CN106983206A - Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method - Google Patents
Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN106983206A CN106983206A CN201710250631.2A CN201710250631A CN106983206A CN 106983206 A CN106983206 A CN 106983206A CN 201710250631 A CN201710250631 A CN 201710250631A CN 106983206 A CN106983206 A CN 106983206A
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- line
- shoulder
- clothing
- point
- collar
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001360 synchronised effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 241001191009 Gymnomyza Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-methoxyethoxy)benzohydrazide Chemical compound COCCOC1=CC=CC(C(=O)NN)=C1 GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000011218 segmentation Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
Abstract
Cutting-out method is designed the invention discloses a kind of clothes original number FUD clinkings, the former number of the clothing specification of the region of interest such as tape edge is wide, base is wide, clothing length is determined according to anthropometric data, clothes fashion and sewing tech, if it is D that tape edge, which is F, base, designed with a kind of method of additional sewing key element value, make tape edge, base and a kind of wheel hub key element U generations synchronous with garment piece, pass through sewing tech, the clothing product for being equal to the former number of specification is obtained, a kind of garment market that meets is realized and cutting-out method is designed to the precision of tailoring and the clothes original number FUD clinkings of rate request.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing method of cutting out, cutting-out method is designed more particularly, to a kind of clothes original number FUD clinkings.
Background technology
Clothes tape edge, is the key element that clothing cutting plate is manufactured into clothing product.Prior art draws clean stitched seam cut-parts, then
Outwards draw tape edge line clipping.This kind of technology is larger to trial-manufacturing process length, the cost manpower and materials of ready-made clothes, is not suitable with clothes
Style type Fast transforms demand, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.It is publication date on November 5th, 2014, public
The number of opening discloses a kind of former figure tailoring methods of YVW for automatically determining clothes armhole depth, root for CN103622194B Chinese patent literature
Armhole girth, shoulder breadth, bust, clothing length, collar, waist section high position are determined according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion
Clothes original number, the upper and lower segmentation benchmark line length of garment piece armhole is determined with armhole girth rate, by dividing according to the former number of armhole girth
Section datum line automatically determines armhole points outside height, armhole depth and become come the form for the upper and lower part perimeter line for instructing front and rear armhole
Change.Overlong time, the cost manpower and materials that this method of cutting out that setting-out is repeated several times causes dress designing to cut are larger, uncomfortable
Should market-oriented clothes style type change demand, can not also meet the precision that current garment market convert to dress ornament and be wanted with speed
Ask.
The content of the invention
The invention aims to the design method of cutting out for solving prior art is numerous in same position repetition setting-out complexity
Trivial the problem of there is provided it is a kind of cut it is quick, precision and rate request that garment market is converted to dress ornament style type can be met
Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method.
The above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly what is be addressed by following technical proposals:A kind of former number FUD of clothes
Clinking designs cutting-out method, comprises the following steps:
A. determine that tape edge is wide, base is wide, horizontal open-neck collar, shoulder breadth, armhole week according to anthropometric data, clothes fashion and sewing tech
Length, bust, the former number of clothing product specification of clothing length, if a width of F of tape edge, a width of D in base, bust is B, armhole Zhou Changwei AH.
B. by two pieces be used for cut front and rear garment piece each left and right doubling of cloth, be aligned broken line above and below it is overlapping pave, with B/4+
The a width of length of tape edge, perpendicular to doubling line drawing hemline, originates in hemline, determines that clothing center line and sweater are long on broken line
In point, clothing line length=clothing length+base it is loose+tape edge loose * 2, by hemline left end upwards parallel to line drawing side seam line in clothing.Here have
Body illustrates 2 problems:If the 1, so designing a kind of without neck straight system style vest of the sleeveless without left front, garment piece bust size can be by
The step of base one is determined;2nd, because clothing center line upper and lower ends have tape edge, must be loose comprising two tape edges in clothing midline length
Degree.
C. originate in the long horizontal open-neck collar line of the flat picture of point of sweater, determine collar-shoulder point, according to style requirement by collar-shoulder point to clothing center line
Collar line and front neck contour after drawing respectively.Because shoulder line and rear collar line are all gradient, in the length base of collar-shoulder point before and after sewing
This is constant, so, horizontal open-neck collar plus tape edge width values are not necessarily here.
D. extend horizontal open-neck collar line and determine hair shoulder breadth point, extension amount=wide-horizontal open-neck collar line length of shoulder breadth/2+ tape edges;By hair shoulder breadth point
Downwards, require to determine hair shoulder point according to style, shoulder line is drawn by hair shoulder point to collar-shoulder point.This mao of shoulder breadth point decides clothing product
Shoulder breadth specification, it is necessary to plus tape edge width values.
E. according to style requirement, by the hair shoulder point poor line of flat picture chest shoulder to the right, chest breadth is drawn by the poor line right-hand member of chest shoulder downward vertically
Line, across back line drawn for right section 1/3 by the poor line of chest shoulder downward vertically, determine side seam line to the spacing of chest breadth line for preceding armhole is wide, side
The spacing of suture to across back line is wide for back armhole;Using hair shoulder point as height, the outside flat picture back armhole wide line on side seam line, by
Length=1/2AH oblique determination the line of AH depth is drawn below back armhole wide line left end to chest breadth line, chest breadth line is crossed and AH depth is oblique
To determining the flat picture BL BUST LINE of intersection point of line, and intersect with side seam line and to constitute AH depth points.Here chest shoulder is poor, refer to chest breadth line with
The interval of shoulder point.Because the shoulder breadth of equivalent specifications, bust, need different chest shoulders poor in different styles, mesothorax shoulder of the present invention
The data of difference can be according to the style of clothes and empirically determined;And before and after sewing tech, the amount of chest shoulder difference is constant, so this hair
Bright not to be related to chest shoulder method for determining difference, correlation technique is separately applied for a patent.
F. determined respectively outside preceding AH points outsides and rear AH at chest breadth line more than BL BUST LINE, lower 1/3 height of across back line
Side point;It is equal to the preceding AH of the former number of all long sizes of armhole to AH depth strokes and dots total length through forward and backward AH points outsides by hair shoulder point respectively
Line and rear AH lines.Here total length refers to:Preceding AH lines+rear AH lines, because in sewing tech, shoulder point, armhole depth point are downward
And the tape edge that spends in the lateral direction it is wide be it is equal, AH length is constant before and after sewing, so clinking design need not add
Subtract AH length.
G. according to rear collar line, shoulder line, rear AH lines, side seam line, hemline, two blocks of clothes are cut together, and routs up down
Piece confirms that rear garment piece has included the wheel hub key element of tape edge, base and clothes as rear garment piece(Line);According to front neck contour and preceding
AH lines are cut into front cut pieces by upper piece, confirm that front cut pieces are included and rear garment piece identical tape edge, base and wheel hub key element(Line).
H. each left and right of front and rear garment piece is opened, and it is overlapping up and down, by sewing tech, tape edge, base etc. are spent, wheel hub will
Element(Line)Clothing product wheel hub line is become, that is, obtains bottom side length=B/2 straight system configuration item of clothing finished product.
Preferably, the sewing key element in step g:By sewing tech, sewing key element is spent, that is, obtains size and is equal to
The clothing product of trimmed size original number.
The present invention determines that tape edge is wide, base is wide according to anthropometric data, clothes fashion and sewing tech, clothing length etc. is related
The former number of position clothing specification, with a kind of method of additional sewing key element value, makes the generation synchronous with cut-parts of the key elements such as tape edge, base,
Tape edge should not be separately put, setting-out should not be repeated.By sewing tech, sewing key element is spent, that is, obtains the clothes for being equal to the former number of specification
Finished product.The present invention pertains only to clothes clinking design method of cutting out, does not include the cutting at the other positions of other clothes, is not related to, no
The content at the other positions of clothes is described.In addition, key element code name related in the present invention simply indicates that the area with other method of cutting out
Other a kind of symbol, in the absence of other implications.The technology of the present invention can directly design cutting clothing cutting plate, can also draw cardboard
Clothing cutting plate model is cut into, the clothing cutting plate of industrialized mass production is cut out for picture.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows the design method of cutting out that it efficiently solves prior art is repeated at same position
The problem of setting-out is complicated cumbersome, realize it is a kind of cut it is quick, the essence that garment market is converted to dress ornament style type can be met
Spend the clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method of rate request.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is a kind of schematic diagram of garment cutting method of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a kind of schematic diagram of garment cutting method rear garment piece of the present invention;
Fig. 3 is a kind of schematic diagram of garment cutting method front cut pieces of the present invention;
Fig. 4 is a kind of schematic diagram of garment cutting method clothing product of the present invention.
In Fig. 1:1. hemline, 2. clothing center lines, the long point of 3. sweaters, 4. side seam lines, 5. horizontal open-neck collar lines, 6. collar-shoulder points, after 7.
Collar line, 8. front neck contours, 9. maos of shoulder breadth points, 10. maos of shoulder points, 11. shoulder lines, 12. chest shoulders are poor, 13. chest breadth lines, 14. across back lines,
15. back armhole wide line is drawn outer, 16 BL BUST LINEs, 17.AH depth points, AH points outsides before 18., AH points outsides, 20. after 19.
Preceding AH lines, AH lines, 22. rear garment pieces, 23. front cut pieces, 24. clothing product wheel hub lines, F. tape edges, U. wheel hub key elements, D. after 21.
Base, the oblique determination line of AH/2.AH depth, B/2. clothing products base.
Embodiment
Below by embodiment, and with reference to accompanying drawing, technical scheme is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, a kind of clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method, comprise the following steps:
A. determine that tape edge is wide, base is wide, horizontal open-neck collar, shoulder breadth, armhole week according to anthropometric data, clothes fashion and sewing tech
Length, bust, the former number of clothing product specification of clothing length, if a width of F of tape edge, a width of D in base, bust is B, armhole Zhou Changwei AH.
B. by two pieces be used for cut front and rear garment piece each left and right doubling of cloth, be aligned broken line above and below it is overlapping pave, with B/4+
The a width of length of tape edge, perpendicular to doubling line drawing hemline 1, originates in hemline, determines that clothing center line 2 and sweater are long on broken line
Point 3, in clothing line length=clothing length+base it is loose+tape edge loose * 2, by hemline left end upwards parallel to line drawing side seam line 4 in clothing.
C. originate in the long horizontal open-neck collar line 5 of the flat picture of point of sweater, determine collar-shoulder point 6, required according to style by collar-shoulder point into clothing
Collar line 7 and front neck contour 8 after line is drawn respectively.
D. extend horizontal open-neck collar line and determine hair shoulder breadth point 9, extension amount=wide-horizontal open-neck collar line length of shoulder breadth/2+ tape edges;By hair shoulder breadth
Point requires downwards, according to style determination hair shoulder point 10, and shoulder line 11 is drawn by hair shoulder point to collar-shoulder point.
E. according to style requirement, by the hair shoulder point poor line 12 of flat picture chest shoulder to the right, chest is drawn by the poor line right-hand member of chest shoulder downward vertically
The wide line 13, across back line 14 drawn for right section 1/3 by the poor line of chest shoulder downward vertically, the spacing for determining side seam line to chest breadth line is preceding armhole
The spacing of wide, side seam line to across back line is wide for back armhole;Using hair shoulder point as height, the outside flat picture back armhole width on side seam line
Line 15, draws the length=1/2AH oblique determination line AH/2 of AH depth below back armhole wide line left end to chest breadth line, crosses chest breadth
The oblique flat picture BL BUST LINE 16 of intersection point for determining line of line and AH depth, and intersect with side seam line and constitute AH depth points 17.
F. preceding AH points outsides 18 and rear AH are determined at chest breadth line more than BL BUST LINE, lower 1/3 height of across back line respectively
Points outside 19;Total length is pointed with the finger or gesticulate equal to the former number of all long sizes of armhole through forward and backward AH points outsides to AH depth by hair shoulder point respectively
Preceding AH lines 20 and rear AH lines 21.
G. according to rear collar line, shoulder line, rear AH lines, side seam line, hemline, two blocks of clothes are cut together, and routs up down
Piece is used as rear garment piece 22(See Fig. 2), confirm that rear garment piece has included tape edge F, base D and clothes wheel hub key element U;According to front neck
Contour and preceding AH lines are cut into front cut pieces 23 by upper piece(See Fig. 3), confirm that front cut pieces are included and rear garment piece identical tape edge, bottom
Side and wheel hub key element.
H. each left and right of front and rear garment piece is opened, and it is overlapping up and down, by sewing tech, tape edge, base etc. are spent, wheel hub will
Element becomes clothing product wheel hub line 24, that is, obtains bottom side length=B/2 straight system configuration item of clothing finished product(See Fig. 4).
The method of cutting out of the present invention can also spend sewing key element, obtain size after g steps directly by sewing tech
Equal to the clothing product of the former number of trimmed size.
The present invention makes tape edge, base etc. sew key element and clothing with a kind of method in the additional sewing key element value of corresponding site
Piece is synchronously produced, by sewing tech, spends sewing key element, obtains the clothing product for being equal to the former number of specification.The technology of the present invention can
Single-piece clothes customized are cut for designing, it can also be used to draw the clothing cutting plate model for cutting out industrialized mass production.The present invention is solved
Repeat the loaded down with trivial details problem of setting-out at same position present in the design method of cutting out of prior art, realize it is a kind of cut it is fast
Clothes original number FUD clinkings design that is prompt, can meeting the precision rate request that garment market is converted to dress ornament style type is cut
Method.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
A. determine that tape edge is wide, base is wide, horizontal open-neck collar, shoulder breadth, armhole week according to anthropometric data, clothes fashion and sewing tech
Length, bust, the former number of clothing product specification of clothing length, if a width of F of tape edge, a width of D in base, bust is B, armhole Zhou Changwei AH;
B. by two pieces be used for cut front and rear garment piece each left and right doubling of cloth, be aligned broken line above and below it is overlapping pave, with B/4+ tape edges
A width of length, perpendicular to doubling line drawing hemline(1), originate in hemline, clothing center line determined on broken line(2)And sweater is long
Point(3), in clothing line length=clothing length+base it is loose+tape edge loose * 2, by hemline left end upwards parallel to line drawing side seam line in clothing(4);
C. the long horizontal open-neck collar line of the flat picture of point of sweater is originated in(5), determine collar-shoulder point(6), required according to style by collar-shoulder point into clothing
Collar line after line is drawn respectively(7)And front neck contour(8);
D. extend horizontal open-neck collar line and determine hair shoulder breadth point(9), extension amount=wide-horizontal open-neck collar line length of shoulder breadth/2+ tape edges;By hair shoulder breadth point
Downwards, require to determine hair shoulder point according to style(10), shoulder line is drawn by hair shoulder point to collar-shoulder point(11);
E. according to style requirement, by the hair shoulder point poor line of flat picture chest shoulder to the right(12), chest breadth is drawn by the poor line right-hand member of chest shoulder downward vertically
Line(13), across back line drawn for right section 1/3 by the poor line of chest shoulder downward vertically(14), the spacing for determining side seam line to chest breadth line is foresleeve
Gallery is wide, the spacing of side seam line to across back line is that back armhole is wide;Using hair shoulder point as height, outside flat picture back armhole is wide on side seam line
Spend line(15), the length=1/2AH oblique determination line of AH depth is drawn below back armhole wide line left end to chest breadth line(AH/2),
Cross chest breadth line and the oblique flat picture BL BUST LINE of intersection point for determining line of AH depth(16), and intersect with side seam line composition AH depth points
(17);
F. AH points outsides before being determined respectively at chest breadth line more than BL BUST LINE, lower 1/3 height of across back line(18)With outside rear AH
Side point(19);Total length is pointed with the finger or gesticulate equal to the former number of all long sizes of armhole through forward and backward AH points outsides to AH depth by hair shoulder point respectively
Preceding AH lines(20)With rear AH lines(21);
G. according to rear collar line, shoulder line, rear AH lines, side seam line, hemline, two blocks of clothes are cut together, and rout up bottom sheet work
For rear garment piece(22), confirm that rear garment piece includes tape edge(F), base(D)And the wheel hub key element of clothes(U);According to preceding collar
Line and preceding AH lines are cut into front cut pieces by upper piece(23), confirm that front cut pieces are included and rear garment piece identical tape edge, base and wheel
Hub key element;
H. each left and right of front and rear garment piece is opened, and it is overlapping up and down, by sewing tech, tape edge, base etc. are spent, wheel hub key element is
As clothing product wheel hub line(24), that is, obtain bottom side length=B/2 straight system configuration item of clothing finished product.
2. a kind of clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the seam in g steps
Key element processed:By sewing tech, sewing key element is spent, that is, obtains the clothing product that size is equal to the former number of trimmed size.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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CN201710250631.2A CN106983206B (en) | 2017-04-17 | 2017-04-17 | Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method |
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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CN201710250631.2A CN106983206B (en) | 2017-04-17 | 2017-04-17 | Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method |
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CN106983206A true CN106983206A (en) | 2017-07-28 |
CN106983206B CN106983206B (en) | 2018-09-28 |
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CN201710250631.2A Expired - Fee Related CN106983206B (en) | 2017-04-17 | 2017-04-17 | Clothes original number FUD clinkings design cutting-out method |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN110558641A (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2019-12-13 | 西京学院 | Combined cutting method for female short-sleeve clothes |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN101716022A (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2010-06-02 | 胡亨有 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
CN103610253A (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | XE original number tailoring method of clothing chest and shoulder difference |
CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
-
2017
- 2017-04-17 CN CN201710250631.2A patent/CN106983206B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN101716022A (en) * | 2009-11-24 | 2010-06-02 | 胡亨有 | Novel armhole tailoring method |
CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
CN103610253A (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2014-03-05 | 胡亨有 | XE original number tailoring method of clothing chest and shoulder difference |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN110558641A (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2019-12-13 | 西京学院 | Combined cutting method for female short-sleeve clothes |
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