EP0112215A1 - Method of patterning, cutting and making garments and sleeves for the upper part of the body, and garments produced by this method - Google Patents

Abstract

In the width of the pelvis measurement (BA) plus the extra widths required for stitching and buttoning is traced the upper part of the jacket by placing the upper points (A,B) of the armhole contour (4) perpendicular to the pelvis line (BA), and the armhole is extended by a slot (C G D) which is held open with the aid of an attached piece (5) whose upper edge forms the missing part of the armhole contour (4) and which re-establishes the usual chest measurement, half of the jacket thus being produced in a single piece with a marked saving of fabric and stitching length. <IMAGE>

Description

Tracing, cutting and making process, clothing and sleeves for the upper part of the body and clothing produced by this process.

The subject of the invention is a process for tracing and cutting fabric for making clothes intended to cover the upper part of the body such as jackets, coats, vests, etc. as well as the sleeves which form part of these clothes when they have them.

The main object of the invention is to provide a tracing and cutting process which provides, compared to the conventional process, a significant saving in fabric and a significant reduction in the time spent on the execution of the stitches.

In order for the invention to be properly understood, it is necessary to start by recalling what is the conventional method of drawing and cutting a jacket, for example, and a sleeve.

• - la figure 1 est une vue qui montre en réduction, à l'échelle de 1/5 environ, le tracé classique de trois pièces composant une moitié d'une veste,
• - les figures 2 et 3 sont respectivement des vues qui montrent en réduction le tracé classique de deux pièces composant une moitié d'un vêtement, la figure 2 se rapportant à une veste et la figure 3 à une robe,
• - la.figure 4 est une vue composée pour expliquer l'idée inventive sur laquelle repose le procédé de l'invention,
• - la figure 5 est une vue qui montre en réduction à l'échelle de 1/5 environ le tracé d'une veste conformément au procédé de l'invention et qui sert à expliquer la confection de cette veste selon l'invention,
• - la figure 6 est une vue partielle qui montre en cours de confection, la veste de la figure 5,
• - les figures 7, 8, 9 sont respectivement deux vues de côté et une vue de dos d'une veste confectionnée conformément à l'invention, les figures 8 et 9 montrant des variantes de réalisation,
• - la figure 10 est une vue analogue à la figure 5 montrant une autre variante de réalisation,
• - la figure 11 est un croquis servant à expliquer la mise en oeuvre d'un mode préféré de tracé de coupe et de confection, selon l'invention,
• - la figure 12 est une vue analogue à la figure 4 mais se rapportant à une manche et servant à montrer l'avantage du procédé de l'invention pour le tracé, la coupe et la confection de cette manche,
• - la figure 13 est un croquis servant à expliquer un mode préféré de tracé de coupe et de confection d'une manche selon l'invention,
• - la figure 14 est une vue analogue à la figure 5 montrant un aspect plus général de l'invention quand on l'applique à une veste de femme.

During the explanations which follow, reference will be made to the appended drawings in which:

• FIG. 1 is a view which shows in reduction, on a scale of approximately 1/5, the conventional layout of three pieces making up one half of a jacket,
• FIGS. 2 and 3 are respectively views which show in reduction the classic layout of two pieces making up one half of a garment, FIG. 2 relating to a jacket and FIG. 3 to a dress,
• - la.figure 4 is a composite view to explain the inventive idea on which the process of the invention is based,
• FIG. 5 is a view which shows a reduction in scale of approximately 1/5 of the layout of a jacket in accordance with the method of the invention and which serves to explain the making of this jacket according to the invention,
• FIG. 6 is a partial view which shows, while being made, the jacket of FIG. 5,
• - Figures 7, 8, 9 are respectively two side views and a back view of a jacket made in accordance with the invention, Figures 8 and 9 showing variants,
• FIG. 10 is a view similar to FIG. 5 showing another alternative embodiment,
• FIG. 11 is a sketch used to explain the implementation of a preferred mode of cutting and making layout, according to the invention,
• FIG. 12 is a view similar to FIG. 4 but relating to a sleeve and serving to show the advantage of the method of the invention for the layout, the cutting and the making of this sleeve,
• FIG. 13 is a sketch used to explain a preferred mode of tracing and making a sleeve according to the invention,
• - Figure 14 is a view similar to Figure 5 showing a more general aspect of the invention when applied to a woman's jacket.

In what follows, we will consider, as is usual in cutting courses, only half of a garment composed of the front and back to the vertical seam of the middle of the back.

Figure 1 shows a conventional sectional cut in three parts comprising a front 1, a back 2 and an intermediate piece 3 which is located under the armhole 4. Due to their layout these three pieces are not contiguous. In fact, even if their layout allowed them to be joined, we are obliged to space them out in order to be able to cut them properly using mechanical means (band saw) for cutting fabric mattresses. In addition, to join them by sewing, it is necessary to provide an extra width, generally 2 to 3 cm, for the execution of the stitches.

Figures 2 and 3 show two conventional section plots where there is no intermediate piece but two pieces composed of a front 1 and a back 2. Figure 3 relates more exactly to a dress pattern. The invention is also applicable to this kind of clothing. The same observations can be made about the spacing of these parts.

In the three classic examples of Figures 1 at 3, half of the garment is obtained by sewing the three or two pieces and by closing the armhole with a stitching joining the edges AE and BF. In what follows, we will especially consider the two points A, B which are the two upper points of the outline of the armhole.

We will not take into account the pliers which are usual or special depending on the conformation of the people and which the invention does not directly concern.

It is known, moreover, that in the standardized sets of measurements relating to the different sizes of ready-made garments, the most important measurement in number of centimeters is that of the chest measurement which is more simply called the chest. For example, it is accepted for size 48 that the chest (more exactly the half-chest since we only consider half of the garment) must have a value of 54 cm (48 cm + 5 â / for the ease) while the pelvis must have a value of 51 cm. In fact, the chest measurement is always several centimeters higher than the pelvis measurement.

If we bring together three pieces 1,2,3 of Figure 1 by bringing them together to obtain, at the level of the basin, the measurement BA of the latter, as shown in Figure 4, by putting points A and B of the upper limit of the armhole 4 respectively each on a perpendicular to the pelvis line BA, it can be seen that the two pieces 1, and 2 at the front and at the back, partially cover the intermediate piece 3, especially in the upper part of the garment, and that the armhole 4 is greatly reduced in width. In particular, points A and B are closely related. While on the conventional lines of Figures 1 and 2 these joints A and B can be spaced 14 to 17 cm approximately, after bringing together the parts 1, 2, 3, they can be spaced only 2.5 to 7 cm. The armhole therefore no longer has a sufficient width since it is admitted that it must have at its widest place a dimension which can vary according to the methods or the style of the garment but which one can take, here, equal at 1/4 x chest + 2 cm, i.e. for a size 48 = 15.5 cm.

It will be noted that the bringing together of the parts 1, 2, 3 brings out a notable reduction, indicated by hatching, in the surface of the intermediate part 3.

The method of the invention consists in tracing and cutting half of the garment in one piece, inside a tracing rectangle having as width as that of the measurement of pelvis BA more than one side the extra width necessary for the back stitching and on the other side the extra width needed for buttoning; points A and B are obtained from the upper limit of the armhole respectively on perpendiculars to the pelvis line spaced a distance ranging from 7 cm to 0 cm; we create a slit below the armhole, we cut an auxiliary piece and we sew it at the edges of this open slit so as to cause a widening of the armhole and the spacing of points A and B to the usual measurement of the chest.

The method of the invention provides the greatest advantage when the two points A and B are located on the same perpendicular as seen in FIG. 5 where the measurement of pelvis BA is extended, on the right, by 1 cm for stitching and, on the left, 2 cm for buttoning. In this case, the fabric economy is greater than the hatched areas in FIG. 4 since the points A and B are closer together and since the two stitching seams of the intermediate piece 3 with the front and back pieces are eliminated .

According to the method of the invention, the armhole 4 is not drawn along the contour ABCD with the part CD shown in phantom which would result from the junction of points C and D in FIG. 1; the lines AC and BD are extended by drawing an enlarged slot with a lowest point G and cutting along the line ACGDB drawn in solid lines in FIG. 5. An auxiliary part 5 is cut out separately that the then sew in below points C and D at the edges of the enlarged slot CGD after having removed points A and B so as to restore the armhole 4 the outline and the width which it usually has, as shown in double dashed line in the figure 5.

After sewing, the auxiliary part 5 maintains the armhole 4 at the outline and at the width which it has when the three parts 1, 2, 3 or the two parts 1, 2 have been joined together according to the conventional method of FIGS. 1 to 3. The upper edge 5 ′ of this auxiliary part 5 has a contour which restores between the points C and D the missing part of the contour of the armhole 4.

Figure 6 and Figure 7 respectively show the armhole 4 flat, reformed using the auxiliary part 5, and the same armhole 4 on a jacket half obtained by a simple stitching joining the edges AE and BF.

With the exception of its upper edge 5 ′ which preferably reconstitutes the missing part of the armhole, the outline of the auxiliary part 5 and its dimensions are not imposed by the invention. When the upper part, i.e. the chest, of the garment has been traced across the width of the pelvis, it is necessary to return it to its desirable width. The merit of the invention is to have discovered that one easily achieves this result by spreading the two sides AC and BD of the armhole thanks to a slot made in the bottom of the armhole 4 and thanks to a piece 5 sewn with the edges of the open slit and thus giving width to the chest.

Figure 8 shows three alternative embodiments. The slit made at the bottom of the armhole could be a simple rectilinear incision and the piece could be a simple triangular piece 5A drawn in solid line, sewn with the edges of the open slit. One could practice, instead of an incision, a widened slit in triangle and the part 5B could have a substantially trapezoidal outline as drawn in a single dashed line. The slot could be even wider and more elongated and the auxiliary part 5C could have an outline in an elongated triangle descending for example to the pocket of the jacket as drawn in double phantom.

Of course, the more the slot is enlarged until it becomes a sort of opening, the more important the auxiliary part 5 becomes and the more the advantage provided by the invention is lost in terms of economy of fabric and shortening of the bite length.

It will be noted that a simple incision and a simple triangular auxiliary piece 5A, which have the greatest advantage of saving fabric and shortening of stitching, are generally not preferred because of the difficulty of execution of the sting.

A piece 5 rounded in association with a slot with a curved contour C G D as in FIG. 5, allows a puncture in a continuous curve with a relatively large radius. It is preferred for its ease of execution although it does not bring the greatest economy of fabric.

It appears from the above that the contour of the slot and that of the auxiliary part are in close relation, the second having to cover and hold the first at the desired spacing. Up to now, parts 5, 5A, 5B, 5C have been described as symmetrical or almost symmetrical parts with respect to an axis passing through the middle of the fitting.

Figure 10 shows that a fully asymmetrical 5D part can be used. We recognize in this figure 10 the usual parts AC and BD of the armhole 4. In accordance with the preferred embodiment of the method of the invention, the points A and B at the top of the armhole 4 are on the same perpendicular at the BA basin line. From point C, a point G has been made to straight section perpendicular to the line BA and this point G has been joined to point D by a concave curved line on the side of the line CG. The auxiliary part 5D has a corresponding contour with a straight part C'G 'and a curved part G'D'. There is shown in phantom in how the CGD slot is opened to move point B from point A. In this case, only the back part of the garment is moved by pivoting around point G, as indicated by arrows. We could do the opposite and adopt a slit and an insert that would cause a displacement of the front part alone of the garment.

We see that the invention leaves the greatest freedom to achieve the necessary enlargement of the armhole 4. Only two conditions must be met. It is desirable that the upper edge (the CD edge of the piece 5 in Figure 6 or C'D 'of the piece 5D in Figure 10) has an outline which suitably reconstructs the corresponding missing part of the usual outline of the armhole . On the other hand, as we said above, the role of the slot and the auxiliary part is to allow the points A and B to be moved apart until their usual spacing of approximately 15.5 cm which gives the armhole 4 its suitable width. It has been noted in the case of FIGS. 5 and 10, for example, that it suffices to separate the points C and D by a distance of approximately 4.5 cm, by a pivoting movement so that the points A and B further away on the radius are moved away from the desired distance of 15.5 cm.

These figures are only given as an indication since they can be different according to the cut, the types of clothing, the conformations of the individuals, but they are frequently exact. In other words, the auxiliary parts 5 and 5A to 5D must allow an additional opening of the slot with a value of approximately 4.5 cm, regardless of their outline otherwise.

It will be noted that the method of the invention provides also the realization of a collar forming an integral part of half of the jacket. The layout of such a neck 6 has been shown in FIG. 5 in a triple phantom and this same neck 6 has been shown in FIGS. 7 and 8 in the folded down state and in the raised state. Figure 9 shows the neck 6 of the back, in the raised state, making only one piece with the two halves of the garment which are joined by a back seam7.

Reference will now be made to FIG. 11 to explain in more detail a preferred mode of implementation of the method of the invention.

_. We draw a rectangle having a width equal to the measurement of the pelvis BA plus the back seam allowance and the front buttoning seam allowance (3 cm). This rectangle has a height equal to the desired length of the jacket measured. from the base of the cervix, as usual. According to the invention, the upper part of the garment which comprises the top of the armhole is traced using either measured values or empirical values known per se. The use of empirical values gives the usual suitable contour of the upper part of the garment and the use according to the invention of measured values places this part and the top of the armhole inside the rectangle drawn from the measurement. of the pelvis.

The basin line BA and the line EM at the bottom of the armhole are plotted from the measured values. From the top S of the right line, or line of the middle of the back of the garment, we wear on the upper side of the rectangle the length SP equal to 1/6 of chest then on a perpendicular the length PQ equal to 1/24 chest to get point Q outside the rectangle. If there is a collar incorporated; we draw it above the QS line. If there is no neck incorporated, draw the concave QS line (shown in phantom).

From the middle R of the distance between the top S and the line EM at the bottom of the armhole, we draw the parallel RT of length equal to the half-middle measured from the back plus 1 cm. From _T we draw the line perpendicular to the upper side of the rectangle which meets this U-shaped side. From U we carry on this line, inside the rectangle, the UV distance equal to 2.6 cm (value taken empirically as representing the height of the shoulder on the back side). We draw the straight line QV which we extend beyond V by 1 cm (empirical value). We get point B '.

On the same line RT but from point Rl on the left side of the rectangle, the length R1T1 is equal to the half-middle measured from the front plus 1 cm, to which we also add the extra width (3 cm) of front buttoning. . We obtain the point Tl from which we draw the line perpendicular to the upper side of the rectangle it meets in U1 and we carry from Ul, inside the rectangle, the distance U1V1 equal to 5 cm (value taken empirically as representing the height of the shoulder on the front side). On the upper side of the rectangle, from the left top of the / S1, we carry an empirical length of 10 cm increased by the button width to get the point W1. We draw the line W1V1 which we extend beyond V1 by 1 cm (empirical value). We get point A '.

The perpendicular UT meets the line EM from the bottom of the armhole at a point X. From this point, towards point T, we carry the length XY equal to 4 cm (empirical value), to obtain the point Y from which we draw a parallel to the line EM and we carry there, towards the front of the garment, a length of 1 cm (empirical value). We get the point D '.

One proceeds in the same way starting from the point X1 of meeting of ÙlTl with the line EM while carrying first from X1, upwards, a length of 2 cm then towards the back a length of 1 cm. We get point C '.

Points C 'and D' are the lower points of the partial outline of the armhole, as points A 'and B' are the upper points.

We then draw with a gun the curved line B'TD 'and the curved line A'TIC'. These curves form part of the outline of the armhole on the front side and on the back side of the garment.

By proceeding as explained above, it can be seen that the points A 'and B' are close to each other. Depending on the size of the middle and on the position of the bottom of the armhole on a person, according to also the empirical values in particular those of the height of the shoulder, which one can correct according to the styles and according to the people, points A 'and B' are on a same perpendicular to the line EM or on two separate perpendiculars spaced at most 7 cm.

In FIG. 11, the points A 'and B' not being spaced apart, a single equidistant line is drawn perpendicular to the lines EM and BA, which meets the line BA at a point N.

Below the points C'D ', an open slit with a rounded contour C'GD' is drawn allowing easy stitching in a continuous curved line.

The outline of an auxiliary part 5 is drawn separately by giving it an upper edge 8 curved so as to reconstitute the missing outline of the armhole between the points C ', D', after their separation, this edge 8 having to pass through the point H where the equidistant perpendicular from A ', B' meets the line EM.

The piece 5 is given sufficient width to spread the slot C'GD 'in the following manner. Taking point N as the center of rotation, rotate point D 'to the right to D over a distance D'D of about 2 cm and rotate point C' to the left to C on a distance of about 2.5 cm. After cutting, the sewing of piece 5 on the edges of the slot C'GD 'will keep the points C'D' in the separated position C, D. As a result, points A 'and B' will also be moved apart by pivoting and will be at A and B, at their usual spacing.

The position of the center of rotation calls for the following remark. It was said above, with reference to FIG. 10, that the slot is opened by pivoting around the point G which is the lowest point of this slot. The slot always tends to open around this point G. The flexibility of the fabric nevertheless makes it possible to spread the points A'B '(Figure 11) to put them in A and B respectively on a circle whose center is not the point G. Of course, this change of pivot center is only possible when the preferred point N is not very far from the low point G of the slot and when the spacing in AB of the points A'B 'remains within the limits defined above. Apart from these conditions, the flexibility of the fabric would no longer allow this change of center and pivot radius.

If desired, we also draw a collar 6 which will be an integral part of this half of the garment. The outline of this collar 6 as well as the outline of the edge of the garment and the edge of the armhole giving the points A ', B', C ', D' are made according to the measurements and according to the conventional rules which are not not affected by the invention.

It was noted with surprise that a garment thus cut, sewn, in two main parts only joined by a back stitching 7 (Figure 9), with a collar 6 incorporated if desired, with two auxiliary parts 5 under the arm , fits perfectly on the wearer and adjusts more easily, using the usual pliers than conventional cut clothes.

The method of the invention also applies to the production of the sleeves of the garment. The body of the latter conventionally consists of two pieces of front 1 and back 2 as can be seen in Figures 2, 3, to limit an armhole contour ACDB; similarly, a conventional sleeve (FIG. 12) consists of two distinct parts, a part 9 which constitutes the external side of the sleeve and a part 10 which constitutes the internal side. Each of these parts 9, 10 has an upper edge 11, 12 respectively which is given a contour which adjusts with that of the armhole 4 of a jacket finished like that of Figure 7. By bringing as close as it is possible without overlapping the two classic parts 9, 10, they can be written in a rectangle trace on figure 12 Where these two parts are drawn in solid line. If, as we did for the jacket parts, we bring these two parts 9, 10 closer together, by making them touch one end 13 of their respective lower edges 14, 15 and by rotating them around this point 13 so that there is no longer any gap 16 between them, we see that the rectangle that contains them can be much narrower. In Figure 12, there is shown in phantom, with an offset to avoid superposition of the lines, the two parts brought together without gap, partially overlapping, and constituting only a new piece 16 without stitching. The upper edges 11, 12 then meet at a point of intersection 17.

This part 16 is drawn in solid lines in FIG. 13 inside a rectangle which may have a width of only 30 cm and a height of 72 cm equal to the length of the sleeve. The lower edge 14.15 of this single piece of sleeve 16 has the usual size of the bottom of the sleeve but the upper part is no longer wide enough since the upper edge 18 is only part of the outline of the armhole .

According to the invention, from the point of intersection 17 of the old edges 11 _; 12, we trace and cut a slit 19 which is then opened, in order to separate the two upper parts and to reconstruct the contour of the edges 11, 12. Preferably, we trace by the point of intersection 17 a perpendicular has a small side of the exinscribed rectangle and we take a point M about a third from the bottom of the sleeve. The slot 19 is opened from the point M taken as the pivot center so as to move to the right a point E 'close to the point of intersection 17 to E and to move to the left a point F' close to the point from intersection 17 to F. Points E and F are kept apart using an insert 20 cut separately. This piece 20 has a width L which is equal to 1/4 of the measurement of the pelvis. Its upper edge 21 is traced to reconstruct the missing outline E, F of the missing outline of the armhole. The rest 22 of its perimeter, as well as the layout of the slot 19, are chosen so as to allow an easy puncture along a continuous curve. The value L results from an empirical observation; it can be changed.

It is therefore clear that the same procedure is applied to each sleeve as to the two halves of the body of the garment.

The invention has so far been explained, with reference to the making of a man's garment in which the dimension measured at the pelvis has been taken as the smallest width of the rectangle of fabric, the upper part then being enlarged as explained by means of a slot which is opened and which is kept open by means of an insert. This way of doing things is justified because, in humans, the dimension measured in the pelvis is commonly the lowest dimension. It is otherwise in women whose size is much more marked than that of man and whose pelvis is, on the contrary, wider.

When the invention is applied to a female garment (jacket, coat, etc.), the dimension which allows the greatest economy of fabric, because it allows the smallest width of the tracing rectangle, is the dimension measured at the waist. FIG. 14 shows a tracing rectangle whose width TA is that of the measurement of the size of a woman increased by the seam and buttoning wideners if necessary. We widen the upper part to give it the necessary dimension for the chest by proceeding as already explained, by means of a slot C GD which extends the two sides AC and BD of the armhole and by bringing a piece there. 5 of enlargement drawn in dashed line.

We widen the lower part to give it the necessary dimension at the hips by proceeding conformed ment to the invention, that is to say by practicing a slit 23 which starts from the lower edge of the garment and which approaches more or less the size TA, according to the exact conformation of the person. This slot is moved aside and it is kept in the separated state thanks to an insert 24 drawn in phantom which is sewn at the edges of the slot 23. The latter could be rectilinear. In order to make the stitching easier, it is preferable to give the slit a rounded outline in the area of its interruption 25.

Claims (11)

1. A method of tracing, cutting and making a piece of clothing having a length and dimensions in transverse direction of different values, one of which has a minimum value, characterized in that this piece is contained in a tracing rectangle having as width said minimum width (BA, 14 + 15, TA), an open slit (CGD, 19, 23) is made in the parts of the part which must have a larger dimension, or opens this slit up to 'to obtain the desired dimension and it is kept open by sewing an insert (5, 20, 24). 2. Method according to claim 1 applied to a piece of clothing having an upper part which comprises an outline of a armhole of determined width and a lower part of determined width, characterized in that this part is made to contain in a rectangle having as width, said determined width of the lower part by removing part of the armhole contour, a slot is created at the bottom of the partial armhole contour, an auxiliary part is cut having an upper edge which reconstitutes the part removed from the contour of the armhole, we open this slit and we make it hold open by means of this auxiliary piece which we sew with the edges of the open slit in order to reconstitute the entire outline of the armhole and to restore its width determined. 3. Method according to claim 2 implemented for one half of a jacket having in its upper part an armhole contour having two upper points (A, B) to join and having a lower part of width defined by the measurement of pelvis, characterized in that the necessary widths for sewing and buttoning are added to said pelvic width measurement, a rectangle is drawn having the height of that of the jacket and as width this increased pelvic width measurement of the widenings, the upper part is plotted and the partial outline of the armhole respectively from the back side and the front side of this rectangle to obtain two points (A ', B') located on perpendiculars to the basin line spaced by a distance from 7 cm to 0 cm, this partial contour being limited by upper points (A ', B') which become points (A, B) after separation and by lower points (C ', D'). 4. Method according to claim 3, according to which the lines of the pelvis (BA) and the bottom of the armhole (EM) are drawn in the rectangle, characterized in that the upper part and the partial contour (A ') are drawn TIC '- B'TD') of the armhole from lines (RT - R1T1) parallel to the bottom line of armhole (EM) midway between it and the upper side of the rectangle. 5. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that the slot is given a contour (C'GD ') in a curved line allowing easy pricking in a continuous curved line. 6. Method according to any one of claims 3, 4 characterized in that the points (A'B ') of the apex of the reduced contour of the armhole are drawn at an equal distance perpendicular to the basin line (BA) that it meets at a pivot point (N) and the slot (C'GD ') is opened by spreading the lower points (C', D ') of the partial contour by pivoting around the pivot point (N). 7. Method according to claim 6 characterized in that the lower point (C ') of the partial contour located on the front side of the garment is pivoted by a distance of approximately 2 cm and the lower point (D') of the partial contour located on the back side of the garment from a distance of approximately 2.5 cm, giving the auxiliary part (5) the corresponding width. 8. Method according to claim 1 implemented for a sleeve of a garment having an upper part limiting a fitting contour (11, 12) and a lower part having as determined width the measurement of bottom of sleeve, characterized in that a rectangle is drawn having the width of this measurement at the bottom of the sleeve, the upper part is drawn inside this rectangle by obtaining a partial outline of armhole having a point of intersection (17 ), we trace the slit from this point of intersection (17). 9. The method of claim 8 characterized in that the slot is opened by pivoting from a point (M) located on a perpendicular to the short sides of the rectangle passing through the point of intersection (17), about one third from this perpendicular from the bottom of the sleeve. 10. Method according to claim 9 characterized in that one moves on one side a point (E ') near the crossing point (17) and on the opposite side a point (F') near the crossing point (17) and maintaining this spacing of the slot using a piece (20) having a width (L) equal to about 1/4 of the pelvic measurement of the garment for which this sleeve is intended. 11. Method according to claim 1 applied to a piece of female clothing characterized in that the tracing rectangle is given a width equal to the measurement of the size (TA) increased by the seam and buttoning widths and is widened to the times the upper part to give it the dimension measured at the chest and the lower part to give it the dimension measured at the pelvis by means of two slots (C GD and 23) which are made to hold open each one respectively using 'a patch and sewn (5, 24) at the edges of the open slot.

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