RU2530360C1 - Method of constructing template of magyar sleeve and its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: method of constructing a template of Magyar sleeve and its manufacture, which comprises constructing of the back and the forepart using standard measurements of dimensional signs, standard designations and calculations of the segment sizes, the back and the forepart are located one above the other in the upper and lower parts formed by the intersection of vertical and horizontal axes of coordinate symmetrically relative to the vertical, with the formation of the neck line around the point of intersection of the axes, and the end shoulder point of the forepart is defined by the intersection of two arcs, one of which is drawn up to the right from the point of intersection of the waist line of the forepart with the vertical value equal to the shoulder height of the oblique forepart with the addition, the other - down to the right from the base point of the neck with the value equal to the length of the shoulder slope with the addition, which combining with the end point of shoulder of the back, intersects the horizontal line, forming a point from which the desired sleeve length extends to the right on the horizontal line, the width of which is formed by a line segment drawn from this point parallel to the vertical line to the intersection with the horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole of the back and the forepart, and the line of the lower cut of the sleeve is made by smooth curves each of which connects the ends of the segment which determines the width of the sleeve and the end points that determine the width of the product by the waist line of the forepart and the back, respectively. Then an oval area is cut out, which is bounded by the lines of the neck, and two triangular areas, each of which is bounded by the lines of the shoulder slopes of the back and the forepart and the line of connection of their shoulder end points, the template is cut on the horizontal axis, the template parts are superimposed on the tracing paper, spreading them symmetrically with the horizontal axis up and down by an amount depending on the desired size of the sleeve, but not less than the size of the technological outsize for processing the shoulder seam, with the further contour looping and cutting, placing the resulting template on the material, cutting out and subsequent technological treatment having special aspects which are the formation of the assembly in the line connecting the end points of the shoulder slopes of the back and the forepart, forming the sleeve head, sewing the shoulder cuts, inseaming the sleeve head with combining the cuts of the upper part of the sleeve cap with the end point of the shoulder seam, formed by shoulder end points connected together to form a line of the armhole at the upper part of the sleeve.

EFFECT: reduction of time for manufacturing the sleeve and the product in general, simplifying the method of constructing a sleeve.

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Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing sleeve patterns.

During the patent search, an analogue was adopted, adopted as a prototype [Design of men's and women's clothing: Textbook. for the beginning. prof. Education / B.S. Sakulin, E.K. Amirova, O.V. Sakulina, A.T. Trukhanova. - M .: IRPO; Ed. Center "Academy", 2000, 48-56 S.]. During the construction, standard designations of dimensional signs and calculations of the sizes of segments were used.

The objective of the invention is, firstly, to reduce the time spent on the manufacture of the sleeve and the product as a whole, and secondly, to simplify the method of constructing the sleeve.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that in the method of constructing a template of a one-piece sleeve and its manufacture, including the construction of a back and a shelf using typical measurements of dimensional signs, standard designations and calculation of the sizes of segments, the back and shelf are located one below the other in the upper and lower parts, formed by the intersection of the vertical and horizontal coordinate axes, symmetrically with respect to the vertical, with the formation of a neckline around the point of intersection of the axes, and the shoulder point of the shelf is determined by the intersection of two arcs, one of which is drawn upward from the point of intersection of the waistline of the shelf with a vertical value equal to the height of the shoulder of the oblique shelf with an increase, the other is drawn downward from the base of the neck with an amount equal to the length of the shoulder slope with an increase, which, connecting with the end point of the shoulder of the back, crosses the horizontal, forming a point from which the desired length of the sleeve is laid to the right horizontally, the width of which is formed by a straight line drawn from this point parallel to the vertical to the intersection with the horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole of the back and the shelf, and the line of the lower cut of the sleeve is formed by smooth curves, each of which connects the ends of the segment that defines the width of the sleeve and the end points that determine the width of the product along the waist line of the shelf and back, respectively, and then cut I cut the oval region bounded by the neck lines and two triangular regions, each of which is limited by the lines of the shoulder slopes of the back and the shelf and the line connecting their extreme shoulder points t the template along the horizontal axis, impose the template parts on the tracing paper, spreading them symmetrically to the horizontal axis up and down by an amount that depends on the desired sleeve volume, but not less than the technological allowance for processing the shoulder seam, with further contouring and cutting, layout of the resulting template on the material, cutting and subsequent processing, which has the features that consist in the formation of the assembly along the line connecting the end points of the shoulder slopes of the back and shelves, the formation of dexterous sleeve shoulder SEWING slices stitch head sleeve sections combining the upper part of the sleeve doused with at shoulder seam point formed connected together end points of the shoulder to form armholes line in the upper part of the sleeve.

The invention is presented in the figures.

Figure 1 - The basic design of a one-piece sleeve.

Figure 2 - Layout template on tracing paper.

Figure 3 - Appearance of a one-piece sleeve:

a) - short with a minimum volume;

b) - extended with assembly;

c) - elongated with folds.

The construction of the sleeve template begins with two mutually perpendicular axes of symmetry, with the intersection at point A ₀ , on which the back, shelf and whole-cut sleeve are further constructed.

To find the level of the waist lay between points A ₀ up interval T ₀ axis A, equal to:

$${\text{BUT}}_{\text{0}}T=Dt\mathrm{from}+Pdt\mathrm{from},$$

where Dts - the distance from the waist line behind to the highest point of the shoulder seam;

PDTS - an increase to the length of the back to the waist, equal to 0.5-1.0 cm.

Through the obtained point T draw a straight line parallel to the horizontal axis. On this, the segment equal to:

$${\text{TT}}_{\text{one}}=\frac{\mathrm{one}}{2}\mathrm{FROM}t+Pt,$$

where St - half waist;

Fri - an increase in the semi-circumference of the waist, depending on the degree of fit (tight-fitting: 0.5-1.0; fitting: 1.0-1.5; loose: 1.5-2.0).

To find the depth of the armhole of the back from point A ₀ lay up a distance equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_{0}G=\mathrm{AT}PRs+P\mathrm{from}PR+0.5Pdt\mathrm{from},$$

where Vprz - the distance from the highest point of the shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the level of the posterior angles of the axillary hollows.

Pspr - an increase in the freedom of the armhole (in depth), equal to 1.5-2.5 cm.

Through the found point G, a straight line is drawn parallel to the horizontal axis.

To build the neckline, the position of two points is calculated: A ₂ is the highest point of the shoulder seam at the base of the neck and A ₁ . The position of point A ₂ governs the segment A ₀ A ₂ , pending along the horizontal axis to the right and equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_0{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="BUT"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">BUT</figure-callout>}}_2=\mathrm{FROM}w/3+Pwg,$$

Пшг - an increase to the width of the neck of the back, equal to 0.5-1.0 cm. Point A _{1 is} obtained by restoring the perpendicular from point A ₂ upwards by an amount corresponding to the depth of the neck of the back:

$${\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="BUT"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">BUT</figure-callout>}}_2{\mathrm{BUT}}_{\mathrm{one}}={\mathrm{BUT}}_0{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="BUT"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">BUT</figure-callout>}}_2/3+P\mathrm{at}g\mathrm{from},$$

where Pvgs is an increase to the height of the neck of the back, equal to 0-0.2 cm.

From point A ₁ draw a perpendicular to the midline of the back A ₀ T and get point A. The line of the neck form a smooth curve from point A to point A ₁ .

The position of the shoulder line of the back is determined by the points: A ₂ and point P ₁ - the end of the shoulder seam. To determine the position of point P ₁ from point A ₂ to the right upward, draw the first arc with a compass, the radius of which is $${\mathrm{BUT}}_2{P}_{\mathrm{one}}=WP+PP\mathrm{about}\mathrm{from},$$

where Cn is the width of the shoulder slope;

Ppos - allowance for planting tissue, equal to 0.5-1.0 cm.

From point T draw a second arc to the right down to the intersection with the first arc with a radius equal to:

$$T{P}_{\mathrm{one}}=\mathrm{AT}P\mathrm{to}\mathrm{from}+Pdt\mathrm{from},$$

where VPKS - the height of the shoulder, oblique from the point of intersection of the waist line with the spine to the end point of the shoulder seam of the back;

PDTS - an increase to the length of the waist of the back, equal to 0-0.2 cm.

At the intersection point of two arcs get the point P ₁ .

The construction of the shelves begins with finding the waist line. To do this, from the point A ₀ on the vertical axis down lay a segment equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_0{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="T"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">T</figure-callout>}}_2=DtP+PdtP,$$

where accident - the length of the shelves to the waist;

ПДТП - an increase to the length of the front of the front, equal to 0.5-0.6 cm.

Through the resulting point T ₂ draw a straight line parallel to the horizontal axis. On this line, the segment equal to:

$$T_2{T}_3=\frac{\mathrm{one}}{2}\mathrm{FROM}t+Pt,$$

where Fri is an increase to the waist semi-girth, depending on the degree of fit (tight-fitting: 0.5-1.0; adjacent: 1.0-1.5; loose: 1.5-2.0).

To find the depth line of the armhole of the shelf from point A ₀ on the vertical axis downward, lay a distance equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_0{G}_{\mathrm{one}}=\mathrm{AT}PRs+P\mathrm{from}PR+0.5PdtP,$$

where Vprz - the distance from the highest point of the shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the level of the posterior angles of the armpits;

Pspr - an increase in the freedom of the armhole (in depth), equal to 1.5-2.5 cm.

Through the resulting point G ₁ draw a straight line parallel to the horizontal axis.

To determine the depth of the neck shelves set aside from point A ₀ down along the vertical axis a segment equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_0{\mathrm{BUT}}_5={\mathrm{BUT}}_0{\mathrm{BUT}}_2+\mathrm{one}\mathrm{from}m.$$

Points A ₂ and A _{5 are} connected by a smooth curve, forming the line of the neck of the shelf.

The position of the shoulder line of the shelf is determined by points A ₂ and P ₂ . To determine the point P ₂ from the point T ₂ with a radius equal to:

$$T_2{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="P"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">P</figure-callout>}}_2=\mathrm{AT}P\mathrm{to}P+PdtP,$$

where VPKP - shoulder height slanting shelves,

draw an arc up to the right. From point A ₂ on this arc make a notch with a radius equal to:

$${\mathrm{BUT}}_2{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="2"\; label="P"\; filenames="00000015.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">P</figure-callout>}}_2=WP+PP\mathrm{about}\mathrm{from},$$

where Cn is the width of the shoulder slope;

Ppos - landing allowance equal to 0.5-1.0 cm, receiving at the intersection of arcs point P ₅ .

Connect the points P ₁ and P ₂ . At the intersection of the segment P ₁ P ₂ with the horizontal axis drawn through point A ₀ , get point "a".

Connect the points P ₁ , P ₂ , A ₂ together. From the intersection point "a" lay to the right along the horizontal axis the desired length of the sleeve, getting the point a ₁ . Through a point a ₁ draw a line parallel to the vertical axis of symmetry, until it intersects with straight lines that determine the depth of the armhole of the back and the shelf, receiving respectively the points G ₂ , G ₃ . Next, make out a smooth curve of the lower sections of the whole-cut sleeve, passing to the back - T ₁ G ₂ and the shelf - T ₃ G ₃ .

Carry out a similar construction of the second part of the structure, symmetrical with respect to the vertical, designating the corresponding points of symmetry with strokes: A ′ ₁ , A ′ ₂ , P ′ ₂ , P ′ ₁ , a ′, a ′ ₁ , G ′ ₂ , G ′ ₃ , T ′ ₁ , T ′ ₃ .

Cut out the area bounded by points A, A ₂ , P ₁ , P ₂ , A ₂ , A ₅ and A ₂ , P ₁ , P ₂ , A ₂ .

Next, a drawing is cut along the horizontal axis.

The parts of the template are placed on the tracing paper, spreading symmetrically to the horizontal axis up and down by an amount depending on the desired sleeve volume, but not less than the technological allowance for processing the shoulder seam (1.3x2) cm. Draw borders and cut out the area bounded by points a ′, P ₁ , A ₂ , A, A ₂ , P ₁ , a, a, P ₂ , A ₂ , A ₅ , A ₂ , P ₂ , a, taking into account the technological allowances for processing the shoulder seam, neck and stitching the top of the okat sleeves.

The manufacture of the sleeve is as follows.

1) Put a pattern of tracing paper on the fabric, outline the contours of the template, cut out.

2) Make out the head of the sleeve, collecting the segment P ₁ P ₂ on a rare line, forming an assembly along the upper part of the sleeve ridge, or lay the fold according to the model (figure 2).

3) Stitch sections A ₂ P ₁ and A ₂ P ₂ , receiving the shoulder seam, further processing of which is carried out according to standard technology.

4) Sew in the sleeve head, combining sections of the upper part of the sleeve ridge with the extreme point of the shoulder seam formed by the points P ₁ and P ₂ connected together, forming an armhole line in the upper part of the sleeve.

5) Further processing of the product is performed according to standard technology.

The technical result of the invention:

1) Reduction of time costs by reducing measurements of dimensional features of the figure.

2) Reducing time costs by reducing the complexity of the layout of the product template, numbering of cut details.

3) No need to build separate drawings of the backrest, sleeve shelves, which is convenient for the designer.

4) The ability to create a wide range of original models of the sleeve by varying the magnitude of the extension of the template, with the receipt of the sleeves; meeting the trends of modern fashion.

5) Reducing the time spent on technological processing of the product, namely, the exact fit of the shoulder girdle, due to the assembly or folding (according to the model) of the sleeve head at the point of attachment to the shoulder cut.

6) The simplicity of the design of the sleeve, reducing the time of its design.

7) Reduction of material costs due to more rational use of the material and the maximum reduction in the percentage of interleuky attacks.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a one-piece sleeve template, including the construction of a back and a shelf using standard measurements of dimensional attributes, standard notation and calculation of the sizes of segments, characterized in that the back and a shelf are located one above the other in the upper and lower parts formed by the intersection of the vertical and horizontal coordinate axes, symmetrically with respect to the vertical, with the formation of a neckline around the point of intersection of the axes, and the final shoulder point of the shelf is determined by the intersection of two d, one of which is drawn to the right upward from the point of intersection of the waistline of the shelf with a vertical equal to the height of the shoulder of the oblique shelf with an increase, the other to the right downwards from the point of the base of the neck with an amount equal to the length of the shoulder slope with the increase, which, connecting with the end point of the shoulder the back, crosses the horizontal, forming a point from which the desired length of the sleeve is laid horizontally to the right, the width of which is formed by a straight line drawn from this point parallel to the vertical to the intersection with the horizontal lines the depth of the armhole of the back and the shelf, and the line of the lower cut of the sleeve is formed by smooth curves, each of which connects the ends of the segment that defines the width of the sleeve and the end points that determine the width of the product along the waist line of the shelf and back, respectively, after which the oval region bounded by the neck lines is cut out , and two triangular areas, each of which is limited by the lines of the shoulder slopes of the back and the shelf and the connection line of their extreme shoulder points, cut the pattern along the horizontal axis, overlap parts of the pattern and tracing paper, spreading them symmetrically to the horizontal axis up and down by an amount depending on the desired sleeve volume, but not less than the technological allowance for processing the shoulder seam, with further contour contouring and cutting, layout of the resulting template on the material, cutting and subsequent technological processing, having features consisting in the formation of the assembly along the line connecting the end points of the shoulder slopes of the back and the shelf, the formation of the sleeve head, the grinding of shoulder sections, the stitching of the head Sleeve ki registration slices upper part of the sleeve doused with at shoulder seam point formed connected together end points of the shoulder to form armholes line in the upper part of the sleeve.

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