CN103610256B - KND original number tailoring method of clothing shoulder piece - Google Patents
KND original number tailoring method of clothing shoulder piece Download PDFInfo
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- CN103610256B CN103610256B CN201310507220.9A CN201310507220A CN103610256B CN 103610256 B CN103610256 B CN 103610256B CN 201310507220 A CN201310507220 A CN 201310507220A CN 103610256 B CN103610256 B CN 103610256B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a KND clothing original number tailoring method of a clothing shoulder piece. Clothing original numbers of the shoulder width, the front overlap width, the collar length, the armhole, the chest circumference, the clothing length and the like are determined according to human body measurement data. Shoulder piece dividing is directly achieved in a clothing piece forming board supported by the clothing original numbers by a front shoulder dividing line K and a shoulder piece rear dividing line D. The KND clothing tailoring method is accurate and fast in drawing and tailoring, the clothing comfort degree is high, the requirement for fast changing of clothing of a clothing market can be met, and the KND clothing tailoring method of the clothing shoulder piece is simple, practical and convenient to use.
Description
Technical field
the present invention relates to clothes making technology for making field, especially relate to a kind of former figure tailoring method of KND of the clothing shoulder sheet based on human body raw measurement data.
Background technology
the clothes fashion of shoulder sheet segmentation is various, the orientation of cut-off rule, length, moulding and front and back garment piece whether adaptation to human comfort, to tailoring manufacture all cause close important.The proportional type of existing tailoring making sheet technology, fundamental mode, D type ... etc. multiple cutting-out method, all with drawing separately the method for cutting out shoulder sheet, most is representational is Japanese New Culture prototype, employing is less than clothing specification, is greater than the numerical computations of human body surface picture sanction dress model plate, contrast prototype board again and estimate that garment piece profiled sheeting cut out by picture, result not only makes prototype board waste, and the relation of the connecting line such as the cut-off rule of profiled sheeting shoulder sheet and armhole only judges by rule of thumb.Along with consumer is to the raising of clothes individual requirement, the clothes fashion change demand of these technology inadaptable marketizations of taking as the leading factor with experience, and the trial-manufacturing process of clothes is long, needs the many manpower and materials of cost and time, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.Publication date is on September 19th, 2007, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN101036537A discloses a kind of 180 ° of digitalized clothing plate making technical schemes, it adopts angle, numeral, equation to calculate, and makes clothing plate making technology have science, regularity, broad spectrum activity.Its core technology is: shoulder moulding with 180 °, 181 °, 182 °, 183 ° ... angle represents or 6.8,6.7,6.6,6.5 ... numerical calculation, armhole depth formula: average armhole depth × 0.85=the best sleeve mountain calculates, and mountain BICEP of tucking inside the sleeve can be determined by ideal simultaneously.There is the problem that cannot make shoulder sheet and garment piece accurate fit in the shoulder slope that above-mentioned technical method is fixed and shoulder slope amount, the shape-designing of shoulder sheet is subject to many limitations, cannot meets the cutting requirement that consumer changes the style of clothes.
Summary of the invention
the object of the invention is: the shoulder cutting plate solving prior art draw existing for sanction method time-consuming longer, rate request and clothes that garment market change dress ornament cannot be met to the problem of human comfort difference, provide a kind of cutting fast, the former figure tailoring method of KND of precision that garment market converts dress ornament and rate request, clothing shoulder sheet that comfort level is good can be met.
above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly solved by following technical proposals: a kind of former figure tailoring method of KND of clothing shoulder sheet, comprises the following steps:
a. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination shoulder breadth, folded gate-width, collar, armhole, chest measurement, clothing length.
the former number of clothes adds based on human body raw measurement data the clothing product specification value put loose measure and style variable quantity and determine, it has considered clothes fashion and this two large factor of human comfort.Former figure tailoring method is a kind of newly-created tailoring basic theory, relates to many positions in tailoring field.Such as, for the people that shoulder breadth is 38, China travelling trader can be defined as 39 their shirt shoulder breadth, 41 are defined as without shoulder seam easy dress shoulder breadth, Muscovite travelling trader then can according to their dressing habit, the shirt shoulder breadth of the people of this kind of shoulder breadth is defined as 43, is defined as 45 without shoulder seam easy dress shoulder breadth.But the actual shoulder breadth not marking the human body of affiliated specification is how many, shoulder breadth amplification quantity is how many.Therefore, does is the style variable quantity comprised in each specification how many in the face of a clothes order? there is no definite numerical basis.Prior art draw cut out without the dress model plate of style name, drafting fundamental mode figure be less than clothing specification, be greater than human body surface, dream up out without the clothes numerical value of style variable quantity, lacking the numerical value of the large factor of clothes two, is cause one of dress model plate, fundamental mode figure key factor lacking practical use.And former figure tailoring method directly designs cutting clothing cutting plate according to the former number of clothes, the shoulder sheet key element split meets the former number of clothes, can meet the dressing habit of various crowd and change and comfort level demand the style of clothes.
determine shoulder sheet before cut-off rule code name be K, shoulder sheet after cut-off rule code name be D, collar cut-point code name is N.
sheet and the cutting of garment piece co-design will be takeed on, first program: the stopper line that 1, picture is vertical on one deck front cut pieces material, with folded gate-width for spacing, with clothing length for length picture clothing parallel with stopper line center line, the hemline that flat picture 1/4 chest measurement is long left in clothing center line lower end also extends to stopper line the right-hand member of hemline, the long point of clothing is determined in clothing center line upper end, with the long point of clothing for starting point, flat picture horizontal open-neck collar line determination collar-shoulder point is needed by clothes fashion, horizontal open-neck collar line is extended for shoulder breadth/2 and determines 1 shoulder breadth point, according to the shoulder slope amount that style needs, vertically draw shoulder slope amount line by 1 shoulder breadth point and determine the shoulder point edge of a knife, by strokes and dots shoulder broken line in the shoulder point edge of a knife to horizontal open-neck collar line.
the unnecessary panel materials of stitching and cutting off and takeing on beyond sheet oblique line is not put to the shoulder sheet oblique line that seam line drawing is parallel with shoulder broken line by 1 shoulder breadth point, determine that more than shoulder broken line is for crop sheet, crop sheet is turned down to take on broken line for axis, drawing cut-off rule K before shoulder sheet according to turning down the shoulder sheet oblique line come, then down drawing vertical line from collar-shoulder point and takeing on before sheet that cut-off rule is crossing determines collar cut-point N.
collar line after up drawing to horizontal open-neck collar line mid point according to the camber that style needs from collar cut-point along horizontal open-neck collar line drawing to the long point of clothing, from collar cut-point down to clothing center line to seam line drawing front neck contour, do not put collar line after seam cutting.
determine armhole depth according to the former number of armhole, upwards draw side seam line determination armhole depth point with line parallel in clothing by hemline left end, armhole line, back armhole line before from shoulder point to armhole depth strokes and dots.
put seam cutting garment piece motherboard according to shoulder point, back armhole line, side seam line, hemline, then to put before seam cutting shoulder sheet armhole line before cut-off rule to this section of the edge of a knife, then shoulder sheet is rolled up.
by about the material of cutting rear garment piece to folding rear clothing center line, to be placed on below garment piece motherboard and the clothing center line of the garment piece motherboard that aligns, according to garment piece motherboard shouldering sheet oblique line and rear collar linear slit position cutting rear garment piece profiled sheeting, then to remove rear garment piece profiled sheeting; Put seam together according to the front armhole line below cut-off rule, front neck contour, stopper line and crop cut-off rule before shoulder sheet and motherboard is cut to front cut pieces profiled sheeting.
second program: take on high in sheet calculating with the long * 0.13=of clothing, cut-off rule D after cut-off rule point flat picture shoulder sheet after the long point of the clothing of rear clothing center line down determines shoulder sheet, after cut-off rule moving one after foundation shoulder sheet, the position cutting of clothing seam is partitioned into shoulder sheet motherboard, the broken line clothing center line of shoulder sheet motherboard being placed on the panel materials of left and right doubling aligns, cut-off rule after shoulder sheet is copied according to shoulder sheet motherboard, then split linear slit position after moving down a shoulder sheet, describe the edge of a knife according to motherboard and be placed with the relative elements cutting shoulder sheet profiled sheeting stitching position.Prior art designs separately shoulder sheet, cannot clearly set up and clothing length, armhole, shoulder broken line that collar is corresponding, garment sewing, whole scald after often have garment piece striped to be twisted problem.The present invention first determine garment sewing, whole scald after the shoulder broken line of actual needs, solve this problem well.
as preferably, in step I, after described shoulder sheet, the height of cut-off rule can need fine setting according to clothes fashion, and cutting divides cutting on the basis of the shoulder sheet motherboard cut off to take on sheet profiled sheeting after fine adjustment.
as preferably, in step c, the subsidiary edge of a knife of described shoulder broken line, no matter how the height of crop sheet cut-off rule changes, all instruct operator sleeve center line counterpart to be made by the edge of a knife as benchmark, guarantee that shoulder sheet, garment piece, sleeve sheet striped are not twisted, make whole clothing smooth comfortable.
flat picture of the present invention refers to the horizontal setting-out of " one " font of left and right directions, and vertical picture refers to the vertical setting-out of " 1 " font of above-below direction.In addition, the present invention only relates to the shoulder sheet partition, cutting technology of former figure tailoring method series, the picture sanction method of other position clothes key element or has been carried out another item patent of invention and has been declared, the present invention does not relate to, do not describe the core content of another item patent of invention, and these the present invention do not relate to or the clear place described all can adopt the routine of prior art to draw sanction method.In addition, title of the present invention and code name only represent the difference with other method of cutting out, and cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothes profiled sheeting by the technology of the present invention, model is used for the clothing cutting plate that batch production cut out by picture, also directly can be drawn by cloth and be cut into the cut-parts of single-piece tailored costume.The computing formula of institute of the present invention foundation determines through verification experimental verification many times the clothes of different size, facts have proved that it is for the good applicability of the equal tool of clothes of different size, according to said method calculate setting-out and cut out clothes, not only simple and fast, and accuracy is very high, the human comfort of clothes is fine.The present invention does not in addition draw and cuts out non-targeted cardboard to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, just can realize goal of the invention according to the former number design of clothes, is a kind of garment cutting method of simple and practical, environmental protection and energy saving.
the invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the shoulder cutting plate solving prior art draw existing for sanction method time-consuming longer, rate request and clothes that garment market change dress ornament cannot be met to the problem of human body comfort difference, realize a kind of cutting fast, the former figure tailoring method of KND of precision that garment market converts dress ornament and rate request, clothing shoulder sheet that comfort level is good can be met.
Accompanying drawing explanation
fig. 1 is a kind of cutting schematic diagram of clothing shoulder sheet of the present invention;
fig. 2 is the overall cutting schematic diagram of one of the former figure tailoring method of KND of clothing shoulder sheet of the present invention.
in figure: 1. clothing center line, 2. hemline, the 3. long point of clothing, 4. horizontal open-neck collar line, 5. collar-shoulder point, 6. 1 shoulder breadth point, 7. take on point, 8. takes on broken line, .9. collar line, 10. front neck contour after, 11. side seam line, 12. armhole depth points, armhole line before 13., 14. back armhole lines, 15. rear garment piece seam positions, split linear slit position, 17. stopper lines after 16. shoulder sheets, K. cut-off rule before shoulder sheet, N. collar cut-point, cut-off rule after D. shoulder sheet.
Detailed description of the invention
below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
embodiment 1
in embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, a kind of former figure tailoring method of KND of clothing shoulder sheet, comprises the following steps:
a. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination shoulder breadth, folded gate-width, collar, armhole, chest measurement, clothing length.
determine shoulder sheet before cut-off rule code name be K, shoulder sheet after cut-off rule code name be D, collar cut-point code name is N.
sheet and the cutting of garment piece co-design will be takeed on, first program: the stopper line 17 that 1, picture is vertical on one deck front cut pieces material, with folded gate-width for spacing, with clothing length for length picture clothing parallel with stopper line center line 1, the hemline 2 that flat picture 1/4 chest measurement is long left in clothing center line lower end also extends to stopper line the right-hand member of hemline, the long point 3 of clothing is determined in clothing center line upper end, with the long point of clothing for starting point, the horizontal open-neck collar line 4 of flat picture is needed to determine collar-shoulder point 5 by clothes fashion, horizontal open-neck collar line is extended for shoulder breadth/2 and determines 1 shoulder breadth point 6, according to the shoulder slope amount that style needs, vertically draw shoulder slope amount line by 1 shoulder breadth point and determine the shoulder point edge of a knife 7, by strokes and dots shoulder broken line 8 in the shoulder point edge of a knife to horizontal open-neck collar line.
the unnecessary panel materials of stitching and cutting off and takeing on beyond sheet oblique line is not put to the shoulder sheet oblique line that seam line drawing is parallel with shoulder broken line by 1 shoulder breadth point, determine that more than shoulder broken line is for crop sheet, crop sheet is turned down to take on broken line for axis, drawing cut-off rule K before shoulder sheet according to turning down the shoulder sheet oblique line come, down drawing vertical line from collar-shoulder point and takeing on before sheet that cut-off rule is crossing determines collar cut-point N.
collar line 9 after up drawing to horizontal open-neck collar line mid point according to the camber that style needs from collar cut-point along horizontal open-neck collar line drawing to the long point of clothing, from collar cut-point down to clothing center line to seam line drawing front neck contour 10, do not put collar line after seam cutting.
determine armhole depth according to the former number of armhole, upwards draw side seam line 11 with line parallel in clothing by hemline left end and determine armhole depth point 12, armhole line 13, back armhole line 14 before from shoulder point to armhole depth strokes and dots.
put seam cutting garment piece motherboard according to shoulder point, back armhole line, side seam line, hemline, then to put before seam cutting shoulder sheet armhole line before cut-off rule to this section of the edge of a knife, then shoulder sheet is rolled up.
by about the material of cutting rear garment piece to folding rear clothing center line, to be placed on below garment piece motherboard and the clothing center line of the garment piece motherboard that aligns, according to garment piece motherboard shouldering sheet oblique line and rear collar linear slit position cutting rear garment piece profiled sheeting, then remove rear garment piece profiled sheeting; Put seam together according to the front armhole line below cut-off rule, front neck contour, stopper line and crop cut-off rule before shoulder sheet and motherboard is cut to front cut pieces profiled sheeting.
second program: take on high in sheet calculating with the long * 0.13=of clothing, cut-off rule D after cut-off rule point flat picture shoulder sheet after the long point of the clothing of rear clothing center line down determines shoulder sheet, after cut-off rule moving one after foundation shoulder sheet, position 15 cutting of clothing seam is partitioned into shoulder sheet motherboard, the broken line clothing center line of shoulder sheet motherboard being placed on the panel materials of left and right doubling aligns, cut-off rule after shoulder sheet is copied according to shoulder sheet motherboard, then split linear slit position 16 after moving down a shoulder sheet, describe the edge of a knife according to motherboard and be placed with the relative elements cutting shoulder sheet profiled sheeting stitching position.Here the high distance for cut-off rule D after clothing long point to shoulder sheet in shoulder sheet.
in the step I of above-described embodiment, after described shoulder sheet, the height of cut-off rule can need fine setting according to clothes fashion, and cutting divides cutting on the basis of the shoulder sheet motherboard cut off to take on sheet profiled sheeting after fine adjustment.
in the step c of above-described embodiment, the subsidiary edge of a knife of described shoulder broken line, no matter how the height of crop sheet cut-off rule changes, and all instructs operator sleeve center line counterpart to be made by the edge of a knife as benchmark, guarantee that shoulder sheet, garment piece, sleeve sheet striped are not twisted, make whole clothing smooth comfortable.
the clothes of method of cutting out of the present invention to different style type are all applicable, and do not draw sanction non-targeted paperboard graphics in addition to compared estimate, additionally do not produce waste paper garbage, have easy to operate, the features such as shoulder sheet dividing method is simply accurate, time-consuming longer existing for the shoulder sheet segmentation picture sanction method solving prior art, the problem of the comfortableness difference of rate request that garment market changes dress ornament and clothes cannot be met, realize a kind of cutting quick, precision and rate request that garment market converts dress ornament can be met, the former figure tailoring method of KND of the clothing shoulder sheet that comfortableness is good.
Claims (3)
1. the former figure tailoring method of the KND of clothing shoulder sheet, is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination shoulder breadth, folded gate-width, collar, armhole, chest measurement, clothing length;
B. determine shoulder sheet before cut-off rule code name be K, shoulder sheet after cut-off rule code name be D, collar cut-point code name is N;
C. sheet and the cutting of garment piece co-design will be takeed on, first program: the stopper line (17) that 1, picture is vertical on one deck front cut pieces material, with folded gate-width for spacing, with clothing length for length picture clothing parallel with stopper line center line (1), the hemline (2) that flat picture 1/4 chest measurement is long left in clothing center line lower end also extends to stopper line the right-hand member of hemline, the long point (3) of clothing is determined in clothing center line upper end, with the long point of clothing for starting point, the horizontal open-neck collar line (4) of flat picture is needed to determine collar-shoulder point (5) by clothes fashion, horizontal open-neck collar line is extended for shoulder breadth/2 and determines 1 shoulder breadth point (6), according to the shoulder slope amount that style needs, vertically draw shoulder slope amount line by 1 shoulder breadth point and determine the shoulder point edge of a knife (7), by strokes and dots shoulder broken line (8) in the shoulder point edge of a knife to horizontal open-neck collar line,
D. the unnecessary panel materials of stitching and cutting off and takeing on beyond sheet oblique line is not put by 1 shoulder breadth point to the shoulder sheet oblique line that seam line drawing is parallel with shoulder broken line, determine that more than shoulder broken line is for crop sheet, crop sheet is turned down to take on broken line for axis, drawing cut-off rule K before shoulder sheet according to turning down the shoulder sheet oblique line come, down drawing vertical line from collar-shoulder point and takeing on before sheet that cut-off rule is crossing determines collar cut-point N;
E. collar line (9) after up drawing to horizontal open-neck collar line mid point according to the camber that style needs from collar cut-point along horizontal open-neck collar line drawing to the long point of clothing, from collar cut-point down to clothing center line to seam line drawing front neck contour (10), do not put collar line after seam cutting;
F. determine armhole depth according to the former number of armhole, upwards draw side seam line (11) with line parallel in clothing by hemline left end and determine armhole depth point (12), armhole line (13), back armhole line (14) before from shoulder point to armhole depth strokes and dots;
G. according to shoulder point, back armhole line, side seam line, hemline puts seam cutting garment piece motherboard, then to put before seam cutting shoulder sheet armhole line before cut-off rule to this section of the edge of a knife, then is rolled up by shoulder sheet;
H. by about the material of cutting rear garment piece to folding rear clothing center line, to be placed on below garment piece motherboard and the clothing center line of the garment piece motherboard that aligns, according to garment piece motherboard shouldering sheet oblique line and rear collar linear slit position cutting rear garment piece profiled sheeting, then to remove rear garment piece profiled sheeting; Put seam together according to the front armhole line below cut-off rule, front neck contour, stopper line and crop cut-off rule before shoulder sheet and motherboard is cut to front cut pieces profiled sheeting;
I. the second program: take on high in sheet calculating with the long * 0.13=of clothing, cut-off rule D after cut-off rule point flat picture shoulder sheet after the long point of the clothing of rear clothing center line down determines shoulder sheet, after cut-off rule moving one after foundation shoulder sheet, position (15) cutting of clothing seam is partitioned into shoulder sheet motherboard, the broken line clothing center line of shoulder sheet motherboard being placed on the panel materials of left and right doubling aligns, cut-off rule after shoulder sheet is copied according to shoulder sheet motherboard, then split linear slit position (16) after moving down a shoulder sheet, describe the edge of a knife according to motherboard and be placed with the relative elements cutting shoulder sheet profiled sheeting stitching position.
2. the former figure tailoring method of KND of clothing shoulder sheet according to claim 1, it is characterized in that in step I, after described shoulder sheet, the height of cut-off rule can need fine setting according to clothes fashion, and cutting divides cutting on the basis of the shoulder sheet motherboard cut off to take on sheet profiled sheeting after fine adjustment.
3. the former figure tailoring method of KND of clothing shoulder sheet according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that in step c, the subsidiary edge of a knife of described shoulder broken line, no matter how the height of crop sheet cut-off rule changes, all operator is instructed sleeve center line counterpart to be made by the edge of a knife as benchmark, guarantee that shoulder sheet, garment piece, sleeve sheet striped are not twisted, make whole clothing smooth comfortable.
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| CN201310507220.9A CN103610256B (en) | 2013-10-23 | 2013-10-23 | KND original number tailoring method of clothing shoulder piece |
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| RU2253335C1 (en) * | 2003-09-15 | 2005-06-10 | Ларина Валентина Акимовна | "let us sew without trying-on" method for plotting of bodice pattern |
| JP3671401B2 (en) * | 2002-05-08 | 2005-07-13 | 雅子 山▲崎▼ | Measuring instrument and prototype drawing method |
| CN1762275A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for setting girth size of men's clothes with six patches |
| CN101036537A (en) * | 2006-10-29 | 2007-09-19 | 朱孟清 | 180 DEG digitalized clothing plate making technique |
| CN101116553A (en) * | 2006-08-02 | 2008-02-06 | 胡亨有 | AH/2 adjusting degree technics compressibility cutting process |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
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2013
- 2013-10-23 CN CN201310507220.9A patent/CN103610256B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP3671401B2 (en) * | 2002-05-08 | 2005-07-13 | 雅子 山▲崎▼ | Measuring instrument and prototype drawing method |
| RU2253335C1 (en) * | 2003-09-15 | 2005-06-10 | Ларина Валентина Акимовна | "let us sew without trying-on" method for plotting of bodice pattern |
| CN1762275A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for setting girth size of men's clothes with six patches |
| CN101116553A (en) * | 2006-08-02 | 2008-02-06 | 胡亨有 | AH/2 adjusting degree technics compressibility cutting process |
| CN101036537A (en) * | 2006-10-29 | 2007-09-19 | 朱孟清 | 180 DEG digitalized clothing plate making technique |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
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