RU2264145C1 - Grading of garment design by scaling method - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry, in particular, may be used in processes for designing of basic model constructions of sewing articles of any complexity, desirable sizes and height in accordance with draft design and technical solution.

SUBSTANCE: method involves grading garment design by moving constructive points relative to axes of grading, with value by which said movement of constructive points is performed being proportional to single scaling coefficient, which is calculated as ratio of desirable construction size to basic construction size.

EFFECT: simplified calculation and increased precision of pattern.

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Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry and can be used in the design processes of basic and any complexity of model designs of garments, the desired size and height in accordance with the outline design and technical specifications.

There are three known methods of technical propagation (the modern term is gradation) of patterns: grouping, radiation, and proportionally calculated [1, 2].

The grouping method involves combining two sets of patterns. The structural points of the same name on the combined patterns are connected by straight lines and divided by the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes. Connecting the points on straight lines, get the contours of patterns of intermediate sizes. This method is also used as the initial one for finding increment values at structural points of atypical gradation schemes for patterns of complex cuts.

The main disadvantage of the grouping method is that it is necessary to build and refine drawings by drawing not one, but two sizes.

The essence of the beam method is that from a certain point (focus), straight lines (rays) are drawn through all the structural points of the part. From the contour of the part along these rays, the increments are plotted. On the newly found points, the contours of parts of smaller and larger sizes are drawn.

This method is the simplest but least accurate. Its accuracy is primarily affected by the choice of the position of the starting point (focus). At different positions of the focus, the direction of the rays is different, the design points of the patterns are displaced, and their contours are distorted. The radiation method can be used for gradation of the patterns of individual parts of hats and corsetry, the size increments of which occur in the radial direction.

The closest analogue of the proposed gradation method by scaling is the proportional-calculated gradation method, which is most widely used in the clothing industry, which has also been transferred to many specialized computer-aided design programs. The essence of the proportional-calculation method is to calculate the increment values based on the variability of the subordinate dimensional characteristics. The increment values are set in accordance with the position of the design points from the original gradation lines. The movement of points is determined in proportion to the distance of the corresponding structural point relative to the gradation lines, using the values of the established initial increments along the main structural lines [2]. The proportional-calculation method is also used to determine the values of the displacement of the points of parts, the design of which differs from the standard ones, i.e. points of relief lines, coquettes, finishing seams, finding increment values at structural points of atypical gradation schemes for patterns of complex cuts.

The main disadvantage of this method is the complexity of the calculations, which does not guarantee the contiguity and proportionality of sections of structural parts, distortion of structures of extreme sizes and, consequently, deterioration in the quality of the fit of the product in the figures of consumers. When transferring the method to a computer, the calculation and recording of increments for each design point remains, as with manual gradation, the responsibility of the user.

The technical task of the invention is to simplify calculations and improve the accuracy of gradation of any complexity of model designs of garments, ensure the contiguity and proportionality of sections of structural parts, and maintain the norms of landing okat ova on the corresponding sections of the armhole.

The problem is solved in that the gradation of the structure by the scaling method is carried out by moving the structural points relative to the gradation axes by an amount proportional to the single scaling factor, which is calculated as the ratio of the desired structure size to the original structure size, and further gradation is carried out according to the missing growths.

The essence of the proposed scaling gradation method is to replace the calculation of increments for each structural point based on the variability of subordinate dimensional features and the established initial increments along the main structural lines used in the proportional-calculation method, by calculating a single coefficient for simultaneously scaling all parts of the product. With the computer application of this method, the entire routine of calculations for the user disappears, since a simple scaling procedure is carried out, which, moreover, is available for execution in any graphic system without developing specialized programs. A feature of the method is that all the details of the model structure are graduated at the same time. At the same time, the design obtained by graduation does not require checking for proportionality and contiguity, with guaranteed preservation of the standards for landing the sleeve ridge in the corresponding sections of the armhole.

General view of the formula for calculating a single scaling factor for the gradation of the design of any products (not just clothes):

K = (size i) / (size j),

where i is the desired size value, j is the original size value.

The formula for calculating a single scaling factor for the gradation of the design of the shoulder product takes the form:

K = (C _g3 i + P _g3 i) / (C _g3j + P _g3j ), or K = C _g3 i / C _g3 j,

where C _g3 is the third _half -girth of the chest, cm; P _g3 - increase along the chest line, cm;

i is the desired value of the dimensional sign and increase;

j is the initial value of the dimensional characteristic and increase. In the second case, the increase is scaled.

The formula for calculating a single scaling factor for the gradation of the design of a waist product takes the form:

K = (C _bi + P _bj ) / (c _bj + P _bj ), or K = C _bi / C _bj ,

where C _b - half hips, cm; P _b - increase along the hips, cm; i is the desired value of the dimensional sign and increase; j is the initial value of the dimensional characteristic and increase. In the second case, the increase is scaled.

From the formula for calculating a single coefficient, it can be seen that this method of gradation allows you to change the width of the product, not only depending on size, but if desired, and on the increase. That is, if before the increase was left in the desired size the same as in the original, then using the proposed method, you can change the increase depending on the properties of the materials or type of clothing during the gradation, which cannot be done using existing gradation methods.

Further gradation of the missing growth is carried out within the limits not significantly distorting the proportions of the model sketch. Moreover, changes in growth must be made from the waist line to the bottom of the product without gradation of sections of parts located above the waist line. Ignoring the change in the structural elements in height located above the waistline (armhole depth, height of the okata, etc.) is justified by slight fluctuations in the gradation values for these elements, which are practically not noticeable by the user. In addition, the result achieved by adjusting the design above the waist line is not justified by time costs.

It is known that when determining the gradation parameters of patterns, it is necessary to monitor the preservation of the aesthetic characteristics of the external shape of the product, namely the silhouette and proportions laid down in the design of the basic size product. The composition of the costume, created by the artist, always corresponds to good proportions, which are reproduced in a model design of the basic size. The design, degraded by the scaling method, is obtained changed both in size and in growth, with the proportions preserved in accordance with the sketch. And since scaling with any coefficient cannot violate the contiguity, it is easy to understand the proportionality of the slices and proportions of the structure why, after gradation, their verification is not required.

The neck width in the scaling method, in comparison with the calculated width, changes by 0.1 cm from size to size, which can logically be justified by a change in the increase (for smaller sizes it decreases, for larger sizes it increases).

The decision to edit the position of the end of the shoulder seam after graduation remains with the specific designer. Correction of the end of the shoulder and the adjustment of the upper parts of the armhole associated with it are carried out very simply, without violating the standards for landing the sleeve ridge, which does not even require editing.

For this method of gradation by scaling, a sequence of procedures was developed as applied to the AutoCAD system, where each layer has its own layer.

For the convenience of gradation, a document template has been created for the AutoCAD system,

which is a table with cells for structures of certain sizes and growths.

On the diagonal of this table are scaled constructions proportional to the sketch of the model with simultaneously changed size and height. The columns are the same structure, editable by height. Moreover, growth increments are obtained from structures located on the diagonal of the table.

Details of the gradation method by scaling can be found at the Department of GPT of Moscow State University of Design and Technology.

Although the studies were conducted in the AutoCAD system, the method is nevertheless applicable in any graphic system and does not require the development of specialized programs. The proposed method of gradation by scaling, on the one hand, is simple, on the other hand, it has too many advantages so that you can immediately believe in it. Therefore, a comparative analysis was carried out, the criteria for which are given below (Table 1).

Example of gradation of a model structure by scaling

The main proportions corresponding to the sketch of the model are laid down by the designer at the stage of development of the model design of the basic size and height.

At the gradation stages, the scaling method uses two methods:

- a method of scaling for gradation in size with a simultaneous change in growth;

- a method of vertical deformation for gradation of missing growths with a change in the proportions laid down in the sketch of the model.

Various applications of these methods are shown in figures 2 and 4, as well as enlarged fragments of these figures (figures 3 and 5). The arrows on the diagonal indicate the direction of the gradation in size with a change in growth, and the vertical arrows indicate the direction of gradation in the missing growths. Figure 1 shows the dimensioning of the structure for visual inspection when gradating by height with the variant shown in Figure 2 (and its fragment in Figure 3), where all sizes of the same height have the same values of the dimensioned parameters of the structural parts.

For example, in order to get the scaling factor for the size 48 structure from the size 46 structure (on the main or harmonious diagonal of Fig. 2, or on any diagonal of Figure 4), you need to copy all the details of the size 46 structure to the size 48 diagonal cell and scale the copied structure. The coefficient will be calculated by the machine itself, and the designer needs to enter a link to the size that was 46 (if referenced without increasing along the chest line), and a link to the size that should turn out to be 48. In AutoCAD, divide 48 by 46 and enter the calculated coefficient scaling is not necessary. The breast gain in this calculation is scaled too. If the designer does not want to change the increase along the chest line, then, for example, with an increase of 7 cm, it is necessary to divide 55 by 53 to calculate the scaling factor. The length of the structure in height in the first and second cases will be slightly different, but the product will be marked (due to the indifference interval according to growth plus or minus 3 cm) will be one and the same - average growth according to GOST.

With individual services to the population, you can immediately from the base size gain the design of the right size, and then the desired growth. To calculate the scaling factor, you need, for example, to get from 46 sizes - sizes 50, divide 50 by 46, and taking into account an unscalable increase, for example equal to 7 cm, divide 57 by 53.

With gradation by height, in order to satisfy a larger number of customers, a vertical deformation of the structure is performed to change the proportions inherent in the model sketch. Depending on the complexity of the MK, several methods are used in the vertical deformation method:

- reception of parallel transfer, as with the manual method of gradation by height;

- reception of compression / stretching;

- the method of proportioning on complex lines of division.

Traditional gradation methods are a brake on accelerating the process of designing model clothing designs. The use of computer technology urgently requires the search for new ideas, methods and new design technologies and, in particular, new gradation methods, as one of the stages of this process.

The proposed technology for gradation of designs of garments by scaling is a breakthrough in accelerating the design process. This method allows you to simultaneously (in less than a minute) gradate all the details of a single model design, as well as the design of several models at the same time, created on the basis of one with different sleeve designs and constructive modeling. At the same time, the conjugacy and proportionality of the slices of all structural parts, as well as the norms of landing of the sleeve ridge in the corresponding sections of the armhole, is preserved, which can not be checked.

For the designer, this is an excitingly enjoyable creative process (which cannot be said about existing gradation methods) in which even a single and single scaling factor is calculated by the machine.

In addition, for users of specialized CAD systems using existing gradation methods, this technology makes it possible, during the transition period of adopting a new method, to identify increments to fill gradation dialog boxes in size and height of both standard and atypical clothing designs at all structural points.

The method has a great future not only for the industrial production of products, but also in the manufacture of products for individual orders, since a design for any size and height, for a model chosen by the customer, can be obtained almost instantly.

Literature

1. Koblyakova E.B., Savostitsky A.V. Antonov I.A. Basics of designing clothes. M .: "Light industry", 1968, s. 326-340.

2. Designing clothes with CAD elements: Textbook. for universities / E.B. Koblyakova, G.S. Ivleva, V.E. Romanov, etc. - 4th ed., revised. and add .; Ed. E.B. Koblyakova. -M .: Legprombytizdat, 1988, p. 328-339.

Claims (1)

Gradation of clothing designs by moving structural points relative to the gradation axes, characterized in that the movement is carried out by an amount proportional to a single scaling factor, which is calculated as the ratio of the desired construction size to the original construction size, and further gradation is carried out according to the missing growths.

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