RU2688372C1 - Method of pattern making and template for its implementation - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: manufacturing technology.SUBSTANCE: group of inventions is intended for making sets of patterns. Template for pattern making represents shoulder or belt article containing three layers of material, wherein upper and lower layers of material are made of at least three layers of stretchable plastic film, and layer between layers of paper is made. Method of making the pattern involves removing the paper layer from the template for making the pattern and involves the following stages: template is applied on a human body for making a pattern according to the shape of the shoulder or waist article; combining the lines of presumed sutures with the human body, stapling the template to the human body with smoothing motions; constructing the lines of the future article on the template without removing it from the person; cutting the template along the structural lines so that it can be removed from the human body without deformation; template is cut into the number of parts required for cutting; parts are transferred to additional material (paper) or fabric for subsequent cutting and sewing.EFFECT: simple and high accuracy of the process of taking measurements, as well as making it possible to manufacture sewing articles without blending.2 cl

Description

The group of inventions is intended for the manufacture of a set of patterns that are used for cutting fabric and further tailoring of clothes corresponding to the shape of the human body.

There is a method of forming a garment corresponding to the shape of the body of the individual (RU 2270593, published 27.02.2006). A method of manufacturing a piece of clothing suitable to the body shape of an individual, according to which all surfaces of an individual's body are measured in tight underwear or without underwear using a non-contact three-dimensional body measurement system; prepare the sewing model data from the obtained electronic measurement data; then transmitting the sewing model data to an automatic cutter for cutting fabric into pieces of fabric and making a garment from them, and preparing the sewing model data by transferring measurement data to a computer that stores reference point data for the human body in relation to this garment; display on the screen automatically selected control points corresponding to the sewing model of the garment selected by the individual; determine some of the reference points to automatically obtain the appropriate size values for specific reference points from the measurement data; displaying the sewing model for the item number of the selected garment, corresponding to the standard body shape available in the computer, and specifying the standard body sizes; automatically inputting individual size values into the original template and changing the positions of the characteristic points on the original template in accordance with the body reference points to generate the sewing model sizes that exactly match the individual, with the preparation of the sewing model data.

The disadvantages of the known technical solution is the inability to use a wide range of people due to the need to use expensive equipment, the devices are difficult to use and do not allow to take all the necessary measurements, such as for example the depth of the armhole, the height of the seat. At the same time, the person from whom the measurements are taken is uncomfortable due to the fact that his figure must be stationary during the measurement.

It is also known a device for measuring the size of an object, described in the patent of the Russian Federation 2251382 for the invention “Device for contactless removal of the projection dimensions of an object” with priority from 03/31/2004. This device contains a turning circle with a fixed center and a measuring device including a transparent screen with a calibration grid applied to it, a drawing board and a laser emitter built into the crossbar of the drawing board lines. The laser emitter is provided with a pointer to the vertical and horizontal coordinates, and a grid of coordinates is plotted on the transparent screen. The object to be measured is placed behind the screen on the turntable, divided into sectors and equipped with a stopper by sectors.

This device is also complex, has large dimensions and cannot be used on its own without the help of a specialist, which eliminates the possibility of measuring the parameters of a person’s figure in a domestic environment.

The closest technical solution chosen as a prototype is an elastic standard for contactless removal of measures (RU 149647, published 01/10/2015) from a human or animal figure, either in the form of a jumpsuit, fastened with a zipper with a hood or without a hood, or as a set consisting of separate items of clothing; the standard contains an elastic base, of a specific size, and inextensible graphic elements of a certain shape and size, fixed on the outer surface of the elastic base, possessing dimensional stability and inextensibility in all directions and serving as a dimensional standard; the form, number and location of inextensible graphic elements are chosen in accordance with the standard size of the standard.

The disadvantage of the prototype is the need to use additional equipment and software in conjunction with this device, which makes it impossible to use the device for a wide range of people.

The task of the claimed invention is to eliminate the above disadvantages.

The technical result, the achievement of which is aimed at making the pattern and device for its implementation is to simplify the process of creating clothes because there is no need to take measurements and produce complex calculations, as well as to create the possibility of making garments without fittings.

To achieve the above technical result, a method for producing a pattern and a template for its implementation are proposed.

Template for making patterns, which is shaped like a shoulder or waist product, containing three layers of material, with the upper and lower layers of material made of at least three layers of a stretchable plastic film, and a layer of paper is made between the layers, while the stretchable plastic film is cut through The paper layer and the edges of the template are sealed at the intended seams.

The template for the manufacture of the pattern is created from a stretchable plastic film that serves for the packaging of any goods (mainly from the stretch film). The stretch film is laid on the conveyor in at least three layers. On the three-layer film are laid out paper patterns of shoulder or waist products with a shape resembling the product, the pattern of which is necessary to obtain, but of an increased size (product with a short sleeve, with a long one, pants, skirt, etc.). On top of the paper templates are covered with a similar layer of stretch film, laid in at least three layers. According to the shape of the paper template, the film is cut, i.e. form of stretch film takes the form of a pattern of paper. Along the supposed seams, the edge is soldered with allowance for soldering. Thus, a pattern is obtained from a stretchable plastic film that can be worn on the body, after removing the layer from the paper. A layer of paper is used to prevent layers of stretchable plastic film from sticking together. When a person puts on a pattern of stretchable plastic film, the tailor combines the shoulder lines and side lines with the supposed seams of clothing and smoothing movements glues the device to the human body. Next, the film draws the constructive lines of the future product (darts, armholes, decorative lines and parts, etc.) to highlight the details of the future product. The form of the stretch film is cut along the structural lines so that the product can be removed without deformation. Next, the pattern is cut into the number of parts required for cutting and the pattern is transferred onto the paper or directly onto the fabric for subsequent cutting of the fabric.

A method of making patterns includes the following stages:

a) a layer of paper is removed from the pattern making pattern;

b) a person puts on a template for making a pattern in the shape of a shoulder or waist product on the body;

c) the tailor combines the lines of the intended seams with the human body, gluing the template to the human body with smoothing movements;

d) the tailor draws the constructive lines of the future product (darts, armholes, decorative lines and parts, etc.) without removing the template from the person;

e) the template is cut along construction lines so that it can be removed without deformation;

f) the template is cut into the number of parts required for cutting;

g) parts are transferred to additional material (paper) or fabric for the subsequent cutting and sewing of the product;

Consider an example of the implementation of the claimed method using the claimed template on the example of creating a pattern of trousers. We use the template for the manufacture of the pattern, which is a form of stretchable plastic film in the form of pants with a paper layer inside, the edges of the template are sealed along the supposed seams. After removing the paper layer, the template is put on the person, the tailor combines the side lines with the supposed seams of clothing and smoothing movements glues the device to the human body. Next, the tailor on the template, while this template remains worn on the person, draws (for example, a felt-tip pen or tailor's chalk) the constructive lines of the future trousers: side and stepped seams, the sid line, the location and the length of the codpiece (zippers under the bar), the entry lines in the front pockets, the seam lines of the back pockets of the desired shape. Next, the template is cut along the design lines so that the person can remove the template without deformation. The tailor cuts the pattern into the required number of details for cutting and transfers the pattern to paper or fabric. The proposed method and template for its implementation allow to take into account all the nuances of the human figure, including the asymmetry of the figure.

Analysis of the patent and scientific literature did not reveal technical solutions with a similar set of essential features, which allows us to conclude that the criterion "novelty" of the claimed invention meets the criteria.

The inventive essential features that determine the receipt of the specified technical result, not explicitly follow from the prior art, which allows to make a conclusion about the compliance of the claimed invention to the condition of patentability "inventive step".

Claims (8)

1. Template for the manufacture of patterns, which is shaped like a shoulder or waist product, containing three layers of material, characterized in that the upper and lower layers of material are made of at least three layers of stretchable plastic film, and a layer of paper is made between the layers, stretchable plastic film is cut in the form of a layer of paper and the edges of the template are sealed along the supposed seams. 2. A method of making a pattern, comprising, first of all, removing a layer from a pattern for making a pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that it includes the following steps: a) on the body of a person for whom it is necessary to make a pattern, put on a template for the manufacture of the pattern according to claim 1 in the form of a shoulder or waist product; b) align the lines of the intended stitches with the human body, apply a pattern to the human body with smoothing movements; c) draw the constructive lines of the future product on the template, without removing it from the person; d) cut the template along the construction lines so that it can be removed from the human body without deformation; e) the pattern is cut into the number of parts required for cutting; f) parts are transferred to additional material (paper) or fabric for the subsequent cutting and tailoring of the product.