US3187344A - Unitary garment constructions - Google Patents

Description

June 8, 1965 R. PORCELLO I UNITARY GARMENT CONSTRUCTIONS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed July 31, 1-963 INVENTOR. RA PHAEL PORCELLO 8 @01- ATTORN' June 8, 1965 R. PORCELLO 3,187,344

UNITARY GARMENT CONSTRUCTIONS Filed July 51, 1963 r 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR: RAPHAEL PoRcELLo "strands in the other.

United States Patent 3,187,344 UNITARY GARMENT CONSTRUCTION?) Raphael Porcello, Knickerbocker Station,

New York, N.Y. Fiied July 31, 1%3, Ser. No. 298,921 3 Claims. (Cl. 2-93) h 3,187,344 Patented June 8, 1965 sleeve and back portions thereof are formed from one I piece of. material, and wherein the two front portions have integral pieces respectively projecting rearwardly around opposite sides of the neck opening and joined at the backof the latter to form the garment collar.

Some of the objects of invention having been stated,

7 other objects willappear as the description proceeds when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which; g

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of a piece of material shaped to form the back, hood, firontand arm portions of a garment embodying the present invention;

back portion, and one-half ,of the front portion of the garment, in combination with a quadrilateral gusset uniting the three portions underneath the arm so as to provide the necessary additional body and arm circumferential iiullness, and a pleat or gather at the intersection of the adjacent neckline and shoulder ridge to correspondingly decrease the fullness and thusafliord the proper circumferenta'il neckline dimension. The quadrilateral gusset affords adjustment substantially in all directions. For example, two diagonally opposed corners of the gusset are attached to diagonally opposed congruent corner notches formed in the proximate edges of said arm, back and front portions, and by varying the angularity of these corners and notches the fullness of the garment can be varied diagonally. Similarly, variation of the angularity of the'other diagonal corners of the gusset will produce varying degrees of fullness transversely to that previously mentioned. V

In relatively long garments such as raincoats and over- 1 taken along line 6-6 inFIGURE 5;

' form of invention;

coats, the maximum stresses usually occur alongvertical lines in the back portions-when the wearer is in or apback and horizontally in the front portionsof the gar- 'ment. In some woven fabrics, the Warp strands are stronger while in other fabricsythe weft strands have greater strength.

It is therefore another object ofthis invention to pro videa garment of unitary construction in which at least the back and front portions thereof are formed from one piece of woven fabric, and with the weft strands of the i fabric in one portion substantially alined with the warp Heretotore, numerous attempts have been made to provide garments of unitary construction, but so faras applioant is aware, all have lacked the proper adjustment features necessary to afiord the desired body contour and stylish design. Patent No. 2,487,983 is a typical example of such prior attempts. It will be readily observed in this patent thatradjustrnent is soughtonl'y between the sleeve andback portion of the garment, leaving an improper fit at the front and without making corresponding reductions at the shoulder ridge so as to'obtain a proper lit in the vicinityof the neckline. Moreover the fabric from which'the garment is formed is not cut so that the warp'and weft strands thereof will be .aline'd with "stresses corresponding to the strength of the strands in the complete-d garment.

It isyet another object of this invention to provide a garment ofunitary construction in which the front, collar,

FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a quadrilateral gusset adapted to fit underneath one arm of the garment;

FIG. 2A is a plan view of an opposite-hand gusset adapted to fit underneath the other arm of the garment;

FIGURE 3 is a front elevation of the garment formed from the pieces shown in FIGURES l,- 2 and 2A, With one arm of the garment being in elevated position for purposes of illustration;

FIGURE 4 is an elevational view looking, at the right side of FIGURE 3;

FIGURE 5 is an elevational view looking at the back of FIGURE 3, but with both arms in lowered position;

FIGURE 6 is a diagrammatic cross-sectional vie FIGURE 7 is a diagrammatic vertical sectional view taken along line 77 in FIGURE 5 FIGURE 8 is a diagrammatic sectional detail view to form the front, collar, arm and back portions of a garment according to a modified form of the invention; FIGURES 10 and 10A are views similar to FIGURES 2' and 2A showing the gussets employed in'the modified FIGURE 11 is a front elevation of the garment made from the pieces shown in FIGURES 9, 10 and 10A, one arm ofthe garment being in an elevated position;

FIGURE 12 is an elevational view looking at the right side of FIGURE 11 FIGURE 13 is a diagrammatic topplan view of FIG- URE 11, the collar being omitted and both arms in lowered'position, and- FIGURE 14 is -a diagrammatic taken along line 14-14 in FIGURE 13. f

Referring more particularly to'the drawings, the numeral 10 broadly designates a ladies out-er garment such as a raincoat or top coat shown in. FIGURES 3, 4 and 5, said garment'beingformed from the three pro-formed blanks or pieces of material 11, 12 and =12 (FIGURES 1, land 2A); 1

It will be noted that the completed. garment is sym metrical about its vertical centerline XX, there being anarm portion, one-half back portion, one-half hood portion, and one-halffront portion on each side of said line. Accordingly, reference numerals and letters will be employed to describe one side-of the garment. Since the other side is opposite-hand, thesame reference characters with added prime notationswill be applied to such opposite-hand parts without or them. 1 I

- The right side of. blank 11 (FIGUREI) comprises arm portion 14', one-half front portion 15, one-halfback porfurther detailed description tion 16, and onehalf hood portion .17. The upper-man in of front portion 15 is folded upon itself along dot-dash line-.18 and the edge thereof is secured to the. body of the front portion along another dot-dash line 19 to thereby form a vertical hem for accommodating closure means at the front of the garment as shown in FIGURE. 3.

Similarly, the outer end of sleeve portion 14is folded upon itself along dot-dash line 20 and its foldededge is cross-sectional view secured to the body of the arm portion along dot-dash line 21 to form another hem or cuff for the sleeve.

The remaining marginal edges of blank 11, as shown in FIGURE 1, are the finish or seam lines of the garment, it being understood that certain methods of uniting the edges of the various portions of the blank may necessitate the provision of a narrow strip or area (not shown) outside and surrounding finish line here shown.

The hemmed sleeve of garment 10 is formed by first gathering or pinching the back edge of arm portion 14 (FIGURE 1) so as to position lines I], 11' into coinciding relationship and then uniting the adjacent edges along the coinciding lines thereby imparting the proper shape to portion 14 for free and easy movement of the wearers arm when the garment is completed. Next, two adjacent sides of quadrilateral gusset 12 are attached to the proximate edges of arm portion 14 so that points A, B and C of the respective gusset and arm portions will coincide as shown in FIGURE 4 after which the proximate edges of sleeve portion 14 are united along underarm seam line 23.

In a similar manner, the remaining two adjacent edges of gusset 12 are united along lines BD and CD to the proximate edges of front and back portions 15 and 16 respectively. The lower proximate edges of the front and back portions are united along seam line 24 disposed at the side of the garment and forming a continuation of scam lines BD and CD mentioned above.

In order to afford a more precise fit at the waistline of ladies garments, it is also desirable to supply vertical 'pleats by pinching portions in the back of the garment so that lines 25, 26 will coincide and then securing the pinched portions together along the coinciding lines. The front portion 15 is likewise gathered at the waistline by bringing points HH into coinciding relationship and then uniting the material along lines HK and HL.

At this point in making the garment 10, there is a surplusage of materal substantially at the intersection of the neckline and the shoulder ridge, and another surplusage along the back of the neckline, the first surplusage being indicated at EMGE and the latter at EEEE'. Surplusage EMGE results primarily from the insertion of gusset 12 underneath the arm portion to afford sufficient material to permit proper arm movement; however, this additional material enlarges the garment at the shoulder ridge and neckline thereabove, and accordingly must be eliminated. Stated differently, the portion BAC of gusset 12 defines an acute angle having its apex A pointing toward the outer end of the sleeve (FIGURE 4), whereas the eliminated area EGE at the shoulder ridge thereabove defines an acute angle having its apex G also pointing toward the outer end of the sleeve (FIGS. 1 and Thus the lengths of the front and back portions 15, 16 and 15', 16 are suspended from and progressively shortened at the shoulder ridge areas E, G, E and E, G, E and the upper circumferentially sleeve dimensions progressively increased by the gussets 12, 12' as the respective distances from the neckline decrease. With the elimination of surplusage EMGE, the surplusage EEE'E' is also eliminated so as to impart the proper contour at the back of the neckline as well as to adjacent hood portions thereabove. The above-mentioned surplus areas are eliminated by positioning points EEE into coinciding relationship to form a pleat or gather on the inside of the garment and then uniting the gathered material along lines EM, EM, EG, EG, and EE. By observing FIGURES 1 and 5, it will be noted that the lower intermediate edge E, E of the hood is located at the neckline and-constitutes the neck band of the garment, the opposite ends of said band being secured to the upper proximate edges of the front portions 15 and 15. The upper intermediate edge E, E of back portion 16, prior to seaming the garment,

is disposed in spaced relation to the lower edge E, E of the neck band an-drforms a continuation of shoulder ridge lines G, E and E, G. When,'however, the two edges E, E and E, E are united as shown in FIGURE 5, the neck band remains in its initial position while the intermediate back portion is raised thereby suspending and shortening the latter portion at the neck band of the garment. It is evident from FIGURE 1 that the points EEE, when united, constitute a single point common to the back panel, neckband panel and the front panel. When united in this manner, the overall length of the neckband will be reduced at the neckline an amount which is at least as much as, or even greater than, the amount of reduction in length of the back panel. Finally, the hood portions 1'7 and 17 are united along line 27 to impart the final contour to the garment. Suitable button holes 28 are provided in the vertical hem of one of the front portions of the garment, and button holes 2? in the other front hem to afford a closure means.

In order to provide a garment having the front and back portions thereof made from the same piece of woven material, and to further aline the warp threads in one portion with the weft or filling threads in the other portion of the completed garment, the proper positioning of the front and back portions on the fabric when blank 11 is formed is of critical importance. This end result may be accomplished by arranging the warp strands W of blank 11 parallel to the longitudinal axis of front portion 15 and at right angles to the longitudinal axis of back portion 16 as shown in FIGURE 1, and with the front and back portions extending substantially at right angles to one another. After the blank is formed with the garment portions in the above positions, the front and back portions 15 and it? are folded about a diagonal line extendof said neckband panel, an elongated outwardly extending from the junction of these portions thereby bringing the warp strands of one portion into alinement with the weft strands of the other preparatory to uniting the edges as previously described.

The arm portion 14 being formed along the diagonal fold line between the front and back portions 15 and 16 of blank 10, both the warp and weft strands of the arm portion will run in opposed spiraled directions when the garment is completed. In other words, the weft strands will form acute angles with the longitudinal elements of the sleeve and extend in one direction while the warp strands will also form acute angles with the longitudinal sleeve surface elements and substantially right angles to the weft strands. Where the warp and weft strands of the blanks 10 and 10a are distinguishable one from another by a color or pattern design, the ornamental effect can be enhanced by havingcertain dominant lines running in different directions in each of the arm, front and back portions. This feature is especially important in fabrics of unitary construction where definite limitations are imposed upon the number of directions a particular stripe of the blank can assume when it is sewed together. In the present invention, however, this limitation is made less severe by the novel manner of initially cutting the blanks as described above.

FIGURES 9 through 14 illustrate a modified form of invention as applied to mens outer garments such as designated by reference character 10a in FIGURES 11 and 12. Like reference characters will be applied to the parts of the modified form which are substantially identical to corresponding parts'of the preceding form and without further detailed description.

The modified form is produced by uniting the edges of blank 11a, using gussets 37, 37', said blank being shaped orpreformed to include arm portionsfitl, 30', front portions 31, 31, collar portions 33, 33, and back portion 32 (FIGURES 9, 10 and 10A).

Garment 10a differs from previously described garment 10 in several important respects, namely: (a) the filling or weft strands F of the fabric are disposed horizontally in the back portion of the completed garment and vertically in the front portions, (b) waistline pleats are eliminated, (c) underarm gussets 37, 37 are substantially concavo-convex in outline so as to supply additional room at the shoulder blades of the wearer, and. (d) the upper edges of the two one-half front portions 31, 31' extend rearwardly and around opposite sides of the neck opening and being united to form a collar for the garment.

Referring to the last-named difference, the front portions 31, 31' have integral extensions 33, 33' respectively, which extensions combine to form collar 34. Beginning at the intersection point Set the neck and shoulder lines (FIGURE 13) the edges S, 35 and S, 35 (FIGURE 9) of collar portions 33, 33' are united to the respective neckline edges S, 35 and S, 35 of the back portion 32; and also the edges 35, 36 of extension 33 are united to the corresponding edges 35, 36 of extension 33 to thereby complete the collar 34 as shown in FIGURE 11. The concave-convex shape of gussets 37, 37' which supply additional room at the junction of the arm portion with the back portion 32, has its upper left-hand edge thereof (FIG. 12) alined with underarm seam 23a, the latter seam being located slightly closer to the front of the garment with point B fitting snugly at the arm pit and constituting the intersection between side seam 24 and the obtusely disposed arm seam 23a.

In the drawings and specification preferred embodiments of the invention have been disclosed, and although specific terms are employed they are used in a generic sense and not intended for the purpose of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims.

I claim:

1. In a garment construction comprising a blank, said blank having a neckband panel with an inner elongated edge corresponding to the neckline of the garment, an elongated front panel extending outwardly from one end of said neckband panel, an elongated outwardly extending back panel, said back panel having an inner edge spaced opposite a segment of said neckband edge, and an elongated outwardly extending sleeve panel between said front and back panels, the outer end portions of said back and sleeve panels respectively having convergent edges therebetween defining a marginal notch in said blank at one side of the sleeve panel, and the outer end portions of said front and sleeve panels respectively having convergent edges therebetween defining a second marginal notch at the opposite side of the sleeve panel, the combination of means uniting the proximate notch edges of said front and back panels inwardly from the blank margin and to at least a partial depth of the respective notch edges, a second'means uniting the respective notch edges of said sleeve panel inwardly from the blank margin and to at least a partial depth of the latter edges, and a third means uniting said inner back panel edge to said spaced edge segment of the neckband panel whereby the length of the back panel will be reduced and the back panel will be suspended from the garment neckband.

2. A garment construction as defined in claim 1 wherein one end of the united neckband and back panel edges terminates at a point common to the neckband, front and back panels, and means for reducing the length of the neckband panel along said neckline and at said common point an amount at least as much as said reduction in length ofrsaid back panel.

3. A garment construction as defined in claim 2 and further comprising a quadrilateral gusset, means uniting two adjacent sides of said gusset respectively to and between the remaining depth of the proximate notched edges of said front and back panels, and means uniting the other two adjacent sides of the gusset respectively to' and between the remaining depth of said notched edges of the sleeve panel whereby the circumferential dimension of the sleeve will be increased at the inner end of the latter and opposite said point of neckline length reduction.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,374,301 4/21 Howard 288 1,576,023 3/26 Banberis 2 8 7 X 2,021,586 11/35 Adler 274 2,072,644 3 37 McBee 2--87 X 2,427,041 9/47 Bishop 2--73 2,442,749 6/ 48 Callahan et al 2-8=7 FOREIGN PATENTS 26,182 4/ 31 Great Britain. 115,612 7/42 Great Britain. 453,982 12/ 49 Italy. 462,779 4/5 1 Italy.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

Claims (1)

1. IN A GARMENT CONSTRUCTION COMPRISING A BLANK, SAID BLANK HAVING A NECKBAND PANEL WITH AN INNER ELONGATED EDGE CORRESPONDING TO THE NECKLINE OF THE GARMENT, AN ELONGATED FRONT PANEL EXTENDING OUTWARDLY FROM ONE END OF SAID NECKBAND PANEL, AN ELONGATED OUTWARDLY EXTENDING BACK PANEL, SAID BACK PANEL HAVING AN INNER EDGE SPACED OPPOSITE A SEGMENT OF SAID NECKBAND EDGE, AND AN ELONGATED OUTWARDLY EXTENDING SLEEVE PANEL BETWEEN SAID FRONT AND BACK PANELS, THE OUTER END PORTIONS OF SAID BACK AND SLEEVE PANELS RESPECTIVELY HAVING CONVERGENT EDGES THEREBETWEEN DEFINING A MARGINAL NOTCH IN SAID BLANK AT ONE SIDE OF THE SLEEVE PANEL, AND THE OUTER END PORTIONS OF SAID FRONT AND SLEEVE PANELS RESPECTIVELY HAVING CONVERGENT EDGES THEREBETWEEN DEFINING A SECOND MARGINAL NOTCH AT THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE SLEEVE PANEL, THE COMBINATION OF MEANS UNITING THE PROXIMATE NOTCH EDGES OF SAID FRONT AND BACK PANELS INWARDLY FROM THE BLANK MARGIN AND TO AT LEAST A PARTIAL DEPTH OF THE RESPECTIVE NOTCH EDGES, A SECOND MEANS UNITING THE RESPECTIVE NOTCH EDGES OF SAID SLEEVE PANEL INWARDLY FROM THE BLANK MARGIN AND TO AT LEAST A PARTIAL DEPTH OF THE LATTER EDGES, AND A THIRD MEANS UNITING SAID INNER BACK PANEL EDGE TO SAID SPACED EDGE SEGMENT OF THE NECKBAND PANEL WHEREBY THE LENGTH OF THE BACK PANEL WILL BE REDUCED AND THE BACK PANEL WILL

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