CN107581690B - Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method - Google Patents
Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method Download PDFInfo
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- CN107581690B CN107581690B CN201711075495.4A CN201711075495A CN107581690B CN 107581690 B CN107581690 B CN 107581690B CN 201711075495 A CN201711075495 A CN 201711075495A CN 107581690 B CN107581690 B CN 107581690B
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Abstract
The present invention discloses a kind of rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method, including measurement making sheet data, in drawing clothes fashion foundation drawing on cardboard, determine mechanical support point C, carry out to mechanical support point C power decomposition, cutting, sewing.Newborn point is found in the anter of clothes in the method that mechanics decomposes in the present invention, that is mechanical support point, the stress on mechanical support point is decomposed using the branch mode of power, so when anter is sewed, so that the mechanical support point C on anter forms support, clothes will not generate fold after sewing, and can also generate the three-dimensional sense tightened.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to Western-style clothes to cut, making sheet technical field, refers in particular to a kind of rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method.
Background technique:
With the development of fashion trend, Chinese clothes also carry out bigger change, and dress ornament for women is ever-changing, various
Various kinds, although the variation of dress ornament for men variation god daughter's money dress ornament is small, its be even more it is a kind of cut, details and quality chase after
It asks.
Contemporary China, man attend the chamber of commerce, dinner party etc. and are changed to Western-style clothes dress ornament, Western-style clothes gradually from traditional Chinese tunic suit dress ornament
Dress ornament gives a kind of fashion of man, the feeling of elite, and man also increasingly likes wearing western clothes, be a kind of identity as
Sign, the western clothes packaged, in addition to extraneous aesthetical perception accident, even more a kind of embodiment of spirit can be given.But it is in the prior art, right
It is required in the cutting of Western-style clothes very high, it is however generally that, re-packing, it is very bothersome to need, and the Western-style clothes of an engaging body, often degree of needs
Body is customized, and is not batch production, because man is because of its height, weight, the difference of ratio, often to the size of Western-style clothes
It is different, furthermore, Western-style clothes gives people a kind of tall and straight feeling, but the cloth that some quality are softer, is not suitable as in fact
Western-style clothes material, because its flexibility cannot play the role of tall and straight, support.
From the above, it may be appreciated that the production of Western-style clothes is all to need cumbersome step from selection to making sheet, still, Western-style clothes has one
A even more important disadvantage also resides in supportive, can all place shoulder pad in shoulder in many Western-style clothes, effect has been exactly to support work
With, enable user dress it is more beautiful, still, be added shoulder point Western-style clothes, comfort level can decline instead, but lack shoulder pad, but
It is difficult to play a supporting role, clothes itself does not have three-dimensional sense.
Summary of the invention:
It is an object of the invention to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art and provide a kind of rimless Western-style clothes plate-making methods.
In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problem, present invention employs following technical proposals: rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method, including with
Lower step:
Step 1: measurement making sheet data, clothing length, bust, shoulder breadth, collar, waistline；
Step 2: cardboard drawing is carried out according to data measured by the first step in drawing clothes fashion foundation drawing on cardboard,
The anter, rear piece and side waist piece for drawing out clothes, in drawing chest line A, stringcourse B on foundation drawing；
Step 3: determine mechanical support point C, at the half of chest line A it is mechanical support point C on anter, passes through support
Chest line A minutes of anter is line segment a, line segment b by point C；
Step 4: make vertical line h', intersection point h to stringcourse B using mechanical support point C as endpoint, by intersection point h by the waist of anter
Line is divided into line segment c, line segment d；
Step 5: making line of force e to sleeve line using mechanical support point C as starting point, between a length of mechanical support point C and intersection point h of line of force e
Length, the length between mechanical support point C and intersection point h be formed by line of force e and it is upper sleeve enclose to form intersection point D；
Step 6: cutting, anter, rear piece and side waist piece are determined on cardboard；
Step 7: carrying out power decomposition to mechanical support point C, line segment a, line segment d, line of force e and vertical line h', line segment a, power are cut
It using mechanical support point C is still tie point without severing between line e, vertical line h'；
Step 8: the stress of mechanical support point C shifts, then cardboard where line segment a, line of force e is rotated clockwise into distance x
Then cardboard where line of force e, vertical line h', line segment d is rotated clockwise distance x and then positioned, after rotation, on vertical line h' by positioning
Form a notch；
Step 9: according to the resulting shape of making sheet, in cutting matched shape on cloth；
Step 10: sewing, the edge that gap position is corresponded on anter is sewed, anter is narrowed, makes on anter
Form mechanical support point C；
Step 11: anter, side waist piece and rear piece are sewed and connected, there are mechanical support point C, mechanics on anter after sewing
Supporting point C corresponds to human body cream point, makes clothes self-supported.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, the mechanical support point C corresponds to the newborn point of human body, and mechanical support point C may be used also
With are as follows: it determines the pocket line of the front of positive on piece, vertical line is made with the midpoint of pocket line, the intersection point of vertical line and chest line A are mechanics branch
Support point C.
Further, described to make vertical line to stringcourse B using mechanical support point C as endpoint in above-mentioned steps, by intersection point to line
Section c deviates 0.5cm, forms vertical line h'.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, the distance x is 0.2-1cm.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, the distance x is 0.5cm.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, after the 8th step on cardboard respectively along line segment d and vertical line h' formed after lack
Mouthful, corresponding also cut has the notch on cloth, and when sewing, the edge along notch is sewed, then the stress on sewing side is by cloth
The line segment a and offline e implied on material is decomposed, and it is parallel to form a stress, makes the rimless support of clothes.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, when making sheet, the anter of Western-style clothes, rear piece and side waist piece respectively have two panels, cardboard drawing
When only make one group of anter, rear piece and side waist piece therein, another group symmetrically cuts.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, after the tenth step, coat-sleeve is made, coat-sleeve is directly sewed at cuff.
Further, in above-mentioned steps, the width on the sewing side of the anter, rear piece and side waist piece is drawn after measurement
When it is reserved.
After adopting the above technical scheme, compared with prior art, the present invention has the following advantages:
1, newborn point, i.e. mechanical support point are found in the anter of clothes in the method that mechanics decomposes in the present invention, utilize power
Branch mode the stress on mechanical support point is decomposed, then anter sewing when so that the mechanical support on anter
Point C forms support, and clothes will not generate fold after sewing, and can also generate the three-dimensional sense tightened；
2, for the present invention after the completion of cardboard making sheet, the version type of client is it has been determined that can retain, convenient for determining again
System is not necessarily to making sheet again；
3, board making process of the invention is simple, and simple sewing is only needed after making sheet, and clothing apprentice also can be individually complete
At sewing work, technical process very simple also accelerates Western-style clothes speed customized, enhances efficiency.
Detailed description of the invention:
Fig. 1 is that schematic diagram Fig. 2-7 of making sheet foundation drawing is board making process figure of the invention.
Specific embodiment:
The present invention is further described with attached drawing combined with specific embodiments below.
Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method, its in this method most importantly find mechanical support point C, and to mechanical support point
C carries out stress decomposition and rimless support may be implemented so that clothes is formed with supporting point after being made.
This plate-making method the following steps are included:
Step 1: measurement making sheet data, clothing length, bust, shoulder breadth, collar, waistline, according to the different building shape of different wearers
It is customized；
Step 2: z is middle line, herein, the base edition type of Western-style clothes in Fig. 1 in drawing clothes fashion foundation drawing on cardboard
Be consistent, Western-style clothes has six macroplates i.e.: 2, two side waist pieces 3 of piece are constituted after two anter 1, two, i.e., Western-style clothes is left
It is right symmetrical, therefore, in making sheet, it is only necessary to which the version type for drawing the left half body of human body or right half body is with left half body here
Version type is example, then left side is rear piece 2 in Fig. 1, and it is between the two side waist piece 3 that right side, which is anter 1,；Version type foundation drawing be according to
International standard describe, after description on foundation drawing make chest line A and stringcourse B, the determination method of chest line A and stringcourse B, and according to
It is obtained according to international standard, in international standard, the determination of chest line location A is one of the four parts bust length on clothing length direction
The position for adding 1cm is chest line, and the determination of stringcourse B location is to add the position of 1cm in shoulder breadth length, above-mentioned chest line A or stringcourse B's
Positioning is obtained according to international standard algorithm, and a kind of existing technology is belonged to.
Step 3: mechanical support point C is determined, as shown in Fig. 2, being mechanical support point at the half of chest line A on anter 1
C, by mechanical support point C by chest line A minutes of anter be line segment a, line segment b；
Step 4: as shown in Fig. 2, making vertical line h' to stringcourse B using mechanical support point C as endpoint, intersection point h passes through intersection point h
The stringcourse of anter is divided into line segment c, line segment d, it herein, can be by intersection point h since human structurology human body wants an indent
It is moved to the left the general position 1cm.
Step 5: as shown in figure 3, making line of force e, a length of mechanical support point of line of force e to sleeve line using mechanical support point C as starting point
Length between C and intersection point, length and the upper intersection point D enclosed that tucks inside the sleeve by the line of force, the equal length of line of force e and vertical line h'.
Step 6: cutting, anter 1, rear piece 2 and side waist piece 3 are determined on cardboard, after cutting, before obtaining in Fig. 4
The anter schematic diagram of piece；
Step 7: carry out power decomposition to mechanical support point C, the arrow direction shown in Fig. 5 cut line segment a, line segment d,
Line of force e and vertical line h' using mechanical support point C is still tie point without severing between line segment a, line of force e, vertical line h', then will obtain
It with mechanical support point C is connection between plate with three plates of different shadow representations shown in Fig. 6；
Step 8: the stress of mechanical support point C shifts, then cardboard where line segment a, line of force e is rotated clockwise into distance x
Then cardboard where line of force e, vertical line h', line segment d is rotated clockwise distance x and then positioned, after rotation, obtained Fig. 7 by positioning
Overlapping region shown in middle dash area, and after rotation, form notch 4,5.
Step 9: according to the resulting shape of making sheet, in cutting matched shape, rear piece 2 and side waist piece 3 and tradition on cloth
Cardboard shape it is identical, and anter cut after, as 1 shape of anter in Fig. 7, and also formed notch 4,5.
Step 10: sewing, the edge that gap position is corresponded on anter is sewed, during sewing, due to
The both sides of notch are sewed, although shape is close to Fig. 4 after sewing, since cloth has certain flexibility and elasticity,
So sew after actually anter 1 can narrow, in a general case stretch sewing will cause fold, but in this plate-making method before
It is to decompose to constitute by mechanics at the sewing of piece, then the place that should form fold can be by line segment a and the line of force after sewing
E and vertical line h' are decomposed, and entire anter is tightened, and are to be tightened with C point for support；
Step 11: anter, side waist piece and rear piece are sewed and connected, there are mechanical support point C, mechanics on anter after sewing
Supporting point C corresponds to human body cream point, and clothes is made voluntarily to form support；
After the 8th above-mentioned step on cardboard respectively along line segment d and vertical line h' formed after notch, correspondence is also cut on cloth
Have a notch, when sewing, the edge along notch is sewed, then line segment a that the stress on sewing side is implied on cloth and from
Line e is decomposed, and it is parallel to form a stress, makes the rimless support of clothes.
It is reserved when the width on the sewing side of the anter 1, rear piece 2 and side waist piece 3 is drawn after measurement, and according to upper
The left half body of clothes is made in the step of stating, then the right half body symmetrically cut out a garment again, then connects the sewing of piece 2 after two
It connects, forms clothes waistcoat.
After waistcoat is made, according still further to traditional method, collar, that is, coat-sleeve is made, is then sewed and connected.
Certainly, the above is only a specific embodiment of the present invention, be not to limit the scope of the present invention, it is all according to
The equivalent change or modification that structure, feature and principle described in scope of the present invention patent is done should be included in Shen of the present invention
It please be in the scope of the patents.
Claims (11)
1. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method, including previous step below:
Step 1: measurement making sheet data, clothing length, bust, shoulder breadth, collar, waistline；
Step 2: carrying out cardboard drawing in drawing clothes fashion foundation drawing on cardboard according to data measured by the first step, drawing
The anter of clothes, rear piece and side waist piece out, in drawing chest line A, stringcourse B on foundation drawing；
It is characterized by:
It is mechanical support point C at the half of chest line A on anter step 3: determining mechanical support point C, it will by supporting point C
The chest line A of anter points are line segment a, line segment b；
Step 4: making vertical line h', intersection point h to stringcourse B using mechanical support point C as endpoint, the stringcourse of anter is divided by intersection point h
For line segment c, line segment d；
Step 5: make line of force e to sleeve line using mechanical support point C as starting point, the length between a length of mechanical support point C and intersection point h of line of force e
Degree, the length between mechanical support point C and intersection point h is formed by line of force e and upper sleeve encloses to form intersection point D；
Step 6: cutting, anter, rear piece and side waist piece are determined on cardboard；
Step 7: carry out power decomposition to mechanical support point C, cut line segment a, line segment d, line of force e and vertical line h', line segment a, line of force e,
It using mechanical support point C is still tie point without severing between vertical line h'；
Step 8: the stress of mechanical support point C shifts, it is then fixed that cardboard where line segment a, line of force e is rotated clockwise distance x
Then cardboard where line of force e, vertical line h', line segment d is rotated clockwise distance x and then positioned by position, after rotation, shape on vertical line h'
At a notch；
Step 9: according to the resulting shape of making sheet, in cutting matched shape on cloth；
Step 10: sewing, the edge that gap position is corresponded on anter is sewed, anter is narrowed, makes to be formed on anter
Mechanical support point C；
Step 11: anter, side waist piece and rear piece are sewed and connected, there are mechanical support point C, mechanical supports on anter after sewing
Point C corresponds to human body cream point, makes clothes self-supported.
2. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the mechanical support point C corresponds to
The newborn point of human body.
3. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the mechanical support point C are as follows: determine
The pocket line of the front of positive on piece makees vertical line with the midpoint of pocket line, and the intersection point of vertical line and chest line A are mechanical support point C.
4. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: it is described with mechanical support point C be end
Point makees vertical line to stringcourse B, and intersection point h is deviated 0.5cm to line segment c, forms vertical line h'.
5. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the distance x is 0.2-1cm.
6. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the distance x is 0.5cm.
7. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: divide on cardboard after the 8th step
Rear notch is not formed along line segment d and vertical line h', and corresponding also cut has the notch on cloth, when sewing, carries out along the edge of notch
Sewing, then the stress on sewing side is decomposed by the line segment a and offline e that imply on cloth, it is parallel to form a stress, makes clothes
Rimless support.
8. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: when making sheet, the anter of Western-style clothes, rear piece and
Side waist piece respectively has a two panels, and when cardboard drawing only makes one group of anter, rear piece and side waist piece therein, and another group symmetrically cuts.
9. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: after the tenth step, coat-sleeve is made, by clothing
Sleeve directly sewing is at cuff.
10. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: anter, rear piece and the side waist piece
The width on sewing side it is reserved when being drawn after measurement.
11. rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: after the tenth step, collar is made, it will
Collar is sewed at neckline.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201711075495.4A CN107581690B (en) | 2017-11-06 | 2017-11-06 | Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method |
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| CN107581690B true CN107581690B (en) | 2019-04-26 |
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| CN107581685A (en) * | 2017-10-31 | 2018-01-16 | 3M中国有限公司 | A kind of mouth mask |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0112215A1 (en) * | 1982-12-08 | 1984-06-27 | Antonello Montalto | Method of patterning, cutting and making garments and sleeves for the upper part of the body, and garments produced by this method |
| JP2004232103A (en) * | 2003-01-28 | 2004-08-19 | Yamakatsu Senko Kk | Method for making pattern for dress |
| CN1768621A (en) * | 2004-11-05 | 2006-05-10 | 葛俊康 | Treatment method of breast size of women's clothes |
| CN101485500B (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2013-12-25 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN203873069U (en) * | 2014-06-11 | 2014-10-15 | 王凤岐 | Multifunctional dart-value conversion prototype formwork |
| CN104585943B (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-11-25 | 胡亨有 | The former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist |
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