CN107411207A - Clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method - Google Patents
Clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method Download PDFInfo
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- CN107411207A CN107411207A CN201710562771.3A CN201710562771A CN107411207A CN 107411207 A CN107411207 A CN 107411207A CN 201710562771 A CN201710562771 A CN 201710562771A CN 107411207 A CN107411207 A CN 107411207A
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- collar
- neck
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- wide
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of clothes to connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method, according to the clothing specification original number such as wide, folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in the upper neck of clothes fashion determination, the leading and moulding of split head is controlled by leading line NG, the space to be formed using leading chest to save obtains the tape edge position of lower bottom collar and upper collar, reach leading to be seamlessly connected with split head, realize it is a kind of cut it is quick, can meet that precision rate request that garment market convert to dress ornament and the good clothes of comfortableness connect collar NG originals number and design cutting-out method.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing method of cutting out, more particularly to a kind of even refuted based on clothes fashion and the clothes of comfortableness
Lead NG originals number design cutting-out method.
Background technology
Clothes fashion is changed for the clothes leading moulding with split head and comfortable features of clothing is critically important, most representational at present
Japanese prototyping first draws cutting cloth piece prototype board with non-clothes original number, then puts prototype board and cut out garment piece, neck piece to gesturing respectively,
In the presence of neck piece lining the problem of cutting out can not be disposably drawn in flakes with front cut pieces.Publication date is on April 6th, 2016, Publication No.
CN105455277A Chinese patent document discloses a kind of VU originals number design cutting-out method of clothes turndown collar, according to clothes fashion
The related specification original number such as width in neck is determined, determines to turn over the basic gradient of over-lapping stitch, fold line for lapel by controlling over-lapping stitch VU, obtains turndown collar and loosen
Amount.Solve prior art to present in the position design method it is time-consuming it is longer, garment market can not be met to clothes fashion
The problem of precision rate request and comfortable features of clothing difference of conversion.Realize a kind of original precisely brief, comfortable features of clothing is good
Number design effect.But the method for cutting out of above-mentioned clothes turndown collar is not suitable for garment piece and connects collar design cutting, can not meet current
The requirement of precision and speed that garment market converts to dress ornament.
The content of the invention
The purpose of the present invention is:Solve prior art the even neck piece lining present in collar clothes fashion tailoring process without
Method disposably draws the problem of cutting out in flakes with front cut pieces, there is provided a kind of cutting is quick, can meet what garment market converted to dress ornament
Precision and rate request and the good clothes of comfortableness connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method.
The present invention is that technical scheme is used by solving above-mentioned technical problem:A kind of clothes connect the design of collar NG originals number and cut out
Method is cut, is comprised the following steps:
A. according to the clothing specification original number such as wide, folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in the upper neck of clothes fashion determination.
B. front and rear garment piece figure of the design cutting-out method completion including leading chest to save, the root in front cut pieces figure are saved by garment collar chest
According to clothes fashion need height routinely determine the first button point along clothing center line, according to folded gate-width specification outside clothing center line it is parallel
Door line is folded in line drawing in clothing.
C. be based on the flat picture control over-lapping stitch of former shoulder line right-hand member, wide * 0.8 in control over-lapping stitch length=lower neck, with the height such as the first button point,
Over-lapping stitch is turned over to over-lapping stitch right-hand member picture is controlled by folded door line, then over-lapping stitch will be turned over and extended upwards, it extends segment length=rear collar line(Rear garment piece
On part)Length, it is wide in wide+lower neck in control base length=upper neck by extension upper end flat picture control baseline to the left, by neck chest
Province's position alignment control baseline left end of province, neck baseline is drawn more than former shoulder line, lead baseline length=rear collar line.Here rear collar
Line length refers to this part collar line length on rear garment piece.
D. the lower neck for drawing 1 centimeter length to the right perpendicular to neck baseline upper end warps line, respectively in following neck it is wide with upper neck
Wide specification value is extension amount, the line right-hand member that warped based on lower neck is extended wide point in the lower neck of determination, then extends and draw the wide line in neck(I.e.
Lower neck warps the line right-hand member length that width is put into lower neck as width values in lower neck, and the right part length of wide point is in upper neck in lower neck
Width values), line right-hand member is warped to leading baseline lower end to descend bottom collar line to position of provinceing picture again by lower neck, the lower bottom collar line below former shoulder line it is curved
Curvature is consistent with upper collar line.
E. by holding the leading line of picture under lower collar line level with both hands, leading line length routinely determines according to style, in upper neck
The wide line right-hand member is to leading line drawing neckline baseline, by drawing neck stopper line to leading line right-hand member in the middle part of neckline baseline, with the first button
Point draws split head stopper line for height, by folded door line to leading line right-hand member.Here leading line length, upper neck stopper line and split head is stopped
Mouth line form, depending on being needed according to style, if necessary, upper neck and split head are combined protuberance and can be also drawn as without sophisticated circle
Arc leads shape.
F. it is based on wide point in lower neck, smoothly docks parallel to lower bottom collar line drawing fold line for lapel and with turning over over-lapping stitch, according to sewing work
It is width that skill needs, (wide i.e. by the corresponding tape edge of sewing tech requirements increase parallel to front cut pieces wheel hub outline tape edge line
Degree), along the related front cut pieces for having upper and lower inner collar material of tape edge line clipping, then the seam borderline node by lower bottom collar and upper collar is downward
It is vertical to draw vermicelli tape edge line, along vermicelli tape edge line and profile tape edge line clipping, picture vermicelli wheel hub line is then mended, that is, obtaining related has
Company's collar vermicelli of upper and lower collar fabric.Here, smoothly dock parallel to lower bottom collar line drawing fold line for lapel and with turning over over-lapping stitch, clothes can be made
Lapel head in finished product, which is convinced close to front cut pieces with turning over split head, to be opened.
Preferably, in step f, the company's collar vermicelli for cutting and having upper and lower collar fabric are replicated, this garment piece is leading in succession
The seamless even collar style of split head, can bring the poised comfortableness of a species to dressing person.
It is formerly to complete to save comprising neck chest to carry out on the front and rear garment piece pattern of design that the dress designing of the present invention, which is cut, and
Garment collar chest saves design method of cutting out:
One, according to anthropometric data and clothes fashion determine bust, collar, breastheight clothing specification original number, if bust be B,
Collar is N.
After two, routinely finish front and rear garment piece figure, a piece of paper piece is placed on below front cut pieces figure, the following of the scraps of paper is put
In the lower section of BL BUST LINE, according to breastheight measured value routinely determine front cut pieces breastheight point (scraps of paper should be less than breastheight point below,
Ensure breastheight point on the scraps of paper), the province position that neck chest saves is determined at collar line midpoint, line, distance are saved by province position alignment breastheight strokes and dots
The centimeters of breastheight point 3 to 4 determine province's point, and distance saves sharp 10 centimeters, perpendicular to province's line drawing dart line, dart line on line is saved
BNV=(B-N)*0.03.Here breastheight refers to chest most protruding point to the distance of collar line and shoulder line intersection point.
Three, by the way of hole is pricked downwards, will be led on front cut pieces figure in province's point on front cut pieces figure, province's line, province position, original
Contour, former shoulder line, AH, AH points outside and AH points outsides to the straight line for saving point are replicated on the scraps of paper in original, then take out the scraps of paper, according to
The scraps of paper are cut into out province's model according to the figure that copy-point line is enclosed.Here collar line in original, former shoulder line, AH in original,
AH points outsides refer to the tailoring line being routinely drawn in step 2 on front and rear garment piece, and AH here refers to armhole, its China and foreign countries
Side point above section is upper armhole, and points outside is using lower part as lower armhole.Here bundle hole is using sharp works such as awl, pins
Tool, prick hole downwards on front cut pieces, the figure on garment piece is shown in by pricking hole on the scraps of paper, the position for pricking hole is wired including institute
Bar end points and flex point, for straight line, hole can be pricked in two-end-point;For curve, can along curve bundle hole spaced apart, with
Pattern on front cut pieces can be copied on the scraps of paper and is defined;Then can be according to the aperture left on the scraps of paper(That is copy-point)Line
The scraps of paper are cut into out province's model by the figure enclosed(For curve, then handled by copy-point is in smoothing junction).So operate, can
Province's model is accurately opened with quick obtain.
Four, Jiang Kai save model and overlayed above front cut pieces figure, and province's cusp that Jiang Kai is saved on model is overlapped in front cut pieces figure
On save Jian Chu, Jiang Kai save and save dart line left end of the line on the front cut pieces figure on model, according to opening province's model in front cut pieces
Picture opens province's line, upper collar line, shoulder line and upper AH on figure.This step is really that province's cusp that Jiang Kai is saved on model is overlapped in front cut pieces
Province's model is rotated counterclockwise out after at province's point on figure, province's line on province's model is turned to a left side for dart line on front cut pieces figure
End points.
Five, measurements lower AH error in length amounts caused by upper AH is moved, and integrally moved down according to the margin of error and form front lower AH
And lower AH and setting-out afterwards, its amount of the moving down=margin of error/2, the front lower AH and preceding upper AH after moving down during setting-out are in smoothing junction, move down
Rear lower AH afterwards and upper AH afterwards are in smoothing junction.Because upper AH movement causes lower AH contraction in length(There is part weight
It is folded), therefore made up by way of lower AH is integrally moved down by front lower AH and afterwards, here by forward and backward lower AH it is common under transfer from one place to another under escort
The certainly margin of error, it is ensured that the forward and backward AH lower ends after translation are concordant, required for this is sewing tech.
The design method of cutting out that above-mentioned garment collar chest saves has had been patented separately, and only makees procedure declaration in the present invention.
The present invention makes full use of the tape edge of bottom collar and upper collar under the spatial design about key element caused by picture neck chest province, solution
The even material of inner collar up and down of collar clothes fashion of having determined can not disposably draw the knotty problem of sanction in flakes with front cut pieces, and it is each to lead chest to save
Key element is based on caused by clothes original number, so the present invention need not be through with estimation is tested, not cut out prototype board contrast separately.The present invention
Do not include the cutting at other other positions of clothes, be not related to, do not describe the content at other positions of clothes.Title of the present invention and code name
The convenient difference with other method of cutting out is intended merely to, in the absence of other special implications.
Deposited the invention has the advantages that it efficiently solves prior art in even collar clothes fashion tailoring process
Neck piece lining can not with front cut pieces disposably in flakes draw cut out the problem of.Realize that a kind of cutting is quick, clothes city can be met
The good clothes of precision rate request and comfortableness of the field to dress ornament conversion connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is a kind of design diagram that the present invention connects collar cutting-out method(Wherein left side is rear garment piece, and right side is preceding clothing
Piece);
Fig. 2 is that even collar cutting-out method puts seam cutting schematic diagram to the present invention;
Fig. 3 is the structural representation that the present invention connects collar vermicelli;
Fig. 4 is a kind of front cut pieces schematic diagram that present invention neck chest saves cutting-out method;
Fig. 5 is that one kind of the present invention neck chest province forward and backward garment piece of cutting-out method opens province's schematic diagram(Wherein left side is rear garment piece, and right side is
Front cut pieces);
Fig. 6 is that the clothes of the present invention connect the design sketch of collar.
In figure:1. clothing center line, 2. first button points, a 3. folded line, 4. former shoulder lines, 5. control over-lapping stitch, 6. turn over over-lapping stitch, are led after 7.
Contour, 8. control baselines, 9. province positions, 10. neck baselines, 11. times necks warp line, wide point in 12. times necks, the wide line in neck on 13., and 14.
Lower bottom collar line, collar line on 15., 16. times collar lines, 17. neckline baselines lead stopper line on 18., 19 split head stopper lines, and 20.
Fold line for lapel, 21. profile tape edge lines, about 22. inner collar material, 23. front cut pieces, 24. seam borderline nodes, 25. vermicelli tape edge lines, 26.
Vermicelli wheel hub line, 27. connect collar vermicelli, and 31. is following, 32. breastheight points, 33. province's lines, 34. provinces point, 35. former upper collar lines,
36. the upper AH of original, 37.AH points outsides, 38. open province's line, 39. shoulder lines, lower AH, B/4. busts after AH, 41. front lower AH, 42. on 40.
Line, the leading lines of NG., BNV. dart lines.
Embodiment
Below by embodiment, and with reference to accompanying drawing, technical scheme is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, a kind of clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method, comprise the following steps:
A. according to the clothing specification original number such as wide, folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in the upper neck of clothes fashion determination.
B. front and rear garment piece figure of the design cutting-out method completion including leading chest to save, the root in front cut pieces figure are saved by garment collar chest
The height needed according to clothes fashion routinely determines the first button point 2 along clothing center line 1, is put down according to folded gate-width specification outside clothing center line
Door line 3 is folded in row line drawing in clothing.
C. the former flat picture control over-lapping stitch 5 of the right-hand member of shoulder line 4 is based on, is controlled wide * 0.8 in over-lapping stitch length=lower neck, it is contour with the first button point
Degree, drawn by folded door line to control over-lapping stitch right-hand member and turn over over-lapping stitch 6, then over-lapping stitch will be turned over and extended upwards, it extends segment length=rear collar line 7
Length, by extension upper end flat picture control baseline 8 to the left, wide, 9 pairs of the province position saved by neck chest in wide+lower neck in control base length=upper neck
Quasi- control baseline left end, neck baseline 10 is drawn more than former shoulder line, lead baseline length=rear collar line.
D. the lower neck for drawing 1 centimeter length to the right perpendicular to neck baseline upper end warps line 11, wide with upper neck in following neck respectively
Middle wide specification value is extension amount, the line right-hand member that warped based on lower neck is extended wide point 12 in the lower neck of determination, then extends and draw width in neck
Line 13, line right-hand member is warped to leading baseline lower end to descend bottom collar line to position of provinceing picture again by lower neck, the lower bottom collar line 14 below former shoulder line
Flexibility is consistent with upper collar line 15.
E. by holding the leading line NG of picture under lower collar line 16 level with both hands, leading line length routinely determines according to style, perpendicular to upper
The wide line right-hand member is to leading line drawing neckline baseline 17 in neck, by drawing neck stopper line 18 to leading line right-hand member in the middle part of neckline baseline, with
First button point draws split head stopper line 19 for height, by folded door line to leading line right-hand member.
F. it is based on wide point in lower neck, smoothly docks parallel to lower bottom collar line drawing fold line for lapel 20 and with turning over over-lapping stitch(See Fig. 2), according to
(increase according to the width of sewing tech needs, parallel to front cut pieces wheel hub outline tape edge line 21 by sewing tech requirement corresponding
Tape edge width), along the related front cut pieces 23 for having upper and lower inner collar material 22 of tape edge line clipping, then by the seam of lower bottom collar and upper collar
Borderline node 24 draws vermicelli tape edge line 25 downward vertically, along vermicelli tape edge line and profile tape edge line clipping, then mends picture vermicelli wheel
Hub line 26, that is, obtain the related company's collar vermicelli 27 for having upper and lower collar fabric(See Fig. 3).
In above-mentioned steps f, the company's collar vermicelli for cutting and having upper and lower collar fabric are replicated, this garment piece is leading to be inconjunction with split head
It is seamless even collar style, the poised comfortableness of a species can be brought to dressing person(See Fig. 6).
In above-mentioned steps b, described garment collar chest saves design cutting-out method and is:
One, according to anthropometric data and clothes fashion determine bust, collar, breastheight clothing specification original number, if bust be B,
Collar is N;
After two, routinely finish front and rear garment piece figure, a piece of paper piece is placed on below front cut pieces figure(See Fig. 4, dashed-line outer box is
Scraps of paper profile), following the 31 of the scraps of paper are placed in BL BUST LINE B/4 lower section, and front cut pieces breastheight is routinely determined according to breastheight measured value
Point 32, the province position 9 that neck chest saves is determined at collar line midpoint, by position of provinceing alignment breastheight strokes and dots province line 33, apart from 3 to 4 lis of breastheight point
Rice place determines to save point 34, on line is saved distance save sharp 10 centimeters, perpendicular to province line drawing dart line BNV, dart line BNV=(B-
N)*0.03.
Three, by the way of hole is pricked downwards, will be led on front cut pieces figure in province's point on front cut pieces figure, province's line, province position, original
Contour 35, former shoulder line 4, AH36, AH points outside 37 and AH points outsides to the straight line for saving point are replicated on the scraps of paper in original, are then taken out
The scraps of paper are cut into out province's model by the figure that the scraps of paper, foundation copy-point line are enclosed.
Four, Jiang Kai save model and overlayed above front cut pieces figure, and province's cusp that Jiang Kai is saved on model is overlapped in front cut pieces figure
On save Jian Chu, Jiang Kai save and save dart line left end of the line on the front cut pieces figure on model, according to opening province's model in front cut pieces
Picture opens province's line 38, upper collar line 15, shoulder line 39 and upper AH40 on figure(See Fig. 5).
Five, measurements lower AH error in length amounts caused by upper AH is moved, and integrally move down according to the margin of error form it is front lower
AH41 and afterwards lower AH42 and setting-out, its amount of the moving down=margin of error/2, the front lower AH and preceding upper AH after moving down during setting-out smoothly connect
Connect, the rear lower AH after moving down and upper AH afterwards are in smoothing junction.
Technical scheme makes full use of bottom collar and upper neck under the spatial design about key element caused by picture neck chest province
The tape edge enclosed, the material of inner collar up and down of the company's of solving collar clothes fashion can not the disposable difficulty for drawing sanction in flakes synchronous with front cut pieces
Problem.The present invention can directly cut single-piece clothes customized with cloth, making sheet design of material can also be used to cut template, used
In the clothes for cutting industrialized mass production, realize it is a kind of cut it is quick, the essence that garment market converts to dress ornament can be met
Degree rate request and the good clothes of comfortable features of clothing connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
A. according to the clothing specification original number such as wide, folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in the upper neck of clothes fashion determination;
B. front and rear garment piece figure of the design cutting-out method completion including leading chest to save is saved by garment collar chest, according to clothes in front cut pieces figure
The height of style needs is filled routinely along clothing center line(1)Determine the first button point(2), put down according to folded gate-width specification outside clothing center line
Door line is folded in row line drawing in clothing(3);
C. it is based on former shoulder line(4)The flat picture control over-lapping stitch of right-hand member(5), control wide * 0.8 in over-lapping stitch length=lower neck, it is contour with the first button point
Degree, drawn by folded door line to control over-lapping stitch right-hand member and turn over over-lapping stitch(6), then over-lapping stitch will be turned over and extended upwards, it extends segment length=rear collar line
(7)Length, by extension upper end flat picture control baseline to the left(8), control base length=go up width in width in neck+lower neck, saved by neck chest
Province position(9)Alignment control baseline left end, neck baseline is drawn more than former shoulder line(10), lead baseline length=rear collar line;
D. the lower neck for drawing 1 centimeter length to the right perpendicular to neck baseline upper end warps line(11), respectively in following neck in wide and upper neck
Wide specification value is extension amount, the line right-hand member that warped based on lower neck extends wide point in the lower neck of determination(12), then extend and draw width in neck
Line(13), line right-hand member is warped to leading baseline lower end to descend bottom collar line to position of provinceing picture again by lower neck, the lower bottom collar line below former shoulder line
(14)Flexibility and upper collar line(15)Unanimously;
E. by lower collar line(16)Under hold the leading line of picture level with both hands(NG), leading line length routinely determines according to style, perpendicular to upper
The wide line right-hand member is to leading line drawing neckline baseline in neck(17), by drawing neck stopper line to leading line right-hand member in the middle part of neckline baseline
(18), split head stopper line is drawn using the first button point as height, by folded door line to leading line right-hand member(19);
F. it is based on wide point in lower neck, parallel to lower bottom collar line drawing fold line for lapel(20)And smoothly docked with turning over over-lapping stitch, according to sewing work
Skill need width, parallel to front cut pieces wheel hub outline tape edge line(21), have upper and lower inner collar material along tape edge line clipping is related
(22)Front cut pieces(23), then by the seam borderline node of lower bottom collar and upper collar(24)Vermicelli tape edge line is drawn downward vertically
(25), along vermicelli tape edge line and profile tape edge line clipping, then mend picture vermicelli wheel hub line(26), that is, obtaining related has upper and lower top collar
Company's collar vermicelli of material(27).
2. clothes according to claim 1 connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method, it is characterised in that in step f, replicate
Cutting has company's collar vermicelli of upper and lower collar fabric, the leading seamless even collar style for being inconjunction with split head of this garment piece, can give dressing
Person brings the poised comfortableness of a species.
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CN109497644A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar |
CN111772282A (en) * | 2020-06-17 | 2020-10-16 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for separate design of clothing sharp lapel |
CN112137212A (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2020-12-29 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
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CN105433488A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-03-30 | 胡亨有 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
CN106256276A (en) * | 2016-08-29 | 2016-12-28 | 胡亨有 | The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by clothing |
CN107373841A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-11-24 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV originals number design cutting-out method |
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CN105433488A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-03-30 | 胡亨有 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
CN106256276A (en) * | 2016-08-29 | 2016-12-28 | 胡亨有 | The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by clothing |
CN107373841A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-11-24 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV originals number design cutting-out method |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN109497644A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-03-22 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of woman suit collar |
CN111772282A (en) * | 2020-06-17 | 2020-10-16 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for separate design of clothing sharp lapel |
CN112137212A (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2020-12-29 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
CN112137212B (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2022-09-23 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
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