EP0112215A1 - Verfahren zum Zeichnen, Schneiden und Herstellen von Bekleidungsstücken und Ärmeln die für den Oberkörper bestimmt sind, und so hergestellte Bekleidungsstücke - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Zeichnen, Schneiden und Herstellen von Bekleidungsstücken und Ärmeln die für den Oberkörper bestimmt sind, und so hergestellte Bekleidungsstücke Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0112215A1
EP0112215A1 EP19830402264 EP83402264A EP0112215A1 EP 0112215 A1 EP0112215 A1 EP 0112215A1 EP 19830402264 EP19830402264 EP 19830402264 EP 83402264 A EP83402264 A EP 83402264A EP 0112215 A1 EP0112215 A1 EP 0112215A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
armhole
width
point
contour
rectangle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP19830402264
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Antonello Montalto
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR8220566A external-priority patent/FR2537408B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR8300179A external-priority patent/FR2539008B1/fr
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0112215A1 publication Critical patent/EP0112215A1/de
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a process for tracing and cutting fabric for making clothes intended to cover the upper part of the body such as jackets, coats, vests, etc. as well as the sleeves which form part of these clothes when they have them.
  • the main object of the invention is to provide a tracing and cutting process which provides, compared to the conventional process, a significant saving in fabric and a significant reduction in the time spent on the execution of the stitches.
  • Figure 1 shows a conventional sectional cut in three parts comprising a front 1, a back 2 and an intermediate piece 3 which is located under the armhole 4. Due to their layout these three pieces are not contiguous. In fact, even if their layout allowed them to be joined, we are obliged to space them out in order to be able to cut them properly using mechanical means (band saw) for cutting fabric mattresses. In addition, to join them by sewing, it is necessary to provide an extra width, generally 2 to 3 cm, for the execution of the stitches.
  • Figures 2 and 3 show two conventional section plots where there is no intermediate piece but two pieces composed of a front 1 and a back 2.
  • Figure 3 relates more exactly to a dress pattern.
  • the invention is also applicable to this kind of clothing. The same observations can be made about the spacing of these parts.
  • the most important measurement in number of centimeters is that of the chest measurement which is more simply called the chest.
  • the chest it is accepted for size 48 that the chest (more exactly the half-chest since we only consider half of the garment) must have a value of 54 cm (48 cm + 5 â / for the ease) while the pelvis must have a value of 51 cm.
  • the chest measurement is always several centimeters higher than the pelvis measurement.
  • the method of the invention consists in tracing and cutting half of the garment in one piece, inside a tracing rectangle having as width as that of the measurement of pelvis BA more than one side the extra width necessary for the back stitching and on the other side the extra width needed for buttoning; points A and B are obtained from the upper limit of the armhole respectively on perpendiculars to the pelvis line spaced a distance ranging from 7 cm to 0 cm; we create a slit below the armhole, we cut an auxiliary piece and we sew it at the edges of this open slit so as to cause a widening of the armhole and the spacing of points A and B to the usual measurement of the chest.
  • the method of the invention provides the greatest advantage when the two points A and B are located on the same perpendicular as seen in FIG. 5 where the measurement of pelvis BA is extended, on the right, by 1 cm for stitching and, on the left, 2 cm for buttoning.
  • the fabric economy is greater than the hatched areas in FIG. 4 since the points A and B are closer together and since the two stitching seams of the intermediate piece 3 with the front and back pieces are eliminated .
  • the armhole 4 is not drawn along the contour ABCD with the part CD shown in phantom which would result from the junction of points C and D in FIG. 1; the lines AC and BD are extended by drawing an enlarged slot with a lowest point G and cutting along the line ACGDB drawn in solid lines in FIG. 5.
  • An auxiliary part 5 is cut out separately that the then sew in below points C and D at the edges of the enlarged slot CGD after having removed points A and B so as to restore the armhole 4 the outline and the width which it usually has, as shown in double dashed line in the figure 5.
  • the auxiliary part 5 maintains the armhole 4 at the outline and at the width which it has when the three parts 1, 2, 3 or the two parts 1, 2 have been joined together according to the conventional method of FIGS. 1 to 3.
  • the upper edge 5 ′ of this auxiliary part 5 has a contour which restores between the points C and D the missing part of the contour of the armhole 4.
  • Figure 6 and Figure 7 respectively show the armhole 4 flat, reformed using the auxiliary part 5, and the same armhole 4 on a jacket half obtained by a simple stitching joining the edges AE and BF.
  • the outline of the auxiliary part 5 and its dimensions are not imposed by the invention.
  • the upper part, i.e. the chest, of the garment has been traced across the width of the pelvis, it is necessary to return it to its desirable width.
  • the merit of the invention is to have discovered that one easily achieves this result by spreading the two sides AC and BD of the armhole thanks to a slot made in the bottom of the armhole 4 and thanks to a piece 5 sewn with the edges of the open slit and thus giving width to the chest.
  • Figure 8 shows three alternative embodiments.
  • the slit made at the bottom of the armhole could be a simple rectilinear incision and the piece could be a simple triangular piece 5A drawn in solid line, sewn with the edges of the open slit.
  • the slot could be even wider and more elongated and the auxiliary part 5C could have an outline in an elongated triangle descending for example to the pocket of the jacket as drawn in double phantom.
  • a piece 5 rounded in association with a slot with a curved contour C G D as in FIG. 5, allows a puncture in a continuous curve with a relatively large radius. It is preferred for its ease of execution although it does not bring the greatest economy of fabric.
  • Figure 10 shows that a fully asymmetrical 5D part can be used.
  • the points A and B at the top of the armhole 4 are on the same perpendicular at the BA basin line.
  • a point G has been made to straight section perpendicular to the line BA and this point G has been joined to point D by a concave curved line on the side of the line CG.
  • the auxiliary part 5D has a corresponding contour with a straight part C'G 'and a curved part G'D'.
  • the CGD slot is opened to move point B from point A. In this case, only the back part of the garment is moved by pivoting around point G, as indicated by arrows. We could do the opposite and adopt a slit and an insert that would cause a displacement of the front part alone of the garment.
  • the invention leaves the greatest freedom to achieve the necessary enlargement of the armhole 4. Only two conditions must be met. It is desirable that the upper edge (the CD edge of the piece 5 in Figure 6 or C'D 'of the piece 5D in Figure 10) has an outline which suitably reconstructs the corresponding missing part of the usual outline of the armhole .
  • the role of the slot and the auxiliary part is to allow the points A and B to be moved apart until their usual spacing of approximately 15.5 cm which gives the armhole 4 its suitable width. It has been noted in the case of FIGS. 5 and 10, for example, that it suffices to separate the points C and D by a distance of approximately 4.5 cm, by a pivoting movement so that the points A and B further away on the radius are moved away from the desired distance of 15.5 cm.
  • the method of the invention provides also the realization of a collar forming an integral part of half of the jacket.
  • the layout of such a neck 6 has been shown in FIG. 5 in a triple phantom and this same neck 6 has been shown in FIGS. 7 and 8 in the folded down state and in the raised state.
  • Figure 9 shows the neck 6 of the back, in the raised state, making only one piece with the two halves of the garment which are joined by a back seam7.
  • FIG. 11 to explain in more detail a preferred mode of implementation of the method of the invention.
  • the upper part of the garment which comprises the top of the armhole is traced using either measured values or empirical values known per se. The use of empirical values gives the usual suitable contour of the upper part of the garment and the use according to the invention of measured values places this part and the top of the armhole inside the rectangle drawn from the measurement. of the pelvis.
  • the basin line BA and the line EM at the bottom of the armhole are plotted from the measured values. From the top S of the right line, or line of the middle of the back of the garment, we wear on the upper side of the rectangle the length SP equal to 1/6 of chest then on a perpendicular the length PQ equal to 1/24 chest to get point Q outside the rectangle. If there is a collar incorporated; we draw it above the QS line. If there is no neck incorporated, draw the concave QS line (shown in phantom).
  • the length R1T1 is equal to the half-middle measured from the front plus 1 cm, to which we also add the extra width (3 cm) of front buttoning. .
  • Tl the point from which we draw the line perpendicular to the upper side of the rectangle it meets in U1 and we carry from Ul, inside the rectangle, the distance U1V1 equal to 5 cm (value taken empirically as representing the height of the shoulder on the front side).
  • U1V1 On the upper side of the rectangle, from the left top of the / S1, we carry an empirical length of 10 cm increased by the button width to get the point W1.
  • We draw the line W1V1 which we extend beyond V1 by 1 cm (empirical value).
  • point A '
  • the perpendicular UT meets the line EM from the bottom of the armhole at a point X. From this point, towards point T, we carry the length XY equal to 4 cm (empirical value), to obtain the point Y from which we draw a parallel to the line EM and we carry there, towards the front of the garment, a length of 1 cm (empirical value). We get the point D '.
  • Points C 'and D' are the lower points of the partial outline of the armhole, as points A 'and B' are the upper points.
  • points A 'and B' are close to each other.
  • points A 'and B' are on a same perpendicular to the line EM or on two separate perpendiculars spaced at most 7 cm.
  • auxiliary part 5 The outline of an auxiliary part 5 is drawn separately by giving it an upper edge 8 curved so as to reconstitute the missing outline of the armhole between the points C ', D', after their separation, this edge 8 having to pass through the point H where the equidistant perpendicular from A ', B' meets the line EM.
  • the piece 5 is given sufficient width to spread the slot C'GD 'in the following manner. Taking point N as the center of rotation, rotate point D 'to the right to D over a distance D'D of about 2 cm and rotate point C' to the left to C on a distance of about 2.5 cm. After cutting, the sewing of piece 5 on the edges of the slot C'GD 'will keep the points C'D' in the separated position C, D. As a result, points A 'and B' will also be moved apart by pivoting and will be at A and B, at their usual spacing.
  • the method of the invention also applies to the production of the sleeves of the garment.
  • the body of the latter conventionally consists of two pieces of front 1 and back 2 as can be seen in Figures 2, 3, to limit an armhole contour ACDB; similarly, a conventional sleeve (FIG. 12) consists of two distinct parts, a part 9 which constitutes the external side of the sleeve and a part 10 which constitutes the internal side.
  • Each of these parts 9, 10 has an upper edge 11, 12 respectively which is given a contour which adjusts with that of the armhole 4 of a jacket finished like that of Figure 7.
  • This part 16 is drawn in solid lines in FIG. 13 inside a rectangle which may have a width of only 30 cm and a height of 72 cm equal to the length of the sleeve.
  • the lower edge 14.15 of this single piece of sleeve 16 has the usual size of the bottom of the sleeve but the upper part is no longer wide enough since the upper edge 18 is only part of the outline of the armhole .
  • a slit 19 which is then opened, in order to separate the two upper parts and to reconstruct the contour of the edges 11, 12.
  • a perpendicular has a small side of the exinscribed rectangle and we take a point M about a third from the bottom of the sleeve.
  • the slot 19 is opened from the point M taken as the pivot center so as to move to the right a point E 'close to the point of intersection 17 to E and to move to the left a point F' close to the point from intersection 17 to F. Points E and F are kept apart using an insert 20 cut separately.
  • This piece 20 has a width L which is equal to 1/4 of the measurement of the pelvis. Its upper edge 21 is traced to reconstruct the missing outline E, F of the missing outline of the armhole. The rest 22 of its perimeter, as well as the layout of the slot 19, are chosen so as to allow an easy puncture along a continuous curve.
  • the value L results from an empirical observation; it can be changed.
  • FIG. 14 shows a tracing rectangle whose width TA is that of the measurement of the size of a woman increased by the seam and buttoning wideners if necessary.
  • TA width of the measurement of the size of a woman increased by the seam and buttoning wideners if necessary.
  • We widen the upper part to give it the necessary dimension for the chest by proceeding as already explained, by means of a slot C GD which extends the two sides AC and BD of the armhole and by bringing a piece there. 5 of enlargement drawn in dashed line.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
EP19830402264 1982-12-08 1983-11-23 Verfahren zum Zeichnen, Schneiden und Herstellen von Bekleidungsstücken und Ärmeln die für den Oberkörper bestimmt sind, und so hergestellte Bekleidungsstücke Ceased EP0112215A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8220566 1982-12-08
FR8220566A FR2537408B1 (fr) 1982-12-08 1982-12-08 Procede de trace, de coupe et de confection, de vetements et de manches pour la partie superieure du corps et vetements realises par ce procede
FR8300179A FR2539008B1 (fr) 1983-01-07 1983-01-07 Nouveau procede de confection de vetement ou d'enveloppes cintres ou galbes au moyen de pivots
FR8300179 1983-01-07

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0112215A1 true EP0112215A1 (de) 1984-06-27

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EP19830402264 Ceased EP0112215A1 (de) 1982-12-08 1983-11-23 Verfahren zum Zeichnen, Schneiden und Herstellen von Bekleidungsstücken und Ärmeln die für den Oberkörper bestimmt sind, und so hergestellte Bekleidungsstücke

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EP (1) EP0112215A1 (de)

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103767207A (zh) * 2014-01-06 2014-05-07 南通纺织职业技术学院 一种服装袖子结构及其成型方法
CN107581690A (zh) * 2017-11-06 2018-01-16 桐乡市大唐皮草有限公司 无框西装制板方法
CN109259370A (zh) * 2018-11-09 2019-01-25 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 用于学生制服的旋转袖窿配袖法及旋转袖窿配袖衣身结构
CN109730386A (zh) * 2019-03-01 2019-05-10 黎明职业大学 一种服装立体剪裁的方法
CN112914182A (zh) * 2021-03-08 2021-06-08 周斌 一种落肩袖服装的制作方法
CN112981915A (zh) * 2021-02-06 2021-06-18 西京学院 一种服装半里裁制方法
CN115251504A (zh) * 2022-07-18 2022-11-01 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 一种合体男衬衣的制版方法

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2343103A (en) * 1942-05-02 1944-02-29 White Lillian Sleeve construction
FR966094A (fr) * 1948-05-07 1950-09-29 Perfectionnements apportés et relatifs aux manteaux, jaquettes et autres vêtementsmunis de manches
FR1082534A (fr) * 1952-08-20 1954-12-30 Perfectionnements à la coupe de vêtements
FR1130850A (fr) * 1955-03-04 1957-02-12 Perfectionnement au procédé de coupe de l'étoffe pour la confection de vêtementsmasculins ou similaires
US3187344A (en) * 1963-07-31 1965-06-08 Porcello Raphael Unitary garment constructions
US3431562A (en) * 1966-12-27 1969-03-11 Elsie Natalie Souders Removable maternity insert panels

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2343103A (en) * 1942-05-02 1944-02-29 White Lillian Sleeve construction
FR966094A (fr) * 1948-05-07 1950-09-29 Perfectionnements apportés et relatifs aux manteaux, jaquettes et autres vêtementsmunis de manches
FR1082534A (fr) * 1952-08-20 1954-12-30 Perfectionnements à la coupe de vêtements
FR1130850A (fr) * 1955-03-04 1957-02-12 Perfectionnement au procédé de coupe de l'étoffe pour la confection de vêtementsmasculins ou similaires
US3187344A (en) * 1963-07-31 1965-06-08 Porcello Raphael Unitary garment constructions
US3431562A (en) * 1966-12-27 1969-03-11 Elsie Natalie Souders Removable maternity insert panels

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103767207A (zh) * 2014-01-06 2014-05-07 南通纺织职业技术学院 一种服装袖子结构及其成型方法
CN103767207B (zh) * 2014-01-06 2015-10-28 南通纺织职业技术学院 一种服装袖子结构及其成型方法
CN107581690A (zh) * 2017-11-06 2018-01-16 桐乡市大唐皮草有限公司 无框西装制板方法
CN109259370A (zh) * 2018-11-09 2019-01-25 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 用于学生制服的旋转袖窿配袖法及旋转袖窿配袖衣身结构
CN109259370B (zh) * 2018-11-09 2024-02-20 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 用于学生制服的旋转袖窿配袖法及旋转袖窿配袖衣身结构
CN109730386A (zh) * 2019-03-01 2019-05-10 黎明职业大学 一种服装立体剪裁的方法
CN112981915A (zh) * 2021-02-06 2021-06-18 西京学院 一种服装半里裁制方法
CN112981915B (zh) * 2021-02-06 2023-08-15 西京学院 一种服装半里裁制方法
CN112914182A (zh) * 2021-03-08 2021-06-08 周斌 一种落肩袖服装的制作方法
CN112914182B (zh) * 2021-03-08 2023-04-07 周斌 一种落肩袖服装的制作方法
CN115251504A (zh) * 2022-07-18 2022-11-01 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 一种合体男衬衣的制版方法

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