CN109924555B

CN109924555B - Two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothes and corselets

Info

Publication number: CN109924555B
Application number: CN201910303896.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Ningbo Fasun Vanguard Creative Clothing Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-04-16
Filing date: 2019-04-16
Publication date: 2021-01-01
Anticipated expiration: 2039-04-16
Also published as: CN109924555A

Abstract

The invention discloses a two-in-one tailoring process of women's clothes and corselets, which comprises the tailoring process of a front corselet A, a back corselet B, a front cover cloth C, a back cover cloth D, a front elastic band E, a back elastic band F and a bra G, and comprises the following steps: (1) cutting a front corsage A and a back corsage B: tailoring the neck nest and the shoulder structure of the corset according to the neck nest and the shoulder structure of the clothes; (2) cutting the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D; (3) cutting the front elastic band E and the rear elastic band F; (4) cutting a bra G; (5) sewing a front corsage A, a back corsage B, a front cover cloth C and a back cover cloth D; (6) and (5) sewing the bra G. The process can combine the corsage with the clothes, improve the matching degree of the corsage and the clothes and improve the body shape attractiveness.

Description

Two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothes and corselets

Technical Field

The invention relates to a process for cutting a garment and a corsage, in particular to a process for cutting a female garment and a corsage into a whole.

Background

Women's undergarments (including brassieres and shaping clothes) have been designed to be tailored separately for a long time, but wearing alone greatly affects wearing efficiency. Moreover, the matching of the underwear and the outer garment structure is not well considered in the independent design of the female underwear, so that the matching degree between the underwear and the outer garment is not high, the underwear structure is too tight or too loose, local structural bulges of the underwear are not attached to a human body, and the outer surface of the outer garment is overstaffed. In addition, the wearing of individual corsage is time-consuming and laborious, the wearing is incorrect, the operation difficulty is higher, the number of selected underwear is inaccurate, the wearing is uncomfortable, female chest diseases and the like are often caused for a long time, especially in the increase of women along with the age, the chest shape is continuously changed, the previous corsage can obviously not meet the requirement of body change, and the living cost is aggravated when the corsage is purchased for a plurality of times.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a two-in-one tailoring process of a female garment and a corsage, which solves the problem that the corsage is inconvenient to wear independently, can combine the corsage with the garment, improves the matching degree of the corsage and the garment, and improves the body shape attractiveness.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a process for cutting a front bra A, a back bra B, a front cover cloth C, a back cover cloth D, a front elastic band E, a back elastic band F and a bra G, which comprises the following steps:

(1) cutting a front corsage A and a back corsage B:

(1.1) cutting the neck sockets and the shoulder structures of the corset according to the neck sockets and the shoulder structures of the clothes, wherein the arc line of the front neck socket 1 of the front corset A and the arc line of the rear neck socket 1 of the rear corset B are the same as the arc line of the neck sockets of the clothes, and the inclination of the front shoulder slope 1 and the inclination of the rear shoulder slope 1 are lower than that of the shoulders of the clothes;

(1.2) making a perpendicular line from the back neckline point a to a back lower waist-circumference point b, wherein the length of ab is 4/4-10 cm, and a perpendicular line segment making a line segment ab from the back lower waist-circumference point b intersects with a perpendicular line made from the front neck-stitching point 1 at a lower waist-circumference point c1 to form a lower waist-circumference line bc 1;

(1.3) the lower waistline point c of the back corset is on the lower waistline bc1, the length of c1c is the bust/2-9 cm, the point m3 is the lower waistline arrival point, the point m3 is at a certain distance on the extension line of the line segment ac, the point m2 is the side seam point of the front and back corsets, the length of c1m2 is the bust/4 +1.0cm, and the point m3m2 is the lower waistline of the back corset;

(1.4) m1 point is an armhole depth point, m2m1 point is a side seam of the corselet, the side seam is perpendicular to the c1c line segment, and the armhole depth point m1, the front corselet shoulder point e and the back corselet shoulder point d are connected by a straight line, em1 and dm1 form an armhole basic inclined line;

(1.5) l point is a back armhole vertical point which is on an armhole basic inclined line dm1, m point is a front armhole vertical point which is on an armhole basic inclined line em1, m1l is m1m, a perpendicular line is made from the l point to an arm hole basic inclined line dm1 to a back armhole radian concave-in point f, a perpendicular line is made from the m point to an arm hole basic inclined line em1 to a front armhole radian concave-in point G, e, G, m1, f and d are connected to form a front and back chest clothes armhole arc line, m4 point is a bra cup lower tangent point, and after bra G drawing, m4 point is determined, which is moved downwards along a bra cup from the intersection point of the lower waist circumferential line and the bra cup by a distance equal to cm 3;

(2) cutting the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D:

(2.1) point k is a front cloth lower opening point which is at a certain distance from a lower waistline point C1 on a perpendicular line made from a front neck stitching point 1, point o5 is a cup zipper tooth joint point, point ko5 is perpendicular to C1k, point j is a front cloth armhole incisal joint point, on an arc line of front and rear chest clothes armholes, a certain distance from a front chest clothes shoulder point e, point p5 is a point which is half of a line segment kj, point p3 is a front cloth breast curve point, point p5p3 is perpendicular to kj, a front cloth C structure is formed by connecting points o5, k, p3, j, g, m1, m2 and m4, and point m4 is connected with point o5 by an arc;

(2.2) the point h is the middle point of the back cover cloth, the point h is on the line segment ac, the point i is the lower opening point of the back cover cloth, the point i is a certain distance D from the shoulder point of the back chest cloth on the arc lines of the armholes of the front and back chest clothes, the point h1 is a vertical point, the point h is a certain distance h from the middle point of the back cover cloth on the line segment hi, the point p4 is the chest curve point of the back cover cloth, the point h1p4 is vertical to hi, and the points h, p4, i, f, m1, m2 and m3 are connected to form a structure D of the back cover cloth;

(3) cutting the front elastic band E and the rear elastic band F:

the long edge of the front elastic band E is drawn along m2m4, the wide edge is drawn along m2m1, the long edge of the rear elastic band F is drawn along m2m3, and the wide edge is drawn along m2m 1;

(4) cutting a bra G:

(4.1) O2 is a balance point of the bra cup, which is a distance from the lower waistline point c1 on the perpendicular line from the front neck stitching point 1, a perpendicular line is made from O2 to c1O2 to the center point O of the bra cup, O3 is a circle radius tangent point, the length of the Oo3 is less than the length of O2O, a circle is drawn by using the Oo3 as the radius, O1 is a lower tangent point, the Oo1 is perpendicular to the Oo3, and a left tangent point n and a right tangent point p are distributed at two sides of the lower tangent point O1;

(4.2) p1 and p2 are left and right cup curved points, connecting lines of p1 and p2 with a half point of the radii Op and On are perpendicular to Op and On respectively, the lengths of p1 and p2 from Op to On are equal respectively, the connecting lines O, p2, n, o3, p and p1 form a cup structure, and p and n are connected by a circumferential radian;

(5) sewing a front corsage A, a back corsage B, a front cover cloth C and a back cover cloth D:

(5.1) sewing the front bra A and the back bra B, the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D at the side seams respectively, and sewing the sewn front bra A and back bra B, the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D at the lower waistline;

(5.2) folding the sewed front chest garment A and back chest garment B and the front cover cloth C and back cover cloth D in half along the sewing line of the lower waistline, inlaying a left zipper at the back of the front and back chest garments A and B and the front and back cover cloth C and D, and inlaying a right zipper at the back of the other sewed front and back chest garments A and B and the front and back cover cloth C and D;

(5.3) embedding elastic bands at the bottom ends of the side seams of the front chest garment A, the back chest garment B, the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D which are sewed together;

(5.4) fixing the outer opening edges of the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D on the front corsage A and the rear corsage B by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches;

(5.5) detaching the front corsage A and the front cover cloth C and the back corsage B and the back cover cloth D along the side sewing lines, sewing the corresponding shoulders of the front corsage A and the back corsage B to form a corselet armhole, and sewing the corselet armhole and the front fly of the corselet by adopting a bound edge structure;

(6) sewing of brassiere G

And sewing the bra G at the position of the cut bra G, sewing the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet with the neck sockets of the clothes, and sewing the clothes together with the neck sockets of the corselet when the clothes are bound.

Preferably, in step (1.1), the slopes of the front shoulder slope 1 and the back shoulder slope 1 are 0.7cm lower than the shoulder of the garment; in step (1.3), the cm3 has a length of 1.0 cm.

Preferably, in step (1.4), the length of m2m1 is bust/20 cm.

Preferably, in step (1.5), m1l ═ m1m ═ bust/10 to 1.4cm, lf ═ bust/10 to 3.4cm, mg ═ bust/10 to 5.4 cm.

Preferably, in step (2.1), c1k ═ bust/10-2.4 cm, ko5 has a length of 0.5-1.5 cm, ej ═ bust/10-3.4 cm, and p5p3 ═ bust/20-1.9 cm.

Preferably, in step (2.2), the ah is No./4-23 cm, di is bust/10-3.4 cm, hh1 is bust/10-3.4 cm, and h1p4 is bust/20-1.7 cm.

Preferably, in step (3), the front elastic band E has a length and width of 5.0 × 2.0cm and the rear elastic band F has a length and width of 3.0 × 2.0 cm.

Preferably, in step (4), for a model a bra G, the lengths of p1 and p2 from Op and On are respectively chest circumference/10-6.4 cm, c1o 2-chest circumference/10-4 cm, o 2O-chest circumference/10 +0.4cm, Oo 3-chest circumference/10-1.0 cm, and arc no 1-po 1-chest circumference/20-0.5 cm, the bra G draws a circle with a radius of Oo3, and the arc no1 and po1 are half-dart incisions of the circle.

For the brassieres G with the B models to the F models, the lengths of the distances Op and On of the p1 and the p2 are consistent with the length of the bra G with the A model, the bra G is calculated according to the bra specification difference, and the specification difference is set as follows: c1o2 is equal to the adjacent chest size difference/10-0.2 cm, o2O is equal to Oo3 is equal to the adjacent chest size difference/10 +0.1cm, no1 is equal to po1 is equal to the adjacent chest size difference/10-0.1 cm, ab is equal to the adjacent clothing size difference/2 cm, and c1c is equal to the adjacent chest size difference/2-0.5 cm.

Preferably, in step (5.1), the width of the seam head is 1.0 cm; in step (5.2), the sewn front and rear bodices a and B and the front and rear cover cloths C and D are folded down by 1.0cm at the rear backs thereof.

Preferably, in the step (6), the sewing of the brassiere G includes:

(6.1) the bra G comprises three parts of cover cloth 1, cover cloth 2 and a cup molding body, wherein the cup molding body is formed by compression molding of a sponge grinding tool, the cup molding body is of a middle-thick edge thin structure, and the thickness is set according to the season of thin summer and thick winter;

(6.2) the cover cloth 1 and the cover cloth 2 clamp the cup molding body and are sewn by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches, a zipper is embedded at the outer opening of each cup, a bra G is sewn at the position of the cut bra G, and a lace or a wind-storm buckle is sewn at the front center of each cup;

and (6.3) sewing the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet together with the neck sockets of the clothes, and sewing the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet together with the neck sockets of the corselet when the collar of the clothes is stitched.

The two-in-one tailoring process of the women's clothing and the corsage solves the problem that the single corsage is inconvenient to wear, and has the following advantages:

(1) the process of the invention improves the wearing efficiency of the corsage, saves the living cost, meets the change of the female body, greatly solves the matching degree of the corsage by replacing the cups according to the body shape characteristics, also solves the body appearance characteristics of different female body corches, is easy to operate, improves the body shape attractiveness and reduces the purchase cost;

(2) according to the process, front and rear cover cloth is arranged on front and rear corsets, the front and rear cover cloth is fixedly sewn on the front and rear corsets by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches and is used for supporting and helping to pull breasts, a bra G is fixed at the breast position of the front corset by adopting a zipper and is used for covering breasts, the bra G is divided into A, B, C, D, E, F, G seven cup types according to different female breast characteristics, is used for wearing different women and plays the roles of loading, unloading and exchanging at the same time, the bra G sets cup bodies with different thicknesses according to different seasons, sets a thin cup body in summer and a thick cup body in winter;

(3) according to the process, the front elastic band and the rear elastic band are used for tightening the bottom end of the side seam of the corselet to play a role of supporting breasts, the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet are sewn with the neck socket of the outerwear to form an integration function, and the corselet and the outerwear are in a connected structure, so that the corselet is convenient to wear and free to disassemble, the cups are diversified, and the requirements of different women are met;

(4) the process of the invention, the flexible adjustment of the zipper and the fastener meets the chest comfort, greatly improves the complementarity and the utilization of the corselet, enhances the wearing function, realizes the innovative design of the corselet structure, organically combines the corselet and the cup to improve the modeling effect and enhance the aesthetic feeling.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic view of the structure of a corselet.

Figure 2 is a schematic view of the construction of the outer garment and the corsage components.

FIG. 3 is a first schematic view of a brassiere sewing process.

FIG. 4 is a second schematic view of a second process for sewing a corselet.

FIG. 5 is a third schematic view of a brassiere sewing process.

Fig. 6 is a schematic view of a back-buckling process of a corsage.

Fig. 7 is a schematic view of the process of adding the left zipper on the back of the corset.

Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the process of adding the right zipper to the back of the corset.

Fig. 9 is a schematic view of the process of adding elastic bands to the bottom edge of the corsage.

Fig. 10 is a schematic view of a corsage cloth-coating fixing process.

Fig. 11 is a schematic diagram of the armhole edge-covering process of the bra.

FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the covering process of the front fly of the corsage.

Fig. 13 is a schematic view of the structure of a bra cloth.

Fig. 14 is a schematic view of a bra molding cup body sewing process.

FIG. 15 is a schematic view of a process for sewing the bra molding cup body with a zipper.

Fig. 16 is a schematic view of the bra cup assembly process.

Fig. 17 is a schematic view of a bra cup lacing (or a wind-break buckle) process.

FIG. 18 is a schematic view of a process for sewing the corsage to the neck hole of the outer garment.

Figure 19 is a schematic view of a corsage and outerwear being worn.

Fig. 20 is a perspective view of the inner structure of the corsage.

Reference numbers: a front corsage A; a back corsage B; a back collar nest 1; a front collar nest 1; a front shoulder bevel 1; back shoulder slope 1; a rear neckline point a; the rear lower waist point b; front collar stitching 1; front lower waist point c 1; a lower waistline point c of the chest garment; lower waist circumference to point m 3; side seam point m 2; armhole depth point m 1; back corset shoulder point d; front corset shoulder point e; a posterior armhole vertical point l; the vertical point m of the front sleeve hole; the point is a rear armhole radian concave point f; an anterior armhole radian concave point g; lower tangent point m4 of the cup; a front cloth covering lower opening point k; cup zipper hinge point o 5; front cloth armhole incisal joint j; front cloth covering chest curve point P3; a half point p 5; the back midpoint h of the back cover cloth; then covering a cloth lower opening point i; vertical point h 1; a rear cloth-covering breast-shaped curve point P4; a front elastic band E; a rear elastic band F; a brassiere G; cup balance point o 2; a cup center point O; circumferential radius tangent point o 3; a left tangent point n; a right tangent point p; lower tangent point o 1; right cup curvature p 1; left cup curvature p 2; cover cloth 1; and (3) cover cloth 2.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

A two-in-one tailoring process of female clothes and corselets is shown in figure 2, which is a schematic structural diagram of outer clothes and corselets, and the process comprises the tailoring process of a front corselet A, a rear corselet B, a front cover cloth C, a rear cover cloth D, a front elastic band E, a rear elastic band F and a bra G, and is completed through the steps of drawing, tailoring, sewing, assembling and the like.

1. Cutting method of front corsage A and back corsage B

(1) Tailoring the corset neck pocket and shoulder structure according to the garment (shirt and coat) neck pocket and shoulder structure: the cutting method of the front corset A and the back corset B, the arc line of the front neck space 1 of the front corset A and the arc line of the back neck space 1 of the back corset B are the same as the arc line of the neck space of the clothes (shirt and coat), all the following calculated data are calculated according to 160/84A type, as shown in figure 1, the corset structure diagram is shown, the length of the front shoulder slope 1 and the length of the back shoulder slope 1 are both 6.7cm, the slope is 0.7cm lower than the shoulder of the clothes (namely the point of the front shoulder slope 1 and the back shoulder slope 1 on the shoulder is 0.7cm lower than the shoulder of the clothes), the front corset is used for reducing the slope of the shoulder of the corset, and the function of tightening the armholes of the cor;

(2) making a vertical line from a rear neckline point a to a rear lower waistline point b, and intersecting a transverse vertical line segment of a line segment ab made from the rear lower waistline point b with a vertical line of the front stitching point 1 at a front lower waistline point c1 to form a lower waistline bc 1; wherein ab is 27.5-32.5 cm (calculation method: number/4-10 cm), and the female body is set to be 5 types, specifically, 150/76A is 27.5cm (150/4-10), 155/80A is 28.7cm (155/4-10), 160/84A is 30.0cm (160/4-10), 165/88A is 31.3cm (165/4-10), 170/92A is 32.5cm (170/4-10).

(3) The distance from the front lower waistline point c1 to the rear waistline point c of the chest garment is chest circumference/2-9 cm, the female body is set to be 5 models, 150/76A-170/92A, the size of c1c is 29-37 cm (calculation method: chest circumference/2-9 cm), specifically, 150/76A corresponds to 29cm, 155/80A corresponds to 31cm, 160/84A corresponds to 33cm, 165/88A corresponds to 35cm, and 170/92A corresponds to 37 cm; m3 is the lower waist line to the point, m3 is the extension line of the line segment ac, the length of cm3 is 1.0cm, the recess amount in the back of the chest garment is compensated, the effect of leveling the chest circumference under the back chest garment is achieved, m2 is set as the side seam point of the front and back chest garments, the length of c1m2 is 22cm (calculation method: chest circumference/4 +1.0cm), and m3m2 is the lower waist line of the back chest garment;

(4) setting m1 point as armhole depth point, m2m1 point as side suture of corsage, which is perpendicular to c1c line segment, m2m1 length is 4.2cm (calculating method: chest circumference/20 cm), back corsage shoulder point d, front corsage shoulder point e, connecting em1 and dm1 to form armhole basic inclined line;

(5) setting a point l as a rear armhole vertical point, a point m as a front armhole vertical point, a point f as a rear armhole radian concave point, a point g as a front armhole radian concave point, a point lf perpendicular to dm1, a point gm perpendicular to em1, a line segment m1l of which the m1 is equal to the m1m of which the m1 is equal to 7.0cm (a calculation method is that the chest circumference is 10-1.4cm), an point lf of which the lf is 5.0cm (a calculation method is that the chest circumference is 10-3.4), a line segment mg of which the m is 3.0cm (a calculation method is that the chest circumference is 10-5.4), connecting e, g, m1, f and d to form a front and rear chest coat armhole arc, and a point m4 as a bra cup lower tangent point, drawing a bra circle, determining an m4 point which is a tightening point which moves down by 1.0cm from the intersection point of the lower waist line and the cup, and forms a downward movement 1.0cm with 3, and plays a symmetrical function of pulling the cup.

2. Cutting method of front cover cloth C and rear cover cloth D

(1) As shown in fig. 1, point k is a front cover cloth lower mouth point, C1k is 6.0cm (calculation method: chest circumference/10-2.4 cm), point o5 is a cup zipper tooth joint point, ko5 is perpendicular to C1k, ko5 is 0.5-1.5 cm in length and is used for meeting the interval between left and right bras of the front chest garment and playing a role in beauty, point j is a front cover cloth armhole cut-and-close point, ej is 5.0cm (calculation method: chest circumference/10-3.4), point p5 is a point half of line section kj, point p3 is a front cover cloth chest type curve point, point p5p3 is perpendicular to kj, point p5p3 is 2.3cm (calculation method: chest circumference/20-1.9), connecting point o3, k, p3, j, 63g, m1, m 84 and m 5 are connected by an arc structure of front cover cloth 85 5 6;

(2) the point h is the back center of the back cover cloth, h is on the line segment ac, ah is 17cm (calculation method: number/4-23 cm), the point i is the lower mouth point of the back cover cloth, di is 5.0cm (calculation method: chest circumference/10-3.4 cm), the point h1 is a vertical point, hh1 is 5.0cm (calculation method: chest circumference/10-3.4 cm), the point p4 is the chest-shaped curved point of the back cover cloth, h1p4 is perpendicular to hi, h1p4 is 2.5cm (calculation method: chest circumference/20-1.7 cm), and h, p4, i, f, m1, m2 and m3 are connected to form a back cover cloth D structure.

3. Cutting method of front elastic band E and rear elastic band F

The length and width of the front elastic band E is 5.0 x 2.0cm, the length and width of the rear elastic band F is 3.0 x 2.0cm, and the front elastic band E is used for meeting the effect of tightening the bust under the corset, the long edge of the front elastic band E is drawn along m2m4, the wide edge is drawn along m2m1, the long edge of the rear elastic band F is drawn along m2m3, and the wide edge is drawn along m2m 1.

4. Cutting method of bra G

(1) The A model tailoring method of the bra G comprises the following steps:

o2 is a cup balance point, c1O2 is 4.4cm (calculation method: bust/10-4, calculated according to bust 84 cm), O is a cup center point (bust height point), O2O is 8.8cm (calculation method: bust/10 +0.4), O3 is a circle radius tangent point, Oo3 is 7.4cm (calculation method: bust/10-1.0), a circle is drawn with Oo3 as a radius, O1 is an undercut point, Oo1 is perpendicular to Oo3, left and right tangent points n and p are distributed on both sides of undercut point O1, arc no1 is po1 is 3.7cm (calculation method: bust/20-0.5), arc no1 and po1 are half-edge way incisions of the circle, and are used for suturing and raising effect.

p1 and p2 are left and right cup curved points, the connecting lines of p1 and p2 and a half point of the radii Op and On are perpendicular to Op and On, the distances between p1 and p2 Op and On are 2.0cm (calculation method: chest circumference/10-6.4), and O, p2, n, o3, p and p1 are connected to form a cup structure, and p and n are connected by a circumferential radian.

(2) B model tailoring method of bra G:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest circumference is 88cm, c1o2 ═ 4.6cm, o2O ═ 9.3cm, Oo3 ═ 7.9cm, and the arc length no1 ═ po1 ═ 4.0cm, which were calculated using the specification difference, set to be: the difference between adjacent c1o2 is 0.2cm (calculation method: chest size difference/10-0.2), the difference between adjacent o2O is 0.5cm (calculation method: chest size difference/10 +0.1), the difference between adjacent Oo3 is 0.5cm (calculation method: chest size difference/10 +0.1), the difference between adjacent arc no1 and po1 is 0.3cm (calculation method: chest size difference/10-0.1), the difference between adjacent ab is 1.0cm (calculation method: clothing length size difference/2), and the difference between adjacent c1c is 1.5cm (calculation method: chest size difference/2-0.5).

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

(3) The C type cutting method of the bra G comprises the following steps:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest circumference was 92cm, calculated according to the specification difference of example 2, with c1o 2-4.8 cm, o 2O-9.8 cm, Oo 3-8.4 cm, and arc length no 1-po 1-4.3 cm.

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

(4) The method for cutting the model D of the bra G comprises the following steps:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest circumference is 96cm, calculated according to the specification difference of example 2, c1o 2-5.0 cm, o 2O-10.3 cm, Oo 3-8.9 cm, and arc length no 1-po 1-4.6 cm.

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

(5) The E model tailoring method of the bra G comprises the following steps:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest circumference is 100cm, calculated according to the specification difference of example 2, c1o 2-5.2 cm, o 2O-10.8 cm, Oo 3-9.4 cm, and arc length no 1-po 1-4.9 cm.

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

(6) The method for cutting the model F of the bra G comprises the following steps:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest size is 104cm, and the calculation is carried out according to the specification difference of example 2, wherein c1o2 is 5.4cm, o2O is 11.3cm, Oo3 is 9.9cm (calculation method: chest size/10-1.0), and the arc length no1 is po1 is 5.2 cm.

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

(7) The method for cutting the model G of the bra G comprises the following steps:

the method is basically the same as the A type cutting method, and is different from the A type cutting method in that: the chest circumference is 108cm, calculated according to the specification difference of example 2, c1o 2-5.6 cm, o 2O-11.8 cm, Oo 3-10.4 cm, and arc length no 1-po 1-5.5 cm.

The p1, p2 distances Op and On are 2.0cm in length.

The bra G is divided into A, B, C, D, E, F, G seven-cup models according to the characteristics, the back length ab of the bra cup from small to large is respectively 27.5cm (corresponding to model 150/76A), 28cm (corresponding to model 152.5/78A), 28.7cm (corresponding to model 155/80A), 30.0cm (corresponding to model 160/84A), 31.3cm (corresponding to model 165/88A), 31.9cm (corresponding to model 167.5/90A), 32.5cm (corresponding to model 170/92A), the lower waist girth c1c of the bra cup from small to large is respectively 29cm (corresponding to model 150/76A), 30cm (corresponding to model 152.5/78A), 31cm (corresponding to model 155/80A), 33cm (corresponding to model 160/84A), 35cm (corresponding to model 165/88A), 36cm (corresponding to model 167.5/90A), 37cm (corresponding to 170/92A) (calculation: chest circumference/2-9 cm). Two medium sizes of 152.5/78A and 167.5/90A are added in the 5 sizes of the corresponding clothes in the seven-large cup type, and the seven-large cup type can be matched with any size of clothes adjacent to two sides when being combined with the clothes.

The front corsage A, the back corsage B, the front cover cloth C, the back cover cloth D and the bra G are all sewed by 1.0cm on the basis of the structure chart, and adopt knitting materials.

5. Front corsage A, back corsage B, front cover cloth C and back cover cloth D sewing method

(1) Respectively sewing the front chest garment A and the rear chest garment B, the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D at the side, as shown in figure 3, as a first chest garment sewing process schematic diagram, as shown in figure 4, as a second chest garment sewing process schematic diagram, as shown in figure 5, as a third chest garment sewing process schematic diagram, wherein the sewing head requires 1.0cm, sewing the front chest garment A and the rear chest garment B, the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D at the lower waistline, and sewing the sewing head requires 1.0 cm;

(2) as shown in fig. 6, which is a schematic view of a back buckle reverse process of the corset, a front corset a and a back corset B which are sewed together are folded back by 1.0cm from a front cover cloth C and a back cover cloth D at the back, as shown in fig. 7, a schematic view of a left zipper process is added to the back of the corset, the front corset a and the back corset B which are sewed together are folded in half from a sewing line at the lower waistline with the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D, and a left zipper is embedded at the back of the corset, as shown in fig. 8, a schematic view of a right zipper process is added to the back of the corset, and a right zipper is embedded at the back of the front corset a and the back corset B which are sewed up symmetrically in mirror image form, and the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D;

(3) as shown in fig. 9, a schematic view of a process for adding elastic bands to the bottom edges of the corsage is that elastic bands are embedded at the bottom ends of the side seams of the sewed front corsage a, the back corsage B, the front cover cloth C and the back cover cloth D for tightening the bottom edges;

(4) as shown in fig. 10, which is a schematic view of a corselet cover cloth fixing process, the outer opening edges of the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D are fixed on the front corselet a and the rear corselet B by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches; the front and back covering cloth is fixedly sewn on the front and back corsets by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches and is used for reinforcing the corsets, supporting and pulling breasts;

(5) as shown in fig. 11, which is a schematic diagram of a front corset armhole edge covering process, corresponding shoulders of a front corset a and a back corset B are sewn to form corset armholes, and the corset armholes are sewn by adopting an edge covering structure and used for reinforcing the corset armholes, as shown in fig. 12, which is a schematic diagram of a corset top fly edge covering process, and the corset top fly is also sewn by adopting an edge covering structure and used for reinforcing the corset top fly.

6. Method for sewing brassiere G

(1) The bra G comprises three parts, namely cover cloth 1, cover cloth 2 and cup plastic bodies, wherein 1.0cm of sewing head is placed on basic structure graphs of the bra G for cutting the cover cloth 1 and the cover cloth 2, the cup plastic bodies are formed by compression molding of a sponge grinding tool, the cup plastic bodies are of a medium-thickness and thin-edge structure, and the thickness is set according to the season conditions of low thickness in summer and high thickness in winter;

(2) as shown in fig. 13, a schematic diagram of a bra cover fabric structure is shown, as shown in fig. 14, a schematic diagram of a bra molding cup body sewing process is shown, a cover fabric 1 and a cover fabric 2 clamp a cup molding body and sew the cup molding body by adopting fancy flat seaming stitches, as shown in fig. 15, a schematic diagram of a zipper sewing process is added to the bra molding cup body, a zipper is embedded in an outer opening of a cup and is used for wearing different women, and the assembly, disassembly and exchange functions are realized simultaneously, as shown in fig. 16, a schematic diagram of a bra cup assembly process is shown, a bra G is sewn at a cut bra G position, as shown in fig. 17, a schematic diagram of a bra cup lacing (or a wind-and-wave buckle) process is shown, and a lacing (or a wind-and-wave buckle) is sewn at the front center of the cup and is used for tightening the bottom end;

(3) as shown in fig. 18, which is a schematic view of a process for sewing the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet to the neck socket of the outer garment, the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet are sewn together with the neck socket of the corselet to form an integrated function, and when the neck of the garment is sewn, the front and rear neck sockets of the corselet are sewn together with the neck socket of the corselet, as shown in fig. 19, which is a schematic view of wearing the corselet and the outer garment.

While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.

Claims

1. The two-in-one tailoring process of women's clothing and corselet is characterized in that the process comprises the following steps of:

(1) cutting a front corsage A and a back corsage B:

(2) cutting the front cover cloth C and the rear cover cloth D:

(3) cutting the front elastic band E and the rear elastic band F:

(4) cutting a bra G:

(6) sewing of brassiere G

2. The two-in-one tailoring process of women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1 wherein in step (1.1), the slopes of the front shoulder slope 1 and the back shoulder slope 1 are lower than the shoulder of the clothing by 0.7 cm; in step (1.5), the cm3 has a length of 1.0 cm.

3. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's garments and corselets according to claim 1 wherein in step (1.4), said m2m1 length is bust/20 cm.

4. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1 wherein in step (1.5), said m1 l-m 1 m-bust/10-1.4 cm, lf-bust/10-3.4 cm, mg-bust/10-5.4 cm.

5. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1, wherein in step (2.1), c1 k-bust/10-2.4 cm, ko5 has a length of 0.5-1.5 cm, ej-bust/10-3.4 cm, and p5p 3-bust/20-1.9 cm.

6. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1 wherein in step (2.2), ah is 4-23cm, di is 10-3.4cm, hh1 is 10-3.4cm, and h1p4 is 20-1.7 cm.

7. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's garments and corselets according to claim 1 wherein, in step (3), the length and width of the front elastic band E is 5.0 x 2.0cm and the length and width of the back elastic band F is 3.0 x 2.0 cm.

8. The two-in-one tailoring process for women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1 wherein in step (4), for a model a brassiere G, the lengths of p1 and p2 from Op and On are bust/10-6.4 cm, c1o2 is bust/10-4 cm, o2O is bust/10 +0.4cm, Oo3 is bust/10-1.0 cm, arc no1 is po1 is bust/20-0.5 cm, the brassiere G draws a circle with Oo3 as a radius, and arc no1 and po1 are half-way incisions of the circle;

9. The two-in-one tailoring process of women's clothing and corsage according to claim 1 wherein in step (5.1), the width of the seam head is 1.0 cm; in step (5.2), the sewn front and rear bodices a and B and the front and rear cover cloths C and D are folded down by 1.0cm at the rear backs thereof.

10. The process of cutting a female garment and a corsage in two according to claim 1, wherein in the step (6), the sewing of the brassiere G comprises: