FR2565793A1 - Garment having at least one piece rolled up on itself - Google Patents

Abstract

The garment is of the "adjusted stitched" type. It is characterised in that it comprises at least one piece which has cutouts 4, 7 and 8 and which is rolled up on itself according to a spiralled, continuous and flat configuration, providing the location of the trunk and the passage for at least one limb of the person who is to wear the garment. This piece is closed on itself by the joining of some of its edges 6 and 7. This arrangement prevents the cutting out and then the stitched assembly of several pieces.

Description

GARMENT HAVING AT LEAST ONE PIECE WRAPPED ON ITSELF
Since the earliest antiquity, draped type clothing has been known, arranged around the body, following the contours of it from quite a distance.

 Nowadays, traditional clothes formed exclusively by a drape of fabric still exist: There is, moreover, a second large family of clothes: that of "sewn" type clothes. They are distinguished from the previous ones by the fact that they result from the assembly of edges of one or more pieces of fabric and, this, by following the shapes of the body, either closely (fitted clothing) or from afar (loose clothing ).

 In the West, clothing has evolved from the "draped" type to the "sewn" type. From the Renaissance, appeared the type garment sewn of the adjusted style, that is to say "close to the body".

 This tendency to marked anatomical schematization was asserted during modern times. It currently balances between the "adjusted sewn" and the "wave sewn".

 Now, the sewn type involves increasingly precise cuts, seams and adjustments which lead to industrial difficulties which are overcome, as we know, at increasingly high prices.

 The forms of a body are, concretely, very complex as soon as one has to follow them closely in a precise way.

 In the description below, account will essentially be taken of the trunk since the limbs and the neck constitute, each as far as it is concerned, a relatively simple unit. On the trunk, on the contrary, is concentrated most of the architecture of a garment because it brings together the most remarkable forms, coordinated in the most complex ways.

 The most apparent characteristic is an alternation of narrowed and blooming forms, each offering a practically undevelopable surface, that is to say irreducible to a plane. However, the garments being made with fabrics which appear flat, the only known solution for covering the trunk "close to the body" is to fragment the fabric into several pieces and to give them shapes such as by their assembly we obtain the desired variable size.

Thus, considering for the simplicity of the presentation, only the waist and hip measurement, we understand that to achieve a fitted skirt, we can only choose between two solutions, with the means known to date
- or, we establish the width of the skirt at the level of the
hips and then you have to narrow the top of the skirt
to connect it to the waist, which is done by folds,
pliers or gathers;
- or, we establish the width of the skirt at the level of the
size and then you have to widen the lower part of the skirt
to accept the hip measurement, which is done by punctures,
slits or inserts.

Whether it is the narrowing elements or the elements
enlargement they impose a gender and oppose the freedom of
style.

The present invention differs radically from the solutions
and allows you to make clothes with a minimum of
pieces, providing for practically continuous seams and following
body shapes as close as you'd like.

To this end, the invention relates to a garment of the sewn type
adjusted to cover at least part of the trunk and, optionally,
of members of a person, characterized in that it comprises at least one
part which has cutouts and which is wound on itself according to
a spiral, continuous and flat configuration.

According to other characteristics of the invention:
- the edges to be joined are formed and oriented so
whether they extend in lines either horizontal or
oblique, not vertical, considering the garment as it
is intended to be worn by a person;
- the lines resulting from the joining of edges are intended for
go to the level (s) corresponding to the most roundnesses
marked with a person to wear the garment;
- two edges to be joined each extend along a line
continuous of length equal to that of other but of tracing
dissimilar to give the room, in the place considered, a
three-dimensional, flat surface that closely matches the shape
of the corresponding region of the trunk of a person to wear
clothing;; - the garment comprises two symmetrical pieces joined together one to
the other according to at least one line located in the virtual plane
vertical anteroposterior of the garment as it should be
worn by one person; - the shaped edges to spare the limbs passages are
substantially circular and must be plumb with either
groin, or armpit of a person who is to wear the
garment, legs and / or sleeves which can be attached to
these edges; - the part includes extensions wound on themselves in
spiral to form either legs or sleeves.

 The invention will be better understood from the detailed description below made with reference to the accompanying drawing. Of course, the description and the drawing are given only by way of an indicative and nonlimiting example.

Figures 4 and 5 are schematic views of a piece of clothing according to the invention, respectively flat and shaped to achieve a bodice;
Figures 6 and 7 are schematic views of a piece of clothing according to the invention, respectively flat and shaped to achieve short pants or "shorts";
Figures 8 and 9 are schematic views of a piece of clothing according to the invention, respectively flat and shaped to make pants;
Figures 10 and 11 are schematic views of a piece of clothing according to the invention respectively flat and shaped to achieve a kind of leotard without legs or sleeves;
Figures 14 and 15 are schematic views of a piece of clothing according to the invention, respectively flat and shaped to make a skirt.

 In Figure 1 there is shown a female trunk seen in profile and as it could be shown schematically by a seamstress mannequin.

 There is a total absence of symmetry and the presence of substantially straight lines A, B, C, D, E and F comparable to generators of trunks of more or less regular cones.

 In Figure 2, the same female trunk is shown from the back.

 There is perfect symmetry with respect to a vertical plane P anteroposterior.

This is particularly highlighted in Figure 3 where we see in perspective the same female trunk. We hatched the area of the trunk which is in the plane P and we see that the straight lines A and
F are part of this plan P, a favorable circumstance that the invention exploits as will be explained below.

These three figures make it possible to better understand that the processes known until now could have been strongly influenced by the concern of the maker to follow the apparently natural layout of the schematic network 5 composed of the horizontal lines and the generatrices of the frustoconical parts and, this is not in plane P only; but over the entire perimeter and, in particular, along the lateral lines G, H,
I, J. K and L as well as along the shoulder lines M and N.

 However, it is precisely from this that the invention departs by deliberately ignoring this diagram because if the latter apparently follows nature, it practically does not respect the topical geometry of the problem, namely the development of the left surfaces.

 According to the invention, the trunk is covered, in whole or in part by winding fabrics, without taking any account of the vertical seam lines.

 -Of course, for obvious reasons related to the morphology and customs, certain edges and / or certain seams are located as usual.

 This is the case, for example, of the waist circumference for skirts, breeches and pants.

 On the other hand, due to the characteristic winding of the invention and the desire to follow the shapes of the body as closely as possible, the piece of fabric wound on itself has edges which must be joined together and these edges form lines (sewing, welding, gluing or other means of meeting depending on the material of the garment or the chosen style) which are either horizontal or most generally oblique and therefore in the latter case, along a spiral path.

 An important feature of the invention is the arrangement of the fabric in a spiral, continuous and flat configuration.

 This means that the garment is of the fitted type although it does not have pucks, folds or clips. The fabric remains continuous: it does not have a notch and does not have any connecting seams.

By "approximation stitching" is meant the seams which join two neighboring parts of the same piece of fabric in order to reduce the width thereof. The fabric remains flat, that is to say that it does not inherently have any folds, darts, pucks, drapes or blurs.

 It should, however, be emphasized that if the invention is presented and illustrated here as intended to allow the production of fitted clothing as close to the body as possible, almost like an overmolding, it is because it is the most difficult to reach and that it is, therefore, the best evidence to show the possibilities of the invention.

 But this does not exclude, on the contrary, the combination of the invention on the practical and utilitarian level with decorative arrangements specific to a style or to a genre which, for their part, may include folds, pliers, gathers and drapes.

 If it is also possible to make a fitted garment, all the more reason we can opt for a certain blur, or add pleats and gathers not necessary but by taste.

 It is clear, for example, that if you can make a leotard, you can make a "dress-bag".

 In the rest of the presentation, expressions such as "seam lines", "sew", "sewn", etc. will be used, these expressions should not be taken in their strict sense but in the general sense of "meeting line" with two edges "," fix "," assemble "," unite ", etc., because a garment according to the invention can be produced in various materials among which are for example synthetic materials, woven or not, which can only be assembled by welding or gluing and not by sewing.

 According to a characteristic of the invention, seam lines deliberately pass in line with the roundness, from the fleshy part, the most naked in a given anatomical area.

 We use, in fact, the freedom of shapes that can be given to the edges to be assembled to achieve, from a flat fabric, a three-dimensional shape best corresponding to that of the part of the body concerned.

 As explained above, the human body is generally symmetrical with respect to the plane P. Any line located in this plane is therefore, by definition, "flat": straight or curved, and never three dimensional.

 Consequently, the invention uses this favorable natural arrangement to bring together the pieces which together constitute a garment when, by choice, and not by necessity, we renounce making this garment in one piece.

 We then realize two symmetrical halves face to face joined by a "flat" seam, either placed face to face to provide an opening, along at least one of the lines A, C, E or B, D, F. L opening, as is well known, can be provided with all kinds of closing elements: zipper, buttons and buttonholes, laces, etc.

 Having given these general indications, we can now illustrate them by means of the few examples shown in the drawing.

 In Figures 4 and 5, we can see how we can make a bodice.

It is here obtained from two symmetrical pieces of fabric, only one of which is shown, flat, in FIG. 4.

 The straight line 1 corresponds to the line A of the mannequin of FIGS. 1 to 3. The curved line 2 corresponds to the waist.

 The straight line 3 corresponds to the line of the back B-B1 located in the plane P. In B, the line is straight, in B1 it is slightly curved to follow the "arch" of the back. In practice, this distinction is overlooked or neglected, depending on the morphology and / or the style of the garment. Here, we have chosen the first solution, and line 3 is entirely straight.

 Curved line 4 corresponds to half of the neckline.

 The straight line 5 corresponds to the line A1 of the dummy of Figures 1 to 3 which is located in the plane P and must pass between the breasts of the woman to wear the garment. The slightly curved convex line 6 constitutes an edge which must be joined to that which corresponds to the slightly curved convex line 7. The line 8 which joins lines 6 and 7 has a shape which corresponds to the sleeve circumference and which must pass to the plumb from the armpit of the person to be dressed.

 By FIG. 5, it is understood that the pipece is wound on itself in a spiral configuration and that the edges 7 and 7 are joined in a curve by arranging the lines 1 and 5 in line with one another. . We see that lines 1, 5 and 3 are in the same plane and that a symmetrical piece can be sewn along line 3 to form the complete garment.

 The designer has complete freedom to choose the exact shape of the lines, so that the garment can be as adjusted as desired.

The garment represented constitutes a basic structure which can
receive countless variations. for example
- the part located under the chest line 6-7 can be flared at
place to be adjusted: - - the chest line 6-7 can be more convex or less convex
according to the morphology in question and especially according to whether
the user is a woman or a man, or a child;
As explained above, the essential difficulties of the garment are gathered on the trunk. The sleeves and legs are less of a problem, since, even, they may be completely absent.

 Consequently, on a garment according to the invention applied to all or part of the trunk, sleeves or legs of all kinds can be mounted by any known means.

 However, the invention also makes it possible to create sleeves and legs by applying the same principles. This is shown in the example of Figures 8 and 9.

 The straight line 20 constitutes one side of a fly. The curved line 21 must pass vertically over the groin to form the crotch. It is extended by a straight line 22.

 Then, a long curved line 23 joins in a very tapered point 23a a long straight line 24 which is extended and bent by a line 25.

 Finally, a short straight line 26 leads to a curved line 27 connecting the latter to line 20.

 Note that the part of the piece of fabric limited by lines 22, 21, 20, 27, 26 and 25 corresponds to that of Figure 6 limited by lines 12, 11, 10, 16, 15 and 14. However, we wanted them not to be exactly superimposable here to show the possibilities of adaptation of the invention, within the framework delimited by its fundamental characteristics.

 The straight line 26 must be in the extension of the line 22 and both in the plane P. The line 27 forms the edge of the half waist.

 In FIG. 9, it can be seen that the panty part of the garment is organized as described above with regard to FIGS. 6 and 7 and that, on the other hand, it is no longer sufficient to save the location of the trunk and the passage of a leg but that one continues the winding of the piece of fabric on itself, in spiral to form the whole leg, until its waist.

the whole leg, to its base.

The connection here is perfectly suited to obtaining an edge
lower horizontal but, as follows from the explanations given
higher, there is no difficulty in obtaining an inclined lower edge
or step, like that of the shorts in Figure 7.

Note that the leg obtained is slightly frustoconical. She
could be more, or be absolutely cylindrical (in "pipe of
stove) or "elephant leg".

These provisions depend on the shapes of lines 23 and 24 and the
widths of fabric that they leave between them.

It is easy to understand that we can, in the same way, obtain a
sleeve but it is not certain that the part of the clothing enveloping 1-e
bust corresponds to the bodice of figures 4 and 5. Indeed the fabric
to constitute the sleeve should be beyond part of the
line 8 which, at this point, would disappear. However, it could happen that
the cuts contradict each other, flat.

We would then use a form declined from that of FIGS. 4 and 5,
the part of the bodice situated between the neckline and the armhole being treated to create the sleeve by rolling up, as was done for the leg of the pants of FIGS. 8 and 9.

 In Figure 9 there is shown the outline of the part (symmetrical to that which has been described), relative to the plane P.

If we had wanted to use only one piece, it would have a double length, the virtual central line of ~ symmetry being the
line 26.

We see that such a length may be incompatible with the width
maximum standard of usable materials. In this case, we are led to
manufacturing in two pieces, whereas in the cases of FIGS. 4 to 7
one can choose one or the other of these two solutions.

Figures 10 and 11, we see an example-representative of the possibilities of the invention since it is a kind of jersey covering as close as possible the entire trunk, while sparing the passage of the
neck, two arms and two legs.

The straight line 30 corresponds to the lines A, C, E, F and D of the
dummy of figures 1 to 3 and must therefore be in the plane
P. The concave curved line 31 corresponds practically to a half turn of
cut. The convex curved line segment 32 must be connected as
will explain it further and is in the extension of a curve
concave 33 to form the crotch. This continues with a determined point with a convex curved line 35 which continues with a straight line 36. A slightly curved concave line 37 begins at the end of the line 36 at a very acute angle and ends by determining a practically right angle with a straight line 38 which must lie in the plane P, in the vertical axis of the back (lines B and B1 of the mannequin). A small concave curved line 39 must form a half-neck and connects to a straight line 40 which must lie in the plane P, plumb with the sternum, (line Al of the dummy). This line 40 extends approximately perpendicularly to a slightly convex line 41.

 This is followed by a large concavity formed by three curved lines 42, 43 and 44, the latter being followed by a slightly convex line 45 which ends at line 30. However, this line 30 must be broken down into four segments to take into account the way it is placed in relation to the body, when the garment is shaped: a segment 30a must be placed in front of and corresponds to line A of the mannequin, a segment 30b must be placed in front and corresponds to the lines C and E of the mannequin, a segment 30c must form the crotch and a segment 30d must be placed behind, in correspondence with the lines F and D of the mannequin.

 Referring to FIG. 11, we can see in particular the coiled and spiral arrangement of the parts of fabric delimited by lines 30d-31-32 and 33 on the one hand, 30b-34-35 and 36 on the other hand. When the fabric is shaped to fit the person who is to wear the garment, the originally narrow space between lines 36 and 37 opens wide because line 36 extends obliquely, in a spiral, in the bulky part formed by hip and buttock, while line 37 runs half a waist.

 The space provided in this way is filled by the part of fabric delimited by lines 31 and 32. Thus, on the one hand lines 31 and 37 and on the other hand lines 32 and 35-36.

 The play of the convexities and the opposite concavities for two lines of the same length to join, allows to give the fabric a rounded shape (lines 32 and 35-36) for the hip and the buttock or narrowness (lines 31 and 37) for the size .

 Note that the upper part of the garment is identical to the bodice of Figures 4 and 5. Indeed, lines 30a, 37, 38, 39, 40 and 41 correspond to lines 1 to 6, while lines 42 to 45 correspond to lines 7 and 8.

 Lines 41 and 45 are sewn together and their convexities give the fabric a three-dimensional shape suitable for covering a breast.

The arm circumference, or armhole, is formed by lines 42 to 44 which must pass directly over the armpit of the person who is to wear the garment.

 One thus obtains a complete garment in two symmetrical pieces joined by lines 30c, 30d and 38, in the plane P, lines 30a and 30b being advantageously intended to receive closure members: buttons, laces or zipper.

 If the extent of available fabric allows, we can of course make the entire garment in one piece which has an axis of symmetry at the location of line 30 (Figure 10) which is, then, virtual but at the right of which must be provided with a slot and closing members, unless provided behind, at the line 38 line.

 If, on the contrary, the extent of fabric is relatively small, it may not be possible to place the entire part of FIG. 10.

 In this case, we can split it in two and the most suitable location to plan the meeting of the two pieces is line 46 shown in dotted line because it is located on the waist, so horizontally, in line with the lines to sew 31 and 37.

 In addition, it leaves a full bodice which can be made separately, giving the designer the ability to create a garment comprising two different fabrics.

 Here again, it is possible to add sleeves and / or legs to this garment, either of the conventional type, mounted, or of the spiral type as has been described with reference to FIGS. 8 and 9.

 In Figures 12 and 13, there is shown the application of the invention to a garment forming skirt behind and panties in front.

 It is made of two parts symmetrical with respect to the plane P.

 Figure 12 shows one of these two parts. Its periphery is thus constituted: a slightly Convex line 50 makes a practlluenent right angle with a convex line 51 which is followed by a concave line 52 ending in a straight line 53 forming a practically right angle with a long convex line 54 making it even a practically right angle with a straight line 55 also ending at a practically right angle with a concave line 56. This leads to a very hollow concave line 57 extended by a line 58 with less marked concavity which ends in a line 59 substantially straight.

The periphery closes with a concave line 60 which extends from line 59 to line 50.

 Line 50 essentially corresponds to line C of the mannequin and is placed in the plane P, its convexity being provided to marry a slight roundness of the belly of the person having to wear the garment. The part of the fabric delimited by lines 50, 51, 59 and 60 envelops the hip, line 60 constituting a half waist. Line 52 is placed at the right of the buttock and line 53 which extends it forms a substantially vertical edge of a leg which is not closed on itself and which is visible only in front. Line 54 forms the lower edge of the skirt, behind, and pseudo-legs, in front.

 Line 55 is in plane P and must be sewn to its counterpart of the symmetrical piece forming half the garment. Line 56 covers the part of the fabric located between lines 52 and 58 and is sewn along a virtual line 61 shown in phantom, as well as along line 51, so that line 57 is in the extension from line 50.

 Lines 50, 57, 58, 59 and 55 are therefore all in plane P.

 The above description assumes that the panty part is in front and the skirt part behind. We can just as easily predict the opposite, that goes without saying. Likewise, as is known, the closure members can be provided either in front or behind, depending on the style given to the garment.

 Naturally, here again, the length of the skirt is left to the choice of the designer.

 If the part in Figure 12 must be split in two, a favorable location is indicated by the dotted line 62.

 Figures 14 and 15 show an application of the invention to a skirt which, like the previous one, has a skirt part and a panty part.

 Here, only one part is shown, but if it has to be split into two, the two parts will be assembled according to their line of symmetry 70 indicated in FIG. 14.

 The single piece has a concave line 71 which should form the size killer. On either side, there are two straight lines 7273 connected to concave lines 74-75 which end in straight lines 76-77. The latter make a practically right angle with lines 78-79, themselves at right angles with lines 80-81 which are connected to the same convex line 82 which must form the bottom of the panty skirt.

 The lines 76-78-80 on the one hand and 77-79-81 on the other hand, determine kinds of bands which must be fixed by their place on the back of the piece, in the middle, near the line 71, after having been made to make a complete turn to create, by winding, two legs. We have figured the letter "N" on the strip of lines 76-78-80 and the letter "B" on the strip of lines 77-79-81 to illustrate the fact that these strips always show the same side (reverse) on FIG. 14 and in FIG. 15, that is to say that the part has been wound on itself according to two opposite and symmetrical lateral movements, corresponding to the passages of the legs.

Keeping these elements in place is obtained by sewing together
lines 74 and 75 and then lines 76 and 77, then sewing
lines 78 and 79 near line 71. This arrangement is shown diagrammatically
by two lines in mixed lines 83 and 84 which must be superimposed on
the line in phantom 85.

 In this way, the front of the garment is presented as panties, the two legs being individualized and separated, while the back is presented as a skirt.

 The crotch is formed by the union of the two lateral bands along lines 74-75 and 76-77 which are in the plane P of the dummy of Figure 3. The lines 72 and 73 are preferably provided with closure members of any known type.

 As is apparent from the description above, the invention makes it possible to make garments that are very adjusted (FIGS. 6-7 and 10-11), moderately adjusted (FIGS. 4-5 and 8-9) or relatively vague (FIGS. 12- 13 and 1415).

 The invention therefore leaves the designer complete freedom of creation and provides the maker with an economical and rapid means of production.

Claims (7)

1- Garment of the sewn type adjusted to cover at least part  of the trunk and possibly of members of a person, characterized  in that it comprises at least one part which has cutouts  (4, 7-8, 10-11-12, 20-21-22,23-24-25, 31-32-33-34-36-37, 42-43-44  45, 51-52-53, 57-58-59, 72-74-76, 73-75-77) and which is wound on  itself in a spiral, continuous and flat configuration  sparing the location of the trunk and the passage of at least one member  of the person, this room being closed on itself by meeting  some of the edges of its ends (6, 31-32, 41, 78-79) and / or  of its cutouts (7, 13-14, 23-24-25, 35-36, 45,51-56, 74-75, 76-77). 2- Garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the edges  to be brought together are trained and oriented so that they  extend in lines either horizontal (6-7, 31-37,41-45, 51  56) or oblique (13-14, 23-24-25, 32-35-36), and not vertical,  considering the garment as it is intended to be worn by  a person. 3- Garment according to claim 2, characterized in that lines  (6-7, 13-14, 23-25, 32-35, 41-45) resulting from the joining of edges  are intended to pass to the level (s) corresponding to  most marked roundnesses of a person having to wear the  clothing. 4- Garment according to claim 1, characterized in that two edges  to be assembled (6 and 7, 23 and 24, 32 and 35-36, 41 and 45)  each extend in a continuous line of length equal to  that of the other but of dissimilar lines to give the room,  at the location considered, a three-dimensional, flat and  closely matching the shape of the corresponding region of the trunk  of a person having to wear the garment. 5- Garment according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises  two symmetrical pieces joined to each other according to at least one  line (3, 10-11-12-15, 20-21-22-26, 30-38-40, 50-57-58-59-55, 72-73  (P) clothing as it is to be worn by a person.  74-7576-77) located in the antero-posterior median virtual plane 6- Garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the edges  (8, 14, 33-34, 42-43-44) configured to spare the passages of  limbs are substantially circular and must be located  plumb either the groin or the armpit of a person in front  wear clothing, legs and / or sleeves that may be  reported on these edges. 7- Garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the piece  includes spirally wound extensions (23  24; to form either legs or sleeves.