EMKO CMEA): t.1. - M: TSNIITEIlegprom, 1988, p. 41-46.

2. Constructive modeling of clothing: textbook. manual for universities of light industry. / A.I. Martynova, E.G. Andreeva. - M .: MGALP, 1999, p. 54-60 (prototype).

Claims (1)

A method for constructing a sleeve template, including building back and shelf templates, measuring the width of the armhole, selecting the values of the structural increments for building the sleeve, calculating the height of the sleeve ridge, determining the width of the sleeve overshoot by finding the position of the top point of the front roll line and finding the position of the top point of the elbow line, the construction of the base mesh of the sleeve ridge, the design of the lower portion of the sleeve ridge, the design of the upper portion of the sleeve ridge, the design of the front line, the determination of the sleeve length, the design of the elbow line, the design of the bottom line, characterized in that on the templates, the backs and shelves additionally measure the depth of the armhole open Gr.out. equal to the length of the perpendicular dropped from the middle of the segment connecting the end points of the shoulder lines, at the same time, the height of the sleeve ridge is determined by the dependence (0.74Gpr.otk.-12.6), determine the difference in the width of the neck of the shelf Shgor.p and the width of the neck of the back according to Δ = Shgorl.p - Shgorl.sp, calculate the width of the armhole in the finished form by reducing the width of the armhole Shpr. by the value calculated by the expression Δ ₁ = (0.7 Шпр-9.0), cm, determine the extension of the sleeve ridge with respect to the corrected armhole according to the dependence Δ ₂ = 0.5 (0.25 Шпр + Птм-3,8), cm, where Птм - increase in the thickness of the package of materials, calculate the angle of inclination of the sleeve by the expression: 'α = 0.34Δ + 12.2, degrees, draw a straight line from the top point of the sleeve ridge at a calculated angle to the vertical, and with this in mind, draw the bottom line, draw the front lines on the top of the sleeve, on the bottom of the sleeve, draw the elbow lines on the top of the sleeve, on the bottom of the sleeve.

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