CN1410016A - Box type prototype of Chinese woman body conformation and its plane drawing method - Google Patents

Abstract

A box-type prototype for Chinese woman's body conformation and its planar chartography are disclosed. The various parts of the said prototype, body height, net chest measurement and net waist measurement have a regression relation between them. The 3-D prototype is constructed by the box-type method. Its advantages are simple equation, simple chart, and high efficiency.

Description

The box prototype and the plane drafting method thereof of China woman build

Technical field:

The invention belongs to clothing engineering and ergonomics research range, relevant with women body underwear structural design, the box prototype of particularly Chinese woman's build and plane drafting method thereof.

Background technology:

Prototype is as the most basic paper mold, and its formation technology is that apparel construction designs the key technology in the especially clothes structure design, has obtained the attention of world clothing circle.Developed country (beautiful, day, Ou Dengguo) has all set up the prototype that meets the home country nationals bodily form and wear custom, and the various schools that form based on the difference of prototype formation solid shape are arranged.The research of China's clothes basic theory is started late, 20 generation strengthened the eighties to the end of the nineties to external prototype, especially with the introduction of the cultural formula prototyping technique of all more approaching Japan of China aspects, promoted the modernization of China's paper mold formation technology, but the knowledgeable people is when fully absorbing, digesting external prototyping technique, recognize that China is a clothes big country, can not rely on the prototyping technique of other country for a long time, set up to meet the Chinese style prototyping technique of the Chinese national bodily form and dress culture thereof.

Summary of the invention:

The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is exactly to set up the box prototype of Chinese woman's build, and proposes the plane drafting method of woman's build box prototype in view of the above.

The present invention adopts international habitual research and measurement means, and the instrument and equipment of standard, adopt direct-type mensuration (Martin's instrument) and indirect type mensuration (3D anthropometric scanning instrument) to obtain the two and three dimensions somatic data, and in conjunction with GB1335.2-91 and international advanced survey body technique, particularly the special measuring point of underwear and method are replenished and are expanded to clothes.Gather China East China, North China, three major region group ages of south China and be 18-59 year totally 2800 woman, after the measurement data at 62 positions, with SAS software is instrument, carries out Mathematical Statistics Analysis, obtains sample average, standard deviation and each thin portion and the regression relation of controlling the position.Set up the box prototype of Chinese woman's build.

Concrete technical scheme of the present invention is:

The box prototype of China woman build is characterized in that: each position of this prototype and control position: height h, clean chest measurement B ^*With clean waistline W ^*Regression relation as follows:

1. throat-waistline=0.2h+2.3cm;

2. front mid-arnhole=0.196B ^*+ 15.8cm;

3. carry on the back length=0.157h+13cm;

4. fan wide=0.164B ^*+ 25.3cm;

5. across back=0.244B ^*+ 13.1cm;

6. shoulder slope angle (α °)=(0.11h+6.3) °;

7. breastheight=0.806h-15.4cm;

8. acromion～preceding armpit height=0.0438h+1cm;

9. Attacking Midfielder joint=throat-waistline+B ^*/ 20+3.5cm=0.21h+5.3cm;

The plane drafting method of the box prototype of China's woman build comprises making two parts of back coat plane and front of clothes plane:

One, the making of back coat plane;

1. make hemline waistline AW=W ^*, cross A and make vertical line AC, and make AC=0.15h+13.5cm, make long back line;

2. cross the C point and make the vertical line of AC, and get CD=B ^*/ 20+3cm is that the collare nest is wide, is designated as ◎, gets ◎/3 and makes the dark DE of collare nest, and make the postfovea camber line;

3. cross the E point and make back upper horizontal line EF ⊥ DE;

4. upper horizontal line EF is that benchmark is upwards apart from B after ^*/ 80cm makes upper horizontal line E ' F ';

5. make BL BUST LINE in upper horizontal line E ' F ' below and apart from the X ' point of 0.1h+8cm, and extend to the X point of the long back line AC of back coat;

6. on BL BUST LINE X ' X, get XJ=0.13B ^*+ 7cm is the across back line, JI=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line of 4cm;

7. leading later wide some E work of nest and the angle of back upper horizontal line EF is 18 ° line, and extends to the back porch oblique line EG at the outer 2cm place of across back, and its length EG is designated as ●;

8. draw along the back armhole camber line;

9. later lead the nest mid point, and line segment is that 2/5 Z of XC does to intersect at N with armhole curve between BL BUST LINE always, and makes the floating surplus B in back ^*/ 40-0.4cm economizes the Armhole dart of cusp at 1/2 M place of this straight line ZN;

(2) making of front of clothes plane:

1.. on preceding center line E ' A ', get with upper horizontal line E ' F ' distance and lead the dark line E ' of nest C ' before doing for the some C ' of ◎+0.5cm, getting E ' D '=◎-0.3cm at upper horizontal line is the wide line E ' of preceding neck nest D ', and draws along preceding nest collaring arc;

2.. the angle of wide some D ' work of neck nest and upper horizontal line E ' F ' is 22 ° crop oblique line D ' G ' before crossing, and D ' G '=EG=●;

3.. on BL BUST LINE XX ', get X ' J '=0.13B ^*+ 5.8cm is a chest breadth, J ' I '=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line W ' I ' of 4cm;

4.. prolong latasuture line W ' I ' to T ', I ' T '=B ^*/ 40+2cm is preceding floating surplus, economizes cusp and economizes at the abjugal suture of the 1/2 front mid-arnhole line M ' of place point;

5.. draw along preceding armhole curve.

Advantage of the present invention is:

1. the measuring point is according to the average analysis and the regression analysis of anthropometric data in conjunction with Human physiology, human motion basis, draw the regression relation at each thin portion of human body and basic position, and regression relation simplified, as the plane drawing formula of prototype, formula has science, practicality, originality.

2. the three-dimensional composition of prototype adopts the box form of the composition, promptly on normal man's platform the floating surplus in the above shirtfront of anter BL is collected with provincial highway, and the floating surplus of the above back of rear panel across back line is collected with provincial highway, makes box prototype figure in line with international standards.

3. with figure and the regression equation of simplification and the prototype that forms altogether of three-dimensional composition, its composition formula is simple, figure is succinct, and utilization conveniently makes paper pattern design work very efficient in paper pattern design.

Description of drawings:

Fig. 1 is the three-dimensional composition figure of prototype of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a prototype plane of the present invention.

The specific embodiment:

See also Fig. 1, the three-dimensional composition of prototype of the present invention is on normal man's platform the floating surplus in the above shirtfront of anter BL BUST LINE to be collected with provincial highway, and the floating surplus of the above back of rear panel across back line is collected with provincial highway, as box prototype figure in line with international standards.

Simplification regression formula of the present invention is:

1. throat-waistline=0.2h+2.3cm;

2. front mid-arnhole=0.196B ^*+ 15.8cm;

3. carry on the back length=0.157h+13cm;

4. fan wide=0.164B ^*+ 25.3cm;

5. across back=0.244B ^*+ 13.1cm;

6. shoulder slope angle (α °)=(0.11h+6.3) °;

7. breastheight=0.806h-15.4cm;

8. acromion～preceding armpit height=0.0438h+1cm;

9. Attacking Midfielder joint=throat-waistline+B ^*/ 20+3.5=0.21h+5.3cm;

Wherein h is a height, B ^*Be clean chest measurement.

The plane drafting method of the present invention China woman build box prototype sees also Fig. 2, comprises the following steps:

One, the making of back coat plane;

1. make hemline waistline AW=W ^*, cross A and make vertical line AC, and measure AC=0.15h+13.5cm, make long back line;

2. cross the C point and make the vertical line of AC, and get CD=B ^*/ 20+3cm is that the collare nest is wide, is designated as ◎, gets ◎/3 and makes the dark DE of collare nest, and make postfovea camber line 1;

3. cross the E point and make back upper horizontal line EF ⊥ DE;

4. upper horizontal line EF is that benchmark is upwards apart from B after ^*/ 80cm makes upper horizontal line E ' F ';

5. make BL BUST LINE in upper horizontal line E ' F ' below and apart from the X ' point of 0.1h+8cm, and extend to the X point of the long back line AC of back coat;

6. on BL BUST LINE X ' X, get XJ=0.13B ^*+ 7cm is the across back line, JI=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line of 4cm;

7. leading later wide some E work of nest and the angle of back upper horizontal line EF is 18 ° line, and extends to the back porch oblique line EG at the outer 2cm place of across back, and its length EG is designated as ●;

8. draw along back armhole camber line 2;

9. later lead the nest mid point, and line segment is that 2/5 Z of XC does to intersect at N with armhole curve between BL BUST LINE always, and makes the floating surplus B in back ^*/ 40-0.4cm economizes the Armhole dart of cusp at 1/2 M place of this straight line ZN.

(2) making of front of clothes plane:

1.. on preceding center line E ' A ', get with upper horizontal line E ' F ' distance and lead the dark line E ' of nest C ' before doing for the some C ' of ◎+0.5cm, getting E ' D '=◎-0.3cm at upper horizontal line is the wide line E ' of preceding neck nest D ', and draws along preceding nest collaring arc 3;

2.. the angle of wide some D ' work of neck nest and upper horizontal line E ' F ' is 22 ° crop oblique line D ' G ' and D ' G '=EG=before crossing ●;

3.. on BL BUST LINE XX ', get X ' J '=0.13B ^*+ 5.8cm is a chest breadth, J ' I '=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line W ' I ' of 4cm;

4.. prolong latasuture line W ' I ' to T ', I ' T '=B ^*/ 40+2cm is preceding floating surplus, economizes cusp and economizes at the abjugal suture of the 1/2 front mid-arnhole line M ' of place point;

5.. draw along preceding armhole curve 4.

Claims (2)

1, the box prototype of Chinese woman's build is characterized in that: each position of this prototype and control position height h, clean chest measurement B ^*With clean waistline W ^*Regression relation as follows:

1. throat-waistline=0.2h+2.3cm;

2. front mid-arnhole=0.196B ^*+ 15.8cm;

3. carry on the back length=0.157h+13cm;

4. fan wide=0.164B ^*+ 25.3cm;

5. across back=0.244B ^*+ 13.1cm;

6. shoulder slope angle (α °)=(0.11h+6.3) °;

7. breastheight=0.806h-15.4cm;

8. acromion～preceding armpit height=0.0438h+1cm;

9. Attacking Midfielder joint=throat-waistline+B ^*/ 20+3.5cm=0.21h+5.3cm;

2, the plane drafting method of the box prototype of Chinese woman's build according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the making two parts that comprise back coat plane and front of clothes plane:

One, the making of back coat plane;

1. make hemline waistline AW=W ^*, cross A and make vertical line AC, and measure AC=0.15h+13.5cm, make long back line;

2. cross the C point and make the vertical line of AC, and get CD=B ^*/ 20+3cm is that the collare nest is wide, is designated as ◎, gets ◎/3 and makes the dark DE of collare nest, and make postfovea camber line (1);

3. cross the E point and make back upper horizontal line EF ⊥ DE;

4. upper horizontal line EF is that benchmark is upwards apart from B after ^*/ 80cm makes upper horizontal line E ' F ';

5. make BL BUST LINE in upper horizontal line E ' F ' below and apart from the X ' point of 0.1h+8cm, and extend to the X point of the long back line AC of back coat;

6. getting XJ=0.13B*+7cm on BL BUST LINE X ' X is the across back line, JI=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line of 4cm;

7. leading later wide some E work of nest and the angle of back upper horizontal line EF is 18 ° line, and extends to the back porch oblique line EG at the outer 2cm place of across back, and its length EG is designated as ●;

8. draw along back armhole camber line (2);

9. later lead the nest mid point, and line segment is that 2/5 Z of XC does to intersect at N with armhole curve (2) between BL BUST LINE always, and makes the floating surplus B in back ^*/ 40-0.4cm economizes the Armhole dart of cusp at 1/2 M place of this straight line ZN;

(2) making of front of clothes plane:

1.. on preceding center line E ' A ', get with upper horizontal line E ' F ' distance and lead the dark line E ' of nest C ' before doing for the some C ' of ◎+0.5cm, getting E ' D '=◎-0.3cm at upper horizontal line is the wide line E ' of preceding neck nest D ', and draws along preceding nest collaring arc (3);

2.. the angle of wide some D ' work of neck nest and upper horizontal line E ' F ' is 22 ° crop oblique line D ' G ' and D ' G '=EG=before crossing ●;

3.. on BL BUST LINE XX ', get X ' J '=0.13B ^*+ 5.8cm is a chest breadth, J ' I '=(B ^*+ 12)/the latasuture line W ' I ' of 4cm;

4.. prolong latasuture line W ' I ' to T ', I ' T '=B ^*/ 40+2cm is preceding floating surplus, economizes cusp and economizes at the abjugal suture of the 1/2 front mid-arnhole line M ' of place point;

5.. draw along preceding armhole curve (4).

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