CN108618245B - Positioning, scribing and typesetting method - Google Patents

Positioning, scribing and typesetting method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108618245B
CN108618245B CN201710162649.7A CN201710162649A CN108618245B CN 108618245 B CN108618245 B CN 108618245B CN 201710162649 A CN201710162649 A CN 201710162649A CN 108618245 B CN108618245 B CN 108618245B
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China
Prior art keywords
fur
fabric
operator
piece
sewing
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201710162649.7A
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CN108618245A (en
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陈志强
张爱萍
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TONGXIANG ZHIQIANG fur DYEING FACTORY
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TONGXIANG ZHIQIANG fur DYEING FACTORY
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Priority to CN201710162649.7A priority Critical patent/CN108618245B/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00Measuring aids or methods
    • A41H1/06Measuring aids or methods in combination with marking
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a positioning, marking and typesetting method, which comprises six steps of pretreatment, proofing, making a setting plate, setting out, marking and positioning, and sewing and setting. According to the invention, the original fur piece is cut into the fur piece, so that the use amount of fur can be effectively saved, and the production cost is radically reduced; the invisible scratching powder is adopted to replace the traditional scratching powder, so that the procedure of removing scratches at the later stage is reduced, and the working efficiency is improved; the method for marking lines on each piece of fabric in the prior art is replaced by the method for marking lines on each piece of fabric in the prior art by making the fixed plate in a unified mode, so that the marked parallel lines are relatively straight, the space is reasonably controlled, the marking and positioning quality and efficiency are improved, and after an upper fur piece is sewn in the later stage, a fur product has layering and elegant feelings and is more attractive.

Description

Positioning, scribing and typesetting method
Technical Field
The invention relates to a sewing positioning method, in particular to a positioning scribing typesetting method.
Background
Along with the improvement of the living standard of people who develop economy, fur products are more and more appeared in the daily life of people, and the traditional fur sewing has no specific method, namely, the fur subjected to cleaning and drying treatment is sewn on the fabric in a whole block, and a fixed template is not arranged during sewing, so that the fur is relatively messy, is relatively wasted and is lack of aesthetic feeling; secondly, when the fur is sewn, the sewing position is mostly determined by manual marking, but in this way, an operator needs to mark on each piece of fabric.
As known in the literature, the feather direction of the fur is the direction from the head to the tail of the animal, and the lateral direction thereof is the direction perpendicular to the feather direction, i.e., the direction from the left front (hind) limb to the right front (hind) limb of the animal.
Invisible chalk is also known as gasified chalk and painting chalk. The line is drawn by a tailor or in the medical industry, and the main components are limestone and gypsum. The main components of the chemical composition are calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate, and a small amount of calcium oxide and metal elements. The function is as follows: the device has the characteristic of automatic disappearance or immediate disappearance after ironing, and the gasification time is closely related to the depth of the scribing force, the air temperature and the humidity, and can be adjusted according to the scribing force; and generally can automatically disappear after 48 to 168 hours, the surface of the fabric is treated by special coating without hands, and the fabric is harmless to human bodies.
At present, the mode that an operator directly performs marking and positioning on a fabric by utilizing a special cutting ruler and marking chalk is a common fabric positioning mode, so that each fabric needs to be marked and positioned, the workload is huge, the intervals of marked parallel lines are not as wide, and the straight drawing is not easy to perform. Therefore, a new technical solution is provided to solve the above problems.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a positioning, scribing and typesetting method which has the advantages of accurate positioning and easy straight drawing of parallel lines.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: a positioning, scribing and typesetting method comprises the following steps,
step a, pretreatment: cutting the original fur along the fur direction to prepare a long-strip fur piece;
step b, proofing: firstly, determining the style, the fabric and the pattern of clothing according to the requirements of a customer, then, according to the cutting rule of clothing design, performing proofing on proofing paper through measurement and calculation, then, cutting the proofing paper to manufacture cut pieces, and then, enlarging the size codes to manufacture pattern paper;
step c, making a fixed plate: firstly, drawing a plurality of parallel lines on the sample plate paper prepared in the step b by using invisible scratch and a ruler by an operator, and then sewing on a sewing machine according to the drawn scratch to obtain a fixed plate;
step d, lofting: an operator firstly places the fixed plate prepared in the step c on a working panel, and then flatly lays the fabric on the fixed plate and enables the fabric and the fixed plate to be overlapped;
step e, marking and positioning: an operator uses the invisible scribing powder to sequentially scribe lines on the fabric, so that a positioning line section required by fur sewing is drawn on the fabric;
f, sewing and shaping: b, sequentially sewing the fur pieces prepared in the step a on the fabric along the track of the positioning line segment by an operator by using a flat car sewing machine;
in the step e, an operator firstly touches the fabric with fingers, and when the operator feels the bulge below the fabric, the invisible scratching powder is used for marking and positioning along the position of the bulge, so that a positioning line segment required by sewing fur is drawn on the fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, in the step a, the cutting and sewing of the fur replace the direct sewing of the whole fur in the traditional process, so that the use amount of the fur can be effectively reduced, and the production cost is further reduced; secondly, the fur is cut along the fur direction, and the length direction of the fur piece is consistent with the direction of the fiber tissue of the original fur, so that the tensile strength is higher, and the durability is better; in the step b, by manufacturing the uniform template paper, the standardized manufacturing of the same batch of fabric at the later stage is facilitated, so that the fabric is cut and sewn more accurately and efficiently; secondly, the sample plate paper with the size codes can meet the requirements of people with more body types, so that the sample plate paper is more convenient and effective when the ready-made clothes are sewn in the later period; in step c, an operator can ensure that all straight lines drawn by the straight ruler and the right-angle set square are parallel to each other by drawing the straight lines; in the step d, an operator can more accurately and conveniently mark on the fabric to determine the sewing position in the later period by mutually overlapping the fabric and the fixed plate and placing the fabric above the fixed plate; in the step e, when an operator carries out marking and positioning on the fabric by adopting the invisible marking powder, the position and the length of the fur piece to be sewn in the later period can be clearly determined, so that the later period sewing is more convenient and efficient; in the step f, an operator replaces the traditional manual sewing by sewing the fur piece by using the sewing machine, so that the sewing speed is increased, the stitch sizes are consistent when the fur piece is sewn, and the sewing quality is higher; the invisible scratching powder is adopted to replace the common scratching powder, and the invisible scratching powder has the characteristic of automatically disappearing or immediately disappearing after ironing, so that the procedure of removing scratches at the later stage can be reduced, and the process flow can be further reduced; in addition, the raw materials of the invisible scratching powder are calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate which are harmless to human bodies, and a small amount of calcium oxide and metal elements, so that the environment is effectively protected, and unnecessary harm to operators and users is avoided; the operator can effectively save the scribing time and improve the scribing efficiency by adopting the method for scribing, and the requirements on operators are reduced while the scribing quality is ensured, so that the popularization can be further expanded.
The invention is further configured to: in the step a, an operator firstly sprays water on the raw fur to moisten the raw fur for 15-20min, then the raw fur is fixed on a working panel by a long nail to be transversely stretched, then a fur cutting machine is adopted to cut the raw fur into strips, and then the operator manually stretches and flares the raw fur longitudinally to obtain the flapped fur piece.
By adopting the technical scheme, the water spraying treatment is carried out on the fur, so that the fur is not torn when being stretched, and the flexibility of the fur is improved; secondly, stretching along the transverse direction of the original fur, so that the original fur tissue deforms in the transverse direction, the down-fur direction of the original fur becomes the longitudinal direction, and then longitudinally cutting the original fur, so as to obtain a long-strip fur; and then the long-strip fur is stretched in the longitudinal direction, so that the long-strip fur tissue is restored to the original state, and a widened fur piece longer than the original fur is obtained under the condition of not damaging the original tissue of the fur piece, the using amount of the fur is effectively saved, and the cost is further saved.
The invention is further configured to: firstly, carding the width-expanded fur piece along the direction of the fur, then blowing and drying the width-expanded fur piece by electric air blow after fluffing treatment, and then carrying out edge locking treatment on the width-expanded fur piece to obtain a long-strip fur piece.
By adopting the technical scheme, the fur on the fur piece can be more fluffy and elegant by carding and fluffing the fur piece, so that the actual sewing gap of the fur piece can be conveniently measured and calculated in the follow-up process; in addition, the fur piece is subjected to the overlocking treatment, so that the fur on the fur piece can be effectively prevented from scattering, and the fur piece is firmer and more durable.
The invention is further configured to: in step c, the operator measures and calculates the width of the fur in the fluffy state and the width of the fur in the furled state, and determines the actual gap for sewing the fur piece.
By adopting the technical scheme, in the step c, an operator calculates the most appropriate sewing distance according to the measured filling power of the fur in different states, so that the fur can show the layering sense and the elegant sense of the fur in any state.
The invention is further configured to: when an operator sews the sample plate paper by a flat sewing machine, the linear stitch of the adjustable single-side presser foot is selected, and the length of the stitch is set to be 2-4 mm.
By adopting the technical scheme, the operator adopts a straight stitch instead of a herringbone stitch or a hand-made stitch, so that the operator can accurately mark a straight line during marking; secondly, by setting the length of the stitches, an operator can more smoothly mark and position the stitches, and the marked lines are more uniform and clearer.
The invention is further configured to: in the step d, an operator lays the fabric on the fixed plate flatly by using the strip-shaped pressing block.
By adopting the technical scheme, the pressing block is adopted for fixing, so that the sliding and the deviation between the fabric and the fixed plate can be effectively prevented, the deviation of an operator from an original track in the process of marking is effectively avoided, and unnecessary loss and waste can be reduced.
The invention is further configured to: on the working panel, an operator firstly presses one end of the overlapped fabric and the fixed plate by a pressing block; then, the operator pushes the pressing block towards the other end of the fabric while pressing the fabric, so that the pressing block presses the edge part of the fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, the fabric and the fixed plate are fixed by adopting the method, so that the problem that the scribing of an operator is influenced due to the existence of the pressing block is avoided, and the fabric and the fixed plate are smoother without generating folds or distortion, so that the scribing positioning is more accurate.
In conclusion, the beneficial effects of the invention are as follows: according to the invention, the original fur piece is cut into the fur piece, so that the use amount of fur can be effectively saved, and the production cost is radically reduced; secondly, the invisible scratching powder is adopted to replace the traditional scratching powder, so that the procedure of removing scratches at the later stage is reduced, and the working efficiency is improved; and then, the traditional method of respectively marking on each piece of fabric is replaced by uniformly marking through manufacturing the fixed plate, so that the workload is reduced, and the quality and the efficiency of marking and positioning are improved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the process of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Example 1:
a kind of layout method by positioning and marking out, as shown in FIG. 1, includes the following steps:
step a, pretreatment: firstly, in order to prevent the fur from being torn when the fur is stretched, an operator sprays water on the original fur and wets the original fur for 15 min; then, fixing the original fur on the working panel by using long nails for stretching in the transverse direction, so that the original fur tissue deforms in the transverse direction; then, cutting the original fur along the fur direction by adopting a 1810 cutting machine; then, in order to restore the long-strip fur tissue to the original state, obtaining an expanding fur piece longer than the original fur under the condition of not damaging the original tissue of the fur piece, and then enabling the fur direction to be the longitudinal direction, and manually stretching and expanding the fur piece longitudinally by an operator to obtain the expanding fur piece; then carding the width-expanded fur piece along the direction of the fur, and then drying the leather by using a blower with the model number of LH-900 after fluffing treatment; in order to effectively prevent the fur on the fur piece from scattering, the base overlock stitching method is adopted to overlock the widened fur piece to obtain a long-strip fur piece;
step b, proofing: firstly, determining the style, the fabric and the pattern of clothing according to the requirements of a client, then, according to the cutting rule of clothing design, performing proofing on proofing paper through measurement and calculation, then, cutting the proofing paper to manufacture cut pieces, and then, enlarging the size of the cut pieces to meet the requirements of more body-type people to manufacture sample plate paper;
step c, making a fixed plate: firstly, an operator measures and calculates the width of the fur in a fluffy state to determine the actual gap for sewing the fur piece, then the operator uses the invisible scratch powder, a straight ruler and a right-angle triangular ruler to draw a plurality of parallel lines on the sample plate paper prepared in the step b, then a straight line stitch of the adjustable single-side presser foot is selected on a flat car sewing machine with the model of 111-3, and a fixed plate with the stitch length of 2mm is sewn according to the scratch;
step d, lofting: on the working panel, firstly, an operator overlaps the fixed plate manufactured in the step c and the fabric needing to be subjected to pattern drawing mutually, then in order to enable the fabric and the fixed plate to be smoother, the scribing and positioning are more accurate, no fold or distortion is generated, the operator presses the overlapped fabric and one end of the fixed plate by using a long-strip-shaped pressing block, then one hand presses the fabric, the other hand holds the pressing block, the pressing block is pushed towards the other end of the fabric, and finally the pressing block presses the edge part of the fabric, so that the fabric is flatly paved on the fixed plate, and the part of the fabric needing to be scribed is not pressed;
step e, marking and positioning: an operator firstly touches the fabric with fingers, when the operator feels the bulge below the fabric, the invisible scribing powder is used for scribing and positioning along the position of the bulge, and then the scribing is sequentially carried out according to the method, so that the positioning line section required by sewing fur is drawn on the fabric;
f, sewing and shaping: and (c) sewing the fur pieces prepared in the step (a) on the fabric along the track of the positioning line segment by adopting a flat car sewing machine with the model number of 111-3 by an operator.
Example 2:
a kind of positioning, scribing and typesetting method, the difference with embodiment 1 mainly includes: the method comprises the following steps of:
step a, pretreatment: firstly, in order to prevent the fur from being torn when the fur is stretched, an operator sprays water on the raw fur, the operator sprays water on the raw fur to wet the raw fur for 18min, then the raw fur is fixed on a working panel by long nails to be transversely stretched, then an artificial fur laser cutting machine with the model of TSC-190140LD is adopted to cut the raw fur along the fur direction, and then the operator manually stretches and expands the fur longitudinally to obtain an expanded fur piece; then carding the width-expanded fur piece along the direction of the fur, and then naturally airing the width-expanded fur piece after fluffing treatment; in order to effectively prevent the fur on the fur piece from scattering, the widened fur piece is subjected to edge locking treatment by adopting a twisting type lock stitch method to obtain a long-strip-shaped fur piece;
step b, proofing: firstly, determining the style, the fabric and the pattern of clothing according to the requirements of a client, then, according to the cutting rule of clothing design, performing proofing on proofing paper through measurement and calculation, then, cutting the proofing paper to manufacture cut pieces, and then, enlarging the size of the cut pieces to meet the requirements of more body-type people to manufacture sample plate paper;
step c, making a fixed plate: firstly, an operator measures and calculates the width of the fur in a fluffy state and the width of the fur in a furled state to determine the actual gap for sewing the fur piece, then the operator uses invisible scratch powder, a straight ruler and a right-angle triangular ruler to draw a plurality of parallel lines on the sample plate paper prepared in the step b, then a straight line stitch is selected on a Jack flat car sewing machine with the model number of 8500, and a fixed plate with the stitch length of 3mm is sewn according to the scratch;
step d, lofting: on the working panel, an operator firstly overlaps the fixed plate prepared in the step c and the fabric needing to be subjected to pattern drawing, and then in order to enable the fabric and the fixed plate to be smoother, the scribing and positioning are more accurate, and no folds or distortions are generated, the operator fixes the two ends of the overlapped fabric and the fixed plate by using 4 dovetail clamps with the specification of 32 mm;
step e, marking and positioning: an operator firstly uses invisible marking powder to mark and position a fabric by adopting a 45-degree short oblique line, draws a positioning line section required by sewing fur on the fabric, and then further deepens the color of the line by using a transverse straight line;
f, sewing and shaping: and (c) sewing the fur pieces prepared in the step (a) on the fabric along the track of the positioning line segment by adopting a Jack flat car sewing machine with the model number of 8500 by an operator.
Example 3:
a kind of positioning, scribing and typesetting method, the difference with embodiment 1 mainly includes: the method comprises the following steps of:
step a, pretreatment: firstly, in order to prevent fur from being torn when the fur is stretched, an operator sprays water on the raw fur to wet the raw fur for 20min, then fixes the raw fur on a working panel by using an air nail to stretch longitudinally, then stretches and expands the width transversely, and then adopts a fur cutting machine with the model BK to cut the raw fur along the fur direction to obtain an expanded leather part; then carding the width-expanded fur piece along the direction of the fur, and then drying the fur piece by an HWIR300B-1 industrial hot air blower after fluffing; in order to effectively prevent the fur on the fur piece from scattering, the widened fur piece is subjected to serging treatment by adopting a closed stitch serging needle method to obtain a long-strip fur piece;
step b, proofing: firstly, determining the style, the fabric and the pattern of clothing according to the requirements of a client, then, according to the cutting rule of clothing design, performing proofing on proofing paper through measurement and calculation, then, cutting the proofing paper to manufacture cut pieces, and then, enlarging the size of the cut pieces to meet the requirements of more body-type people to manufacture sample plate paper;
step c, making a fixed plate: firstly, an operator measures and calculates the width of fur in a furled state to determine the actual gap for sewing fur pieces, then the operator uses invisible powder-drawing and two right-angle triangular squares to draw a plurality of parallel lines on the sample plate paper prepared in the step b, then on an Olympic flat car sewing machine with the model of RN-2013D, a linear stitch of an adjustable single-side presser foot is selected, and a fixed plate with the stitch length of 4mm is sewn according to scratches;
step d, lofting: on the working panel, an operator firstly overlaps the fixed plate prepared in the step c and the fabric needing to be drawn, and then fixes the overlapped fabric and the two ends of the fixed plate by 8 paper clips in order to enable the fabric and the fixed plate to be smoother, more accurate in marking and positioning and free from wrinkles or distortion;
step e, marking and positioning: an operator uses the invisible scribing powder to sequentially and transversely scribe lines on the fabric by virtue of scribing experience, so that a positioning line section required for sewing fur is drawn on the fabric;
f, sewing and shaping: and (c) sequentially sewing the fur pieces prepared in the step (a) on the fabric along the track of the positioning line segment by adopting an Olympic flat car sewing machine with the model number of RN-2013D by an operator.

Claims (7)

1. A positioning, scribing and typesetting method is characterized in that: comprises the following steps of (a) carrying out,
step a, pretreatment: cutting the original fur along the fur direction to prepare a long-strip fur piece;
step b, proofing: firstly, determining the style, the fabric and the pattern of clothing according to the requirements of a customer, then, according to the cutting rule of clothing design, performing proofing on proofing paper through measurement and calculation, then, cutting the proofing paper to manufacture cut pieces, and then, enlarging the size codes to manufacture pattern paper;
step c, making a fixed plate: firstly, drawing a plurality of parallel lines on the sample plate paper prepared in the step b by using invisible scratch and a ruler by an operator, and then sewing on a sewing machine according to the drawn scratch to obtain a fixed plate;
step d, lofting: an operator firstly places the fixed plate prepared in the step c on a working panel, and then flatly lays the fabric on the fixed plate and enables the fabric and the fixed plate to be overlapped;
step e, marking and positioning: an operator uses the invisible scribing powder to sequentially scribe lines on the fabric, so that a positioning line section required by fur sewing is drawn on the fabric;
f, sewing and shaping: b, sequentially sewing the fur pieces prepared in the step a on the fabric along the track of the positioning line segment by an operator by using a flat car sewing machine;
in the step e, an operator firstly touches the fabric with fingers, and when the operator feels the bulge below the fabric, the invisible scratching powder is used for marking and positioning along the position of the bulge, so that a positioning line segment required by sewing fur is drawn on the fabric.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein: in the step a, an operator firstly sprays water on the raw fur to moisten the raw fur for 15-20min, then the raw fur is fixed on a working panel by a long nail to be transversely stretched, then a fur cutting machine is adopted to cut the raw fur into strips, and then the operator manually stretches and flares the raw fur longitudinally to obtain the flapped fur piece.
3. A method of layout by alignment scribing as claimed in claim 2, wherein: firstly, carding the width-expanded fur piece along the direction of the fur, then blowing and drying the width-expanded fur piece by electric air blow after fluffing treatment, and then carrying out edge locking treatment on the width-expanded fur piece to obtain a long-strip fur piece.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein: in step c, the operator measures and calculates the width of the fur in the fluffy state and the width of the fur in the furled state, and determines the actual gap for sewing the fur piece.
5. The method of claim 4, wherein the layout method comprises: when an operator sews the sample plate paper by a flat sewing machine, the linear stitch of the adjustable single-side presser foot is selected, and the length of the stitch is set to be 2-4 mm.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein: in the step d, an operator lays the fabric on the fixed plate flatly by using the strip-shaped pressing block.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein: on the working panel, an operator firstly presses one end of the overlapped fabric and the fixed plate by a pressing block; then, the operator pushes the pressing block towards the other end of the fabric while pressing the fabric, so that the pressing block presses the edge part of the fabric.
CN201710162649.7A 2017-03-18 2017-03-18 Positioning, scribing and typesetting method Expired - Fee Related CN108618245B (en)

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